Seeing some of the corrosion damage and all the other issues that Chuffed had I was very skeptical that you would ever be able to do all the renovation work that she needed ! Now that I know how much work has been done and the time you have put into it I know I was wrong, you are one of the most determined and tenacious people I have ever heard of, you are an inspiration to us all !
I'm in a fiberglass monohull...37 ft Ketch....after watching the Finnish people in their Aluminum vessel I now want one....thanks for explaining about Aluminum.....sail safe
Doctor you have got to be the most noble person I know of on the internet and believe me I watch a lot of sailing channels and you are the queen of nobility
haha most people just talk about the difference in the nobility of metals, of course the good doctor talks about the difference in potential electrochemical voltage, which is the correct way to explain galvanic corrosion. Be sure to get a galvanic isolator for your shore power connection - it will stop stray currents from other boats from eating away at your boat/anodes when it is on shore power.
Very nicely done! That was one of the best explanations i have ever heard. I am glad you mentioned stray current in marinas. Electrocution due to stray current at marinas is the biggest reason I don't ever swim at a marina (even more dangerous in bodies of fresh water). So glad you are putting good zincs on chuffed. She will thank you!
Marina close to ours, mother and daughter were electrocuted from their own aluminum boat because father wired the ground improperly...water around boat was charged when they jumped into water. Almost all marinas have stray electrons in the water. Never swim in marina water.
A "must" on an aluminum (or steel) boat is an isolation transformer. Not a galvanic isolator, that helps too, but an isolation transformer. Only this a 100% protection against stray currents in a marina, from either faulty marina installations or faulty installations on other boats.
@@VetTails Yes, you are right. But why do you have no shore power? It is the most convenient and quickest way of charging your batteries, when you are in a marina. If the reason for not having shore power is the threat of galvanic corrosion from various marina sources or other boats, then an isolation transformer is the answer. It isolates your hull, galvanically, from any and all such threats.
I redid a little aluminum row boat, and have been around boats for 30 years. Excellent job there, you taught me more than I knew. The pictures were good too nice work. Now I know why the brass oarlocks ruined the gunwales.
Always loved and adored it when the scientist inside shoe comes out... Thank you professor I truly appreciate it when you are able to actually explain things to us individuals that are missing a couple of molecules it's always during Lee one of your fans forever
In many ways it is still somewhat of a Dark Art. No matter what you do, there will always be issues. People can be dogmatic about the right thing to do, but reality and theory don't always jibe. You have taken a thorough approach and done all the right things, great job Sheddy. You always do what's best for Chuffed.
Yes so very true Marty - its like reading up about whether to ground an aluminium boats electrical system in anyway... it seems theories go both ways, personally I will make sure electrcity never sees this hull again (as best I can!)
Very interesting, thanks. It’s interesting that you’ve painted the bottom of the hull. I wonder if you considered just leaving it bare and increasing the anode mass to compensate. A small chip in that coating and you could get rapid corrosion at that spot due to high proportion of the coated surface (which will become the cathodic site) compared to the chip (which will become the anoxic site).
Brief, simple and extremely informative. Always understood the concept and problem of electrolysis in construction and boating. Was great to learn a bit more about the differing natural degree of positive or negative charge in various metals. Fun to know. Thanks. Chuff is your biggest patient. Good luck-Gday.
Nice job chica!!! Oh man, so much work to do the whole bottom again 🙈 but little Chuffed will be so thankful for this and hopefully no more pitting from now on 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼big hug do you 😘
I have been looking for heavy gauge aluminum boats here in Hawaii and now I suspect I know why there are very few of them. Proper building based on the material preservation when working with finite elements and their electrical properties. It would be a solid and minimal effort to maintain if done correctly. Very insightful info. Mahalo for your time and insight.
Believe their are electronic monitors and preservers of aluminum available in addition to the process you are using in this video as well....aluminum boats hold their value well if properly protected. I have had two aluminum boats with issues but kept more than required and fresh anodes in place. I chose not to remove the oxide or paint above the waterline kept an electron barrier between dissimilar metals on the boat as well.
VTSC, one aspect of the tank bottoms corrosion is water bottoms (condensate or fuel impurities) can become acidic or shift their neutral ph to the acid side due to DE-aeration when left under fuel in a bare aluminum tank. The aluminum will 'remove'/strip or attract the oxygen to the aluminum oxide and the ph shift happens. After the water bottoms become acidic enough they will start crevice cell corrosion sites as you show in the video. For this reason water bottoms sumps coupled with regular pump-outs are part of well designed, built & maintained marine tanks.
To be honest, my brain still cannot comprehend many concepts discussed here, but I thank you enormously for making it better... and btw, yay surfing fishing and sailing. May it all come to you soon. (Yay all the dogs in the world who need love and care)
Wow, I was just searching some info regarding aluminium.. came out over your video and I enjoyed it so much! Very nice info about corrosion and video itself is such nicely made. You got yourself a subscriber right away :)
Having spent 30 years trying to eliminate electrolysis on my steel yacht I know it very difficult to avoid completely. Fortunately the damage was small enough to keep on top of. Some of the things I found to watch for were anodes with to high a lead content to work properly, stainless to mild steel contact, an alloy heat exchanger that has a direct contact to the sea via the raw water system.
I tell folks to repaint inside and outside on a regular schedule...steel boats will rust more inside of boat in unseen and hard to reach places quicker than outside the boat.
As usual, Sheddy, the episode was tops !!! When you pulled the stainless rail away from the aluminum, I thought for sure you were going to mention how to place a non-metal disc in-between metal to metal contact to reduce galvanic corrosion. Totally agree (on any kind of boat) anodes are our friend. ✨💕✨✌️✨⛵️⚓️🏝👣👙✨
for people who want some extra terminology; the anode (negative electrode in a galvanic spontaneous electrolysis redox reaction) gives electrons to the postive electrode and therefor oxidizes.
I learned about electrolytic action back in college in the early 80's not bringing steel in contact with aluminium,your explanation brought that all back.Very well explained thanks.
One of the most interesting tests , at least to nerdy me as I like electricity, was the one with a silver ingot, or at a minimum a well plated silver spoon, and a meter. Something like throwing the spoon into the salt water and measuring the voltage , with the black meter lead hooked to the boat, and the red meter lead on a wire connected to the silver. You get a voltage reading that indicates how well your "Zincs" are working. Apparently there is a sweet spot voltage which means you have the optimum amount of zincs for your vessel, its possible to have too much or too little. Its a topic which is hard to find details, especially for the more rare aluminum vessels, , kind of a scientific pursuit for a group of us . My cruisers help playlist has about 10 videos on galvanic corrosion topics. Yes, the systems you need when connected to shore power get a little complex and expensive. That said, there was a site called JetDock where they mentioned 1.3 volts as that special voltage and not going over that. Would need to ask them more about that. Also, with the Zinc sure to disappear, its essential that the hardware attaching them doesn't leak after the Zincs have disappeared.
Yes would like to try that, Will and I went around to each wire and the hull measuring any conductiveness to find stray leaks etc which was interesting
I stumbled upon this video while trying to figure out if I could use my boats aluminum hull as the grounding path for its electrical system. Thank you for answering it! If im interpreting this right, I should not do that.
When the connecting screws on the roof of the parking garage all rusted out when we had an interest in a condo in Mexico. No one believed me that it was because there were two different metals in contact. A few looked it up and were astounded it was indeed true. The builder should ever have used two different metals which was in reality three metals. The steel roof structure, the metal roofing and the subsequent incorrect metal screws. I think you have done such an amazing job, from scared, frustrated and in tears to in control and fully aware of the workings of your boat.
Well done! Superb explanation of all that info about corrosion and its various types. I only stumbled on your channel today, I will stay to learn more.
Great science lesson! I agree the internet is wonderful ....but have to seek a reputable source. So glad that you look healthy & happy 🙂👌 All's well in New York. Our infection & hospitalization rates are very low. Schools are opening in a couple weeks. Some with modified classroom venues ...most will be hybrid or online. As good as it can be in a pandemic. Stay safe and well 😷✌️🇺🇸
So glad to hear things are going well, and 'the new normal' is coming gently. I hope we use this time to restructure some of the ways things were that maybe were not working for everybody equally! Thanks Christine stay chuffed and stay well too!
This video was a real eye opener for me! I can not be more gratefull for you doing it and filming all the examples in situ! I've lived in ignorance as I tough that aluminium boats were nearly impervious to corrosion, and one need to worry only about stray currents from inside the boat and nothing more. How naive was to believe all those marketing things and "parroting" from other ppl that don't know better themselfs.
in a sailing boat, the simple fact of eletrostatic charges bild up in the mast or sails can generate enogth differential to promote galvanic or eletroctrolitic corosion ^^ but nice complete explenation BTW, nice video
@@WilliamHelstad Either an isolating transformer or a set of bridging capacitors. The idea is to isolate the vessel from the marina's power earthing system, thereby preventing your boat becoming the best earth for stray current and phase mis-match the entire marina power system has--with alarming rates of corrosion as a result. On my vessel, which was not aluminium--I used an isolating transformer. It was heavy. There are more modern devices available.
Very clear explanation, but raises some questions. 1- You prime her with zinc-phosphate. Zinc in this compound should provide enough anode protection, doesn't it? So there should be no need for external zinc anodes. 2- External zinc anodes applied after many prime paints, which prevents zinc to touch and react with aluminum. So these external zinc anodes probably be useless. What is your experience with them? 3- I heard that most corrosion on metal boats not occur on outside, but occur on inside. Boat owners usually focus on outside protection and neglect inside protection. What preventions did you do for inside of the hull?
Hi! The zinc primer does help a little, but it gets coated over and doesnt contact water so stops acting as a sacrificial anode. The anodes are bolted to the hull so make electrical contact with the hull and the water - we don't paint under them or over the top of them. We keep our bilges bare so we can inspect, some people do paint them for protection too, but ultimately the anodes will sacrifice before any of the aluminium parts so help protect the whole boat inside and out!
Thank you for response@@VetTails. Keeping bilges bare is a good option for aluminum boat owners. I recently bought a steel boat, I'm afraid to have inside corrosion. And keeping bilge bare is not an option since it rusts ugly unlike aluminum.
Once again so sorry you had to go through all that. Dated a lady with a 64 mustang 1st year. Boy did she use the charm on me 6 months later it was a good car.
So random I came across your channel. Im polishing an aluminium V8 chev inlet manifold and searching for tips and tricks. Im wondering now after seeing your video, if I attach an anode would it help inhibit corrosion in an engine? Given its an engine its does use high tension and low voltage, plus has water running through it for cooling. Surely that has to attribute to corrosion in the block and head. Im guessing if an anode could help an engine, someone would of already done it. Man great project and you really have a presence about you on camera. Im in Radelaide... So Go Oz content.
I was just out on a friends brand new dufour 390 when i said she should check her anodes when ever she gets a chance (since she charters her boat) I dived on the boat and saw her saildrive anode had a missing screw and was hanging off the saildrive, she didnt even know there was an anode there. Could have been an expensive mistake. I got the impression you didnt know any of this before you saw all of this damage and have learned a great deal since then. The last 2 bits of advice, dont drop any screws or metal in your boat, be hyper vigilant about it, if you drop a sss screw into the bilge you will end up with a hole in your boat, next any time you need to screw a sss screw into your alum, use duralac on the screw - it will isolate the 2 metals. gl hf.
Magnesium alloy is really good in fresh water, but zinc anodes will work well in salt water on an alu boat and are bit more readily available and cheaper. Zinc anodes slough more readily too so less chance of oxide build up rendering them inert.
Great video. I would like to add there is a good product to avoid galvanic corrosion where contacts between dissimilar metals can't be avoided (example. Stainless steel bolts into aluminium). It's called DURALAC, a yellow paste that can be applied. Check it out :)
nope, if you paint over the anode it wont work (you can technically paint under it IF it still comes into good contact with the boat through the bolts, but most leave it bare)
Yes, very good option, but need to paint quickly or give a light sand as you paint because al oxide forms really quickly (minutes). Wish we had that option -took a long time by tool/hand!
great explanation, thanks! The thing I've never understood is how to properly ground your electrical system in a metal boat. Be nice if you could cover that (or do you need to bring in your dad for a guest lecture?).
Agreed! Discuss an electrical ground for corrosion, one for the radio, and, particularly important, what to do about lightning. Also maybe one about how you traced down that stray current.
Simple answer... Negative buss. The hull of a metal boat should be utterly isolated from any and all on board electrical systems. However, this doesn't remove the need to install chassis grounds to the hull (AC only). These grounds should Never conduct Any current. They are only there to ensure a dead short in the event of an internal failure within an AC consumer. Without these, if an internal failure occured allowing the chassis to become energized, the next person to touch the unit will become the path to ground. Hope that helps. But if you are at all uncertain about power on your boat, hire a well recommended and experienced professional.
Negative grounded steel boats and hull isolated steel and aluminium boats is normal. Mast and stays are connected through the boat to the water, so that is the best lightning protection there is.
Generally a 'floating' DC electrical system is used on aluminium boats, so the entire battery/wiring/engine unit is completely isolated from the hull. This is what Chuffed has, we have no shore power so there is no AC current onboard (well there is an inverter but yeh nothing running through the boat). It is a suuuuuper confusing topic with a lot of theories going both ways, so not sure I would feel as good about telling people how to do it incase its the wrong info - dad may be a better bet!
So can those zinc pieces be shaped into a fin like shape. And lined up along the bottom? So you could have more than just a few... Or would it cause a drag on the boat?
How about electric storms hit by lighting. .. I was driving in a 70 model car hit by lightning in the front bumper and it changed color Bumper ..Large Bumper then
Just stumbled across you,looking for stuff on ally boats.Great explanation ,what type of boat do you have, looking forward to having a look through your videos, @lockeddowninmelbourne. Thank you
Galvanic corrosion is no joke as I am sure you are keenly aware. AL boats have many favorable characteristics but galvanic corrosion is a sneaky rascal and you can never let your guard down. Best of luck with the boat guys!
Hi Chuffed, Could you please outline your paint regime for your deck area. I have an older aluminum sailboat that needs to have the topsides done. Would love to know what you used and how it has held up. Many Thanks, David SV Tomcat
Hi! We sanded back to bare aluminium, then used the pettit 6455 etch primer, followed by EZprimer than the top coat. We used all pettit brand - the EZpoxy top coat is peeling a bit, but overall held up ok! We also painted in less than idea conditions which I don't think has helped!
Thanks for the video. Interesting and very useful. Do you leave unpainted/untreated the contact points between the anodes and the hull (metal to metal contact)? Good luck in your adventures.
Finally, someone who knows the corrosion subject and can explain it really well. Thanks.
Especially when those tech things explained by a nice and beautiful lady, amazing!
Seeing some of the corrosion damage and all the other issues that Chuffed had I was very skeptical that you would ever be able to do all the renovation work that she needed ! Now that I know how much work has been done and the time you have put into it I know I was wrong, you are one of the most determined and tenacious people I have ever heard of, you are an inspiration to us all !
Aw thanks so much Ian, yeh its been a hard slog but we are very close!
Thumbs up! After 30 years living on or just sailing around the globe that was the best simple explanation ever. Top marks
I'm in a fiberglass monohull...37 ft Ketch....after watching the Finnish people in their Aluminum vessel I now want one....thanks for explaining about Aluminum.....sail safe
I’ve heard this explained many times, but never this clearly. Thanks!
Great Video! I learned more in 8 minutes about aluminum than I ever though I could.. great job on explaining everything.
Glad it was helpful, thanks!
how and what can you do to add Anodes to the Alu boat ?
Doctor you have got to be the most noble person I know of on the internet and believe me I watch a lot of sailing channels and you are the queen of nobility
haha most people just talk about the difference in the nobility of metals, of course the good doctor talks about the difference in potential electrochemical voltage, which is the correct way to explain galvanic corrosion. Be sure to get a galvanic isolator for your shore power connection - it will stop stray currents from other boats from eating away at your boat/anodes when it is on shore power.
At last a clear explanation on electrolysis!
Very nicely done! That was one of the best explanations i have ever heard. I am glad you mentioned stray current in marinas. Electrocution due to stray current at marinas is the biggest reason I don't ever swim at a marina (even more dangerous in bodies of fresh water). So glad you are putting good zincs on chuffed. She will thank you!
Oh yeh that is a scary thought! Thanks Pat and Mike x
Marina close to ours, mother and daughter were electrocuted from their own aluminum boat because father wired the ground improperly...water around boat was charged when they jumped into water. Almost all marinas have stray electrons in the water. Never swim in marina water.
A "must" on an aluminum (or steel) boat is an isolation transformer. Not a galvanic isolator, that helps too, but an isolation transformer. Only this a 100% protection against stray currents in a marina, from either faulty marina installations or faulty installations on other boats.
Am I right in thinking thats only for shore power? We dont have shore power so all good here ;)
@@VetTails Yes, you are right. But why do you have no shore power? It is the most convenient and quickest way of charging your batteries, when you are in a marina. If the reason for not having shore power is the threat of galvanic corrosion from various marina sources or other boats, then an isolation transformer is the answer. It isolates your hull, galvanically, from any and all such threats.
I redid a little aluminum row boat, and have been around boats for 30 years. Excellent job there, you taught me more than I knew. The pictures were good too nice work. Now I know why the brass oarlocks ruined the gunwales.
Oh thats awesome to hear, thank you!
Always loved and adored it when the scientist inside shoe comes out... Thank you professor I truly appreciate it when you are able to actually explain things to us individuals that are missing a couple of molecules it's always during Lee one of your fans forever
In many ways it is still somewhat of a Dark Art. No matter what you do, there will always be issues.
People can be dogmatic about the right thing to do, but reality and theory don't always jibe.
You have taken a thorough approach and done all the right things, great job Sheddy. You always do what's best for Chuffed.
Yes so very true Marty - its like reading up about whether to ground an aluminium boats electrical system in anyway... it seems theories go both ways, personally I will make sure electrcity never sees this hull again (as best I can!)
Thanks!
thank you!
You are a sweetheart. Very knowledgeable. Settled a problem for us. Thank you
Very interesting, thanks. It’s interesting that you’ve painted the bottom of the hull. I wonder if you considered just leaving it bare and increasing the anode mass to compensate. A small chip in that coating and you could get rapid corrosion at that spot due to high proportion of the coated surface (which will become the cathodic site) compared to the chip (which will become the anoxic site).
Brief, simple and extremely informative. Always understood the concept and problem of electrolysis in construction and boating. Was great to learn a bit more about the differing natural degree of positive or negative charge in various metals. Fun to know. Thanks. Chuff is your biggest patient. Good luck-Gday.
Thanks so much I appreciate that!
Nice job chica!!! Oh man, so much work to do the whole bottom again 🙈 but little Chuffed will be so thankful for this and hopefully no more pitting from now on 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼big hug do you 😘
I hope so! You know the joys of this work ;) Miss you!
I have been looking for heavy gauge aluminum boats here in Hawaii and now I suspect I know why there are very few of them. Proper building based on the material preservation when working with finite elements and their electrical properties. It would be a solid and minimal effort to maintain if done correctly. Very insightful info. Mahalo for your time and insight.
Believe their are electronic monitors and preservers of aluminum available in addition to the process you are using in this video as well....aluminum boats hold their value well if properly protected. I have had two aluminum boats with issues but kept more than required and fresh anodes in place. I chose not to remove the oxide or paint above the waterline kept an electron barrier between dissimilar metals on the boat as well.
VTSC, one aspect of the tank bottoms corrosion is water bottoms (condensate or fuel impurities) can become acidic or shift their neutral ph to the acid side due to DE-aeration when left under fuel in a bare aluminum tank. The aluminum will 'remove'/strip or attract the oxygen to the aluminum oxide and the ph shift happens. After the water bottoms become acidic enough they will start crevice cell corrosion sites as you show in the video. For this reason water bottoms sumps coupled with regular pump-outs are part of well designed, built & maintained marine tanks.
Bonding is important too!
To be honest, my brain still cannot comprehend many concepts discussed here, but I thank you enormously for making it better... and btw, yay surfing fishing and sailing. May it all come to you soon. (Yay all the dogs in the world who need love and care)
Thanks so much, yes it’s super confusing! So excited to head up there and help out
Wow, I was just searching some info regarding aluminium.. came out over your video and I enjoyed it so much! Very nice info about corrosion and video itself is such nicely made. You got yourself a subscriber right away :)
Very good video with 1st hand experience and information.
Thank you for these informations.For me it's the first video about aluminum boat.I need more.
Yes they require some very specific care! We do some work on the tanks etc in later episodes, and also paint the boat which may help you!
your smile catched my heart so that I just ignored the content..
Having spent 30 years trying to eliminate electrolysis on my steel yacht I know it very difficult to avoid completely. Fortunately the damage was small enough to keep on top of. Some of the things I found to watch for were anodes with to high a lead content to work properly, stainless to mild steel contact, an alloy heat exchanger that has a direct contact to the sea via the raw water system.
Yes it is a the battle of metal boat owers!
I tell folks to repaint inside and outside on a regular schedule...steel boats will rust more inside of boat in unseen and hard to reach places quicker than outside the boat.
As usual, Sheddy, the episode was tops !!! When you pulled the stainless rail away from the aluminum, I thought for sure you were going to mention how to place a non-metal disc in-between metal to metal contact to reduce galvanic corrosion. Totally agree (on any kind of boat) anodes are our friend. ✨💕✨✌️✨⛵️⚓️🏝👣👙✨
Ah yeh, we did actually do that haha! Shouldve mentioned it ;) Anodes are my best friends now for sure
@@VetTails could the boat have been built with aluminum rails instead of ss?
Great presentation of the decomposition potential regarding Aluminium, best I've seen. Thanks.
for people who want some extra terminology; the anode (negative electrode in a galvanic spontaneous electrolysis redox reaction) gives electrons to the postive electrode and therefor oxidizes.
Thank you for adding extra clarity!
I had to pause the video to comment how informative this is, thanks, great work, I'm subscribed now :)
Thanks so much! Its definitely a topic I wont begin to know everything about, but grateful I was able to learn the basics as I went owning Chuffed
Really good and simple explanation
holy crap, im 72 and still learning stuff :-)
You never stop learning! Thats a sign of a good person :)
I learned about electrolytic action back in college in the early 80's not bringing steel in contact with aluminium,your explanation brought that all back.Very well explained thanks.
Hoooo, finally a very clear explanation... thank you Dr. Sheddy :)
What about a soft wire brush on the end of drills to clean off the corrosion in the pitting in the boat ????
One of the most interesting tests , at least to nerdy me as I like electricity, was the one with a silver ingot, or at a minimum a well plated silver spoon, and a meter. Something like throwing the spoon into the salt water and measuring the voltage , with the black meter lead hooked to the boat, and the red meter lead on a wire connected to the silver. You get a voltage reading that indicates how well your "Zincs" are working. Apparently there is a sweet spot voltage which means you have the optimum amount of zincs for your vessel, its possible to have too much or too little. Its a topic which is hard to find details, especially for the more rare aluminum vessels, , kind of a scientific pursuit for a group of us . My cruisers help playlist has about 10 videos on galvanic corrosion topics. Yes, the systems you need when connected to shore power get a little complex and expensive. That said, there was a site called JetDock where they mentioned 1.3 volts as that special voltage and not going over that. Would need to ask them more about that. Also, with the Zinc sure to disappear, its essential that the hardware attaching them doesn't leak after the Zincs have disappeared.
Yes would like to try that, Will and I went around to each wire and the hull measuring any conductiveness to find stray leaks etc which was interesting
@@VetTails can you describe that process a bit more?
Your knowledge is amazing.
I stumbled upon this video while trying to figure out if I could use my boats aluminum hull as the grounding path for its electrical system. Thank you for answering it! If im interpreting this right, I should not do that.
..., je t'adore DOCTEUR, continue ainsi BRAVO!
Great channel, good variety, good people
Thanks!
Well done, that was a great explanation.
thanks!
Dr Sheddy and assistants heroically save another ailing patient - SV Chuffed!
haha yes! shes been the longest case ever!
Thank you for the clear explanation!
That was awesome, you explained that so well and easy for people to understand.
Glad you think so!
When the connecting screws on the roof of the parking garage all rusted out when we had an interest in a condo in Mexico. No one believed me that it was because there were two different metals in contact. A few looked it up and were astounded it was indeed true. The builder should ever have used two different metals which was in reality three metals. The steel roof structure, the metal roofing and the subsequent incorrect metal screws. I think you have done such an amazing job, from scared, frustrated and in tears to in control and fully aware of the workings of your boat.
Well done! Superb explanation of all that info about corrosion and its various types. I only stumbled on your channel today, I will stay to learn more.
Thanks, we learn more before we chose the right boat.
Great science lesson! I agree the internet is wonderful ....but have to seek a reputable source.
So glad that you look healthy & happy 🙂👌 All's well in New York. Our infection & hospitalization rates are very low. Schools are opening in a couple weeks. Some with modified classroom venues ...most will be hybrid or online. As good as it can be in a pandemic. Stay safe and well 😷✌️🇺🇸
So glad to hear things are going well, and 'the new normal' is coming gently. I hope we use this time to restructure some of the ways things were that maybe were not working for everybody equally! Thanks Christine stay chuffed and stay well too!
@@VetTails Me too Doctor!
Thank you so much for this extremely informative video, specially for the zinc phosphate tip!
P.S. Love the pineapple shirt! ;-)
You're so welcome! The shirt has since disintegrated... I kept one sleeve as a rag for the memories haha
This video was a real eye opener for me!
I can not be more gratefull for you doing it and filming all the examples in situ!
I've lived in ignorance as I tough that aluminium boats were nearly impervious to corrosion, and one need to worry only about stray currents from inside the boat and nothing more.
How naive was to believe all those marketing things and "parroting" from other ppl that don't know better themselfs.
Good explanation of galvanic corrosion
Thanks, its hard to wrap my head around!
pretty much the same with steel narrow boats on the canals
good luck and keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
Well done, very informative video....you guys rock! Thanks, Andrew
in a sailing boat, the simple fact of eletrostatic charges bild up in the mast or sails can generate enogth differential to promote galvanic or eletroctrolitic corosion ^^ but nice complete explenation BTW, nice video
Great point!
very good explanation 👍
Always use an isolation device when using marina power--as well as the other things you said.
@@WilliamHelstad Either an isolating transformer or a set of bridging capacitors. The idea is to isolate the vessel from the marina's power earthing system, thereby preventing your boat becoming the best earth for stray current and phase mis-match the entire marina power system has--with alarming rates of corrosion as a result. On my vessel, which was not aluminium--I used an isolating transformer. It was heavy. There are more modern devices available.
What about paint it down with old engine oil to see if the oil might put any strengthener back into the aluminium
Your intelligence seems to be endless and its amazing to see - Amazing :)
Haha their is an end to it believe me ;) Thank you!
@@VetTails Doubt it.. You're a fellow Aussie. Bloody legend ;)
This video is fantastic thank you so much
Great explanation of corrosion and how it works.
Thanks 👍
Great video! Many thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation thanks so much
You are welcome!
Thank you for your video and I will be watching to learn more things to know with the corrosion of aluminium lol me I just get cob webs lol
Very clear explanation, but raises some questions.
1- You prime her with zinc-phosphate. Zinc in this compound should provide enough anode protection, doesn't it? So there should be no need for external zinc anodes.
2- External zinc anodes applied after many prime paints, which prevents zinc to touch and react with aluminum. So these external zinc anodes probably be useless. What is your experience with them?
3- I heard that most corrosion on metal boats not occur on outside, but occur on inside. Boat owners usually focus on outside protection and neglect inside protection. What preventions did you do for inside of the hull?
Hi! The zinc primer does help a little, but it gets coated over and doesnt contact water so stops acting as a sacrificial anode. The anodes are bolted to the hull so make electrical contact with the hull and the water - we don't paint under them or over the top of them. We keep our bilges bare so we can inspect, some people do paint them for protection too, but ultimately the anodes will sacrifice before any of the aluminium parts so help protect the whole boat inside and out!
Thank you for response@@VetTails. Keeping bilges bare is a good option for aluminum boat owners. I recently bought a steel boat, I'm afraid to have inside corrosion. And keeping bilge bare is not an option since it rusts ugly unlike aluminum.
Always heard most steel boats rust out inside first.
Once again so sorry you had to go through all that. Dated a lady with a 64 mustang 1st year. Boy did she use the charm on me 6 months later it was a good car.
Worth it in the end!
@@VetTails True
Outstanding! Thank you for taking the time to explain this :-)
How often should the keelboats get changed ???
So random I came across your channel.
Im polishing an aluminium V8 chev inlet manifold and searching for tips and tricks.
Im wondering now after seeing your video, if I attach an anode would it help inhibit corrosion in an engine?
Given its an engine its does use high tension and low voltage, plus has water running through it for cooling. Surely that has to attribute to corrosion in the block and head.
Im guessing if an anode could help an engine, someone would of already done it.
Man great project and you really have a presence about you on camera.
Im in Radelaide... So Go Oz content.
Great explanation! Glad to see you doing so well, medically, mechanically and electrically and other stuff too!
Thanks so much!
Got me worked up with that " sacrifice " for a moment but being so straight honest and beautiful awwww well 🤗 💝 💖.
Thank you for a very informative vid👍🏾
I was just out on a friends brand new dufour 390 when i said she should check her anodes when ever she gets a chance (since she charters her boat) I dived on the boat and saw her saildrive anode had a missing screw and was hanging off the saildrive, she didnt even know there was an anode there. Could have been an expensive mistake. I got the impression you didnt know any of this before you saw all of this damage and have learned a great deal since then. The last 2 bits of advice, dont drop any screws or metal in your boat, be hyper vigilant about it, if you drop a sss screw into the bilge you will end up with a hole in your boat, next any time you need to screw a sss screw into your alum, use duralac on the screw - it will isolate the 2 metals. gl hf.
good point
Put rubber seals in between the metals to stop it conducting
Learnt a lot from this video. Thanks.
you should be using high magnesium alloy anodes on aluminium hull. zink is good for a steel hull. you need some thing more reactive
Magnesium alloy is really good in fresh water, but zinc anodes will work well in salt water on an alu boat and are bit more readily available and cheaper. Zinc anodes slough more readily too so less chance of oxide build up rendering them inert.
Very helpful. Appreciate it.
Very interesting and informative video...take care and stay safe.
Thanks, you too!
When you do your research... go chuffed!
Excellent video..
Girl talking about technical aspects.., amazing! ))
Well explained , aircraft suffer the same but not at the same rate as boats in salt water
Yeh I heard that you can use a or of aircraft paints on boats!
Great video. I would like to add there is a good product to avoid galvanic corrosion where contacts between dissimilar metals can't be avoided (example. Stainless steel bolts into aluminium). It's called DURALAC, a yellow paste that can be applied. Check it out :)
Great point! Going to look it up now thank you!
You had me at "Al yooo min e yumm."
haha the aussie accent!
You are awesome! Informative and entertaining. Aloha!
the through hull fittings you showed as an example are not copper, they are bronze/ Brass, mix
no paint on or under the anode?
nope, if you paint over the anode it wont work (you can technically paint under it IF it still comes into good contact with the boat through the bolts, but most leave it bare)
Why don't you use alodine prior to primer?
This video is good ad for Fiberglass boats.
Awesome explanation lady 👍🏻
Thank you! 😃
Vet Tails' Sailing Chuffed I’m just replacing mine this week with the trudesign it’s really a no brainer I think
i would have used interprotect 2000e and use aluminum anodes not zinc. i would also get an electroguard 630afm kit for $1500 for iccm.
Is glass bead/walnut shell/sand abrasive blasting an option for removing the aluminum oxide?
Yes, very good option, but need to paint quickly or give a light sand as you paint because al oxide forms really quickly (minutes). Wish we had that option -took a long time by tool/hand!
great explanation, thanks!
The thing I've never understood is how to properly ground your electrical system in a metal boat. Be nice if you could cover that (or do you need to bring in your dad for a guest lecture?).
Agreed! Discuss an electrical ground for corrosion, one for the radio, and, particularly important, what to do about lightning. Also maybe one about how you traced down that stray current.
Simple answer...
Negative buss. The hull of a metal boat should be utterly isolated from any and all on board electrical systems.
However, this doesn't remove the need to install chassis grounds to the hull (AC only). These grounds should Never conduct Any current. They are only there to ensure a dead short in the event of an internal failure within an AC consumer. Without these, if an internal failure occured allowing the chassis to become energized, the next person to touch the unit will become the path to ground.
Hope that helps. But if you are at all uncertain about power on your boat, hire a well recommended and experienced professional.
Negative grounded steel boats and hull isolated steel and aluminium boats is normal. Mast and stays are connected through the boat to the water, so that is the best lightning protection there is.
Generally a 'floating' DC electrical system is used on aluminium boats, so the entire battery/wiring/engine unit is completely isolated from the hull. This is what Chuffed has, we have no shore power so there is no AC current onboard (well there is an inverter but yeh nothing running through the boat). It is a suuuuuper confusing topic with a lot of theories going both ways, so not sure I would feel as good about telling people how to do it incase its the wrong info - dad may be a better bet!
Parabéns linda doutora e mecânica muito guerreira gosto muito de você e este maraviloso comandante
So can those zinc pieces be shaped into a fin like shape. And lined up along the bottom? So you could have more than just a few... Or would it cause a drag on the boat?
How about electric storms hit by lighting. .. I was driving in a 70 model car hit by lightning in the front bumper and it changed color Bumper ..Large Bumper then
Just stumbled across you,looking for stuff on ally boats.Great explanation ,what type of boat do you have, looking forward to having a look through your videos, @lockeddowninmelbourne. Thank you
I enjoyed that a lot! You did a great job.
Thank you very much!
Galvanic corrosion is no joke as I am sure you are keenly aware. AL boats have many favorable characteristics but galvanic corrosion is a sneaky rascal and you can never let your guard down. Best of luck with the boat guys!
Spend extra money and go beyond recommendations on your anodes!
Seems to be smooth sailing now, so glad we did the hard yards to find it all!
Hi Chuffed,
Could you please outline your paint regime for your deck area. I have an older aluminum sailboat that needs to have the topsides done. Would love to know what you used and how it has held up.
Many Thanks, David SV Tomcat
Hi! We sanded back to bare aluminium, then used the pettit 6455 etch primer, followed by EZprimer than the top coat. We used all pettit brand - the EZpoxy top coat is peeling a bit, but overall held up ok! We also painted in less than idea conditions which I don't think has helped!
Thanks for the video. Interesting and very useful. Do you leave unpainted/untreated the contact points between the anodes and the hull (metal to metal contact)? Good luck in your adventures.
yeh, the screws themselves conduct between the hull and the anode :)