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Ford Focus Maintenance Intervals | My Recommendations - 2012-2018
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ย. 2023
- Coolant service, water pump change, purge valve:
• Ford Focus - Water Pum...
Engine mount bushing replacement:
• Ford Focus Engine Moun...
Transmission service:
• Ford Focus & Fiesta Tr...
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Before replacing the purge valve, if it's working fine (no engine light) check the date in it to see if it's already been replaced.
My water pump failed catastrophically and unexpectedly at 140k. Engine lost all coolant within seconds and overheated before I could process the situation. Luckily I was able to shut it off before any damage was done. Never seen a water pump go out like that (no leaks prior to failure). From now on I will change it as preventative maintenance.
Absolutely love this channel! Just got a 2012 Ford focus 💪 free! So I've been trying to fix it up.
Free? Wow good score! Glad to help!
The clutch & forks can go bad over time as well. The rear main seal behind the flywheel will leak, and engine oil will eventually seap into the transmission housing where the clutch is. Since this vehicle is a dry clutch, it will cause the transmission to overheat and cause slipping of the clutch, and the forks could get stuck as well. Also, the original seals on the input shaft in the transmission will eventually leak over time as well. Those will need to get replaced with the new orange/brownish seals.
Thanks for sharing that information! The transmission clutch and forks certainly are normal wear items lol. While I haven't seen a rear main seal leak on these yet, the input shaft seals certainly are leak prone if they are the old black seals. Appreciate it!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles I really enjoy your videos.
Please which engine is this one ?
Hello, I have a question, for some time now my Ford Focus, when it is already hot (and I have turned it on and off several times during the day), has started to make a noise in the cabin like an exhaust noise (like a hard honking noise, as if it had a motorcycle stuck to the side of the car) but it can only be heard at idle and on the driver's side but it is as if it were coming from the passenger side, and I have noticed that it goes away if I let the car rest for a long time or if I accelerate it at high speeds revolutions... the cylinder compression test has already been done and all 4 OK. If I put the car in drive or reverse and release the brake, it goes away, but if I stop completely and it returns to minimum idle, the noise returns, neither reports Misfire or check engine
Can you record it and post it in my discord or Facebook group?
If I can't get orange motorcraft coolant, can I top off with another orange? I've seen ford uses dexcool are there orange north American coolants that are not dexcool or should not use? I know I'm not supposed to mix colors or "technology" but the new yellow stuff can be mixed with orange oat? So many questions not enough answers... sorry if anything is confusing and for the long post.
The orange coolant is obsolete. Use the new yellow coolant - Motorcraft VC13G. It's intermixable
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles my local dealership is 3+ days Walmart and Amazon same for shipping. Can I mix a different brands yellow (Napa, zerex, peak, or prestone) I'm below min line why it's a concern now.
@@Focus1094STif you’re just refilling it then you can just use distilled water, and whenever you can get the yellow coolant you can just do a flush and replace all the coolant with the new yellow
i have tested my purge valve like you showed on one of your videos and it did not give any suction on the back side like you showed. my ford focus has 160k miles, should i still change it ?
Not a bad idea to replace it if it's original. Otherwise save your money. There's a date printed on the purge valve (oems have a date)
If the car overheated several times due to the fan control module and after replacing it the overheating was solved, but after a short period I found the coolant reservoir cracked and some signs of leakage in the big hose going to the reservoir from both sides, what do you think is the cause of that? Is it overpressure because of the cap or maybe it overheated again which caused that overpressure? Is the thermostat reliable in this car in your experience?
Also do you recommend anything to do as preventative maintenance on the DPS6 other than oil changes? Would it be a good idea to spray WD40 in the actuators or maybe drop it and lubricate the forks? Or is it better to just wait and see if I have a problem and then replace these parts with new ones
Replace the degas bottle and anything you see leaking. It's probably from the overheating. The thermostats have been reliable.
Spraying lube on the forks can lead to the boots rotting on them and causing dust intrusion to the forks. For routine maintenance, If you're willing to pull the transmission out then great. Every 20k to 30k miles , when it starts shuddering, you can pull it. Lock the clutch back for reinstall. Blow air inside the clutch until no more dust comes out. Pull the forks out, clean with brake cleaner. Dry with air. Clean the spots on the case where the fork rollers ride. Don't spray cleaner on the slave cylinder bearing. Just wipe it with a wet rag (damp with cleaner)
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you for your suggestions, they are really valuable for me as an inexperienced DIYer
What does drive it hard once in a while mean ? Speed ? RPM? Thanx
Rpm
I recommend cleaning that engine!!!!!
Haha If they approve all the work I'll do that free of charge
a clean engine is a happy engine
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles