Just this morning did exactly per vid and now my baby is running smoothly and it didn't cost anything amazing so greatful for this man's help. One thing to remember if your simple like me is the injector clamps, make sure they go in the right way up easy mistake to make.
@@comeinhandynow your welcome the injectors cleaned up great, but now I have to much a problem with the leak of pipe for some reason I must be getting to much back pressure and my spill pipe is soaked with diesel 😤😤😤 more head scratching coming my way
Clicked on the seal ring link could not find it on Ebay. Forgot to say brilliant video my freelander was on it's last legs, didn't like towing the caravan, now I have my old injectors out and ready to clean, also bought set of glow plugs so hope all will be fine
Excellent video. Just to add an easy way to remove tight injectors is to just unscrew the retaining studs as they work as a removal tool. You need a small female torx socket or a good fitting 4mm socket will do if they are not too tight. (The injectors will extract with just one of the studs if you find one that is too tight and you are worried about stripping the torx or shearing the stud)
Thank you so much for a comprehensive breakdown on that injector. I have been searching for information regarding injectors on a BMW X3. I now realise it is the same M47 engine. If I am right I am sure the BMW X3 owners would appreciate a link. Thanks Mark
A good tip for removing a really stuck injector without a slide hammer or expensive tool is to soak the area around your injectors before hand with oven cleaner, it will break down carbon deposit and grease I've used now a few time works great.
Thank youuuuuu! Extremely helpful. I used to loose compression on one of my injectors and all I had to do is to change the copper washer and it fixed it. It's been a few years now and I started to hear again that high pitch noise like loosing air compression and I believe it's the same issue. Will check the injectors soon. :D Cheers!
Hi very instructive video, thank you. The method for return flow shown works great if leak back is small like 10-20 ml/min. For badly worn out injectors with big leak back flow you need to use minimum 500 ml container (mine i used 4 x 2l bottles and time it for 10 mins on idle). Mine where leaking #1 110ml/min, #2 48ml/min, #3 40ml/min, #4 50ml/min. So except #3 all where worned out, most badly beeing #1, which is the 1st one to get reconditioned. keep u posted after recondition how will work. good luck and thank you again.
Brilliant video, I’m going to do this just because I can now, thanks to this video. It would be great to see you strip and instruct us on the top part you didn’t dismantle. This way we will know what this whole unit does. That is if you have or can get an old injector. It would be really appreciated. Thanks for this and all the other money saving and well laid out videos. cheers 🍻 Ash🏴
So strange to watch somebody work on the same engine I have (BMW 3) but facing 90 degrees to the right :) My 4th injector is leaking somewhere and I just wish I had better access to it. Really helpful video though, thanks a ton!!
Great vid please keep them comming , im leaning so much from you, im a female subscriber and love my freelander and wish to maintain and look after it as best i can GREAT VID !!!
Great video. I followed the video and cleaned my injectors but I have smoking over 2000rpm to 2500rpm and rattling. I am being told injectors need testing and calibrating. Did you have to have yours calibrated. Many thanks
Thanks. I read the calibration is mainly relevant at running at idle and matters less at higher revs. I didn’t calibrate mine. The smoke at 2500 rpm is an issue that does come up a few times and I had this on mine. I think it is because the engine clogs up with carbon, particularly around the valves. I did eventually cure the smoke, with some more work and a bit of a work around. See this other video of mine th-cam.com/video/sJFHvKIGHIA/w-d-xo.html
My car injector is getting black when I checked after 10km driving. The bottom sprayer side under the washer. Is it because of some leak or will diesel burn produce carbon that fast. My second question is. Is there any chance of leakage from the bottom side joint of the injector. I mean the one above the washer. Because my engine oil seems to be getting lighter. I couldn't find any leakage outside around common rail, return or fuel line on top side. I tested one of them, the way you showed now by taking them out completely but couldn't find any problem with that. Iam using continental injector so there is no other joints other than the bottom joint.
Perfect video mate thanks! Going to attempt this next weekend. I've got an ultrasonic bath to use and people mention online to let the nozzle soak in biodiesel to displace any left over water and solvent, do you think methanol would do the job? Cheers
Cheers! Probably. Petrol may also do the same. Be careful with not getting hands or eyes near the injector nozzles if you run them open to the air. Very high pressure.
Hiya, as usual I have a question, How long should I leave the injector nozzles in a ultra sonic cleaner and is there anything else I should ultra sonic clean. Any other hints and tips would be appreciated thanks. Ash
@@comeinhandynow Hi i have cleaned the injectors and put them back in the engine i tried to start the car , car wont start i see a little steam like fog around the injectors when i try to start the engine ! its like injectors are loose ! ant ips on puting theme back ?
In another video you stated it was possible to remove run the engine with the inlet manifold off. This, of course, could aid removal of the injectors if they were hot. With the manifold off, would the fact that the MAP sensor and IAT sensor not being connected could trigger the engine management light? - Thanks. Scott
You would have thought so but it didn’t in my car. Unless I just didn’t look for it and it cleared up by the time I drove it with everything connected.
Hey. I’ve got a Freelander that is refusing to start but it is cranking. I’ve noticed fuel is coming through the return lines when ignition is on. Should it do that?
Yes some, see the leakdown test in the video. Check the resistance of the glow plugs and if the HP fuel pressure sensor is giving the right voltage, see my video on that.
Thanks for sharing yor knowledge.. Please help with advice..engine running perfectly. Evry 500km.mixing nearly 1litre of disel fuel with motor oil.any suggestion?
hello I have a question following your video I have the same Freelander 1 TD4 engine I had the pump in the tank butcher and I replaced it and then I had zero diesel at the outlet of the HP pump and I completely restored it now I have diesel up to the injectors but not at the outlet of the injectors. how are the injectors controlled? can an alarm block the opening of the injectors for example? and once disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, is there a computer procedure to be carried out?
Injectors controlled from ecu but if engine is turning then not immobilised. Should be injecting without ecu modding needed I believe. Have you checked that you have good pressure to the injectors? See my video in hp fuel regulator to see how to measure and the correct voltage on the hp pressure sensor.
Thank you for your feedback I will watch your video I will cancel the alarm track which immobilizes the vehicle and I will check the pressure sensor and the electrical harness between the ECU and the pressure sensor and the pressure regulator. I even changed the pressure regulator on the HP pump but today I have pressure at the entrance to the injectors but nothing, no diesel at the exit
Good question. I don’t think so, at least I didn’t and I couldn’t find any info on doing it. However I just cleaned mine so low risk. To be honest I am not 100% certain, I do see shims inside the injectors when dismantled which are presumably set up at manufacture.
Nice one and thanks for showing us. I removed the top bit where the connector is now my engine is misfiring on that injector. Do I have to screw it back to a certain level or should I take it to a diesel specialist? Cheers
As far as I remember it should be tight not a certain level. If the lower part was taken apart and the very small shim disk was misplaced I would imagine it would mess up, but the top half is just the solenoid part so not so critical unless grit gets in it. Try testing the flow pattern and leak back as in the video. Sounds like you might need a new injector unless you can mismantle it and check for problems.
Thanks for your quick reply. It was a fully working injector and I took the top part off to use the injector puller adapter. I didn't remove the lower part.
There were a lot of steps that did finally stop the smoke, this step was just one of them, which definitely helped a bit. For the full story see th-cam.com/video/sJFHvKIGHIA/w-d-xo.html
How many volts should i see at the injector plug? I have a imobiliser code on the landy after doing alot of work on it. Now it wont start. Theres no voltage to the injector wiring
If you have an immobiliser code error then I should look up the code and make sure your key fob is synchronised (lots of presses open and close). I would not expect the injectors to be firing if it’s immobilised. The injectors would receive current pulses when they do operate which you may only be able to see on an oscilloscope.
Hi there. Thanks for the great guide. I have just carried out this work on my td4 injectors...On the body of the injectors there is a sliding collar / washer. On 2 of my injectors these are stuck in place. Are these for locating the injectors in their bores properly or are they insignificant? - If they are important then I'm going to have to try and release them with lots of WD40. Thanks again. Scott
@@comeinhandynow No. On the physical body of the injector near the top there is a sleeve and washer that slide up/down together. I only discovered this while cleaning an injector externally and it moved.
@@scottstephen3125 Have you a picture? Was it on mine anywhere in the video? As I don't remember it. Doesn't sound that important but would be nice to know of course.
@@comeinhandynow No.picture at the moment....On further inspection I think it may be quite important? - When you slide the retaining clamp onto the injector for installation there is a bit of wiggle where it locates on the groove on the injector. However, when you push the collar/washer up as previously described it secures the clamp a lot better on the injector. Perhaps this is to ensure square fitting and to avoid false torque on the clamp retaining nuts?
hi usually when injectors internal valve (the one controlled by the solenoid in the upper part) get stuck open by worn/debris, you will experience high volume of return flow (100ml/min) and drop of pressure in the injection common-rail, so engine will not start (if rail pressure
Hello mate, question if I may. I've had some on and off problems with my TD4. Stuttering, cutting out etc. and at one point not starting at all. Sometimes it tries to start and dies, other times it starts first turn. Anyway, replaced the LP fuel pump and filter under the rear wheel arch and also replaced the nylon washer and rubber ring in the fuel pressure regulator. Not easy with my sausage fingers. However, when I removed the inlet manifold to do this I noticed the inlet on the engine at cyclinder 1 (far left as you look at it) was dry and powdery, instead of being damp like the other 3. Would this indicate that the injector isn't supplying sufficient fuel to that cyclinder? And therefore that injector is not working as it should? I wanted to ask before I strip it down again and either replace or repair the injector. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
@@comeinhandynow No, of course. It just seemed odd that three were damp like the rest of the deposits in the inlet box but on cylinder 1 it was dry and powdery. Looks like I'm going to have to look at the injectors. No worries. Thanks anyway.
Got a Rover 75 with the same M47 engine, noticed the oil level is high. The previous owner disconnected the MAF saying it had MAF issues. I'm not sure if it's over fuelled and leaked past the rings, or if its going to be a leaky injector. Idles rough but otherwise drives perfect. I've only had it 2 days so I've yet to investigate the MAF, just looking ahead is all. Particularly hard to get to the injectors or? I've found most of the 75 easy to work on so far and well thought out for maintenance so suspect not. Many thanks buddy!
It is possible a clean might fix a leak as the plunger which controls the fuel may be sticking. You could check for leaks by having the injectors plumbed in outside and crank over the engine with no electrical connection to the injectors to see if any fuel comes out of them. Take care with gloves, mask etc. The Bosch MAFs can fail, I have heard, but check everything else like the HP fuel sensor readings first.
Hi there, thanks very much for your production of this very informative video. I’ve just used this knowledge to repair my new td4 freelander. One thing I would like to note you you though is, i after reassembling my 2 injectors I found two little springs on the garage floor, turned out they sit underneath the “collar” that sits around the wee disc. I never noticed them in your video and was a little worried as they are the plunger springs and had I reassembled and started my engine with them out it would have been a Diesel engine run away situation. It may be an idea to add some text to the video warning of this. I assume the wet diesel simply held yours in place?? Anyway, thanks again 👍🏼
Search the internet for a workshop manual pdf, there are some about. Or a Haynes workshop manual, they are cheap on ebay. Sorry don’t have the data to hand at the moment.
Hi mate.Do you know what they call the fuel line on top of the glow plugs (the black one)because one of the tiny black conecters has snapped. Any advice is welcomed. Is it possible will need set of glow plugs plus fuel pipe. Or can I get spare bits. Many thanks. Mike
Do you mean connectors on glow plugs or fuel injectors? Only fuel injectors have fuel lines. There are black plastic T-pieces on the fuel return lines from each injector. Ha enough tried rimmerbros? Or just try a Landrover supplier or dealer. There are lots of small independents as well.
@@comeinhandynow the one with the tee pieces. Has broken off.only had car 3 weeks don't know if I can get any tee pieces because it's a clean break tight up to glow plug
@@comeinhandynow that's the one. I've been racking my brain out trying to find out the name. Now only got a little hair left. What a STAR thank you very much.
I have snapped the glow plug in my td4 freelander 2006 and the electrode part has stopped in .and I can not get it out that has snapped below the hole for the plug
Oh dear, tricky. So you will have to try drilling a small hole in it and using a reverse thread bolt extractor tool/bolt. If any debris gets in the bore the its a cylinder head off job.
what we aim to do is either leave it or the best way is I have a removal kit and it has some small guides in it drill the thin part away and then drill a small hole into the end bit I have some reverse bolt extractors so will try the small one and if any bits get in I aim to put a good old hoover down the injector hole and then for good luck I have a small camera I can plug into my lap top and look down it I will let you know if all goes to plan once we have a bit of warm weather that is but thank for your help we enjoy your videos
Late reply, but maybe useful for others: The injectors themselves are not necessarily "programmed" to the ECU, but over time the ECU adapts the duty cycle (=how much time they are open) of each individual injector to compensate for wear, blockage, etc. In Bosch terminology, fuel compensation values. These can be read with appropriate diagnostic equipment. When injectors on a well used motor are removed and replaced, they should go back to the same cylinder for this reason. Or when new injectors are installed, the compensation values should be cleared. Again with appropriate diagnostic equipment. Unfortunately, I am not aware of a system within a private user budget that performs these 2 functions. The GAP IIDTool works on the L322 Range Rover TD6 (same motor with 2 more cylinders), but not the Freelander 1.
Hi, what is the sign of injectors not firing, I had a guy take my inlet manifold off ( cracked ) and he has left me with a non fire engine, the car turns over with the injectors knocking on crank, fires for 2 secs then dies, could I send you a video of the sound please, se if its the injectors, I know he did not use the new seals
I would suggest measuring the hp fuel rail sensor voltage, it’s shown in my video about the hp fuel regulator. That will tell you if you have fuel going to the injectors. if you have you could try removing the injectors and running them in the open air like I show in this video to see if they are pumping diesel out. Be careful, as described in the video as they are very high pressure. Maybe you just have air in the system that needs running through to remove... very hard to diagnose remotely or via a video. you either need to go through some of the tests I show in my videos or get a mechanic to diagnose if you don’t want to.
I know this is 4 years ago now but I need a little help with this, my car won’t start, when trying to start diesel pours out of it , I can’t see where it’s coming from but it’s not the injectors as fuel isn’t getting that high, all I can see is it dripping from the oil pan(it’s obviously running down from somewhere) any ideas?
I've just done this to my 2010 renault scenic1.5 dci and now car wont start, message on dash said, 'stop, injection issue' then disappeared, any ideas would be really appreciated, cheers Ps I had to take the top of the injector off to get the puller on the injector a small metal piece in the injector fell out I replaced this, when resembling, cheers
Assuming the injectors are still good after all that reassembling, maybe they just have air in them. Try that leak back test in the video to see if fuel is getting through them and check they are all about the same leak back amount while you are at it. If that doesn't show any problem, you could try an OBD2 reader to read the error code and maybe check the injectors are spraying OK, like in the video but take care with your health - mask, gloves, mash etc as described.
@@comeinhandynow hi thanks for the reply, there were some code on my odb2 reader, saying fuel pressure and injection circuit but they disappeared when I re scanned...I dis connected the leak back pipe and cranked the engine, but not much fuel came out of the nipple on the injector, problem is I'm not sure if that's normal? Would it matter which way round the injector went back in..what I mean is theres 2 ways the collar fits and because I took off the top, I may have put it back together the wrong way, sounds silly but I never thought about it when I did it because the injector is round... thank you for any help you can give me pscould there be air in the system
@@robertashdown4984 You should have some leakback fuel coming out. Sounds like air in the system. Doesn't sound like the fitting is the issue, but testing the injector spray will tell you. May take a while cranking the engine to work out the air. OR loosen off the fuel inlet pipe at the injector until fuel comes out.
Common-rail direct fuel injection is a direct fuel injection system for diesel engines. After opening the CR system appears an error on your dashboard and you have to bleed it. Or isn't it the M47N version?
Hi can someone help me please my freelander 1 td4 03 has been struggling to start in morning blue smoke thought was injector so removed injectors cleaned them put bk together now wont start at all just turns over checked everything still no good anyone help
That is certainly easier but not as good a clean. Testing the leakback and checking the spray pattern is also a good idea. If one or two spray holes are blocked then redex wont be able to get through to clean it or unblock it.
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At last Someone who knows what there talking about.... very informative and well explained Spot On many thanks Dude
Thanks.
Doesnt it make a difference when the guy is intelligent
@@comeinhandynow hi would you able to tell me if I should have 12v on the injector plug on ignition or do you only get 12v on crank? Many thanks
Just this morning did exactly per vid and now my baby is running smoothly and it didn't cost anything amazing so greatful for this man's help.
One thing to remember if your simple like me is the injector clamps, make sure they go in the right way up easy mistake to make.
Great to read. Thanks for the feedback.
@@comeinhandynow your welcome the injectors cleaned up great, but now I have to much a problem with the leak of pipe for some reason I must be getting to much back pressure and my spill pipe is soaked with diesel 😤😤😤 more head scratching coming my way
Excellent video, I learned more today than in last 60 years about injectors. thank you so much.
Thank you, very nice to have such feedback.
Thanks man, i forgot how to put on injector holders and this helped, u the mvp
Cheers
By far one of the most informative videos i've ever seen on here. Thank you.
Thanks
Clicked on the seal ring link could not find it on Ebay. Forgot to say brilliant video my freelander was on it's last legs, didn't like towing the caravan, now I have my old injectors out and ready to clean, also bought set of glow plugs so hope all will be fine
Is it these that you mean. ebay.us/SNNdxc
Excellent video. Just to add an easy way to remove tight injectors is to just unscrew the retaining studs as they work as a removal tool. You need a small female torx socket or a good fitting 4mm socket will do if they are not too tight. (The injectors will extract with just one of the studs if you find one that is too tight and you are worried about stripping the torx or shearing the stud)
Thanks, sounds like a good tip.
Thank you so much for a comprehensive breakdown on that injector. I have been searching for information regarding injectors on a BMW X3. I now realise it is the same M47 engine. If I am right I am sure the BMW X3 owners would appreciate a link. Thanks Mark
Thanks, feel free to post a link on any forums
A good tip for removing a really stuck injector without a slide hammer or expensive tool is to soak the area around your injectors before hand with oven cleaner, it will break down carbon deposit and grease I've used now a few time works great.
Sounds good. P.S. now on facebook as well facebook.com/comeinhandynow
Thank youuuuuu! Extremely helpful. I used to loose compression on one of my injectors and all I had to do is to change the copper washer and it fixed it. It's been a few years now and I started to hear again that high pitch noise like loosing air compression and I believe it's the same issue. Will check the injectors soon. :D Cheers!
Thanks. Good luck
@@comeinhandynow Fingers crossed.
Hi very instructive video, thank you. The method for return flow shown works great if leak back is small like 10-20 ml/min. For badly worn out injectors with big leak back flow you need to use minimum 500 ml container (mine i used 4 x 2l bottles and time it for 10 mins on idle). Mine where leaking #1 110ml/min, #2 48ml/min, #3 40ml/min, #4 50ml/min. So except #3 all where worned out, most badly beeing #1, which is the 1st one to get reconditioned. keep u posted after recondition how will work. good luck and thank you again.
Thanks for contributing. Good feedback.
Just seam to be 1 would not start with out easy, start changed it started first go and runs like a mouses heart delighted
Great, well done.
Thank you for the informative video, on cleaning injectors !!
Cheers
You can get ceramic paste to prevent injectors getting stuck in future 👍🏻
Brilliant video, I’m going to do this just because I can now, thanks to this video.
It would be great to see you strip and instruct us on the top part you didn’t dismantle. This way we will know what this whole unit does.
That is if you have or can get an old injector.
It would be really appreciated.
Thanks for this and all the other money saving and well laid out videos.
cheers 🍻
Ash🏴
Thanks, unfortunately I didn’t and haven’t done the top half. Maybe another time in the future.
So strange to watch somebody work on the same engine I have (BMW 3) but facing 90 degrees to the right :) My 4th injector is leaking somewhere and I just wish I had better access to it. Really helpful video though, thanks a ton!!
Thanks, good luck with yours.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks, I hope I'll have some luck!
Great vid please keep them comming , im leaning so much from you, im a female subscriber and love my freelander and wish to maintain and look after it as best i can GREAT VID !!!
Thanks, great to read. A few more to come on the freelander, just taking me a while to edit.
Very good, clear and well delivered video. Thank you 👍
Cheers.
Great video. I followed the video and cleaned my injectors but I have smoking over 2000rpm to 2500rpm and rattling. I am being told injectors need testing and calibrating. Did you have to have yours calibrated. Many thanks
Thanks. I read the calibration is mainly relevant at running at idle and matters less at higher revs. I didn’t calibrate mine. The smoke at 2500 rpm is an issue that does come up a few times and I had this on mine. I think it is because the engine clogs up with carbon, particularly around the valves. I did eventually cure the smoke, with some more work and a bit of a work around. See this other video of mine th-cam.com/video/sJFHvKIGHIA/w-d-xo.html
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for your reply. I'll watch your other video.
I didn't hear curse words. Super
I edit them out if I accidentally let one out. ;)
Good
Good mechanic. Wish you could fix my injectors on my car.
Start doing small jobs, eventually you will confident doing jobs like this.
In another video it said to not remove the top part (top where the connector is) as it will mess up the calibration of injector.
Having taken them apart I can see it doesn’t affect calibration unless you happen to loose the small little disc inside.
My car injector is getting black when I checked after 10km driving. The bottom sprayer side under the washer. Is it because of some leak or will diesel burn produce carbon that fast.
My second question is. Is there any chance of leakage from the bottom side joint of the injector. I mean the one above the washer. Because my engine oil seems to be getting lighter. I couldn't find any leakage outside around common rail, return or fuel line on top side. I tested one of them, the way you showed now by taking them out completely but couldn't find any problem with that. Iam using continental injector so there is no other joints other than the bottom joint.
Bloody brilliant, thanks
Thanks
Perfect video mate thanks! Going to attempt this next weekend. I've got an ultrasonic bath to use and people mention online to let the nozzle soak in biodiesel to displace any left over water and solvent, do you think methanol would do the job? Cheers
Cheers! Probably. Petrol may also do the same. Be careful with not getting hands or eyes near the injector nozzles if you run them open to the air. Very high pressure.
Hiya, as usual I have a question,
How long should I leave the injector nozzles in a ultra sonic cleaner and is there anything else I should ultra sonic clean. Any other hints and tips would be appreciated thanks.
Ash
I’ve not used one so can’t answer that. I guess long enough until it looks clean. :)
Great Video thanks very much
Glad you enjoyed it
@@comeinhandynow Hi i have cleaned the injectors and put them back in the engine i tried to start the car , car wont start i see a little steam like fog around the injectors when i try to start the engine ! its like injectors are loose ! ant ips on puting theme back ?
Saved me a grand no one new what was wrong will try on other hdis plenty bad ones round here
Good to read. Good luck.
In another video you stated it was possible to remove run the engine with the inlet manifold off. This, of course, could aid removal of the injectors if they were hot. With the manifold off, would the fact that the MAP sensor and IAT sensor not being connected could trigger the engine management light? - Thanks. Scott
You would have thought so but it didn’t in my car. Unless I just didn’t look for it and it cleared up by the time I drove it with everything connected.
Hey. I’ve got a Freelander that is refusing to start but it is cranking. I’ve noticed fuel is coming through the return lines when ignition is on. Should it do that?
Yes some, see the leakdown test in the video. Check the resistance of the glow plugs and if the HP fuel pressure sensor is giving the right voltage, see my video on that.
Thanks for sharing yor knowledge..
Please help with advice..engine running perfectly. Evry 500km.mixing nearly 1litre of disel fuel with motor oil.any suggestion?
Maybe a leaking injector. So diesel leaks past the piston rings into the oil.
hello I have a question following your video I have the same Freelander 1 TD4 engine I had the pump in the tank butcher and I replaced it and then I had zero diesel at the outlet of the HP pump and I completely restored it now I have diesel up to the injectors but not at the outlet of the injectors.
how are the injectors controlled? can an alarm block the opening of the injectors for example? and once disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, is there a computer procedure to be carried out?
Injectors controlled from ecu but if engine is turning then not immobilised. Should be injecting without ecu modding needed I believe. Have you checked that you have good pressure to the injectors? See my video in hp fuel regulator to see how to measure and the correct voltage on the hp pressure sensor.
Thank you for your feedback I will watch your video
I will cancel the alarm track which immobilizes the vehicle
and I will check the pressure sensor and the electrical harness between the ECU and the pressure sensor and the pressure regulator.
I even changed the pressure regulator on the HP pump but today I have pressure at the entrance to the injectors but nothing, no diesel at the exit
*Is it necessary to program the injectors in the freelander td4?*
Thanks
Good question. I don’t think so, at least I didn’t and I couldn’t find any info on doing it. However I just cleaned mine so low risk. To be honest I am not 100% certain, I do see shims inside the injectors when dismantled which are presumably set up at manufacture.
Nice one and thanks for showing us. I removed the top bit where the connector is now my engine is misfiring on that injector. Do I have to screw it back to a certain level or should I take it to a diesel specialist? Cheers
As far as I remember it should be tight not a certain level. If the lower part was taken apart and the very small shim disk was misplaced I would imagine it would mess up, but the top half is just the solenoid part so not so critical unless grit gets in it. Try testing the flow pattern and leak back as in the video. Sounds like you might need a new injector unless you can mismantle it and check for problems.
Thanks for your quick reply. It was a fully working injector and I took the top part off to use the injector puller adapter. I didn't remove the lower part.
Did it stop any smoke and lumpy engine.
My td4 is smokey and lumpy when cold, but as soon as it's warmed up it runs fine. Any ideas?
There were a lot of steps that did finally stop the smoke, this step was just one of them, which definitely helped a bit. For the full story see th-cam.com/video/sJFHvKIGHIA/w-d-xo.html
awesome video!!!thx
Thanks
great video very informative
Cheers
great video thank you do you have the link for the injectors bmw engine plz
Thanks.
You could try Amazon (UK) : amzn.to/34NfwGg
Or ebay (UK): ebay.to/2lY8vjF
How many volts should i see at the injector plug? I have a imobiliser code on the landy after doing alot of work on it. Now it wont start. Theres no voltage to the injector wiring
If you have an immobiliser code error then I should look up the code and make sure your key fob is synchronised (lots of presses open and close). I would not expect the injectors to be firing if it’s immobilised. The injectors would receive current pulses when they do operate which you may only be able to see on an oscilloscope.
Hi there. Thanks for the great guide. I have just carried out this work on my td4 injectors...On the body of the injectors there is a sliding collar / washer. On 2 of my injectors these are stuck in place. Are these for locating the injectors in their bores properly or are they insignificant? - If they are important then I'm going to have to try and release them with lots of WD40. Thanks again. Scott
Thanks. Not sure which bit that is, do you mean the copper washers? If so those are for sealing the injector down when tightening up.
@@comeinhandynow No. On the physical body of the injector near the top there is a sleeve and washer that slide up/down together. I only discovered this while cleaning an injector externally and it moved.
@@scottstephen3125 Have you a picture? Was it on mine anywhere in the video? As I don't remember it. Doesn't sound that important but would be nice to know of course.
@@comeinhandynow No.picture at the moment....On further inspection I think it may be quite important? - When you slide the retaining clamp onto the injector for installation there is a bit of wiggle where it locates on the groove on the injector. However, when you push the collar/washer up as previously described it secures the clamp a lot better on the injector. Perhaps this is to ensure square fitting and to avoid false torque on the clamp retaining nuts?
@@scottstephen3125 sounds plausible
hi guy do you know where is the injector coding number
What causes chronic leak back do you know ? Great article will try with old injector
I think heavily worn internals of the injector.
hi usually when injectors internal valve (the one controlled by the solenoid in the upper part) get stuck open by worn/debris, you will experience high volume of return flow (100ml/min) and drop of pressure in the injection common-rail, so engine will not start (if rail pressure
Hello mate, question if I may. I've had some on and off problems with my TD4. Stuttering, cutting out etc. and at one point not starting at all. Sometimes it tries to start and dies, other times it starts first turn. Anyway, replaced the LP fuel pump and filter under the rear wheel arch and also replaced the nylon washer and rubber ring in the fuel pressure regulator. Not easy with my sausage fingers. However, when I removed the inlet manifold to do this I noticed the inlet on the engine at cyclinder 1 (far left as you look at it) was dry and powdery, instead of being damp like the other 3. Would this indicate that the injector isn't supplying sufficient fuel to that cyclinder? And therefore that injector is not working as it should? I wanted to ask before I strip it down again and either replace or repair the injector. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I don’t think it would indicate that as the injectors are direct to the combustion chamber not the inlet.
@@comeinhandynow No, of course. It just seemed odd that three were damp like the rest of the deposits in the inlet box but on cylinder 1 it was dry and powdery. Looks like I'm going to have to look at the injectors. No worries. Thanks anyway.
Probably hopeful, does cleaning ever fix leaky injectors? Or by the time they leak are they mechanically worn?
Got a Rover 75 with the same M47 engine, noticed the oil level is high. The previous owner disconnected the MAF saying it had MAF issues. I'm not sure if it's over fuelled and leaked past the rings, or if its going to be a leaky injector. Idles rough but otherwise drives perfect. I've only had it 2 days so I've yet to investigate the MAF, just looking ahead is all.
Particularly hard to get to the injectors or? I've found most of the 75 easy to work on so far and well thought out for maintenance so suspect not.
Many thanks buddy!
It is possible a clean might fix a leak as the plunger which controls the fuel may be sticking. You could check for leaks by having the injectors plumbed in outside and crank over the engine with no electrical connection to the injectors to see if any fuel comes out of them. Take care with gloves, mask etc. The Bosch MAFs can fail, I have heard, but check everything else like the HP fuel sensor readings first.
Hi there, thanks very much for your production of this very informative video. I’ve just used this knowledge to repair my new td4 freelander.
One thing I would like to note you you though is, i after reassembling my 2 injectors I found two little springs on the garage floor, turned out they sit underneath the “collar” that sits around the wee disc. I never noticed them in your video and was a little worried as they are the plunger springs and had I reassembled and started my engine with them out it would have been a Diesel engine run away situation.
It may be an idea to add some text to the video warning of this. I assume the wet diesel simply held yours in place??
Anyway, thanks again 👍🏼
Thanks I put in a short paragraph to watch out for those.
question: after disassembling the injectors is it necessary to prime the injection system?
Didn’t seem to need it on mine, but if air in it I should think it might take some seconds cranking to clear out.
@@comeinhandynow thanks for answering,great video,learned a lot!
@@mihaitzqbogdanudrea1304 Thanks good to hear.
Hello mate, can u tell me the Torque settings for the nuts
Search the internet for a workshop manual pdf, there are some about. Or a Haynes workshop manual, they are cheap on ebay. Sorry don’t have the data to hand at the moment.
Hi mate.Do you know what they call the fuel line on top of the glow plugs (the black one)because one of the tiny black conecters has snapped. Any advice is welcomed. Is it possible will need set of glow plugs plus fuel pipe. Or can I get spare bits. Many thanks. Mike
Do you mean connectors on glow plugs or fuel injectors? Only fuel injectors have fuel lines. There are black plastic T-pieces on the fuel return lines from each injector. Ha enough tried rimmerbros? Or just try a Landrover supplier or dealer. There are lots of small independents as well.
@@comeinhandynow the one with the tee pieces. Has broken off.only had car 3 weeks don't know if I can get any tee pieces because it's a clean break tight up to glow plug
Unless i can try to drill it out and go from there.
@@mikestorey6242 do you mean this? bit.ly/3okwPba
@@comeinhandynow that's the one. I've been racking my brain out trying to find out the name. Now only got a little hair left. What a STAR thank you very much.
I have snapped the glow plug in my td4 freelander 2006 and the electrode part has stopped in .and I can not get it out that has snapped below the hole for the plug
Oh dear, tricky. So you will have to try drilling a small hole in it and using a reverse thread bolt extractor tool/bolt. If any debris gets in the bore the its a cylinder head off job.
what we aim to do is either leave it or the best way is I have a removal kit and it has some small guides in it drill the thin part away and then drill a small hole into the end bit I have some reverse bolt extractors so will try the small one and if any bits get in I aim to put a good old hoover down the injector hole and then for good luck I have a small camera I can plug into my lap top and look down it I will let you know if all goes to plan once we have a bit of warm weather that is but thank for your help we enjoy your videos
@@eddieMurphy11111 Thanks and good luck.
Are the injectors supposed to be in a particular order and registered/programmed into the ECU?
I don’t believe so. Unless someone proves me wrong.
Late reply, but maybe useful for others: The injectors themselves are not necessarily "programmed" to the ECU, but over time the ECU adapts the duty cycle (=how much time they are open) of each individual injector to compensate for wear, blockage, etc. In Bosch terminology, fuel compensation values. These can be read with appropriate diagnostic equipment. When injectors on a well used motor are removed and replaced, they should go back to the same cylinder for this reason. Or when new injectors are installed, the compensation values should be cleared. Again with appropriate diagnostic equipment. Unfortunately, I am not aware of a system within a private user budget that performs these 2 functions. The GAP IIDTool works on the L322 Range Rover TD6 (same motor with 2 more cylinders), but not the Freelander 1.
Hi, what is the sign of injectors not firing, I had a guy take my inlet manifold off ( cracked ) and he has left me with a non fire engine, the car turns over with the injectors knocking on crank, fires for 2 secs then dies, could I send you a video of the sound please, se if its the injectors, I know he did not use the new seals
My car is the TDV8 common rail
I would suggest measuring the hp fuel rail sensor voltage, it’s shown in my video about the hp fuel regulator. That will tell you if you have fuel going to the injectors. if you have you could try removing the injectors and running them in the open air like I show in this video to see if they are pumping diesel out. Be careful, as described in the video as they are very high pressure. Maybe you just have air in the system that needs running through to remove... very hard to diagnose remotely or via a video. you either need to go through some of the tests I show in my videos or get a mechanic to diagnose if you don’t want to.
I know this is 4 years ago now but I need a little help with this, my car won’t start, when trying to start diesel pours out of it , I can’t see where it’s coming from but it’s not the injectors as fuel isn’t getting that high, all I can see is it dripping from the oil pan(it’s obviously running down from somewhere) any ideas?
High pressure fuel regulator probably. See my video on changing that seal
@@comeinhandynow thank you I will check it out
@@comeinhandynow it’s my high pressure fuel pump, do you have a video on changing it
@@tempfrompsini5198 no sorry, but it is described in the haynes worksop manual i think
What are the exact dimensions of the fuel return line connector rubber o-rings? I could not find them anywhere in my country as a spare part :(
What about this, which is the whole return pipe with fittings and o-rings, I thnk: rimmerbros.com/Item--i-8510322 Or try your local Landrover dealer.
@@comeinhandynow Yeah, I've come across it but in my case it's pretty obvious that those rubber parts are worn and causing the problem not the hoses
@@bojidarvasilev3574 You could try one of those kits of o-rings of various sizes that you get on ebay to see if one fits.
@@comeinhandynow Just put a set of 3x1.2 and fit well. Tried 3x1.5 before that but were too wide and couldn't click. Hope they will do the work.
@@bojidarvasilev3574 Good to know, thanks.
I've just done this to my 2010 renault scenic1.5 dci and now car wont start, message on dash said, 'stop, injection issue' then disappeared, any ideas would be really appreciated, cheers
Ps I had to take the top of the injector off to get the puller on the injector a small metal piece in the injector fell out I replaced this, when resembling, cheers
Assuming the injectors are still good after all that reassembling, maybe they just have air in them. Try that leak back test in the video to see if fuel is getting through them and check they are all about the same leak back amount while you are at it. If that doesn't show any problem, you could try an OBD2 reader to read the error code and maybe check the injectors are spraying OK, like in the video but take care with your health - mask, gloves, mash etc as described.
@@comeinhandynow hi thanks for the reply, there were some code on my odb2 reader, saying fuel pressure and injection circuit but they disappeared when I re scanned...I dis connected the leak back pipe and cranked the engine, but not much fuel came out of the nipple on the injector, problem is I'm not sure if that's normal? Would it matter which way round the injector went back in..what I mean is theres 2 ways the collar fits and because I took off the top, I may have put it back together the wrong way, sounds silly but I never thought about it when I did it because the injector is round... thank you for any help you can give me
pscould there be air in the system
@@robertashdown4984 You should have some leakback fuel coming out. Sounds like air in the system. Doesn't sound like the fitting is the issue, but testing the injector spray will tell you. May take a while cranking the engine to work out the air. OR loosen off the fuel inlet pipe at the injector until fuel comes out.
@@comeinhandynow I'll try that, cheers for your help
Nice video! How did you bleed the CR system?
Thanks. I don't recall doing any bleeding. What is CR anyhow?
Common-rail direct fuel injection is a direct fuel injection system for diesel engines.
After opening the CR system appears an error on your dashboard and you have to bleed it.
Or isn't it the M47N version?
Got you. Silly me. It’s an M47R engine. Yes common rail. Any air bled out through the injectors I guess. No error codes.
I'm interested in bleeding the system because I run out of fuel and I've got the error.
I can't find any bleeding method without a diagnostic tool.
I would just slacken off a nut on the fuel to the injector, put a rag around it and turn it over until fuel comes out.
Could you tell me what size the thread is that the electrical connector screws onto so that I can make an adapter for my slide hammer
Thanks
sorry I haven’t got that
merci pour cette video ; )
Merci
Hi can someone help me please my freelander 1 td4 03 has been struggling to start in morning blue smoke thought was injector so removed injectors cleaned them put bk together now wont start at all just turns over checked everything still no good anyone help
Have you checked the glow plugs?
@@comeinhandynow no mate they are new
@@beno-ew2rg You could try checking the injectors spray out out like in the video. Be careful with your health as described.
@@comeinhandynow ye mate but injectors where full of diesel ive had out 3 times
@@comeinhandynow phoned rac one of injectors are nakerd
EGR blanking unit I see🤫.
Not my choice, came with the car. A bit naughty!
You obviously liked physics at school!
Spot on! I like a challenge!
4 shot redex half tank fuel
That is certainly easier but not as good a clean. Testing the leakback and checking the spray pattern is also a good idea. If one or two spray holes are blocked then redex wont be able to get through to clean it or unblock it.
brave
One of my favourite phrases is “he who dares wins” (SAS motto), but would also add: sometimes looses!
🥸
Great video thanks
Cheers