Great work guys!!!! thanks for the tip on when closing the🚪first and then lifting the handle straight 🆙 which then all the bolts lock in. I’m in the process of getting a front door which will be composite door. When the door closes the hook will automatically engage, no need to turn the thumb cylinder and also gives total security.
1:32:35 Appreciate the 'how to close it' discussion -- though the mechanisms might be simple to use, the best usage is not necessarily _intuitive._ Would love a simple demo of locking modes. Scenarios: 1) unlocked -- no key to enter or leave (say, kids or party guests are going in and out all the time); 2) locked, outside -- need key to enter, no key to exit (you're in the house and do not want to look for your key during a fire); 3) locked, both sides -- need key to enter or leave (you're away from the house and do not want to make it easy for burglars to simply walk out with bulky items).
Yep, lovely installation guys! Quick question : should the door pull in a bit when the handle is lifted up after closing? or should there be no 'resistance' lifting the handle? Cheers!
Great video guys - just had a composite door fitted and have varying gaps around the door between 4-8mm. The fitter has told me this is due to manufacturing tolerances…is this correct or have the door/frame been fitted incorrectly?
Hi, thanks for watching and the comments. Yes all the plates are installed at the factory and small adjustments can be made on site by the installation company.
Hi, apologies we have missed your message. You have probably sorted this now after 4 months 😂 but you can find the coupler trims here www.windowwidgets.co.uk/downloads/brochure/?brochurepage=4 If your still struggling do not hesitate to get in touch. Stephen
Hi, the gap between the wall can be filled with foam or a foam backing rod. It’s recommended to fill this gap first before silicone. We use foam as it adds an extra hold, provides added thermal benefits and gives a base to silicone against. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching 👍🏼
Not sure what the cling film comment means 🤔 At the start of the video we use professional grade clear carpet protector and dust sheets, not cling film. Thank you for watching 💙
@@mcdermottwindows9470 Sorry, it just looked very thin to me - exactly like cling film. What's wrong with damp proof course membrane? You can use it over and over, rather than throwing that thin stuff away every time (I presume you can't reuse it.)
Gods idea John, the carpet tape is a little expensive to just use once. DPC might be a little annoying to work on with it slipping and sliding everywhere. I did used to have a small off cut of EPDM rubber which was great for protecting hard surfaces whilst working 👍🏻
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Great start with a plastic sheet,we only ever used dust sheets ,but we did hoover up and leave tidy, but that stuff is magic. thanks for tip.
No worries, thanks for watching and your support Peter.
Great work guys!!!! thanks for the tip on when closing the🚪first and then lifting the handle straight 🆙 which then all the bolts lock in.
I’m in the process of getting a front door which will be composite door.
When the door closes the hook will automatically engage, no need to turn the thumb cylinder and also gives total security.
Nice installation and video Stephen
Brilliant video with great details and information.
Thanks for watching Paul and thanks for leaving a comment. Feedback from comments will only make the content better 👍🏻
Lovely work ste ✨
1:32:35 Appreciate the 'how to close it' discussion -- though the mechanisms might be simple to use, the best usage is not necessarily _intuitive._ Would love a simple demo of locking modes. Scenarios:
1) unlocked -- no key to enter or leave (say, kids or party guests are going in and out all the time);
2) locked, outside -- need key to enter, no key to exit (you're in the house and do not want to look for your key during a fire);
3) locked, both sides -- need key to enter or leave (you're away from the house and do not want to make it easy for burglars to simply walk out with bulky items).
Nice work 👍
Is it important to screw the sill on? Had a composite door fitted and getting water coming in between sill and door.
Brilliant video, very neat job excellent explanation and commentary!
Yep, lovely installation guys! Quick question : should the door pull in a bit when the handle is lifted up after closing? or should there be no 'resistance' lifting the handle? Cheers!
Hi, thank you for watching. Yes the door should pull in slightly with a little resistance or firmness to help give a good seal.
Great video guys - just had a composite door fitted and have varying gaps around the door between 4-8mm. The fitter has told me this is due to manufacturing tolerances…is this correct or have the door/frame been fitted incorrectly?
Hi, thanks for watching. Yes the normal gap around the edge of the door slab is usually 4/6mm.
Are all the keeper plates on the frame for the multipoint installed at the factory?
Cheers for this video guys, it’s appreciated 😎👍
Hi, thanks for watching and the comments. Yes all the plates are installed at the factory and small adjustments can be made on site by the installation company.
@@mcdermottwindows9470 Cheers🍻
Lovely that is we’re do u buy ur doors from looks a quality door
Hi, this one is a Composite Solidor bought direct from Solidor. Thanks for watching.
I can't find a 55mm pvc sill anywhere xD where do you guys get yours?
Hi, we use the 55mm cill from The Residence Collection. Thanks for watching.
Where can I get the trim that goes into the coupler bar? Looked online but don't actually know what it's called to search 🤣
Hi, apologies we have missed your message. You have probably sorted this now after 4 months 😂 but you can find the coupler trims here www.windowwidgets.co.uk/downloads/brochure/?brochurepage=4 If your still struggling do not hesitate to get in touch. Stephen
at 1:05:58 is that expandable foam to fill the gap between the door frame and the brick? Can you use silicon instead?
Hi, the gap between the wall can be filled with foam or a foam backing rod. It’s recommended to fill this gap first before silicone. We use foam as it adds an extra hold, provides added thermal benefits and gives a base to silicone against. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching 👍🏼
@@mcdermottwindows9470 Thank you for confirming 👍🏻
You'd be much better off using some damp proof course membrane at the start, instead of cling film!
Not sure what the cling film comment means 🤔 At the start of the video we use professional grade clear carpet protector and dust sheets, not cling film. Thank you for watching 💙
@@mcdermottwindows9470 Sorry, it just looked very thin to me - exactly like cling film. What's wrong with damp proof course membrane? You can use it over and over, rather than throwing that thin stuff away every time (I presume you can't reuse it.)
Gods idea John, the carpet tape is a little expensive to just use once. DPC might be a little annoying to work on with it slipping and sliding everywhere. I did used to have a small off cut of EPDM rubber which was great for protecting hard surfaces whilst working 👍🏻