I have this exact bike ! It was my father in laws bike. Been sitting for about 4 years and the choke is stuck won’t move and throttle is very stiff ! So going to go threw the carb today and this vid will really help !!! Ty Sir will post update ! Any advice is welcomed 👍
Great bike. Hard to kill. Carbs are very simple. Try to locate some guitar strings, somewhere from the smaller sizes. Or somthing similar. That way you can clean out the jets. They tend to clog up when sitting around with no fuel, or with bad fuel. Please check back soon. I have a couple other videos regarding this bike.
Thank you very much for commenting. I searched forever for video about the screw and saw a vague description about it and I had to create a video about it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video i was looking for this screw.. The top of my pipes are blue so im trying to figure out the exact way im supposed to turn this screw for the best performance
Thanks for commenting. This screw should be turned all the way in clockwise and then turned counter clockwise one turn. Start the bike and test ride. I have heard many different adjustments on it. Mine ran good on 2 1/2 and another said his ran at s half turn. There is a manual floating around that will have this info. Google 2001 gz250 service pdf You should find it that way.
The brake system is easy to work on here. The rear brakes are cable driven. So no fluid there. If you cannot see the brake fluid leak then remove the front brake caliper and look there. I do have a video with that process on my channel as well. Let me know if you need any advice. I love to help.
-- Cant get mine to run. It has spark. Removed the carb, cleaned all the jets. Tested the kickstand circuit, fresh battery (charging system works), good fuel. Problem is the same as before. It'll run for a few seconds with starting fluid, but barely on fuel. Air fuel mixture screw I've set several different ways. Fuel from the tank is getting to the carb, again I cleaned the jets (see right through them and the float bowl) have spark, adjusted idle. Seems to only chance it has to run for a few seconds is on choke. New plug, oil, filter, air filter. Suzuki GZ250, 2002. I'm at the end of my rope. Anyone have any ideas?
Ok, it sound like a fuel delivery issue. If you were to pull the bowl off is it full of fuel? Also, remove the choke from the carb. I'm not sure if this is the type but some chokes choke air and some choke fuel. I think this one chokes air, if it isn't choking and just passing air it may not have the vacuum to pull fuel into the cylinder. Also, if it is a fuel delivery issue and all you said, I would do a compression. Test. Mine blew and caused all sorts of failures to start. These engines rely on the downward stroke to pull fuel into the cylinder. Let me know what the compression test reads. Should be about 190 at minimum. Doing this from memory as I have sold my 250.
@@cobravids -- I can do all of that. I'll get started tomorrow. The carb has a float bowl drain, so if I set to prime, I should get steady fuel out of the bowl without having to disassemble to tell if it's getting fuel. It is an air choke. I'm supposed to remove the choke and run it that way? And I have a compression tester. But the bike does run fine for as long as the starting fluid lasts. Thanks.
@MarkJacksonGaming My thoughts on the choke is it could.be not choking at all and is allowing too much air flow so replacing seals could fix it. That's a long shot. I would think more along lines of compression or float needle valves. The starting fluid is a higher combustible fluid so it may just be that it burns easier and allows it to run. Without seeing the engine in person it's difficult to really say for sure. Have you messed with the air fuel screw? Could that port be clogged up? Have you removed it and blew it out to make sure? We can figure this out. Oh, you said it is getting fuel. Does it still have the clear plastic fuel line? Can you see air bubbles in it when your cranking? Have you checked to see if the vacuum line going to the petcock is cracked or unplugged? A way to test the petcock is apply a light vacuum on that small line going tocthe backside of the petcock. If it isn't receiving vacuum. It will not allow fuel to flow. Unless it's on prime. You ever try starting it with prime on?
@@cobravids -- At work, I'll get started when I get home. Yes. I have tried it on PRIME (btw, thank you for all your help) the petcock hose itself is fine and connected properly, and isn't cracked. I do have fuel running freely from the gas tank through the fuel line (no the line isn't transparent, but detached on prime, it pours out, and just on 'fuel' a good amount comes out (seems normal from when the bike worked). I'm leaning heavily toward it not being compression (have to check it yet). The bike ran fine, the gag is, it sat, for YEARS without running. Now this. I did not remove the floats from the carb, but check their operation, and cleaned the entire setup. The float bowl looked like a swamp and the jets were hopelessly clogged. I can see through all of them now (cleaner soak/air compressor to blow them out) and the float bowl is clean enough to eat off of. Visually or audibly, there's no indication to suggest mechanical damage to the motor. I've owned the bike for 13 years, and have taken care of it. Regular maintenance, up to this point where I've been sick for an extended period. Going to do what you suggested, and also check the air choke's operation, as well as clean it. Beyond that, I'll have it towed to the dealer. Have 25 years experience with computers, and about 12 hours with carburetors so :)
@MarkJacksonGaming That's funny I have been working with a computer since a desktop was realistically affordable. And as for carbs, my experience is with cars. The bikes are similar but a little different in some aspects. It's odd that it fires up with starting fluid. That screams fuel delivery to me. Would hate for you to go to the shop to get it fixed.
I have a 1999 gz250 that I just rebuilt the carburetor on cause it wasn’t idling. Put it back together and still won’t idle. I have played with the air/fuel mixture and have almost gotten it to stay ideling but still can’t. Any thoughts?
You know I was at work and was thinking. I know it is silly but did you turn the idle screw in a little? It is on the "passenger" right side of engine and it points down.
Cobra Vids I haven’t had much time but I have played with the idle screw as well. I finally got a local mechanic to check it out on Wednesday. I am interested to see what he comes with.
You only adjust the screw 1/4 turn it was already out 2 and 3/4 If I remember right you were surprised that it was out that far as if somebody already adjusted at once
2 turns has always been a standard in air fuel screws. Even with my old mustang. Then you get the vacuum gauges out and fine tune. I never had a vacuum gauge to finish tuning. Come to think of it you may have something there, I always had a problem with running lean and causing blueing in my pipes. If more unscrews allows more air then that could create my issue. I am sure I looked at the repair manual to determine the appropriate number of turns, something I always do. But, I did create this video mainly to show a viewer where it is. I may have not looked that information up. Thanks for that information. Stay safe.
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
I have this exact bike ! It was my father in laws bike. Been sitting for about 4 years and the choke is stuck won’t move and throttle is very stiff ! So going to go threw the carb today and this vid will really help !!! Ty Sir will post update ! Any advice is welcomed 👍
Great bike. Hard to kill. Carbs are very simple. Try to locate some guitar strings, somewhere from the smaller sizes. Or somthing similar. That way you can clean out the jets. They tend to clog up when sitting around with no fuel, or with bad fuel. Please check back soon. I have a couple other videos regarding this bike.
Wonderful presentation. First time ever about the air screw. Thanks
Thank you very much for commenting. I searched forever for video about the screw and saw a vague description about it and I had to create a video about it. Thanks for watching.
Man of many talents!
Thanks for this video i was looking for this screw.. The top of my pipes are blue so im trying to figure out the exact way im supposed to turn this screw for the best performance
Thanks for commenting. This screw should be turned all the way in clockwise and then turned counter clockwise one turn. Start the bike and test ride. I have heard many different adjustments on it. Mine ran good on 2 1/2 and another said his ran at s half turn. There is a manual floating around that will have this info. Google 2001 gz250 service pdf
You should find it that way.
Good explanation video!
Just got one gz250 that seems to have a brake fluid leak somewhere would be good to have idea on how to . Thanks
The brake system is easy to work on here. The rear brakes are cable driven. So no fluid there. If you cannot see the brake fluid leak then remove the front brake caliper and look there. I do have a video with that process on my channel as well. Let me know if you need any advice. I love to help.
Get a color tune it will help simplify your tuning and cheak the reading of plugs before and after
Thank you, my pipes are turning blue at the front as well. I'm going out to do this in a little bit!
Did you have any luck?
@@cobravids I had to drill mine out, took it a half a turn more. Waiting for spring to see how much of an impact it had.
-- Cant get mine to run. It has spark. Removed the carb, cleaned all the jets. Tested the kickstand circuit, fresh battery (charging system works), good fuel.
Problem is the same as before. It'll run for a few seconds with starting fluid, but barely on fuel. Air fuel mixture screw I've set several different ways. Fuel from the tank is getting to the carb, again I cleaned the jets (see right through them and the float bowl) have spark, adjusted idle. Seems to only chance it has to run for a few seconds is on choke.
New plug, oil, filter, air filter. Suzuki GZ250, 2002. I'm at the end of my rope. Anyone have any ideas?
Ok, it sound like a fuel delivery issue. If you were to pull the bowl off is it full of fuel? Also, remove the choke from the carb. I'm not sure if this is the type but some chokes choke air and some choke fuel. I think this one chokes air, if it isn't choking and just passing air it may not have the vacuum to pull fuel into the cylinder. Also, if it is a fuel delivery issue and all you said, I would do a compression. Test. Mine blew and caused all sorts of failures to start. These engines rely on the downward stroke to pull fuel into the cylinder. Let me know what the compression test reads. Should be about 190 at minimum. Doing this from memory as I have sold my 250.
@@cobravids -- I can do all of that. I'll get started tomorrow. The carb has a float bowl drain, so if I set to prime, I should get steady fuel out of the bowl without having to disassemble to tell if it's getting fuel. It is an air choke.
I'm supposed to remove the choke and run it that way?
And I have a compression tester. But the bike does run fine for as long as the starting fluid lasts. Thanks.
@MarkJacksonGaming My thoughts on the choke is it could.be not choking at all and is allowing too much air flow so replacing seals could fix it. That's a long shot. I would think more along lines of compression or float needle valves. The starting fluid is a higher combustible fluid so it may just be that it burns easier and allows it to run. Without seeing the engine in person it's difficult to really say for sure. Have you messed with the air fuel screw? Could that port be clogged up? Have you removed it and blew it out to make sure? We can figure this out.
Oh, you said it is getting fuel. Does it still have the clear plastic fuel line? Can you see air bubbles in it when your cranking? Have you checked to see if the vacuum line going to the petcock is cracked or unplugged? A way to test the petcock is apply a light vacuum on that small line going tocthe backside of the petcock. If it isn't receiving vacuum. It will not allow fuel to flow. Unless it's on prime. You ever try starting it with prime on?
@@cobravids -- At work, I'll get started when I get home. Yes. I have tried it on PRIME (btw, thank you for all your help) the petcock hose itself is fine and connected properly, and isn't cracked.
I do have fuel running freely from the gas tank through the fuel line (no the line isn't transparent, but detached on prime, it pours out, and just on 'fuel' a good amount comes out (seems normal from when the bike worked).
I'm leaning heavily toward it not being compression (have to check it yet). The bike ran fine, the gag is, it sat, for YEARS without running. Now this. I did not remove the floats from the carb, but check their operation, and cleaned the entire setup. The float bowl looked like a swamp and the jets were hopelessly clogged. I can see through all of them now (cleaner soak/air compressor to blow them out) and the float bowl is clean enough to eat off of. Visually or audibly, there's no indication to suggest mechanical damage to the motor. I've owned the bike for 13 years, and have taken care of it. Regular maintenance, up to this point where I've been sick for an extended period. Going to do what you suggested, and also check the air choke's operation, as well as clean it. Beyond that, I'll have it towed to the dealer.
Have 25 years experience with computers, and about 12 hours with carburetors so :)
@MarkJacksonGaming That's funny
I have been working with a computer since a desktop was realistically affordable. And as for carbs, my experience is with cars. The bikes are similar but a little different in some aspects. It's odd that it fires up with starting fluid. That screams fuel delivery to me. Would hate for you to go to the shop to get it fixed.
Now you should hook a vacuum gauge to it and tune it while warmed up and running.
Correct. Most important on bikes with carbs. And especially for those with two carbs.
I have a 1999 gz250 that I just rebuilt the carburetor on cause it wasn’t idling. Put it back together and still won’t idle. I have played with the air/fuel mixture and have almost gotten it to stay ideling but still can’t. Any thoughts?
I'll help ya get her going if I can. Have you done a compression test? Have you adjusted the valves? How about replacing the plug?
You know I was at work and was thinking. I know it is silly but did you turn the idle screw in a little? It is on the "passenger" right side of engine and it points down.
Cobra Vids I haven’t had much time but I have played with the idle screw as well. I finally got a local mechanic to check it out on Wednesday. I am interested to see what he comes with.
@@brycebrin8273 please come back and let us know what the guy says. It will definitely help others in the future.
Well the mechanic called, and said it’s blown head gasket and he was surprised that even still started.
You only adjust the screw 1/4 turn it was already out 2 and 3/4 If I remember right you were surprised that it was out that far as if somebody already adjusted at once
2 turns has always been a standard in air fuel screws. Even with my old mustang. Then you get the vacuum gauges out and fine tune. I never had a vacuum gauge to finish tuning. Come to think of it you may have something there, I always had a problem with running lean and causing blueing in my pipes. If more unscrews allows more air then that could create my issue. I am sure I looked at the repair manual to determine the appropriate number of turns, something I always do. But, I did create this video mainly to show a viewer where it is. I may have not looked that information up. Thanks for that information. Stay safe.