Handy hint for anyone threading spokes: use some lubricant (I use regular cuttting oil) - you'll form better threads and your rollers will last longer.
Thank you very much!! I work on this project a bit every week. Shouldn't take too log to have the next version with new tilting mechanism and steering. The next version that I show will be a system that works great.
Thanks for this nice build and video, you make it look so easy. You may want to use a eight bolts torquing sequence to ensure an even seating of the flange and some thread locking compound. Keep on the good work!
Wheels with straight pull spokes can not handle torsional forces, like from disc brakes. For sidewise forces you want as much angle on the spokes as possible, therefore they should go through the holes on the opposite side of the rim. For cargo you need strong wheels, built like those of a BMX.
I think that 20 spokes aren't enaugh for heavy dute wheels.. and for disk brakes i think it's better have laced spokes. Also for give a help to those homemade composite hubs that, excuse me, doesn't look so strong. But i appreciate your work :-) Happy easter
Totally agree on the spokes. I did it with a 20 spoke rim because this was the easiest way for me to test that this sort of hub would work. About the plastic parts - also totally agree. For now, just testing. The final parts will be all metal. Thank you for the notes! And Happy Easter!
Interesting video with many alternative solutions. Is there a specific reason why you didn't cross the spokes? As I understand it makes for a stronger wheel, which is good for a cargo bike
Hi there, that's a very good point! And you are correct. This is not the strongest wheel spoking geometry. I used a rim with 20 spokes and radial geometry only for the reason of being simpler which would help me validating the custom hubs. I already have on the horizon a stronger wheel;)
@@pedro-neves The spokes are thin and not the strongest either. For strength I would never choose an aluminum rim either, good old steel rims for cargo. What is the size and weight target for your bike? 200 Kg, 300, 400 Kg load?
@@perpetual4958, ya, I think 200 kg would already be good. but I agree that I need a stronger wheel. This one is only 20 spoke. I already have a set of rims to make a next version;)
An IBC or pallet hauler would be so amazing;-). Why the custom hub@@pedro-neves ? I guess free 20 or 24 inch wheels can be had for free or next to nothing, perhaps even with steel rims, 24" is probably stronger as they are designed for 10 year olds not 5 year olds.
@@perpetual4958- there are mostly two reason for designing the hub: 1) I was interested in making a design as similar to a car as possible (for the exercise of it). 2) Bicycle hubs that are not the most common are incredibly expensive. This make it a great candidate for a new, cheaper design.
Great observation! The bearings are in the hubs (like in a car) - checkout the full build to see how the hubs work: th-cam.com/video/jTw_eZNCQtM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9xBUV9Z5KlsE2DsZ
Would you consider not having tilt. Does the front wheel tilting worth building? Would the bike work with out, it? I love in Canada and we have mean streets here. Ya people think people who ride are poor(generally speaking, any person pulling or carting any load, well ur looked as homeless. But there are bicycle enthusiasts, we need and an all terrain power hauler, bike, to get up and over crubs because bike lanes are inconsistent. I was thinking of ur type of design (shorter witha trailer) Why do u want the load ahead of u?❤
Hi there! In regards to the tilting mechanism - I have tried with a fixed system and tilting. With the tilting mechanism it feels more like riding a bike whilst if it's fixed it feels like riding a quad. Personally I prefer how bikes ride. In regards to the cargo being in the front, for stability of the vehicle, most of the mass should be between the wheels and I think a rear wheel distanced from the rider wouldn't be great to ride. The second reason is that some people carry kids in the cargo bay and it feels safer if the rider can see them.
Thanks much appreciate. So cool hey being able to build so readily and to talk around the world ❤. My ur bicycle heart b fantastically uplifted to a slightly downhill ride to home were u have loves of love from ur family and friends. And it the weather u love
@@Billy-cs4cc , it's definitely designed for tilting because, in my opinion, it creates a more agile ride. But the wheels could work on both a tilting or non-tilting design.
They are still going!;) But I'm already thinking of the next version. I had some comments on this video stating that the radial spokes are not the best configuration, and I agree. Regarding motorizing - once I am happy with the mechanical build (which I'm still working on), I will start designing and building a drive unit in the middle (attached to the pedals).
@@pedro-neves yeah the radial spokes stood out to me too, but you see the same on classic cars. it depends on your riding style whether this will lead to premature hub flange failure. if you brake in an endo all the time like you're riding a downhil bike it might, but i personally ride the city/cargo bike the way i would drive a limousine; not to upset the cargo. i've seen this kind of construction on 90's mountain bike hubs where there was only the flanges out of aluminium, and the middle was a transparent plastic tube with a toy fish inside. it was really cool stuff.
@@markifi that sounds like a very cool hub indeed;) Ya, it's interesting how you can actually have a plastic tube with metal flanges. But I forgot to say in my last comment: I also want to reduce the "scrub radius". This can be done via multiple ways but I would like to have the steering pivot closer to the wheel center. I think the steering will behave better. Thank you for the kind comments and inspiration!
@@choiioklam8480 , ya, I agree that it makes sense. Then you don't need another mechanism for resting the trike. I will consider a lock for the tilting mechanism to keep the trike straight when parked. Thank you for the suggestion!
Those aren't very strong wheels; only 20 spokes and you used a radial lacing pattern. A typical 20" wheel, such as a BMX wheel, has 36 spokes (14-gauge), and 3-cross lacing (48-spoke BMX wheels are common too for added strength, with 3- or 4-cross lacing). Cross lacing is stronger than radial lacing, and it's especially important if using disk brakes like you plan to do: "Disk brakes apply a rotational force between the hub and rim so a crossed spoke pattern is essential to resist this." Those rolled threads you did didn't look deep enough either; could barely even see any threads at all. Maybe they just didn't show up well on camera, but if they aren't deep enough that makes your already weak wheels even weaker, because the spokes could pull free of the nipples.
That's true and it's a very good point. To be honest, I used a 20 spoke wheel in a radial pattern just because it's the easiest way of lacing and I wanted to prove that this hub works. Now that I know it works, the next wheel will have more spokes and cross lacing.
Ah, nice drawing on the comment!;) and thank you for the feedback. Ya, I agree that I should add a little bit of angle for when there's weight in the cargo bay to keep it straight.
I think what he's saying is the steering pivot should line up with the tyre contact patch, otherwise you get bump steer. Also add some caster so the steering tends to self centre.
someone is trying to copy the wheel, someone is inventing it .. there weren’t even these attempts radial lacing does not work with disc or roller brakes.
Handy hint for anyone threading spokes: use some lubricant (I use regular cuttting oil) - you'll form better threads and your rollers will last longer.
Thank you for that! Ya, I threaded the pokes just dry... Now that you mention it I feel like that was not the best for sure...
I wish the complete front end was available to purchase as a unit .
Thank you for saying that;) I'm trying to get it better and better. Maybe one day it will be good enough to be a product.
Very interesting project! Looking forward to seeing the new steering, suspension and to see and hear how it rides!
Thank you very much!! I work on this project a bit every week. Shouldn't take too log to have the next version with new tilting mechanism and steering. The next version that I show will be a system that works great.
Я не понимаю. Если можно по русски?
I love the result! And your slow pace of talking is somewhat relaxing btw
Thank you for the very kind words ;)
brilliant concept for a DIY wheel hub
Thank you very much! I'm working on a new wheel design though;) Will be even better;)
Cheers!
Thanks for this nice build and video, you make it look so easy. You may want to use a eight bolts torquing sequence to ensure an even seating of the flange and some thread locking compound. Keep on the good work!
Thank you for the suggestions, they are very valuable! And for the kind words ;)
Wheels with straight pull spokes can not handle torsional forces, like from disc brakes. For sidewise forces you want as much angle on the spokes as possible, therefore they should go through the holes on the opposite side of the rim. For cargo you need strong wheels, built like those of a BMX.
I agree! I already have new rims for 32 spokes and will design new hubs as well.
BMX is 40 spokes, 4 cross.@@pedro-neves
This arrangement can be the basis of a tandem trike, with a recumbent pedaler in front.
I agree. I took some inspiration from recumbent designs.
I do not think a tandem like that exists.@@pedro-neves
I think that 20 spokes aren't enaugh for heavy dute wheels.. and for disk brakes i think it's better have laced spokes. Also for give a help to those homemade composite hubs that, excuse me, doesn't look so strong. But i appreciate your work :-) Happy easter
P.S.: probably also the rims, have to be double walled...
Totally agree on the spokes. I did it with a 20 spoke rim because this was the easiest way for me to test that this sort of hub would work. About the plastic parts - also totally agree. For now, just testing. The final parts will be all metal. Thank you for the notes! And Happy Easter!
Very informative and interesting project thanks for sharing 👍👍👍👍
Теперь осталось добавить кабину 2 метра длинной и получится необычный велокемпер.
Haha;) Well, I do love camping;)
Wicked mod! I’m inspired to do it too.
Very clean!👏👍
Interesting video with many alternative solutions. Is there a specific reason why you didn't cross the spokes? As I understand it makes for a stronger wheel, which is good for a cargo bike
Hi there, that's a very good point! And you are correct. This is not the strongest wheel spoking geometry. I used a rim with 20 spokes and radial geometry only for the reason of being simpler which would help me validating the custom hubs. I already have on the horizon a stronger wheel;)
@@pedro-neves The spokes are thin and not the strongest either. For strength I would never choose an aluminum rim either, good old steel rims for cargo. What is the size and weight target for your bike? 200 Kg, 300, 400 Kg load?
@@perpetual4958, ya, I think 200 kg would already be good. but I agree that I need a stronger wheel. This one is only 20 spoke. I already have a set of rims to make a next version;)
An IBC or pallet hauler would be so amazing;-). Why the custom hub@@pedro-neves ? I guess free 20 or 24 inch wheels can be had for free or next to nothing, perhaps even with steel rims, 24" is probably stronger as they are designed for 10 year olds not 5 year olds.
@@perpetual4958- there are mostly two reason for designing the hub: 1) I was interested in making a design as similar to a car as possible (for the exercise of it). 2) Bicycle hubs that are not the most common are incredibly expensive. This make it a great candidate for a new, cheaper design.
fun and useful thankyou.
Thank you!
where do bearings reside in this design?
Great observation! The bearings are in the hubs (like in a car) - checkout the full build to see how the hubs work: th-cam.com/video/jTw_eZNCQtM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9xBUV9Z5KlsE2DsZ
Would you consider not having tilt. Does the front wheel tilting worth building? Would the bike work with out, it? I love in Canada and we have mean streets here. Ya people think people who ride are poor(generally speaking, any person pulling or carting any load, well ur looked as homeless. But there are bicycle enthusiasts, we need and an all terrain power hauler, bike, to get up and over crubs because bike lanes are inconsistent. I was thinking of ur type of design (shorter witha trailer) Why do u want the load ahead of u?❤
Hi there! In regards to the tilting mechanism - I have tried with a fixed system and tilting. With the tilting mechanism it feels more like riding a bike whilst if it's fixed it feels like riding a quad. Personally I prefer how bikes ride.
In regards to the cargo being in the front, for stability of the vehicle, most of the mass should be between the wheels and I think a rear wheel distanced from the rider wouldn't be great to ride. The second reason is that some people carry kids in the cargo bay and it feels safer if the rider can see them.
Thanks much appreciate. So cool hey being able to build so readily and to talk around the world ❤. My ur bicycle heart b fantastically uplifted to a slightly downhill ride to home were u have loves of love from ur family and friends. And it the weather u love
Not having tilt fs up the whole point of this build?
@@Billy-cs4cc , it's definitely designed for tilting because, in my opinion, it creates a more agile ride. But the wheels could work on both a tilting or non-tilting design.
how is it holding up? have you thought of motorising them?
They are still going!;) But I'm already thinking of the next version. I had some comments on this video stating that the radial spokes are not the best configuration, and I agree.
Regarding motorizing - once I am happy with the mechanical build (which I'm still working on), I will start designing and building a drive unit in the middle (attached to the pedals).
@@pedro-neves yeah the radial spokes stood out to me too, but you see the same on classic cars. it depends on your riding style whether this will lead to premature hub flange failure. if you brake in an endo all the time like you're riding a downhil bike it might, but i personally ride the city/cargo bike the way i would drive a limousine; not to upset the cargo. i've seen this kind of construction on 90's mountain bike hubs where there was only the flanges out of aluminium, and the middle was a transparent plastic tube with a toy fish inside. it was really cool stuff.
@@markifi that sounds like a very cool hub indeed;) Ya, it's interesting how you can actually have a plastic tube with metal flanges. But I forgot to say in my last comment: I also want to reduce the "scrub radius". This can be done via multiple ways but I would like to have the steering pivot closer to the wheel center. I think the steering will behave better. Thank you for the kind comments and inspiration!
is it can standing when stop riding
Good question. Not in this version. Because of the tilting mechanism, it will fall, like a bike.
@@pedro-neves thanks for responded , possible it can ? on coming version :-)
@@choiioklam8480 , ya, I agree that it makes sense. Then you don't need another mechanism for resting the trike. I will consider a lock for the tilting mechanism to keep the trike straight when parked. Thank you for the suggestion!
So cool❤
Nouveautés Specialized ?
Hello, the wheels were made specifically to fit in this trike design. I hope this answers your question.
Those aren't very strong wheels; only 20 spokes and you used a radial lacing pattern. A typical 20" wheel, such as a BMX wheel, has 36 spokes (14-gauge), and 3-cross lacing (48-spoke BMX wheels are common too for added strength, with 3- or 4-cross lacing). Cross lacing is stronger than radial lacing, and it's especially important if using disk brakes like you plan to do:
"Disk brakes apply a rotational force between the hub and rim so a crossed spoke pattern is essential to resist this."
Those rolled threads you did didn't look deep enough either; could barely even see any threads at all. Maybe they just didn't show up well on camera, but if they aren't deep enough that makes your already weak wheels even weaker, because the spokes could pull free of the nipples.
That's true and it's a very good point. To be honest, I used a 20 spoke wheel in a radial pattern just because it's the easiest way of lacing and I wanted to prove that this hub works. Now that I know it works, the next wheel will have more spokes and cross lacing.
it looks ok, but seems like its tough to keep the bike straight
That's true. The steering has a lot of play. For the next version, the suspension, tilting mechanism and steering should be pretty good.
This is not a recumbent trike. It`s a tricycle and that`s it.
You're right actually. I just changed the title. Thank you for the comment.
--/\-- need to angle the spindles , keeps the steering tight
Ah, nice drawing on the comment!;) and thank you for the feedback. Ya, I agree that I should add a little bit of angle for when there's weight in the cargo bay to keep it straight.
I think what he's saying is the steering pivot should line up with the tyre contact patch, otherwise you get bump steer. Also add some caster so the steering tends to self centre.
WHEN WILL ARRIVED TO MALAYSIA 😂
Hehe, it's up to you yo make it;)
Hi Pedro, I just sent you an E-mail. Very interested in the project.
Thanks Thomas! Happy to continue over email.
heavy breathing
Hehe, yes, I noticed that too.
someone is trying to copy the wheel, someone is inventing it .. there weren’t even these attempts
radial lacing does not work with disc or roller brakes.
Radial lacing is not the best certainly. Mostly, I was finding out if I can custom make a hub. The next wheel will be better;)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
Thank you for the tip! The effort for the next version goes to this topic!