Notice at 6:06 the ear-to-table tack gave way... Needed a bit more tack. -Carbide Burr used in this video: amzn.to/4bGbBfC -Oscillating tool to cut welds: amzn.to/3xL6g8Z -TIG Welder used in this video: www.6061.com/primeweld.htm -All TIG welding/aluminum fabrication questions answered in detail at www.6061.com Thanks for watching
7:50 quick side note about the aluminum galling up in the flutes of cutters... A short soak in a lye bath will quickly eat out the aluminum buildup in the flutes of the cutter and have you back up and running with no risk of chipping or dulling the cutting edges like you can cause by trying to dig it out with a pick or other object. Just obviously take routine precautions due to dealing with Caustic Soda (i.e., Sodium hydroxide / Lye).
I like going up to a 1/8" tungsten for the real dirty stuff (so you can get a little more cleaning) and running an autogenous burnout pass. Great video man!
Love your videos man. You inspire me to get better at my aluminum welding. Chlorinated brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which turns into hydrochloric acid in your lungs. I had some years ago I let set a couple days before welding, it still off gassed & made me sick.
I like to do a bit of a tig 'wash' over cast part repairs before i add filler, do it at low amps can pull out a lot of the crap in the casting then wire brush it clean then go back in with the filler weld. Cast is also very hit an miss in quality. Awesome video aswell mate 🔥👌
Pro tip: If the carbide burr gets plugged with aluminum, use drain cleaner (sodium hydroxide) in warm water. Soak the carbide in, it will chemically remove the aluminum from the carbide. It will bubble as it eats away the aluminum.
Good repair with some excellent tips. One thing to keep in mind is that all castings will have porosity in them pretty much regardless of the alloy. However, A356, which is the most common die casting alloy, it is a 7% Si composition alloy which reduces the amount of porosity in the casting and increases fluidity for the pour. Lesser alloys will have lower amounts of Si which will lead to greater porosity. I will point out that the porosity that I am describing is on the microscopic scale and not the macroscopic scale as seen in the weld bead.
Also, if you don't clean up both sides, good enough it will pull all the contamination to the front or back of your weld Considering the item you have, great welding, mate
just welded up a tank my buddy brought me, he used WD on his cutoff wheel when he cut the sheet to size. it was a total PITA to get those edges clean before i tacked it up and i still had some crap in the puddle. i use bar soap on my wheels/flapper to prep AL and it seems to clean off easily with rubbing alchohol during prep. :shrug:
If you have a part that was sprayed with chlorinated brake cleaner, say it was an engine part, and you didn't know, would going over it with acetone in the normal way be sufficient to keep you safe?
I've seen some folks recommend testing cast aluminum parts before welding to make sure they are aluminum and not magnesium. I believe a bit of white vinegar on clean metal will cause magnesium to bubble but aluminum will not react. Have you encountered magnesium in your repairs or do you think this precaution is unnecessary?
15 or so years ago, I tried welding a dirt bike clutch cover. I assumed it was aluminum, but it became apparent very quickly that it was magnesium, using the simple tack weld test. There was zero fusion, and it immediately broke back apart. I suggested to the customer they should buy a new replacement cover.
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Notice at 6:06 the ear-to-table tack gave way... Needed a bit more tack.
-Carbide Burr used in this video: amzn.to/4bGbBfC
-Oscillating tool to cut welds: amzn.to/3xL6g8Z
-TIG Welder used in this video: www.6061.com/primeweld.htm
-All TIG welding/aluminum fabrication questions answered in detail at www.6061.com
Thanks for watching
Still love that you went from text only to better info and delivery then a discovery channel documentary. Love my tig button too. Thanks
Still very happy to hear you talk!!
His narration is a welcomed changed. Makes the presentation a lot more complete.
7:50 quick side note about the aluminum galling up in the flutes of cutters... A short soak in a lye bath will quickly eat out the aluminum buildup in the flutes of the cutter and have you back up and running with no risk of chipping or dulling the cutting edges like you can cause by trying to dig it out with a pick or other object. Just obviously take routine precautions due to dealing with Caustic Soda (i.e., Sodium hydroxide / Lye).
Great advice, I learned this in person a few years ago from my machinist friend:
www.dotymi.com/
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, time and the effort to produce a video for all of us to enjoy and learn!
I like going up to a 1/8" tungsten for the real dirty stuff (so you can get a little more cleaning) and running an autogenous burnout pass. Great video man!
Nice to see a professional at work Tig welding is an art more so on alloys and probably the best for all round welding processes.
Love your videos man. You inspire me to get better at my aluminum welding. Chlorinated brake cleaner creates phosgene gas, which turns into hydrochloric acid in your lungs. I had some years ago I let set a couple days before welding, it still off gassed & made me sick.
I really enjoy your newer content! Thank you
Great video, I’ve been using those same carbide burrs for years now and they are fantastic and a great way to get down to the good clean material.
I like to do a bit of a tig 'wash' over cast part repairs before i add filler, do it at low amps can pull out a lot of the crap in the casting then wire brush it clean then go back in with the filler weld. Cast is also very hit an miss in quality.
Awesome video aswell mate 🔥👌
Pro tip: If the carbide burr gets plugged with aluminum, use drain cleaner (sodium hydroxide) in warm water. Soak the carbide in, it will chemically remove the aluminum from the carbide. It will bubble as it eats away the aluminum.
Good repair with some excellent tips. One thing to keep in mind is that all castings will have porosity in them pretty much regardless of the alloy. However, A356, which is the most common die casting alloy, it is a 7% Si composition alloy which reduces the amount of porosity in the casting and increases fluidity for the pour. Lesser alloys will have lower amounts of Si which will lead to greater porosity. I will point out that the porosity that I am describing is on the microscopic scale and not the macroscopic scale as seen in the weld bead.
Your on the money, I use 4047 filler rods.
Thanks Aaron! Learned a ton on this one and of course, on everything else you post up!
vibratory saw for aluminum is brilliant. well done
Also, if you don't clean up both sides, good enough it will pull all the contamination to the front or back of your weld
Considering the item you have, great welding, mate
Great video sir
Such a helpful video, thank you!!
Thank you for the info!
Thanks For Sharing!
just welded up a tank my buddy brought me, he used WD on his cutoff wheel when he cut the sheet to size. it was a total PITA to get those edges clean before i tacked it up and i still had some crap in the puddle. i use bar soap on my wheels/flapper to prep AL and it seems to clean off easily with rubbing alchohol during prep. :shrug:
do you ever use milling blades on an angle grinder? I was an aluminum boat builder for years and that's all we used
Thank you.
If you have a part that was sprayed with chlorinated brake cleaner, say it was an engine part, and you didn't know, would going over it with acetone in the normal way be sufficient to keep you safe?
The video disappeared as I was watching it.. 😂 I’m glad it’s back.
I had to edit and re-upload it, clarifying to NOT use chlorinated brake cleaner
@@6061thanks for looking out for our safety! 👍
Sounds like you are changing the frequency a bit here and there? Tia
He speaks!!!!
Cool video. Thank you.
What about preheating?
Is this Betty Fing Crockers channel?
Low key switches hands on the fly.
Grest content as all your videos are. Only thing I noticed that bugged me was your oscilating blade was upside down.
I put in a new blade right before recording, and noticed it while editing the video. I knew someone would catch it...
He reuploaded this video to clarify to NOT USE chlorinated brake cleaner.
that is great.....as I pointed it out in the other video.....
@@ypaulbrown🍪
I've seen some folks recommend testing cast aluminum parts before welding to make sure they are aluminum and not magnesium. I believe a bit of white vinegar on clean metal will cause magnesium to bubble but aluminum will not react. Have you encountered magnesium in your repairs or do you think this precaution is unnecessary?
15 or so years ago, I tried welding a dirt bike clutch cover. I assumed it was aluminum, but it became apparent very quickly that it was magnesium, using the simple tack weld test. There was zero fusion, and it immediately broke back apart. I suggested to the customer they should buy a new replacement cover.
@@6061 good call.....glad you addressed the Brake Clean comment....Paul
Just curious why brakekleen and not acetone?
What type of filler ? ER4943 ?
👍
Am i crazy or did i watch this video this morning already? 🤔🤔🤔
Same.
Gases won't come out unless it's a sealed unit
That is just an air pocket
déjà vu
Have you had issues with trash in the puddle if the part has been sand blasted?
Yes.
G U R U😊
Left handed welders are weird.👍
You're weird. We're the only normal ones.
So strange hearing a voice 😂
It would be very interesting to know what your rates are.