very informative and in depth tutorial and probably the best ive seen, as i do work on a friends td Freelander occasionally ive picked up alot of helpful advice and tips, well done, great tutorial.
Have done most of what you have shown in the video...small amounts of work that together have taken up a bit of my time. Regards smokey exhausts etc mine was also connected to lack of power and almost deadly lack of power when pulling away at junctions...but intermittent as well...so difficult to predict. After doing a leak back test I replaced an injector (not enough cash to replace them all) and also all the rubber hoses with silicone hoses. This made a great difference but still had a lack of power. I then invested some cash into a new wiring loom between the fuel pressure sensor and the ECU. This cured the issue of power immediately. The TD4 and that engine have many well documented 'fixes' that are mainly down to lack of maintenance by both previous owners and garages that do not know of the more specific and in-depth servicing needs of that engine. The PCV filter being a major cause of the 'smoking' issue that can lead to turbo seal failure. I have changed the filter for the 'upgraded' BMW part but to be honest, if you are a 'spanner wilding' nut then just replace the original filter yearly. Many people I correspond with online have tried the BMW upgrade and have reverted back to the original filter set up...Things I need to do are cleaning the intercooler but otherwise the engine is running okay. Normal maintenance excepted, ATM the fuel tank cradle is getting replaced and all the rear bushings on the suspension removed and replaced an metalwork de rusted/shot blast and resprayed...rear diff seal replaced and fresh diff mounts and obviously new oil etc. I could go on....
Nice to read you maintain it well. I can’t remember if I mention that wiring look issue in my videos, but well reminded of something else to check. As you hint at the key is good maintenance but at a low cost, as there is no point spending a fortune at garages on cheap cars.
Hi, I'm after some advice please. I have a land rover freelander 2 SD4 Auto Sport 2011 with the haldex diff, it is now whyning could i turn it in to a 2 wheel front drive and would that take the load of off the rear axle? would I need to disconnect the electrics from the haldex? would there be any repercussions from this? any help would be much appreciated Thanks
I didn’t, it was a while ago that i did this but from memory I don’t remember the need to buy any gaskets so probably just rubber seals that can be reused.
My mgztt with m47 doesn't get used much. It has 55000 miles fsh. However, when started from cold it smokes. Once revved a bit and left running it clears. Or turn engine and let it tick over for 5-10 mins it doesn't smoke or at least can't see. What do you think?
Hi I had my turbo value fitted. and it was fine for driving one day but then again last night I eventually got home some hour later through dark lane. I had full power no problem, no maintenance lights, but then the the power and revs went down to below 2 again, could not get any higher than 35 mp again. Any suggestion I could try myself first, I have a screwdriver and a few tools only?? Many thanks
Buy a turbo boost gauge, install on the inlet manifold after the intercooler to measure boost pressure. Mount the gauge in the car. I suspect a hose has split or holed. Inspect those.
@@comeinhandynow Many thanks for coming back to me. Unfortunately I dare not to venture out as its really bad. Its going back yet in again Tuesday when will be the next time I dare to go out. But I was thinking of doing the clean with the cardboard box you did to both hoses.
Hi, My Freelander, 55 reg, has left me very puzzled? pretty done everything as shown on your video. The symptoms and prognosis at 110k mileage. Very poor starting, when engine is hot or cold, fires immediately turning the key but very lumpy, 1/2 RPM idle, no throttle response, then dies. Second or third attempt starts like there was no issue but loads of blue smoke for a short period, 5 secs or so then runs as normal. Turbo air outlet dry but the rest of the intake is wet when removing the tube after the inter cooler? Pulls very well when driving, 450 miles to a tank, does not use oil, turbo changed at 68k (apparent manufacturing defect!) otherwise well maintained and serviced regularly. Any advise would be greatly welcomed.
wet intake very odd, try and get to the bottom of that. poor starting could be poor or blown glow plugs. otherwise check injector spray patterns and leak back plus high pressure sensor voltage.
Hopefully you managed to sort out your lumpy running engine and poor starting. It maybe you injectors are leaking into the cylinders and this may be causing the initial start and lumpy running issues.
Question, I have fitted a vortex upgrade thoroughly cleaned the intercooler system with new pipes cleaned manifold including the sensor it's had new injectors and regular cleaning of injectors new heater plugs EGR blank new oil new starter lots of new bits and tests and tomorrow going into have a new turbo fitted. All this done but still have a heavy vibration when in park (auto box) and under acceleration and noticeable vibration sound almost like piston slap but I know it's not that any ideas? I will follow the steps in this vid when the weather gets better as I've no garage but would like an opinion if your willing to help a frustrated TD4 owner. And white smoke on start up but not any noticeable smoke when driving.
The question is whether the vibration is caused by some unbalanced part (I have read that the rubber in the crank pulley can let go, it’s a dampened pully design - worth checking) or whether it’s caused by uneven running/misfire. You could try disconnecting each injector in turn. If there is one that doesn’t change the engine revs then that injector or cylinder could be the problem one. To avoid damaging the drive electronics when you disconnect the electrics to an injector, plug the wire it into a spare external injector.
@@comeinhandynow I had the same problem. I bought a leak off test kit and found one injector was leaking off twice as much as the others. Changed that injector and now it's much better.
Can I just say how informative your videos are. You do know these cars inside out. Would you go through diagnostics for my 2006 Td4 as I am sure I would not be as thorough. Thanks. Patrick
hello how are you, good day. I tell you I am from Argentina and I have an automatic free lander td4 and from one day to the next the reverse stopped working, you know what the problem could be. Thanks a lot
good day to you. the most you could easily do is check the oil level in the auto box is ok and that the lever connection is ok. After that you could maybe drain the autobox and change the internal filter and oil perhaps but really you need a specialist garage that rebuilds auto gearboxes to take a look.
Hi iv just got a Freelander I td4 an seems to have a misfire at 2 to 2.5k an clowes of white smoke starts an drives with all power fine only dus it between that rev range any idear what cud be? Iv un plugged each injecter an it run crap so think injectors are fine
I have a 2003 model td4. There is no problem when running at idle, but only between 2,500 rpm and 3000 rpm, it throws white smoke, above 3000 rpm, the smoke stops, what could be the problem, ? There is no lack of water
Hello there. i have a bid of engine shaking when idling. and it shows an engine light when accelerating, but doesnt show a fault when been diagnosed, i am also struggling to remove a stcked injector. can you kindly advice. your assistance is highly appreciated
Check over everything, a bit like in this video. Try another code reader and try and read when the light is on. Also check HP fuel pressure voltage/pressure and install a boost guage to check air / boost pressure or read off the obd2 scanner to try and indicate the area at fault. Google stuck injector removal.
Thank you so much for the reply. With multimeter tester? do i test the HP on a fuel rail sensor or on a regulator by the pump itself? thanks@@comeinhandynow
Hello Mate. Kindly assist where to find a throttle body on freelander 1 td4 2.0 and fuel temperature sensor and speed sensor.. your assistance is highly appreciated.
What would u say fixxed the issue then ? My car started smoking heavy white smoke I've recieved a P1195 code which is fuel pressure control valve ? I've noticed crank breather filter is soaked in oil so I've ordered vortex mod an new fuel pressure control valve hope this fixes the issue Fuel pressure control valve Crankcase breather mod
Mine was fixed after all the work (the more important ones were HP regulator seal which was worn, injectors cleaned, inlet cleaned, crank filter updated, intercooler cleaned and finally to compensate for still coked up valves and intake, a mod to push in more air with the custom turbo boost controller, even the common "smoke at 3000rpm stationary issue" was gone after this). The fuel pressure regulator seal issue is a common problem. Like a lot of these direct injection bmw engines the intake manifold clogs up with oil and carbon, slowing the air intake and giving richer mixture = smoke. Everything needs a good clean out and checking over.
What would you suggest I've check all cables and connectors as well is I can without voltage ohm reader I've removed inspected visually tested injectors and spray pattern I've checked for leaks in fuel lines checked seal around gas cap and seal around in tank pump all good up till now all fuel pumps sound fine is there any way of me sending you a video ? Thankyou for your reply
@@lukeandrew6369 All I can suggest is going through all the same steps as I did on mine. See all the videos in this series. The important ones are measuring the HP fuel rail sensor voltage, which checks the final fuel pressure is correct. Check the turbo air pressure (get a gauge), check the turbo control solenoid is working ok and the vacuum line is good, clean out the inlet manifold and intake tracts, and intercooler after changing crankcase filter.
Has a trip mileage recording but not mpg etc. Just the way things were back then. Didn’t have or really need esp either. Has traction control, not just to avoid spin but to aid 4x4 traction by using abs to pulse on individual wheels that spin, plus abs and hill descent control (speed limiting down steep hills using individual wheel braking), so quite good overall.
Great. Half the BITS we want to see done on another video. Don't like this hassle. Back to other people who don't just point at Filter area & don't actually show filter & where it hangs or clips ( as I have a small filter with no end on it at the back of main Air filter box but had to clip it myself & still don't know if another tube connects to other end of once CLAY FILLED 1 inch fuel filter shaped thing, or if it just OPEN to air. Thank you for not a lot I didn't already do the hard way without introducing MOISTURE TO INSIDE OF ENGINE/ CHEMICALS TO CLEAN LUBRICATING OILS AWAY FROM PISTONS ;-) I know more oil but STILL. Clean EVERYTHING else up & then get NICE & HOT. THEN GIVE HER A GOOD HIGH REV THRASHING to BRAKE off carbon deposits = AS ENGINES WAS DESIGNED TO DO. With an additive in the tank ;-)
Well, where do I start?! The small filter at back of air box is the open to air (no tube on one end) filter for the turbo control solenoid. I’ve another video on the turbo solenoid strip down where it is probably mentioned. That carbon on the inlet manifold won’t burn off with running hot, it doesn’t get hot enough. Adding a fuel additive won’t touch it either as the diesel doesn’t touch that area, diesel is injected straight in the combustion chamber. For your in capitals comments about moisture and chemicals, it is misguided. Water injection and (methanol injection) has been used for a long time on cars and steam is a combustion byproduct anyhow so a bit more steam does no harm, I believe. The piston rings are lubricated from underneath and a small amount of chemical cleaner for a short time makes little difference compared to the fire of combustion over years. Keep discussions civil please.
Hi my 2005 is blowing black smoke over 2k revs and it looses power for a second but doesn’t this in 2nd gear and up. Would you know what this could be.? Thanks.
Smoke usually means not enough air getting in so check for air leaks in the air intake pipes from the turbo to engine. You could try an air pressure test on the pipes, intercooler etc, in one of these TD4 videos on my channel somewhere. Also a boost gauge is cheap and easy to fit - useful for diagnosing problems and keep an eye on your engine. A bit odd though that it is gear dependant, unless the engine movement in 1st gear is more which opens up a hole in a pipe perhaps.
Hi Mike, I had a look around the workshop manual but it refers to another manual, the ERL, for electrical info. So best google it or look around the vehicle or trace the earth cable from the battery.
The inlet manifold that the egr bolts to is removeable and separates from the other engine side of the in inlet manifold, if that is what you mean. It doesn’t split any more than that.
Español Inglés Hola amigos tengo un problemilla tengo un freelander 1 TD4 con BMW y tengo un sonido horrible en la zona de la correa auxiliar y su tensor. Mi sorpresa es que no hay sitio ninguno para poder trabajar en la correa auxiliar y sacar su tensor. Alguien me podría indicar si hay algún truco o algún proceder que me pudieras ayudar para no tener que sacar el motor. llevamos días dándole vueltas como hacerlo .. muchas gracias Hello friends, I have a little problem. I have a Freelander 1 TD4 with BMW and I have a horrible sound in the area of the auxiliary belt and its tensioner. My surprise is that there is no place to work on the auxiliary belt and remove its tensioner. Could someone tell me if there is any trick or procedure that could help me so that I do not have to remove the engine. We've been thinking about how to do it for days. Thank you very much
Ah yes, that would be nice, but that would be going back to a job I did 40 (eek) years ago! when youtube didn’t exist. The Dolomite sprint was the first ‘fast’ car that I owned. Loved it. Had to do a lot of work on it, as was the way in those days, but still have fond memories.
@@comeinhandynow Well, the wife has an XF with the 5.0 V8 we've had since new (2011), other than that the only cars of note are my two projects, a 56 and a 57 Chevy Belair. My daily driver is a Honda Ridgeline truck, I like it a lot, but not very interesting. Do you ever see Brian?
Привет, по факту проблема не решена. Так как с завода нет никаких буст контроллеров и нет дыма никакого. Просмотрел ваши видео, все полностью, но проблема не решена. Заменил двигатель на контрактный, на родном моторе была минимальная компрессия, из за чего были коррекции положительные на форсунках……
@@comeinhandynow получается, что если полностью очистить впускные каналы от сажи и нагара, то тогда и не нужно поднимать давление турбины. У нас в России популярная услуга в автосервисах, чистка впускных трактов с помощью ореховой скорлупы. Вы не рассматривали такой метод очистки впускных каналов?
@@СергейКрюченков-у6у Yes that is true. Walnut shell cleaning is a commonly needed technique on these BMW engines. Not something I was able to do myself and not willing to pay for, this fix was all about DIY at low cost.
@@comeinhandynow недавно заменил двигатель. Так как на родном двигателе во втором цилиндре была минимальная компрессия. Сегодня всю ночь менял форсунки, так как делал это впервые. В результате, при заглушенном егр, на оборотах 2000 все в норме. Теперь проблема в оборотах 2900-3500. Двигатель работает неровно и дымит очень сильно. И сильные провалы в работе. Чтобы пересечь предел 3000оборотов на холостом ходу, приходится сильнее нажимать акселератор газа.
@@СергейКрюченков-у6у Maybe there is a problem with the turbo pressure, put a boost pressure gauge on the inlet manifold or measure the voltage at the MAP sensor.
Los subtítulos para cualquier idioma pueden ser añadidos por cualquier persona. Debes pedirle a un amigo que habla inglés y español que lo haga por ti.
@@comeinhandynow it was satire. Meaning with these motors all the original fixes did not fix the problem, you had to make a boost controller to stop the smoke. Did you measure the air fuel ratio after that though?
@@turbocpt1 Low AFR caused the smoke, which in turn was probably caused by valves and inlet clogged with carbon, which was compensated for by increased boost, which raised AFR and eliminated smoke.
very informative and in depth tutorial and probably the best ive seen, as i do work on a friends td Freelander occasionally ive picked up alot of helpful advice and tips, well done, great tutorial.
Thanks. Glad you liked it.
Love the random spray cleaning techniques. Really good vid, backs up my own ideas for mending stuff. Nice one!
Thanks!
This and all associated videos are an absolute gem! what a life saver so far !!
Thank you very much.
Have done most of what you have shown in the video...small amounts of work that together have taken up a bit of my time. Regards smokey exhausts etc mine was also connected to lack of power and almost deadly lack of power when pulling away at junctions...but intermittent as well...so difficult to predict. After doing a leak back test I replaced an injector (not enough cash to replace them all) and also all the rubber hoses with silicone hoses. This made a great difference but still had a lack of power. I then invested some cash into a new wiring loom between the fuel pressure sensor and the ECU. This cured the issue of power immediately. The TD4 and that engine have many well documented 'fixes' that are mainly down to lack of maintenance by both previous owners and garages that do not know of the more specific and in-depth servicing needs of that engine. The PCV filter being a major cause of the 'smoking' issue that can lead to turbo seal failure. I have changed the filter for the 'upgraded' BMW part but to be honest, if you are a 'spanner wilding' nut then just replace the original filter yearly. Many people I correspond with online have tried the BMW upgrade and have reverted back to the original filter set up...Things I need to do are cleaning the intercooler but otherwise the engine is running okay. Normal maintenance excepted, ATM the fuel tank cradle is getting replaced and all the rear bushings on the suspension removed and replaced an metalwork de rusted/shot blast and resprayed...rear diff seal replaced and fresh diff mounts and obviously new oil etc. I could go on....
Nice to read you maintain it well. I can’t remember if I mention that wiring look issue in my videos, but well reminded of something else to check. As you hint at the key is good maintenance but at a low cost, as there is no point spending a fortune at garages on cheap cars.
Man you spend money for another car ,that is crazy BMW rubish,what a crap
@@tk4329 English. Do you speak it or just headbutt the keyboard?
Excellent job. Thank you for taking the time, and sharing this Master class DIY in this topic.
Cheers
Great in-depth video and add ons. Thanks for this.
Stay well.
Ash 🏴
Thanks
Nice! I’ve been looking for a long time for that kind of explanation.. and here it is! Thank you for a detailed information!
Thanks
Excellent stage by stage fix for this, Very handy Thanks.
Thanks, glad you liked it.
amazing, thank you for the video
Cheers
It was very helpful for me, I have E46 318d.
Cheers
Do you have anny info about replacing timing chains and tensors??
Hi, I'm after some advice please. I have a land rover freelander 2 SD4 Auto Sport 2011 with the haldex diff, it is now whyning could i turn it in to a 2 wheel front drive and would that take the load of off the rear axle? would I need to disconnect the electrics from the haldex?
would there be any repercussions from this?
any help would be much appreciated Thanks
I am following your guide right now, I would like to know if I take off the inlet manifold would I not need to replace the gaskets
I didn’t, it was a while ago that i did this but from memory I don’t remember the need to buy any gaskets so probably just rubber seals that can be reused.
@@comeinhandynow thank you for your reply. Out of curiosity do you still drive the Freelander 1? My wife's LR now has 246000km.
Nice and clear presentation with a step by step process, I envy you. Subscribed :)
Thanks!
My mgztt with m47 doesn't get used much. It has 55000 miles fsh. However, when started from cold it smokes. Once revved a bit and left running it clears. Or turn engine and let it tick over for 5-10 mins it doesn't smoke or at least can't see. What do you think?
Probably carbonised up inside so if you want it fixed I can only recommend following my steps in the video.
Hi I had my turbo value fitted. and it was fine for driving one day but then again last night I eventually got home some hour later through dark lane. I had full power no problem, no maintenance lights, but then the the power and revs went down to below 2 again, could not get any higher than 35 mp again. Any suggestion I could try myself first, I have a screwdriver and a few tools only?? Many thanks
Buy a turbo boost gauge, install on the inlet manifold after the intercooler to measure boost pressure. Mount the gauge in the car. I suspect a hose has split or holed. Inspect those.
@@comeinhandynow Many thanks for coming back to me. Unfortunately I dare not to venture out as its really bad. Its going back yet in again Tuesday when will be the next time I dare to go out. But I was thinking of doing the clean with the cardboard box you did to both hoses.
Hi, My Freelander, 55 reg, has left me very puzzled? pretty done everything as shown on your video. The symptoms and prognosis at 110k mileage. Very poor starting, when engine is hot or cold, fires immediately turning the key but very lumpy, 1/2 RPM idle, no throttle response, then dies. Second or third attempt starts like there was no issue but loads of blue smoke for a short period, 5 secs or so then runs as normal. Turbo air outlet dry but the rest of the intake is wet when removing the tube after the inter cooler? Pulls very well when driving, 450 miles to a tank, does not use oil, turbo changed at 68k (apparent manufacturing defect!) otherwise well maintained and serviced regularly. Any advise would be greatly welcomed.
wet intake very odd, try and get to the bottom of that. poor starting could be poor or blown glow plugs. otherwise check injector spray patterns and leak back plus high pressure sensor voltage.
Hopefully you managed to sort out your lumpy running engine and poor starting. It maybe you injectors are leaking into the cylinders and this may be causing the initial start and lumpy running issues.
Question, I have fitted a vortex upgrade thoroughly cleaned the intercooler system with new pipes cleaned manifold including the sensor it's had new injectors and regular cleaning of injectors new heater plugs EGR blank new oil new starter lots of new bits and tests and tomorrow going into have a new turbo fitted.
All this done but still have a heavy vibration when in park (auto box) and under acceleration and noticeable vibration sound almost like piston slap but I know it's not that any ideas? I will follow the steps in this vid when the weather gets better as I've no garage but would like an opinion if your willing to help a frustrated TD4 owner.
And white smoke on start up but not any noticeable smoke when driving.
The question is whether the vibration is caused by some unbalanced part (I have read that the rubber in the crank pulley can let go, it’s a dampened pully design - worth checking) or whether it’s caused by uneven running/misfire. You could try disconnecting each injector in turn. If there is one that doesn’t change the engine revs then that injector or cylinder could be the problem one. To avoid damaging the drive electronics when you disconnect the electrics to an injector, plug the wire it into a spare external injector.
@@comeinhandynow I had the same problem. I bought a leak off test kit and found one injector was leaking off twice as much as the others. Changed that injector and now it's much better.
binarymale him p
If you have diagnostic machine that can do an injector balance test, to show that all the injectors are injecting the correct diesel quantity...
Can I just say how informative your videos are. You do know these cars inside out.
Would you go through diagnostics for my 2006 Td4 as I am sure I would not be as thorough.
Thanks.
Patrick
Thanks. Sorry I just do DIY advice. Good luck!
hello how are you, good day. I tell you I am from Argentina and I have an automatic free lander td4 and from one day to the next the reverse stopped working, you know what the problem could be. Thanks a lot
good day to you. the most you could easily do is check the oil level in the auto box is ok and that the lever connection is ok. After that you could maybe drain the autobox and change the internal filter and oil perhaps but really you need a specialist garage that rebuilds auto gearboxes to take a look.
I had big clouds of heavy blue smoke on cold start up.. turned out to be cylinder 2 injector leaking
glad you found the cause, well done.
How much was it to fix???
Hi iv just got a Freelander I td4 an seems to have a misfire at 2 to 2.5k an clowes of white smoke starts an drives with all power fine only dus it between that rev range any idear what cud be? Iv un plugged each injecter an it run crap so think injectors are fine
I had the same issue. You need to watch this video.
Great video 😎👍🏻
Cheers.
I have a 2003 model td4. There is no problem when running at idle, but only between 2,500 rpm and 3000 rpm, it throws white smoke, above 3000 rpm, the smoke stops, what could be the problem, ? There is no lack of water
This is exactly the subject of this video. Best to keep watching.
Hello there. i have a bid of engine shaking when idling. and it shows an engine light when accelerating, but doesnt show a fault when been diagnosed, i am also struggling to remove a stcked injector. can you kindly advice. your assistance is highly appreciated
Check over everything, a bit like in this video. Try another code reader and try and read when the light is on. Also check HP fuel pressure voltage/pressure and install a boost guage to check air / boost pressure or read off the obd2 scanner to try and indicate the area at fault. Google stuck injector removal.
Thank you so much for the reply. With multimeter tester? do i test the HP on a fuel rail sensor or on a regulator by the pump itself? thanks@@comeinhandynow
i have also managed to remove the in Injector yesterday, and thank you so much for the advice.
@@comeinhandynow
Hello Mate. Kindly assist where to find a throttle body on freelander 1 td4 2.0 and fuel temperature sensor and speed sensor.. your assistance is highly appreciated.
Try eBay, rimmerbros, LANDROVER classic and an internet search
My freelander has clouds of white smoke upon accelerating , will these steps fix it ?
White smoke could be water/steam, is it loosing any coolant?
@comeinhandynow nope not losing coolant
@@comeinhandynow it stinks of fuel
What would u say fixxed the issue then ? My car started smoking heavy white smoke I've recieved a P1195 code which is fuel pressure control valve ? I've noticed crank breather filter is soaked in oil so I've ordered vortex mod an new fuel pressure control valve hope this fixes the issue
Fuel pressure control valve
Crankcase breather mod
Mine was fixed after all the work (the more important ones were HP regulator seal which was worn, injectors cleaned, inlet cleaned, crank filter updated, intercooler cleaned and finally to compensate for still coked up valves and intake, a mod to push in more air with the custom turbo boost controller, even the common "smoke at 3000rpm stationary issue" was gone after this). The fuel pressure regulator seal issue is a common problem. Like a lot of these direct injection bmw engines the intake manifold clogs up with oil and carbon, slowing the air intake and giving richer mixture = smoke. Everything needs a good clean out and checking over.
What would you suggest I've check all cables and connectors as well is I can without voltage ohm reader I've removed inspected visually tested injectors and spray pattern I've checked for leaks in fuel lines checked seal around gas cap and seal around in tank pump all good up till now all fuel pumps sound fine is there any way of me sending you a video ? Thankyou for your reply
@@lukeandrew6369 All I can suggest is going through all the same steps as I did on mine. See all the videos in this series. The important ones are measuring the HP fuel rail sensor voltage, which checks the final fuel pressure is correct. Check the turbo air pressure (get a gauge), check the turbo control solenoid is working ok and the vacuum line is good, clean out the inlet manifold and intake tracts, and intercooler after changing crankcase filter.
@@comeinhandynow will give it a go when parts come should have crank breather mod tomorrow and new regulator by Thursday
What point did you notice it stop smoking ? Was it after u fixxed hp fuel regulator ?
I went to see a car like this , the car was build in 2006 and it doesn't have a trip computer or esp , how come ?
Has a trip mileage recording but not mpg etc. Just the way things were back then. Didn’t have or really need esp either. Has traction control, not just to avoid spin but to aid 4x4 traction by using abs to pulse on individual wheels that spin, plus abs and hill descent control (speed limiting down steep hills using individual wheel braking), so quite good overall.
@@comeinhandynow Yeah but strange cuz it doesn.t have mpg , bmw 3 series with the same engine from 1999 they have mpg.
Great. Half the BITS we want to see done on another video. Don't like this hassle. Back to other people who don't just point at Filter area & don't actually show filter & where it hangs or clips ( as I have a small filter with no end on it at the back of main Air filter box but had to clip it myself & still don't know if another tube connects to other end of once CLAY FILLED 1 inch fuel filter shaped thing, or if it just OPEN to air. Thank you for not a lot I didn't already do the hard way without introducing MOISTURE TO INSIDE OF ENGINE/ CHEMICALS TO CLEAN LUBRICATING OILS AWAY FROM PISTONS ;-) I know more oil but STILL. Clean EVERYTHING else up & then get NICE & HOT. THEN GIVE HER A GOOD HIGH REV THRASHING to BRAKE off carbon deposits = AS ENGINES WAS DESIGNED TO DO. With an additive in the tank ;-)
Well, where do I start?! The small filter at back of air box is the open to air (no tube on one end) filter for the turbo control solenoid. I’ve another video on the turbo solenoid strip down where it is probably mentioned. That carbon on the inlet manifold won’t burn off with running hot, it doesn’t get hot enough. Adding a fuel additive won’t touch it either as the diesel doesn’t touch that area, diesel is injected straight in the combustion chamber. For your in capitals comments about moisture and chemicals, it is misguided. Water injection and (methanol injection) has been used for a long time on cars and steam is a combustion byproduct anyhow so a bit more steam does no harm, I believe. The piston rings are lubricated from underneath and a small amount of chemical cleaner for a short time makes little difference compared to the fire of combustion over years. Keep discussions civil please.
Hi my 2005 is blowing black smoke over 2k revs and it looses power for a second but doesn’t this in 2nd gear and up. Would you know what this could be.? Thanks.
Smoke usually means not enough air getting in so check for air leaks in the air intake pipes from the turbo to engine. You could try an air pressure test on the pipes, intercooler etc, in one of these TD4 videos on my channel somewhere. Also a boost gauge is cheap and easy to fit - useful for diagnosing problems and keep an eye on your engine. A bit odd though that it is gear dependant, unless the engine movement in 1st gear is more which opens up a hole in a pipe perhaps.
Air leeks between MAF and intake valves-black smoke or/and injector nozzle leaking.
Looks clean a good paint correction she would look good
I think so too!
Mine puffs abit of white smoke out on the cold Start every morning, but after 30 seconds it doesn't smoke all day at all, strange 😅
Possibly an injector leaking fuel into a cylinder. A common issue on most deisel cars/vans etc
Thxxxx you🥰
Hi mate can you please tell me. Were will i find the engine earth. Thanks
Hi Mike, I had a look around the workshop manual but it refers to another manual, the ERL, for electrical info. So best google it or look around the vehicle or trace the earth cable from the battery.
Can you show me where you plumbed your blow off valve into please
I don’t think there is one, unless you know different.
Hi 0mate can you tell me if you can split the manifold were the egf valve is bolted to. Please
The inlet manifold that the egr bolts to is removeable and separates from the other engine side of the in inlet manifold, if that is what you mean. It doesn’t split any more than that.
Okay thanks @@comeinhandynow
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Hola amigos tengo un problemilla tengo un freelander 1 TD4 con BMW y tengo un sonido horrible en la zona de la correa auxiliar y su tensor. Mi sorpresa es que no hay sitio ninguno para poder trabajar en la correa auxiliar y sacar su tensor.
Alguien me podría indicar si hay algún truco o algún proceder que me pudieras ayudar para no tener que sacar el motor. llevamos días dándole vueltas como hacerlo .. muchas gracias
Hello friends, I have a little problem. I have a Freelander 1 TD4 with BMW and I have a horrible sound in the area of the auxiliary belt and its tensioner. My surprise is that there is no place to work on the auxiliary belt and remove its tensioner.
Could someone tell me if there is any trick or procedure that could help me so that I do not have to remove the engine. We've been thinking about how to do it for days. Thank you very much
Remove the wheel and the plastic side panel (3 upper 8mm or 10mm bolts) and the lower engine cover tray.
@@comeinhandynow thanks so much
Jon, time to do a video on rebuilding a Triumph Dolomite Sprint engine eh?
Ah yes, that would be nice, but that would be going back to a job I did 40 (eek) years ago! when youtube didn’t exist. The Dolomite sprint was the first ‘fast’ car that I owned. Loved it. Had to do a lot of work on it, as was the way in those days, but still have fond memories.
@@comeinhandynow Yes, I remember, your Dolly Sprint vs my Scimitar GTE and Benny Parrott's Capri 2 litre. good times!
Ah yes, that was a long time ago! Now I realise who I’m chatting to! Nice to hear from you. What cars are you into now?
@@comeinhandynow Well, the wife has an XF with the 5.0 V8 we've had since new (2011), other than that the only cars of note are my two projects, a 56 and a 57 Chevy Belair. My daily driver is a Honda Ridgeline truck, I like it a lot, but not very interesting. Do you ever see Brian?
@@kenc4104 Nice. And no, lost contact with Brian. Be nice to catch up more if you are ever in the UK, drop me a line whenever (email on channel).
Привет, по факту проблема не решена. Так как с завода нет никаких буст контроллеров и нет дыма никакого. Просмотрел ваши видео, все полностью, но проблема не решена. Заменил двигатель на контрактный, на родном моторе была минимальная компрессия, из за чего были коррекции положительные на форсунках……
The additional boost pressure I introduced compensated for the carbonised up internal inlet tracts. That in the end stopped it smoking.
@@comeinhandynow получается, что если полностью очистить впускные каналы от сажи и нагара, то тогда и не нужно поднимать давление турбины. У нас в России популярная услуга в автосервисах, чистка впускных трактов с помощью ореховой скорлупы. Вы не рассматривали такой метод очистки впускных каналов?
@@СергейКрюченков-у6у Yes that is true. Walnut shell cleaning is a commonly needed technique on these BMW engines. Not something I was able to do myself and not willing to pay for, this fix was all about DIY at low cost.
@@comeinhandynow недавно заменил двигатель. Так как на родном двигателе во втором цилиндре была минимальная компрессия. Сегодня всю ночь менял форсунки, так как делал это впервые. В результате, при заглушенном егр, на оборотах 2000 все в норме. Теперь проблема в оборотах 2900-3500. Двигатель работает неровно и дымит очень сильно. И сильные провалы в работе. Чтобы пересечь предел 3000оборотов на холостом ходу, приходится сильнее нажимать акселератор газа.
@@СергейКрюченков-у6у Maybe there is a problem with the turbo pressure, put a boost pressure gauge on the inlet manifold or measure the voltage at the MAP sensor.
My one only reads 14.1 and is A1.
If at 3000rpm fuel oressure regulator seal worn then, even though you think it’s good. Time to fix it.
I love you mate
Thanks!
I've used fuel and water to clean inlet manifold, it definitely won't set on fire will it when I put it back on? Hahahaha
Just let it evaporate first. Prob be ok
lastima porque esta en idioma ingles algun dia podre entender quien lo puede traducir gcs
Los subtítulos para cualquier idioma pueden ser añadidos por cualquier persona. Debes pedirle a un amigo que habla inglés y español que lo haga por ti.
Congratulations. You replaced everything and did noy fix it.
You didn't watch long enough! Fix by boosting air from turbo, then no smoke.
@@comeinhandynow it was satire. Meaning with these motors all the original fixes did not fix the problem, you had to make a boost controller to stop the smoke. Did you measure the air fuel ratio after that though?
@@turbocpt1 Low AFR caused the smoke, which in turn was probably caused by valves and inlet clogged with carbon, which was compensated for by increased boost, which raised AFR and eliminated smoke.
In french please ;)
Anyone can add french subtitles. Someone want to volunteer?
Never put steam or water in a diesel engine!
It’s good for cleaning and a byproduct of normal combustion is steam anyhow.
@@comeinhandynow you can hydrolock a diesel engine. Petrol is ok.
@@diggerd9267 That would have to be a lot of steam/water. Yes diesel is higher compression so more somewhat more susceptable.