BIQU H2 V2s Review: Is this Direct Drive 3D Printer Extruder any Good? (Part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2023
- BIQU H2 V2S Review - Part 1 of 2
BIQU H2 V2S (Temu): share.temu.com/nKXdYY2pt6A
BIQU H2 V2S (Amazon): amzn.to/3rP1x2u
Hey guys, in this video I will be reviewing the BIQU H2 V2s direct drive extruder. It's a great upgrade for any 3D printer and especially good for those printing with flexible filaments or wanting to improve their print quality.
In this video, I'll be going over the pros and cons of the BIQU H2 V2s, as well as my overall impressions of it. I'll also show you some examples of prints that I've made with it.
Pros:
- Direct drive extruder for better control over filament flow
- Dual gear extruder for more consistent extrusion
- Lightweight and compact design
- Easy to install and use
- Compatible with most 3D printers
- Can print with a variety of filaments, including flexible filaments
Cons:
- You need to find a compatible duct system (and probe mount)
- The included heat break is not all metal, so you'll need to upgrade it if you want to print at high temperatures
Overall Impressions:
I'm really impressed with the BIQU H2 V2s. It's an excellent upgrade for any 3D printer and especially good for those printing with flexible filaments or wanting to improve their print quality. I would definitely recommend it to anyone who is looking for a new extruder.
Keywords:
biqu h2 v2s, direct drive extruder, 3D printer extruder, review, comparison, tutorial, upgrade, flexible filaments, print quality
Call to action:
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- Leave a comment below and let me know what you think of the BIQU H2 V2s.
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#biqu - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Sorry to bother, but I need to know: do the mounting holes go from side to side, through the hole block, or are they blind? Thanks in advance :)
Did you change Extruder conector wires in H2 side? It was Red/Blue/Green/Black... than in your video it is Red/Greem/Blue/Black. Thanks!
I did not change the wires. I might have used a different connector.
Wera tools hex keys are shaped so they push against more surface area in the corners, so they don't strip and don't stick. It might sound weird but they have a nice illustration about it..
I specifically bought it for 1.5s, and could tell an instant difference in the feel. I can provide a lot more torque without stripping and without them sticking in 1.5s, or any bolt really. After 4 years of printing, they felt like magic.
I will take a look at them.
Actually better than the one that came on my printer...ive got a biqu-bx now upgraded to this head....ive also got a ender3v2 with the h2v2s revo .....banging
I like it as well.
I purchased one to upgrade my Biqu B1. I wanted a direct drive and needed hardened nozzles for printing CF filaments. The extruder itself works very well and has eliminated blobbing with PETG. It also prints TPU very nicely. I have not managed to get the high temp PT100 and MAX31865 working though. I have installed it with a normal NTC100K encased thermistor. For the time being I don't need 500C. The issue I have had is finding accurate information to compile the custom firmware needed to use the PT100 in the extra stepper drive position. Bigtreetech are very poor at providing the information needed and the installation is y no means 'drop in'. I might add I am conversant with compiling software. I ended up designing and printing my own mounts. I found the mount that BTT has on their GIT repository offsets the home position considerably and reduces the available Y axis displacement. I also eliminated the ridiculous custom 'USB C' cable that Biqu uses to connect the hot end. I wired everything direct to the control board; I don't need the flashing LEDS in the hotend.
Late to this party, but I've been looking at the H2 as the 1st mod to my old ender 3 with 4.2.2 MB. @anthonyjackson280, did you buy the Biqu H2 500C and just replace the thermistor to use with your existing firmware? Any thoughts on how compatible this will be with existing firmware on Ender 'X', etc printers? (I realize that E-steps will likely need to be set; I'm more concerned about stuff that requires compiling firmware.)
@@rv7builder397 the original thermistor was a bead type jammed under the head of a screw on the original. I purchased a rod type thermistor from Amazon meant for a different printer. Works a charm. Just has to be NTC100K type.
I bought 2 of this extruders in BQ on sale. Haven't opened them yet. I am thinking to upgrade my older printers to Klipper. so I worry this extruder doesn't product enough flow rate for high speed printing.
I think you will be fine. I am also testing using a volcano heatblock with them and that works good.
Wow there is a lot of mounts to get this thing set up!
My biggest issue with mounts is finding one that has a bltouch mount and will work with linear rails.
I modified the 5010 dual to fit 5020 fan dual.
the fan is on the other extruder but not on the new one when your weighed them
Thanks. I missed that. The fan is 4g
@@minimal3dp no worries
If i see you fidling around with the rvs screw's 😅
I asked myself wy don't we use order nary steel ones, they magnetic and stick to the screwdriver 😂
They are steel. I need to remagnetize my screw driver.
@minimal3dp what screw driver is that? I’m using an oversized kolbalt one and it’s WAY too big for this hobby lol.
Im thinking about buying this in 2024
I like this extruder and the Creality Sprite.
You didn't weigh the fan...
My bad. I think I missed the fan guard as well.
the mad duct is one of the worst mounting solution there is, use the airduct provided by biqu, it works great, the H2 can be mounted directly to the hermit crab ,no need for an adaptor
The adapter lowers the h2 on my mercury build. Otherwise, the bed and nozzle will barely touch. I need the extra couple of mm..
The supplied duct doesn't have a bltouch mount but I will look at it again.