I know this is some years older. I've done my fair share of automotive weld repairs. Bolt as much as you can to the mating surfaces to the broken piece weld as much as you can with its mates bolted on . This will provide the best fit going back together. I've learned this the hard way. You don't want air leaks and warped flanges.
I seem to recall that 5356 is frequently *not* recommended for parts that will see sustained temperatures above 150 deg F. It seems that 4043 is generally better for underhood parts, at least in this regard.
This is an old vid but for any new watchers you can see if it's aluminum or magnesium by wetting it with vinegar. Magnesium will react aluminum will not.
You mentioned getting rid of moisture with the pre heat of the aluminum. At a AWS meeting this last winter the topic was hydrogen cracking and they explained heating the material just opens the pores and drives the moisture in to the material.
The single red hose looks like a #17 air-cooled torch to me, so 160A is all he should attempt. I would bet he was running close to a meltdown at 200+ on this repair. I have a water-cooled CK FlexLoc torch and it has 3 hoses: black (gas), blue (water in), and red (cable & water out).
I can't wait to hear your review on the new Millermatic 215. I'm sure I could find a few things that could stump you. Some can't be really mailed to you.
I used one and I'm always going back to Miller's older machines. I owned a syncrowave 300 (aka the blue refrigerator) and it was the best welder I ever used.
How do you determine if its aluminum or magnesium? Both are non magnetic. Some older VW beetle crank cases are magnesium, some were aluminum. How to tell the difference, also, can you tig magnesium?
Any other set up spec on the welder for us, pps, hz sounded 130ish, modified wave, background amps, ar/he? Why would you run %70 balance when you guess the casting to be dirty, why not run 60/65, or is that where you found it doing best? Been struggling a bit myself with some dirty welding 1/4"al with a dynasty200. Thanks
hz = 120, no pulse, 100% argon. The cleaning action will vary a little bit. That is why we like to run a test bead before welding on the actual casting.
Pulse is related to amperage. For instance if you have your machine set at 100 amps and your pulse at 1 pps / 50% background current it will go from 100 amps to 50 amps and back to 100 amps every 1 second.
Next time you have to grind on aluminum have some bees wax and touch tthe turnin burr to the bees wax now and hhen. The bees wax will help to keep the aluminum from sticking to the burr. You will have to clean the bees wax from the al before welding.
love the content!!!dont listen to haters there jelious as all get out..your a real pro and am always picking up good habits from these vidoes..also love j leno and really cool you are in his shop sometimes..keep em comimg mr tig thanks😎
Good thing that u didn't use a good lens for the camera , even in cast that welding was useless. All I could see was bad stacks with no penetration , try using a Speedglas in future to show the actual truth
Kinda why I never liked Mr.Tig. I always felt like this dude would lie to your face about something. No way he uses that scrap alumi just to show him it’s not the machine. Get the setting dialed sure but we all know if the camera wasn’t on he’s fire away on the piece as soon as he got the setting right, not show him self his machine isn’t malfunctioning and that the casting is dirty. Even as a relatively “new” welding we all know castings are nasty af. Such a dumb excuse for a lesson to be “extra safe”. It’s like teaching someone to check every fire extinguisher and fire alarm in the warehouse each time you start to weld. No one does it and it’s a dumb thing to lie about. That’s another reason I love Bob and the guys, they tell it like it is honestly no BS.
I know this is some years older. I've done my fair share of automotive weld repairs. Bolt as much as you can to the mating surfaces to the broken piece weld as much as you can with its mates bolted on . This will provide the best fit going back together. I've learned this the hard way. You don't want air leaks and warped flanges.
I seem to recall that 5356 is frequently *not* recommended for parts that will see sustained temperatures above 150 deg F. It seems that 4043 is generally better for underhood parts, at least in this regard.
Pretty challenging project.!
I always feel like aluminum is the hot dog of metals. Always is made of junk 😂
This is an old vid but for any new watchers you can see if it's aluminum or magnesium by wetting it with vinegar. Magnesium will react aluminum will not.
You mentioned getting rid of moisture with the pre heat of the aluminum. At a AWS meeting this last winter the topic was hydrogen cracking and they explained heating the material just opens the pores and drives the moisture in to the material.
Que maquina usaste amigo?
Great topic nice job
hi how much amper used?
What machine are you using to weld with
How about a Keith black hemi crack in 2nd too rear main and the head surface
Thanks. I wonder how if you are still using your regular ck worldwide 17 flex torch and how it was coping with the extra amps, or was it a ck26?
The single red hose looks like a #17 air-cooled torch to me, so 160A is all he should attempt. I would bet he was running close to a meltdown at 200+ on this repair. I have a water-cooled CK FlexLoc torch and it has 3 hoses: black (gas), blue (water in), and red (cable & water out).
I can't wait to hear your review on the new Millermatic 215.
I'm sure I could find a few things that could stump you. Some can't be really mailed to you.
I used one and I'm always going back to Miller's older machines. I owned a syncrowave 300 (aka the blue refrigerator) and it was the best welder I ever used.
Rolando Crisostomo I love my syncrowave 250.... but I’m definitely eying a dynasty 280dx... but I’m keeping my syncrowave 😉😉😉
How do you determine if its aluminum or magnesium? Both are non magnetic. Some older VW beetle crank cases are magnesium, some were aluminum. How to tell the difference, also, can you tig magnesium?
Eccentric Smithy magnesium burns. Aluminium melts. Watch ave vidéo about it. Vinegar also reacts with magnesium castings.
Any other set up spec on the welder for us, pps, hz sounded 130ish, modified wave, background amps, ar/he? Why would you run %70 balance when you guess the casting to be dirty, why not run 60/65, or is that where you found it doing best? Been struggling a bit myself with some dirty welding 1/4"al with a dynasty200. Thanks
hz = 120, no pulse, 100% argon. The cleaning action will vary a little bit. That is why we like to run a test bead before welding on the actual casting.
Pulse is related to amperage. For instance if you have your machine set at 100 amps and your pulse at 1 pps / 50% background current it will go from 100 amps to 50 amps and back to 100 amps every 1 second.
I would like a good explanation on how the advance waveforms work on the newer welders like a couple of the Everlast welders I'm looking at.
Weld.com what shade number was the alloweld lens being used?
What amps are you running for this repair? Thanks
Next time you have to grind on aluminum have some bees wax and touch tthe turnin burr to the bees wax now and hhen.
The bees wax will help to keep the aluminum from sticking to the burr.
You will have to clean the bees wax from the al before welding.
WL20?
great video, what lens shade number did you guys use?
9
Thanks I really appreciate it
why not use A356 cast rod ?
Exactly, why not use it?
Electrodes WI20?
Would that be a 4043 silicon or manganese filler ?
Rolf Lindberg 4043 rod 5%silicon is perfect for cast aluminium the manganese is 5356
@@superenea86 you mean Magnesium, manganese is a completely different element used in steel [ looks up Hadfield steel]
love the content!!!dont listen to haters there jelious as all get out..your a real pro and am always picking up good habits from these vidoes..also love j leno and really cool you are in his shop sometimes..keep em comimg mr tig thanks😎
Did I miss out on the chance to join the email list and maybe get the welder, or am I just clicking the wrong spot?
no you didn't miss it. Here is a direct link: facebook.us8.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=61de27758b86f57c65ef0ac38&id=57f5f59540
Lye will dissolve the aluminum out of those carbide bits.
so will Muriatic Acid and purple power.....
सर मेरे यामाहा बाईक का. बीच का भाग में बडा छेद हो गया हैं.और क्लच कवर भी टूट गया है. आप एक ऐसा.विडिओ बनाइऐ.ताकी.मै देख के.वेलडिंग करवा सकु
Napotnik's is close to me
Oxidised aluminium is nothing like cast aluminium
Is it too late to win the welding machine? Lol
"I'm mister tig" sounds like a pick up line.
Rolando Crisostomo maybe he’s single? You should ask him on a date.
Good thing that u didn't use a good lens for the camera , even in cast that welding was useless. All I could see was bad stacks with no penetration , try using a Speedglas in future to show the actual truth
En español x fabor
Kinda why I never liked Mr.Tig. I always felt like this dude would lie to your face about something.
No way he uses that scrap alumi just to show him it’s not the machine. Get the setting dialed sure but we all know if the camera wasn’t on he’s fire away on the piece as soon as he got the setting right, not show him self his machine isn’t malfunctioning and that the casting is dirty. Even as a relatively “new” welding we all know castings are nasty af. Such a dumb excuse for a lesson to be “extra safe”. It’s like teaching someone to check every fire extinguisher and fire alarm in the warehouse each time you start to weld. No one does it and it’s a dumb thing to lie about.
That’s another reason I love Bob and the guys, they tell it like it is honestly no BS.
Mr. Tig ? You think your that damn good?
Well, it appears that he does! I've learned a LOT from his work, so I'm OK with it.