Good video Andrew Is there no need to lubricate the slide wheels or the area where they run please? I’m trying to service a bank of four FCR’s that don’t operate smoothly!
Thank you! No. That should be free and clear and all typically any needed lubricity will come from fuel. You can even clean all of that stuff by wiping off with a clean shop towel. Thanks for watching!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Thanks for replying. I really appreciate the advice as the inside has been lubed with what looks like molybdenum grease! I’m just cleaning them up now in an ultrasonic bath 👍 Thank you
Did this carb work proper? That float height looked wrong. And noticed when you did the fuel screw seemed out of order. I've been rebuilding an 06. That float height is super critical.
Hello, thank you for sharing ;) At 25:24, what is the role of black plastic part ? I broke this one and I'm trying to find it on the web but I think it's impossible. Do you have an idea the fix my problem ? Thank you
@benjaminm.1965 oh the overflow tube barbs. They allow any extra fuel to flow out of the carb and down the tie to below the bike to avoid getting in the hot exhaust and igniting in case of a tip over.
How do you figure it's non-serviceable? If you're talking about those four screws holding the top and bottom half together just take a small screwdriver and bend that post in the middle of the screw head back and forth until it snaps off and then you can use an allen wrench to disassemble it.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- The early models up to 2002 have the mid body section glued together with JB weld-looking glue from factory. Its a known issue, but there's hardly any info on how to open them without cracking the case or bolts. Google it. Im surprised you havnt heard of it.
@ryanelliott1650 hard to start when hot, plug center insulator too white and electrode a little Grey. You can heat the bike uo and then use a new plug for diagnosis. Run the bike at idle, mid range or 3/4 throttle for 60sec and then shut off and look at plug. It will give you a good idea of that fuel circuits jetting is. Engine cutting out is a sign of way to lean as well. Engine header getting extremely hot also. Or feeling boggy but no cutting out.. power feeling flat and engine sounding dirty/ like a double firing sound instead of smooth while accelerating are signs of richness. As well as dark smoke when chopping throttle. Lots of soot on inside of exhaust tip. Stuff like that. Start with Manufacturers recommended jetting, fuel screw, hot start lever and idle settings on a stock engine. If lean issues then completely disassembled carb and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed, removing all jets and clean the same.
you missed the small gasket on the mid body ....in the bowl side are 2 screws ....use a 5/64 lockout bit and hammer it on a little , then impact it off ....replace the gasket and clean out the ports ....thats where my pilot jet port was clogged .... ......................................................................and ride like you stole it
You're right but I actually did replace it after this and what was just use a tiny screwdriver and bent those little tabs off on the inside and now and Allen wrench works perfectly
Sayin is now we’re cooking with peanut oil !
Thanks great content
That carburetor looks new! Good little mini lesson on thumb anatomy too! 😊 love yq!
Thanks. Ha ha. Comes natural with an RN for a mother. 😉 thanks for watching. LYT!
Good video Andrew
Is there no need to lubricate the slide wheels or the area where they run please?
I’m trying to service a bank of four FCR’s that don’t operate smoothly!
Thank you! No. That should be free and clear and all typically any needed lubricity will come from fuel. You can even clean all of that stuff by wiping off with a clean shop towel.
Thanks for watching!
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- Thanks for replying.
I really appreciate the advice as the inside has been lubed with what looks like molybdenum grease!
I’m just cleaning them up now in an ultrasonic bath 👍
Thank you
If its dark stuff that just natural wear ans tear grime from the parts and fuel.
But my pleasure. Glad to help!
Did this carb work proper? That float height looked wrong. And noticed when you did the fuel screw seemed out of order. I've been rebuilding an 06. That float height is super critical.
Yep works perfect! Float height was dead in. I checked with calipers.
Hello, thank you for sharing ;) At 25:24, what is the role of black plastic part ? I broke this one and I'm trying to find it on the web but I think it's impossible. Do you have an idea the fix my problem ?
Thank you
The piece with the wire? That's the throttle position sensor. It optimizes ignition timing according to throttle opening and load on the engine.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- no the part wich Connect the durite. The plastic part is on the laiton part. There is 2 durites connected in the same place
@benjaminm.1965 oh the overflow tube barbs. They allow any extra fuel to flow out of the carb and down the tie to below the bike to avoid getting in the hot exhaust and igniting in case of a tip over.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- but Why 2 durites on the same output ? Can I use only one durite ?
@benjaminm.1965 Redundancy. In case one gets clogged at the end.
I have a fcr 39, the early "nonservicable" one. Any suggestions on how to split it safely?
How do you figure it's non-serviceable? If you're talking about those four screws holding the top and bottom half together just take a small screwdriver and bend that post in the middle of the screw head back and forth until it snaps off and then you can use an allen wrench to disassemble it.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- The early models up to 2002 have the mid body section glued together with JB weld-looking glue from factory. Its a known issue, but there's hardly any info on how to open them without cracking the case or bolts. Google it. Im surprised you havnt heard of it.
How did you brake the float bowl tube ?
Trying to change the pilot jet on the bike. It's never affected the bike once.
Onde encontro essa peça da bomba de aceleração?
Are you referring to the boyesen quick start? If so you should be able to order it from their website.
How did you figure that it rich down low but lean up high ?
Based off the bikes performance.
@@Fixin2Ride-Official- thanks for the reply but
could explain what the symptoms were
@ryanelliott1650 hard to start when hot, plug center insulator too white and electrode a little Grey. You can heat the bike uo and then use a new plug for diagnosis. Run the bike at idle, mid range or 3/4 throttle for 60sec and then shut off and look at plug. It will give you a good idea of that fuel circuits jetting is. Engine cutting out is a sign of way to lean as well. Engine header getting extremely hot also. Or feeling boggy but no cutting out.. power feeling flat and engine sounding dirty/ like a double firing sound instead of smooth while accelerating are signs of richness. As well as dark smoke when chopping throttle. Lots of soot on inside of exhaust tip. Stuff like that. Start with Manufacturers recommended jetting, fuel screw, hot start lever and idle settings on a stock engine. If lean issues then completely disassembled carb and clean thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed, removing all jets and clean the same.
you missed the small gasket on the mid body ....in the bowl side are 2 screws ....use a 5/64 lockout bit and hammer it on a little , then impact it off ....replace the gasket and clean out the ports ....thats where my pilot jet port was clogged .... ......................................................................and ride like you stole it
You're right but I actually did replace it after this and what was just use a tiny screwdriver and bent those little tabs off on the inside and now and Allen wrench works perfectly
how to remove the accelerator tube？
You mean the throttle cables?
I think it's now we're cooking with gas, what the machine this is on?
Lol! Yeah that's what I meant! Haha. This carburetor is off of my 2006 Honda CRF250R race bike. Thanks for watching