Hey everyone! Here's are today's themes in the comments. Save yourself some typing and read first: 1) Yes, using a round piece of HSS speed steel in the fly cutter would have been a lot easier. However the square piece is what I had, and it was a good excuse to practice my filing, which I wanted to do anyway. 2) Yes, you could totally do this with the boring head in the lathe. If I'd thought of that, I'd probably have done it that way. 😀 Another good way to do it would be fixturing it to a faceplate and using a boring bar in the lathe. You need a good-sized lathe to have the mass to handle that setup, so that probably wouldn't have worked for me.
Another way could have been a end mill the diameter of the counter bore. That would have been closer to what we learned to do when I attended Pasadena City College.
Or....4 jaw chuck with small plates and junk and the 5/16" hole with a plug with a center hole. Then just a face cut as usual on a lathe. The plug could bear against another piece of junk within the casting, this way it wouldn't need a step fro thrust. Rubberbands and tape can be used to keep the whole thing from killing you. I love the soda can material.....006 quite often.
unrelated , but every time i see you dial in a part in a four jaw i cant help but wander, did she try two chuck key method and didn't like it, or never tried at all? Make me second guess my self:) im easily twice as fast with two keys:) love your channel!!!
Really enjoyed this one. I hope you never get bigger machine tools, the ingenuity you're forced to employ when working at the limits of your machines is inspiring and educational.
Another great video. I was trained as a mechanical draftsman wayyyy back in 1967/68 (long before CAD) and drew lots of spot faces but had no idea how they were made. So now I know, thank you
Well done Quin, It's a hobby, have fun trying, experimenting, and succeeding. Don't change a thing, at least not on our account! 50k subs is proof. We love your humour, your 'whoopsies' and humility. Thank you.
I've watched enough of this series that I bought the PM-1 kit today. I'm just a retired mechanic with a pretty good shop, learning to use my smithy 1340. An old dog can learn new tricks , especially watching you. Thanks
The next version should have a way to specify the substance contained, instead of just the measuring system. Also, shouldn't there be different checkboxes for imperial and US customary? The volume units are different between the two.
For your flycutter, since you're cutting soft cast iron you can use a drill blank (re-harden it if you need to) or use a piece of round carbide and grind a flat with a cutting edge on it. Kinda like a round lathe tool bit. I've done it and it works great and you don't need to square a hole.
Alternate solution. You could have set the mill head at 90 degrees to the Z and use a boring head in the X direction. Still might have been tight on travel.
Quinn, I have built several of these kits and I know the problems you encountered. On a Redwing hit and miss engine I built, I had the same problem with running out of room when facing the end of the casting. Even though I have a knee mill with a lot of travel, using a boring head still ran out of room. What I wound up doing was using a large strap clamp and fixtured it to the front of the table utilizing the T nut slot. This enabled to gain me enough room so I could use the boring head. Would that have worked on your mill, as I noticed you do have a Tnut slot.
Had to double check I wasn't watching clickspring when you got out the tiny files for the "character building". Cool stuff, thanks for letting us enjoy this kit with you!
Nice idea on making that spot facing tool. My first thought was using a traditional fly cutter, but if you don't have one small enough that tool took a lot less time to make than a traditional fly cutter. I appreciate your narration explaining what your thought process was in making the decisions that you made. I look forward to watching the next video in the series.
Machining skills, tips, swarf, oil, educational content and humour, what's not to love... (OK, the machine tool envy is a bit ugly but y'know, one day I'll have a machine shop with all the toys)
Another approach to getting perfect concentricity here (not that you really _need_ better concentricity than you got) would have been to just turn the collet boss on the lathe, then mount it in the mill collet, clamp lathe tooling to the table, and turn it the rest of the way on the mill using your XYZ feeds to move the lathe bit relative to the spindle.
I try to enjoy the remnants of previous cuts, going away as the stock is cut down for the new piece. That is going to be a very fine engine when you are done, thanks!
hi i'm Ben tks for the content in your channel it s one of the best DIY channels on youtube , i heard in one of your videos i can not remember witch one you said the hardest thing in engineering is for making something you have to make a tool to make for another tool for another until you forgot what are you making in the first place can you make a video about it and tell us more pls , tks
I really like your work. You show all your thought process and now not only do you have to work out your setups now you have to think what would Joe Pie do or we will have another video on how it should have been done.
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia, I have been watching you for a while now I like how you explain what you are attempting to machine, and if you do it wrong or it goes bad your not afraid to admit it or explain what you should have done. Great channel and I have subscribed kind regards John
Thinky bits. Love it! And I believe that you could make the cut off section hit the bench whenever you wantOh look, a unicorn... That's a spiffy fly cutter. Very cool. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Another way to make that square hole is to mount the part on the mill table and use the z feed and a tool ground for slotting to cut it out. It could be done on a lathe faceplate using the carriage movement as a shaper as well, but you would need some way of indexing the spindle. If it’s not an operation you plan to do more than a couple of times, filing might be the most efficient way, though.
i enjoy watching Your approch to problem solving considering machines, tooling and budget... Like Joe Pie says " ask 10 machinests to do the job and you'll see 8 different approaches, none of them wrong. "... Best Wishes Quinn...
if you had drilled the hole at a slight angle you can give you self a small adjustment of diameter by adjust cutter in and out. not much butt enough for perfection
You have a D-bit tool grinder, (Dekel). use a single point cutter ground & positioned at the right cutting angle. I used a Dekel grinder & pantograph in '64-69 & made 1000's of patterns & models.
I feel your pain with the file. My apprenticeship... First task... Using oversize bar stock, Make a 1 inch cube so its to dimension, square on all sides, and flat on all sides...... Using hand files. The exercise took a couple of weeks, I think two attempts. I was filing in my sleep for months afterwards. The trauma!
The Brits (Europeans?) have an interesting way of filing rounds, which is opposite from ours, they rock the file so the contact point moves towards them instead of away, looks easier to control. I’ll have to try that one day.
I have learned so much from your videos Quinn. I appreciate how you take the time to explain things . By that I started making my own tool holders today for my QCTP.
Your chip breaking tool isn't breaking the chip because that relief is 90 degrees off. It's acting more like a crappy shear tool instead of a chip breaker. You may want to add like a step about .020-.035 from the cut edge to roll the chip more to break it, if that makes sense.
What seems to work best for breaking chips on aluminium for me is tons of RPM and feed. I tend to use inserts but I will run around 350m/min or 575fpm and feed 0.15mm/6 thou per rev. This usually breaks chips quite reliably with cuts between 0.1-0.3mm radially using DCMT070204 inserts which can be find quite cheap on ebay and such. I think our lathes are fairly similar in size and construction(I have a BL250G). Start the feed, stand back and watch the spray of chips! :)
Y’know, it doesn’t have to be that close. Except that maybe it does, since predicting the synergy of the cumulative small errors on the final assembly of a complex machine is difficult. In any event, we get to learn a lot more about general machining.
That was pretty nice BH. That fly cutter in the lathe, with the part sideways on the cross slide, then feed it in like you did on the mill would have worked too. However I liked the vertical position on the mill because you can actually see what going on during the facing, and it looked cool on the camera to for us viewers too. I love your humor in the video too, and yes we know you could have dropped that part on the bench every time. Next time get it to stand up on the end when it drops. LOL Thanks for sharing I really enjoyed the show. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Nowhere near precision, but I flattened a rough Arkansas stone I had on some sandpaper using progressive sheets of paper on a flat surface. Close enough for my purposes, but removes lots of material quickly as a roughing - in for precision work.
Another fantastic video once again! I’d never thought I’d spend far too much time watching someone else some machining but here we are! I might have to stop watching though or I might “accidentally” bring home a lathe and mill one day!
You could bolt the arbor to the cuter head with an eccentricly placed bolt hole. Arbor and tool are concentric (starting out) but the bolt hole connecting them is off axis. If it is only ~5 thou of axis you could get 10 thou of adjustment by rotating the arbor relative to the tool. Btw, I'm a big fan😊
This is not so bad idea to use oil or coolant when machining cast iron, because of saving health. Cats ^_^ iron are full of graphite. When machining, it fly up to air, and It's not good for health to breath it in. Coolant bind graphite dust together, this add the safety to process.
Dear Quinn , How long did it take to make that square hole??? ( be honest 2 pod casts 4 pod casts its ok were all friends here ) .. As far as chip breaking goes at the end of the day I empty 4 or 5 55 gal drums full of long, long , long , strings of Aluminum chips and there is always arguments (discussions) over proper cutting tool grinding ??? ... Great Video and thank you for taking the time to make it Pete m
For a small amount of adjustment without regrinding the tool would be to drill the hole in the hub at a slight angle so you can pull the tool in and out to adjust the cutting diameter. PS Love the content! You have me more seriously considering buying myself a mill and lathe now.
It's surprisingly easy to make a nice square broach on a lathe. It's quite a bit harder to make one that does a good job in cast iron, though. (You can offset the tailstock and then cut a thread whose tooth profile is a cutting edge. It's a very fast way to make a wood broach, and the helical cutting edge means a very smooth cut. It's also a lower force solution than a mortising drill.)
@@jackgeedubs1855 The ones I've made are intended purely for through broaching, so if I wanted an 8mm square, I'd drill a 7.8mm hole, and cut a broach from 8mm square stock that has a 7.8mm cylindrical start on one end, then has a positive rake tapered thread transitioning from that out to the 8mm finish width.
Hi Blondie, Don't be afraid of carbide insert tools for hobby lathe. I have a smaller lathe and have no issue using them. Especially on aluminum and hardened steel. Propper insert does not know the origin or rigidity of machine. It jus does its job. And also - for delicate work on stsinless I use Alu insert. It does not last long, but cuts away better tha SS rver will, with low spring effect on long overhang. For aligning thing discs in lathe chuck - try a bump tool. A simple project: drill M6 hole in old brazed carbide shank and bolt on the ball bearing. Try it, you will be suprissed 😉
@@Blondihacks Hey Blondie, I thought the same, an for begining it was for sure so. With cheap imports this have chsnged. Couple of bucs for a box of inserts. Especially this was true for what I expetianced for aluminium inserts. In combination with alcohol. BTW - that nasy blue stain over your logo made me feel bad for talking you into trying alcohol. I do not use blue ink - so zero mess for me.
On April 1st, I'm hoping Quinn to have a completely normal video up until she has to cut a part off the lathe, and her "aaaaaaand" before saying "yahtzee" just takes up the next hour.
Once again you have proven your Great machining skills . I was hoping to fins a dove tail cutter with the spot-face diameter , but fat chance. Thinking of using the boring head to cut, I am old & too lazy for your method. “ Lone the video “ ! . BB
Love the videos, always fun to watch and entertaining yet helpful. Clickspring featured making a square broche a couple years ago on his mini lathe might be an awesome project for here 😁
I like the idea of putting a cutter in a puck haha. I wonder about this feature on a lathe, could you put a boring head or fly cutter in the spindle, mount the part on the compound if it's not too high
Excellent solution! Nice finish on that spot face too! Whenever I hear "spot facing" I think Wohlhaupter. But those are seriously expensive and probably too long for what you were needing here. Have you ever seen/used one? Tom Lipton probably has a few of them! Maybe he could send you one. : ) They are fun to use.
Hey Quinn! I did this operation on my kit today using the same setup you did with an angle plate. Like you, I found what seemed to be an out of square error in my angle plate. After a bit of measuring it transpired that the error wasn't the plate, but was because my mill head was slightly tilted. I corrected this and the angle plate ran true. I wonder if this might have been your problem as well. Cheers from sunny Australia AB
Back when I was a 9-5er, working at the shop, the mill went down for some time. Burned out a hard to replace part. The 'machinist' on hand used the lathe as _exactly_ a horizontal mill for about two months, until the owner got around to replacing the part in the mill. The only issue is all cuts can only be made on two axes, depth and 'X,' but it worked just fine. I'm convinced that the 'missing link' between a lathe and a mill is a mickey-moused lathe in a horizontal milling configuration.
@@Corbald I don't know if anyone still makes them anymore, but you used to be able to buy a milling attachment for lathes that replaced the compound slide and gave you an extra axis.
Also (I can't recall "home shop machinist"?) I saw plans for an "auto advance" boring head tool. = ie .001" per revolution of head = increase or decrease diameter if you want to use the mill.
Quinn, do you have a dial test indicator? It's a lot quicker and more precise (than turning a plug) to chuck one up in a collet or clamp to the spindle OD and indicate the inside of the bore. If you don't have one I might have a spare lying around... Edit - duh, you're using one in the video. Oops. The one I use for this is a lot smaller and fits even when the Z axis is pretty tight.
Next time you make a flycutter with a vertical tool, don't drill a hole and file. As you found out, adjusting the diameter of the cut is hit and miss. Mostly miss. Instead mill a slot in the side of the tool. This will let you adjust the diameter of the cut quickly and easily.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey everyone! Here's are today's themes in the comments. Save yourself some typing and read first:
1) Yes, using a round piece of HSS speed steel in the fly cutter would have been a lot easier. However the square piece is what I had, and it was a good excuse to practice my filing, which I wanted to do anyway.
2) Yes, you could totally do this with the boring head in the lathe. If I'd thought of that, I'd probably have done it that way. 😀 Another good way to do it would be fixturing it to a faceplate and using a boring bar in the lathe. You need a good-sized lathe to have the mass to handle that setup, so that probably wouldn't have worked for me.
Another way could have been a end mill the diameter of the counter bore. That would have been closer to what we learned to do when I attended Pasadena City College.
Or....4 jaw chuck with small plates and junk and the 5/16" hole with a plug with a center hole. Then just a face cut as usual on a lathe. The plug could bear against another piece of junk within the casting, this way it wouldn't need a step fro thrust. Rubberbands and tape can be used to keep the whole thing from killing you. I love the soda can material.....006 quite often.
unrelated , but every time i see you dial in a part in a four jaw i cant help but wander, did she try two chuck key method and didn't like it, or never tried at all? Make me second guess my self:) im easily twice as fast with two keys:) love your channel!!!
@@wi11y1960
She mentioned in the video that she didn't have one that size.
Sometimes I do something a certain way, because I just feel like doing that way, because it's a hobby and it's enjoyable. Weird right???? 😂
Really enjoyed this one. I hope you never get bigger machine tools, the ingenuity you're forced to employ when working at the limits of your machines is inspiring and educational.
Another great video. I was trained as a mechanical draftsman wayyyy back in 1967/68 (long before CAD) and drew lots of spot faces but had no idea how they were made. So now I know, thank you
Well, this is probably not the right way to make them, but it worked in this case. ☺️
Well done Quin,
It's a hobby, have fun trying, experimenting, and succeeding.
Don't change a thing, at least not on our account!
50k subs is proof.
We love your humour, your 'whoopsies' and humility.
Thank you.
Aww thank you! I really appreciate that.
I've watched enough of this series that I bought the PM-1 kit today. I'm just a retired mechanic with a pretty good shop, learning to use my smithy 1340. An old dog can learn new tricks , especially watching you. Thanks
basically the same as you but a smithy 1240 and a SB 9A. One of these days I will get one of those kits just for fun.
Chatter and I are well acquainted. I occasionally also shake hands with danger.
Is your name three finger Joe?
I know to expect the cutting oil bit with the mug, but it still makes me laugh every time.
Same here!!
The next version should have a way to specify the substance contained, instead of just the measuring system. Also, shouldn't there be different checkboxes for imperial and US customary? The volume units are different between the two.
The #1 machining channel for curious beginners!
For your flycutter, since you're cutting soft cast iron you can use a drill blank (re-harden it if you need to) or use a piece of round carbide and grind a flat with a cutting edge on it. Kinda like a round lathe tool bit. I've done it and it works great and you don't need to square a hole.
Really looking forward to seeing this puppy wheezing and chugging.
I hope not wheezing. Wheezing is a sign of a loose packing gland.
Alternate solution. You could have set the mill head at 90 degrees to the Z and use a boring head in the X direction. Still might have been tight on travel.
That’s an interesting idea!
Quinn, I have built several of these kits and I know the problems you encountered. On a Redwing hit and miss engine I built, I had the same problem with running out of room when facing the end of the casting. Even though I have a knee mill with a lot of travel, using a boring head still ran out of room. What I wound up doing was using a large strap clamp and fixtured it to the front of the table utilizing the T nut slot. This enabled to gain me enough room so I could use the boring head. Would that have worked on your mill, as I noticed you do have a Tnut slot.
Sadly no, Y axis travel on this machine would not allow that. Spindle doesn’t even reach the edges in the y axis.
@@Blondihacks Gotcha. Enjoy your videos little lady, I think I have watched every one.
Yessss those Hand Tool Rescue wrenches are the best! So happy to see people using them.
You're not an official TH-cam maker if you don't have a Hand Tool Rescue wrench, a Jimmy Diresta icepick, and a Giaco Maker Knife ;)
14:22 I missed it the first time through.
@John Verne I have one arriving Thursday. I needed it so I had the whole family?
Had to double check I wasn't watching clickspring when you got out the tiny files for the "character building". Cool stuff, thanks for letting us enjoy this kit with you!
All I can say is WOW. Way to chase that perfection. This is going to be so cool to see the end product...thanks for sharing
great idea , I hate to type this but you should have drilled the holes for the cylinder mount while it was setup vertically
I intentionally am not doing that until the cylinder is machined to guarantee alignment.
@@Blondihacks Okay
You and TOT are the monarchs of machinist TH-cam, I can't get through the week without my dose of Blondihacks
Don't forget Joe Pie! All three are a staple for my happiness.
Nice idea on making that spot facing tool. My first thought was using a traditional fly cutter, but if you don't have one small enough that tool took a lot less time to make than a traditional fly cutter.
I appreciate your narration explaining what your thought process was in making the decisions that you made.
I look forward to watching the next video in the series.
Machining skills, tips, swarf, oil, educational content and humour, what's not to love...
(OK, the machine tool envy is a bit ugly but y'know, one day I'll have a machine shop with all the toys)
Another approach to getting perfect concentricity here (not that you really _need_ better concentricity than you got) would have been to just turn the collet boss on the lathe, then mount it in the mill collet, clamp lathe tooling to the table, and turn it the rest of the way on the mill using your XYZ feeds to move the lathe bit relative to the spindle.
I try to enjoy the remnants of previous cuts, going away as the stock is cut down for the new piece. That is going to be a very fine engine when you are done, thanks!
I've Ben a machinest for 45years I Injoy watching a young women doing a vary good job and injoyed the video👍👍👍⛓⛓⛓👊👊👊⚙⚙⚙
hi i'm Ben tks for the content in your channel it s one of the best DIY channels on youtube , i heard in one of your videos i can not remember witch one you said the hardest thing in engineering is for making something you have to make a tool to make for another tool for another until you forgot what are you making in the first place can you make a video about it and tell us more pls , tks
I really like your work. You show all your thought process and now not only do you have to work out your setups now you have to think what would Joe Pie do or we will have another video on how it should have been done.
Just discovered your channel. Appreciate your lucid commentary, your wit, and great video. We’ll be spending some time together!
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia, I have been watching you for a while now I like how you explain what you are attempting to machine, and if you do it wrong or it goes bad your not afraid to admit it or explain what you should have done. Great channel and I have subscribed kind regards John
Thinky bits. Love it!
And I believe that you could make the cut off section hit the bench whenever you wantOh look, a unicorn...
That's a spiffy fly cutter. Very cool.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
The mathie math part makes my head heart.
@@timinwsac head heart, now that makes for quite the mental picture. Ha Ha
Another way to make that square hole is to mount the part on the mill table and use the z feed and a tool ground for slotting to cut it out. It could be done on a lathe faceplate using the carriage movement as a shaper as well, but you would need some way of indexing the spindle. If it’s not an operation you plan to do more than a couple of times, filing might be the most efficient way, though.
Yes, that would have been a cool way to do this!
Really enjoying seeing this coming along and the attention to detail you’re putting in Quinn. 👍
10/10 for making the tools, very good explanation of the process.
i enjoy watching Your approch to problem solving considering machines, tooling and budget... Like Joe Pie says " ask 10 machinests to do the job and you'll see 8 different approaches, none of them wrong. "... Best Wishes Quinn...
If you make your flycutter backwards it can use right hand tooling. :)
Very impressed with your shop, tools and your knowledge of how to use them.
heres where a facing/boring head comes handy ! like a narex one !
if you had drilled the hole at a slight angle you can give you self a small adjustment of diameter by adjust cutter in and out. not much butt enough for perfection
You have a D-bit tool grinder, (Dekel). use a single point cutter ground & positioned at the right cutting angle. I used a Dekel grinder & pantograph in '64-69 & made 1000's of patterns & models.
Great job on filing the square hole!
“A tiny fly cutter”. A midge cutter then? Perhaps a no-see-um cutter?
I would think a mosquito cutter would be pretty useful in some parts...
Fruit fly cutter
A gnat cutter?
Atom cutter
Great job on the machning and the fly cutter. Thanks for the video.
I’ve pondered building a similar fly cutter, but I would absolutely use round tooling. Why? I’ve got plenty of character already. 😬
I feel your pain with the file. My apprenticeship... First task... Using oversize bar stock, Make a 1 inch cube so its to dimension, square on all sides, and flat on all sides...... Using hand files. The exercise took a couple of weeks, I think two attempts. I was filing in my sleep for months afterwards. The trauma!
Apparently an old apprentice exercise was to make a perfect one inch sphere from a cube with just hand files. Lots of character building.
The Brits (Europeans?) have an interesting way of filing rounds, which is opposite from ours, they rock the file so the contact point moves towards them instead of away, looks easier to control. I’ll have to try that one day.
Love your style and ingenuity. Knew you could do this steam project with grace. Keep it up.
I think you and Lance should have a sit down..... i just bought a set of precision ground stones from him because of you
Doesn’t matter if you have multiple setups, end product is the answer!
Glad to see you’ve still got your spirit! Way to go #Blondihacks!
I have learned so much from your videos Quinn. I appreciate how you take the time to explain things . By that I started making my own tool holders today for my QCTP.
Your chip breaking tool isn't breaking the chip because that relief is 90 degrees off. It's acting more like a crappy shear tool instead of a chip breaker. You may want to add like a step about .020-.035 from the cut edge to roll the chip more to break it, if that makes sense.
Is that Clickspring doing some precision handfiling?
Nope, that's Quinn!
Could have fooled me! Same beautiful finish too!
What seems to work best for breaking chips on aluminium for me is tons of RPM and feed. I tend to use inserts but I will run around 350m/min or 575fpm and feed 0.15mm/6 thou per rev.
This usually breaks chips quite reliably with cuts between 0.1-0.3mm radially using DCMT070204 inserts which can be find quite cheap on ebay and such.
I think our lathes are fairly similar in size and construction(I have a BL250G).
Start the feed, stand back and watch the spray of chips! :)
Yah, that’s what I do as well, and it helps, but my lathe can only do so much. What you saw there was max RPM and max feed on this machine.
Y’know, it doesn’t have to be that close. Except that maybe it does, since predicting the synergy of the cumulative small errors on the final assembly of a complex machine is difficult.
In any event, we get to learn a lot more about general machining.
I must be learning... Fly cutter was the first thing I thought of!
This whole fly-cutter point math issue becomes SOOO much easier if you were to just use a round HSS bit!
Yah, that would have been easier, but this little square bit is what I had.
@@Blondihacks seems like you need to get a stash of HSS then :)
Love the problem solving commentary ... thanks for spilling your brain ... very clever solutions.
That was pretty nice BH. That fly cutter in the lathe, with the part sideways on the cross slide, then feed it in like you did on the mill would have worked too. However I liked the vertical position on the mill because you can actually see what going on during the facing, and it looked cool on the camera to for us viewers too. I love your humor in the video too, and yes we know you could have dropped that part on the bench every time. Next time get it to stand up on the end when it drops. LOL Thanks for sharing I really enjoyed the show. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Nowhere near precision, but I flattened a rough Arkansas stone I had on some sandpaper using progressive sheets of paper on a flat surface. Close enough for my purposes, but removes lots of material quickly as a roughing - in for precision work.
really like the flycutter, I really could do with one for the mini mill..
Thanks blondi hacks. I enjoyed this new technique . New to me.
That square hole was fantastic!
remember always use the same scale to stir both your coffee and your cutting oil for enhanced precision!
did a similar spot face and ran into the same issues. i used the adj boring head in the lathe with the part fixtured to the cross slide
I was wondering about that myself. It saves making the special tool.
Another fantastic video once again! I’d never thought I’d spend far too much time watching someone else some machining but here we are! I might have to stop watching though or I might “accidentally” bring home a lathe and mill one day!
You could bolt the arbor to the cuter head with an eccentricly placed bolt hole. Arbor and tool are concentric (starting out) but the bolt hole connecting them is off axis. If it is only ~5 thou of axis you could get 10 thou of adjustment by rotating the arbor relative to the tool. Btw, I'm a big fan😊
This is not so bad idea to use oil or coolant when machining cast iron, because of saving health.
Cats ^_^ iron are full of graphite. When machining, it fly up to air, and It's not good for health to breath it in.
Coolant bind graphite dust together, this add the safety to process.
Good tip!
Beautiful job Quinn
Dear Quinn , How long did it take to make that square hole??? ( be honest 2 pod casts 4 pod casts its ok were all friends here ) .. As far as chip breaking goes at the end of the day I empty 4 or 5 55 gal drums full of long, long , long , strings of Aluminum chips and there is always arguments (discussions) over proper cutting tool grinding ??? ... Great Video and thank you for taking the time to make it Pete m
Love the way you create your videos. You are very easy to listen to and you explain everything quite well. Thank you for sharing Quinn. Great job.
Quinn, you are a peach! Love your sense of humor.
For a small amount of adjustment without regrinding the tool would be to drill the hole in the hub at a slight angle so you can pull the tool in and out to adjust the cutting diameter.
PS Love the content! You have me more seriously considering buying myself a mill and lathe now.
Great idea!
Nice chuckle from your Dremel trick!
Click spiring has an amazing video about hand made square broach. He made it on lathe :)
Yes! That was amazing
@@Blondihacks I must say, I found your channel like a week ago and I love it :) keep up being amazing :D
It's surprisingly easy to make a nice square broach on a lathe. It's quite a bit harder to make one that does a good job in cast iron, though. (You can offset the tailstock and then cut a thread whose tooth profile is a cutting edge. It's a very fast way to make a wood broach, and the helical cutting edge means a very smooth cut. It's also a lower force solution than a mortising drill.)
@@smellsofbikes how would you determine the depth of cut though?
@@jackgeedubs1855 The ones I've made are intended purely for through broaching, so if I wanted an 8mm square, I'd drill a 7.8mm hole, and cut a broach from 8mm square stock that has a 7.8mm cylindrical start on one end, then has a positive rake tapered thread transitioning from that out to the 8mm finish width.
Why not put the cutter in the lathe and affix the part to the slide? Then you could just run the slide into the cutter.
That would work too!
Dam good job . Very well explained . When drinking cutting oil Mae sure it has stainless steel swarf in it so much better for inner health !
Hi Blondie,
Don't be afraid of carbide insert tools for hobby lathe.
I have a smaller lathe and have no issue using them. Especially on aluminum and hardened steel.
Propper insert does not know the origin or rigidity of machine. It jus does its job.
And also - for delicate work on stsinless I use Alu insert. It does not last long, but cuts away better tha SS rver will, with low spring effect on long overhang.
For aligning thing discs in lathe chuck - try a bump tool.
A simple project: drill M6 hole in old brazed carbide shank and bolt on the ball bearing. Try it, you will be suprissed 😉
I do use them, and have shown them on my channel. I just think HSS is better for hobbyists in most cases.
And I have a bump tool, and have shown that as well
@@Blondihacks
Hey Blondie,
I thought the same, an for begining it was for sure so.
With cheap imports this have chsnged. Couple of bucs for a box of inserts. Especially this was true for what I expetianced for aluminium inserts. In combination with alcohol. BTW - that nasy blue stain over your logo made me feel bad for talking you into trying alcohol. I do not use blue ink - so zero mess for me.
@@Blondihacks
Obviously I have to go through all the videos on my favourite hobby machining channel 👍👍👍
Could you have put the boring head in the lathe for this or is that madness?
On April 1st, I'm hoping Quinn to have a completely normal video up until she has to cut a part off the lathe, and her "aaaaaaand" before saying "yahtzee" just takes up the next hour.
Once again you have proven your Great machining skills . I was hoping to fins a dove tail cutter with the spot-face diameter , but fat chance. Thinking of using the boring head to cut, I am old & too lazy for your method. “ Lone the video “ ! . BB
Love the videos, always fun to watch and entertaining yet helpful.
Clickspring featured making a square broche a couple years ago on his mini lathe might be an awesome project for here 😁
I like the idea of putting a cutter in a puck haha.
I wonder about this feature on a lathe, could you put a boring head or fly cutter in the spindle, mount the part on the compound if it's not too high
Another amazing video. Keep em coming please. Makes my weekends better.
you are such an inspiration. You do amazing work.
Lots of great info in this video! Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks Quinn
just started learning i need to learn about changing gears on my g02 grizzly
I looooooove yak shaving!
This series is excellent!
Excellent solution! Nice finish on that spot face too! Whenever I hear "spot facing" I think Wohlhaupter. But those are seriously expensive and probably too long for what you were needing here. Have you ever seen/used one? Tom Lipton probably has a few of them! Maybe he could send you one. : ) They are fun to use.
I find watching a machinists absolutely fascinating. What do you suppose that says about me? Never mind, new subscriber. Great job.
Enjoying evry bit of your videos. Learning too. Thank you.
Hey Quinn! I did this operation on my kit today using the same setup you did with an angle plate.
Like you, I found what seemed to be an out of square error in my angle plate.
After a bit of measuring it transpired that the error wasn't the plate, but was because my mill head was slightly tilted. I corrected this and the angle plate ran true. I wonder if this might have been your problem as well.
Cheers from sunny Australia
AB
I wouldn’t be at all surprised if the error is in my mill, but shimming the plate is a lot easier than fixing the mill. 😁
@@Blondihacks how right you are.
Great video as always
Love the humour you bring to your videos!
1:59 A lathe suddenly looks suspiciously like a horizontal milling machine to me...
Back when I was a 9-5er, working at the shop, the mill went down for some time. Burned out a hard to replace part. The 'machinist' on hand used the lathe as _exactly_ a horizontal mill for about two months, until the owner got around to replacing the part in the mill. The only issue is all cuts can only be made on two axes, depth and 'X,' but it worked just fine. I'm convinced that the 'missing link' between a lathe and a mill is a mickey-moused lathe in a horizontal milling configuration.
@@Corbald I don't know if anyone still makes them anymore, but you used to be able to buy a milling attachment for lathes that replaced the compound slide and gave you an extra axis.
@@richardhunter607 Interesting! Might be the answer to my other question on here: "Lathe or Mill first?"
@@Corbald Old school horizontal mills were designed around existing lathe headstocks... there you go.
@@ratdude747 Very interesting! I suspected it might have been the case, but failed to do any research.
Hi Quinn, you could try adding some glycerin to your blue schmoo to stop it running off the part.
I think I’m giving up on the blue schmoo, honestly. It’s been creating flash rust, despite trying to clean it up as best I can.
Also (I can't recall "home shop machinist"?) I saw plans for an "auto advance" boring head tool. = ie .001" per revolution of head = increase or decrease diameter if you want to use the mill.
Quinn, do you have a dial test indicator? It's a lot quicker and more precise (than turning a plug) to chuck one up in a collet or clamp to the spindle OD and indicate the inside of the bore. If you don't have one I might have a spare lying around... Edit - duh, you're using one in the video. Oops. The one I use for this is a lot smaller and fits even when the Z axis is pretty tight.
I appreciate the offer! Yah space was super tight here so the plug seemed the way to go
Next time you make a flycutter with a vertical tool, don't drill a hole and file. As you found out, adjusting the diameter of the cut is hit and miss. Mostly miss.
Instead mill a slot in the side of the tool. This will let you adjust the diameter of the cut quickly and easily.
thinky bits and mathy math are why i drive a truck
you go, quinn
you can make broaches, not sure if it's worth the time for a one off though
Mmmm. Fun to watch this step. It's odd, though, because I enjoyed the mill setup part the most. [perplexed] Many thanks.
If I remember right, Clickspring had a video a while back on making a square broach. If you're of a mind to, I wouldn't mind seeing your take on that.
"After about an hour of character building..." :-) :-) :-)