Side Mount Float Pod Mods and Testing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Side Mount Float Pod Mods and Testing
Project Pocket Rocket Episode 3:
As we continue our search for more side to side stability on our 10 foot jonboat, we make some modifications to the side mount float pods and take them out for a test run. We also tested our newly built predator 670 longtail mud motor for speed! We will continue working on making these side mount float pods work on this boat, but it will take much more trial and error. Follow along while we go full send on Project Pocket Rocket. As always don't forget to stick around to the end of the video for the hater's corner and lots of funny bloopers!
Big thanks to Ryan @FIREANT for helping film the B-roll footage for this video!
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Cut boat in half lengthways and widen it 12", then lose the side pods, keep the swim deck ! Your real close to perfection! Then SEND IT so hard and far you need spare fuel tanks! Lolol love your channel, I subscribed! Especially love the scooter part of the show!
I saw a guy do that a while back widening his boat, and saw that all his welds cracked over time. which made me leery of doing that. Looks like a lot of folks are sending request so we will see what happens and looking forward to going full send with this little rocket.
@@SendItJonBoats I feel that good welds with factory type bracing are not too likely crack, or you could chose to rivet the panel and over lap by 6" each side for even better structure integrity! Good luck with your build! Really enjoying the show!!
I have side pods on my 16’ John boat , Works great.
I can send pics
An aluminum boat, just like any aluminum structure, needs to be able to flex. If not, the welds will always fail.
With all the stressful bullshit I've had going on in my life, I needed the laughter you bring in your videos
Thanks brother.
Glad I could provide some comical relief. Don't let stress get the best of you, I have been there done that and it is not worth it.
Love it! No scooter zone! Instead of no wake zone. I have had LT and Short tail MM. I love them all. Bunch of fun! 23 is good. I bet you can get 27 with the right set up!
LOL. I am shooting for high 30's with the 670 motor, don't know if that will happen but a guy can dream right?
Well as I was watching it my thoughts were about the way the water came over the top. I was going to suggest blending them further along the side. Maybe a tunnel ? Or more like a pontoon... ? Trying to redirect the water flow under the extension and change the wake angles. Then at the end of the video you said what I was thinking. So well I don't have a different suggestion. What a lot of fun and just cool project. Hope to see the progress soon. Have fun... Send it !
Yeah I think if we can get the water under the pods it will help, just got to try and see what happens
Hey Nimrod, Scooter here. (Ok now that we have that out of the way.) Side mount float pods for stability are not as horrible as some folks might think. Your implementation wasn't great, but you learn by trying things. There are actually commercial products for canoes that do this, or there used to be. I didn't look today. I'm thinking a retracting pontoon on each side that can be lifted and retracted when underway may be a better if marginally more complex solution. Of course, they can be a problem in close quarters unless they come fully inside the boat, but they "could" provide additional stability when fishing without sacrificing much performance underway. I think for weight you might be better off to go with an ABS plastic float instead of aluminum, but you race the horse you have. Not the one you wish you had.
Sincerely,
Scooter
P.S. If you choose to mock this post at the end of one of your videos you can call me Scooter. You can call me Five Minutes on The Water, or you can use my real name. Bob La Londe. If you hurt my feelings and make me cry I promise to start an Internet feud and call you a poo poo head in some future video. Seems that's always good for ratings. LOL.
Some of us have to learn the hard way. But I think we are on the right track, just got to keep trying
If you want to keep the side pods I would think raising them up so they just touch or do not at touch the water at all when on plane would be your best bet. That would reduce the drag while on plane and still giving stability when the boat is sitting still or moving slowly. I know that would be a lot of work, but that is just my 2 cents, best of luck with this. I like to see people test and show result, thanks for the info and entertainment.
Yeah that's a good idea. I will see what I can come up with when I get into the shop and get the welder cranked up.
@@SendItJonBoats i know this is old video but to bring your wake forwards you could make the sun deck shaped like a tunnel hull. That is essentially what regular float pods do (and it worked in your float pod myths/lies video).
You could also move up the side pods as mentioned above and have what they call a reverse chine to keep the spray down (could be made with some aluminum angle).
Also i like your idea that instead of the front of the side pod sitting vertically it could be angled down some so that it generates lift like a trim tab. Side effect would be less drag and get the stern out of the water(wake crest should move forward).
I don’t have a ton of experience but just some ideas
You should run a longer taper, and run a bottom taper up so the water can flow under. Take some angle and build a Kelso th stone the side drifting. Love your boat.
Good idea, seems a lot of people want to see them extended and more angle.
That's awesome! I have this aluminum Husky truck bed toolbox... getting the tape measure out... oh God I could put an inboard motor inside of it. 😂 I think my 1956 Sears 12ft jon would break apart at high speed tho. Its built like an old screened door.
Who cares, throw some duct tape and 5200 and it, and go full send!!!
@@SendItJonBoats now I have a much better 12ft V bottom and a 20hp Merc that needs mounted up.
Wow you came out of the hatch. It didn’t look easy. The haterade is fantastic 👊👍
Thanks for the view, glad you enjoyed it.
I hit a rock going full speed on Stony Lake in Ontario Canada a few weeks ago and busted up my prop, they don't call it Stony Lake for nothing 😂🤣. I had to paddle back to the boat launch for over 3 hours and then finally got a tow back. You gotta laugh sometimes.
Note to self, always have a spare prop in the boat. 🙂
@@mikehurtle Agreed. Gave me a reason to buy 2 spare props.
I feel your pain.... I have been stranded in that boat and paddled more miles than I ever wanted too.
Great video bud, thanks for having me out
Glad to have ya bud, you were a huge help.
Don't know but I'd say the first idea. Also maybe round bottom edge. Just found your channel, looking about float pods. Love the scooter corner!! LMAO 😂
Thanks for checking out the video, many more idiotic episodes coming soon and lots of scooters as always.
Just found your site. LOVE the sarcasm and return snubs and facial expressions. Slam those Scooters good.
Oh ya ..... ........I own an 18 foot jon boat....
Thanks Glen, we just try to have fun and give some shat back to the scooters. Everyone these days is so scared to call out the idiots on the interwebs.
Great blooper: He's using a paddle and the whole time he's forgotten there's a trolling motor sitting in the boat. LMAO... Seriously, I hope the next adjustments to the float pods to the trick... It looks like your getting really close to making them work.
LMAO... what he forgot to mention is the last time I ran the battery dead trying to start the motor so the trolling motor was no good. Row Row Row your boat... ughhhh it sucked! LOL
@@SendItJonBoats Well at least you had a paddle... it would have been a real pickle using that trolling motor to paddle.
@@hammer9856 lol... i need a video of that lol
I think your chainsaw is the right choice. The rear swim platform is plenty. The side pods are only going to slow you down. You want a streamline hull from front to back.
You may be right. Just hate that the boat is so sketchy without them.
I feel that extending the side pods forward with a downward taper towards the bottom of the boat will do as you said push water under them and help with floating the rear of the boat, but I suggest making it a longer taper than 10-12” forward. More like 16ish”? Catches more water to throw under the rear. Just a thought? Love your channel an the content! Please keep up the good work sir! I am actually building a tin boat myself right now too. 1436 with a 25hp outboard on a 6” jack plate I fabed out of 6” I beam
You are on the right track James, I am getting my welding stuff together so I can do just as you described and hopefully push water under the boat and not plow it,
Glad to see you finally working on this again. I really wanna see the side pods work. I was gonna say maybe angle the front back some so it's not so abrupt and won't shoot so much water. I really feel like that's slowing you down. But your idea of angled forward and pushing water under the boat might work too.
Yeah the side pods are keeping it from getting up on plane and going any faster. I may try one more mod before hacking them off.
Adjusting the skag to the left to keep the prop centered in the wake will make it handle a lil more reasonably at speed, and it looks like you could benifit from some small planing tabs to keep the prop in the water
It still needs some adjustment and we were working through getting it dialed in and got swamped with rain. Next time we will get it dialed in.
This is the way to go for any longtail reaching over 20mph. Handles like a dream
I like the idea of tapering and maybe even the top of the plate above the float
Cool, we will be back to working on this and trying more experiments soon
I love your videos, but I’m just here to plug myself in the haters corner so…your you’re you a ding dong…
Did it work? 🤣 keep up the good work brotha!
Also, GEAUX TIGERS.
LMAO... your a meany head!
@@SendItJonBoats 🤣
Keep having fun brother, tinkering is the fun part 👊
Thanks bud. The exhaust sounds amazing! You are a genius!
The bird bath guy was great!
That dude had me cracking up for hours!
Man it's like watching mad scientists at work keep it up
Great video. Keep them coming. What about extending the float pods up vertical and meeting flush with the side of the boat? Also maybe have the top of the float pod be more forward of the bottom…..kinda like the rack is on the front of the boat.
Makes sense. Once I get back in the shop and can do some welding we will see what happens.
The first idea is what to try.....I see it plowing water with the front of the pod....
Make it longer and make the angle gradual....like a lift plane. And send it!!!!
Maybe a bilge pump? 😂
10-4 rubber ducky, seems that is what most people want to see so far. Be back soon with an update video.
1)Keep the side mount float pods and adjust the angle of attack to eliminate drag. You may gain stability but the more surface area touching the water the more drag I believe you will have reducing speed.
2)If you want more speed then eliminate the side pods.
IMO this project seems to be about speed so option 2 and all the dangers it involves is the way to SEND IT! (You might want a life jacket also! lol)
Life jacket will be on next time. I want speed but I am having a good time trying out these side pods and experimenting. We shall see what the comments say after a few weeks and come up with a plan of attack.
OR FINS ÒN THE RUDDER, DOWN A LITTLE IN THE FRONT OF THE RUDDER..IT MIGHT JUST HELP KEEP in the water.. 😮😮😅
The "float pods" you are looking to achieve need to be an extension of the side gunnels from transom to at least where the dead rise starts and installed with reverse chine below the water line.
Think inflatable RIB style boat but made of aluminum with flat angles instead of a round collar around the boat.
What you did here was just add a combination of flat faced pods / pontoons to the rear of the boat. That won't do much for stability.
The rest of the boat has way too much leverage advantage.
Very good idea.... now I need to get to welding!!!
Scooter! Scooter! Scooter! Gotta love em right! I mean who else has nothing better to do than hate? Why it’s a scooter!
Well if I lived in my parents basement and had nothing better to do then I guess i would troll the interwebs too lol
Extend the tops of the pods about 10-12” and do a hard taper to the bottom
This should cut the water and get you up on plane faster
This was what I was thinking. With the top having a plow concave to roll the wave away from the boat.
good idea, I think that will help alot. We shall see.
Great point... that may help alot. I got to do something because this boat is just way too slow.
@@SendItJonBoats
Hey let me get a beer or twelve in me and we’ll have you passing jet skis
@@thomaswilson9792 Yee Yee!!!!
Maybe retractable floats. While cruising they are behind the transom and when fishing or hunting you pull them out on a rail or on a hinge to the sides.
Nit a bad idea. Might have to try that sometime.
I would extend the pods forward and cut it at about a 10 or 15 degree angle from front to back to keep the wake closer to the back of the boat and cut it about about a 22.5 or 45 degree angle from top to bottom so it would help create lift it on plane better. It would look like a really odd compound miter cut.
makes sense, and that would probably work well. We shall see.
I think if you tapered the side pods in towards the hull the water would flow under the the pods and help you plane out.
just subscribed great channel............Frankie J
Thanks bud. I will be trying again soon and see what we come up with.
Having not run a long tail I hesitate to comment on what will or will not work. Yet.... here I am. Is the idea to have the prop push from the wake? It seems the stern shape will locate the wake for the prop to push from. Would a tapered stern, shaped like a cigar work better creating a taller more defined point for the prop to push from? Three roaster tails are different but it seems the pods are a fail. Good try but you may be chasing your tail trying to make it work. Then again ..... what do I know. Really enjoy watching someone try different things then work through the problems. Geaux Tigers
The ideal situation is to have the prop riding right in the crest of the wake, where both wakes meet. I think most of our issue is the pods slowing us down, but we are going to keep experimenting and see if we can make something work.
Streamlining the sponsors and ad a turn skeg about 4=6 inches in front of the thrust point. As you go faster the hull loses traction til it finally becomes a kite. The skeg will force the bow down and stop the hull from dog-walking from prop torque.
Excellent. I'd get rid of those side pods, lots of drag. You might want to look into a shaft extension.
Thanks for the vote... seems we got a 50/50 split of cut them off verses make modifications.
I like the side pod experimentation. I'd vote extending it to the front of the boat and also extending the taper on the back. This is based on my career as an armchair youtube commenter.
LMAO... so basically you are youtube interweb certified to make geometrical physics decisions on water vessel engineering projects? Sounds like a winner to me, lets do it!
And above like where the fin put the Tow together and beef them both up!.
yup
I’m pretty sure those pods should never be touching the water when on plane, and if it does the The drag that it would create would make your boat turn even more in the direction that you’re going, if not pulling it even harder into the water, Meaning when your boat is leaning on the left turn the drag would be so much it will almost stop your boat.
Also the boat is so short and narrow that when you’re standing in the middle and you try to turn your boat seems to be reacting dramatically to the imbalance from the side to side, Making it want to tilt Severely on a turn.
basically it’s too tipsy with your big butt standing in the middle of it, you need to get down to keep a low center of gravity to keep the boat from overreacting because it’s so narrow.
Hopefully that makes some kind of sense for you. 👊
So yes first off get rid of the side pods they are no good to you especially on a turn, And the rear pod I would raise up 2 inches so it doesn’t touch when you’re on plane giving you more speed and better control, Because really those rear pods are just for more flotation when you’re sitting still.
Because if you look at many of your newer bass boats the layout of the boat will be 20 feet but the actual hall may be only 19 and that’s called a step hall which basically gets more boat out of the water and better top and speed.
Good luck guys.
Makes perfect sense, and I did not even think about the turning part of it. I can put another handle on it and sit down and see if that helps the stability any. I am so used to standing I did not even think about that. Great ideas
Just around the river bend 🤣🤣🤣🤣
LOL, more like 10 miles of river bends.... it was a long long paddle back.
11:57 - Send It Cleat Hitch Knot edition.
Do what you suggested, to give yourself more lift at back end. I would love to see how it handles after that. I did notice that the leading edge of the side pod at the attachment point to the boat was angled the wrong way, it was looking like it was digging in. So do it and then SEND IT!!!
Did you do it? Please send link to video. Thank you.
Yeah I think so too, I will be working on this again soon and see what we can come up with,
Can you put optional lock settings on the mud motor to keep the prop in the water?
Make it like a traditional motor where it’s “locked in place” or “free to bounce - river style” as an option for WOT runs where you know the water.
They don't have a lock setting but I am sure you could make one with some creativity and a welder
I like those little side pods but have you ever thought of adding a similar pod down the length of the side for extra floatation all the way around? Like pontoons
Yes I have, did not work as planned. But we are going to play around with these some more and see how it goes.
If you’re that dedicated to side pods go the entire length of the boat and follow the rake of the bow Essentially making a wider hull for more stability.
I would ditch the pods and make it as scary as possible.
Along with that you can actually cut a wide U out of the rear float pod and then cut the transom down lower giving you a better angle for the prop to ride in the water hopefully keeping it from wanting to pop up.
Agreed
Thanks soberbrent, looks like we got a 50/50 split of what people want to see. I will give it a few weeks and tally up all the responses. Great ideas though, appreciate the input.
too funny...luv your sense of humor
Thank you, glad you are enjoying the videos.
I know this is a year old but......
Cut the side pods forward so they are on the main hull and maybe increase their length. Also, shape the fronts to push water down...as you alluded to.
Cool project.
Thanks for the input, and yes I think that is what we are going to try. I was actually out looking at the boat today and thought about getting back on that project soon.
Thanks for the content. What welder were you using in those highlights?? Please
I believe Frankie uses a Hobart, but I could be wrong. I personally use a Primeweld.
You could take and extend the pods forward. Also look into bolt on cavitation plates or the cavitation tabs that weld onto the skeg. this would help from the prop jumping out of the water
Good idea, seems like a lot of folks want me to keep messing with them.
@@SendItJonBoats I’ve got a cavitation plate for a mud skipper if you’d like to try it. It was too big for my 6.5
@@SendItJonBoats It just u bolts to the outside of the shaft
@@jackwilliams8786 I got a mud skipper cavitation plate as well to play with. I will eventually do a video on it.
I’m going to be building a set of side pods but they will be very gradually sloping towards the front about 4-5ft forward of the transom
Cool. Let me know how it works
Wonder if a single adjustable Trim tab centered would help draw the wake towards the boat? It'd definitely help push the bow down.
A few people have recommended trim tabs. that might be something to explore in a future video
awesome, maybe if the pods were just an inch higher off the bottom of the boat too rather than being flush. The water would travel better to the back and reduce the surface area of the pad a bit. would love to see that boat fly.
WE are going to mess around with it some more and see what we can do.
What if you put a fin or spoiler in front of the perpler to hold it down at higher speed and not as much at slower speed?? Might be worth a try. A little fiberglass or aluminum?.
yup, tried that before. It dont always work.
Another question, does the change in wake and turbulence affect fish finder transducers.
It can, they need to be under the surface of the water and no get any bubbles on the bottom in order to work correctly.
The only thing this video needed was Cleetus McFarland in a lab coat with a clip board, nodding, writing down results, and saying "hmmm interesting maybe more turbo and nitrous"
I hope someday I can get big enough to do a video with Cletus. That will be fun
@@SendItJonBoats until then you can just play Cleetus as a character.
@@chrisj2713 LOL
I would do the mods. It’s just a bit more fun, you can always take them off.
Don’t be a quitter. Lmao
quitting is for quitters.... and no body likes a quitter! LOL
Don't waste your time with scooters, you will encounter people with the IQ of an onion no matter what you say or do. We enjoy your videos so please disregard the scooters and keep the videos coming 👍
LMAO... IQ of an onion, I am going to use that! LOL.
I love giving the haters some hell!
@@SendItJonBoats Haters will always be around, they are usually the people that want to challenge knowledge, expertise and experience. We need to have a Scooter Roast some day. 😂👍. Some scooters are a few French fries short of a McDonald's happy meal.
@@giorgioskaraiskakis9548 lololol ok, comment made my day! Thank you!
I don’t know anything about mud motors But is it possible to place little side fins on the fin to help pull the propeller under water I mean you have to trail and error to see what angle works best. just idea like the channel
Yup I have some of those and may have to use them to get it to work
Definitely need to angle/taper the front face, left and right sides of the pod. The flat faces are causing a ton of drag. Try to match the dead rise of the bow of the boat. Doing that will help it plain out faster too! Otherwise awesome stuff!
Thanks Iantz86, got your vote. Looks like we are about 50/50 split on what folks want to see. May have to try a mod.
@@SendItJonBoats awesome. Looking forward to it! Love the content!
Need to build a transom mount on the. Hunt deck move the motor back
What’s up man , what fuel pump did you go to when you replaced the bad one ?
I got some no name brand off amazon for 20 bucks. 2-4 psi. It works fine. The expensive edelbrock one is the one that burnt up on me.
The pods you cut off, open them up and weld them to the sides like a shield to deflect the water from coming in the boat. Also have you tried to bend the scade to keep the prop in the water? Look at the video it doesn't look like you are fight with the motor but I would try it.
Yeah we were about to bend the skeg and then we got rained on, bad storm rolled in right as we were getting it dialed in. We will be back out soon.
Question...do you know someone who can and will build custom float pods? I live in GA. Thank you
Build a transom on the back or close to the back of that float pod and mount your engine back there the your seat would be usable and it wouldn’t walk because your prop would be far enough back to sit where the wakes meet in the middle
It would be a lot of surgery to frame in a transom on the back, but we may look into that as this build progresses.
So what's exactly inside float pods? Like a certain type of foam or what?
Nothing, just air. The closed pod is what makes the floatation. Foam won't help.
@@SendItJonBoats Oh so it's a closed box on all sides? Thanks for replying by the way. Super helpful. :D
I think this thought process has merits, have you thought about Aircraft carrier style side pods.
Never seen pods on a aircraft carrier, but now I am going to go look.
@@SendItJonBoats they are “blisters” developed in the early 1940’s as anti-torpedo counter measures. They can be filled and drained via pumps to assist in ballast during ruff weather (NOT a navy vet) I’m a huge WWII enthusiast, if you google any US A/C carrier, search images, and look at a profile photo at the waterline, you should see what I’m referring too.
Anyway. Yee-yee and keep scooter on the bank
Extend pods, watch video and see where the water is making contact at plane, extend pods toward front bow of boat where the water is cut at plane
looking at video, extend to about first seat or about where your left foot rest as you pilot
seems pods would perform better if they aren't apart of cutting the water
yes sir, great idea. That seems to be what everyone wants to see is going further forward.
What is that extended aluminum pod directly welded to the transom? Not the side pods.
Some people call it a hunt deck, on this boat it is really just a big pod
@@SendItJonBoats I appreciate the response. Thank you.
G'day great video and music mate. Just a idea would Stabilizer fins work on your boat. I am just asking because i don't know much about boats like this.
Thanks bud. No the fin wouldnt do much on these boats, they help more on v hull boats.
@@SendItJonBoats ok cool thanks for the feedback mate. Now I know 😁👍
Add a "Foil" to it to keep the prop at the proper depth . ?
we were about to try that then we got rained out. Next time I think we will have it dialed in.
Extend half way up the boat and slowly taper in. But also have flare so water spray goes away from boat.
good idea. We are going to try it.
The transom on my jon boat is for a long shaft outboard so it’s a lot taller than a normal jon boat I wonder how a long tail would do on it
if its less than 21 inches tall then it should be fine, just need to use a 100 inch shaft.
Check out lifting strakes
Nice, I am going to take a look at that and see if I can make something work like that.
So I'm thinking some float wings....pods on the front of the boat. Idea being when on plain they will be completely out of the water, but when you allow and settle down, you will have wider platform for stability. Like a hydroplane boat.
Also. I like first idea, extend side pods forward. Also maybe weld a jackplate/mount and move the motor bad on the back of the pod. But would require more weight in the front if the boat. Like a beer cooler full to the brim lol.
Thats not a bad idea
Beer is the nectar of the gods.... I think we can manage that! LOL
@@SendItJonBoats your gonna need that nectar to follow through with any of my ideas, lol!
@@feellnfroggy The nectar is to blame for most of my great ideas
Man that sucks. Prop bounces out of the water. Cavitation :)
Take them off! Have Frankie weld a plate or go see Nate again. Roll Tide
Take that tide rolling crap and go sit on a cactus... we are all tired of seeing yall win! BORING! LOL
Geaux Tigers... maybe next year LMAO
@@SendItJonBoats shit we’re have a struggle win now. I forgot what that feels like lol
Where did you get the grab bar in this boat?
Cavitation plate.... made to keep the prop down. Try it out 😑
We did... it sucked. I will have a review video on bolt on cavitation plate once I get more time to play with it.
MORE VIDEOS! haha
Mo' Videos comin soon!
reverse gull wing fin ,face down taper too big square sect. wings no bigger 6 inchby 12
Thanks.
Where is the big boat with the built 670
It's coming. I am almost done with the interior of the 16 footer.
Row, row, row your boat gently down the steam... throw'd his motor overboard as he ranted, raved and screamed.
LMAO.... that is about how I felt every time that motor gave me problems.
If the side pods are going to be touching the water and the bow is going to be high, then the angle of the front of the pods needs to be steep enough that it will shove water under them.
Right now the front of the pods are straight up and down while the boat is on the trailer. However, that is not how the boat sits in the water. Put the boat in the water and use a level and some washers to figure out the angle of the boat in the water.
This video will explain what I mean.
th-cam.com/video/GrXTSodu5eQ/w-d-xo.html
Now park your boat and use the jack to get the boat at the same angle as it rides in the water. You'll see the front of your pods is at an angle that forces water over the sidepods, not under them. Using a plumb, figure out where perpendicular is on the front of the pod and then go another 4 or so inches back from that. Cut it off from to current top front of the pod to the new mark and weld a new plate on.
Now the front of the pod will shove water under, rather than over the pod.
Hot dang that is a lot of scientifical math! Great idea though, now I am interested to try that out.
@@SendItJonBoats I'm interested to see how it turns out.
Oddly enough, my daughter experienced something similar while tubing. She let her feet hang in the water before we took off. As soon as we started moving the water was forced up her legs and into her face while the tube was shoved under. That was at less than 5 mph.
@@gsh341 Yup, that is about exactly what was happening. I am going to extend them forward and get a better angle on them to force water underneath.
Not to make a silly suggestion, they make these things called an outboard motor. No muss, no fuss. . . Just saying . . . .
Outboards are for normal people. I am crazy, I want mud motors.
1st idea
Thanks Jeff. We will see after a week or so what everyone wants.
You need to weld a “whale tail” on the bottom of that fin by the prop. Could pull the prop down
Good idea. I got the bolt on ones from Beaver Dam, I will try those out next time we go testing... and hopefully we wont get rained out.
Even on the skeg my buddy and others have welded at the middle of the skeg 2-3" wide by like 4-6" long tabs that you weld the first inch or so and the back part you leave un welded so you can bend to the desired angle to help with the cavitation
@@williamkirkland5695 I got a set of bolt on tabs if I end up needing them.
you need a cavitation plate
Tried it, made it even worse. I will do a review video on the cavitation plate once I get some more time to play with it.
Oh ya get a bilge pump
it will eventually have one, right now we are just testing stuff to see if we can get it working or not.
My vote is to get rid of the side pods
10-4... they may eventually be coming off regardless.
Get rid of the side pods cause I have a small boat I want to do kinda the same exact thing for it I was thinking of just the back platform and have the motor mounted as far back as it can go example mount it to the back of the platform instead of the transom of the boat
Yeah we are going to keep playing around with it and see what works,
can you say.. "weld a cavitation plate on the mud motor".......... ?
not on a longtail, the thai styles are not meant to run like that. I have tried it
keep the pod couture with the boat. looks to create a whole lot of unnecessary drag.
Yeah it is dragging bad. I think we are going to extend them forward and make them angled, that is what everyone wants to see.
All the long tail boats are very narrow
Yeah they are... may have to end up hacking them off to get the speed I want.
Send it !! 👉 🗡️ 🦄 ⚔️👍😁
LMAO!
Cut them off entirely, you’ll notice a significant difference in performance.
10-4 thanks Colton. We will give it a few weeks and see what everyone says. Only thing I hate about that boat is how sketchy it is without the pods. But I may have to just get over it and cut them off if thats what everyone wants to see.
@@SendItJonBoats look forward to seeing what you end up doing, might see you out on Jackson some day, I use that ramp a pretty good bit. Just gotta wait for gatortrax to finish building my new boat!
@@coltonpowers1830 That ramp sucks but it is close to the house. Bring that gatortrax down so i can touch it
Put an angle on the pods
Give it to me... After you paint it... Include mud motor.
how about no.
Those side pods are doing nothing but make that boat 10x worse and it will never drive right with them
You are probably right... but we gonna try one more time and see what happens. Aint no better experience than messing stuff up and trying again.
The engineering on those cheap mud motor kits is non existent.
They come from thailand... right next to the land of eggrolls and sweet sour chicken. I don't expect them to be precision made. But they are cheap and fun to play with.
@@SendItJonBoats reminds me of a girl I knew🤔 think I'll give her a call
@@randyb3135 🤣
id say cut the side pods off
That may be happening eventually
Next time.................... Stock HONDA!
like a 2.4L vtec? That would be fun.
I cringe every time I see someone use a crescent wrench as a hammer...
Them big crescent wrenches make great hammers! LOL
It’s not a crescent wrench it’s called a fixall. 🤣
It's one of the original multi-tools.