Hired a professional plumber to install, after about 2 hours said this was not compatible with my Independence boiler. But hey, I got two free holes in my wall for my trouble.
A good practice is to snip the bare wire shorter so there's non visible once connected to the faceplate. There looked to be at least 5-10mm bare wire shown at 5.58 and these could easily connect and cause a short or even a fire when pushing the housing back into position. This is why the wire has the plastic insulation in the first place.
@@Ampacityelectric I can't imagine there's enough amperage to start a fire even if they touched but I like the practice. Cut corners here it's a short trip to doing it elsewhere.
@@Ampacityelectric I wasn't referring to arcing. I was saying that without enough amperage a low voltage wire like this won't start a fire even if the wires touch. For instance a 12v wire won't create a large arc but it sure will start a fire with enough amps and a dead short. EDIT: I guess I should add "and with a conductor this size".
I learned more in the comments than I did in the video. There are so many variables in this kind of installation, I quess that this shows us a basic install. Probably the biggest issue is whether you and your wife like the same temperature not so much if you can use your phone to set the stat!
Strange location, that thermostat box on a toolboard. Toolboards are meant for tools not for thermostat boxes. And he should have cut off a bit of the copper going into that box at 4:50. It will be ok, but leaving so much bare copper sticking out is a bad habbit.
A house fire waiting to happen,that's not the way to wire correctly the insulated part of the cable should completely cover the exposed copper to it's entry into the wire hole in the device.
Thank you for this. My friend was actually looking for something like this and no one has recommended anything close... I remember watching this show 25 years ago with my dad.
As far as remote sensors go, many houses have wiring for land-line phones to multiple rooms. I have not used my land lines for several years now, since every family member has a cell of their own. The existing lines could be Isolated from the telephone network and repurposed to connect remote sensors to the central interface. Locations may not be ideal but...
4:18. I might not matter in this instance. But please don't strip the insulation that far back. Plus the copper of the red wire is nicked, making it easier to break.
My T-stats run on 120. I don't know of a "solution" that wouldn't require transformers and relays. But I get along very well with just simple programmable units that don't risk hacking. Batteries last years.
It’s why it’s often better, but more work, to install in conduit if you ever think a cable might need an upgraded in the future and to change the cable would mean a lot of redecorating work But rarely do ppl use conduit
@@GeeTheBuilder … You make a good point but 40 + years ago who would have though about adding AC or a digital T-stat? I mean, 20 years ago it was common to pull a 5 wire to a T-stat and only use what you needed at the moment. IOW, you had spares for the future, but you just know (gut feeling) that some wise guy will come along in the next 20 years and that will be obsolete as well. People are paying extra right now to pull CAT-5 wire for smart appliances and over the next generation that too will change.
Interesting device. I had a similar issue with my Nest thermostat and old 2 wire boiler. I ran wires to a new location and used an external transformer to power my thermostat.
The thermostat being installed in this video is a Tekmar Invita 564 WiFi thermostat. Looking online the reviews are mixed and seems like some experienced internet connectivity issues.
Why would you install it on the peg board instead of a more permanent location like one of those studs? You also take up space on the peg board. Also, too much installation was stripped off. You can easily short the wires.
This is my issue as well. First zone goes to first floor with 2-wire. I have a second zone on the second floor that thermostat wire was never run to (???), so I bought a wire and ran it up there, outside the walls, which looks lovely. Ideal solution is thermostat at top of basement stairs with remote sensor on second floor but that needs a C wire. I need to ask my furnace guy if a C wire can be added.
This is great, but it locks you into this brand of thermostat. Another great option is the Fast-Stat Common Maker. It's a pair of devices, one at the furnace, one that hides in the wall behind your thermostat, that adds a common wire and lets you use any smart thermostat you like (Nest, Ecobee, etc).
Honeywell also has a stat that uses an interface module where you only need two wires to their thermostat. So there are a few brands similar to the one in the video.
@@TimothyNaugherdo you by chance know which Honeywell item that is? Currently trying to use a nest with the power adapter, but I do not see any of the wires (at the heater itsefl) that match the Nest instructions.
This solution is about as costly as having a professional run new wiring, in my area the estimates were $350 and up. So I went to Home Depot and bought 50 feet of 18/5 thermostat wire for $21 and fished it through the wall myself by tying it to the existing 2 wire (R and W) that the old thermostat used. I've never done it but with a little patience it's not difficult. Every connection is labelled on both the furnace and the thermostat (I need C, R and W and didn't have a C at all). You just plug the wires accordingly. Now I have both a sleek new Honeywell smart-thermostat and future proof wiring to the furnace without all the extra or a giant bill for an HVAC guy.
Your approach is probably going to work for most folks. Furnaces tend to be centrally located and thermostats tend to be centrally located, so it's usually not a complicated run from one to the other. However, some folks have houses that are labyrinthian and trying to pull new wires after old might simply be impossible. Another alternative is to just move the thermostat someplace where it can be more easily connected to the furnace and then use a remote sensor to get a temperature reading that's more representative of the centroid of the house. In this case, the sensor could have gone where the thermostat is (only needs two wires), and the thermostat could have gone down in the basement.
@@greg_216 Agreed, I knew it would work because it had already been done, I could trace the wire and see it was a straight shot. Had I not been able to run the wire up the wall I would have simply gotten a thermostat that communicates to sensors and moved it to a basement wall. I might replace this thermostat now because it doesn't support sensors and there is a slight, but noticeable temperature difference between upstairs and down. At any rate, it would be better to do the labor yourself than to pay a HVAC guy to do it because they will charge a pretty penny for what really is a moderately difficult, DIY job. Put the money into better technology instead.
That's the *right* way to do it in the grand scheme of things. It always amazes me the lengths builders will go to in order to save a bit of money while at the same time making simple tasks SO much harder - they could probably have run 4 or 5 wire, at a cost of pennies per foot (at the time) and just left all the spare wires in the wall for future proofing. I had a similar situation upgrading my tstats a couple years ago, but the builder had run 7 wire to the second floor but only 4 wire to the first floor. So, getting a C wire to the second floor was easy (just connect to C terminal) but getting one to the first floor required another run of cable. In my new place, it seems I will have to run new cabling to the second floor as it's 2 wire only, and I don't want to be tied to one of these esoteric tstats, and I also don't want "add a wire" transformers looking ugly all over the place. It's not that bad though, as I had also planned on running a central conduit from the attic to the basement to facilitate ethernet wiring; a few small TC wires won't take up much space.
jej3451 Because it’s not always convenient to wire it up. I leased a condo and it had five wires but if it only had two I’d happily use something that needed batteries. There are many different situations but I’m laughing at the battery comment. I have a battery powered door lock with fingerprint reader that’s been going for almost a year and is still over 50% and it gets exercised all day long.
The European version of the Nest thermostat uses WIFI and two wires for power. Nearby the heater there is the Nest Heatlink which has all the connections. Similar to the thermostat in this video. Best of two worlds.
Been struggling since i dont have a control board just messy wire connections. Have 3 wires to thermostat one unused but it looks like it was connected to a ground but snipped.
Nests have an internal battery that can allow it to work with a two wire system like this. The downside is it can only charge when calling for heat so you may lose your Wi-Fi connection during the summer as it will stoptransmitting to keep from killing the battery. You can pull it off the wall and charge it up with a USB cable though when getting ready for winter or manually turn on the heat the first time of the season and it will reconnect when it's finished charging.
@Joe Kinchicken I think most people already understand that. It's more of a question of professional workmanship, which is where Trethewey fell short (no pun intended).
Oh man I hate showing up on a call and seeing a nest, nest belong in trees guys not as a thermostat! Tekmar is a good control though glad he chose that instead. 😊 I would’ve used an EIM module by Honeywell for that and a Honeywell 8000, but nice work anyway. Also probably would’ve cut those wires back so you don’t see any of the conductors.
Big issue is new stats maintain within.5 degrees, which leads to constant on and off. Too much cycling! Why can’t manufacturers use heat anticipators like the old Honeywell types. I did just that and now have a 2 degree swing which has reduced my cycling in half. I’m talking Michigan weather too! I don’t notice the swing at all!!
I love how he has a Nest Thermostat and doesn’t use it even though it will work with only the two wires. Also it’s a lot cheaper than what he’s installing
@@scrapmetal58 The nest has a battery and charges the battery whenever it calls for heat. When the battery is low but no heat is needed, it pulses the wire to charge, but (hopefully) not trigger the furnace to turn on. This has had mixed results depending on the furnace.
Could have just used a flex bit and drilled down into the basement from inside the wall and ran a new wire. Also why did he strip so much of the wire back on the thermostat it looks like the wires will short together
I just had this same thermostat installed with my new furnace and heat pump. A word to the wise, this thermostat relays on the internet for the outside temperature. It does not really update the outside temperature correctly. It has been off by 10 degrees for me and yes the zip code is correct. If I go in and refresh the zip code it will pull the proper temperature again. They make a outside sensor, I think I’ll be asking my service person who installed this put it in. As I need it to read properly so my heat pump or furnace kicks on during certain temperatures outside.
Go with an Ecobee. They have an adapter for the C wire for these older systems so you can have power, and it comes included in the box. You just attach the adapter to the furnace control board. And the sensors are wireless, way easier then this one
I have 5 wires one wire is not connected. I can put the wire to c at the thermostat. My computer board only has three slots never could find where to connect it at the furnace.
My existing thermostat only has red, blue, and white connected. The yellow and green wires are there, but not connected to the existing thermostat. Should I connect these to my amazon smart thermostat?
He could have still used his two wire heat only setup and just changed his thermostat. I use a programable wifi connected Nest thermostat with just the two wire (red and white), gets the battery charging power from the 24vac on the red wire, works fine.
True, but the battery only charges when the thermostat is used. If the wifi is used often, the battery drains. That’s why they recommend adding a common wire or a transformer to supply constant 24v to keep the battery charged.
@@howtodoitdude1662 what is the product he's installing in the basement? I have electric baseboard heat with old analog thermostats in each room, but I only use the heat in 2 of the rooms, the living room and bathroom, anyway I'd been hoping to install a smart thermostat to control those 2 or install 2 thermostats whichever, but I only have the 2 wires also and was wondering what products he's using?
generally yes, the hub in the basement can manage up to 4 heat stages with a heat pump, 2 stages cooling, fan, reversing valve, accessory, and 3 external sensors
Everyone doesn't have old wiring and thermostats. For those people the thermostat companies should make it easier on people. They should make wall plates that will work with a variety of front plates
I've got 2 wire 220v baseboard heat thermostats - I want to put in wifi controlled ones, but the only ones I see are about 90.00 to 150.00. Since each room of the house has its own heater and controller, I'm looking at around 1000.00. Suggestions on doing this cheaper?
So those 2 existing wires are now purely for digital communication between the hub (near the furnace downstairs) and the new thermostat box (upstairs)? For future if we need to add cooling systems, fan wire, etc. that would be the wiring between the hub and the furnace only? I assume this is the exclusive product features for this "tekmar"?
Will any thermostat be compatible once the module is installed? I already have this configuration but would like to replace my thermostat without changing anything in the furnace room.
You may be interested in this. This will work with any smart thermostat. If you do not have a "C" wire, moat smart thermostats will not work. This frees up a wire. www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Add+c+wire&qid=1602566533&sr=8-3
"Usually when you think of smart thermostats, you're thinking of this really sleek looking Nest" "Ok, great" "But instead we're going to install this chunky, ugly, way less user friendly one" "Oh"
While it's good for an upgrade, I kinda like the idea of, in a new build or "bare stud remodel" such as what's normally shown on This Old House, that "mother box", acting as the "central control unit" of the HVAC System while the thermostat(s) can be simpler. Basically, in a server-client model, that "mother box" is the "server", while the various thermostats and/or temp sensors are the "clients". Also, if you ever wanted/needed to upgrade it, swapping out the (one) "mother box" seems easier than swapping however many "thermostat controls". Don't get me wrong, I would still want to run the wires to each thermostat, but this still seems like a better setup, overall.
Hi, the C wire was not connected on the furance for my old thermostat, when I connect the C wire for my new thermostat the heater will not come on. I have three wire, W, Rh, and C wires. Any idea what is the problem? Thank you much, Stanly.
I wish you could how totell us how to update our Trane XL950 controller, without calling the local Trane dealer. When I bought this unit, it could be done using the internet. The instructions originally said you could download the update to an SD card, then put it in the controller. I've had several Trane dealers say they do not know how to do this, while others want you to pay for a service call for them to come out and see if it can be updated. What a scam. Please help.
I have a Honeywell T5 thermostat and when it cycles on to begin heating, the power gets cut off to the thermostat; the screen goes blank for about 20 seconds until it reboots. I've checked all of my wiring but still can't figure out what is happening...any ideas?
My guess ps the Transformer supplying the power is too small when it calls for heat the relay coil is asking for more amps than the transformer can supply so your voltage drops and falls below the required voltage to power your T5 thermostat thus causing the unit to reboot. ( when power is first applied to a relay coil it briefly acts as a short.)
@@Arieeeee hmm I did not know it could damage my equipment, thanks for the info. We bought out house with original furnace from 1964 so we did plan on switching it out at some point.
@@idcccccccc The jury is still out about whether it actually causes damage or not but the possibility is there so it's good to be informed. You might also be able to add a secondary transformer for the thermostat itself so it's powered.
Well seems like you skipped a couple key parts. Where did the wire come from leading to the peg board that is 10 ft from the thermostat and was that a new wire leading from the furnace? Shouldn't skip steps when giving instructions on electrical
I just looked up this product, it is wireless isn't it? You're pretty much providing power by the existing wires and then have a wireless communication for everything else.
So the whole point of this thermostat is that running wires from the unit to the furnace could be troublesome? The furnace was compatible to run the needed wires so why not just tie and tape a 18/5 wire to the existing 18/2 wire and pull through the staples? Ive done it a couple times and it never fails, seems like a lot of unneeded work /:
some wires are stapled, run thru multiple floors, or walls and while can be done, not all the time, and heaven forbid if the splice gets stuck or seperates. this is a fast easy solution
Yes. An HVAC contractor. Get a small DAT style or furnace style 24v transformer and switch that through a thermostat to the contractor in a metal box all properly grounded with proper conduit. Contractor in box switches high voltage with the 24v call. Then you can use ANY thermostat
The old thermostat uses a bimetallic temperature sensor, and the switch is still mercury filled for make and break of the circuit. The comment was that some thermostats use mercury. Line voltage thermostats do not always use mercury bulbs in older thermostats. Low voltage thermostats for many years almost always had mercury.switches.
Hired a professional plumber to install, after about 2 hours said this was not compatible with my Independence boiler. But hey, I got two free holes in my wall for my trouble.
Fill the holes with some plaster.
@@PyroShields For the love of God its sarcasm you liberal tart.
it might've helped if you showed how the original wires were connected to the furnace relay.
A good practice is to snip the bare wire shorter so there's non visible once connected to the faceplate. There looked to be at least 5-10mm bare wire shown at 5.58 and these could easily connect and cause a short or even a fire when pushing the housing back into position. This is why the wire has the plastic insulation in the first place.
I thought they left those wires a little long myself.
@@Ampacityelectric I can't imagine there's enough amperage to start a fire even if they touched but I like the practice. Cut corners here it's a short trip to doing it elsewhere.
@@Ampacityelectric I wasn't referring to arcing. I was saying that without enough amperage a low voltage wire like this won't start a fire even if the wires touch. For instance a 12v wire won't create a large arc but it sure will start a fire with enough amps and a dead short. EDIT: I guess I should add "and with a conductor this size".
An even better practice is to choose your battles buddy. There's no danger in that installation at all.
@@davepane7306 no point in having the wire insulated at all then is there if there's no danger. It's there for a reason.
I bought one of these for a little more than $225. Works great and installed as easily as Richard's did. I too only need it for furnace, no AC.
@Hello Russwig how are you doing
I need to do the same - since I’m skimming through this info what is the brand that you got that works for you -appreciate it✅💯😊
@@Kuwandi it's a Watts 561. Works great! Easy to install.
$225? 😮
@@kalijasin for a WiFi thermostat, at the time, it was a pretty decent price.
I learned more in the comments than I did in the video. There are so many variables in this kind of installation, I quess that this shows us a basic install. Probably the biggest issue is whether you and your wife like the same temperature not so much if you can use your phone to set the stat!
Strange location, that thermostat box on a toolboard. Toolboards are meant for tools not for thermostat boxes. And he should have cut off a bit of the copper going into that box at 4:50. It will be ok, but leaving so much bare copper sticking out is a bad habbit.
nhcq in my area it won't pass code resting on ducting
Not to mention, if the homeowner wants to reconfigure his tool storage, he has to remove the box to get the pegboard off.
That is what we call lack of quality of work. Someone that cared about the way their work looked would have cleaned the exposed copper up.
A house fire waiting to happen,that's not the way to wire correctly the insulated part of the cable should completely cover the exposed copper to it's entry into the wire hole in the device.
And should have trimmed the wire upstairs.
Absolute hacker.
Cool option for older homes. But seriously the best part of the video was the the baby picture behind them!
LOL
I agree. So cute!
Thank you for this. My friend was actually looking for something like this and no one has recommended anything close... I remember watching this show 25 years ago with my dad.
😳 25 years ago.
What is the name of the product use in the video?
Tekmar WiFi Thermostat 561
As far as remote sensors go, many houses have wiring for land-line phones to multiple rooms. I have not used my land lines for several years now, since every family member has a cell of their own. The existing lines could be Isolated from the telephone network and repurposed to connect remote sensors to the central interface. Locations may not be ideal but...
Interesting idea. Might work for cable coax as well. Hmmm?
4:18. I might not matter in this instance. But please don't strip the insulation that far back. Plus the copper of the red wire is nicked, making it easier to break.
Glad the setup was so easy! Turn the power on and the app will install itself and pair to the thermostat!
Al's oil installed a new Roth oil tank, and digital thermostat in my home. $2,800. They did an excellent job.
My T-stats run on 120. I don't know of a "solution" that wouldn't require transformers and relays. But I get along very well with just simple programmable units that don't risk hacking. Batteries last years.
What is the brand of thermostat you're using? Also, would this work on a steam boiler?
Most old wires are probably stapled on and run thru tiny holes, otherwise you could use the old wire to pull a new one.
It’s why it’s often better, but more work, to install in conduit if you ever think a cable might need an upgraded in the future and to change the cable would mean a lot of redecorating work
But rarely do ppl use conduit
Joe Stacks it has to be stapled
@@GeeTheBuilder … You make a good point but 40 + years ago who would have though about adding AC or a digital T-stat? I mean, 20 years ago it was common to pull a 5 wire to a T-stat and only use what you needed at the moment. IOW, you had spares for the future, but you just know (gut feeling) that some wise guy will come along in the next 20 years and that will be obsolete as well. People are paying extra right now to pull CAT-5 wire for smart appliances and over the next generation that too will change.
Still probably worth fishing new cable, even if it means abandoning the old 2-wire cable.
It looks like it would have been pretty easy fishing a new line to that thermostat.
Can different zone thermostats be connected the module ? Is the thermostat programmable for off/on? Thanks.
Interesting device. I had a similar issue with my Nest thermostat and old 2 wire boiler. I ran wires to a new location and used an external transformer to power my thermostat.
How did you hook it up
I have the same issue, can you explain how you did yours?
@@evanski2271 gotta run a common wire… it’s just a constant 24v off of the appliances transformer
The thermostat being installed in this video is a Tekmar Invita 564 WiFi thermostat.
Looking online the reviews are mixed and seems like some experienced internet connectivity issues.
Richard is a much better plumber than he is an electrician
Way too much copper showing when he fitted the wires to the new unit in the pegboard.
Doesn't matter because there's not enough voltage to do anything.
It's a 24 volt relay, no big deal
Both (at the time of writing) comments saying “it doesn’t matter” are completely missing the point. Good practice is good practice with electrics.
Plumbers usually install furnaces and wiring for the furnace NOT electricians.
@@gloriamaiolini9507 and? what’s your point?
Why would you install it on the peg board instead of a more permanent location like one of those studs? You also take up space on the peg board.
Also, too much installation was stripped off. You can easily short the wires.
Yes the fact that he mounted it on the peg board, didn't seem quite right to me either. But then again I've seen worse workmanship unfortunately.
so you can’t run a nest on an older style 2 wire system for heat only ?
Does this work with Oil Heat/Burner and a water based Baseboard heating? I also just have 2 wires and it's line voltage.
This is my issue as well. First zone goes to first floor with 2-wire. I have a second zone on the second floor that thermostat wire was never run to (???), so I bought a wire and ran it up there, outside the walls, which looks lovely. Ideal solution is thermostat at top of basement stairs with remote sensor on second floor but that needs a C wire. I need to ask my furnace guy if a C wire can be added.
This is great, but it locks you into this brand of thermostat. Another great option is the Fast-Stat Common Maker. It's a pair of devices, one at the furnace, one that hides in the wall behind your thermostat, that adds a common wire and lets you use any smart thermostat you like (Nest, Ecobee, etc).
Honeywell also has a stat that uses an interface module where you only need two wires to their thermostat. So there are a few brands similar to the one in the video.
@@TimothyNaugherdo you by chance know which Honeywell item that is? Currently trying to use a nest with the power adapter, but I do not see any of the wires (at the heater itsefl) that match the Nest instructions.
This solution is about as costly as having a professional run new wiring, in my area the estimates were $350 and up.
So I went to Home Depot and bought 50 feet of 18/5 thermostat wire for $21 and fished it through the wall myself by tying it to the existing 2 wire (R and W) that the old thermostat used. I've never done it but with a little patience it's not difficult. Every connection is labelled on both the furnace and the thermostat (I need C, R and W and didn't have a C at all). You just plug the wires accordingly. Now I have both a sleek new Honeywell smart-thermostat and future proof wiring to the furnace without all the extra or a giant bill for an HVAC guy.
Your approach is probably going to work for most folks. Furnaces tend to be centrally located and thermostats tend to be centrally located, so it's usually not a complicated run from one to the other. However, some folks have houses that are labyrinthian and trying to pull new wires after old might simply be impossible.
Another alternative is to just move the thermostat someplace where it can be more easily connected to the furnace and then use a remote sensor to get a temperature reading that's more representative of the centroid of the house. In this case, the sensor could have gone where the thermostat is (only needs two wires), and the thermostat could have gone down in the basement.
@@greg_216 Agreed, I knew it would work because it had already been done, I could trace the wire and see it was a straight shot. Had I not been able to run the wire up the wall I would have simply gotten a thermostat that communicates to sensors and moved it to a basement wall. I might replace this thermostat now because it doesn't support sensors and there is a slight, but noticeable temperature difference between upstairs and down.
At any rate, it would be better to do the labor yourself than to pay a HVAC guy to do it because they will charge a pretty penny for what really is a moderately difficult, DIY job. Put the money into better technology instead.
There is also an "add-a-wire" device that creates a "virtual" 3rd wire over the two existing wires. It's a lot less expensive than this thing.
@@pauldzim True the Honeywell T9 comes packed with one I believe.
That's the *right* way to do it in the grand scheme of things. It always amazes me the lengths builders will go to in order to save a bit of money while at the same time making simple tasks SO much harder - they could probably have run 4 or 5 wire, at a cost of pennies per foot (at the time) and just left all the spare wires in the wall for future proofing.
I had a similar situation upgrading my tstats a couple years ago, but the builder had run 7 wire to the second floor but only 4 wire to the first floor. So, getting a C wire to the second floor was easy (just connect to C terminal) but getting one to the first floor required another run of cable. In my new place, it seems I will have to run new cabling to the second floor as it's 2 wire only, and I don't want to be tied to one of these esoteric tstats, and I also don't want "add a wire" transformers looking ugly all over the place.
It's not that bad though, as I had also planned on running a central conduit from the attic to the basement to facilitate ethernet wiring; a few small TC wires won't take up much space.
7:18 Richard with wise words on why wireless isn't always the best.
Glad I wasn't the only one who noticed that
Lol. Battery technology is fine these days.
@@lordgarth1 Who wants to have to change batteries when you can just wire it up and forget about it?
jej3451 Because it’s not always convenient to wire it up. I leased a condo and it had five wires but if it only had two I’d happily use something that needed batteries. There are many different situations but I’m laughing at the battery comment. I have a battery powered door lock with fingerprint reader that’s been going for almost a year and is still over 50% and it gets exercised all day long.
The European version of the Nest thermostat uses WIFI and two wires for power. Nearby the heater there is the Nest Heatlink which has all the connections. Similar to the thermostat in this video. Best of two worlds.
Been struggling since i dont have a control board just messy wire connections. Have 3 wires to thermostat one unused but it looks like it was connected to a ground but snipped.
I saw videos where people directly connect the two wires to the Nest thermostat to W & R why we need the HVAC Interface module 564 ?
will this work on a nest..???? I only have two wires and an old oil blow air furnace
Nests have an internal battery that can allow it to work with a two wire system like this. The downside is it can only charge when calling for heat so you may lose your Wi-Fi connection during the summer as it will stoptransmitting to keep from killing the battery. You can pull it off the wall and charge it up with a USB cable though when getting ready for winter or manually turn on the heat the first time of the season and it will reconnect when it's finished charging.
its a proprietary communications, both parts are sold together and the nest lacks any communications protocol in it to work withthe HuB
What’s the name of the Hub that is mounted to the peg board. I have a similar Honeywell system like this with no C wire for heat only.
Seeing him leaving that much of the power wires stripped makes me quite uneasy.
Yes! Sloppy!
@Joe Kinchicken I think most people already understand that. It's more of a question of professional workmanship, which is where Trethewey fell short (no pun intended).
Yea I didn't like that either
It’s low voltage, nothing will happen
Krish Maharaj that’s irrellevant, it’s bad practice and a short is a short regardless of voltage.
Oh man I hate showing up on a call and seeing a nest, nest belong in trees guys not as a thermostat! Tekmar is a good control though glad he chose that instead. 😊 I would’ve used an EIM module by Honeywell for that and a Honeywell 8000, but nice work anyway. Also probably would’ve cut those wires back so you don’t see any of the conductors.
Question...
What if my furnace only has two wires marked "T" for thermostat?
your furnace has a transformer in it that can power the 564. you may need a tech to assist you in locating that
My baseboard heater (208/230 ) wall thermostat also has only 2 wire. Any suggestion?
But what do you do if you have radiant ceiling heat? No furnace, just straight electrical heating?
Can i replace wall mount controller kjr 12b with this ?
I have been doing it all wrong. I just stripped the wires to just outside the connector. I now realize that there should be no insulation at all.
Haha 🤣
Live and learn, right?
wholeNwon exactly. always open to admit when I have been doing something wrong.
How do you hook up if you have a hvac system?
I think you need more cooper showing on those terminals
Big issue is new stats maintain within.5 degrees, which leads to constant on and off. Too much cycling! Why can’t manufacturers use heat anticipators like the old Honeywell types. I did just that and now have a 2 degree swing which has reduced my cycling in half. I’m talking Michigan weather too! I don’t notice the swing at all!!
When I try to program my T4 Pro thermostat when I press Menu there is no option for PROG. Help!
Thank you, clean helpful info on a now ever increasingly common problem. Wish I saw this years ago, would have saved me a few burned out transformers.
It is Tekmar, May I know the thermostat model or where I can buy it plz?
what happened to the nest one?? are you claiming that you can only do this with the tekmar??
I had to chuckle at Richard drilling pilot holes for those 1" screws that just bite into drywall. Why?
Because he's a hacker
I would the same. It helps keep the screw going where you want it. Straight.
The white Nest E thermostat runs fine with a 2 wire system. Or at least mine has for 2 years. Just charge it before you instal it.
I love how he has a Nest Thermostat and doesn’t use it even though it will work with only the two wires. Also it’s a lot cheaper than what he’s installing
I have a two wire setup using a nest, works like you said
Tim Barnett was thinking the same exact thing lol.
Wait, how do you get it to work with just two? Please help I want to get one and only have the two wires (baseboard heaters)
Yes it's cheaper but you forfeit the fan only modes with forced air systems on 2/4 wire setups.
@@scrapmetal58 The nest has a battery and charges the battery whenever it calls for heat. When the battery is low but no heat is needed, it pulses the wire to charge, but (hopefully) not trigger the furnace to turn on. This has had mixed results depending on the furnace.
Could have just used a flex bit and drilled down into the basement from inside the wall and ran a new wire. Also why did he strip so much of the wire back on the thermostat it looks like the wires will short together
My issue is that I don't have a c wire, can you still install this?
Nest in the UK is in two parts, the part shown is either wireless or wired with 2 wires in the house, then the base unit is installed by the boiler.
I just had this same thermostat installed with my new furnace and heat pump. A word to the wise, this thermostat relays on the internet for the outside temperature. It does not really update the outside temperature correctly. It has been off by 10 degrees for me and yes the zip code is correct. If I go in and refresh the zip code it will pull the proper temperature again. They make a outside sensor, I think I’ll be asking my service person who installed this put it in. As I need it to read properly so my heat pump or furnace kicks on during certain temperatures outside.
Go with an Ecobee. They have an adapter for the C wire for these older systems so you can have power, and it comes included in the box. You just attach the adapter to the furnace control board. And the sensors are wireless, way easier then this one
Do you have model #? I went to their web site and was not able to find the thermostat you described. Thanks.
@@richardk7379 Well this is a comment from 3 years ago, so their models have upgraded. I used the Ecobee 3 Lite, they dont manufacture that model now
@@virgil3241 it doesn't seem like much of an upgrade if it won't even work with a simple two wire system that has been around for 50 years.
@@richardk7379 Who says the wont, get the C wire adapter. Post from 3 years ago is now todays hit?
I have 5 wires one wire is not connected. I can put the wire to c at the thermostat. My computer board only has three slots never could find where to connect it at the furnace.
I thought Richard was a plumber not a sparky??? In the US, is he allowed to do sparky work as well?
My existing thermostat only has red, blue, and white connected. The yellow and green wires are there, but not connected to the existing thermostat. Should I connect these to my amazon smart thermostat?
Great video and I think this will help convince my In-Laws to make the upgrade, I think I can do it too, thanks a lot.
I thought blue was usually associated with heat pumps and that black was the more usual color for the "C" wire....?
Interesting solution, this could have saved me a few months ago while working with a client
Honeywell's Redlink system also does the same thing.
He could have still used his two wire heat only setup and just changed his thermostat. I use a programable wifi connected Nest thermostat with just the two wire (red and white), gets the battery charging power from the 24vac on the red wire, works fine.
True, but the battery only charges when the thermostat is used. If the wifi is used often, the battery drains. That’s why they recommend adding a common wire or a transformer to supply constant 24v to keep the battery charged.
@@howtodoitdude1662 what is the product he's installing in the basement? I have electric baseboard heat with old analog thermostats in each room, but I only use the heat in 2 of the rooms, the living room and bathroom, anyway I'd been hoping to install a smart thermostat to control those 2 or install 2 thermostats whichever, but I only have the 2 wires also and was wondering what products he's using?
I have an old Lennox heat pump, 6-7 wires to the t’stat, will this work on this system?
generally yes, the hub in the basement can manage up to 4 heat stages with a heat pump, 2 stages cooling, fan, reversing valve, accessory, and 3 external sensors
Everyone doesn't have old wiring and thermostats. For those people the thermostat companies should make it easier on people. They should make wall plates that will work with a variety of front plates
To much copper visible
doesnt the nest he shown on the table still work with the 2 wire heating systems? Nest websites says common wire not required
True!
I've got 2 wire 220v baseboard heat thermostats - I want to put in wifi controlled ones, but the only ones I see are about 90.00 to 150.00. Since each room of the house has its own heater and controller, I'm looking at around 1000.00. Suggestions on doing this cheaper?
Look for a multi zone control unit.
That’s prob a line voltage thermostat…. I would be careful if I was you
What is the name (brand) of the new device?
What if your furnace is a gas wall heater?
So those 2 existing wires are now purely for digital communication between the hub (near the furnace downstairs) and the new thermostat box (upstairs)? For future if we need to add cooling systems, fan wire, etc. that would be the wiring between the hub and the furnace only? I assume this is the exclusive product features for this "tekmar"?
correct, no changes are needed, all wiring now takes place in the mechanical room at the HUB.
What was the product that you used?
Where do I get the hub box? It isn’t listed in the parts section.
its a tekmar 564 (white) or 564B (black) sold as a set
If only they posted a link to the product they Used!
I wonder if identical solution works if one has 4 wires but not the C wire...
When you said "It's got smarts", I pictured Rodger saying "Smaahts"
lol, I think the word he's looking for was "brain."
Great video!
Where does a guy buy a hub? Thanks
I have all electric heat with a thermostat in every room. Is this "smart" thing for me also ?
No, you have more effective heating control now
Will any thermostat be compatible once the module is installed? I already have this configuration but would like to replace my thermostat without changing anything in the furnace room.
You may be interested in this. This will work with any smart thermostat. If you do not have a "C" wire, moat smart thermostats will not work. This frees up a wire.
www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Add+c+wire&qid=1602566533&sr=8-3
no, the communications is proprietary, and sold as a unit
@@jaredwilliams8621 look at the specs, cannot be used in a 2 wire. last line in product description
"Usually when you think of smart thermostats, you're thinking of this really sleek looking Nest"
"Ok, great"
"But instead we're going to install this chunky, ugly, way less user friendly one"
"Oh"
Even when the nest supports two wire systems 😬😬😬😬
The nest is garbage. Turn off the scheduling and still wake up sweating because it’s set its self to 70 when you set it at 65. It’s going away today…
Except with the Nest, you support an evil company whose entire business model is selling your data.
@@uclajd
Yeah, because supporting companies like Honeywell or Emerson is way better, give me a break.
@@coryturner9140
I never had this problem with my Nest learning thermostat.
While it's good for an upgrade, I kinda like the idea of, in a new build or "bare stud remodel" such as what's normally shown on This Old House, that "mother box", acting as the "central control unit" of the HVAC System while the thermostat(s) can be simpler. Basically, in a server-client model, that "mother box" is the "server", while the various thermostats and/or temp sensors are the "clients". Also, if you ever wanted/needed to upgrade it, swapping out the (one) "mother box" seems easier than swapping however many "thermostat controls". Don't get me wrong, I would still want to run the wires to each thermostat, but this still seems like a better setup, overall.
Is the "hub" also called a "c wire adapter"?
Hi, the C wire was not connected on the furance for my old thermostat, when I connect the C wire for my new thermostat the heater will not come on. I have three wire, W, Rh, and C wires. Any idea what is the problem? Thank you much, Stanly.
You sure you ran the wire to the right terminal?
lol just like others have said, why on the peg board?? i would hate that
Could someone please let me know the name of this thermostat
Tekmar
That old thermostat is the same model I removed from my house last week.
I wish you could how totell us how to update our Trane XL950 controller, without calling the local Trane dealer. When I bought this unit, it could be done using the internet. The instructions originally said you could download the update to an SD card, then put it in the controller. I've had several Trane dealers say they do not know how to do this, while others want you to pay for a service call for them to come out and see if it can be updated. What a scam. Please help.
I have a Honeywell T5 thermostat and when it cycles on to begin heating, the power gets cut off to the thermostat; the screen goes blank for about 20 seconds until it reboots. I've checked all of my wiring but still can't figure out what is happening...any ideas?
My guess ps the Transformer supplying the power is too small when it calls for heat the relay coil is asking for more amps than the transformer can supply so your voltage drops and falls below the required voltage to power your T5 thermostat thus causing the unit to reboot. ( when power is first applied to a relay coil it briefly acts as a short.)
I have a nest with out a C wire working perfectly. This is extra but sure it's good for some applications
google "power stealing" and its dangers. It may work, but it can also shorten the life of your equipement.
@@Arieeeee hmm I did not know it could damage my equipment, thanks for the info. We bought out house with original furnace from 1964 so we did plan on switching it out at some point.
@@idcccccccc The jury is still out about whether it actually causes damage or not but the possibility is there so it's good to be informed. You might also be able to add a secondary transformer for the thermostat itself so it's powered.
Well seems like you skipped a couple key parts. Where did the wire come from leading to the peg board that is 10 ft from the thermostat and was that a new wire leading from the furnace? Shouldn't skip steps when giving instructions on electrical
Nerd question! Anyone know what protocol it speaks across the wire?
What if you have no space to add a Blue Wire to the furnace?
if you have a 4 wire system, you could change the fan wire to a C Power wire. The fan turns on automatically when the thermostat calls for heat or AC
No it doesn’t. The thermostat powers the fan for cooling. (Heat fan kicks on by time, cool and fan on, is controlled by the thermostat)
I just looked up this product, it is wireless isn't it? You're pretty much providing power by the existing wires and then have a wireless communication for everything else.
He is right. If you go wireless the batteries will drain quick.
What’s the range distance on the tekmar?
5:18. Drilling 2 inches deep above and below the wires when the wires probably run one of those directions. He got lucky 🍀.
Letz just mount diz here on da particle board 🤔🤔😂😂
What’s name of that product ?!’
So the whole point of this thermostat is that running wires from the unit to the furnace could be troublesome?
The furnace was compatible to run the needed wires so why not just tie and tape a 18/5 wire to the existing 18/2 wire and pull through the staples? Ive done it a couple times and it never fails, seems like a lot of unneeded work /:
some wires are stapled, run thru multiple floors, or walls and while can be done, not all the time, and heaven forbid if the splice gets stuck or seperates. this is a fast easy solution
I love how he uses a old battery drill instead of a impact
Do you have any recommendations for a thermostat that is a power switch for a 240V 1950s baseboard heater?
Check out the Lux ELV4d. It MIGHT work for your app. but I'm not sure of the exact specs and obviously don't know your exact requirements.
Yes. An HVAC contractor. Get a small DAT style or furnace style 24v transformer and switch that through a thermostat to the contractor in a metal box all properly grounded with proper conduit. Contractor in box switches high voltage with the 24v call. Then you can use ANY thermostat
The old thermostat uses a bimetallic temperature sensor, and the switch is still mercury filled for make and break of the circuit. The comment was that some thermostats use mercury. Line voltage thermostats do not always use mercury bulbs in older thermostats. Low voltage thermostats for many years almost always had mercury.switches.
I love those old analog things. They remind me of the "space age" before transistors were built. Or even earlier.