Resin 3D Printing Safety - Important for Beginners!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- How to safely remove prints from a SLA, DLP or similar UV Resin 3D Printer!
Machines like the Anycubic PHOTON can create incredible detailed prints, however they carry risks not seen in FDM machines. Be sure to always take care and don't touch the resin!!!
99% Isopropyl Alcohol and other 3D Printing Essentials available here - www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse
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50 3D Printing Tips and Tricks - gumroad.com/l/QWAh - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
We put our resin contaminated IPA out in the sun in a sealed container (not a bottle with a thin neck) for a few days and the resin in solution cures into a solid mass which then can be disposed of. We then filter the IPA using paint filters. The IPA can then be reused.
Good tip!
Exactly - easy to dispose of resin as long as you cure it. Certainly saves a trip to a hazardous materials disposal site!
That is a really good idea
@@FooBar89 just put in under the sun?
Yes. Depending on the UV index where you are it might take a longer time, but you'll know it happened when the resin hardens to the same degree as on your actual resin parts.
I’m from the printing industry and used IPA mixed in water as part if the printing process on paper and plastics, i also printed sealing varnishes and resin coatings on plastics with High output UV lights to cure them. This caused huge exposure to my skin in containers( no gloves too busy) of ipa and disolving resins off printing surfaces with rags dipped in ether and solvents (liquid paint strippers) This stuff is Mega toxic in the long term if you do not take care of yourself, please consider using extraction of air or at least a fan to disperse the vapors. I was diagnosed with Non Hodgkins Lymphoma stage 3 after huge exposure over 6-8 years and am now in remmision 👍 But i do not work in that industry at all anymore. So what I’m saying is this shit will hurt you if you don’t do the minimum in safety
thank you for sharing, also hope you are well now🙏
This should be pinned. It's that important.
I hope your health continues to be better.
Thanks for sharing!
wow holy shit - thanks for posting this. Hope you are doing better.
I wear gloves and a respirator when I handle resin. I hope you're doing well.
bookmarks for me
1:16 File prep
1:45 Hollow out your models
1:58 Orientate the model @ an angle
2:20 resin Baaaaaaadddddd
3:05 Wear Gloves (type???)
3:38 Isopropyl Alcohol ot Methylated Spirits
4:15 Cheap turkey Roast Tray / Safety Glasses
4:50 removal
5:45 Spatula Metal ?
6:00 Finishing Station Solvent proff containers
7:10 Dispose of it carefully
7:55 Cure the Resin UV nail light ?
8:40 Try not to touch ANYTHING
One thing you missed with the gloves is they must be Nitrile glove not latex. The UV developers will penetrate nitrile gloves slowly so change gloves if wearing for more than 10-15 minutes at a time or double glove. Latex gloves will not stop the developers reaching your skin.
Neat, I didn't know that. Nitrile is what I try to go for generally because not a fan of Latex anyway.
Not to mention that there are some that will have an even more of a reaction to the latex than they would the resin... generally, if you have any known allergies, take extra precautions.
I know this is an older, but I thought I should leave this here. When you are removing your gloves after use, start by pinching the glove at the heel of the hand. Don't get closer than 2cm from the cuff. Once you have a decent grip peel it toward your fingertips, while turning the glove inside out. Grip the now empty glove in a loose fist, and hook the cuff with the free hand, and peel it toward the fingers again. If done correctly not only will you stay clean, you will have bagged or double bagged them. (triple or quad if you double gloved but alternate hands if you do this)
What if you're very allergic to latex rubber?
@@nukem1839 that's why you should nitrile
Stresses danger of uncured resin and need for PPE... proceeds to do the whole thing barefoot 🙃
He's brought shame on his chemistry teacher T.T
thongs are a must in my books.
@@TheDrays83 lol
I respect the warnings and his general experience as a 3D Printing/designer but I also couldn't help but notice the shorts, bare feet and lots of skin showing.
@@TheDrays83 I wonder about that, can you just use pincers or pliers to manipulate?
Great timing, Angus. A lot of the folks in the tabletop gaming community are getting Photons and it's quickly becoming one of the favorites within our small niche. The way you show the process is phenonemal and I'm gonna be sharing this video all the time.
Thanks again!
Cool! These machines are ideal for tabletop gaming figures and terrain.
Maker's Muse Definitely. There's always a raging debate about whether optimized FDM prints can compete with resin, but the day is coming when more of us can have both an FDM printer and a resin printer so we don't have to worry about it. I'm excited. Thanks again for your contributions to our hobby :)
How much resin does printing a typical PC miniature consume? I'm considering getting into resin printing for the same reason, but the resin is still quite expensive.
oasntet I actually just made a video on that :)
th-cam.com/video/v04wjiUT5Qg/w-d-xo.html
tl;dr: After talking with a lot of people using the D7 and the Photon, of all skill levels, actual yield varies in how many minis you can squeeze out of 1L of resin. Assuming resin costs between $60-90 per liter - probably between $0.20 - 2.00 depending on how tight your post-print process is.
I go in depth with both FDM and Resin in the video. Hope that helps!
Good video, although I feel like you should have touched on the fact that the printer and any liquid resin should be in a well-ventilated area. Most organic solvents have a very high vapor pressure, so you'll get a lot of fumes continuously coming off of them. On top of that, most organic solvents, when breathed in, are very bad for your health. Everything from confusion, brain damage, lung damage, liver damage, and triggered asthma can all happen really easily around VOCs.
So, my advice to anyone wanting one of these printers: Only get one if you can keep it in your garage and can keep your garage well ventilated, or something even safer. Alternately, keeping it in a basement could work, so long as you keep the printer in an airtight enclosure that uses an exhaust system with activated charcoal filters, and the enclosure should be far, far away from any water heaters, furnaces, or flame sources. Most importantly, don't allow children around these solvents; they're far more susceptible to the organ damage and carcinogenic effects than adults.
Source: I'm a molecular biologist who used to work in an industrial lab.
Murphey Law, I don't doubt your credentials at all, and I certainly don't claim to be your equal where general knowledge of chemicals is concerned. My only concern is that I think overall, I think more has been made of the toxic effects of these particular resins than is really necessary. MSDS on all of the ones I've used have listed them as minor skin irritants, but people hear the word "toxic" and all of a sudden it's the greatest threat in the history of history. It's not going to kill you, and unless you have an allergy or are operating it in a coat closet the fumes and vapor aren't even that bad. Not saying you should do any heavy breathing directly over the machine or anything, don't shower in the stuff, and anyone who thinks it's a good idea they should drink it kind of deserves what they get (clearly DON'T do that), but use gloves and eye protection and you'll be fine operating this inside your house without having to relegate it to basement or garage. I think most people are around much more hazardous materials and vapors when they fill up their gas tanks than this thing puts off.
I’m debating on using one of these printers in my garage. My garage can get very hot, cold and humid throughout the year. Is there a specific temperature range that these printers need to operate in? Thanks.
@@thomascruise4966 Did Your point changed over the years? I recently accepted that my nose gets irritated from the fumes and even stopped using the gloves because there was never any effect on my skin from accidental touching it. As long as I used gloves for actually dealing with liquid resin and I think that it doesn't matter if it touches your skin for a minute or two if You can just wash your hands soon after.
@@sasori2425 I would honestly suggest a more aggressive setup. I don't know the details of your home , so I can't comment too directly, but (at a minimum) putting it by the window and having a box fan in the window blowing outwards would be strongly advised. Additionally, perhaps a barrier you put under the door leading to the bedroom to help contain the fumes would help. (Even just an old towel that you kick partially under the door to block airflow would be extra safe)
But, if you have young children and/or small pets (especially birds), I wouldn't take the chance in your shoes.
Now, if you set up a fume-hood style enclosure that is constantly outputting the air directly to the outside and you're extremely careful about spilling the resin outside of the enclosure, you probably should be good.
@@thomascruise4966 This is old but you become allergic to resin with repeated exposure eventually. Minimising all contact is important.
Hey Angus really great video, I have been selling and supporting specialty chemicals for over 20 years now and I hate it when suppliers gloss over safety rules. couple of things I saw that you missed. Work in a well ventilated area (that is just good advice for all 3D printers FDM gives off nasty fumes as well). I have 1 unbreakable rule in my demo center - WASH your HANDS with SOAP and WATER - or any part of you that is exposed to the uncured resin.
The general indicators of UV curing liquids on your skin is irritation and rash, soap and water will generally clear the contamination and you are good to go.
It is not dangerous to work with liquid resins as long as you follow the basic safety procedures, I hope that in future videos you will reinforce the safety aspect of working with resin printers.
One last thing, I also wear a lab coat to protect my clothes from splashes - you like of look like a mad scientist while working with the printers so I guess it is also kind of cool.
Angus, glasses on BEFORE gloves on. Glasses off AFTER gloves off. ;) Don't handle glasses with gloves.
Haha yeah, normally I do that just mixed up the order while filming ;)
Exactly, the resins aren’t as dangerous as it seems here to begin with (look at the MSDS) but always good to wear gloves. Problem though is, wearing gloves gives a false sense of security, you have to be super careful not touching things all over the place and you can make it actually worse overall because you feel protected. Just like how people with airbags and all sorts of protection suddenly start driving faster.
@@VincentGroenewold BMW's must be really safe then if they don't follow any traffic rules :P (yes, I know how old this comment is)
@@RasMatHam02 Traffic rules are never broken? ;) It's human nature I'm talking about, I worked in a lab and there it was the rule for an entire lab to either wear gloves, or only when handling certain stuff and then take it off immediately. Precisely because people are sloppy and cross-contaminate. And that was part of my point here, if you start wearing gloves, the user has to be aware that you either always use them in that room only or you implement a good strategy. But you have to think about it and not many do that, hence the false sense of safety.
@@VincentGroenewold I always drive 10 over
Angus also Important to talk about ventilation. You're breathing these chemicals in, so make sure you have either a dedicated air extraction system, or a super well ventilated space!
YES
What kind of breathing filter do you need for these? A? B? AX?
Indeed ! That the most important security wise i think , best is to have an air extractor straight from to the air exit of the printer if possible.
@@youdigsurf What’s consider a well ventilated space?
@@alonzogonzalez4272 honestly for the mono x , i will say a garage. Obviously not a place where you live, i used it in my office got a smell for 2 days for a 3 hours print, maybe it’s less problematic on small printer. ? Atm im making a air extracting setup with a airconditioning tube , inline air fan and charcoal filter , waiting to receive all the part to finish it.
Thanks for taking the time to make a video on this matter. I've been looking for content of this kind for a while now. After playing with the thought of getting an SLA printer and reading up on them I became very hesitant to get one because you basically bring a small factory into your home. But with your video, I feel at least like I can reduce the risks for me and anyone around me.
Please remember to buy Nitril gloves, as they will protect against the chemicals, normal latex gloves often wont.
I just read the safety chart, it is not extremely toxic. The test on rabbits mostly showed the eyes and the skin were mildly irritating with an dose of 500mg/24hours. There are not really many long term effects known when coming in contact in low doses.
Just wear gloves but you don't be scared overtly scared of it.
Thanks. Everyone keeps saying "blah blah blah resin is toxic blah blah . . ." with NO clarification of what the symptoms or risks are. I mean, I DID get some on my skin, and I ain't dead, so obviously there is a bit more nuance than just "toxic." Lol.
From what I’ve read, it’s not Necessarily a toxin, but Hazardous because it can penetrate skin, and then upon UV (sunlight) exposure, can cure in your body, which causes an immune reaction that can result in additional complications with repeat exposure, much like repeat exposure to allergens eventually causing worsening effects and eventually anaphylaxis.
@@ruggeddusty any experimental evidence? And what you say isn't true for allergies. The immune system is extremely more complicated than that. As a counter argument, take a look at 'Allergen Immunotherapy'. What do they is repeated exposure to Allergens and this lowers the allergy reaction over time due to desensitization.
I'd love to see some better data as well. Just sharing what I've come across so far.
@@bonnome2 resins containing chemicals that are known sensitizers is totally a thing, and as far as I've read, it isn't treatable in the same way as environmental allergens like dustmites.
A sensitizer is defined by OSHA as "a chemical that causes a substantial proportion of exposed people or animals to develop an allergic reaction in normal tissue after repeated exposure to the chemical."
@@ruggeddusty I took a look at google scholar. "Resin" is a really broad term. Most pictures you find on google are about epoxy, this resin uses methacrylate, acrylate monomers, acrylate polymers with a photoinitiator
. There are indeed reporting of some allergies from this type of resin from woman that use artificial nails.
Apparently most 'gel nails' use a resin based on the exact same components.
Like I said. Just wear gloves but you don't have be overtly scared of this stuff.
I was sent here cause I was caught handling uncured resin bare handed. Glad to see homeboy Muse is using the same brand of metho. Top work boss thank you for the video.
Hi Angus! Thank you SO much for your videos! I've been researching 3D printers for about 6 months now and your info is very helpful! I've trained on CAD programs and Slicers so I'm now savvy with that software. The search for a printer continues . .
You get to the point and you cover everything, to the point were I am taking notes on how you present tutorials to better write my own for my programs and when I teach other people. Keep up the solid work!
Maker's Muse: gloves are cheap
Covid: you sure about that
Good comments on safety with UV resins. I work with these materials so I thought I would add a few things:
UV curing resins likely use acrylate functionality which are sensitising materials. Like you said you want to minimise skin contact as much as possible, you can develop serious allergies to these materials if you keep getting them over yourself!
To add to eye safety, DO NOT wear contact lenses while working with these materials, even with safety glasses. These materials can fuse the lenses to your eye and permanently destroy your vision!
These materials use chemicals called photoinitiators to polymerise the resins when exposed to UV light, depending on what ones they are using (likely cheap) they can carry serious reprotoxic hazards (mostly for women or the unborn child), so once again a note on not getting the uncured materials on your skin!
Likewise I wouldn't be making anything that would be in contact with food out of these resins, they are not food contact safe and uncured components will migrate out of the part into food if in contact.
THANK YOU! I was trying to figure out the proper way to dispose of unusable uncured resin/solvents. You are the first person to address that. Hopefully this video teaches people not to dump stuff like that down the drain (which is horrible for both public health and safety, and the environment.)
Thanks Angus. You're a treasure to the 3d printing community
Wow! This video opened my eyes to the complexity and expense of just getting a print from this type of device. I've never really dug into investigating this process and other YT videos seem to not mention the FULL process from start to finish. So, a great "thank you very much" for this!
I guess at this current moment in time you'd want to be pretty committed and have an ulterior motive for the final result to choose this method over FDM.
Thanks! That was exactly my aim with this video. It really does produce the best detail, but yeah the mess and processing is really not suitable for a domestic environment.
The same thing crossed my mind.
It's not as involved, or dangerous as this guy makes it out to be. Once UV resin hits IPA, it's rendered inert.
8BitLife, how so? Do you even know what the curing agent is, and can you describe its reaction with isopropanol? Do you have a reliable source for your claim?
Also according to Dr. Dave Light, who posted elsewhere, he is aware of 3 people being hospitalised with persistent migraine, persistent memory loss, and respiratory failure from resin printer use - people who allege they have been following manufacturer's recommendations.
Your "Dr. Dave Light" is full of shit too. LOL
I love the idea of resin printers it's just the safety hazards that drive me away.
The safety hazards are overrated. I've been using a resin printer for a while now and I don't even bother wearing gloves anymore. I'm asthmatic, but the printer is setup in my room and doesn't affect me at all.
Companies need to state the safety issues as if they're talking to the most fragile child, so there's no way someone can sue them, but unless you're rubbing uncured resin into open wounds or something you'll be fine.
@@SMScarlet Ok, good. I ask because I also make things like toys for both people and animals. So If I make a dog toy with resin is there enough safety information available for me to read for each specific resin as there with the other type of printer?
@@loszhor Easily, just read the side of the bottle of the resin you've ordered. There's a hundred different types of resin, even ones made for dental implants.
@@SMScarlet Ok, good. I will reconsider this then.
@@SMScarlet That is definetely not safe way of acting. It might work for once person, after all people are different, but handing uncured resin is definetely not something you should not play around with. "I did it and it was okay" is a reason for one who was unaffected, but doesn't speak for the mass who got got resin hypersensitivity or liver problems.
I quote the 'Flying machine' conondrum: if ten pilots fly off, and only one returns, then the one can say "I lived" and thus the returning pilots had hundred percent success chance. The ones who fell don't come back and say "I died"
Nice to see a simple, straightforward safety video.
The most important part of any review is the Safety and you covered it well Angus, regards to the Family and Happy Extruding !
Rather than IPA, look at Yellow Magic 7, it's designed for UV inks, but works with this too. It's water based and non-toxic. The best part is, it's reusable. Put your container in the sun, the resin hardens in the YM7 and then you just filter it out. Works great!
Thank you for this. This is not talked enough in the community. People will get sick.
How about the fumes? How toxic are they?
I’m really glad you mentioned this. I saw 3D printing nerd touching parts using the Polysmooth Polysher without gloves and was wondering how bad that stuff would be. Dissolved plastic in alcohol can more easily sleep into your skin. No good!
I have 5 FDM printers, and just bought this one. It has not yet arrived. Your tips on how to handle finished prints are going to help me immensely as I dive into this new kind of printing! Thank you!
...but...but...resin prints look so tasty, straight from the machine :(
Tell me about it... especially the neon green ones :(
just lick it
Uncured resin is the gateway to Tide pods.
no, no. do not eat these because they could cause harm to you.
@@gatagoslow134 that joke went straight over your head
NOTE: Curing time depends on the resin. Very few resins cure in a few minutes out in the sun. For example, at the lab I go to there are multiple resins for the form 2 printer and we usually put them in an isopropyl alcohol bath for 20 min and a UV curing station for an hour.
This was great, man. I've been thinking a lot lately about getting into SLA and specifically the Photon, so I can't wait to see the review. Thanks for the awesome content and information once again.
Very cool video, thanks for always giving in back to the community by trying to provide safer conditions!
What about fumes? I've seen a multitude of warnings, and recommendations for using a respirator, and avoiding breathing the fumes in.
Also a litte side-note about the spatula (and this is just speculation):
I believe the 3d printer companies supply plastic spatulas to avoid damaging the build plate. If a too hard and sharp spatula is used it could easily scratch the plate and remove some of the morpology that is designed to keep the 3d print from falling off the build plate.
A good rule of thumb is to use a weaker spatula than the stength/hardness of the build plate.
I’m wondering the same thing about the fumes. Did you figure it out?
I didn’t look to far into it, unfortunately. However, most 3D printing channels I have checked out either explicitly mention the fumes as a a hazard, or show themselves wearing a respirator.
I believe if you work in a well ventilated area (such as having your printer nearby an open window, or hatch) it is fine, but it’s definitely something to be aware of and take precautions against. Especially if you think you might have a reaction to the fumes.
By the way, the masks that are often supplied with printers do nothing against fumes as they don’t stop the tiny gas molecules of the fumes. That is why respirator masks are so special.
As for the side-note I wrote, there also seems to be a difference between spatulas used. Some have plastic spatulas. These are used to scrape the screen clean, as it is easily scratched. The screen should not be scraped with something sharp as it’s so easy to damage.
There are also metal, or similar, spatulas which work better for the build plate where you might need more force to loosen your actual 3D print, and where the surface isn’t as easily scratched.
Remarkably lacking anything on the harmful effects of resin and why it is toxic
Thanks for bringing light to the safety aspects of SLAs, really under reported.
This was timely to come up in my algorithm. I thought I was being savvy getting nitrile work gloves thinking I could reuse, from comments here and you video Angus, it seems I’ll be reverting to disposables. Brand new to this world, so hungry for any tips like this.
I had the G4D Kickstarter resin printer and for me the biggest safety issue is the fumes from the resin. I am surprised you didn’t mention this as the fumes are also toxic. Having resin in the house for a day made all of us feel ill
Folks forget the silent killer - fumes..... I just watched a lady on TH-cam use this machine for a 6 hr print in her dining room!! I was like... NOOOOOOO.... people are a bit too relaxed with regard to these printers just because they are getting cheap and affordable. Until someone dies from fumes, contact poisoning or their home burning down - unfortunately, the safety part of things just isn't going to hit home.
Regarding the fumes. They are immediately perceived as more dangerous than the liquid resin because of the dreadfully toxic smell you get while printing.
The resin itself just looks like thin treacle and its easy to get complacent over something which looks harmless.
A simple cardboard fume hood with a $10 fan ducted out of a window works just fine.
@@zybch Could be... but folks are buying these for $300 and just setting them up on the kitchen table....! Not... good....
This was my note too, because when I worked with resin (sticker doming), I always had to account not just for avoiding touching it but avoiding fumes. This meant plenty of ventilation and wearing some kind of filtration mask over nose and mouth. I would also very much worry about this stuff around pets or small children.
Also, I would never just plop a part in to a bath of IPA and let it splash. The part that lowers the item in to the solution is there for a reason. :D
I ran photo labs for a decade. When I left the industry, I vowed to no longer work around chemicals that were toxic to the touch. Seems like resin printers really aren't for me, at least right now.
so it would be better to work it only outside, not inside
I doubt the resin from sla printing is as toxic as color photo development chemicals. I mean gasoline is something I wouldn't want to have repeated contact with my skin but it's not like i'm taking special precautions to prevent it because it's not a major concern. if it gets on me I wash it off. We don't even wear eye protection when we fuel our cars...and honestly I've been sprayed by pumps several times and gasoline in the eyes doesn't sound very safe.
@@TheNitroG1 Resin is way more annoying than gasoline as it's sticky and doesn't wash off with anything other than copious amounts of alcohol. If you get some on your hands and try to wash it off in the sink with soap, the water just rolls off like those hydrophobic surfaces and all you're doing is smearing it around on your hands. I've worked with LOCA UV-curing glue for phone screens and it's the worst.
@@peshozmiata do you have experience with print resin or just the UV glue? If so, what resin are you using? I've used both Anycubic's proprietary resin and Monoprice Rapid (grey) in my Photon and they both clean pretty quickly with a little bit of IPA 91%.
Great channel here. I watch you a lot from the States. I am BRAND new to printing, in fact 8 weeks out. I was looking at my first printer being a Resin but I decided the gloves, safety glasses, worry about contamination, clean up and not even sure if the printing is any better for all that extra work, and it's a lot of work. I ended up with 2 printers. The first one, don't laugh as it got a lot of negative reviews, Dobot MOOZ-2. Got it for a song and dance on Amazon, $220 vs. the similar Snap Maker at over $700. My first printer I though, let's be budget savvy and I liked the 3 functions, 3D print, laser engraving, and CNC. First 4 week was nearly every day a filament jam. But then I learned. EXTREMELY straight filament cut to a point and then heat the nozzle to 200 degrees then push the manual extruder mechanism button to move the feeder wheels and now no jam ever. Then it was the print bed, no sticking. I tried the hairspray - not consistent, painters tape - not consistent, glue stick - a little better, Elmer's glue, the cheap school glue - perfection. Since I am doing a lot of projects I also picked up a PRUSA mini. So, both my printers have small volume which, so far, suits my purpose. If I get the need, I see you guys have like 7-8 printers and I will go larger next time. This may shock you but the DOBOT-MOOZ, with all the negative reviews, is producing as good often better prints than the PRUSA. Unreal. Thought I would say hi from the US and I am probably going to stay clear of the resin unless some reply that I am completely missing the boat and that resin printers are seriously superior.
Great video Angus. Just bought an Elegoo Mars 2 the other day and am in process of setting it up. Being in Chicago, don't have as much sunlight as down under so bought an Anycubic washer and UV curing station as well. I started with FDM but wanted to resin print for a while so here we go. Great idea with the tray underneath too. Look forward to your future videos
Yes I know it's the Anycubic PHOTON and not Mega :P Review in a few weeks. Happy Printing!
love my machine. using it more that i do the moai.
Wheres the mk3 review?
Can you comment on whether it contains the smell? I know some of the resins smell quite bad so I was wondering if the print chamber is sealed in this case.
You got it right earlier in the vid. :-) Watching this, though, reinforces the idea in my head that I shall not own one of these printers any time soon, particularly with kids around.
depends on the system the photon has a couple of fans in it. but a lot of users are building chambers to put them in and vent the resin smell outside. i have used mine in the room. smell vareys from resin to resin. but some form of venting is only a good thing. :)
How long can you leave the resin in the in the machine without printing?
Thanks for posting this. I've only been mildly curious about resin but this video shows a better picture than a review.
Good to see larger channels picking up of the complexity of resin. Once of my videos cover just the post print cleanup of a D7. It's a tricky printer to run and the resin easily gets everywhere. One more tip I have is leave the cleanup materials in the sun. I use a glass sheet under your work on instead of the baking tray I put all of that out in the sun to cure resin. You can do that with used gloves before discarding. But dont do it while wearing them the resin gets hot when curing, bordering on exothermic in my experience. Video is on my channel if you want more detail on how I cleanup.
Amazon has some great containers for pickles that are just like the Formlabs wash station. Off topic question, anyone know what the music is at the end of the video?
A head-to-head comparison between DLP and SLA would be great to see. I've gathered that SLA offers higher resolution than DLP, but DLP consumables are FAR less expensive than those of SLA. TH-cam is telling me that the resin tank cost of SLA is troubling. $60 US dollars and up, and they MUST be replaced with alarming frequency. With DLP, only a piece of plastic needs replacing which costs less than $7, if I understand things correctly. A dollar-to-dollar shootout might be entertaining and informative.
3d maker noob I think did a pretty good comparison th-cam.com/video/xDUWcQuj7VU/w-d-xo.html. If money is no matter, the sla IS better, but you need a magnifier to really see it on most prints. SLA is typically faster as well because the laser is more powerful than the UV led light. DLP is fixed duration for every layer, sla has to move the laser over it, so the time per layer will vary. SLA also has more resins that will work with it. Some of the slower cure resins don't work well in DLP printers. A cheap dlp is about 550 usd, a cheap sla is about 2000 usd.
Yeah, but it's more fun when somebody standing at a desk or in a garage workshop goes through it step by step. It's like an entertainment show on the TV! I did see & enjoy the Noob video.
DLP and SLA both use the same resins, so the per part price of the two are identical given the same model. Because the laser is generally far more powerful than the UV bulb in DLP printers, the DLP capable resins are a subset of the SLA resins. Anything that works on DLP should work on SLA given the same wavelengths of light, but the reverse is not always true. As far as the beds themselves, the FEP sheet on most DLP printers is pretty cheap as you say, but the price of the laser beds is harder to nail down. It varies a lot from printer to printer depending on their features. The bottom layer, which is the part that actually fails CAN be DIY replaced. I have seen videos on it, but don't know the details very well, and it is a more in depth proceedure than swapping out an FEP sheet on the DLPs.
DLP is SLA
There's a feeling that you'r really take serious all the things related to safety (across all video's not just this one), i'm not sure anyone else in youtube takes that as you.
in the time of now where there's a cheep very nice printers that are reachable for younger ages this is extremely important
I like that.
very nice as usual
Matan
Great video! Thanks for those tips! I was thinking in getting one of this machines but now I need to think thoroughly about the pros and cons.
You left out an important safety item FIRE alcohol is extremely flammable.
With the resin you want to ventilate the room anyway.
A concentrated, super fine mist of methylated spirits in a CNC fog cooling can't be ignited even when blowing directly into a torch. But having it evaporate in unmoving air...that's a completely different story. But you're going to smell it way ahead of such concentrations and the splitting headache of accidentally breathing the stuff will make sure you remember.
Can you tell me where I can find a cleaning station like the one you use at 5:55? I'm setting up a printer at my work and it has a UV curing box, but no cleaning station. The manual recommends using Tupperware boxes! I'd prefer a more contained system like what you're using, but my brief Google search didn't turn up with anything.
Think I found it, it's $100 so not sure I'd buy it myself, but it does look nice formlabs.com/store/form-3/accessories/form-3-finish-kit/
@@minimalismmd Was looking for that. Thank you!
Good advice .My first prints on SLA stunk the house out and my missus got a 3 day headache, worth mentioning that having the machine in the house is not a good idea. Looks like Angus has his in the garage. I moved to the shed with lots of air circulation and also kept all things that touch the resin in an airtight box, spatula, small rinse pot, vat FEP scraper, straining mesh, everything that stinks! Also replaced the flouro lights with LED to mitigate any curing of my resin in the vat, or resin on the straining mesh.
So glad you've made this video! Safety considerations with the resin is the main thing that's been stopping me from getting one
Pleasure, it's definitely a serious consideration.
I've checked the material safety datasheet of the formlab photoreactive resin, its really not that bad. its acute LD50 of the most toxic component of it is over 2000mg/kg body weight, thats slightly toxic. And it is a mild skin irritant(vinegar for example has a higher rating), mild eye irritant(again, vinegar for example is worse) and it might cause Respiratory or skin sensitization. Thats really not that bad if you wash your hands after you handle it. At least according to what i read in the safety datasheet.
Certinaly, wearing gloves is a good idea, but its really not more dangerous(probably considerably less, depending on what you use) than your average toilet cleaner or whatever.
jort93z True, I've heard the formlabs resin is quite mild. But I've also heard that there are other resins, particularly cheaper options, that have some pretty nasty odours that make it uncomfortable to be in the same room while the printer is running. I suppose it just depends on how willing you are to shell out for resin that is inherently a bit more safe or just take the necessary precautions when using the harsher stuff
I would doubt that other resins are a lot unsafer(check edit). they probably all use similar components i would think. But of course it is going to be hard to find a safety data sheet for some 30$ chinese resin from aliexpress or whatever, so you kinda don't know.
If i compare MSDS's from different resins, they are all very similar. they vary in some ways, some say immediatly seek medical attention after you get anything in your eye(and rinsed it of course), others say thats only necissary if an irritation persists for example.
However, the MSDS's of a bunch of different resins(just kinda googling for a few) seem to consider them mildly toxic and a mild irritant. Regarding ventilation, they all say the area should be well ventilated, generally no respirator should be needed.
It might smell bad, but i do not believe that you need to be more careful with the resin than with say a typical bathroom cleaner. Just use some gloves and preferably protective glasses.
Edit: actually, the wanhao resin(which is one of the cheap options), is a lot more corrosive than the others. It can cause serious irreversable eye damage, its also more of a skin irritant, though still not considered full on corrosive on skin. Not much more poisionous, but quite corrosive. Still not more corrosive than a harsh cleaner, but I'd definitly wear eye protection when handling that one. Definitly check the MSDS of the resin you are working with if you can find it. You might not be wrong that the cheap ones are generally more unsafe.
HI
I was wondering ware did you get your Alcohol dip container, that's really nice and a clean system.
if someone know it i want one too
@@dannlee3849 Ditto!
Does anyone know how long can I leave my finished model in the printer? Let's say I finish in the afternoon, can I wait till next morning, or should I cure the model immediately?
K. Gabor, I usually just cure it whenever I’m around. I don’t think you have to rush to get it cured.
As long as it's moderately dark where the printer is, it can sit there for an extended period. I've been told you can leave the resin in the vat indefinitely as long as it's not exposed to UV. Just remember to stir it before use.
So stoked that you have an Anycubic Photon, mine arrived last week and I have been kinda too cautious to fire it up yet. I've been hoping someone would make a video like this! Thanks!
THANK YOU!
1:03 - POP
Can you explain more about why they're toxic? does it burn/irritate/cause cancer/nausea ??
The msds sheets I have read on the ones I have used just list them as minor irritants. Not a big deal, but can cause rashes etc. Definitely wear the gloves, but if you get a drop on you and you wash it off with alcohol, you will be fine.
Potential allergy risk. Cases of respiratory issues, nausea, migraine, memory loss have been reported. This should be fairly rare, but it might be life threatening for some people.
Do Chinese resins like you get with Anycubic or Wanhao even come with an MSDS? If there is an MSDS, how can we be certain that they hold to it and that no manufacturing fault causes a deviation and adds a non-neutralised byproduct?
@@Alluvian567
Never wash skin with solvents without specific professional advice. Solvents usually have the undesirable effect of making the contaminant penetrate deeper into skin.
It's exactly like how you typically stain leather if you try to clean it with alcohol.
The resin is basically a mix of monomers and a photoinitiator. Monomers tend to be corrosives or irritants as they are small reactive molecules like styrene or methacrylic acid derivatives which if volatile may also be lachrimators (affect eyes/lungs/mucous membranes). The photoinitiators are more hazardous as they are free radical generators like organic peroxides however they are usually only present in the small amounts needed to start polymerisation of the resin (less than 5% wt/wt will bring things with a corrosive/oxidising hazard designation down to an irritant). Many of these types of chemicals can cause skin sensitisation in worst cases.
Nice video! Great info and advise on disposing of the waste stuff too!
thank you so much! Have an Anycubic coming Friday, first printer!
Let's put this into context about how toxic this stuff is...
Acrylated monomer Acute Oral toxicity LD50 > 5300 mg/kg body weight
Acrylated oligomer Acute Oral toxicity LD50 > 5000 mg/kg body weight
Photoinitiators Acute Oral Toxicity LD50 > 2500 mg/kg body weight
Photoinitiators Acute Dermal Toxicity LD50 > 5000 mg/kg body weight
Average weight of a male UK - Wales 84.0 kg (185.2 lb)
Acrylated monomer oral toxic dose 84 x 5.3g = 445.2g
Acrylated oligomer oral toxic dose 84 x 5.0g = 420.0g
Photoinitiators Acute Oral Toxic dose 84 x 2.5g = 210.0g
Photoinitiators Acute Dermal Toxic dose 84 x 5.0g = 420.0g
In order to get a toxic dose, you'd have to drink 1.5 liters of the stuff or bathe in the stuff long enough that all of the 1.5 liters absorb through your skin.
Be cautious, use protection, but acetone and isopropyl alcohol is as dangerous than this stuff. With lemon oil being more deadly.
Isopropyl alcohol: ORAL (LD50): Acute: 5045 mg/kg
Acetone: ORAL (LD50): Acute: 5800 mg/kg
Lemon oil: ORAL (LD50): Acute: 2840 mg/kg I love lemons!!!!
LD50 = the amount of the substance required (usually per body weight) to kill 50% of the test population.
Thank you for the video and for stressing safety, please wear shoes and socks if you are stressing not dripping resin on your skin. It will be just as toxic through your foot as it will be through your hand.
Hi, great channel, keep in mind that water based resins are available now, this greatly improves usability and makes the whole process less harmful and less messy
Safety and environmental aspects are rarely given sufficient attention. Thumbs up after two years as good as any time.
Leaving that alcohol to evaporate, in a garage, sounds like a spark from one of the cheaper printers would be interesting. Not to mention breathing the stuff.
Outside undercover, not in an enclosed space :)
No problems breathing IPA, it's also known as rubbing alcohol, used as an antiseptic on skin.
What happen if you touch the uncured resin? I know it's dangerous and I won't do it but I want to know what happen if you do
Any chemical you touch gets absorbed thru your skin, then into the blood stream. All chemicals vary in rate of absorption. Some, like acetone can get into your system quickly, and others like resins a little more slowly. The issue is accumulation in your organs and damage over time, which can cause cancer, and or failure of things like the liver, lungs ect.
To understand the specifics of this resin, or any other chemical's health affects you have to find out what the chemical is ( brand ect) , and look up the MSDS reports on it.
Thanks for all the tips, Angus! Looking forward to my first resin printer.
Thanks boet! :) Will definitely be using your tips when unboxing my printer and setting her up.
Angus you seam to forgot one of the most important P P E the respirator as these resin smell and fumes from IPA you project your hands and eyes what about you lungs
So is it safe to drink the uncured resin ?
Yes, but you should mix it with IPA.
It will be the next big fad after eating tide pods and snorting condoms.
no
_"no"_
So yes then ?
no
Very wise advice.
This new laser cutter add on looks so well constructed. It's anodized brushed aluminum. Oh darn it. My eye!
The stuff nobody talks about, but are the most important.
"you only have two eyes", say that for yourself, I have some spare eyes safely stored.
ikr? What kind of maker doesn't have a DIY organ cloning vat in their garage? SMH.
@@spamspasm8183 i just steal them from orphans.
sometimes orphans are hard to find, so I just make my own
I'm so disappointed that the thumbnail doesn't say "CAN'T TOUCH THIS!"
I was so so tempted haha
@@MakersMuse Well, we all know you are the Superfreak anyway. (Anyone who gets that?)
cool thanks for the safety tips and warnings nobody else even warned us of the hazards
This is the machine I've been looking into getting myself. Looking forward to your review. It would be interesting to test some of FormLabs' custom resins in it as well since they use the same UV wavelengths and Anycubic's resin options are quite limited.
As the T-shirt says, "Safety first, kids!"
Angus you are my favorite youtube creator
Thanks for the kind words Joseph!
No way, he is MY favorite!
So glad you made this video. I've just started looking into a resin printer today, and in one of the other videos I saw the reviewer briefly mentioned that the resin is toxic, so I'll want a well-ventilated area. Well, that got me thinking; what else do I need to know for my own safety? Thanks for addressing those factors!
Hi Angus, it took me a while to find decent isopropyl alcohol when I moved to Australia but they stock it in larger quantities at moulding, casting and sculpting supply shops like Barnes. They also stock drums of acetone which is another harder one to get in Australia
Me: FDM printers are great, but I think I'm going to go to SLA for my next printer so that I can print both big and small!
The 3D printing shops: 1L of resin is £60+.
Me: !!! Err... Well.... I guess the print's would be small so it'll probably last. (yeah yeah)
The 3D printing forum groups: SLA resin smells VERY bad.
Me: Bah... 3 fans for ventilation and I'll be fiiiine. XD
The 3D printing channel, Makers Muse: Extremely toxic, bio-hazard, gloves, curing, hollowing files, toxic, eye protection, finishing station, cheap insurance, tilting parts, nasty chemicals, toxic.
Me: ...
Me: You know... Now that I think about it, I'm sure a super accurate FDM printer that has a .2mm nozzle, a 2 digit micron layer height and can only accept the extra-pure £40 filament would work just as good, right...
My resin printer has destroyed itself with failed prints after 3 days. Definitely not worth the detail increase vs fdm.
Oops, I already put some down the drain
same, i mean i did it on accident because i had no idea. he's right when they say the internet isn't great about the safety thing. also had no idea curing was even a THING. so wee.
I cant stress this enough.... this was a really helpful video:) !
Rasin 3D Printing Really Troublesome!!! Thank you for all the Advice and tips you share. Like it, Love it. You are cool!!!
This tells me I don't want a resin printer. Actually very chemically sensitive so I should probably never be around one of those things LoL
Best solvent to clean resin is actually Acetone. Superior to both alcohols
I have heard otherwise. The general consensus amongst the community is that IPA is a good (cheap) option. There are better choices, but they can be expensive.
thaks for this video. i am just starting with resin so i am glad i found this video
Although I'm yet to use a resin-printer, some people like myself really react to resin fumes alone, but there are full-face ventilated masks to solve the problem (unfortunately mine wasn't cheap though, but that was almost 20yrs ago)!
Another thing I'd recommend is buy a few cheap vinyl craft-aprons that some bargain-shops stock, as they'll do a good job of protecting your clothing, & I've tested that they can be wiped clean with Isopropyl Alcohol (91%)!
You should wear some shoes if you get resin on the floor :-)
Haha good point. Aussies never wear shoes though!
That's true, I hate shoes, and my American friends are always freaked out by my barefoot ways. So happy to see a resin printing video, I really hope there will be more re orientation of models and tips and techniques. Already learned so much from this video, meths will save me heaps, Isopropyl is stupidly expensive here.
Legit. I hate wearing shoes too
Maker's Muse I guess then we have to invent some foot-gloves :-)
Maker's Muse Haha Aussies moan and groan about South Africans a lot but were similar in a lot of ways, I also prefer walking around barefoot when I'm just relaxing at home
ok Im going to ask... How unsafe is uncured resin? Seriously how toxic is it? I know you shouldent get chemicals on your skin but PPL do it anyway.
Read the material safety data sheets. For FormLabs materials it's not that bad. The fumes are the highest danger rating it gets, but I believe that is primarily if the material is heated above 150 C and degrades into dangerous gases. Print temp is around 30. Otherwise it's a minor skin irritant. Every material is different though, and I've heard other resins are more dangerous and have caused some effects to people that aren't properly using the machines. Doesn't mean you shouldn't wear gloves at a minimum and have a ventilated space, but in my experience minor skin contact with FormLabs resin doesn't do anything.
Yeah, it can cause rashes and such. That is about all it will do if you are being careful and get some on your hands. If you have the system down, you can do the cleanup without ever touching any uncured resin, but you will likely touch the resin/alcohol mix, this is mainly why I use the gloves. Gloves are a simple precaution so no real reason not to.
the biggest problem with chemicals like these if you get it on your hands. is that it eventually ends up on your face. and/or eyes
A very good point, that can still happen with gloves of course. I rinse my hands in the ipa a lot as I am working with it when I even think I may have touched it. And IPA through the gloves feels neat as they get really cold as the alcohol evaporates off. I have been using pure IPA so far since I had a bunch around, but methyl/ethyl alcohol is way cheaper so when I get more I will move to that and leave the IPA for cleaning my filament beds.
I also wonder how dangerous this really is. People said the same about ABS. Just saying.
Thank you! Just what I was looking for as I am just strating on the photon :)
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Thanks for taking the security of resin serious 👍
Wears gloves and goggles. Leaves arms, legs and feet exposed.
I don't think he's planning to handle the part with his elbows or toes.
See here's the thing.....liquids splash.
It's not acid, you can just wipe it off quickly from your skin if you get splashed. Eye washing is quite uncomfortable.
Protective suit for resin printing according to Argue should be like this pin.it/6j6ycfj3adwl5v
Argus FPV resin is also fairly viscous and i can't think of when you would ever have it splash
No thx.. too dangerous... too much work... too messy for the average home user.
Over 200,000 horrible deaths last month.
Great stuff, thanks! Just getting rolling, and this is super helpful.
Love it (6:11): Talking about safety with no shoes and putting the scratcher with (with dropping resin) aside on the lit of the container, which you will accidently open without gloves.
hm.... he said that it is toxic, but not why.... uhm.
"Protect your skin" -> isn't wearing shoes =/
I have a two stage decontamination setup. Everything that has resin on is primary goes into primary decon. After the print has been washed and cured, tools cleaned, its moved to second stage. Change gloves and clean the model/tools again with another Ipa bottle. All waste goes into its own bin with double heavy duty bin bags. After second decon I'll give it another 60sec cure in the UV station to harden anything after the support have been removed.
I've watched soo many clips on do's and don't for resin printing, and this is definitely one of the most important ones! So... I finally felt ready to add a resin sister to my filament roomie! The Creality LD-002R!
I also noticed that basically EVERY gosh darn video where ANYONE of you 3d printing youtubers talk about resin and gloves, literally EVERYONE says latex, when it's nitrile. Even when the boxes literally say Nitrile on them. x) So... I just found it funny that you ALSO did that! :P
Not going to tell you about the difference of latex and nitrile thou, since a vast majority of the comments below already do that. :P
Funny thing is, now I'm panicking about setting up the room for the machine, because it was sold out, not in stock, and they expected a delivery on the 14th of May, and with their 1-3 days delivery I expected the machine to be here somewhere between 14th to 17th May...
Great! Gives me enough time to fix a space to place it, and a better working area beside it for the post-processing, plus fixing some kind of UV curing thing (Sweden doesn't have a lot of sun after all, and while I have looked a lot at the Anycubic Wash & Cure, I can't afford it yet, so I'll need something basic but functional before that. But yeah.. I have time.
Also plenty of time to fix eye protective glasses, isopropanol, and nitrile gloves. :)
Guess what.
3D Prima had an early delivery apparently... so the postal company app sent me some parcel information today.
"Delivery is on it's way. Expected delivery: Tomorrow"
....I am equally exited and amazed.... as I am stressed and NOT ready for it yet. x) I've barely managed to fix an empty spot in the room for it, but I still need a table or a bench or something there to place it on... plus the post-process area ofc.... xD
Sometimes, things just simply go a little bit TOO good! :P