Building an ALUMINUM Sailboat Pt 13 - Corrosion Prevention | EP 233
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We've been getting lots of questions about corrosion on aluminum boats and how quality yachts deal with this issue. Today we look at some of the methods used to address this on our new aluminium Enksail Orion 49 sailboat. We also talk a surveyor who comes to see the new boat while in build to certify she meets CE specifications.
00:00 Introduction
00:43 What is Electrolysis?
01:09 Zinc Anodes
01:31 Keel Pin Pivot
02:40 Prop Shaft
03:57 Stanchion Bases
04:38 Reduce Pooling Water
06:14 Double Glazed Windows
06:52 NordVPN Sponsor
08:20 Interior aluminum completion
11:40 CE Survey for Certification
15:05 Sail with us in the Netherlands
16:29 Conclusion
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When building aluminium boats in South Africa, a company (name left out for reason) poured Lead directly into the keel box. They did not use any liner, nor did they use any other method to isolate the Lead from the aluminium. A few years on and the boat was taking on water and had to be pulled out and they found that the lead had reacted with the aluminium causing lots of corrosion. The company had sealed the lead with a top plate and only minimum water sat in the bilge but was enough to start the process. The repair ($60,000) was comprised of cutting off the keel, building a new box around the existing poured lead keel which was epoxied and isolated before installing into the new box. After seeing the repair I understood that poured lead has a possible problem.
Your new build is going to be beautiful boat and congratulations on the new build!
Excellent video. But I do not understand how, in the case of Distant Shores IV, the poured lead will be isolated from its aluminum enclosure. How is the Dutch construction method going to avoid the deficiency of the South African builder you are describing in this comment?
@@arthursalvadore I am waiting to see as well Arthur. If the Lead was bricked first in a mold then transferred to their new boat which had the areas epoxied that might work.
Please discuss the Corrosion Prevention related to the mast stays and the anchor chain(s)!
When I was about college-age most of the West Coast of America alloy Boats were hitting 25 to 30 years old. I made a lot of money paying for college chopping rotted aluminum out of the bottoms of mid-eighties to early 90s boats. Postmortem the biggest issue is pooled water, that killed more boats than anything else. Isolation is fine, but in my experience it slows but does not fully stop corrosion. Duramax makes synthetic Stern bearings that I would have preferred over a coated bronze one.
The other issue that we always ran into was Plumbing, the market doesn't really realize just how set up production lines are for glass boats but not so much for aluminum. Ended up going Fraser bronze with marine-grade cast aluminum Weld on through holes. But the first one I installed was in 2009 so no one really knows if it'll last longer than the old options because the issues usually show up between 20 and 30 years that's when they really start Cutting Loose.
Small point- electrolysis and galvanic corrosion are similar but not the same thing. Galvanic corrosion is caused by dissimilar metals in contact when immersed in an electrolyte. Electrolysis is the result of potential current between two objects and is usually caused by stray electrical current.
My bet is that the Delrin Moly matrix bushing used is conductive. Perhaps a non conducting bushing would be more appropriate. The Molybdenum Disulphide or graphite black coloured filler makes the Delrin conductive. Perhaps you could use a glass fibre Delrin sleeve bushing. Way more appropriate if the pivot axle is required to be electrically isolated. The enhanced bearing aspect of the Molybdenum Disulphide Delrin matrix sleeve is not required for Improved friction coefficient.
🤔 Both “the devil and excellence are always in the details”. I’ve gained an appreciation of how many details have gone into this design, especially in the area of galvanic isolation. One small question I have is: why did you not just use thick walled aluminum railing components to eliminate the complications of all those isolators? I realize that SS is shiny but all aluminum would blend with the hull and the natural oxide layer could provide grip for both hands and lines.
The keel trunk extending below the hull while slightly increasing draft and drag will on the other hand extend the poured lead lower and provide for far easier swing board pinion replacement compared to an all internal hidden arrangement.
I admired how the skeg (presumably on DS 3) protected your expensive folding prop from an inadvertent grounding or floating object or line impingement. The twin rudders have no such protection, but then there’s the old drag and balanced rudder considerations.
Is your standing rigging (mast & boom) going to be Aluminum or Carbon? Carbon is lighter and stronger but what is its sustainability to surviving lightning ⚡️ strikes?
I’m continually intrigued by the many design decisions you’ve made … perfection is never possible but optimization for a particular intent is achievable. Please keep up these detailed videos, they fascinate me. 👍 👏
I am proud to be dutch when I look at your amazing boat❤ gr elzo
Thanks Elzo - she is looking good isn't she❤️
@@DistantShoresTV yes already I think when she is finished and stil in Makkum when will take a drive to Makkum for a day trip and we wil also look at distant shores 4
Very informative re. keeping the dissimilar metals isolated from each other. How often those bushings need to be looked at and/or replaced to make sure they are still doing the job?
@ 9:51, the connection of the compression post for the mast with the upper deck. That just looked like an afterthought to me. I guess I was expecting a more direct and solid connection to the mast step. I love everything I see so far about the boat, but as a former ship/pipe welder, that just looked weak to me. Other than that, beautiful craftsmanship, makes me proud to be Dutch.
What a coincidence. Had just ordered my Tef-gel before the vid. PS: To my horror, I have seen several RVS screws screwed into the "ribs" of the ALU hull. Has it caused corrosion, undoubtedly. Have I taken as much as possible out. Of course. However, the hull is still going very strong. So conclusion, whilst I do my utmost best to prevent corrosion, I also am somewhat comforted that after 40 years of a few glitches my hull still seems solid. Thanks for this really clear vid. As an ALU owner, I love the simple explanation, of a topic so intimidating! (PS: I think the electrics is the biggest issue to be very careful with. I just am about to finish my DC runs, which are in IP44 rubber wire, inside pvc pipes. So triple instead of doubly isolated.)
Great Video. I like how you explain the details. Fun fact: I own an aluminium Yacht myself (Nordsee 49 from Dubbel & Jesse) built in 1991. I can say that - except of the swing keel - 90% of the design features are the same. Drainage using the hull for tanks, separating metlas and so on. Many things are well known and proven to be good. ⛵️ 😊
Keep the Technical Stuff Coming.
Really enjoy watching construction of aluminum boat. Watching sailing Ran in their construction of a wooden one. ( doing the complete build themselves, a 50 foot from scratch). Both extremely educational. Thank you.
There are millions of TH-cam channels. But yours is in the Top 100. Your channel is more interesting than Taylor Swift or Leave-it-to-Beaver Reruns.
Having built both wooden and epoxy/pvc sandwich boats I’m always interested in the technical aspects of a new medium like aluminium. And I just love these practical European alloy yachts. Thanks for all the details. You must be feeling confident in the outcome given both the quality and craftsmanship of the builders, along with oversight from certification authorities. Looking forward to seeing fit out and systems going in. Cheers from NZ.
very interesting and exciting to follow the construction of your new nice boat👍hope there will be several episodes with details about equipment and installations such as engine and heating system and electronics! good luck with the continued construction👍/Rolf
That's the plan Rolf! Glad you're enjoying the tech stuff!
Great video the details in isolating the metals is brilliant
Thank you for the educational and entertaining update. Our new ( adopted) boat is coming along nicely. We really appreciate your taking the time and trouble to keep us in the loop!
Another fantastic video. Distant Shores IV is looking fantastic. I've been watching for years, and I have enjoyed your adventures. I am looing forward to the new adventures in your new boat!
Very very interesting episode. Thank you!
Super job Paul & Sheryl!!!
…we look forward to her launch!!
Beautiful, impressive craftsmanship.
Interesting information. The chain locker almost need to be coated with truck bed liner.
Looking Great Paul & Sheryl. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah back again…love it and very informative
From Brisbane Australia 😊
it was interesting to see a couple of films back how impressed the other TH-camrs were by this design and sturdy construction. I think you've made a great choice. This may well end up being your 'forever boat'. Congrats.
Those technical video’s are very interesting
To be honest , it makes me a little bit proud that such beautifull boats are build in our small country 🇳🇱 👍
The boat is looking fantastic!
This will become such a pefect boat ❤❤❤
If you need someone for doing the dishes and the night watches I would live invisible in your anchor locker with my sleeping bag :-)
LOL Very nice offer :-)
Great fun to watch.
always fun... as usual!
cheers
Quality as always 👍👍
Just finished sailing from Bermuda to USVI on Collin Archer designed and Duch Build Hayat. Dutch crafstmen are exemplary. The 110m "Kaos", super yacht, which I saw in St Thomas (belonging to Wallmart family member) was also built in Holand. I enjoyed watching your video. Happy and safe sailing!
Thank you for sharing with us such info and advice and most of all for making me live my dream from my armchair through your awesome videos.
I just wish that your videos are bit longer🤞 and more often🥰
I wish you the very BEST 🤞🤞
✌❤🍀
Thanks a lot for the quality content.
Glad you enjoyed the video, Arda!
Glad to see the hull is done!
Yes its a big landmark Антон!
Great vid once again. Always get to learn something here. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Dan ❤️
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ tyvm, cheers from Squamish BC Canada. Loved ur TV show
you are welcome Dennis ❤️
cool series and amazing boat!
Cool to see a little of the CE certification process
Keep going distant shores, all olay ⚓👍
Well done series .
Thanks John!
Fascinating.
I agree with your isolation of metals, though some are better than others, example my Prop is a feathering stainless steel prop and not bronze and regarding the stanchions, I have a solid aluminum bar turned into a nice stanchions shape bow split & pushpit is an Aluminum tube pipe. A safety line is Dyneema with UV cover. Still, you will find that is not enough protection when in a marina long term due to stray currents. Your boat construction is looking just lovely..
This was very interesting indeed!
I been building ally boats for nearly 20 yrs I’m impressed with the fabrication and design and you won’t have any dramas if you use Tefgel or duralac
Lanolin is great for the interior stringers , frames ,bilges ,nuts and bolts etc etc and hidden spots 👍
Always more tech and details! 🤓
I really enjoyed this video. I wish someday to have a sailboat of my own to take family and friends like you have. Cheers
KB would make the CE inspectors job easy.
where were the CE inspectors when lagoons were glued together?
Thank you.
You're welcome Bob!
Build looks to be coming along nicely. Good workmanship shows skilled craftsmanship.
Am wondering about Maintenance Scheduling… Certainly besides haul cleaning usually every year to few years, an Aluminum Boat requires similar attention. Please explain. And what type of Aluminum is used?
Next are wearable and separation/isolation parts, ie bushing, washers, or prefabricated isolation pads. What preventive maintenance plan exists? Considering how Electric Powered everything continues to change designed systems, this surfaces new problems when connecting to Shore Power. Please clarify design schemes.
Am looking forward to learning more in future video releases.
Marty Didier
It is practical to monitor the level of galvanic protection on a vessel afloat using a silver-silver chloride reference cell and an accurate multimeter, together with continuity checks (you want 0 continuity) between isolated materials.
wow so cool
Interesting watching your build. Probably the most important piece of information about anodes on the hull which a lot of people aren’t sure about is, should it be bare material to bare material or should there be paint on the hull.
So many sailing channels garnered a solid audience with videos on the construction of their ship. As long as the full boat is in sight (it is beautiful), then of course you should keep them in the menu.
At 9:50 there os an odd-welded strip connected to the compression post (near the ceiling). Why is it welded slanted? Is this the correct procedure? Is it strong enough? And what is the reason fir such a weld?
Thank you for referencing the materials that will be used. Will you be covering the hull surface preparation and layers of coatings when the boat goes in for painting?
Sem dúvidas são os melhores barcos a vela Raiz
Water tanks are often an issue and a source of corrosion on aluminum boats due to chlorine in fresh water, are these going to be painted inside ?
Based on how much delrin is being used, a mini lathe and a good supply of stock might be a wise investment to fabricate needed parts as they wear out.
Speaking of galvanic corrosion, I hear the same is true bonding carbon fiber to aluminum. I’m guessing the same is true with titanium and aluminum. I recall reading somewhere that aluminum boats should use magnesium anodes opposed to zinc. Very interested in how the electrical system will be designed.
good video. more please.
Thanks, will do!👍
I was curious about 2 questions. In your design decisions.... What was the formula and desire format that she used in determining the amount of fuel you wanted to carry , did it have to do with boat capacity ? or closing style a style?
I have a second You're building the boat from scratch , but you really haven't covered any design , To combat lightning strikes ,, Shouldn't you be designimg into the boat , prefabricated something or another , to help ground the boat in the event of a grounding a lightning strike ? Or, to help channel a lightning strike ?
I have been waiting for this video. Thank you very much! The new boat is shaping up nicely. 🙂 Question: How long is the keel pin bushing supposed to last (average)?
You're welcome @corujariousa! I think the keel pin bushing should last many years. In our previous lift-keel boats it lasted more than 10 years. With this design it is a feature that the keel can be lowered for inspection repair more easily.
@@DistantShoresTV Thank you. Keep the videos coming and have fun with the project. Cheers.
Another really interesting and informative video. Fantastic to see what goes into these high quality boats. I love the fact you are covering all aspects from concept, builder selection, options, design, engineering and even the surveying/certification. I missed looking at the Bestevaer 53 at last years Southampton Boat Show, but wish I had now I've seen the background and quality that goes into these Dutch aluminium boats from these fabulous boat builders. Please keep these detailed videos coming - Thank you
Essa veleiro é um sonho ⛵👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thankyou 👍
You’re welcome 😊
Interesting idea given how massive/high displacement an aluminum constructed vessel can become and still be both solid/stiff and high performance/maneuverable. Looks perfect for owner operator/de minimus crew'ing
I hope companies like this can survive in the future despite to the crazy politics in Europe.
Boat is looking great. Do they do any kind of testing, like dye penetration, on the hull welds to check for cracks introduced during welding?
Please more 😀
This has to be the sexiest boat of all time. How much does one of these beauties cost? In case I win the lottery haha. Love your stuff, much love from NB, Canada.
Be interesting to see the history behind the learning process of managing dissimilar metals in a marine environment….😮
I understand the idea behind keeping dissimilar metals from touching and can see how you protected the shaft log/stern tube from the drive shaft touching but was wondering how you isolate the prop from the driveshaft?
I am surprised at how much isolation is needed to avoid the problems with dissimilar metals! I've never really had to think about it. Well, I have seen lots about replacing zinc anodes on other YT sailing channels, so that was familiar. But an aluminum sailboat has to go way beyond! Thanks for showing us the details.
PS - Has the completion date changed or are things still on schedule?
Very interesting video. Curious how the poured lead in the bilge/fixed keel area will be separated from the aluminum compartments it is poured into?
It doesn't need to be seperate because it will be sealed and no salt water will get inside. No salt water, no galvanic corrosion.
Yes @Captain Win is exactly correct...
Paul, Thank You for the explanation of how the builder is protecting the dissimilar metals interface.
Thanks for the video, very interesting. My aluminium boat has a similar construction (but smaller 😊) and the hull outside has no corrosion problems. The corrosion is in the build-in tanks. What solution do you have in your tanks for corrosion?
Does the keel pivot up? What’s your expected draft? Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks so much. The corrosion protection principles really aren't different from a fiberglass boat. As you note, all boats have dissimilar metals.
Delrin is a trade name for acetal (polyoxymethylene or POM).
How is lightning strike being addressed in an aluminum hull so that your electrical system doesn't get fried? In particular, causing lithium batteries to be shorted and cause a fire.
We will go over lightning protection in a future video but basically metal boats (either alu or steel) are much safer in lightning than any other materials. The electrical systems (future videos :-) will be well designed with the correct fuses and wire sizes to handle problems as well.
@@DistantShoresTV and j . n
hi
N n n n.... b5hhhnnnhbbbbbbbbbbbhbbbbbnbn Bhatt
KKim . n
It's always amazing to see your episodes, and it's great to see so many details on the progress of your boat construction. I am curios to know if corrosion can happen also between lead and aluminum, since you are going to fill the bottom compartments. And what about having carbon fiber components (stanchions for examples) to reduce weight and corrosion points? Could it work? waiting for the next video, thank you for sharing your experience.
Glad you like them Giampaolo! The lead will be sealed in completely so no saltwater will ever come in contact with it. So as soon as the lead is added the compartment will be welded shut again. This insures there will not be galvanic corrosion since the two metals are not close on the galvanic scale.Yes the next videos will deal with more technical details and updates so we try to stay up to date sharing the build process.
Carbon fiber can cause galvanic corrosion when in contact with aluminum through a redox reaction. Carbon fiber can be used for the mast, boom, stanchions etc. if you want to save weight but the material has to be isolated from coming into contact with aluminum. This can be done by coating the carbon fiber with a layer of fiberglass because it has no conductive property.
@@DistantShoresTV Hello, would the lead "completely" fill the compartment? I'm guessing weld/sealing would be like not vacuum sealing, some moisture will be trapped, no breather for expansion/contraction? Also, curious why stainless rather than aluminium stanchions, perhaps even rail?
✨💥✨🙏✨💥✨. Super Fan from New Hampshire. ♥
Thanks Steven! It great having you aboard ❤️
@@DistantShoresTV "Aboard" ??? really? what a thought. ✨🌸✨ Not worthy. ~ Whew!
A metal boat is just a big heat sink in cold water. How do you insulate it and still be able to inspect the inside of the aluminum hull?
Excellent question, Marc. The boat is insulated to the waterline so the hull below that is inspectable.
Hi, can you tell me who is the manufacturer of your stern tube and the clamping ring. I am looking for the exact same thing and can not find a manufacturer.
We in the UK say Stan (as in Laurel) shun.
Edit. AL (Jolson) lum (lump) in yum.
Is aluminum chosen for safety, potentially warding off lighting strikes? If not what was main reason for material compared to wood or others.
So, there's no interaction between the lead and the aluminum?
Nice presentation, well done! However, the overall environmental impact of such sailing yacht production is extremely high, so, why we should be happy from such activity ? How many people may build and use of such boat ? Anyway, sail safe and good luck!
Thanks for another great video ! Seems well thought and executed. You haven't mentioned anything re the lead ballast poured into the aluminum keel, how the metal separation is done and how the lid is welded at the end without damaging the insulation ??
Some say that magnesium is a better anode for aluminum than zinc.
👍👍👍
you did not say anything about through hull fittings and valves that are most suitable for aluminum???
There seems to be a lot of failure points if the bushings or washers give out.
Yes and No. Much more stuff is welded instead of bolted on a normal boat. All boats need to be waterproof, so all the bolt-ons are a failure point anyway. But if you start to think about it, yes many many many things can go wrong.
Indeed! It's the nature of boats that many things can go wrong and there are a number of different ways of going to sea safely. Regular checks and maintenance is important on all sea-going sailboats!
Why stainless steel instead aluminum for the keel pin?
What’s minimum age to go on the charter boat?
You missed lead next to aluminium in the keel.
Why didn't you use not aluminium stanchions? We have had them on our boat for 40 years. Incredibly strong. They mate to an aluminium toerail. No dissimilar metals.
The stanchion bases are aluminum so welded to the toe rail but we like stainless stanchions and lifelines to avoid oxygenation rubbing off on clothing. Good to learn that you have had such a great experience with yours. Thanks for your comment, Tim.
@@DistantShoresTV they are anodised. Nothing rubs off on clothes. They don't need cleaning like s/s. They don't rust. They are nicer looking as they are tapered.
Is Zinc the correct galvanic protection for aluminium....
Google gives this.
Does aluminum corrode with zinc?
Galvanic corrosion occurs when metals break down each other. If the aluminium comes into contact with a more noble metal (such as copper, zinc and certain types of steel), aluminium will be broken down.
I have personally seen a aluminum jet drive unit in a plastic boat be heavily corroded but the zink anode looked like new..... It looked like the jet drive was sacrificing its aluminium to keep the zink anode in perfect condition.