Everything You Need To Know Before Buying a Mazda 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2024
- Here I have everything you need to know before buying a Mazda 3! I have been in the Mazda 3 platform for over 5 years and have put together a small Mazda 3 buyers guide so you can buy your next vehicle safely, without worry.
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Pro tip: the power windows need to be re-paired every time you disconnect and reconnect the battery. The main control box will "learn" the other controllers by you going over to each controller and holding it UP for about five seconds and letting go. You'll hear a "click".
Once you do that, the driver's control module will be able to control them, until the next battery disconnect.
I found this out AFTER I'd already bought a new driver's side power window control unit.
This is for the auto control for the driver window
Or you don’t have to worry about any of that and get crank up and down windows😂
It's little insider tips like that for which TH-cam was created. Things also like (the GM OBD1 paperclip scan tool). If you happen to have a 1995 or older GM product with the Check Engine light on and no scan tool, look it up. P.S. Some higher-end 1995 GM cars (Corvette, Cadillac, V-8 F body's) have OBD2 data ports with OBD1 computers, so, in those cases, skip the clip and a proprietary OBD1 scanner with (the sold separately) special interface connector is what you need for the scan.
Some off deep woods bug spray 40% deet will clean up those foggy headlight.
THANK U SO MUCH FOR SHARING THAT BRO🙏🏻 🙏🏻
Great to see someone so passionate about mazda 3s, I've had a 2.3 with the l3VE for a couple years (it's got 230k km) and no oil issues so far. Great cars
The 2.3 liter engine is not known for its reliability, but at least you seem to have gotten good life out of it. Just keep up with maintenance, and watch out for issues with oil burning, and keep the oil topped up. :)
I drive a 1.6 liter variant, and that one developed some tappet tick symptoms. The engine quieted down and started running smoother after I switched from the recommended 5W-30 to 5W-40 oil. If it starts to click.. try the 5W-40.
ME 2 same Car but 07👈🏻
I’ve got a 2007 2.3, I bought it at 90,000 miles. It has 145,000 now. I did have to replace my Tcm. I’m very picky about making sure my cars run tip top and these Mazda 3’s always have some sort of problem. At this point I’ve put too much money and labor into the car to trade it in so I’m driving it til the wheels fall off. I do have to say my 2.3 runs strong, zero oil loss.
Yes, you got the good 2.3 out of the bunch!
Before you replaced your TCM, was your transmission slipping or not upshifting?
@@jeramiaharagon9683 it’s been a while now but I believe it was in limp mode and just stayed in one gear. So take offs were hesitant
I have a 2.3 , 200k very little problems. Burns a little oil but other than that a solid motor.
I too had to put the tcm lol
i bought my first mazda 3 recently, absolutely love. iv have mine serviced and came back flawless mechanically. mine sometimes grinds 2nd, but does it alot less now after a fluit change. my mechanic recommends redline transmission oil has it helped his old mazda 3 alot. So far no complaints here with my mazda 3. i have replaced the driver side tail light, ariel, and wheels so far on mine.
I can personally confirm pretty much everything in this vid!
My 2.0 is a champ! My 2004 3i sedan has 340,000 miles (547,000 km) is still getting me where I need to go. It does burn A LOT of oil at this point, which is likely why my CAT is now throwing codes at me. Crank case pressure / blow-by has been an issue for a while.
The rear suspension bushings do not last forever. Find a friend with a press and swap them out yourself. It's definitely a job, but not terrible.
Motor mounts can be replaced without too much trouble.
I have had to pop off the inner door panels for windows/locks. Snapped plenty of old plastic push pins in the process, but again not a horrible job.
And of course as we see in the video and the comments, RUST. My beloved car is rusting away. Too much rust would be the only deal breaker for me if I were shopping for a new one. I sincerely hope to some day soon rebuild my 2.0 and find a rust-free home for him. I love this car!
Great vid! The non-speed 3 deserves a lot more love than it gets!
Damn dude that's some high mileage
I'm buying a 2008 Mazda 3 i Touring 5 speed manual with 94k on the odo this week. Previous owner took really good care of it, I was surprised it had zero rust underneath. Test drove it and no clunks as the control arms and rear springs were replaced. Looking forward to getting it to 300k miles.
It'll get there easy, just take care of it :)
I own a European 2004 BK 1.6 that has been in family hands and passed down to me. Still working like a charm, engine has had zero issues, only real issue he had was a busted cooler liquid tank that caused overheating once. Fuel consumption is alright for a 19 y/o car. Suspension got replaced after 16 years (200.000 km), though it's due again since my Mazzy has to go 300km a week through bad german roads, will be replaced soon but I got used to the knocking sound it makes haha. Another thing mine has is faulty wires in the trunk, mine wont open by pressing the lock anymore and used to open itself up before I plugged off the cable to the lock. My Mazzy also used to lock all doors when turning off the rear fog light, he just fixed that himself one day, probably water in the damaged wires causing contact. I call that part of his character, lmao.
The other biggest issue, like in your silver BK, is rust. Gosh, I have no idea what Mazda thought with having that badly preserved metal around the wheel wells. I highly recommend rust converter and zincing the area around the bottom and wheel wells, aswell as around the third brake light!
But even with all that I'm deeply in love with the BK series, they're fun to drive and do make for a nice first car or first project car as mine is to me
My 2.3 was in really really good condition. The USDM 3 must have been a bit different, because the 2.3 wasn't only in the GT (atleast for the hatchbacks?), my car was an 05 S so didn't even have ABS or side airbags but had the 2.3 badging and had a 2.3 according to the vin. "Totaled" it not that long ago being tired and not paying enough attention in rush hour traffic. Its only really totaled because the airbag went off and it costs $3000 to replace, I am pretty confident that the frame rails weren't bent though haven't exactly dug all the way into it. The crash bar wasn't even fully collapsed, but the fenders and hood were pushed back a bit but the hood opens and the door still opens with no rubbing, and it drove home fine and perfectly straight like usual so I think ill be putting a steering wheel in it, stripping it and seeing how long my 2.3 lasts me in autocross/track days! It wasn't ever burning a smidge of oil and the oil always looked super happy at the end of my intervals with no metal, gunk or off colors even at 175k. I miss driving that thing so much. It was my first car, drove awesome for the 4 years I had it. I replaced the axles, brakes, and a lot of the suspension cause it was at the end of its life but it never left me anywhere and started up every time
For Europe (since you said motor and not engine), the 3 motors were 1.4 liter 84hp (very rare), 1.6 liter 105 hp (petrol) and then the 1.6 liter diesel, 110 hp. There are some 2.0 petrol engines (150 hp), but a bit rare. Also, the 2.3 liter petrol engine was fitted in the Mazda MPS (260 hp) and that one is definitely the rarest one.
The petrol engines have a timing chain and the engine is produced by mazda, while the diesel ones have a timing belt and the engine is produced by Ford.
There's a sheer amount of problems with the diesel ones (d'oh) and a small list of issue with the petrol ones. The 1.6 liter 105 hp petrol engine is one of the most reliable ones in the world, I'd say.
For the first generation (2004-2006), the biggest problem ever was the rust under the car and on the wings (just as you can see at 3:28 behind you). It was somewhat eliminated with the facelift version (2006-2009) and completely taken cared of in the BL model (2010-2013).
Some other failures: the knock sensor tends to go away after a while, mostly due to bad fuel (if you have Lukoil in your country, avoid it at all costs, or better yet, put water in the tank by yourself, don't pay extra for it at Lukoil). The light bulb in the lighter and/or the glove compartment tends to cause all the dash lights to malfunction. I have no idea why, but it's an easy fix anyway.
If you install an LPG system on the 1.6 liter petrol engine, make sure that you run on petrol at least 50km every 3000km and step on it. Otherwise, you'll have some major damages to the engine (and by major, I mean you'll have to replace some valves, but to do that, you'll have to replace other components as well).
Mazda 3 BK 1.6 105hp petrol engine owner here, soon to get a BL model.
Hi!
I see you have great knowledge regarding Mazda 3. I am currently thinking purchasing my first car ever and I want it to be Mazda 3 2005 in EU and thinking between 1.6 and 2.0 motor/engine. 1.6 one has 187.000 km and 2.0 195.000 km. How is fuel consumption with 2.0? I will use the car for daily drive and 3 times per week will go out from city within rage 200km. Wich engine would you recommend?
Good tips, thanks. Ive been daily with a 2011 2.0 manual for a few years now (the last of the MZR engines before skyactive took over). Its right at 160k miles on it. Knock on wood no engine issues yet except it does use slightly more oil than i'm used to. 1-2q of extra oil are needed between every change (which I do at 5k miles using Mobile 1). I do have the random grind from 1st to 2nd, seems to be mostly when I have a lead foot. Have a lot of potholes and bad roads here, so one of my upper rear shock mounts did shatter, but its a cheap and easy fix. I have a little bit of clunking etc and did notice that one of the link bushings on the rear seemed pretty worn, though I haven't had a chance to check everything. Slight leak in the trunk. But yeah, what you said seems to track pretty accurately even on 2nd gen.
That transmission sounds like mine except it's not a grind, super strange sound.
I owned an '06 Mazda 3 GS Sport Manual (Canada model) with a 2.3l motor and never had issues with the motor itself. Owned it from 110,000km to 160,000km. Only issue was the O2 sensor and it cost about $250 to have repaired by a mechanic. The biggest problem with 1st gen Mazda 3 was tire wear. That thing would eat a pair of tires in like 20,000km, due to the inside edge of the rear tires getting worn because of the aggressive stance.
Just bought my first Mazda 3 last week.. 2012 2.0 Skyactiv 6 speed automatic. Noticed the trunk had moisture in it so will check out the areas you mention. Also rear shocks bouncy at first then firm up..must need rear shocks. Also drivers power window switch as someone mentioned on here. Otherwise I like the car!
Good video.
I no longer feel bad for having the 2.0L engine, the engine has proven to be rock solid. I totally agree with suspension... The front end links have gone out on me, and the struts are also on their way out, thankfully I've purchased replacements, and they're good now.
I want to add something to what you've said, I really do, but honestly my Mazda3 has been so solid that the work I've done to it is minimal.
One thing i should add is to tint the windows, the Mazda3 for whatever reason the has the clearest windows in all the parking lots i've been in... i've actually looked. its freaky.
Get them tinted, if privacy is an issue for you.
Deadass how I feel driving the beater without tint 😂
Bought a 2013 Skyactiv 2.0 with AT and 150k miles. Had to replace the rear sway bar links (clunk). Restore the headlights (3M ultra). Clean the seats and trunk carpet. Replaced plugs (appeared recently replaced). New cabin air filter (dirty and reducing flow). The car runs and shifts great and is quiet now after sway bar links were replaced. Paid $5300 USD. Next is the passenger CV axle. So far about $135 in parts. Brake pads look fine, no rotor warp. Bought it for the daughters training wheels. Oh and it gets 43mpg on the highway!
Yeah, I've heard of those reliability issues on the 2.3... The 2.5, however; as the owner of two 2.5 2nd gens, I can say that they're quite bulletproof, and not only do I drive 30K+ km per year, I drive it hard sometimes. My current one has 236,000 km on it and still no oil burning! All I've had to replace so far were all 3 engine mounts, a CV axle and the coolant tank. Being an auto, the old owner had the TCM replaced at about 200K, and other than that it still needs the other CV (it's leaking), ball joints (I tore the boot slightly while replacing the first CV), rear shocks (I wanna lower it, so I'll save up for new shocks, struts and springs all round), I still need to change some fluids, and there's a slight leak in the boot (trunk) that I still need to sort out. Other than all that I'm very happy with it and I'll likely keep it for a long time (unless I decide to buy an MPS 😉). You'd hardly be able to tell it's got that many K's on it just by driving it 😅
Yes, did you know the 2.5's are also boostable and can compete with the Speeds!
@@ColtonRichter 2.5 are boostable ? Really ☺ I have a 2010 madza 3s 4door 2.5 6speed manual, I always wondered the difference between the madza Speed 2.5 & non boosted 2.5, are the internals different, but anyways what safe boost lvls stock 2.5 would u recommend
@@ColtonRichter is there anything I can do to my 2.0 3s engine get get some extra bhp out of it, I got performance exhaust decat, air filter, and throttle ground, have you ever had experience with those plug in tuner chips, such as, race chip?
i have an 08 2.3 hatch.. one big issue i had to fix was the fuel pump locking ring, which ended up cracking and allowing fuel to gush out of the top of the tank. ive seen others with this issue online, but i dont suspect it to be common. but with that being said, i bought my car with the gas light on and after its first fuel up i strongly smelled gas and when i looked underneath, it was dripping constantly. so, definitely something to look out for with 3's and other cars equipped with that kind of locking ring.
my car has only 79k miles. however the previous owners neglected the hell out of the car, so keep that in mind... ive had to do the passenger motor, and transmission mounts. i needed a new MAF sensor, purge valve and hose, and a new throttle body due to a failing inner sensor (cannot remember what it was). i also recently had to replace the tcm. speaking of which, that is not a cheap fix. i got a rebuilt module for $600. you will need to go to a dealer to have them reprogram it to your vin, which is why i opted for the 600 dollar one, since they did that for me.
interior/exterior wise, i have very little complaints. depending on your state and how high temps get there, the ext. door handle retainer springs may go bad due to failing plastic that holds them in. this will make the handle feel really really loose. if it gets too bad, the door handle itself can be pulled out completely. the rear view mirror can start to de-laminate due to heat. and finally, the rear taillights may have issues where the brake bulb gets so hot it melts the red plastic insert within the housing. both of my tails did that, and i ended up getting new ones and adding led brake bulbs to prevent that from happening again. if you live in colder weather than florida (hate it here) than a lot of the body related issues i just stated will not happen to you.
other than that, i have nothing else to complain about! i love this car to death even though its given me such headaches. super duper fun!
My windows were shitty so I WD-40 all the window motors and they work like magic now. My 05 2l 3 has been through hell and still got to 190kph at 260000kms takes corners like a champ
Hell yeah WD-40 everything
Good video man, very informative & thorough. Subbed.
Thanks!
I've not had any oil burning in my 2.3l. Got it at 140k. 25k later regular oil changes at 5k. Only had to change the valve cover gasket, right cv axle and rear strut mounts.
Nice, you got a gooder.
Mazda 3 2010 owner had rear sway bars replaced . Sometimes I get grind noises from 1 to 2 but rarely . Sitting on 220xxx kms , previous owner had to replace clutch at 120k so that was sweet of him . Other than that car has been running good
Rear sway bar? That's interesting
I HAVE A 2007 2.3 LITER MAZDA 3... LEATHER SEATS, BOSE SPEAKERS & EVERYTHING U SAID IS ON POINT EXCEPT, MY OIL IS GOOD‼️ I USE SYNTHETIC OIL... IT HAS 233,000 MILES ON IT.. LATELY MY (AT) LIGHT BEEN COMING ON THE DASH MEANING TRANSMISSION, I THINK IT MIGHT BE TCM BOX U SAID . ANYHOW, I JUST BOUGHT ME A BEAUTIFUL 2008 2.0 LITER 5 SPEED IN SILVER.. SPOTLESS WITH 200,000 MILES. I HAVE IT AS A BACK UP TIL MY 2007 2.3 DIES💀 BCUZ IM RUNNING IT TIL THE WHEELS FALL OFF ‼️🤣😂🤣😂😭 MAZDA 3 ARE GOOD CARS💪🏻💥
GOOD CARS‼️‼️
I've got a 2009 GT 2.3 with over 274,000 miles (yes miles not KM) and still running strong.
One of a kind!
The ONLY thing wrong with my Mazda is the driver side window doesn’t really roll down right now but I’m going to try to fix it soon but besides that Mazda 3 is a beautiful car highly worth it
Man that's the most important window 😂
Old comment but to help others later who may run into this issue: the windows can get stuck closed sometimes if they're dirty around the edges and/or there's build up at the rubber seals, spray some window cleaner all around the edges and seals and if it still doesn't roll down hold down the control and use your other hand to assist the window down (not with hulk force of course) then give it all a thorough cleaning.
This worked for me before when I initially thought I had an electrical/window motor problem but turned out there was just dirt+sticky residue on top and bottom edge of window probably from tree sap/summer heat making window tint gooey at edges.
Currently owning the 2007 Mazda 3 2.0L, bought it used 6 yrs ago and the OBO right now is only 130,000km. I have replaced rear shock & shock mounts due to rust, thermometer throttle, starter, O2 sensor, ABS reservoir, front sway bar links, Some issues still remaining: exhaust pipe under the car is loose due to rust, all four windows were dead, AC not working. I am going to keep the car even longer becasue it's still driving fine. Most importantly, it's a lot cheaper to maintain than buying a new car or 4 yrs old used cars.
Bought a 2010 Mazda 3 S 4door 2.5 6 speed manual, love it, paid 3,800 It had 116k now has 122k this thing has been amazing no issues, the only sad thing about these cars is the reliability ( to good) , I need a few things interior wise & not one pull a part or junk yard has these cars & from my research it's a 2010 so I can't go lower with another Gen, also I guess there was a recall on the dash & sadly the previous owners never took care of it so my dash gets sticky in hot weather, not sure if I can buy one or if they still sell em, which is why I was looking at junk yards but couldn't find any, but I've had the car since last spring & it's been nothing but amazing, not a single issue
Look at sticky dash fix
if there was a recall. you might be able to get it fixed for free at a mazda dealership
@@afrohealer there was a recall on the dash but I believe it's to old now to get it done sadly
@@RealLostGlitches i though recalls dont expire!! . You can put your cars vin number in one of the vin detector sites,
and it might list which recalls are still outstanding for your car.
Australian 2005 SP23 owner. 237,000 km Only issue I have is worn out rear blade bushes (the hard ones to replace since the whole rear arm has to come off etc - and you’re right, it is expensive if you can’t do it yourself) and one rear passenger window doesn’t work from the drivers switches. Aside from that, great car. Must use loctite though on the bolts for the three engine mounts as they will undo - especially the one under the battery.
Would love a series 2 with leather, cruise and the 6spd.
Nice buy!
I too had my TCM fail, and replaced it with a reconditioned one. This time I relocated next to the rear of the battery box so it’s not sitting in top of the transmission, overheating again. I too had my ABS module go on the BL series Mazda 3m and this is not cheap to get a reconditioned one. Apparently it tends to happen on the BL series more than others, it’s also got to according to the serial number of the ABS module.
Here a proud 2003 MT Mazda 3 owner! 2.0L, 150 horses. Own it already for 10 years, and it will do 20 years this year! Restrictions are going so bad here in Europe, and new/2nd hand cars are all skyrocketing in price, no doubt I'm still maintaining mine for many years to come, not interested in new cars. Very glad with the power/sound of this engine (yeah, not very powerful though, but more than enough for me). The chain-belt for longevity is a plus. But it's true that mine has always burnt some oil. Already ordered 4 struts and will change them soon as mine I think are still the originals and have gone pretty soft. Changed both suspension arms last year as in the inspection they saw the bushings have gone bad. Good thing that here in Spain it doesn't rain much, so I do have rust just in very tiny spots. High five to other BK owners!
Nice!
About to test drive a 2005 mazda 3 2.0 manual transmission on monday. Its quite cheap as it didnt pass the mot but the reason why it didnt pass, its fairly easy to fix the mechanic told me. The mazda seems to drive like a charm, will find that out soon tho. Does the 2005 have a chain or belt? I see mixed videos about that. I know what to listen for if it has a chain. It'll be my first ever car, been eyeing mazda for ages and the one that I found, has basically everything I look for. But, gotta testdrive it and see if there arent any hidden problems...
Mazda 3's are a chain, I've never heard of one going bad
@@ColtonRichter Thanks! Took the Mazda 3 for a testdrive yesterday and she runs like a charm! Quiet motor and eager to go. She comes with a bit of rust tho but nothing too bad at all. Easy to fix. Some visual love and she's good to go. Glad I ran into your channel, it helps me understand the 3 better and perhaps fix things myself if needed.
Gears of the power window typically brack, but, it is an easy diy, and they are aboy 1 to 2 euros each so cheap as well. Mine already has over 340k, the only issues that i had was the EGR wich "burned" the eletronnic, easy to change it by yourself and the MAF sensor, other then that, just do regular maintnense every year, chaginging suspension rubber (in the to do list) since it started to wear off.
You named every problem that I’ve had to fix on my 2.3 since owning it😂😂
I just know 😎😂
2013 Mazda 3 2.0l 110k miles and I had purge valve and both rear shock mounts break. Rear shocks may need replacement soon but no other issues 🫡
Edit: my car had an issue where the lights would flash while stopping. Mazda dealership had to update my cars computer. It was a software issue. it cost $200 :/
In Australia they have the SP23 and SP25 versions in that year range, the 2.5l are rare though
The SP25 (2.5L) series came on the BL series Mazda3.
The problems I have had with my 2008 Mazda3 2.0l were the creaky plastic center piece where the shift lever is, the rattling glovebox, one of the rear shocks broke. I also probably need a new motor mount since sometimes my car shakes at 100km/h on the highway. The only issue that truly stresses me out is the growing rust on both rockers and around the rear wheel wells. Only one winter was enough for the rust to eat through the metal. I can manage the few spots on the roof and the hood, but I'm gonna have to get a friend to weld new metal pieces lol. Alse the whole undercarriage is full of rust everywhere. I fear my car is a time bomb
You should take a look at my Offroad Mazda 3, if it's not worse than that then you're good to go haha
i had a 2.3, 330 000km burned no oil, i owned it from 157 000 and did the pcv when i bought it, the only reason i had to scrap it was the frame rotting out. just maintain your engine, use good oil and they will be fine
My 2.3 currently is at about 298000 km. Has no issues with burning oil but the rear main seal does piss about a quart of oil away between oil changes. Aside from that the car runs beautifully and hasn't really caused me any issues since I got it at 200000km
02:22 ye si can confirm that mazda 3 2liter engine is not fast
But i also have to say that this car look like an old school(2000s) street sport cars from nfs underground with great handlings
Thanks bro! I am consodering getting one in Germany, will do the tests. It is only owner, 144k km. 2007
Nice!
I have a 2010 Mazda3 5MT. Bought it at 77k, now has 176k. Doesn't burn any oil. I've only done normal maintenance - drive belts, water pump, thermostat, rear shocks and mounts. I also replaced the trasmission fluid with Redline. 1st to 2nd gear grinding is virtually non-existent now.
I need to replace the valve cover gasket soon and replace the front and rear struts/shocks. Its been a very reliable car.
Nice!
Hi Colton. I like the Mazda 3 very well. Here in Germany you can buy a 1,4 and a 1,6L,too. The 1.6L/105 Hp is very good and widely used. I would be interested to know why you took the sedan and not the hatchback? Greetings 😎😏
Not sure, something about the Sedans just get me a bit better than the hatch!
3:26 The word "Necessarily" with an energy I've never experienced in my entire life.
lmao
I’ve got a Mazda 3 sp23 on 318 000, haven’t owned it that long but it seems to go fine. Look for chain rattle when starting
I suppose you're probably in that mileage of the chain starting to stretch and go, legend
I have had my Mazda 3 with the 2.3 in it for a few months now had a pcm code when I got it but that was only do to with carbon in the throttlebody and I feel like this car was not taken care of before me and still has no other issues doesn’t burn oil been great to me since day one
If it ain't burning oil she's a gooder
Well that was an enlightening video on the Mazda 3, so on buying a used one what could possibly go wrong.
I love my car and I love your subject and you just got a new subscriber
Cheers
I have the 2.0 it's on rc coilovers resonator delete cat deleted power flow exhaust, angel eye head lights, with colour change leds in the grill also, and all the mps trim, it looks like mps sounds like mps, but go's like 2.0 haha, it puts a smile on my face when I drive for sure, going the short shifter next, love the videos 👍
Nice!
Going to look at 2007 Mazda 3 with 200,000km in it. It is going to be my first car. It’s 5,000 AUD. A good deal?
I don't know, compare to your market.
Just got a 2010 mazda 3. Learning alot about them and many seem to love them. My cavalier burned off oil about qt. Per gas tank lol
That's crazy
2006 mazda 3 2.3L manual no severe issues as far at motor or transmission bought at 171,000 mi at 189,000 now. Suspension needs to be replaced as well as tie rods and tie rod ends!
Sounds about right
Big fan of ur channel, I just picked up a 08 5 speed s sport
Nice
My daily driver is 2008 Mazda 3 2.3L Manual with 203,000miles engine & transmission still going strong. Done some minder repairs but not too $$$$
Nice!
Bought a Mazda speed 3 2013 a year ago with 51k on it it’s manual and I just love it
Nice!
I own 2008 2.0 diesel 6speed manual hatchback. I see you only had gasoline engines. Diesel is fun because of its 360nm torque (265 in your units). Good power from 1500rpm
Oh man I would love to have a diesel Mazda 3 in Canada
Thanks for a thorough and honest feedback. I think I'll go with a Toyota.
Aw man 🥺
You are hilarious! Enjoyed the video. Thumbs up.
Just bought a 2009 BL Mazda 3 Neo for my wife, very pleased with it, not sure about mileage figures we`ve only had it a week, but it`s quite loud in the road noise dept. Quite a bit more in my opinion to her previous car - which we still have, a 2004 E46 Bmw 318i M sport.
And much much noisier that my 2009 Ve Holden Commodore Wagon. Enjoyed your video,
Ps I`ve been told that moving the TCM to the firewall helps greatly in lengthening the life span. I`m thinking `move it - plus wrapping it in a heat reflecting material.`
What do you think. cheers from Brisbane Australia.
Yes would suggest moving i
Wish I would have known this before I bought a 2.3
The 2.5 is a direct swap with the 2.3 and it's a huge jump in power
Yup!
Definitely check for Rust! Just did an oil change myself and noticed my transmission pan is severely rusted :/
Yes I forgot to mention it... although all you see are my rusty fenders 😂
We have an 05 2.3l with 198k miles,, and have had zero issues.. just passed California smog with no problem… I’ve heard no comments about timing chain replacement???
Timing chains don't need to be done in the regular Mazda 3's
i've got a 2012 mazda 3 2L and she still goes great at 186,000kms
Still tons of life!
How do you avoid burning oil in the 2.3's? I check my mine every now and then and and it's always at the half way mark. But then again I'm at 173k miles so has to be burning oil right?
Like I said in the video, burning oil you most likely will need the entire PCV system re-done with new parts. It clogs itself.
Nice video. Thanks
Good tips, thanks. Looking at an 07 S hatch with the 2.3. Synchros seem to be common, this one has a grind if you're being rough going into gear
Sounds right
@@ColtonRichter should I buy it? I don't smell oil so that's not an issue. Motor mounts and rear shocks all done within the past 20k miles. Really on the fence with this one because of mileage however...
Hi bro, you gave really good details about mazda 3. I am new immigrant in Canada ( Vancouver) and i was more into to buy mazda3 in cheapest price. So i tried marketplace and got some but mostly with motor issue. Could you please provide a rough estimate for changing of motor. Would it be a good idea??
Just buy a running one, Vancouver has incredibly expensive 3's right now
I was looking at a potential next car for me, and two rather minor issues I had were the blinkers weren’t synchronised and rearview mirror was a bit chipped
I bought a 2008 Mazda 3 2.3L back in March and it was fine until sometime in April when both the tcm and abs control pump went out. It sat for a solid 6 months before I was able to get it fixed and now I need a power steering pump 😅 But even with all those issues, the engine is still running strong with over 250k miles on it. I have encountered an odd issue though, from time to time the alarm will go off at random. I don’t have a key transmitter so I don’t really know what I could do to fix that problem
I've heard about the alarm thing too, can't remember if it had something to do with sensitivity or what not
I got a 2014 sky activ 2 litre and apart from the very small faint oil leak from the valve cover gasket and the rear shocks and the fronts are now due I've never had any issue with it at all. Does alot of km lately.
Sounds like a soldier!
Some info on the 1.6 would also be appreciated.
European model, didn't get them in the USDM market.
I’m looking at a 2011 Mazda 3 I touring 5 speed, 127,000kms. It’s for sale for 5500$ CAD, do you think it’s a decent rig for the common issues ?
Sounds like a good deal!
in europe there are 1.6 models and my GT trim car has the 2.0 so some of these things depend on your country as well
I have a 2.3 just through a rod a couple days ago 😂 already have motor out waiting for new to put in , it's M/T
Nice!
they have also 1.4 (rare) and 1.6 engines in europe, 1.6 is good one too, i had 2 mazdas from 07 with 1.6 engine
Hmmmm. Im at 191k miles and haven't had problems as of yet. Coolant is the only problem I have. But either way I enjoy your videos because of the aesthetic idea for look for the car.
Not bad! Thanks for watching :)
@@ColtonRichter of course. Your videos are the reason I bought a mazda3. I also found out so much that is needed to be done now. Thanks for the advice on RMM and trail bushing
I’m buy a mazda 3 2008 manual 2.0 L how good are they?
I love mine
I have a 2005 it's amazing. The 2008 would be even better. 298xxxkms
I have a Mazda 3 2007 Manual 2.0 L and it’s the best thing. But I do have a problem with the transmission but given the fact it has 264,000 miles I’m putting a new one in. What he explained in the video about it being cold not crunching and in the hot crunching, that’s what my 3rd gear did and it gave out so know I have to drive 2nd to 4th. That’s the only problem I’ve had tho but it’s a great car
Good to know what i'll be dealing with soon LOL @Albertt
Thank you 🙏 guy’s I love my 2008 Mazda 3 Manual stick
Shaniqua is built like a tank 🥰
Can confirm
@@ColtonRichter oh I know 😉
Eye balling a 2nd gen 2012 i Sport, little over 160,000 miles on it, manual trans. Pictures of it look fairly clean, asking about $4,000 so price isn't really an issue, will have to make some mental notes from what's said here. Any other gremlins that may be lurking in particular to this vehicle ? ( 2nd gen ).
It's basically the same car, different body. Have a gander through it!
Got a 2011 2.0. 270,00 km and still going strong
Sounds great!
Was thinking about buying a 2005 2.3 automatic sedan with a little over 100k miles... Should I look for another one?
Internal combustion engine, electric motors. One powers itself via fuel, the other requires a battery or " outside power source"
My windows/ and my bcm was bad it caused my lights to turn off while I was driving out of where and sometimes while driving.
Just a quick question, the Mazda 3 I just purchased has 195 x 65 x 15" tyres on steel wheels. I want to upgrade to a set of alloy wheels, what size tyre would you recommend - I`m thinking 16" or 17"..wheels.......
I`m not concerned about speedo reading error as I have fitted a HUD... heads up display unit, thanks again.
Neither will make your speedo incorrect, decide what size you want
how do u know the difference between the 2.0 or 2.3L?
Many say '2.3' on the body, or you can find out from the specs.
21’ turbos are also building up a list of problems including burning a quart to a litre of oil just before 8000kms..
Damn for real? I mean turbo cars you should expect to burn oil, but that's pretty early...
@@ColtonRichter yeah alot of people have their dashlight come on because theyre nearly out of oil lol i hope they do a recall soon, shouldnt be burning alot this early
Damn, interesting coming from the 3's as the CX's dont seem to have that
cóolent outlet gasket in 2008 3. First thing went out in mine..
Gen 1 2.3 in canada have timing chain stretch issues
switching to synthetic oil helps with the oil issue but you can't ever go back once you put change over
Hey man I just picked up a 07 mazda 3. I just installed coilovers, wheels, brakes all around, sway bar links, rear control arms, it is 5 speed. I'm looking to replace the front bumper which one would you say would look best? Would like one with fog lights
The one that's on the car in my opinion
Hey man just got a 2007 mazda3 sedan, about 375000kms on it. When starts it sounds loud like it’s on high rev inside the car but seems fine outside, normal sound. The clutch pedal kind of vibrates when pressed to shift gears. But other than that runs smoothly and no loud rev sound in the car from 4th and 5th gear change. What’s your take on that?
If your clutch pedal shakes when you're holding in the clutch that's normally a sign of a bent rod in MazdaSpeed terms, not sure if it's the same with the 3's
If I'm on stock suspension at 190k miles, is it worth it to do the suspension work or just drive the car into the ground? Will the remaining life of the engine warrant the work done to the suspension at this point in the car's life?
I figure $400 for coilovers, then whatever the cost is for end links, trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings if needed (I need to test for sound and whatnot next time I have the car lifted).
So is that investment justified given the miles on my engine/trans?
If the ride isn't that bad it might not be worth it imo. BUT if you really like the car and think you might go for another one when it dies you could always keep your suspension parts or sell em and get some of your money back
I'd maybe save and look forward to another car to do things to, run your current into the ground without spending a dollar on it
One of the most common things I’ve noticed is the headlights fog up quick. I’ve had an 05 2.0 and now a 06 2.3 and both same issue. The 2.3 I just got makes weird noise going into 3rd gear, it shifts great and smooth and works awesome in 3rd just makes the noise shifting into the gear. What you think can help?
If you're grinding into third it sounds like the trans is on its way out
Hey Colton, which province are you in? I am planning to buy a new Mazda 3 2.5l. What are your thoughts on the 2.5?
2.5 is a great motor!
Is there an aftermarket bumper? If so, what bumper?
My synchros are going out on my 2012 2.0 5 speed
Sad times
Damn what about the 2.5? Mazda 3 s sport 2010? Are the problems pretty much similar?
Mostly
Motor replacement on 2.3 Mazda 3 Hatchback, 2005 model. Can you pull the engine and leave the 5 speed transmission in place? Or must you pull the transmission also? Which is more practical or easy?
I'd probably pull the whole thing at once
im having a hard shifting problem but isnt springing any codes - mechanic checked it out and also said there was no issues with the trans. It has 128xxxkms. Is it possible that it's the tcm on the way out?
Yes
I was looking at a 2012 Mazda 3 maxx sport hatchback here in Australia and it has the 2.0 motor and 5 speed sports automatic with the paddle shifters, is that transmission reliable and is it made by ford, I heard the 5 speed auto is unreliable...the car has travelled 115,000 kilometers
Automatic's alright, just don't take well to a constant beating
If anyone sees this, I was wondering how many of these issues carry over to the 2nd generation? I'm looking to get a 2nd gen Skyactiv auto hatch and want to make sure I don't miss anything.
It's the same car
I own an 07 2.3l Mazda 3 with 276k miles. Still have yet to burn any oil... But the AC compressor thingy has blown like 6 times lmao.
Damn unlucky brother
My 2018 2.0 engine is not as zippy as my 2008 Mazda 3. Why is this so? Is it the SkyActive?
Partially, and a heavier car is an added factor.