Lovely work! NC&StL 576 is my favorite steam loco. I grew up around her in Nashville, with frequent guided tours by my railroader grandfather (51 years with L&N). By the time I was 12 (76 now) I could describe every system and control on 576. I drove with my oldest son and twin grandsons from Evansville to Nashville to watch her being moved from Centennial Park to the museum where the restoration work is being done.
You go girl. I really admire you for taking on this job. I have been following Keith and Adam of Abom 79 and I find myself chomping at the bit to see the next episode. I am not a machinist but I wish I had learned when i was a young man. Keep up the good work.
Video should have been titled, “Fun with Fixtures.” The various methods to rigidly hold the parts were the highlight of the show. Entertaining and educational as always, thanks.
Quinn, one of the principles of machinery use is to work within the equipment limits. Approaching those limits as closely as possible is especially necessary for those of us with limited resources when tackling difficulties caused by new or unanticipated requirements. In my view, you do an outstanding job of working within your equipment and background limits whatever they might be. Also, you would have been and are an exceptional teacher.
Glad to see you doing some of the steam stoker engine parts. Keith is one of my four favorite channels to watch. That was a pretty big job for your machine but you managed to get it done. Good job!
My appreciation for all things Blondihack continues to grow learning of her interest in steam engines and sports cars. Geez, girl. You're uber cool. I appreciate how you share your thinking and learning processes. Thank, Quinn. Cheers from Vancouver.
Wow! So you got inducted into the steam restoration biz. You surely maxed out the capabilities of your machines. You were competing with machines literally 5 and 10 times the size of yours and you produced parts with superior tolerances. In those days 10 thou was considered good and 5 thou was reserved for valves and bearing surfaces. I'm trying hard to produce parts for 1:64 steamers on the same machines and here you are in the real world. Well done.
Can you imagine? You're going to be able to go see that engine in operation. maybe take a ride on it. and you'll say to yourself, "Self, we built those guides for the stoker." Good work, Quinn. Pushin'; the envelope is always fun. It's just easier to do when your machine is light and your envelope is small.
Thanks for sharing this project. I really enjoyed the practical discussion on work holding in a small machine, and willingness to show an approach that didn't work as well as hoped.
One quick thought, a fun project is to make a fly cutting bit that accepts a carbide insert. It was an interesting project and I got great finishes with a 1/16 radius insert. Cheers to you.
That was so cool ! ! I am happy that Keith Rucker excepted your offer to make parts for the stoker engine that will fire that ALCO Northern. This YT collaboration is a kin to the Apollo Capsule hatch project, difference being it will see actual service.
Damn you!! I watch you so much... I said it! Argh.. Tappy tap tap... On a side note. I and others, I'm sure do appreciate the way and style you talk through the process ! I'm learning from you, Blondi. Thanks!
You can also use the DRO to measure the length accurately. Measure a 1-2-3 block with the caliper and place it (or 2) on the part to be measured with the side exactly equal. Clamp the 1-2-3 block. This is length A. Now, measure the length from the 1-2-3 block to the other side of the long part with the DRO and an edge finder. This is length B. A plus B gives the fairly accurate length of the part that is too long. Anyway, imho better than working with a ruler ;-)
Hey Quinn, I just got off the phone with Stefan gtteswinter and we both agree your parts from your small machine shop could go on the space shuttle .. you are always +/-.0005 well with in spec.. Thank you Pete m
Wow, glad to learn you love steam. Glad you are a part of the restoration. I have a friends who work on restoring steam, one of them has a day job doing the same for the NPS at San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park so he works marine steam by day and locos for fun. Speaking of marine steam, Pier 45 burned two days ago but did not damage the historic Liberty ship Jeremiah O'Brien which is full of steam engines driving everything from the winches to the prop.
Quinn, Really nice job with bars on the steam stoker engine, liked your narration on your video, and considering the size of your mill great job thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
Hi Quinn,. I'm trying to acquire a mill so was great to watch. When I was young and lived on a farm in southwestern Saskatchewan we still had steam engines. From what I understand they were the last steam power used by the CPR. I fondly remember seeing the train comming from town as we could see it about 3 miles away and a crossing about a mile away that it always blew the steam whistle at. That sound is still riveted in my memory and sometimes you could really hear it so well. It was such a unique melancholy and maybe lonely sound that I have never forgotten it. I have wanted to hear that sound again so many times. I'm sure the steam engines were still running into the 60's and I always would stop to hear that whistle blow. Dale in Canada
I do get a bit tired of seeing the YT big boys chewing inches at a time from a scrap spacecraft heatshields . Nice to see some practical solutions to small mill problems.
I bought a 7.5 HP turret lathe for $500, and a mill with 12x42 table for $1000. I had to build my own gantry to unload it. It only cost me $400 to build a gantry that can easily handle my 5000lb lathe. So you can get big iron for as cheap as brand new small machines to take inches off if you shop around.
Quinn, you've got more determination than I do. I wouldn't even have tried that job with a small hobby mill, but you got good results. BTW, 21/32" really isn't an odd size. It provides 1/32" clearance for a 5/8" fastener. It was a fractional world back then.
One of my favorite cutters is a 2" dia. 4 flute indexable facemill. The carbide inserts like being buried and pushed... leaves a great finish on alum and steel... tho 1018 can be tricky(gummy). I like the side clamps you made!
Very nicely done. I feel your pain working on a smallish bench top mill. The important thing is that you got the job done. Thanks for sharing and helping Keith out.
Made a steam oscillating engine in trade school. Graduated as a machinist currently working in an aerospace machining job. Keep up the good work and as always love your content.
amazing to watch some parts being made for an old steam engine and another good video to watch, I always look out for a new video from you now as I there are really well done..I also got into this because of my love for steam engines, coming from the uk there was always a place close to go and see them
With the material overhang, sometimes just clamping a heavy clamp, or light clamp with a block of steel to act as a damper, may improve surface finish. Good set up on the table, impressive machining for machine limitations. Using a double action or orbital sander can hide a multitude of surface finish short comings. 80 to 180 grit is fine. Great vlog Quinn, and thanks for a great vlog.
I’ve watched all of Keith’s stoker engine videos twice now (and all the other channels videos). I’m so stoked (pun intentional) that you were able to get in on it!
Thanks Quinn. I recently acquired the same mill as you are using and your setup ideas will be super valuable to me, especially the low profile clamps. A good laugh was had when you ran out of Y axis because I did the same darn thing a couple of days ago with my first pitch circle set up. As they say, pride cometh before a fall and I was so proud of myself that this 111 mm 8 hole pattern was so easy, then I got to the last hole and was about 50 thou shy of being able to drill it. Oh well, live and learn. keep up the cool stuff.
I also have a lifetime of working on British cars. They teach you to deal with frustration serenely as you do or to learn to apply all of the curse words you know in new and interesting combinations!
Pushing the capacity of your machine is the hallmark of a good machinist. Also don't feel bad about the finish, I've been a machinist for 30 years and getting a good finish on 1018 is still an exercise in frustration.
Slab milling cutters on a horizontal mill are the way to go for this I think. I did some 1020 with mine and it came out almost mirror like in shine (but with 'wobbles' courtesy of the cutter runout). I think the teeth kind of burnish the surface as they enter the cut when you conventional mill with that kind of tool, so you get a surface finish with shininess similar to the ground finish on the cutter teeth.
Gday Quinn, these parts look fantastic, I’d say you would have almost fill the shop vac with chips, I’ve been following Keith’s rebuild on the stoker engine and it’s going to be awesome to see it finished, thanks for sharing this Quinn, take care Matty
Well done Quinn. Great video as usual and great job. Very down to earth lady who shows that even the best an make mistakes. Pleas keep up the great work. All the best from Australia.
You should use a metal cutting saw blades in a table saw. I regularly rip thick plate with one. Cut 1 in plate at about 1 foot per minute. Plus you have a drop of usable material.
Ok on aluminium but surely not on steel? The surface speed is way too high, you'll burn up the saw teeth in no time. That being said, ripping with a saw can be the way to go. I have a horizontal mill so I sometimes use a slitting saw to 'rip' material off oversized stock.
Hi Quinn, large cutters are always a challenge. Try moving the cutter over so it's just hangs over the edge of the job. With this setup milling conventional and not climb, this will do two things. I it will reduce the loading on each tooth as you have more of them in contact at any given time and improve the finish as the teeth are pushing along the job rather than across it. This second point reduces vibration as your not "pinging" the metal. Imagine pushing a stick in a bicycle wheel, then turning the stick edgeways and doing it again. Which makes most noise. This principle also works on fly cutters by again keeping the tooth in contact for the longest possible amount of time. Great channel, I look forward to each new upload.
I have been watching your use of the 1,2,3 blocks and was wondering when we would see you do some set ups with them bolted together...usually the cheap ones don't have holes laid out in such a way that you can bolt them together for any useful set up. The hole diameter problem is one I never got too as I was always shut down by the holes in wrong places first. Again, thanks for showing the "problem" issues and how you deal with them. That is the most interesting part of things.
One thing that I've learnt to improve surface finish, when the parts are tall in the vice the workpiece is less stiff in the horizontal direction so it will flap a bit with the cutting action If you position the cutter so that the initial point of contact is tangental to the workpiece edge it will put more of a longitudinal force on which will be more rigid. It is also a slightly smoother approach into the work piece rather than an interrupted cut, again better surface finish The one issue with this approach is if your vice/holddown clamps have poor holding force the part may slip. Great video Quinn
I used to have a problem with my mill drill stalling under heavy load, but ever since I upgraded to a DC treadmill motor it's never stalled (of course I'm using almost the maximum reduction of the four original pulleys, which helps immensely!) My max rpm is only about 1400, which is a little slow, but before the upgrade I ran everything at 650 rpm because changing the belts was such a pain.
You could save yourself some deburring when facing the edge at 4:50 by starting your cut at the other end of the piece (the left end as you face the mill), rather than starting on the right end. That way, the burr is pushed towards the middle, instead of the edge and is trimmed off when you move the cutter forward to finish the cut, again pushing the burr to the middle. It's a trick I learned from Stefan Gotteswinter.
@@Blondihacks True, especially on a smaller mill where rigidity is more of an issue. I tend to use this trick when I'm making shallow finishing cuts. I admire your work and have learned a lot from you.
HA!!! "1930's steam powered fist shake." Love it! And... Sandusky? Uhh ..ok. Your little mill did a good job! Well done as usual. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Tip on using the 1-2-3 block threads. I bought a pack of “Foto&Tech 10 Pieces Metal 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch Convert Screw Adapter for Tripod Monopod Ballhead DSLR SLR” for seven dollars on amazon. They screw into the block sub flush and reduces the tread to 1/4” so the screw can go through the other holes. You could also screw them into your T-nuts to hold the blocks down.
I like the way you compensated for the rigidity problems , I just hope I never have to deal with those kind of dimensions. I guess if I do I'll call you for help. Thanks stay safe.
Most excellent video as always ... I too have the budget Chinese Lathe and Mill , so a very good heads up for me ... funnily enough the reason I'm doing this , is I have the casting for a 5" Boxhill Terrier steam locomotive ... which one I will build, once I have learnt how to use the machine and spent years making accessorises for my machines ;-)
I really like you Machining videos, I was just going to say , please don’t think I’m being too critical, I would have probably have used some thin Aluminum or brass while using the clamps to hold down the 1 , 2 , 3 blocks to protect their surface . We use Zinc in our shop as well. Keep the videos coming!
Sweet! You've shown us the little wobbler engines before, so I knew you had a little bit of soot and steam oil in your blood. I actually came to appreciate hobby machining by way of Keith Appleton. He does build and repair of model steam trains, boats, plants and engines... mostly Stuarts, but many interesting others. What is it with steam engines and guys named Keith, anyway? Anyhoo, this was fun to watch and also fun to see your excitement. Many thanks.
As I thought the steam items were straight forward how can you make an interesting video of 20 minutes to catch ones attention. Well you did. I ve been watching all the creativity you needed to handle this job. In the Netherlands we say " Chapeau" for your excellent teaching qualities and video. Sightforsoreeyes ! Luc Bleckmann Netherlands Europe
Always good to see others' set up ideas... My mill is a bit heftier than yours, but not much I think....even so, I have to be careful about cut speeds and rigidity.... Good video....
I had a fun discussion once with an engineering professor about efficiency. He was arguing that the small super precision high speed motors he was working on were vastly more efficient than a steam motor. I brought up over all efficiency and that it's a lot easier to make parts with precisions measured in 1/8's of an inch and that some big old steam engines in England had run for over one hundred years without any major repairs, and BTW what was the life expectancy of his little motors??? And what about repair... well the small fast precise are not really repairable, you just need to replace. SO steam engines are WAY more efficient if you look at the whole life cycle.
Remember hot parts always measure smaller after cooling. We have about same mill yours did some better than mine with oversize side mill.😀 Project looks good to me.
Quinn, you have made the god Emperor rogal Dorn and Keith Rucker very proud I have not forgotten about joining your patreon. those coffee mugs I have to get two of them and maybe one day you can sign one of them because I really love those mugs and what you do!
I would be honored to sign them! They drop ship from a different part of the country so I never touch them, but if you bring one to an event like GOTL or similar, I’ll sign em!
@@Blondihacks you just keep making my day Quinn you truly do I know I'm just one person in a sea of viewers and fans and for somebody who's also a fellow Machinist it's not so much the signing of the Immaculate coffee mug but merely taking the time out to do the little things such as replying to comments and being willing to autograph such merch for individuals such as myself after that I am eternally grateful quick side note because I know my grammar is horrible you have by far the most cutest cat that I can hear in the background of the video that cat must be a sweetheart
I'm watching this months late, but as someone who started repairing farm machinery as a boy and then spent 45 years designing it as an engineer - the 21/32's drill is not an odd size! As a high school robotics mentor, I teach my student machinists to select a drill 1/32" (or 0.5 mm, and yes - I know they aren't the same but I need a drill that will be in the set) larger than the bolt. 21/32's would be the typical choice for a clearance hole for a 5/8's capscrew.
@@Blondihacks No problem, you more than made up for it with related advice in a more recent video - if you need to drill a hole of unimportant size, pick the bit that is 1/32 smaller than a common size. It will be sharp because it has almost never been used.
I was always wondering about the steam engines, you mention them so often but never show any. So happy to see new content =). BTW, I love your channel and I'm currently watching all your lathe skill videos, cause I just bought my first hobby machine! Best wishes
Great video. I think tables are underrated :). It’s not just a place to bolt your vice. Glad to see everyone is helping Kieth. I tell my wife if I win one of those insane lottery prizes I’m buying a steam engine and building a track around the outside of our farm. I’ll be the insane guy people love to talk about when they drive past, but I’ll be the one having a blast. Whooooo whooooo. Who’d have thought Blondie Quin is a steam lover as well.
One of the reasons i got the HBM versions of the PM25mv was that it comes with a 1000w brushless motor thats about 1.34hp, only slightky bigger but you notice on the bigger jobs, I have been told that the 1100w is a direct fit so if I ever need to replace mine I know what I will get. Have you ever thought of cnc'ing it?
I used a ccmt insert tool in my flycutter, and it leaves a shiny finish on plain carbon steel. Maby for the next time. (Also have a short video on it (not trying get views here, just trying to help))
Nicely done. I have a slightly more heavy setup than yours, but so far only half a horsepower from the motor. Today I did the first trial-run of a replacement motor that is 1100W (1.5HP). There's a bit more work needed, including fitting the reverse-switch that I already bought for my old motor, but never actually fitted because "it was working". I got a bit more urgent need to fit it now, as the motor as it is currently wired runs in reverse, so I haven't actually done any milling yet (I don't have any left-hand milling cutters - I wouldn't be at all surprised to find out they do exist, but there certainly are none in my workshop). So that's tomorrow's task, get it running the right way around. I could've done the "just plug the wires in the other way according to the diagram that came with the motor", but as I would like to be able to run it in reverse in the end, there's a good reason to "do it right to begin with, as temporary solutions tend to last longer than you expect".
"... physics is going to happen and you won't like that." Thinking about this, I'm pretty sure we will like that. You won't. Your saw won't. But it should make for good watchin'. ;)
As soon as I saw you put that piece of steel in the vise I new what was going to happen. I have had the same problem with my 6inch Kurt vise. Not only does lose support in the Z direction it also tends to flex in the Y axis also I am sure your mill itself was flexing. There is a lot of cutting force with a .05 depth of cut. I haven't noticed your bench under the mill. You can add some rigidity to it by adding some weight underneath it. Maybe building a wooden stand or box underneath it and filling it with sand or concrete then bolt the mill through that to absorb some of the vibration. Not an expensive project but maybe worthwile for both your machines. Just some thoughts to share with you.
Quinn, I just found your channel I guess due to the algorithm that makes suggestions from others I watch like the three Keiths and ABomb and have spent more time reading the comments this morning than it took to watch the video. Quite often the comments have been for you to get a bigger machine, don't do it!! Your videos are great for the folks who have limited space and budget and are having a lot of fun working with machines like yours so your excellent instructions for using the mill help a lot of folks. Adam Booth would have taken a lot less time in his shaper making the guides but I kind of think it might not fit into your work space. There is an old saying in the trade no matter how big the machine is you sooner or later will have to exceed it's capacity. Looking forward to your PM Research project. Now to turn off the computer and make some more parts for my 2" scale Cole's Case tractor. Dick B.
ALLLLL I could think of, as you were agonizing over the finish was .... QUINN! It's going at the bottom of the tender! I appreciate the attention to detail, but if all goes well, those bars won't be seen until 2110!! :-D And I think one of your early videos hinted at your steam obsession with a model stationary engine. More Steam! More 8-bit!! More everything!! :-D
Thank you for helping with the restoration. Jeff@Nashville Steam
It was my pleasure, Jeff!
Lovely work! NC&StL 576 is my favorite steam loco. I grew up around her in Nashville, with frequent guided tours by my railroader grandfather (51 years with L&N). By the time I was 12 (76 now) I could describe every system and control on 576. I drove with my oldest son and twin grandsons from Evansville to Nashville to watch her being moved from Centennial Park to the museum where the restoration work is being done.
It's not the cut that hurts, it's the betrayal!
I feel like that's Tshirt material.
@@wildin13 airplane mechanic so there really isn't a week I come home without ;)
You go girl. I really admire you for taking on this job. I have been following Keith and Adam of Abom 79 and I find myself chomping at the bit to see the next episode. I am not a machinist but I wish I had learned when i was a young man. Keep up the good work.
Fun video. It seems the universal truth that no matter what the capacity of your machines, you will always end up needing just a bit more.
So, size does matter after all ;) ;)
Video should have been titled, “Fun with Fixtures.” The various methods to rigidly hold the parts were the highlight of the show. Entertaining and educational as always, thanks.
It is good of you to help keep this old technology in shape for the next generations of humanity. Thank You
Quinn, one of the principles of machinery use is to work within the equipment limits. Approaching those limits as closely as possible is especially necessary for those of us with limited resources when tackling difficulties caused by new or unanticipated requirements. In my view, you do an outstanding job of working within your equipment and background limits whatever they might be. Also, you would have been and are an exceptional teacher.
Thank you for helping Mr. Rucker .....
Glad to see you doing some of the steam stoker engine parts. Keith is one of my four favorite channels to watch. That was a pretty big job for your machine but you managed to get it done. Good job!
Its great watching this community share this restoration of that stoker engine, good job.
My appreciation for all things Blondihack continues to grow learning of her interest in steam engines and sports cars. Geez, girl. You're uber cool. I appreciate how you share your thinking and learning processes. Thank, Quinn. Cheers from Vancouver.
Wow! So you got inducted into the steam restoration biz. You surely maxed out the capabilities of your machines. You were competing with machines literally 5 and 10 times the size of yours and you produced parts with superior tolerances. In those days 10 thou was considered good and 5 thou was reserved for valves and bearing surfaces. I'm trying hard to produce parts for 1:64 steamers on the same machines and here you are in the real world. Well done.
Can you imagine? You're going to be able to go see that engine in operation. maybe take a ride on it. and you'll say to yourself, "Self, we built those guides for the stoker."
Good work, Quinn. Pushin'; the envelope is always fun. It's just easier to do when your machine is light and your envelope is small.
Thanks for sharing this project. I really enjoyed the practical discussion on work holding in a small machine, and willingness to show an approach that didn't work as well as hoped.
One quick thought, a fun project is to make a fly cutting bit that accepts a carbide insert. It was an interesting project and I got great finishes with a 1/16 radius insert. Cheers to you.
14:30 that is the crux of the ubiquitous cheap 123 block. And the solution is to grab a 3/8" carbide tipped masonry drill bit.
That was so cool ! ! I am happy that Keith Rucker excepted your offer to make parts for the stoker engine that will fire that ALCO Northern.
This YT collaboration is a kin to the Apollo Capsule hatch project, difference being it will see actual service.
So now I know why you are so good. You spent so much time working on British cars. There is method in our madness.
Damn you!! I watch you so much... I said it! Argh.. Tappy tap tap...
On a side note. I and others, I'm sure do appreciate the way and style you talk through the process !
I'm learning from you, Blondi. Thanks!
The tool marks serve well to hold lubricating oil. A mirror or ground finish won't work.
You can also use the DRO to measure the length accurately. Measure a 1-2-3 block with the caliper and place it (or 2) on the part to be measured with the side exactly equal. Clamp the 1-2-3 block. This is length A. Now, measure the length from the 1-2-3 block to the other side of the long part with the DRO and an edge finder. This is length B. A plus B gives the fairly accurate length of the part that is too long. Anyway, imho better than working with a ruler ;-)
I used to go see this train at Centennial park all the time as a kid. Hope to see it running one day.
I love how the community collaborates! Great job!
Hey Quinn, I just got off the phone with Stefan gtteswinter and we both agree your parts from your small machine shop could go on the space shuttle .. you are always +/-.0005 well with in spec.. Thank you Pete m
Wow, glad to learn you love steam. Glad you are a part of the restoration. I have a friends who work on restoring steam, one of them has a day job doing the same for the NPS at San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park so he works marine steam by day and locos for fun. Speaking of marine steam, Pier 45 burned two days ago but did not damage the historic Liberty ship Jeremiah O'Brien which is full of steam engines driving everything from the winches to the prop.
Quinn, Really nice job with bars on the steam stoker engine, liked your narration on your video, and considering the size of your mill great job thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
I'm surprised - pleasantly - that you're into steam engines; your videos are a treat either way and I am grateful for each one of them!
Thought it ironic that your glasses were fogging up as you were talking about steam engines.
I chuckled seeing that. I actually thought it was intentional lol
I guess Quinn gets steamy for steam engines? :)
Hi Quinn,. I'm trying to acquire a mill so was great to watch. When I was young and lived on a farm in southwestern Saskatchewan we still had steam engines. From what I understand they were the last steam power used by the CPR. I fondly remember seeing the train comming from town as we could see it about 3 miles away and a crossing about a mile away that it always blew the steam whistle at. That sound is still riveted in my memory and sometimes you could really hear it so well. It was such a unique melancholy and maybe lonely sound that I have never forgotten it. I have wanted to hear that sound again so many times. I'm sure the steam engines were still running into the 60's and I always would stop to hear that whistle blow.
Dale in Canada
If you’re anywhere near Saskatoon, we might know some of the same people. 😀🇨🇦
I'm really appreciating the new cold opens
I do get a bit tired of seeing the YT big boys chewing inches at a time from a scrap spacecraft heatshields . Nice to see some practical solutions to small mill problems.
I bought a 7.5 HP turret lathe for $500, and a mill with 12x42 table for $1000. I had to build my own gantry to unload it. It only cost me $400 to build a gantry that can easily handle my 5000lb lathe.
So you can get big iron for as cheap as brand new small machines to take inches off if you shop around.
@@chadjensenster But you still need space to work those machines. Not all of us are Americans =)
Quinn, you've got more determination than I do. I wouldn't even have tried that job with a small hobby mill, but you got good results. BTW, 21/32" really isn't an odd size. It provides 1/32" clearance for a 5/8" fastener. It was a fractional world back then.
One of my favorite cutters is a 2" dia. 4 flute indexable facemill. The carbide inserts like being buried and pushed... leaves a great finish on alum and steel... tho 1018 can be tricky(gummy). I like the side clamps you made!
Very nicely done. I feel your pain working on a smallish bench top mill. The important thing is that you got the job done. Thanks for sharing and helping Keith out.
You did good, this is where the rubber hits the road, when you have to stretch the machine a bit to fit the workpiece.
Steam power for the win! Great use of the machinery. Can't wait to see more steam content. You inspire me to do a better job keeping my mill clean.
I must say you are a very well spoken individual with presentation, very impressive speaker AAAA
Made a steam oscillating engine in trade school. Graduated as a machinist currently working in an aerospace machining job. Keep up the good work and as always love your content.
amazing to watch some parts being made for an old steam engine and another good video to watch, I always look out for a new video from you now as I there are really well done..I also got into this because of my love for steam engines, coming from the uk there was always a place close to go and see them
Awesome- thanks for watching! 😀
With the material overhang, sometimes just clamping a heavy clamp, or light clamp with a block of steel to act as a damper, may improve surface finish.
Good set up on the table, impressive machining for machine limitations. Using a double action or orbital sander can hide a multitude of surface finish short comings. 80 to 180 grit is fine.
Great vlog Quinn, and thanks for a great vlog.
I’ve watched all of Keith’s stoker engine videos twice now (and all the other channels videos). I’m so stoked (pun intentional) that you were able to get in on it!
Thanks Quinn.
I recently acquired the same mill as you are using and your setup ideas will be super valuable to me, especially the low profile clamps. A good laugh was had when you ran out of Y axis because I did the same darn thing a couple of days ago with my first pitch circle set up. As they say, pride cometh before a fall and I was so proud of myself that this 111 mm 8 hole pattern was so easy, then I got to the last hole and was about 50 thou shy of being able to drill it. Oh well, live and learn. keep up the cool stuff.
I also have a lifetime of working on British cars. They teach you to deal with frustration serenely as you do or to learn to apply all of the curse words you know in new and interesting combinations!
Pushing the capacity of your machine is the hallmark of a good machinist. Also don't feel bad about the finish, I've been a machinist for 30 years and getting a good finish on 1018 is still an exercise in frustration.
Slab milling cutters on a horizontal mill are the way to go for this I think. I did some 1020 with mine and it came out almost mirror like in shine (but with 'wobbles' courtesy of the cutter runout). I think the teeth kind of burnish the surface as they enter the cut when you conventional mill with that kind of tool, so you get a surface finish with shininess similar to the ground finish on the cutter teeth.
Gday Quinn, these parts look fantastic, I’d say you would have almost fill the shop vac with chips, I’ve been following Keith’s rebuild on the stoker engine and it’s going to be awesome to see it finished, thanks for sharing this Quinn, take care Matty
I actually did fill it twice on this project! 😀
Well done Quinn. Great video as usual and great job. Very down to earth lady who shows that even the best an make mistakes. Pleas keep up the great work. All the best from Australia.
You should use a metal cutting saw blades in a table saw. I regularly rip thick plate with one. Cut 1 in plate at about 1 foot per minute. Plus you have a drop of usable material.
Ok on aluminium but surely not on steel? The surface speed is way too high, you'll burn up the saw teeth in no time.
That being said, ripping with a saw can be the way to go. I have a horizontal mill so I sometimes use a slitting saw to 'rip' material off oversized stock.
Very cool job to do. Looked like a cool shipping crate too
Hi Quinn, large cutters are always a challenge. Try moving the cutter over so it's just hangs over the edge of the job. With this setup milling conventional and not climb, this will do two things. I it will reduce the loading on each tooth as you have more of them in contact at any given time and improve the finish as the teeth are pushing along the job rather than across it. This second point reduces vibration as your not "pinging" the metal. Imagine pushing a stick in a bicycle wheel, then turning the stick edgeways and doing it again. Which makes most noise. This principle also works on fly cutters by again keeping the tooth in contact for the longest possible amount of time. Great channel, I look forward to each new upload.
Offsetting like this also causes chip thinning, so it is equivalent to running a slower feed rate when it comes to spindle torque and surface finish.
I have been watching your use of the 1,2,3 blocks and was wondering when we would see you do some set ups with them bolted together...usually the cheap ones don't have holes laid out in such a way that you can bolt them together for any useful set up. The hole diameter problem is one I never got too as I was always shut down by the holes in wrong places first. Again, thanks for showing the "problem" issues and how you deal with them. That is the most interesting part of things.
One thing that I've learnt to improve surface finish, when the parts are tall in the vice the workpiece is less stiff in the horizontal direction so it will flap a bit with the cutting action
If you position the cutter so that the initial point of contact is tangental to the workpiece edge it will put more of a longitudinal force on which will be more rigid. It is also a slightly smoother approach into the work piece rather than an interrupted cut, again better surface finish
The one issue with this approach is if your vice/holddown clamps have poor holding force the part may slip.
Great video Quinn
Cool outstanding work on big. On simple machine.
I used to have a problem with my mill drill stalling under heavy load, but ever since I upgraded to a DC treadmill motor it's never stalled (of course I'm using almost the maximum reduction of the four original pulleys, which helps immensely!) My max rpm is only about 1400, which is a little slow, but before the upgrade I ran everything at 650 rpm because changing the belts was such a pain.
“Light saw cut finish”. That’s a good one!
You may want to listen to that one again... it was a "lights-off finish."
You could save yourself some deburring when facing the edge at 4:50 by starting your cut at the other end of the piece (the left end as you face the mill), rather than starting on the right end. That way, the burr is pushed towards the middle, instead of the edge and is trimmed off when you move the cutter forward to finish the cut, again pushing the burr to the middle. It's a trick I learned from Stefan Gotteswinter.
The problem with that trick is that you are climb milling, which I try to avoid on this mill.
@@Blondihacks True, especially on a smaller mill where rigidity is more of an issue. I tend to use this trick when I'm making shallow finishing cuts. I admire your work and have learned a lot from you.
I found your video from watching Keith's channel. I really enjoyed your problem solving and work on these parts. Great job :)
HA!!!
"1930's steam powered fist shake."
Love it!
And... Sandusky?
Uhh ..ok.
Your little mill did a good job!
Well done as usual.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
When coming up with family friendly exclamations, random words often come out of my face. 😬
@@Blondihacks HA!!!
OK, I 'll go along with that.
Tip on using the 1-2-3 block threads. I bought a pack of “Foto&Tech 10 Pieces Metal 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch Convert Screw Adapter for Tripod Monopod Ballhead DSLR SLR” for seven dollars on amazon. They screw into the block sub flush and reduces the tread to 1/4” so the screw can go through the other holes. You could also screw them into your T-nuts to hold the blocks down.
I enjoy your videos so much. You and TOT are my favorites. You make my day. I will become a patron soon, I promise. Thanks for all you do.
Thank you for watching! 😀
What a cool community project to be a part of!
Well done Quinn, Pushing the limits. I to got into machining for the same reason, Steam.
I like the way you compensated for the rigidity problems , I just hope I never have to deal with those kind of dimensions. I guess if I do I'll call you for help. Thanks stay safe.
Most excellent video as always ... I too have the budget Chinese Lathe and Mill , so a very good heads up for me ... funnily enough the reason I'm doing this , is I have the casting for a 5" Boxhill Terrier steam locomotive ... which one I will build, once I have learnt how to use the machine and spent years making accessorises for my machines ;-)
I really like you Machining videos, I was just going to say , please don’t think I’m being too critical, I would have probably have used some thin Aluminum or brass while using the clamps to hold down the 1 , 2 , 3 blocks to protect their surface . We use Zinc in our shop as well. Keep the videos coming!
Sweet! You've shown us the little wobbler engines before, so I knew you had a little bit of soot and steam oil in your blood. I actually came to appreciate hobby machining by way of Keith Appleton. He does build and repair of model steam trains, boats, plants and engines... mostly Stuarts, but many interesting others. What is it with steam engines and guys named Keith, anyway? Anyhoo, this was fun to watch and also fun to see your excitement. Many thanks.
As I thought the steam items were straight forward how can you make an interesting video of 20 minutes to catch ones attention. Well you did. I ve been watching all the creativity you needed to handle this job.
In the Netherlands we say " Chapeau" for your excellent teaching qualities and video. Sightforsoreeyes !
Luc Bleckmann Netherlands Europe
I really like your videos.....please keep them coming
Always good to see others' set up ideas... My mill is a bit heftier than yours, but not much I think....even so, I have to be careful about cut speeds and rigidity.... Good video....
Well done super video. Thanks for sharing.
Love that new cutter. Nice work
Steam BABY! Love everything about steam engines.
I had a fun discussion once with an engineering professor about efficiency. He was arguing that the small super precision high speed motors he was working on were vastly more efficient than a steam motor. I brought up over all efficiency and that it's a lot easier to make parts with precisions measured in 1/8's of an inch and that some big old steam engines in England had run for over one hundred years without any major repairs, and BTW what was the life expectancy of his little motors??? And what about repair... well the small fast precise are not really repairable, you just need to replace.
SO steam engines are WAY more efficient if you look at the whole life cycle.
Remember hot parts always measure smaller after cooling. We have about same mill yours did some better than mine with oversize side mill.😀 Project looks good to me.
Already subscribed, but liked, commented, and watched to the end. I look forward to your content every week, Quinn! Thank you for what you do.
Quinn, you have made the god Emperor rogal Dorn and Keith Rucker very proud I have not forgotten about joining your patreon. those coffee mugs I have to get two of them and maybe one day you can sign one of them because I really love those mugs and what you do!
I would be honored to sign them! They drop ship from a different part of the country so I never touch them, but if you bring one to an event like GOTL or similar, I’ll sign em!
@@Blondihacks you just keep making my day Quinn you truly do I know I'm just one person in a sea of viewers and fans and for somebody who's also a fellow Machinist it's not so much the signing of the Immaculate coffee mug but merely taking the time out to do the little things such as replying to comments and being willing to autograph such merch for individuals such as myself after that I am eternally grateful quick side note because I know my grammar is horrible you have by far the most cutest cat that I can hear in the background of the video that cat must be a sweetheart
Yeeeesss a new videooooo!!! I was showing signs of withdrawal already...
I'm watching this months late, but as someone who started repairing farm machinery as a boy and then spent 45 years designing it as an engineer - the 21/32's drill is not an odd size! As a high school robotics mentor, I teach my student machinists to select a drill 1/32" (or 0.5 mm, and yes - I know they aren't the same but I need a drill that will be in the set) larger than the bolt. 21/32's would be the typical choice for a clearance hole for a 5/8's capscrew.
Yah, I oversold that point in my excitement to be working on such a cool old machine.
@@Blondihacks No problem, you more than made up for it with related advice in a more recent video - if you need to drill a hole of unimportant size, pick the bit that is 1/32 smaller than a common size. It will be sharp because it has almost never been used.
Great to be able to contribute to something that is your passion! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I was always wondering about the steam engines, you mention them so often but never show any. So happy to see new content =). BTW, I love your channel and I'm currently watching all your lathe skill videos, cause I just bought my first hobby machine! Best wishes
Great video. I think tables are underrated :). It’s not just a place to bolt your vice.
Glad to see everyone is helping Kieth.
I tell my wife if I win one of those insane lottery prizes I’m buying a steam engine and building a track around the outside of our farm.
I’ll be the insane guy people love to talk about when they drive past, but I’ll be the one having a blast. Whooooo whooooo.
Who’d have thought Blondie Quin is a steam lover as well.
Very nice parts there. Welcome to the world of mistakes. Most of the time if I did not make mistakes I would not make anything.
One of the reasons i got the HBM versions of the PM25mv was that it comes with a 1000w brushless motor thats about 1.34hp, only slightky bigger but you notice on the bigger jobs, I have been told that the 1100w is a direct fit so if I ever need to replace mine I know what I will get. Have you ever thought of cnc'ing it?
I used a ccmt insert tool in my flycutter, and it leaves a shiny finish on plain carbon steel. Maby for the next time. (Also have a short video on it (not trying get views here, just trying to help))
yay a sly commmercial for your cups! glad I got mine and I use every day!!!!
Nicely done.
I have a slightly more heavy setup than yours, but so far only half a horsepower from the motor. Today I did the first trial-run of a replacement motor that is 1100W (1.5HP). There's a bit more work needed, including fitting the reverse-switch that I already bought for my old motor, but never actually fitted because "it was working".
I got a bit more urgent need to fit it now, as the motor as it is currently wired runs in reverse, so I haven't actually done any milling yet (I don't have any left-hand milling cutters - I wouldn't be at all surprised to find out they do exist, but there certainly are none in my workshop). So that's tomorrow's task, get it running the right way around. I could've done the "just plug the wires in the other way according to the diagram that came with the motor", but as I would like to be able to run it in reverse in the end, there's a good reason to "do it right to begin with, as temporary solutions tend to last longer than you expect".
You seem stoked about the stoker!
Triple word score for Steam, Kieth and Blondihacks. Rock on!
You only get a double score! "Keith".
Its great to be part of a bigger project.
"... physics is going to happen and you won't like that." Thinking about this, I'm pretty sure we will like that. You won't. Your saw won't. But it should make for good watchin'. ;)
nice... liked how you worked around issues
You did a great job on that mill
As soon as I saw you put that piece of steel in the vise I new what was going to happen. I have had the same problem with my 6inch Kurt vise. Not only does lose support in the Z direction it also tends to flex in the Y axis also I am sure your mill itself was flexing. There is a lot of cutting force with a .05 depth of cut. I haven't noticed your bench under the mill. You can add some rigidity to it by adding some weight underneath it. Maybe building a wooden stand or box underneath it and filling it with sand or concrete then bolt the mill through that to absorb some of the vibration. Not an expensive project but maybe worthwile for both your machines. Just some thoughts to share with you.
Quinn, I just found your channel I guess due to the algorithm that makes suggestions from others I watch like the three Keiths and ABomb and have spent more time reading the comments this morning than it took to watch the video. Quite often the comments have been for you to get a bigger machine, don't do it!! Your videos are great for the folks who have limited space and budget and are having a lot of fun working with machines like yours so your excellent instructions for using the mill help a lot of folks. Adam Booth would have taken a lot less time in his shaper making the guides but I kind of think it might not fit into your work space.
There is an old saying in the trade no matter how big the machine is you sooner or later will have to exceed it's capacity.
Looking forward to your PM Research project.
Now to turn off the computer and make some more parts for my 2" scale Cole's Case tractor.
Dick B.
It looks awfuly sus when you point to the mug and nod. Makes me wonder if it's coffee or Irish Coffee😁🤣
Who isn't Steam engines are so Cool!
ALLLLL I could think of, as you were agonizing over the finish was .... QUINN! It's going at the bottom of the tender! I appreciate the attention to detail, but if all goes well, those bars won't be seen until 2110!! :-D
And I think one of your early videos hinted at your steam obsession with a model stationary engine.
More Steam! More 8-bit!! More everything!! :-D
But I’ll know. 😬
@@Blondihacks Yeah, I figured. I've been following the new Pennsy T1 that's being built but I guess I need to follow this project now, too. :-)
You rock girl!
I wish there were more women like you!👍😉
It's usually the material that is too short at one end, not the machine.
Surprised you weren't more stoked to have finished this project.
Enjoyed...good video/build
Great work as always. You're an inspiration.