Excellent video. Will be buying a new gasket kit for mine. It’s an FCR carb from a 2004 CRF450 on an XR600 that is running lean and won’t tick over and coughs then cuts out. The jetting is correct, taken from other bikes the same. However, the old rubber gaskets are rock hard and was sceptical whether they were sealing. After watching your video I will order a gasket kit and also venture into the mid section of the carb which I avoided due to the small screws that I was not sure if they would survive me busting them open. Now I am a little bit more confident. Thanks alot mate - from the UK.
Just what I needed to see. My 08 crf450 sat for 5 months and didn't want to start. Noticed the carb wasn't pumping . Found the bowl full of jello , midbody gaskets were junk, and pump diaphragm was shot. Thank you for the great content, I'm subed . Now i have to figure out why my rmz450 is smoking like a train after i just replaced the piston , one valve guide , valves and cam.
Use non ethanol fuel if you can at 90 octane minimum in your Honda. The RMZ, check to be sure the rings are clocked properly. Also, check your valve play in the guides and look for cracks in the guides. Thanks for your support.
Nice video man commentary was all useful and on point. I'm hoping that slant and mx FCRs work more or less the same. I'm about to rebuild a slant and every youtube video depicts an mx😬
Honestly, I use the same kit for all of the FCR variants. Of course, not everything from the kit fits every carb but the mid body gaskets are all the same. Thanks for your comment and support.
Yeah, I'm currently dicking around with the FCR on my YFZ450. It's running great, but bogs from idle to full throttle. Pretty sure adjusting the ap timing will sort this out, but if not, it runs great under normal operating conditions, so I'll just leave is as it is. Still kind of annoying as I personally like everything functioning 100%.@@restoroosterohv
All of the FCR carbs for the race bikes are similar. In fact, I buy my rebuild kits for the YZ250F because they are the cheapest and they work on almost all of the carbs I have rebuilt.
@felixmartin92mf most of the seals and gaskets should fit perfectly. Not saying that all of the parts are interchangeable but the mid body gaskets will. Keep in mind, you are looking for YZ250F kits, not YZ250 (2 stroke). Totally different setup.
I have a manual that appears to show the "slide throttle plate" inverted, have you ever seen this miss info. I am having problems with inconsistent idle, when warmed up it will after run when backing off. Eventually it idles down, but it's just not right. Having decades with jetting older carbies in things like BSA Bantum 125s, Honda/Yamaha step through's, rotary valve TC90, TS185, DT400, heaps of pre 90s VWs singles & twin carbied, & injected, KLX250. But this KLX400e is the first slant slide pumper I have ever rebuilt. I found a post alerting to this "Manual" fuckup. So while rebuilding, I most likely followed the manual. About to strip the bike down to check. It's a real pain to get this thing out. Any comment would be welcome. Cheers from Downunder.👍
I have not yet run into this particular mistake. I’ve rebuilt many a FCR and the plate will always point up. Inverting them will cause idle issues as it blocks off the airflow at the bottom of the slide. Some of the manufacturers won’t even let you put them upside down by putting little tabs that insure correct orientation.
hi, thanks for the vid, saved my life. Just one question, you mentioned metering in the throttle sensor, do ya have some numbers what should be meassured in open and close. Just like to check that everything is ok, it looks that the pre-owner of the bike messed around with the carb and other stuff. Thanks Chris
i dont think the ethanol fuel is quite as bad as folks make it out to be, i ride about 250-300 hrs per year in socal, dont really care what fuel i put in the bike at the gas station...what i do and i think anyone with a carburetor should do is to drain the fuel from the bowl after every ride...just leave fuel in the bowl when your riding....most bowls have the drain screw, i had to buy a later model bowl for my crf450 to get that screw...this way you can rest assured the carb is pristine inside since it really is the heart and lungs of the bike....
You hit the nail on the head. Drain the carburetor to get the alcohol out of it. If you do that or turn off the petcock and run the bowl dry you will be in far better shape. Most people wont take the time unfortunately. Ethanol remover additives don't work either. Where the problems come in is the fuel in the tank will attract moisture from the atmosphere over time. If you run the bike and replenish the fuel on a very regular basis, it shouldn't be as much of an issue. Also, on older bikes, the rubber fuel lines and internals of the carb are not ethanol compatible and will be damaged over time. Some people don't have access to ethanol free fuel and have to do what they have to do, I get it but I would avoid using it in any small engine if at all possible. I've even seen corrosion in the fuel pumps of the FI bikes due to it. Bad Stuff. I could go on about the decrease in power that ethanol produces over pure gas but we'll leave that for another day. Haha. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
I have 1st hand experience with ethanol fuel ! Bottom line is don’t leave it sit in your carburetor for any extended length of time it it will damage it !!!
It’s not the ethanol that damages the carb, it it the moisture that it attracts. This moisture will corrode the aluminum. Ethanol in itself does no damage to aluminum parts at least at 10%
First of all, thanks for an amazingly detailed video. This is exactly what I needed. Once I disassembled and cleaned my carb I found two of the bearings on the "carrier?" (with the four wheels) are shot. Is there a way to replace just those bearings? Can you replace that entire carrier? Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
I appreciate your support. If you get some measurements off of the bearings, you can probably order some on Amazon or eBay. Of course, all of the parts are Usually available OEM through your local dealer or somewhere like Rocky Mountain ATV
As a follow up: Before I paid $99 for a used throttle valve off eBay, I blasted the bearings with carb cleaner inside and out and much to my surprise, it worked! They didn't look dirty at all, but they now spin like new. Just a heads up if you run into some "bad" bearings
I never got to see you replace the o-rings on that swivel piece that the fuel line connects to. That's exactly where my carb is leaking gas from... 07 trx450er
On carbs where the feed tube comes out, it’s (usually) as simple as removing the retaining screw and pulling it out. Replace the o-rings and reinstall. I like to use a little dielectric grease on them before sliding it back in.
@restoroosterohv You're the man! Thanks for the tip. I just had my carb done with a rebuild kit. Didn't realize the mid had separate gasket kit. Thank you for making this video! Gives me enough info to confidently do it myself.
You’re welcome. I typically buy the mid body gasket kit for a mid 2000s YZ 250 F. There are obviously some things that won’t fit your model, but the mid body gasket should and the kit is super cheap, like $12 off of eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/314602234399?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zPFaiN4iSpi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=K8gv8TS9R3W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
There really is no factory setting for the idle screw as far as turns. Once you start the bike, adjust the idle rpm to the manufacturer recommendation.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I purchased a 2005 yz450f and it came with a non oem carburetor. I wanted an oem one as a lot of people have problems with these jungle carbs as you say. I wasn't able to find a 2005 yz450f carburetor anywhere, but I found a 2003 yz450f and as per yamaha they are the same. My question is the non oem bowl has a leak jet but my oem keihn 2003 yz450f bowl does not have a place for a leak jet. Will this be a problem? Should I use the non oem bowl with the leak jet? Thanks in advance.
That’s a good question…The leak jet is for the accelerator pump. Honestly, I would bolt up the 03 carb unchanged and see how she reacts to the throttle.
@restoroosterohv I also did see that in the manual and partzilla website, no leak jet is mentioned and on partzillas website no leak jet is shown in the diagram so not sure if the oem even comes with a leak jet hole or if these jungle manufacturers decided to add one for some odd reason but thanks again.
@restoroosterohv just did a little more research, and the 03 to 04 carb does not have a leak jet. It is blocked off, but they added it to the 05 carb. Is your recommendation still to use the 03 bowl that had no leak jet or use the jungle one with a leak jet? Thanks again. Have a good day. Keep up the awesome videos
I currently have mine apart and didnt see where the plastic washer went. I saw you put the metal washer on after the shaft went through the spring and bearing. Was the plastic washer already on by that point?
Hello I bought a used yz250f 2009. I had some issues with how starting.. I dit valves clearances, carb clean.. and that help a lot.. But I notice that my carb hot starter was missing.. and I thing thats the problem.. My question is.. Do a hot starter really make huge diference to start the engine when is hot? Thx 🙏🏻
what grease did you use on the shaft bearings upon reinstall? thanks trying to rebuild mine and this is first time to ever do anything like this. i have suzuki super grease C so far at this point. thanks! and what grease for the glistening o-rings?
What way do i need to put the rubber o-ring around the vacuum plate? Does it need to be flush with the plate, or does it goes the other way around (kind of standing up - not flush)? I have a CRF250R 2007, runs lean all the time, checked almost everything - from valves to tps, leaks, jetting, etc etc.. Just cant get it right for some reason. Also, throttle is sticking when it runs, looks like some sort of vacuum problem. When i shut the bike of, pull 2-3 times on the throttle, it comes lose again. maybe someone can help me here, thanks :)
The O-ring on the slide plate (which can be a pain in the ass to get on correctly sometimes) should face with the cup seal out. That seals the plate against the slide. Running lean through all stages of acceleration generally tells me there is an air leak. Double check for leaks around your intake manifold, and the carburetor. Also check to make sure that your hot start is adjusted properly and not hanging open. Did you replace the mid body seals? They can get as hard as a rock over time.
@@restoroosterohv Thank you! I'll try to put it on corrrectly since it was upside down.. If it still runs lean i'll try the mid body seals. I did check the hot start, did not see any problem with it, altho it is still the plastic one. No further air leaks from what i can discover by spraying brake cleaner. I'll have another look! Thanks again
Another victim of ethanol fuel. I used VP 94 octane , non ethanol in my road bikes for years until it got to expensive in the 5 gallon pails. Those engines could sit for 1.5 years and start up like and run like it was 2 weeks ago since started. F Al Gore and his ethanol mandate.
Those were the good ole days. If you go to pure-gas.org it lists all of the ethanol free stations around you. At least you can still get it in most places.
I can’t answer about it still running as I sold the bike. I use the same kit for all of these FCR carbs. It is an eBay kit for the YZ250F and they run me about $12 each. Not everything in the kit works for all carbs but it is the mid-body gaskets that I am after when getting them. They fit well and can’t beat the price.
Agreed. Not to mention that they automatically adjust for temp and atmospheric pressure. However, if a carb is maintained, it will just work where FI has a bunch of components (pump, regulator, throttle body, injector, air temp sensor, MAP sensor, water temp sensor, capacitor, power coils in the stator, tip sensor and TPS) that could at any time fail and leave you stranded. I’d still go FI. Thanks for your comment.
1-How much are your pump and injectors if/when they fail? Because I can get a rebuild kit as low as 20 bucks, and fix it myself. 2- if you wanted to change your bikes character how much would an ECU swap or tune cost? A carb can be jetted for around 100 bucks. And an adjustable fule screw and know how will keep you going in different temps and altitude. 3- I'll give you this it would be nice to be able to take your spark arrestor out, change exhaust system, and use aftermarket air filters without having to diddle the fuel screw.
@@restoroosterohvThanks for the rapid response! I have a WR450F but every kit says it doesn’t fit my bike, pretty sure the kits will fit my bike as i have a keihin. Any thoughts on this?
@ukie188 I use a yz250f kit for almost all of my FCR rebuilds. Some parts of the kit don’t work on all the carbs but the main seals are usually all the same.
@@restoroosterohv aah alright thankyou! Will try it out soon! One more thing my, the plastic T part on the left side of my carb where the 2 hoses from the vacuum line connect broke of on 1 side. I will be able to put 1 vacuum hose on but the other is now just a hole, is it replaceable or can my bike run fine with just 1 hose connected to it?
![Keihin FCR AP Not Squirting [How To Clean/Adjust Accelerator Pump]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q4chsxhGXz4/mqdefault.jpg)
I was looking for something that explained why my DRZ400 is having issues. I think you answered all my questions. Great video. Thank you.
So glad I was able to help. Thank you for your feedback and support.
Excellent video. Will be buying a new gasket kit for mine. It’s an FCR carb from a 2004 CRF450 on an XR600 that is running lean and won’t tick over and coughs then cuts out. The jetting is correct, taken from other bikes the same. However, the old rubber gaskets are rock hard and was sceptical whether they were sealing. After watching your video I will order a gasket kit and also venture into the mid section of the carb which I avoided due to the small screws that I was not sure if they would survive me busting them open. Now I am a little bit more confident. Thanks alot mate - from the UK.
Thank you. I appreciate your feedback and support.
I don't have a FCR carburetor, but the video was extremely informative!
Thank you!! Have xr600.
Thank you for your feedback and support
Just what I needed to see. My 08 crf450 sat for 5 months and didn't want to start. Noticed the carb wasn't pumping . Found the bowl full of jello , midbody gaskets were junk, and pump diaphragm was shot. Thank you for the great content, I'm subed . Now i have to figure out why my rmz450 is smoking like a train after i just replaced the piston , one valve guide , valves and cam.
Use non ethanol fuel if you can at 90 octane minimum in your Honda. The RMZ, check to be sure the rings are clocked properly. Also, check your valve play in the guides and look for cracks in the guides. Thanks for your support.
@restoroosterohv Thanks for the help , it's much appreciated .
You're welcome@@AlvjaDahat
This is the best carb rebuild video ive seen. Great job
Thank you for your feedback and support
Excellent video. Thanks so much for being so on point. You're the best!
Thank you for your feedback and support
fantastic video I am the proud owner of 04yz450r. It needs a rebuild and made it so easy
Thank you and glad I was able to help.
Bro! Q-tip king. Killer idea.
Haha, hope it helps. Thanks for watching
Nice video man commentary was all useful and on point.
I'm hoping that slant and mx FCRs work more or less the same.
I'm about to rebuild a slant and every youtube video depicts an mx😬
Thank you. Good luck with your project
Last time I started my 08 SXF 250 was 2 months ago. Now I'm worried. Great video BTW!
Thank you.
Been watching the channel for quite a while. Enjoyed every video i’ve seen so far. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for your feedback and support!
Keep the videos just like this plenty of information 👌🏻
Thank you for your feedback and support!
It's interesting to see how alike these Honda variants are to the Yamaha flavors. Nice video. Much appreciated!
Honestly, I use the same kit for all of the FCR variants. Of course, not everything from the kit fits every carb but the mid body gaskets are all the same. Thanks for your comment and support.
Yeah, I'm currently dicking around with the FCR on my YFZ450. It's running great, but bogs from idle to full throttle. Pretty sure adjusting the ap timing will sort this out, but if not, it runs great under normal operating conditions, so I'll just leave is as it is. Still kind of annoying as I personally like everything functioning 100%.@@restoroosterohv
@charlesevenstad I think you are on the right track with your diagnosis. Check that the AP is even functioning
Another great video thanks for taking the time to posting
Thank you for your feedback and support
If you're reading this, this carb is the same as a 2007 Honda Trx450er
All of the FCR carbs for the race bikes are similar. In fact, I buy my rebuild kits for the YZ250F because they are the cheapest and they work on almost all of the carbs I have rebuilt.
@@restoroosterohv so i can use yz250 carb rebuild kits for my trx450?
@felixmartin92mf most of the seals and gaskets should fit perfectly. Not saying that all of the parts are interchangeable but the mid body gaskets will. Keep in mind, you are looking for YZ250F kits, not YZ250 (2 stroke). Totally different setup.
@restoroosterohv9030 the jets might be different then, but the gaskets are practically the same. Oh yeah 2stroke is another machine lol
I have a manual that appears to show the "slide throttle plate" inverted, have you ever seen this miss info. I am having problems with inconsistent idle, when warmed up it will after run when backing off. Eventually it idles down, but it's just not right. Having decades with jetting older carbies in things like BSA Bantum 125s, Honda/Yamaha step through's, rotary valve TC90, TS185, DT400, heaps of pre 90s VWs singles & twin carbied, & injected, KLX250. But this KLX400e is the first slant slide pumper I have ever rebuilt. I found a post alerting to this "Manual" fuckup. So while rebuilding, I most likely followed the manual. About to strip the bike down to check. It's a real pain to get this thing out.
Any comment would be welcome. Cheers from Downunder.👍
I have not yet run into this particular mistake. I’ve rebuilt many a FCR and the plate will always point up. Inverting them will cause idle issues as it blocks off the airflow at the bottom of the slide. Some of the manufacturers won’t even let you put them upside down by putting little tabs that insure correct orientation.
hi, thanks for the vid, saved my life. Just one question, you mentioned metering in the throttle sensor, do ya have some numbers what should be meassured in open and close. Just like to check that everything is ok, it looks that the pre-owner of the bike messed around with the carb and other stuff.
Thanks
Chris
Hey Chris, the numbers and procedure differ from bike to bike.
@@restoroosterohv thats right. suddenly i got hit by the idea to check the repair manual, and there is a complete procedure how to check and adjust...
@chrisjoa936 best way to do it!
i dont think the ethanol fuel is quite as bad as folks make it out to be, i ride about 250-300 hrs per year in socal, dont really care what fuel i put in the bike at the gas station...what i do and i think anyone with a carburetor should do is to drain the fuel from the bowl after every ride...just leave fuel in the bowl when your riding....most bowls have the drain screw, i had to buy a later model bowl for my crf450 to get that screw...this way you can rest assured the carb is pristine inside since it really is the heart and lungs of the bike....
You hit the nail on the head. Drain the carburetor to get the alcohol out of it. If you do that or turn off the petcock and run the bowl dry you will be in far better shape. Most people wont take the time unfortunately. Ethanol remover additives don't work either. Where the problems come in is the fuel in the tank will attract moisture from the atmosphere over time. If you run the bike and replenish the fuel on a very regular basis, it shouldn't be as much of an issue. Also, on older bikes, the rubber fuel lines and internals of the carb are not ethanol compatible and will be damaged over time. Some people don't have access to ethanol free fuel and have to do what they have to do, I get it but I would avoid using it in any small engine if at all possible. I've even seen corrosion in the fuel pumps of the FI bikes due to it. Bad Stuff. I could go on about the decrease in power that ethanol produces over pure gas but we'll leave that for another day. Haha. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
I have 1st hand experience with ethanol fuel ! Bottom line is don’t leave it sit in your carburetor for any extended length of time it it will damage it !!!
It’s not the ethanol that damages the carb, it it the moisture that it attracts. This moisture will corrode the aluminum. Ethanol in itself does no damage to aluminum parts at least at 10%
@@restoroosterohv you are absolutely right the ethanol attracts the water which in turn corrodes the aluminum
First of all, thanks for an amazingly detailed video. This is exactly what I needed. Once I disassembled and cleaned my carb I found two of the bearings on the "carrier?" (with the four wheels) are shot. Is there a way to replace just those bearings? Can you replace that entire carrier? Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
I appreciate your support. If you get some measurements off of the bearings, you can probably order some on Amazon or eBay. Of course, all of the parts are
Usually available OEM through your local dealer or somewhere like Rocky Mountain ATV
As a follow up: Before I paid $99 for a used throttle valve off eBay, I blasted the bearings with carb cleaner inside and out and much to my surprise, it worked! They didn't look dirty at all, but they now spin like new. Just a heads up if you run into some "bad" bearings
Great tip. Thank you. I sure do love brake cleaner.
I never got to see you replace the o-rings on that swivel piece that the fuel line connects to. That's exactly where my carb is leaking gas from...
07 trx450er
On carbs where the feed tube comes out, it’s (usually) as simple as removing the retaining screw and pulling it out. Replace the o-rings and reinstall. I like to use a little dielectric grease on them before sliding it back in.
@restoroosterohv You're the man! Thanks for the tip. I just had my carb done with a rebuild kit. Didn't realize the mid had separate gasket kit. Thank you for making this video! Gives me enough info to confidently do it myself.
You’re welcome. I typically buy the mid body gasket kit for a mid 2000s YZ 250 F. There are obviously some things that won’t fit your model, but the mid body gasket should and the kit is super cheap, like $12 off of eBay.
www.ebay.com/itm/314602234399?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zPFaiN4iSpi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=K8gv8TS9R3W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Quick quiestion, by the way thank you for the video, is there any adjustments for the sliding plate on the screws on top,please let me know,thanks
Can you elaborate or send a picture to restoroosterohv@gmail.com
I’m wondering how many turns to set the idle screw back to factory such as the , oil mixture screw which was explained.
There really is no factory setting for the idle screw as far as turns. Once you start the bike, adjust the idle rpm to the manufacturer recommendation.
What a great video! Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback and support.
Great job 👏 thx. Very helpful.
Thank you for your feedback and support
Great video. Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback and support
The kits didn't come with the accelerator kit. Did it come with the mid body o rings?
No and no. These are separate kits.
Thanks for the video. I have a question. I purchased a 2005 yz450f and it came with a non oem carburetor. I wanted an oem one as a lot of people have problems with these jungle carbs as you say. I wasn't able to find a 2005 yz450f carburetor anywhere, but I found a 2003 yz450f and as per yamaha they are the same. My question is the non oem bowl has a leak jet but my oem keihn 2003 yz450f bowl does not have a place for a leak jet. Will this be a problem? Should I use the non oem bowl with the leak jet? Thanks in advance.
That’s a good question…The leak jet is for the accelerator pump. Honestly, I would bolt up the 03 carb unchanged and see how she reacts to the throttle.
@restoroosterohv thanks for the quick reply will do.
@restoroosterohv I also did see that in the manual and partzilla website, no leak jet is mentioned and on partzillas website no leak jet is shown in the diagram so not sure if the oem even comes with a leak jet hole or if these jungle manufacturers decided to add one for some odd reason but thanks again.
@restoroosterohv just did a little more research, and the 03 to 04 carb does not have a leak jet. It is blocked off, but they added it to the 05 carb. Is your recommendation still to use the 03 bowl that had no leak jet or use the jungle one with a leak jet? Thanks again. Have a good day. Keep up the awesome videos
My advice is to bolt the carburetor on as is and use it.
I currently have mine apart and didnt see where the plastic washer went. I saw you put the metal washer on after the shaft went through the spring and bearing. Was the plastic washer already on by that point?
As you slide the throttle shaft through the bearing, the steel washer goes first, then the nylon washer, then the slide link.
Thank you, you are a gentleman. The video is fantastic.
@jaymarshall2326 your welcome thanks for watching.
Hello
I bought a used yz250f 2009. I had some issues with how starting.. I dit valves clearances, carb clean.. and that help a lot..
But I notice that my carb hot starter was missing.. and I thing thats the problem..
My question is.. Do a hot starter really make huge diference to start the engine when is hot?
Thx 🙏🏻
Yes, it leans the mixture. If it is not in the carbs at all, that is going to be a problem
@@restoroosterohv thx man 🙏🏻
You’re welcome
what grease did you use on the shaft bearings upon reinstall? thanks trying to rebuild mine and this is first time to ever do anything like this. i have suzuki super grease C so far at this point. thanks! and what grease for the glistening o-rings?
I use dielectric grease on the o-rings. You can use that on the shaft as well I used standard bearing grease on the shaft in this build.
@@restoroosterohv thanks!!!
Another great video!!!
Thank you!
I found a replacement float valve seat on eBay from mxdude out of the Netherlands .
Not sure I would know how to replace it. Mind sending me the link to restoroosterohv@gmail.com?
You the man!
Haha, thanks.
May I ask where do you buy carburetor repair kits?
Sure, Rockymountainatv.com
What way do i need to put the rubber o-ring around the vacuum plate? Does it need to be flush with the plate, or does it goes the other way around (kind of standing up - not flush)?
I have a CRF250R 2007, runs lean all the time, checked almost everything - from valves to tps, leaks, jetting, etc etc.. Just cant get it right for some reason. Also, throttle is sticking when it runs, looks like some sort of vacuum problem. When i shut the bike of, pull 2-3 times on the throttle, it comes lose again. maybe someone can help me here, thanks :)
The O-ring on the slide plate (which can be a pain in the ass to get on correctly sometimes) should face with the cup seal out. That seals the plate against the slide. Running lean through all stages of acceleration generally tells me there is an air leak. Double check for leaks around your intake manifold, and the carburetor. Also check to make sure that your hot start is adjusted properly and not hanging open. Did you replace the mid body seals? They can get as hard as a rock over time.
@@restoroosterohv Thank you! I'll try to put it on corrrectly since it was upside down.. If it still runs lean i'll try the mid body seals. I did check the hot start, did not see any problem with it, altho it is still the plastic one. No further air leaks from what i can discover by spraying brake cleaner. I'll have another look! Thanks again
Nice video!
Thank you
I've only got 4 to clean on my bike 😃
And sync probably
Another victim of ethanol fuel. I used VP 94 octane , non ethanol in my road bikes for years until it got to expensive in the 5 gallon pails. Those engines could sit for 1.5 years and start up like and run like it was 2 weeks ago since started. F Al Gore and his ethanol mandate.
Those were the good ole days. If you go to pure-gas.org it lists all of the ethanol free stations around you. At least you can still get it in most places.
I believe you meant to put episode 57 instead of episode 56 since the last video was 56
Good eye, I’ll get that changed. Thanks
what kit did you use? if it was an ebay kit is it still running?
I can’t answer about it still running as I sold the bike. I use the same kit for all of these FCR carbs. It is an eBay kit for the YZ250F and they run me about $12 each. Not everything in the kit works for all carbs but it is the mid-body gaskets that I am after when getting them. They fit well and can’t beat the price.
Where do you set the idle screw for slide height
As a base setting, just a bit above fully closed will usually work
There is nothing like a fuel injected bike. no carb to rebuild, just a fuel pump and an injector
Agreed. Not to mention that they automatically adjust for temp and atmospheric pressure. However, if a carb is maintained, it will just work where FI has a bunch of components (pump, regulator, throttle body, injector, air temp sensor, MAP sensor, water temp sensor, capacitor, power coils in the stator, tip sensor and TPS) that could at any time fail and leave you stranded. I’d still go FI. Thanks for your comment.
1-How much are your pump and injectors if/when they fail? Because I can get a rebuild kit as low as 20 bucks, and fix it myself.
2- if you wanted to change your bikes character how much would an ECU swap or tune cost? A carb can be jetted for around 100 bucks. And an adjustable fule screw and know how will keep you going in different temps and altitude.
3- I'll give you this it would be nice to be able to take your spark arrestor out, change exhaust system, and use aftermarket air filters without having to diddle the fuel screw.
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Hey do you have a link to the set you used? And do they ship to the Netherlands?
If you are talking about the rebuild kit, I got it from eBay. It will depend on the seller as to where they ship.
@@restoroosterohvThanks for the rapid response! I have a WR450F but every kit says it doesn’t fit my bike, pretty sure the kits will fit my bike as i have a keihin. Any thoughts on this?
@ukie188 I use a yz250f kit for almost all of my FCR rebuilds. Some parts of the kit don’t work on all the carbs but the main seals are usually all the same.
@@restoroosterohv aah alright thankyou! Will try it out soon! One more thing my, the plastic T part on the left side of my carb where the 2 hoses from the vacuum line connect broke of on 1 side. I will be able to put 1 vacuum hose on but the other is now just a hole, is it replaceable or can my bike run fine with just 1 hose connected to it?
Those hoses are just vents and the bike will run fine. The problem you’ll probably find is that when the bike gets laid down fuel pour out of that.
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Moore Lisa Hernandez Timothy Walker Kenneth
Martin Paul Gonzalez Jennifer Wilson Michael
Brown Jessica Rodriguez Jessica Anderson Susan
Clark Edward Young Frank Perez Betty
Anderson Sandra White Brian Martinez Nancy
Young Sharon Lee Helen Lewis Jason
If people would use there bikes and drain the damn fuel if being stored longer than two weeks this wouldn’t happen. Stop being lazy
I use non-ethanol fuel as it is very obtainable here. If you have to use pump gas, at least cut the petcock and run the brown dry.
Perez Laura Miller Donna Harris Deborah
Lopez Kimberly Taylor Anthony Martinez Larry
Anderson Ronald Davis Melissa Martinez Laura