congratulations for the engineering skills! it is by far the best design I've ever seen. Can you make a video showing your motors configurations? I mean, by watching this video and some of the other videos I seem to see that you have two motors for X and two motors for Y, right? and is this a COREXY printer? can you clarify this in a video, just a very simple video showing the printer, pointing your finger to where the motors are and how they are connected to each other, and also tell why you chose this configuration. Also seems you have a single motor for Z right? also if you can show how did you connect the printer head (extruder + hotend) to the gantry, it would be nice.. I also like to watch problem solving videos so It can help me with my problem solving skills.
Simon, hi, I'm very much looking forward to my 330 kit for assembly. Is there somewhere a full instructions exactly how to set up a water cooled printer after assembly? Thanks for a great printer!
Waste of time and money changing how an Ender 3 is driven or changing it in any major way if you have outgrown it. It will still be an Ender 3. Put the money towards a better printer.
@Vez3D What rails are you running on the Y Gantry? It looks like MGN 9C is that correct? I planed on using these for my VZ235 but i gave it up because of worries about the input shaper results
Very nice!! I did this method very similar with the VzBot 330, but did it from the back motors. Don't forget the loctite afterwards right?? :) Also, you no longer need to run the motor enable command? Just moving the motors a bit is fine? (Old way- I remember running SET_STEPPER_ENABLE STEPPER=stepper_x ENABLE=1 for each motor in a macro)
Ive just ordered the latest Mellow kit AWD 330. It seems that, there are all or most parts already CNC machined. Is there any advice on the additional mods for top performance (speed and quality wise)?
@@Vez3D thanks. I saw there are water connections on extruder but also on goliath. I will need to research it more. its been only 1 month since I puchased and built the Prusa MK4. I quickly realized the bed swinging design has physically unmanageable limitations. returned it and bought a Bambulab X1C. I love it, and I think it is a very good overall machine for vast uses. however now I would like to add a bigger size and push the speed limits:)
Do you do this before or after the belts get tensioned? Can you tension the belts after this without repeating this process or should you repeat this process after re-tensioning?
I have a new method that's even simpler, and works with AWD setups where the tensioning is imbalanced so you have to sync with the belts already tensioned. All it requires is loosening the set screw on one motor, running a Klipper macro, then retightening.
May I ask why synchronization is needed? Even if the shaft has a cutout, the stepper has 200 steps per rotation and is basically free to spin when powered down, wouldn’t it find its own place that way? Or are we syncing within 1/200th of a rotation? Does it matter that much?
@@jerrymk6846 If you have AWD on independent drivers with shared endstop, sync is needed for mechanical reasons. Unsynced, when they power on and jump to a full step, one side of belt will be tensioned more than the other. Worst case it's halfway and randomly falls one way or the other, messing up calibration. Either way, you'll have torque ripple artifacts and reduced power. Yes 1/200 of a rotation is extremely significant. Even 1/2000 is. If you have AWD with shared driver, it's even worse. Sync is needes for electrical reasons because they're electrically coupled. Desynced motors will try to drive each other the wrong way.
@Vez3D I watched vector3d, but I didn't see all the points there for myself. When a wizard shows how it should actually be - it's always very cool and doesn't raise additional questions. Thanks, I'll watch other reviewers again.
I've built mine with pulleys that use a single M2 with a drop of loctite to clamp around the motor shaft. Seller claimed it's more concentric. So far it's running good with 10-20k accel. Input shaper looked good as well. But I don't know if they'll slip when the acceleration gets too agressive.
Wouldn't it be better to have a screw adjuster mechanism where the belts meet the printhead carriage? 2x M3x20 , nuts and 2x 3d printed clamps of added weight.
@@TheNamelessOne12357 Yeah, I think vez compared here on youtube, most of the improvement comes in better IS results, rather than the extra power from more motors.
I have built vzbot 330, but still using it with dual motor, I already have 2 extra motor but didn't put them on. I still don't understand the benefit of the having 4 motor, if anyone can explain to me in a understanding way. Thank you
diving by 2 the belt lenght .. so all the benefit of having shorter belts in a big prniter.. better resonance, better performance, more power, more speed, better printing etc.. :)
Very nice hobby you have, one can be completely mesmerized watching some of your videos. Regarding cooling your stepper motors I think you have gone the wrong way, water cooling can be a good way to cool. but I am convinced that you will find it difficult to remove the heat from the copper windings by mounting a water-cooled aluminum plate at the bottom of your stepper motor. What you should have done is drill holes in your stepper motor and place a fan at the bottom of your stepper. Please look at this video called "What's the best way to cool stepper motors?" " th-cam.com/video/eerxaoaRhQI/w-d-xo.html" Best regards
It's always fantastic to see your machine working!
That printer looks badass!
congratulations for the engineering skills! it is by far the best design I've ever seen. Can you make a video showing your motors configurations? I mean, by watching this video and some of the other videos I seem to see that you have two motors for X and two motors for Y, right? and is this a COREXY printer? can you clarify this in a video, just a very simple video showing the printer, pointing your finger to where the motors are and how they are connected to each other, and also tell why you chose this configuration. Also seems you have a single motor for Z right? also if you can show how did you connect the printer head (extruder + hotend) to the gantry, it would be nice.. I also like to watch problem solving videos so It can help me with my problem solving skills.
Simon, hi, I'm very much looking forward to my 330 kit for assembly. Is there somewhere a full instructions exactly how to set up a water cooled printer after assembly? Thanks for a great printer!
Gunna make an AWD ender 3
Or mk4
Waste of time and money changing how an Ender 3 is driven or changing it in any major way if you have outgrown it. It will still be an Ender 3. Put the money towards a better printer.
@AG-cg7lk it was a joke..
@Vez3D What rails are you running on the Y Gantry?
It looks like MGN 9C is that correct?
I planed on using these for my VZ235 but i gave it up because of worries about the input shaper results
Yeah mgn9c. I had mgn12h before. It didnt change a lot on IS... so i recommend staying with mgn12 on Y.
Very nice!! I did this method very similar with the VzBot 330, but did it from the back motors. Don't forget the loctite afterwards right?? :) Also, you no longer need to run the motor enable command? Just moving the motors a bit is fine? (Old way- I remember running SET_STEPPER_ENABLE STEPPER=stepper_x ENABLE=1 for each motor in a macro)
Ive just ordered the latest Mellow kit AWD 330. It seems that, there are all or most parts already CNC machined. Is there any advice on the additional mods for top performance (speed and quality wise)?
I like the watercooled hextduder that allows you to run short goliath
@@Vez3D thanks. I saw there are water connections on extruder but also on goliath. I will need to research it more. its been only 1 month since I puchased and built the Prusa MK4. I quickly realized the bed swinging design has physically unmanageable limitations. returned it and bought a Bambulab X1C. I love it, and I think it is a very good overall machine for vast uses. however now I would like to add a bigger size and push the speed limits:)
Where did you get your air hose to feed your heat break.
Ive been looking at different corrugated gises and many are too stiff.
Do you do this before or after the belts get tensioned? Can you tension the belts after this without repeating this process or should you repeat this process after re-tensioning?
This is done after belt tensioning
Can you make a video about belt frequency on vz235?
I have a new method that's even simpler, and works with AWD setups where the tensioning is imbalanced so you have to sync with the belts already tensioned. All it requires is loosening the set screw on one motor, running a Klipper macro, then retightening.
are you on the discord?
@@Zzafari7 Yes. Not a VzBot user but I love VzBot stuff anyway so I am.
@@daliasprints9798 can you share the macro please
May I ask why synchronization is needed? Even if the shaft has a cutout, the stepper has 200 steps per rotation and is basically free to spin when powered down, wouldn’t it find its own place that way?
Or are we syncing within 1/200th of a rotation? Does it matter that much?
@@jerrymk6846 If you have AWD on independent drivers with shared endstop, sync is needed for mechanical reasons. Unsynced, when they power on and jump to a full step, one side of belt will be tensioned more than the other. Worst case it's halfway and randomly falls one way or the other, messing up calibration. Either way, you'll have torque ripple artifacts and reduced power. Yes 1/200 of a rotation is extremely significant. Even 1/2000 is.
If you have AWD with shared driver, it's even worse. Sync is needes for electrical reasons because they're electrically coupled. Desynced motors will try to drive each other the wrong way.
super helpful
Hi, is there even a complete video of the software setup of the printer after assembling all the parts?
Not from me but couple youtuber did it. Nero3d, modbot, vector3d
@Vez3D I watched vector3d, but I didn't see all the points there for myself. When a wizard shows how it should actually be - it's always very cool and doesn't raise additional questions. Thanks, I'll watch other reviewers again.
I've built mine with pulleys that use a single M2 with a drop of loctite to clamp around the motor shaft. Seller claimed it's more concentric. So far it's running good with 10-20k accel. Input shaper looked good as well. But I don't know if they'll slip when the acceleration gets too agressive.
Wouldn't it be better to have a screw adjuster mechanism where the belts meet the printhead carriage? 2x M3x20 , nuts and 2x 3d printed clamps of added weight.
Does four motors improve anything? Why they might be better than wider belt and two larger motors?
Shorter belt paths
The belt paths are shorter and the inertia is lower relative to the power.
@@theofficialczex1708 Were there any comparisons with just two motors or with wider belt?
@@TheNamelessOne12357 Yeah, I think vez compared here on youtube, most of the improvement comes in better IS results, rather than the extra power from more motors.
I have built vzbot 330, but still using it with dual motor, I already have 2 extra motor but didn't put them on. I still don't understand the benefit of the having 4 motor, if anyone can explain to me in a understanding way. Thank you
diving by 2 the belt lenght .. so all the benefit of having shorter belts in a big prniter.. better resonance, better performance, more power, more speed, better printing etc.. :)
🔝🔝🔝🔝
Very nice hobby you have, one can be completely mesmerized watching some of your videos.
Regarding cooling your stepper motors I think you have gone the wrong way, water cooling can be a good way to cool. but I am convinced that you will find it difficult to remove the heat from the copper windings by mounting a water-cooled aluminum plate at the bottom of your stepper motor.
What you should have done is drill holes in your stepper motor and place a fan at the bottom of your stepper.
Please look at this video called "What's the best way to cool stepper motors?"
" th-cam.com/video/eerxaoaRhQI/w-d-xo.html"
Best regards