That looks great, and thanks for a concise well produced video! Side note: The hose reel will likely need replacement every year. Unless the customer goes to the effort to use compressed air to get all of the water out before winter, that things will freeze and crack once the temps get cold.
Very good idea to leave a loop inside, especially if access to this pipe becomes impossible after finishing the basement. This configuration should be part of the construction code.
I just managed to install two of these for the first time the other day. You noted at 3:20 that the bib should slope down, at 2:48 I saw the C-shaped plastic shim. That shim is designed to provide the necessary slope as it is wedge-shaped and should have been installed between the bib and the wall.
I had a leak inside my wall when I turned the spigot on couldn't figure out why. This video was super helpful. Wish they would've added a service loop!!!
Well, now I can tell my landlord why we need a plumber to fix our wall hydrant 😅 so this video helped a ton, and possibly saved my arse from "accidental property damage " 😂❤
Great vid Pat. You are the man! :-) We'd love to send you some Hose Bib Buddy plates if you'd like to demo - since the loose or difficult to secure hydrant is such a frequent problem. I'd like to point out a few things. 1. That our plate is soft aluminum and acts as a sacrificial anode for the little system - to protect the piping, valve, and connections from galvanic corrosion. 2. If replacing, often you have to make the hole bigger to get the old out and the new in. Our plate is super handy to bridge the gap and secure. The hole and the exterior can be sealed with clear silicon rather than cement or mortar. It looks much better and takes less time. (For plumbers this saves time, and possibly a return trip.) 3. The HOSE BIB BUDDY is now in Lowe's Stores too. :-) Thanks again! - Paul from BluMare Research
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 SharkBite Wall Hydrant: geni.us/5RYRRg PEX Wall Hydrant: geni.us/bJ73ZdO MIP Wall Hydrant: geni.us/79R2 1/2" SharkBite x 1/2" FIP: geni.us/bzWtO Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Thanks for posting, I have no access to the interior connection without cutting the wall so hoping they included that service extension so I can do the job from exterior only!
I hope so too! If you have to cut the wall to replace, most hardware stores sell a handy spring-fit access panel. Such as: www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Click-Fit-8-in-x-8-in-Plastic-Access-Panel-AP-0808/203763985 Good luck on your repair!
I've noticed that the vacuum breaker also serves another purpose. Rather than unhooking my hose when freezing weather comes, I can leave the end of the hose open and the vacuum breaker allows the water to flow out of the hose and protect from having the water stay in the frost free hydrant. Do you see it this way?
Started watching a lot of your vids super helpful! Is there away to install a shorter frost proof wall hydrant? I am about to install a shut off valve but would like a back up. (I live up North.)
Thank you Balkeor, They sell frost proof hydrants in different lengths if needed. I've seen 4", 8", 10", 12"(most common), and 18". The important factor is that the end/shutoff of the wall hydrant is within the warm side of the home. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Thank you Dave. It was an exterior sealant matched to the color of the house (Dynaflex 230). It just helps with any water that might get behind the hose reel and run down the threads of the screw.
My backyard anti-siphon freeze proof spigot, kitchen sink cold water and dishwasher cold water have the same cold water line / pipe. Recently, the spigot does not deliver water at the same pressure or amount of water as before. I replaced the stem but the problem is still exists. I used a steel wire from a hanger to check the inside of the sillcock and there is a valve at the end of the sillcock which opens when the water is shut off but when the water is turned on again, it closes and blocks water coming out even though the stem is removed from the sillcock. Have you seen any installation configuration like this? Your reply is greatly appreciated.
How do you secure the bib to masonry when the screw slots don't line up with a competent foundation; i.e. a portion that was previously drilled out? Do you recommend mounting plates for this situation?
I would probably use concrete anchors if possible. In some scenarios where I didn't have enough backing to hold the hose bib in place, I added a sanded, pressure treated wood block with PL premium to the wall and then secured to that. To be honest I've never used a mounting plate but if that is going to work, you could go with that method too.
Anyone know if male threads are tapered on the hose bibs? No matter how much teflon I'm using I cannot get it to seal up without a small leak. The threads aren't stripped. In a terrible spot in a crawlspace of course.
Unfortunately there's no rule of thumb, as some threads will thread more than others. It is more down to feel on how tight it is (I know this is a poor answer, hah). It's usually around a turn or 2 past hand tight.
@@PROSDIY That I actually quite helpful. In doing some other research it seems there is a hard min of 3.5 total rotations and a hard max of 6. As long as the 2 past hand tight puts me somewhere in there I will go with it.
True. They both have they're pros and cons. The main concern about the old school ones is it's very common to forget about shutting the water off prior to winter.
The video covers the main aspects of installation. It is a good idea to provide a service loop between the floor joists. Well done.
That looks great, and thanks for a concise well produced video!
Side note: The hose reel will likely need replacement every year. Unless the customer goes to the effort to use compressed air to get all of the water out before winter, that things will freeze and crack once the temps get cold.
Very good idea to leave a loop inside, especially if access to this pipe becomes impossible after finishing the basement.
This configuration should be part of the construction code.
one of the best vids ive seen from a trades man to a trades man
Thank you Makaveli Thadon! I appreciate it. Take care!
Great video, kudos for doing such a good job. I LOVED to loop idea and I have been doing plumbing for 46 years and now will be using your loop.
Very impressive video. No irritable moments. Clear and concise. No unnecessary prattle. Thanks! :-) (subscribed)
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for warning us about the extra piping. I didn’t think about that.
I just managed to install two of these for the first time the other day. You noted at 3:20 that the bib should slope down, at 2:48 I saw the C-shaped plastic shim. That shim is designed to provide the necessary slope as it is wedge-shaped and should have been installed between the bib and the wall.
Super helpful video! Thank you.
I especially appreciate the explanation about the service loop.
Omg. I've watched so many on this topic. But this was the real deal. You rocked it.
watering in the snow, and then the dog wearing the cone of shame just topped it all off. great video!
I was trying to figure out why you are watering your lawn and then quickly realized you were testing out your hard work. Beautiful work and great vid.
Thanks Ken! Ya, I was just messing around at the end. Take care!
Excellent video, great editing! Thanks for sharing the tips!!!
Love the hand shaking at the hole
Best video on hose bibs! I just saw four others
I had a leak inside my wall when I turned the spigot on couldn't figure out why. This video was super helpful. Wish they would've added a service loop!!!
Well, now I can tell my landlord why we need a plumber to fix our wall hydrant 😅 so this video helped a ton, and possibly saved my arse from "accidental property damage " 😂❤
Great vid Pat. You are the man! :-) We'd love to send you some Hose Bib Buddy plates if you'd like to demo - since the loose or difficult to secure hydrant is such a frequent problem. I'd like to point out a few things. 1. That our plate is soft aluminum and acts as a sacrificial anode for the little system - to protect the piping, valve, and connections from galvanic corrosion. 2. If replacing, often you have to make the hole bigger to get the old out and the new in. Our plate is super handy to bridge the gap and secure. The hole and the exterior can be sealed with clear silicon rather than cement or mortar. It looks much better and takes less time. (For plumbers this saves time, and possibly a return trip.) 3. The HOSE BIB BUDDY is now in Lowe's Stores too. :-) Thanks again! - Paul from BluMare Research
Thanks for the detailed video! Please say “hello” to your dog for me too.
you have the best plumbing vids thank you
I hate stucco finish. good vid
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
SharkBite Wall Hydrant: geni.us/5RYRRg
PEX Wall Hydrant: geni.us/bJ73ZdO
MIP Wall Hydrant: geni.us/79R2
1/2" SharkBite x 1/2" FIP: geni.us/bzWtO
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Good video, concise and to the point. Thank you.
I literally have to do this job. Mine bust over the winter
Good luck on your repair!
Very helpful,thanks Patrick!!
Great information..especially this time of the year.
Thank you Bobby Whataman Jackson!
Thanks for posting, I have no access to the interior connection without cutting the wall so hoping they included that service extension so I can do the job from exterior only!
I hope so too! If you have to cut the wall to replace, most hardware stores sell a handy spring-fit access panel. Such as: www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Click-Fit-8-in-x-8-in-Plastic-Access-Panel-AP-0808/203763985 Good luck on your repair!
Great video with good information. Thank you!
The hose reel water joint connector will split unless you unravel the hose completely and drain all the water out of it
Great Video - THANKS!!
Excellent video, thank you!
Greta video, thank you!
Great stuff. Thanks
I've noticed that the vacuum breaker also serves another purpose. Rather than unhooking my hose when freezing weather comes, I can leave the end of the hose open and the vacuum breaker allows the water to flow out of the hose and protect from having the water stay in the frost free hydrant. Do you see it this way?
Thanks for the video
Nice work
Thanks Dude, the video helped me out.
Thanks Paul! Cheers!
Great job
I miss the safety glasses. Great vid though!
I have multiple exterior frost frees on the house. Should they all be fed from the mechanical room area?
Started watching a lot of your vids super helpful! Is there away to install a shorter frost proof wall hydrant? I am about to install a shut off valve but would like a back up. (I live up North.)
Thank you Balkeor, They sell frost proof hydrants in different lengths if needed. I've seen 4", 8", 10", 12"(most common), and 18". The important factor is that the end/shutoff of the wall hydrant is within the warm side of the home. Hope this helps. Cheers!
great video.. what was that silicone you used that you could put a screw through for the hose reel?
Thank you Dave. It was an exterior sealant matched to the color of the house (Dynaflex 230). It just helps with any water that might get behind the hose reel and run down the threads of the screw.
Total Pro!
Nice bedeo
My backyard anti-siphon freeze proof spigot, kitchen sink cold water and dishwasher cold water have the same cold water line / pipe. Recently, the spigot does not deliver water at the same pressure or amount of water as before. I replaced the stem but the problem is still exists. I used a steel wire from a hanger to check the inside of the sillcock and there is a valve at the end of the sillcock which opens when the water is shut off but when the water is turned on again, it closes and blocks water coming out even though the stem is removed from the sillcock. Have you seen any installation configuration like this? Your reply is greatly appreciated.
Very helpful very interesting good job thank you Bill Brown Doylestown PA AKA dollar bill
Liked this
How do you secure the bib to masonry when the screw slots don't line up with a competent foundation; i.e. a portion that was previously drilled out? Do you recommend mounting plates for this situation?
I would probably use concrete anchors if possible. In some scenarios where I didn't have enough backing to hold the hose bib in place, I added a sanded, pressure treated wood block with PL premium to the wall and then secured to that. To be honest I've never used a mounting plate but if that is going to work, you could go with that method too.
Of course, I don't have a separate shut off for each valve.
Anyone know if male threads are tapered on the hose bibs? No matter how much teflon I'm using I cannot get it to seal up without a small leak. The threads aren't stripped. In a terrible spot in a crawlspace of course.
Are you screwing straight into the silicone? I've never seen that before.
That's how they do it when making penetration in the roof for solar racking
Why did you remove the service loop at 5:09
Did you use pex-al-pex or just regular pex.
Just standard potable water PEX
where in canada are u
Hi Dave, I live in High River, Alberta.
@@PROSDIY nice. i figured canada, as i saw many DAHL valves in your vids. DAHL is the best, hands down, and is made in canada. woohoo. lates
Hey ... just wondering... how far in do you thread the adapter? I am installing a threaded shower valve. Is there a rule of thumb for noobs?
Unfortunately there's no rule of thumb, as some threads will thread more than others. It is more down to feel on how tight it is (I know this is a poor answer, hah). It's usually around a turn or 2 past hand tight.
@@PROSDIY That I actually quite helpful. In doing some other research it seems there is a hard min of 3.5 total rotations and a hard max of 6. As long as the 2 past hand tight puts me somewhere in there I will go with it.
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Where did you get that hose reel?
Home Depot. It's a Suncast model # WTS175
wow..
I’m not a fan of frost free hose bibs. They have a lot of parts. I like the old school ones better. They are easy to repair.
True. They both have they're pros and cons. The main concern about the old school ones is it's very common to forget about shutting the water off prior to winter.
GG
I comment
Thank you 😄
Poor shamed pooch.
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