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Okay I thinking on getting it, It got confusing on link to Amazon for thermostat, on description it said it uses AA batteries If you don't have C wire? I have a regular gas furnace ( no AC/ cooling system) nothing fancy So I can't use that thermostat that is required C wire hook up even on Amazon it takes AA battery? I want to get one that is password protected that nobody can turn on furnace and jack up the temp and I can shut off and turn on furnace while I'm at work or out of town.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the informative video, it was very helpful. I have a 4 zone system - three that can operate on their own, and the 4th is the main panel that controls the 4th zone but can also control the other three. Will this Honeywell system work in that set up? I do have the 5 wires required and had the Honeywell in another home and liked it. The plan is to replace the existing Honeywell's that are about 15 years old. Thanks! Jeff
Any updates on this? We recently had our HVAC replaced with what I Believe is Heat pump after years of a dead unit and I'm looking into a more advanced controller. What I'd Like to have is one where I can have AC from say 8a-8p and then have it switch to heat from 8p-8a during the warmer months, but during the colder months, have it be just on heat. I was also considering finding one that can adjust based on the exterior temperature, but I'm still pondering how important that would be.
After reading the confusing instructions to use a "C" wire, I ran a new 5 wire cable. Your explanation gave me the understanding and confidence to do this. Thank You Jeff for your down to earth explanations. It works like charm.
Thank you for posting this video! I was dreading changing my heating and cooling thermostat, but I didn’t want to spend over $400.00 to get someone to install it for me. I followed your video methodically and was able to complete this task by myself. Thank you for sharing your expertise with me and the uTube world!
52 seconds into your intro, I knew this was the best instruction about installing this unit. Cons were up front & this was invaluable & greatly appreciated! Thank you for biting the bullet, & troubleshooting it all, for the rest of us.
I watched this video, kept going back and forth to the thermostat and the computer. My house wire had six wires but I labled them like he said, put them where they belonged and it worked perfect. Great video, 10 out of 10
Thanks Jeff. I enjoyed your video because it was to the point. You wasted no time showing us useless stuff; I appreciated that. I have this (same) thermostat but today, it powered off at 02:30. When I awoke, I noticed it and haven't been able to reset it. I removed it, checked the breakers and replaced the faceplate, but it still didn't reconnect.
After doing some research on my wiring, this showing me the green wire (which I have on my system for power for "C" wire which I have) is the one to use for it, not only was I happy to learn that and I will check with meter to verify that my green wire has power on mine for certain, it also sold me on buying this exact unit. I appreciate all the helpful info and phone app workability which was also extremely helpful! THANKS MAN!
I'm really glad he took the time to make this video. But the first eight minutes could have been covered in 45 seconds. The second eight minutes was very useful
Hi Mr. Jeff, I just purchased the same Honeywell Wifi Thermostat here in Central FL.. and I'll install it tomorrow.. Our old HoneyWell is still trying to Connect for 3 days..6 yrs of great service.. but it was time for an Upgrade..! Thanks for the great helpful video.. Stay Safe .!
Thank you for this excellent video. I was afraid to do this by myself, but your instructions were perfect and saved me having to pay someone to do it for me. THANK YOU!!
Ha I just bought one of these yesterday and made this same mistake.lol Tried it without the C wire and the screen blinks on for 1 second and off for 2 seconds and repeats. Tried different configurations with the same results. The system just won’t stay on. Took it off and found an unused C wire but the display doesn’t come on at all now but we did feel the air coming through the vents even though we can’t control anything. Gonna give it another go today. Thanks for this video.
jeffostroff tried again this morning and just put the old unit back on. I’m gonna call Best Buy and let them handle this one. The air did cut on this morning but no display. Thanks for the reply.
Nice video just pick this up and going to install in on Saturday after replacing my central ac unit. I pick this up for $54.02 out the door I think that's a good price.
Thx for the video showing all detail steps to install the device. I just checked my old Honeywell thermostat and found one of the wire is connected to RC, with what I think is a jumper, a kind of U shape little metal hook, connecting the RC and R. Can I ask you how to change this set of wire into the new WiFi thermostat? Do I do the same like the old setting? Connect the wire to RC, with the U shape jumper hooking the RC and R? Thx very much 🙏🏻
For most common systems, the default configuration at the factory on the thermostat is to jumper the Rc to the Rh. This is because most systems have only one red wire coming out of the wall going to "R". So they both get jumpered together for single control. If you have 2 lines coming out of the wall that are red, chances are one goes to RC, the other goes to Rh, and you must remove the jumper. Which do you have?
@@jeffostroff thx very much for your reply. I am using Honeywell RTH221B (battery needed), and I found only 4 wires coming out from wall (so, no wire for "C"). 3 wires going to "GYW", and one going to "RC", a jumper connecting "RC" and "R" together. Therefore I believe I need to figure out how to provide power to the thermostat if want the one you mentioned in the video...
@@leochh We had to do the same thing on this install. What I had to do was inside the air conditioning unit I found a 24 Volt signal that I was able to use for my C line and Wren dad to the sea line. But by doing that I lose the ability to ever run my air conditioner in fan only mode which is no big deal because I only use it in AC mode cooling mode, or in heat mode I never operated with just a fan only so that was no big loss for me.
I installed one several years ago, and I had to fish an additional wire for the C wire. Living in Minnesota, mine controls my furnace, and the furnace controls the AC.
This is awesome. I just bought one of these at HD for $99 (on sale from $179). The thermostat in the house that I just bought was acting weird and this is an older house (built in '99) so I decided to just change it out. Come to find out, it was a battery-operated one. I suspect that the weirdness was because the batteries were low but not so low that it stopped working altogether. I pulled the old module off the wall (but not the backplate) and only saw 4 wires. Well, damn. Then I went to the furnace and saw that there was a 5th wire wrapped around the sheathing, not being used. BINGO! So I went back to the wall and could see that they took that blue wire and fed it back into the hole in the wall. I pulled it out, hooked it up to the C connection on the furnace and, as if by magic, the thermostat powered right up! And it was a sinch to connect to my wifi and my phone, so now I can adjust the schedule without standing in the hallway bending over. So much better for my back. And the old thermostat was only backlit when you did something to it. It's nice to have power going to it all the time so I never have to worry about batteries and I can read the thing without changing something. So far, I love it! Thanks so much for the video to give me enough knowledge to get this replaced without having to call an HVAC guy, although the furnace hasn't been serviced since 2001, so I'm going to have someone come out and do a good cleaning on it just to make sure everything is in good working order.
Great video, but wonder why you didn’t mention to turn off power to the AC AND HEATING in the electrical panel before starting. You showed it, but didn’t mention to turn off the power.🤔👍🏽
Great video. Very informative. Thank you. I wish you could showed the whole menu on the settings, even if it was brief. But great job on the video. Just purchased one. Thanks.
Every night at 2am, the screen will be 100% bright for about one hour. That is normal and I don't think it's mentioned in the owner's manual. Thought mine was bad but I found the answer online.
I keep getting mixed info on using a wired outside temp sensor. They say it can be done, but no-one has told me which terminals to use for this thermostat. Either it cannot be done, or can someone tell me where to connect? There is no s1/s2, responders say "get an electritian or hvac guy" but I've wired home entertainment systems that are more complicated, taught CCNA (cisco certification part where you had to make and run your own Cat5 wires to routers and switches), so I am not sure how wiring this is too complicated for me. Is there a terminal for external outside sensors or not? If so which? Thank for your response and sorry for being too wordy. Great video.
I never used sensors, so try the page on Honeywell's web site for this thermostat and then contact their customer care who can answer that, they don't show anything in the manual
OMG! That is an awesome thermostat. We recently got a quote for an updated central system and, the Thermostat EXACTLY like this one was $1500.00 added on the $10,000.00 price JUST for the Air cond., without the furnace, since ours was recently replaced with an Energy star 95 percent efficient 100,000 BTU Propane furnace.
I'm changing from a 2-year old Honeywell, so I'm lucky enough to already have five wires for an easy switchover...IF my blasted electrician had labelled my panel so that I could know if I've shut the power off to the unit. Because mine is on battery, I can't tell if I've turned the right switch off or not? Thanks for the helpful video once I get that part figured out. :)
@@jeffostroff Hilariously (and perhaps dangerously?), I thought I'd turned the right fuse off. To test, I dropped the temp on the thermostat to see if the air would come on...it didn't, so I went ahead and installed the new one. As soon as I popped the thermostat on, though, it powered up. I thought it wouldn't power on until I went back to the panel to turn it back on? I know it's got the C-wire for power, but wouldn't that have been off? Or am I just lucky that I didn't shock myself? :)
Great video and crystal clear but I'm still having problems. Had basic honeywell thermostat before and switching to this one. I have a 5 wire system white/ w green/g yellow/y my blue was going to Rc and red to Rh on old unit. New one is not powering on. Would the blue go to the c (common?)connection instead of rc? I would greatly appreciate some help it's getting cold in here and I'm in Michigan! Lol🥶
Usually the blue liner goes to C but you can't always guarantee that so you really need to find out where the 5 wires go to on the air conditioner itself
Thank you for the video! Question, recently my thermostat (slightly older model) starts turning the air on sooner than the scheduled time. And I know the weather outside is not hot enough to start the program. Example: I have it set to lower the air from 74 to 70 at 8pm. This is starting to lower the air at 6pm. (before it would start around 7:45pm). So I decided to do a factory restart, and still same results. Now another issue. It is registering 75 when I know for a fact that the room is 70 degrees because I have 2 portable thermometers that I am using to make sure this is right and they both say 70. I tried to reach out to Honeywell support, but no response yet, been 3 days. Any advice? The unit is only 5 years old.
Thanks so very much about the C; you're right about it being in very small letters! I have a 5-wire (or common) so I was able to get this connected; but would not have if I had not watched your video first.
Hi Jeff, I try to install this one same as yours RTH9585Wi-Fi. I have only four wires White, Blue, Red and Green but the green wire you are connecting is C WIRE? It's supposed to go with G below Y? They told me to buy C adaptor to install. Please let me ASAP so that I don't need to buy Adapter. Thanks
I had to steal a wire from inside my air conditioning air handler unit to pretend to be the see water because I too had a four wire system not a five wire system. So I looked on the schematic for my air handler and found a spot where I could grab the 24 Volt AC C wire but by doing that I had to disconnect one of the four wires going to the thermostat which controls just running the fan only mode on the air handler. So I lose the ability to ever just turn on the fan only which I don't mind because I only use my system in AC mode or in heating mode and I never need just the fan only mode so it was a loss of functionality that I am able to live with.
Hello. Your instructions are straight to the point and very easy to follow. My problem is I have 8 wires on my old thermostat which the C wire is blue. O tool a picture but don't know what to do with all those wires.
Thanks for your video. I have only one question remaining after watching it... My unit is ClimateMaster and has a Dehumidifier - with a black wire marked as Dehumidifier. Do you know if this thermostat handles dehumidification? Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I was glad that u mentioned the need for a "c" wire but unfortunately when u installed the thermostat you did not talk about the adjustment that you said you made or even point it out to us at the most important time, installation. What if you only have a heating system etc do you need the c wire and or the adjustment?
With most smart thermostats you always need C-wire regardless of whether you have a heater or an air conditioner or what because the C wire is needed to help provide the 24 volts needed by the thermostat to operate and to turn on their own display for you to see what's going on to power up that display. Older thermostat models that operate off batteries won't need a C wire but I highly suggest against using battery operated thermostats they were a source of many arguments between me and my wife as to whether the battery needed to be changed or the air conditioner does not feel right because she thinks the battery has to be changed but in the end having a thermostat that runs off 24 volts is the best way to go.
Yes I had mine working without a common. I did not have the adapter like you did but I just robbed another part of the circuit in the air conditioner in order to make it work.
I'm not sure, I rarely go by colors, since they can be hooked up all different ways. I go by the wiring diagram on the panel of the air handler to tell me what the wire colors mean mean.
Jeff, very helpful. My TRANE XL850 died and I should be able to replace with a like version of the Honeywell (both 24v) the Trane is connected by 3 wires.
Did you know that the Ecobee smart thermostats come with a pek module or a power extender kit module that you wire in at your furnace that converts your 4 wire interface to supply power at the thermostat? You don't give up your G wire. You can still independently control you fan without heat or cool being on. That is why I went with an Ecobee. Plus you get added voice control through Alexa or google home.
@@jeffostroff I have been wanting to go Smart Thermostat for 16 years but was afraid to try it because I never changed one before. Thanks for helping make that come true!
great video, fyi honeywell makes a c wire adapter CWIREADPTR, the only caveat is that it does not work with heat-only systems; with this adapter you retain all of your thermostat functions
Some people have resorted to getting a doorbell transformer and tie it to the 120 Volt supply, in order to arrive at their 24 Volt AC needed for the C wire
Note to all: the C wire is usually blue. My 20 year old home fortunately has the blue wire currently not connected to my old thermostat, but that will change tomorrow when I install this beauty.
Hey, so first of all thanks for the video! But after install, the air blows cold for a few mins then it blows warm. Not sure if i did something wrong but all the wires are in the right place
Issues you can fix: Thermostat is set to HEAT Clogged outside unit Outside unit is not receiving power outside unit having issues with the compressor Issues a professional needs to fix: Low refrigerant (refrigerant leak) Dirty evaporator coil Leaky or disconnected air ducts
@@jeffostroff okay thanks for that information. With the old unit there was a red wire in RH (there was no R or RC option) so when i put this new unit in i put that red wire in R, do you think i should try putting the red wire in RC instead or R?
Hey so quick question. I didn't have a C wire so was going go use the G wire ! I went to my furnace and saw that there's a wire connected to the "C" wire already
I had a similar issue while installing this thermostat for this video. What I did in my air handler was I encountered something similar and I found a 24 Volt point in the air handler and removed one other wire to make it available to use to get it back to the trans thermostat. By doing that in the air handler what I actually did was disabled the ability for the air handler to ever go into fan only mode. This is something I never use anyway we only have the AC on, or we have the heat on we never turn on fan only on our air handler so it was not a problem to do this. But for many people you're going to have to make a decision if I steal a wire from something else in the circuitry on the air handler to use it for the C wire, what am I giving up and am I ready to give it up?
@@jeffostroff i actually got ahold of my HVAC buddy. The c wire that was already connected was actually for the AC outside! All I did was attach the G wire to the C wire connection and I didn't need to jump the Y wire to the G wire ! It all worked out
You're going to have to come up with a way of supply that 24 volts AC to your thermostat. If you don't have a way to get it any other method, some people go on Amazon and they buy a doorbell plug-in transformer for about $15 and that gives you your 24 Volt AC to power the thermostat. We just did this at our church last week for the ring doorbells to power them
My old thermostat wiring has G wire… I inserted into G slot on the Honeywell but it didn’t work. The thermostat didn’t start up after I finished installation
The g wire provides power to the blower, not the thermostat. You need the "C" wire for that: www.ifixit.com/News/30317/what-all-those-letters-mean-on-your-thermostats-wiring#:~:text=G%3A%20This%20wire%20controls%20the,the%20vents%20in%20your%20house.
In the set up it asked if the unit is Gas or Electric, which do I put if the AC is electric and the Furnace is propane? I haven't installed it yet, but your video seems to be very clear. You mentioned there's a link showing how to add or work around the missing 5th wire. Would you happen to know the link for that? Thanks in advance
Kevin not sure about the propane, but they have a lot of setup and wiring tips on the Honeywell site ofr this thermostat: www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/how-do-i-wire-my-wifi-9000-color-touchscreen-thermostat/
I like this model but I noticed my old thermostat (an old Honeywell as well) is missing that C wire and I was disappointed because it's going to be a hassle on the installation.
Great video with very important information. I wish you'd went through some of the features of the thermostat either in this video or in another video. Otherwise, great job!
Finally got mine installed; a couple of quick notes worth mentioning while I'm here. First, this thing is flimsy as heck. I broke not one but TWO of the plastic terminal housing just pushing the wires in, incredible. I was half tempted to simply send it back right then and there, but figured I'd push ahead and see if I could get it powered up and working despite not having confidence that the wires were securely snug but it appears to be up and working thus far. Second, it seems you MUST set the schedule and edit the schedule via the touch panel on the front of the device - I see no way to edit or change the schedule once you've logged in to your account on the web through that interface. *Edit - I had previously said you were required to toggle the device from heat to AC manually, but this is not true; you can set it to go between both as needed automatically, which is nice. For the price, as long as you can keep from breaking the terminal housing with the wires, it's actually a nice little thermostat.
@@justc215 Nope, sorry for the bad info! It does indeed have the ability to go between heat and air without you having to intervene. That was my mistake, it just wasn't clear to me at the time.
question, the thermostat i currently have you never have to change the batteries does that possibly mean it already has that c wire tht would be needed for this thermostat
I had a 5th wire (red stowed away in the hole) would that be the C wire. Old had 4 wires G, Y, W and one connected to Rc with jumper to R. I assumed, that and used it. It operated heating, but no display. Any suggestions?
Yes, usually the wire that is folded back is the C wire. You need the C wire to have the display come on. Also make sure your display panel is snapped in perfectly onto the wall plate connector.
Hi Jeff, thank you for the video. Question, my previous Honeywell Smart thermostat was not reading properly (installed 6 years ago) by contractor who was moving it when I had my kitchen/dining room remodeled. Now, after taking it off the plate, I noticed a yellow wire not connected. There is a blue where the Y connection should be so did he forget to install the yellow in Y2 position? I am installing the new one and wondering if I should connect it there? if I do, are there any issues I would face if it doesn't need connection? Thank you!
the colors of the wires you see don't always mean anything, you need to see on the air handler the circuit diagram for the air handler that shows where each of these wires goes to, then see if it lines up with the proper terminal on the thermostat
@@djb8078 G wire doesn't go to the condenser, when I say "fan" I am referring to the blower motor inside the furnace as a "fan". I replaced my 4 wire bundle with a 5, but if I didn't care about being able to cycle the "blower motor" without heating or cooling; as in just the blower pushing unconditioned, and unheated air, when the outdoor temperature is mild and not too far below room temp. There is an option on the Honeywell Unit that allows for the fan to cycle 25% on and 75% off., : 2.5 minutes out of every 10 minutes of something like that. When you reappropriate the green wire as a "C" wire you will lose this ability. Your blower will only come on during heating and cooling cycles.
nice and very informative video. however, i have 6 wires (orange wire), i installed last winter and no problem at all with the heating. this summer, i tried the cooling and hot air comes out from the vents. any idea or advise to correct this. thanks
is this a learning thermostat like the nest? like it learns your heating and cooling schedule so you dont ever have to touch it the nest does that which i like
You can adjust security options to prevent unauthorized changes to system settings. 1 Touch SETTINGS and select Security Settings. 2 Select Change Lock Mode. 3 Select an option and follow prompts: Unlocked: Full access allowed. Partially locked: Only temperature can be changed. Fully locked: No access allowed.
Jeff I have 7 wires... (Heat Pump) Y2, Aux/E, G, O/B, C, Y, and R. My c wire is getting 25 v. When I connect the Honeywell 9585, I get nothing... blank screen, no power?
@@cuzzc9617 Unfortunately with all of these wires there's so many moving parts and so many opportunities for things to go wrong. So we know that you need 24 volts coming on the red line and we know that the C wire if you have correctly chosen it is supposed to be the black common wire that goes back to the air conditioner. I doubt the C wire should have 24 volts on it. depending on what wiring the installers used hopefully the C wire is normally black in my case it was green because my older AC did not have AC wire connection on a four wire cable that they had so I had to do some tricking inside the air conditioner to give me a C wire out of the green wire. But if you open up the panel on the air conditioner where your wires all come in to it you should be able to double check which color wire is indeed going to the common or C terminal. They often have a wiring diagram on the inside of the panel or on the outside so you should be able to tell if those wires are indeed going to where you think they are. Also you should search on the Internet for “thermostat wiring diagram” so you can see what all the different colors are and where they're supposed to connect up and make sure you have the jumper going from R to Rc on the thermostat. remember just because you have a set of wires there doesn't mean that they are correctly following the normal convention. Lastly it could also be that you just have a bum unit, but not likely and so you should call Honeywell and talk to their tech support people about whether or not it is wired up correctly or if the unit is just bad . ‘
We’ve had one of these for a few months. It’s been great until today we got home and the screen is black we cant get it to turn back on any advise? Lol please help West Virginia is pretty cold 🥶
I would 1st check your Electrical panel and make sure that there's no tripped breakers in it. Tperiod the thermostat does need the 24 V AC coming from the air conditioning unit and if that stops then you're not going to get any power to it. The other thing is maybe your screen is bad but maybe the unit is still working so try to access it through the app on your phone and see if you can do anything there. That wouldn't weed out whether you have a bad display. Lastly you can try just popping the whole unit off the wall and plugging it back in .
So I noticed in the setup screen you have to indicate whether you have Gas or Electric service. It appears to be a binary choice. What if you have a package unit with electric AC and Gas Heat? Would you select electric?
What if our current wiring only has a W2 connection... the W has no wire running to it? There doesn't seem to be an option for just the W2? Great, informative video BTW! I greatly appreciate everyone who posts videos on these sorts of things, I always prefer to see someone go through something like this that I'm unfamiliar with before I jump in and screw things up.
Sounds like you were dealing with some type of heater or heat pump only and not air conditioner am I right? The problem is these newer thermostats with the computer screens and everything need a 24 Volt AC source of power to operate. So if you don't have that in your in your system and you can't tap into a terminal somewhere in your circuit board to get that 24 volts, some people will run wiring in their wall to the nearest 120VAC electrical outlet, and then connect that wiring to a doorbell transformer which will give you the 24 volts that you need in order to operate the thermostat in order to turn it on.
@@jeffostroff Sorry, I should have mentioned that in my original post, yes I have a heat pump. I contacted Honeywell support via their chat option and sent them a pic of my existing wiring, which has wires running to Y, G, C, W2, R, and an unlabeled terminal. They determined that the unlabeled terminal was O/B (or something like that, I never got a transcript of the chat and didn't make a note of it at the time) and that everything as it is currently is correct. They also confirmed that when the new RTH9585WF1004 boots up and asks me if I have W or both W and W2, I should select both. Now to just figure out for sure which circuit this thing is on in my breaker panel 🙂
my thermostat has 5wires, red to RH, white to o/b, Y to yellow, G to green and C to blue wire, do i swap the G green wire & connect it to the C and the blue wire to G? and do i connect the red wire to RC or R on the honeywell thermostat? any assistance is appreciated, thank you!
I'm not sure what you were talking about swapping wires if you already had five wires before you hook them up to the exact same connections on the new Honeywell thermostat there is no reason to change anything
They indicate it will drive a furnace, look at the wire on the owners manual www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/air/thermostats/wifi-thermostats/wifi-color-touchscreen-thermostat-rth9585wf1004-u/ check pages 5-8
Hi Jeff. Good video but I noticed that huge wall opening where if you don't plater it, your thermostat would be affected by heat or cold drafts. I completely sealed the are where my wires go through.
Hey bud. Question. I just bought the same thing. I don't believe i have a C wire coming to my current thermostat but there are 4 wires coming through the wall. The new honeywell came with a white jumper. Can i still hook the new one up?
what I did on my AC is I reassigned one of the wires on my AC unit to be the O wire, but then lose the ability to run the Fan Only mode, which we were ok with. I believe in newer versions of the manual they have tricks to provide a C wire.
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Okay I thinking on getting it, It got confusing on link to Amazon for thermostat, on description it said it uses AA batteries If you don't have C wire? I have a regular gas furnace ( no AC/ cooling system) nothing fancy So I can't use that thermostat that is required C wire hook up even on Amazon it takes AA battery? I want to get one that is password protected that nobody can turn on furnace and jack up the temp and I can shut off and turn on furnace while I'm at work or out of town.
If my red wire has continuous 27 volts would I put that in the " c " slot? Thanks
Hi Jeff, Thanks for the informative video, it was very helpful. I have a 4 zone system - three that can operate on their own, and the 4th is the main panel that controls the 4th zone but can also control the other three. Will this Honeywell system work in that set up? I do have the 5 wires required and had the Honeywell in another home and liked it. The plan is to replace the existing Honeywell's that are about 15 years old.
Thanks!
Jeff
Any updates on this?
We recently had our HVAC replaced with what I Believe is Heat pump after years of a dead unit and I'm looking into a more advanced controller. What I'd Like to have is one where I can have AC from say 8a-8p and then have it switch to heat from 8p-8a during the warmer months, but during the colder months, have it be just on heat. I was also considering finding one that can adjust based on the exterior temperature, but I'm still pondering how important that would be.
AWESOME... I'm 67 years old and a woman - and I DID IT! Too easy! Thank you for the walk thru!
You are so welcome!
And a woman? 🙄
AND a woman............ 🤦♂️
Great job!!!
After reading the confusing instructions to use a "C" wire, I ran a new 5 wire cable. Your explanation gave me the understanding and confidence to do this. Thank You Jeff for your down to earth explanations. It works like charm.
Awesome glad it worked
Thank you for posting this video! I was dreading changing my heating and cooling thermostat, but I didn’t want to spend over $400.00 to get someone to install it for me. I followed your video methodically and was able to complete this task by myself. Thank you for sharing your expertise with me and the uTube world!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
52 seconds into your intro, I knew this was the best instruction about installing this unit. Cons were up front & this was invaluable & greatly appreciated!
Thank you for biting the bullet, & troubleshooting it all, for the rest of us.
thanks glad to help!
If you dont have a C wire you can always purchase a Plug in Transformer that will provide 24v, super easy.
@@willytech97 how much was that??
@@Kkellyd1 the plug in transformers run around $20
@@willytech97 thank you so much, I ended up having all the wires I needed which I was so thankful for!! The were stuck in the wall cavity
I watched this video, kept going back and forth to the thermostat and the computer. My house wire had six wires but I labled them like he said, put them where they belonged and it worked perfect. Great video, 10 out of 10
Just purchased this exact thermostat and this video made installation seamless.
Thanks Jeff. I enjoyed your video because it was to the point. You wasted no time showing us useless stuff; I appreciated that. I have this (same) thermostat but today, it powered off at 02:30. When I awoke, I noticed it and haven't been able to reset it. I removed it, checked the breakers and replaced the faceplate, but it still didn't reconnect.
After doing some research on my wiring, this showing me the green wire (which I have on my system for power for "C" wire which I have) is the one to use for it, not only was I happy to learn that and I will check with meter to verify that my green wire has power on mine for certain, it also sold me on buying this exact unit. I appreciate all the helpful info and phone app workability which was also extremely helpful! THANKS MAN!
Glad to help Roy!
I'm really glad he took the time to make this video. But the first eight minutes could have been covered in 45 seconds. The second eight minutes was very useful
Yes, I’m starting to get the picture that we need a C wire for this.
This video is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank goodness for all of the teachers at TH-cam University. 🤣 thanks so much for posting!
Glad it was helpful!
You never cease to amaze me Jeff, installing one of these today, and bam Jeff got a video on it😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
You know it bro!
Hi Mr. Jeff, I just purchased the same Honeywell Wifi Thermostat here in Central FL.. and I'll install it tomorrow.. Our old HoneyWell is still trying to Connect for 3 days..6 yrs of great service.. but it was time for an Upgrade..! Thanks for the great helpful video.. Stay Safe .!
Glad to help Alberto!
Hey, great video. School of YOU TUBE came thru again. It made the change super simple and it made me very confident in the hands on work.
Thank you for this excellent video. I was afraid to do this by myself, but your instructions were perfect and saved me having to pay someone to do it for me. THANK YOU!!
Ha I just bought one of these yesterday and made this same mistake.lol Tried it without the C wire and the screen blinks on for 1 second and off for 2 seconds and repeats. Tried different configurations with the same results. The system just won’t stay on. Took it off and found an unused C wire but the display doesn’t come on at all now but we did feel the air coming through the vents even though we can’t control anything. Gonna give it another go today. Thanks for this video.
Dang I hope you did not get a bum unit, maybe the display part is bad. If you can measure the C wire voltage, see if it is 24v
jeffostroff tried again this morning and just put the old unit back on. I’m gonna call Best Buy and let them handle this one. The air did cut on this morning but no display. Thanks for the reply.
from beginning to end and from device to App instructions, awesome that's what i needed.
Thanks Jonathan, glad to help out!
Nice video just pick this up and going to install in on Saturday after replacing my central ac unit. I pick this up for $54.02 out the door I think that's a good price.
Awesome advice and crystal clear instructions. Thank you so much for sharing!
Excellent Video! Although I am not a Handy person I would love to watch the DYI videos!
Thanks for coming back to another of our videos Leah
Thx for the video showing all detail steps to install the device. I just checked my old Honeywell thermostat and found one of the wire is connected to RC, with what I think is a jumper, a kind of U shape little metal hook, connecting the RC and R.
Can I ask you how to change this set of wire into the new WiFi thermostat? Do I do the same like the old setting? Connect the wire to RC, with the U shape jumper hooking the RC and R?
Thx very much 🙏🏻
For most common systems, the default configuration at the factory on the thermostat is to jumper the Rc to the Rh. This is because most systems have only one red wire coming out of the wall going to "R". So they both get jumpered together for single control. If you have 2 lines coming out of the wall that are red, chances are one goes to RC, the other goes to Rh, and you must remove the jumper. Which do you have?
@@jeffostroff thx very much for your reply. I am using Honeywell RTH221B (battery needed), and I found only 4 wires coming out from wall (so, no wire for "C"). 3 wires going to "GYW", and one going to "RC", a jumper connecting "RC" and "R" together.
Therefore I believe I need to figure out how to provide power to the thermostat if want the one you mentioned in the video...
@@leochh We had to do the same thing on this install. What I had to do was inside the air conditioning unit I found a 24 Volt signal that I was able to use for my C line and Wren dad to the sea line. But by doing that I lose the ability to ever run my air conditioner in fan only mode which is no big deal because I only use it in AC mode cooling mode, or in heat mode I never operated with just a fan only so that was no big loss for me.
@@jeffostroff thx for your advice, let me try this out~ :D
Great job! Just bought this thermostat. Thanks for the great, easy to understand video!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for the video. The best instructor every.
You're very welcome!
Yeah I definitely don't want to get stoinked
Thanks for the wisdom
Any time!
Very Helpful video. Didn't have read the instructions at all setting mine up.
Glad it helped
I installed one several years ago, and I had to fish an additional wire for the C wire. Living in Minnesota, mine controls my furnace, and the furnace controls the AC.
This is awesome. I just bought one of these at HD for $99 (on sale from $179). The thermostat in the house that I just bought was acting weird and this is an older house (built in '99) so I decided to just change it out. Come to find out, it was a battery-operated one. I suspect that the weirdness was because the batteries were low but not so low that it stopped working altogether.
I pulled the old module off the wall (but not the backplate) and only saw 4 wires. Well, damn. Then I went to the furnace and saw that there was a 5th wire wrapped around the sheathing, not being used. BINGO! So I went back to the wall and could see that they took that blue wire and fed it back into the hole in the wall. I pulled it out, hooked it up to the C connection on the furnace and, as if by magic, the thermostat powered right up!
And it was a sinch to connect to my wifi and my phone, so now I can adjust the schedule without standing in the hallway bending over. So much better for my back. And the old thermostat was only backlit when you did something to it. It's nice to have power going to it all the time so I never have to worry about batteries and I can read the thing without changing something.
So far, I love it! Thanks so much for the video to give me enough knowledge to get this replaced without having to call an HVAC guy, although the furnace hasn't been serviced since 2001, so I'm going to have someone come out and do a good cleaning on it just to make sure everything is in good working order.
Awesome, glad to hear you found that 5th wire, this is a great thermostat and you got that great black friday sales price too
I got the same 99.00 deal!!
@@j.rcoker9051 SWEET!
Very illustrative video. Thanks for that!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for the c- wire information
Glad to help Daniel!
Great video, but wonder why you didn’t mention to turn off power to the AC AND HEATING in the electrical panel before starting. You showed it, but didn’t mention to turn off the power.🤔👍🏽
How do you set up the auto change?
This video has convinced me I do not need a WIFI thermostat.
O but the benefits are so awesome know to be but a controller when you leave the house
O but the benefits are so awesome know to be but a controller when you leave the house
O but the benefits are so awesome know to be but a controller when you leave the house
Great video. Very informative. Thank you. I wish you could showed the whole menu on the settings, even if it was brief. But great job on the video. Just purchased one. Thanks.
Sorry about that video was getting too long already.
Great video! Led me right through my installation. Thank you!
Glad it helped
Every night at 2am, the screen will be 100% bright for about one hour. That is normal and I don't think it's mentioned in the owner's manual. Thought mine was bad but I found the answer online.
I keep getting mixed info on using a wired outside temp sensor. They say it can be done, but no-one has told me which terminals to use for this thermostat. Either it cannot be done, or can someone tell me where to connect? There is no s1/s2, responders say "get an electritian or hvac guy" but I've wired home entertainment systems that are more complicated, taught CCNA (cisco certification part where you had to make and run your own Cat5 wires to routers and switches), so I am not sure how wiring this is too complicated for me. Is there a terminal for external outside sensors or not? If so which? Thank for your response and sorry for being too wordy. Great video.
I never used sensors, so try the page on Honeywell's web site for this thermostat and then contact their customer care who can answer that, they don't show anything in the manual
OMG! That is an awesome thermostat. We recently got a quote for an updated central system and, the Thermostat EXACTLY like this one was $1500.00 added on the $10,000.00 price JUST for the Air cond., without the furnace, since ours was recently replaced with an Energy star 95 percent efficient 100,000 BTU Propane furnace.
I'm changing from a 2-year old Honeywell, so I'm lucky enough to already have five wires for an easy switchover...IF my blasted electrician had labelled my panel so that I could know if I've shut the power off to the unit. Because mine is on battery, I can't tell if I've turned the right switch off or not? Thanks for the helpful video once I get that part figured out. :)
Glad to help!
@@jeffostroff Hilariously (and perhaps dangerously?), I thought I'd turned the right fuse off. To test, I dropped the temp on the thermostat to see if the air would come on...it didn't, so I went ahead and installed the new one. As soon as I popped the thermostat on, though, it powered up. I thought it wouldn't power on until I went back to the panel to turn it back on? I know it's got the C-wire for power, but wouldn't that have been off? Or am I just lucky that I didn't shock myself? :)
Great video and crystal clear but I'm still having problems. Had basic honeywell thermostat before and switching to this one. I have a 5 wire system white/ w green/g yellow/y my blue was going to Rc and red to Rh on old unit. New one is not powering on. Would the blue go to the c (common?)connection instead of rc? I would greatly appreciate some help it's getting cold in here and I'm in Michigan! Lol🥶
Usually the blue liner goes to C but you can't always guarantee that so you really need to find out where the 5 wires go to on the air conditioner itself
@jeffostroff thank you man I really appreciate the quick reply. I just put the old one back in for now until I figure this out.
Thank you for the video! Question, recently my thermostat (slightly older model) starts turning the air on sooner than the scheduled time. And I know the weather outside is not hot enough to start the program. Example: I have it set to lower the air from 74 to 70 at 8pm. This is starting to lower the air at 6pm. (before it would start around 7:45pm). So I decided to do a factory restart, and still same results. Now another issue. It is registering 75 when I know for a fact that the room is 70 degrees because I have 2 portable thermometers that I am using to make sure this is right and they both say 70. I tried to reach out to Honeywell support, but no response yet, been 3 days. Any advice? The unit is only 5 years old.
Maybe your time zone is off on the thermostat? Check the setup menu, find out what city is the time zone that it thinks it is set to
Thanks so very much about the C; you're right about it being in very small letters! I have a 5-wire (or common) so I was able to get this connected; but would not have if I had not watched your video first.
Way to go Eddie
Hi Jeff,
I try to install this one same as yours RTH9585Wi-Fi. I have only four wires White, Blue, Red and Green but the green wire you are connecting is C WIRE? It's supposed to go with G below Y?
They told me to buy C adaptor to install. Please let me ASAP so that I don't need to buy Adapter. Thanks
I had to steal a wire from inside my air conditioning air handler unit to pretend to be the see water because I too had a four wire system not a five wire system. So I looked on the schematic for my air handler and found a spot where I could grab the 24 Volt AC C wire but by doing that I had to disconnect one of the four wires going to the thermostat which controls just running the fan only mode on the air handler. So I lose the ability to ever just turn on the fan only which I don't mind because I only use my system in AC mode or in heating mode and I never need just the fan only mode so it was a loss of functionality that I am able to live with.
Hello. Your instructions are straight to the point and very easy to follow. My problem is I have 8 wires on my old thermostat which the C wire is blue. O tool a picture but don't know what to do with all those wires.
Check on the Honeywell web site support for you thermostat, they have other wiring scenarios there
Thanks for your video. I have only one question remaining after watching it... My unit is ClimateMaster and has a Dehumidifier - with a black wire marked as Dehumidifier. Do you know if this thermostat handles dehumidification? Thanks!
bro you saved me a thousand dollars
Cha ching! way to go!
Thank you for this video. I was glad that u mentioned the need for a "c" wire but unfortunately when u installed the thermostat you did not talk about the adjustment that you said you made or even point it out to us at the most important time, installation. What if you only have a heating system etc do you need the c wire and or the adjustment?
With most smart thermostats you always need C-wire regardless of whether you have a heater or an air conditioner or what because the C wire is needed to help provide the 24 volts needed by the thermostat to operate and to turn on their own display for you to see what's going on to power up that display. Older thermostat models that operate off batteries won't need a C wire but I highly suggest against using battery operated thermostats they were a source of many arguments between me and my wife as to whether the battery needed to be changed or the air conditioner does not feel right because she thinks the battery has to be changed but in the end having a thermostat that runs off 24 volts is the best way to go.
I have a boiler and this exact thermostat and it works fine with a 24v adapter. So it will work without a common wire
Yes I had mine working without a common. I did not have the adapter like you did but I just robbed another part of the circuit in the air conditioner in order to make it work.
Thank ou for making this video. I just bought mine and my ac heat guys will be installing this with my new system
Glad I could help, you'll love this thermostat!
Very helpful but on my old one I also have an orange and blue wire. How do I hook them up? I have a total 8 wires to include the c wire.
I'm not sure, I rarely go by colors, since they can be hooked up all different ways. I go by the wiring diagram on the panel of the air handler to tell me what the wire colors mean mean.
Jeff, very helpful. My TRANE XL850 died and I should be able to replace with a like version of the Honeywell (both 24v) the Trane is connected by 3 wires.
Only 3 wires? That might be a challenge. Soon I want to upgrade my AC to the Dave Lennox Series, their top of the line model, then convert to 5 wire.
Did you know that the Ecobee smart thermostats come with a pek module or a power extender kit module that you wire in at your furnace that converts your 4 wire interface to supply power at the thermostat? You don't give up your G wire. You can still independently control you fan without heat or cool being on. That is why I went with an Ecobee. Plus you get added voice control through Alexa or google home.
that is handy
Excellent job on this video. Thank you.
Excellent video!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Great instructional video on this thermostat install and set up. Loved it!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
@@jeffostroff I have been wanting to go Smart Thermostat for 16 years but was afraid to try it because I never changed one before. Thanks for helping make that come true!
You said it had no batteries, but description says it has two batteries (for backup when power fails to C-wire transformer). Can you clarify?
Does it have an internal backup for storing the information you have when you have electricity out?
On my old Thermostat I have a separate aux and E cord do I put those together to put in the new slot
Sorry, I have no idea what those 2 wires do never heard that nomenclature before
Does this have to be hooked to the internet for it to work
If internet goes down you can still use the thermostat on the screen, but you will have no access via the app on your phone
What do you do with the S1 and S2 wires on the older Honeywell thermostat?
Thanks for the video. I was wondering if you knew how to set temperature limits on this. I’m trying to make sure less energy is used in our house.
Hey Jeff thanks for the info very helpful
Do you have a video on how to wire the smart thermostat at the furnace?
Thanks
I don't sorry
great video, fyi honeywell makes a c wire adapter CWIREADPTR, the only caveat is that it does not work with heat-only systems; with this adapter you retain all of your thermostat functions
Some people have resorted to getting a doorbell transformer and tie it to the 120 Volt supply, in order to arrive at their 24 Volt AC needed for the C wire
@@jeffostroff excellent idea, thank you!!!
Thank you for this. It made my install so easy.
Glad it helped Ryan
Note to all: the C wire is usually blue. My 20 year old home fortunately has the blue wire currently not connected to my old thermostat, but that will change tomorrow when I install this beauty.
Hey, so first of all thanks for the video! But after install, the air blows cold for a few mins then it blows warm. Not sure if i did something wrong but all the wires are in the right place
Issues you can fix:
Thermostat is set to HEAT
Clogged outside unit
Outside unit is not receiving power
outside unit having issues with the compressor
Issues a professional needs to fix:
Low refrigerant (refrigerant leak)
Dirty evaporator coil
Leaky or disconnected air ducts
@@jeffostroff okay thanks for that information. With the old unit there was a red wire in RH (there was no R or RC option) so when i put this new unit in i put that red wire in R, do you think i should try putting the red wire in RC instead or R?
@@AlfaAK101 both RC and R and linked together, would not matter which you put it to
Hey so quick question. I didn't have a C wire so was going go use the G wire ! I went to my furnace and saw that there's a wire connected to the "C" wire already
I had a similar issue while installing this thermostat for this video. What I did in my air handler was I encountered something similar and I found a 24 Volt point in the air handler and removed one other wire to make it available to use to get it back to the trans thermostat. By doing that in the air handler what I actually did was disabled the ability for the air handler to ever go into fan only mode. This is something I never use anyway we only have the AC on, or we have the heat on we never turn on fan only on our air handler so it was not a problem to do this. But for many people you're going to have to make a decision if I steal a wire from something else in the circuitry on the air handler to use it for the C wire, what am I giving up and am I ready to give it up?
@@jeffostroff i actually got ahold of my HVAC buddy. The c wire that was already connected was actually for the AC outside! All I did was attach the G wire to the C wire connection and I didn't need to jump the Y wire to the G wire ! It all worked out
My baseboard heater (208/230 ) wall thermostat has only 2 wire. Any suggestion?
You're going to have to come up with a way of supply that 24 volts AC to your thermostat. If you don't have a way to get it any other method, some people go on Amazon and they buy a doorbell plug-in transformer for about $15 and that gives you your 24 Volt AC to power the thermostat. We just did this at our church last week for the ring doorbells to power them
@@jeffostroff The wall thermostat is line voltage.
@jeffostroff I am thinking to use a no neutral Sonoff. What you think?
My old thermostat wiring has G wire… I inserted into G slot on the Honeywell but it didn’t work. The thermostat didn’t start up after I finished installation
The g wire provides power to the blower, not the thermostat. You need the "C" wire for that: www.ifixit.com/News/30317/what-all-those-letters-mean-on-your-thermostats-wiring#:~:text=G%3A%20This%20wire%20controls%20the,the%20vents%20in%20your%20house.
In the set up it asked if the unit is Gas or Electric, which do I put if the AC is electric and the Furnace is propane? I haven't installed it yet, but your video seems to be very clear. You mentioned there's a link showing how to add or work around the missing 5th wire. Would you happen to know the link for that? Thanks in advance
Kevin not sure about the propane, but they have a lot of setup and wiring tips on the Honeywell site ofr this thermostat: www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/how-do-i-wire-my-wifi-9000-color-touchscreen-thermostat/
If your forced "Heating" system runs off of gas/oil select gas/oil.
Mine is both as well Furnace is gas
Hope this helps..
Installed successfully, thanks for the video!
Great to hear!
Excellent presentation and easy to follow. Good job Jeff thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it Bill!
Just a quick question. How do i change the look of the thermostat? Not the color but the theme itself?
OMG! Get to it! Too looooong!
There's a lot to cover here on this, and we still get questions
I like this model but I noticed my old thermostat (an old Honeywell as well) is missing that C wire and I was disappointed because it's going to be a hassle on the installation.
Great video with very important information. I wish you'd went through some of the features of the thermostat either in this video or in another video. Otherwise, great job!
I did go through many of the features near the end, but also have to keep it short.
Finally got mine installed; a couple of quick notes worth mentioning while I'm here. First, this thing is flimsy as heck. I broke not one but TWO of the plastic terminal housing just pushing the wires in, incredible. I was half tempted to simply send it back right then and there, but figured I'd push ahead and see if I could get it powered up and working despite not having confidence that the wires were securely snug but it appears to be up and working thus far. Second, it seems you MUST set the schedule and edit the schedule via the touch panel on the front of the device - I see no way to edit or change the schedule once you've logged in to your account on the web through that interface.
*Edit - I had previously said you were required to toggle the device from heat to AC manually, but this is not true; you can set it to go between both as needed automatically, which is nice. For the price, as long as you can keep from breaking the terminal housing with the wires, it's actually a nice little thermostat.
Good info be sure to use the app on your phone or iPad to control all settings
So you're telling me if I buy this expensive thermostat I still have to go to it and manually switch it during winter and summer months?
@@justc215 Nope, sorry for the bad info! It does indeed have the ability to go between heat and air without you having to intervene. That was my mistake, it just wasn't clear to me at the time.
@@Sudz28 Scotty! C'mon man lol
@@justc215 I know! I suck! Sorry about the fake news.
question, the thermostat i currently have you never have to change the batteries does that possibly mean it already has that c wire tht would be needed for this thermostat
I had a 5th wire (red stowed away in the hole) would that be the C wire. Old had 4 wires G, Y, W and one connected to Rc with jumper to R. I assumed, that and used it. It operated heating, but no display. Any suggestions?
Yes, usually the wire that is folded back is the C wire. You need the C wire to have the display come on. Also make sure your display panel is snapped in perfectly onto the wall plate connector.
@@jeffostroff is it possible the folded wire is not connected at the furnace?
Hi Jeff, thank you for the video. Question, my previous Honeywell Smart thermostat was not reading properly (installed 6 years ago) by contractor who was moving it when I had my kitchen/dining room remodeled. Now, after taking it off the plate, I noticed a yellow wire not connected. There is a blue where the Y connection should be so did he forget to install the yellow in Y2 position? I am installing the new one and wondering if I should connect it there? if I do, are there any issues I would face if it doesn't need connection? Thank you!
the colors of the wires you see don't always mean anything, you need to see on the air handler the circuit diagram for the air handler that shows where each of these wires goes to, then see if it lines up with the proper terminal on the thermostat
The green wire for "fan only" can be used as a 5th wire, but then the fan is only able to run during heating and cooling, not on its own.
That is how we ran it
You answer my question, thanks.
So I can still connect ” g” wire to g . If not disconnect g from condenser as well ????
@@djb8078 G wire doesn't go to the condenser, when I say "fan" I am referring to the blower motor inside the furnace as a "fan". I replaced my 4 wire bundle with a 5, but if I didn't care about being able to cycle the "blower motor" without heating or cooling; as in just the blower pushing unconditioned, and unheated air, when the outdoor temperature is mild and not too far below room temp. There is an option on the Honeywell Unit that allows for the fan to cycle 25% on and 75% off., : 2.5 minutes out of every 10 minutes of something like that. When you reappropriate the green wire as a "C" wire you will lose this ability. Your blower will only come on during heating and cooling cycles.
Is reconnected the wires perfectly - AC blows heat ?
Triple checked everything
Only thing I can think of is make sure it is in cool mode, and go one by one, check the wires on your system, maybe one got crossed.
nice and very informative video. however, i have 6 wires (orange wire), i installed last winter and no problem at all with the heating. this summer, i tried the cooling and hot air comes out from the vents. any idea or advise to correct this. thanks
can't tell by color of the wirw, we need to see the schematic to see where the wires all go in the AC
Can you create the schedule in the app on the iPad or phone?
is this a learning thermostat like the nest?
like it learns your heating and cooling schedule so you dont ever have to touch it the nest does that which i like
Great Tutorial and Video! Thank you for such a informative walk Thur. 😊
Can you able to lock screen to prevent kids turning temperature?
You can adjust security options to prevent
unauthorized changes to system settings.
1 Touch SETTINGS and select Security Settings.
2 Select Change Lock Mode.
3 Select an option and follow prompts:
Unlocked: Full access allowed.
Partially locked: Only temperature can be changed.
Fully locked: No access allowed.
Jeff I have 7 wires... (Heat Pump) Y2, Aux/E, G, O/B, C, Y, and R. My c wire is getting 25 v. When I connect the Honeywell 9585, I get nothing... blank screen, no power?
The R should be getting 24v, did you test that wire?
@@jeffostroff, yes it is as well. I wish I could shoot you a picture of the current setup.
@@cuzzc9617 Unfortunately with all of these wires there's so many moving parts and so many opportunities for things to go wrong. So we know that you need 24 volts coming on the red line and we know that the C wire if you have correctly chosen it is supposed to be the black common wire that goes back to the air conditioner. I doubt the C wire should have 24 volts on it. depending on what wiring the installers used hopefully the C wire is normally black in my case it was green because my older AC did not have AC wire connection on a four wire cable that they had so I had to do some tricking inside the air conditioner to give me a C wire out of the green wire. But if you open up the panel on the air conditioner where your wires all come in to it you should be able to double check which color wire is indeed going to the common or C terminal. They often have a wiring diagram on the inside of the panel or on the outside so you should be able to tell if those wires are indeed going to where you think they are. Also you should search on the Internet for “thermostat wiring diagram” so you can see what all the different colors are and where they're supposed to connect up and make sure you have the jumper going from R to Rc on the thermostat. remember just because you have a set of wires there doesn't mean that they are correctly following the normal convention. Lastly it could also be that you just have a bum unit, but not likely and so you should call Honeywell and talk to their tech support people about whether or not it is wired up correctly or if the unit is just bad .
‘
@@jeffostroff thanks
Very well made!
Thank you! Cheers!
We’ve had one of these for a few months. It’s been great until today we got home and the screen is black we cant get it to turn back on any advise? Lol please help West Virginia is pretty cold 🥶
I would 1st check your Electrical panel and make sure that there's no tripped breakers in it. Tperiod the thermostat does need the 24 V AC coming from the air conditioning unit and if that stops then you're not going to get any power to it. The other thing is maybe your screen is bad but maybe the unit is still working so try to access it through the app on your phone and see if you can do anything there. That wouldn't weed out whether you have a bad display. Lastly you can try just popping the whole unit off the wall and plugging it back in .
So I noticed in the setup screen you have to indicate whether you have Gas or Electric service. It appears to be a binary choice. What if you have a package unit with electric AC and Gas Heat? Would you select electric?
I don't have central air. Can this be used for a gas boiler only?
There is a setting for it check owners manual pdf file for fuel heater
What if our current wiring only has a W2 connection... the W has no wire running to it? There doesn't seem to be an option for just the W2? Great, informative video BTW! I greatly appreciate everyone who posts videos on these sorts of things, I always prefer to see someone go through something like this that I'm unfamiliar with before I jump in and screw things up.
Sounds like you were dealing with some type of heater or heat pump only and not air conditioner am I right? The problem is these newer thermostats with the computer screens and everything need a 24 Volt AC source of power to operate. So if you don't have that in your in your system and you can't tap into a terminal somewhere in your circuit board to get that 24 volts, some people will run wiring in their wall to the nearest 120VAC electrical outlet, and then connect that wiring to a doorbell transformer which will give you the 24 volts that you need in order to operate the thermostat in order to turn it on.
@@jeffostroff Sorry, I should have mentioned that in my original post, yes I have a heat pump. I contacted Honeywell support via their chat option and sent them a pic of my existing wiring, which has wires running to Y, G, C, W2, R, and an unlabeled terminal. They determined that the unlabeled terminal was O/B (or something like that, I never got a transcript of the chat and didn't make a note of it at the time) and that everything as it is currently is correct. They also confirmed that when the new RTH9585WF1004 boots up and asks me if I have W or both W and W2, I should select both. Now to just figure out for sure which circuit this thing is on in my breaker panel 🙂
my thermostat has 5wires, red to RH, white to o/b, Y to yellow, G to green and C to blue wire, do i swap the G green wire & connect it to the C and the blue wire to G? and do i connect the red wire to RC or R on the honeywell thermostat? any assistance is appreciated, thank you!
I'm not sure what you were talking about swapping wires if you already had five wires before you hook them up to the exact same connections on the new Honeywell thermostat there is no reason to change anything
@@jeffostroff like you said . take a photo with your phone and use the wire label stickers and label them one by one..!
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
So what happens if the internet goes down? Will the programmed schedule still be followed?
Can this Thermostat works with Oil Furnace which has two wires W & R and still able to program it ?
They indicate it will drive a furnace, look at the wire on the owners manual www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/air/thermostats/wifi-thermostats/wifi-color-touchscreen-thermostat-rth9585wf1004-u/ check pages 5-8
Hi Jeff. Good video but I noticed that huge wall opening where if you don't plater it, your thermostat would be affected by heat or cold drafts. I completely sealed the are where my wires go through.
We plan on doing that when we close up the old drywall hole
If you switch to Celsius it does half degree increments. I can't figure out how to change it from Fahrenheit to Celsius. @jeffostroff ?
GooooooooooD Job
Thanks Alyssa!
Hey bud. Question. I just bought the same thing. I don't believe i have a C wire coming to my current thermostat but there are 4 wires coming through the wall. The new honeywell came with a white jumper. Can i still hook the new one up?
what I did on my AC is I reassigned one of the wires on my AC unit to be the O wire, but then lose the ability to run the Fan Only mode, which we were ok with. I believe in newer versions of the manual they have tricks to provide a C wire.
Very good. I will go ahead and buy the same one today.