Looking good! I was researching high builds a few weeks ago because my local supplier stopped carrying the brand I’ve been using. I found overcoat makes a high build that has a built in guide coat. Changes colors as you sand. Sounds like a great idea so I may try that on my next project.
Built in pink guide coat from Evercoat is garbage my friend Pete TH-cam channel Diyauto school use that junk in his vw ending up reshooting it with something else beware 😮
Yeah polyester primer isn't like a normal high build primer,also it doesn't lay down as smooth. I'll give you my take on it. You should sand that down as soon as you can the poly primer I used if you don't sand it the next day it's like concrete to sand. I made that mistake the first time I used it. It's good for locking down any fiberglass areas you have trouble with. I just use Debear high solids primer. I also primer ,block and reprime a final time before paint.
That's what was recommended to me when I did a corvette that had spider issues. It worked fantastic on it but it also took me 4 days to sand it, it was a batch to sand.
I am so looking forward to my car being back in black. I had it done back in 1999 and drove it for almost 5 years then it got parked for almost 20 years so it is time to get it back on the road
nice. seems like a lot of the high build primers turn out rough textured like that. I used a PPG product which was a high build epoxy primer and it came out rough as well.
Looks great! It's difficult to get the best atomization and get enough material on for it to flow out with the HiBuild. I would use bigger orifice to get more material to flow out. Enjoy watching your video. thank you for your hard work.
You might get arm muscle mass increase from your sanding out of that poly. It does well blocking so far as leveling things out...at least it's been my experience.. great video as usual.
I was just going to ask you if you had thought about sprayable polyester on your last bodywork video... Advantage: no shrink I'm sure you'll let us know how it blocks out on the next party! When I first started painting in shops, we were using 2.0 tips for clear. Now I would feel like I was using a garden hose.
I am a fan of polyester primer, I have sanded the entire car with 220 and 320 and a felt if cut ok. Definitely it as easy as urethane but still reasonable and worth the effort
Try to get in the habit of lifting off the trigger at the end of the fender as you come to the end of the fender and then go back the other way you’re giving that section of the fender, two coats compare to the other one
It sanded out ok. Would have been easier if the primer laid flat. Most of the sanding was leveling off the texture. Was I was told the polyester primer doesn’t flow so great and some texture is normal.
Looks great. I experienced some issues with Etching primer not adhering to bare metal even with a 80/120 scuff and paint prep wipes. Going to have to completely strip the hood. Do you not recommend etching dtm primer?
When I strip a car media blast or sanding I clean the metal with metal prep/acid then use epoxy primer and normally anytime I burn thru to bare reapply epoxy. Supposedly this primer is ok for dtm not sure if I trust it
I switched because the stuff I liked and wanted to use I could not get it shipped i tried a couple different vendors and waited a week each time to learn go fish and lost 3 weeks, Part of the reason I started working on my car again.
Mostly because I can. Not in a rush like a body shop might be. That is in my opinion why they give you a sanding window that quick as a sales advantage or advertising. My concern is I really feel it is still curing and shrinking well past the 2 hour mark. I would prefer it to be done to help prevent sanding marks from showing back up serval months later. It’s a sore subject for me because I have fought that issue so bad when I first started painting cars. I found the longer I let body filler, primer and paint sit before cutting with sand paper it solved my problems. Now maybe new technology in paints it’s resolved but I would rather not find out.
Thank you for the reply and GREAT information. I need to paint the hood and roof of my truck as the CC has worn away. No delamination that I can see. No build primer needed in my situation. Thanks!
@@VinylVillageGaragewhat’s the worst that could happen by waiting? Maybe more time spent sanding, but I’m sure you don’t want to do it over- as the saying goes about finding time to do something a second time when you didn’t do it right the first time. Great information to try to keep in my head when I get to the bodywork stage- or at the very minimum, I’ll know whose videos I can refer back to! Thanks, Jon.
@@VinylVillageGarage Sorry, only '69 Trans Am spoilers are allowed on '69 Firebirds. Your protest is noted, and we will take it under advisement as we plan a way forward after this travesty. Hopefully we can all get some closure and find a way to move on.
Amazing how much better it looks in one solid color!
It does!
Looking good! I was researching high builds a few weeks ago because my local supplier stopped carrying the brand I’ve been using. I found overcoat makes a high build that has a built in guide coat. Changes colors as you sand. Sounds like a great idea so I may try that on my next project.
I saw that, Mike at lake and lodge garage used it on his 67 bird. Looks like it sprayed and sanded well
Nice. I’ll have to give it a try.
Built in pink guide coat from Evercoat is garbage my friend Pete TH-cam channel Diyauto school use that junk in his vw ending up reshooting it with something else beware 😮
Yeah polyester primer isn't like a normal high build primer,also it doesn't lay down as smooth. I'll give you my take on it. You should sand that down as soon as you can the poly primer I used if you don't sand it the next day it's like concrete to sand. I made that mistake the first time I used it. It's good for locking down any fiberglass areas you have trouble with. I just use Debear high solids primer. I also primer ,block and reprime a final time before paint.
That's what was recommended to me when I did a corvette that had spider issues. It worked fantastic on it but it also took me 4 days to sand it, it was a batch to sand.
It definitely requires more effort to sand then urethane, I have the entire car blocked down to 320 and looks good.
Looking great Jon! Nice work as always!
Thanks again!
Looks amazing John!! You do good work!!👍🏽
Wow, thanks!
I’m liking that hardtop real good, like the convertible but nothing like a black 69
I am so looking forward to my car being back in black. I had it done back in 1999 and drove it for almost 5 years then it got parked for almost 20 years so it is time to get it back on the road
I've been spraying a Sherwin williams SU522 dtm primer you can spray it with a 1.3-1.5 tip I stack it 4 coats over epoxy primer and it builds nice
Thanks for the info
As always can't wait to see more ...nice job ...great content and thanks...🔧🔧👍
More to come!
nice. seems like a lot of the high build primers turn out rough textured like that. I used a PPG product which was a high build epoxy primer and it came out rough as well.
I have yet to get a high build to lay smooth it seems to always have a texture it was wishful thinking on my part
Looks great! It's difficult to get the best atomization and get enough material on for it to flow out with the HiBuild. I would use bigger orifice to get more material to flow out. Enjoy watching your video. thank you for your hard work.
I was hoping the 2.0 tip would do it. I will try 2.3 next time. Thanks
Hard work boss. Looking gd.
Thanks 👍
You might get arm muscle mass increase from your sanding out of that poly. It does well blocking so far as leveling things out...at least it's been my experience.. great video as usual.
It did take some effort to block
Out more then urethane primer, it cleaned up and sanded out great
That primer looks really heavy duty
And it sands very nice too
I was just going to ask you if you had thought about sprayable polyester on your last bodywork video...
Advantage: no shrink
I'm sure you'll let us know how it blocks out on the next party!
When I first started painting in shops, we were using 2.0 tips for clear. Now I would feel like I was using a garden hose.
I am a fan of polyester primer, I have sanded the entire car with 220 and 320 and a felt if cut ok. Definitely it as easy as urethane but still reasonable and worth the effort
Try to get in the habit of lifting off the trigger at the end of the fender as you come to the end of the fender and then go back the other way you’re giving that section of the fender, two coats compare to the other one
👍
Curious to see how that high build works out. It did look like it had a lot of texture to it. What do you think caused that? Best of luck!
It sanded out ok. Would have been easier if the primer laid flat. Most of the sanding was leveling off the texture. Was I was told the polyester primer doesn’t flow so great and some texture is normal.
if you thin it 10% it will flow a lot better
It does, i tried. Much better thanks
Looks great. I experienced some issues with Etching primer not adhering to bare metal even with a 80/120 scuff and paint prep wipes. Going to have to completely strip the hood. Do you not recommend etching dtm primer?
When I strip a car media blast or sanding I clean the metal with metal prep/acid then use epoxy primer and normally anytime I burn thru to bare reapply epoxy. Supposedly this primer is ok for dtm not sure if I trust it
👍👍👍👍
😎
Question. Will you prime over the fill primer. Or paint on top of it ?
I will seal with a reduced epoxy right before final paint.
It will be interesting to see how it block sands. Was there a reason you switched to this product?
I switched because the stuff I liked and wanted to use I could not get it shipped i tried a couple different vendors and waited a week each time to learn go fish and lost 3 weeks,
Part of the reason I started working on my car again.
💪😎
Thanks
What happened with the CLAUSEN RUST DEFENDER???
Could Not get it delivered tried three times had to go a different route. ☹️
Why did you move away from the Clausen primer and switch to the Evercoat?
Couldn’t get the clausen primer delivered tried for 3 weeks and gave up. Order kept
Getting canceled.
Hi Jon, The TDS for that HBP says you can sand in 2 hours @ 72 degrees. Why are you waiting a week?
Mostly because I can. Not in a rush like a body shop might be. That is in my opinion why they give you a sanding window that quick as a sales advantage or advertising. My concern is I really feel it is still curing and shrinking well past the 2 hour mark. I would prefer it to be done to help prevent sanding marks from showing back up serval months later. It’s a sore subject for me because I have fought that issue so bad when I first started painting cars. I found the longer I let body filler, primer and paint sit before cutting with sand paper it solved my problems. Now maybe new technology in paints it’s resolved but I would rather not find out.
Thank you for the reply and GREAT information. I need to paint the hood and roof of my truck as the CC has worn away. No delamination that I can see. No build primer needed in my situation. Thanks!
@@VinylVillageGaragewhat’s the worst that could happen by waiting? Maybe more time spent sanding, but I’m sure you don’t want to do it over- as the saying goes about finding time to do something a second time when you didn’t do it right the first time. Great information to try to keep in my head when I get to the bodywork stage- or at the very minimum, I’ll know whose videos I can refer back to! Thanks, Jon.
What planet are you from, Super-human isn’t enough to describe you!
I was born in Kansas, might have to ask my parents if they found me in a field 🤣
I'm over here being passive aggressive and biting my tongue regarding the heinous atrocity committed on Blackbird.
It’s all sealed up with epoxy and 2 coats of high build ready for blocking
@@VinylVillageGarage I was referring to the CAMARO atrocity on the decklid. Oh, the huge manatee.
@FINfinFINfinFINfin that isn’t a Camaro spoiler it’s much shorter, and laid flat. It’s a custom spoiler similar to the one Dave kindig sells.
@@VinylVillageGarage Sorry, only '69 Trans Am spoilers are allowed on '69 Firebirds. Your protest is noted, and we will take it under advisement as we plan a way forward after this travesty. Hopefully we can all get some closure and find a way to move on.
@FINfinFINfinFINfin lol, very well I appreciate you taking it into consideration. I will keep that in mind going forward.