I’m putting a new intake on my 302 and needed a refresher, this was perfect, Thank you! And thanks for being honest about the RTV on the gaskets! I first did that same Edelbrock manifold 15 years ago on a 5.0 HO roller block. The heads have a coolant passage at the rear. That Edelbrock intake doesn’t pass the coolant across to the opposite head like at the front of the block. Well after a decade the aluminum rotted and crumbled away. Electrolysis, like on a boat. There are intakes that accommodate the rear passage. Professional products makes one.
Love the hack with the 5/16 guide bolts (great idea)! Giving this a try this weekend as I am replacing the gaskets due to a small leak in the back/center of the manifold. It's most likely the 'cork' area but if I'm going to do all that, I might as well do all the gaskets. Love your videos...they are EXTREMELY helpful to recent classic Mustang owners like myself (bought a '67 convertible last year).
Just did this a few months ago! I'm having a little pooling down in those crevices on the water pump, but have been too lazy to pull it out and reinstall it right, but I think you've inspired me to do so, plus I have a guide now! Another great one, thanks!
Sorry to hear about your coolant issues, but like you said, hopefully this will help. Also, I redid my water pump and timing cover and that will be out in a few weeks, maybe there'll be some good info in there too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh yeah that sounds like just what I need! I'm in the process of running some new wiring around my engine bay. I'll probably be finishing that around the same time you're uploading the water pump and timing cover, then I can jump right into that. These cold months really slow me down, and make me realize I need a heater for my garage! Hopefully it'll be a little warmer for these bigger projects. Also what carburetor did you go with? I'm rocking a 650cfm Edelbrock AVS2 (Manual Choke) and that same performer rpm manifold, seems like we have similar tops ends! (If you're saving the carb reveal for an upload I'll be patient and wait for that, cause I know I'll be here to watch it!)
@@StankyPete9 These months slow me down too. I did a bunch of videos in Nov so they could be released in Dec and so I didn't have to be out in the cold. But all those videos have come and gone and I've had to be out there making more in the cold weather. I need a heater too. :) The new carb is coming on Thursday! :)
Hey, been watching your videos - commented on another one too. Wanted to let you know they are really, really good. You get right to the point, give the info we need, skip the stuff that is not worth watching... the camera shots are great, you esplain things weil, and I apprectiate even getting the part numbers !!
@@AndyKruseChannel well I won and lost today.. I lost 5 hours but I won the battle with the intake. Turns out mallets and crowbars were a better solution than a putty knife and happy thoughts.
Safety tip, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first. If you are wrenching on the positive post before disconnecting the negative, you have a chance of arcing to something with your wrench.
Glad it was helpful! I wish I could take credit for it, but it's something I saw someone else do and I immediately put that little trick in my pocket. :)
I like the trick with the 3M adhesive. I'll try that next time... It looks cold in there. I added a 1 ton mini split to my garage and it makes it a whole lot better when working in the garage in both winter and summer.
I wish I could take credit for that 3M stuff, but I saw someone else do it a long time ago. It was really cold in there when I filmed that, like below 20 degrees. I'd like to make the garage more habitable for both the winter and summer, but all my money is going towards the car. :)
You need to do like me. I live in the northeast and decided I didn’t want to see my breath anymore. Or not feel my fingers while I’m working on my car. Bought a mr heater 80k btu and ran a gas line up from my basement. It’s 65 in my garage in 15 minutes now, even if it’s in the teens outside. I’m working in a t-shirt. For less than 1000 bucks you to can be working in comfort.
Another great video Andy! I saw lots of back and forth debate when researching those cork gaskets. Since I had time, I went ahead and used Permatex Black to set the cork gaskets to the block, waited a day, then did the rest. This way the cork gaskets couldn't move around. I was too worried about the integrity of just sealant alone - what if I didn't build it up high enough to seal? So yeah, we'll see if it works, I'm still waiting until Spring to get my engine back in the car. Also, Alf's Garage taught me to not use the teflon tape on the temp sending unit, so heads up on that if you find your temp gauge isn't reading right. So appreciate your vids, keep up the great work!!!
Yeah, I saw one of Alf's recent videos and he didn't put teflon tape on the Temp Sending Unit, but it was after I made this video. I have since gone back and removed that tape, you'll be able to tell on future videos. It's one of those things I might try and mention when I do follow-up videos. :)
Another great video, you and I seem to be almost doing the same projects to our 66 fastbacks at the same time. I did my intake upgrades last summer, I went with a holley 600 cfm part#0-80458SA, and my car loves it! I also upgraded the cooling system at that time. Keep the videos coming
@@AndyKruseChannel aluminum 3 row radiator, hi flow aluminum water pump, new thermostat housing, and hoses, I added a trans cooler, ford racing intake, holley carb, higher flow fuel pump, I did black braided fuel lines for a race style look. Monte carlo bar, shelby style export brace, i did shelby air filter & shelby valve covers, upgraded the headlights to tri bar style halogen and upgraded the wiring harness. If you remember...we chatted before about wheels and tires I did 16s as well(torque thrust). The next hurdle is 4 wheel disc brakes & ill be doing the rear diff like you did on your coupe. I'd love to share pictures and ideas/info with you
@@nathannelson7020 Wow, that's a comprehensive list. Maybe I'm the one that should be saying that we're doing our projects at almost the same time. My contact info is on the "About" tab, a few pics of the car would be great!
I have a 68 cougar with the same C code 289, I’ve been thinking of switching it over to a4 barrel like this. Did you see much performance improvement with just changing the intake a carb. Great video, thanks.
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I’m not looking to build a race car, just something nice to cruise in that is reliable. I’ve done some research and from what I can find I don’t know if anyone makes a carb kit for a 2100 that will stand up to ethanol. Thats why I’m looking at switching to a 4 barrel. Also I did some head damage years back and have to decided if I want to fix the factory heads or switch to some aftermarket heads. The one nice thing with my car is it is all numbers matching so keeping it that way would be kind of cool. Changing out the heads could end up going down a really deep rabbit hole, but might be worth it in the long run. Thanks for the info.
I have a stock 351c 2v with headers that I put an aluminum edlebrock and a 650 cfm carb and it bogs at wide open throttle. But if u ease into its fine. Runs grate at idle and is good when cruising. But just no wide open.
It's likely too rich if you mash the pedal and it bogs. With the edelbrock it could be too small of rod or too large of jet, or some combo of both. There are edelbrock tables out there where it can help determine the rod size for your given application. Because of the step in the metering rod, you can dial in idle or cruising fuel flow, and then also pick a different diameter for WOT. Without know the specifics of your setup, it's tough to point you to a specific rod size, so you'll need to do a little digging there. :)
Nice video. Recently had this same manifold along with a 500cfm Edelbrock carb installed on my 66. I’ll be curious how adding headers improves performance.
Hey Andy I really do enjoy your videos they are very step by step for the average guy like me just getting into the Mustangs got the 66 with a stock 289 do you think the Edelbrock intake with a 600 Holley is too mucho for the stock 289 right now so I guess the question is the 600 CFM thanks very much
Thanks! I found that the 600 is probably the upper limit of a stock 289, you might find a little better performance with a 550 or even a 500 cfm unit. However, as you begin to upgrade parts and pieces, you may find that 600 is where you'll want to be. :)
Barely, but that is probably because this engine was tired and needed to be rebuilt. Most engine modifications to n/a engines are difficult to notice individually. It’s really the some of the parts that a difference can be noticed.
Great idea on the guide studs! How are those gaskets holding up? Any leaks? I know that Edelbrock says not to use that type of gasket, they suggest the fel-1250 if you are going to use fel-pro.
Little help. I installed the felpro 90103 gasket but and now have a little vacuum leak up front /left by the #1 cyl. Noticed instructions with gasket say no RTV on gasket but I see you used some. Did you get a vacuum leak? Also, I noticed you didn't use the cork gaskets for ends. Any particular reason? getting ready to redo and replace gasket and try again. Thank for the help, and love the videos. I've used a few of them.
Not sure why you're getting a vacuum leak, maybe retorque the bolts? There are some gaskets that are designed to not need some kind of sealant around the water ports, but I have not been successful without putting some sealant on. I do not believe I have any vacuum leaks, as irregular idling can be an easy indicator of leaks and my idle seems fine. The cork ends are designed to work for most cars, and they probably would have been fine, but that RTV I used guarantees an exact fit. :)
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams Are you referring to the that Elbow piece that comes out of the top-front corner of the Manifold, the one that would normally route the heater hose to the firewall for the heater core? Or maybe that adapter piece that the elbow threads into, that is threaded into the Manifold? If it's this adapter piece, it's a 1/2-14 NPT to 3/8-18 NPT adapter. :)
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
Awesome content 💯 I have 260 sbf I bought a performer for it and a 4bbl 1405 carburetor, im not sure if this carburetor is too much cfm for this little engine unfortunately i bought it used so cant return it, what would u suggest i can do without have to break the bank Thanks
The 1405 a lot of carb for the 260, but on the fuel side. The engine will only pull the air it needs, so a 1000 cfm carb would still work as long as the fuel is set correctly. You can put in large rods and smaller jets to to reduce the fuel, but in the end it might just be easier to pick a 500 cfm carb and sell that 600. :)
Would I need to use a spacer gasket or just use the single gasket that comes with the carb, I've seen.sometimes a plastic or rubber gasket to space it out and then add the gasket that supplied with the carburetor
@@sonnyskustoms If you use a phenolic (plastic) spacer, you need a gasket on either side. I prefer the common paper gaskets, but there are other materials out there. The important thing is each side of the spacer needs a gasket. If you don't use a space, just one gasket is needed between the carb and the intake manifold. :)
I definitely can cause issues, especially if there are several layers. I went back and took it off after this video, you'll be able to see it's not on there in later videos. Good eye!
Awesome video good sir. Would you mind sharing a couple thoughts on why you selected Edelbrock; this is not for debate just curious to know from your perspective. I’ve read great things about this I take relative to the Weiand intake (specifically not meshing well with the heads causing leaks). I’m getting ready to buy the intake and carb - think this Edelbrock carb with a 600 cfm Holley carb. Thoughts? Thanks!!
Thanks! Some of the parts I buy for my car are purely because of the budget. Sometimes I find decent parts on sale and go with them as it frees up money for other parts. In this case, I was able to get a brand new Edelbrock intake for 1/2 price. I was actually looking for a Weiand (I had one on my last car), but this deal came along and I jumped on it. The same with the Carb I put on in next week's video. The Carb was such a good price that I had to scoop it up. I haven't heard of any issues with intakes not fitting well, but sticking with the bigger brands will help ensure proper fit.
@@AndyKruseChannel that make sense for sure, thank you for sharing. Where do you get most of your deals from? Half off sounds wonderful! Also, have you found a radiator yet? I believe your last radiator install was a champion two-row with 1” tubes; I cannot find that model available anywhere. If you’re having the same issue, what else would you go with?
@@rjohnson6226 I find deals on Craigslist, Facebook, and Ebay. Also, sometimes a buddy is selling something, etc. I also have a bad habit of buying parts that I don't need right away, but I know I'll eventually need it, and if it's a good deal...... :) I have not found a radiator yet, but that's because it's lower on my list right now. I bought that Champion off Ebay, I believe it was the CC259 unit. I didn't do enough research to see if there was a better Rad than that Champion without it costing double. There are probably a handful of similar brands with just as good of units, but that Champion was a Champion, it worked great. Plus, when it came time to get an electric fan, finding a shroud that fit perfectly helped because Champion is a large enough brand that other companies make stuff to work with and fit the Champion Rads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the responses. I will keep my eye out! Not a lot of folks have had 3 mustangs (66’s at that!). So it’s good to hear some best practices from someone who’s done it a few times. Looking forward to your feedback on the performance of the intake.
For this video, I didn't have a custom unit yet, just the stock linkage. I later made one that was supposed to be adjustable, but it wasn't. Then I got around to designing my own which I have on my car and sell on my website: KruseBuilt.com 😀
What would happen if small debris went into the holes in the lifter valley? My son and i got the old intake off of the 289, and i asked him to clean off the old gasket. He has a thing about getting his hands dirty and sprayed the lifter valley with engine degreaser and cleaned the build up first. Then he scraped the old gasket material before i realized what happened. Can’t be mad at him for cleaning, i should have been more specific. I am not sure how much debris went in the holes, but i do know an entire can of degreaser was used.
Those holes in the lifter valley lead to the cam shaft and down into the oil pan. The likely scenario is that any large pieces fall down into the pan and sit there until you change the oil. There's a screen on the oil pump, so those piece shouldn't make into your oil system. If the debris is metal and lands on the cam shaft, it might get pinched in between the lifters and the cam lobe and scratch something, but that's a low possibility. You can always change the oil for piece of mind, but depending on the pieces size and location, it may just sit in the pan until you pull the pan off and clean it out. :)
I don't think it does. There is some hardware that comes with it, but not the four carb studs, nuts, and gasket. It also does not come with the intake gasket set, but you probably already knew that. :)
A few hours. The time consuming part is all the cleaning and prepping surfaces. Everything is pretty much a bolt-on operation, so that part of the swap goes fast. :)
in the end did you notice a pronounced difference in performance, and if you did, in what way, low end torque, accellereation, higher rpm gains at highway speeds?. i have a 1967 ford fairlane with a stock 289 2 barrel mated to a C4 trans. it has good pick up, will never be a race car but i often have enternained the thought of doing similiar modification. Is it worth the gain in performance ?
I have not had a chance to take the car out yet and see, we've still got snow out here. However, I had a very similar setup on my last Mustang and I was very happy with the increased "happiness" of the car. Once dialed in, the car felt like it had a little more Pep when you hit the go pedal. :) Unfortunately I think just upgrading the intake manifold is not enough of an upgrade to justify it. However, when coupled with an upgraded Carb and an exhaust, it's absolutely worth it. The small bump in power, response, and sound will put a smile on your face. You won't win any races that matter, but it kind of brings the car to life. :)
Hey Andy, I just bought this intake as well to switch to a 4 barell carb. Noticed the rear coolant ports get blocked off from this, have you noticed any heating issues? Or no problems?
I have not, in fact this motor is running cooler than my last car (assuming both gauges were working properly), so I have not had any issues. Granted, I don't put the kind of miles on this car like I do on my daily-driver, but so far it has not been an issue.
i would like to convert to a 4bbl on my 67 289. you can just swap the intake and carb and good to go? nothing else needs to be changed? heads, cam etc?
Correct. Upgrading the heads and cam will be complimented by the larger 4bbl carb and improved manifold you plan to install, but not required if you want to just do the carb and manifold. :)
Honestly, that's where it was when I was making the video. The important part is that everything lines up with where you started, in this case it was at 12 degrees so I wanted to put everything back together at 12 degrees. I marked it so it would align when I was done. Starting at zero is probably a better idea as you'd know that everything is starting at zero, but in this case I just needed everything to go back where it was when I started. :)
I’ve wondered that too but never used it. I was thinking it went in the block plug near the rear cork gasket location, but since I use the Gasket Maker stuff, it hasn’t been an issue.
@@AndyKruseChannel I just had an aluminum housing crack before reaching 12ft-lbs :/ One side was fine, other side crushed. Might have been a manuf fault.
Why can't somebody make a thermostat housing gasket that lines up with the freakin' holes.. That just amazes me.. I've tried 2 different housings, 4 different gaskets and not ONE of the damn gaskets line up with the holes.. IF the bolt holes line up, the bypass fitting is off by at least 1/3... If one bolt hole lines up and the bypass is right, the other bolt hole is off by at least 1/4.. THEN NONE of the gaskets cover the entire T-stat housing.. the outside angles are off... LUNACY!! I finally said screw it.. I made my own gasket.. 9mm shell cuts perfect holes for the bolts..
Hmmm So ur going to do this then that, but did u kno if u put 4 barrel heads on it would make a big difference, 2 barrel head don't run so well when u put a 4 barrel on it, yes it works to a point,
It’s nice to watch someone who works on their car , when it’s freezing in the garage. No fake acting, just nice work👍
It was really cold that day too! In fact, it's really cold out there again today, so I didn't do anything on the car.
I’m putting a new intake on my 302 and needed a refresher, this was perfect, Thank you! And thanks for being honest about the RTV on the gaskets! I first did that same Edelbrock manifold 15 years ago on a 5.0 HO roller block. The heads have a coolant passage at the rear. That Edelbrock intake doesn’t pass the coolant across to the opposite head like at the front of the block. Well after a decade the aluminum rotted and crumbled away. Electrolysis, like on a boat. There are intakes that accommodate the rear passage. Professional products makes one.
No problem, happy to help. :)
Love the hack with the 5/16 guide bolts (great idea)! Giving this a try this weekend as I am replacing the gaskets due to a small leak in the back/center of the manifold. It's most likely the 'cork' area but if I'm going to do all that, I might as well do all the gaskets. Love your videos...they are EXTREMELY helpful to recent classic Mustang owners like myself (bought a '67 convertible last year).
Awesome, it’s always great to hear people are able to pull some nugget off info from my video. 😁
I needed this video about 4 years ago when I ‘PAID’ a shop to do mine😩
If you ever want to get back in there, now you've got the video to get-r done. :)
Ohhh! I put an Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock 4 barrel carb, and Edelbrock valve covers on my first 65. Such a great product, and looked soooo good!
Yeah, I like their stuff too. :)
Just did this a few months ago! I'm having a little pooling down in those crevices on the water pump, but have been too lazy to pull it out and reinstall it right, but I think you've inspired me to do so, plus I have a guide now! Another great one, thanks!
Sorry to hear about your coolant issues, but like you said, hopefully this will help. Also, I redid my water pump and timing cover and that will be out in a few weeks, maybe there'll be some good info in there too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh yeah that sounds like just what I need! I'm in the process of running some new wiring around my engine bay. I'll probably be finishing that around the same time you're uploading the water pump and timing cover, then I can jump right into that. These cold months really slow me down, and make me realize I need a heater for my garage! Hopefully it'll be a little warmer for these bigger projects. Also what carburetor did you go with? I'm rocking a 650cfm Edelbrock AVS2 (Manual Choke) and that same performer rpm manifold, seems like we have similar tops ends! (If you're saving the carb reveal for an upload I'll be patient and wait for that, cause I know I'll be here to watch it!)
@@StankyPete9 These months slow me down too. I did a bunch of videos in Nov so they could be released in Dec and so I didn't have to be out in the cold. But all those videos have come and gone and I've had to be out there making more in the cold weather. I need a heater too. :)
The new carb is coming on Thursday! :)
Thanks for the video Andy. Honest. Legit. Inspire us to keep working on our cars.
I appreciate that!
Hey, been watching your videos - commented on another one too. Wanted to let you know they are really, really good. You get right to the point, give the info we need, skip the stuff that is not worth watching... the camera shots are great, you esplain things weil, and I apprectiate even getting the part numbers !!
Wow, thank you! I appreciate the support and feedback. It's also great to hear that you're able to pull some helpful info from my videos. :)
Great video and explainer! Admitting to the hurried mistake was worth it to avoid someone else making the same mistake later.
Absolutely! I really don't want anyone making that mistake, it could cause a lot of problems. :)
I think someone used liquid nails as a gasket maker on my manifold.. I'm envious of your easy removal
Yeah, it seems like we win some and lose some. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel well I won and lost today.. I lost 5 hours but I won the battle with the intake. Turns out mallets and crowbars were a better solution than a putty knife and happy thoughts.
Safety tip, always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first. If you are wrenching on the positive post before disconnecting the negative, you have a chance of arcing to something with your wrench.
Thanks for the heads up.
All engines deserve to breathe a little better ❤🔥😅
Truth. I've got a few more goodies to go with that. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel What carburetor ? Holley 570cfm Street Avenger ?, or will I have to wait to find out😉
@@gen1c8rs88 Patience is a virtue. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Patience is a tough "act" to follow😥
Great video! I'm totally stealing the glue the thermostat gasket trick. All these years of working on SBF I've never heard that one.
Glad it was helpful! I wish I could take credit for it, but it's something I saw someone else do and I immediately put that little trick in my pocket. :)
I like the trick with the 3M adhesive. I'll try that next time... It looks cold in there. I added a 1 ton mini split to my garage and it makes it a whole lot better when working in the garage in both winter and summer.
I wish I could take credit for that 3M stuff, but I saw someone else do it a long time ago. It was really cold in there when I filmed that, like below 20 degrees. I'd like to make the garage more habitable for both the winter and summer, but all my money is going towards the car. :)
You need to do like me. I live in the northeast and decided I didn’t want to see my breath anymore. Or not feel my fingers while I’m working on my car. Bought a mr heater 80k btu and ran a gas line up from my basement. It’s 65 in my garage in 15 minutes now, even if it’s in the teens outside. I’m working in a t-shirt. For less than 1000 bucks you to can be working in comfort.
I like your idea, but I think I'd rather throw $1000 at the car right now. :)
Another great video Andy! I saw lots of back and forth debate when researching those cork gaskets. Since I had time, I went ahead and used Permatex Black to set the cork gaskets to the block, waited a day, then did the rest. This way the cork gaskets couldn't move around. I was too worried about the integrity of just sealant alone - what if I didn't build it up high enough to seal? So yeah, we'll see if it works, I'm still waiting until Spring to get my engine back in the car. Also, Alf's Garage taught me to not use the teflon tape on the temp sending unit, so heads up on that if you find your temp gauge isn't reading right. So appreciate your vids, keep up the great work!!!
Yeah, I saw one of Alf's recent videos and he didn't put teflon tape on the Temp Sending Unit, but it was after I made this video. I have since gone back and removed that tape, you'll be able to tell on future videos. It's one of those things I might try and mention when I do follow-up videos. :)
Another great video, you and I seem to be almost doing the same projects to our 66 fastbacks at the same time. I did my intake upgrades last summer, I went with a holley 600 cfm part#0-80458SA, and my car loves it! I also upgraded the cooling system at that time. Keep the videos coming
That is awesome! What else have you done? I might need a few ideas. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel aluminum 3 row radiator, hi flow aluminum water pump, new thermostat housing, and hoses, I added a trans cooler, ford racing intake, holley carb, higher flow fuel pump, I did black braided fuel lines for a race style look. Monte carlo bar, shelby style export brace, i did shelby air filter & shelby valve covers, upgraded the headlights to tri bar style halogen and upgraded the wiring harness. If you remember...we chatted before about wheels and tires I did 16s as well(torque thrust). The next hurdle is 4 wheel disc brakes & ill be doing the rear diff like you did on your coupe. I'd love to share pictures and ideas/info with you
@@nathannelson7020 Wow, that's a comprehensive list. Maybe I'm the one that should be saying that we're doing our projects at almost the same time. My contact info is on the "About" tab, a few pics of the car would be great!
@@AndyKruseChannel I've been fortunate to be able to make good forward progress. I'll definitely shoot you some pics
I have a 68 cougar with the same C code 289, I’ve been thinking of switching it over to a4 barrel like this. Did you see much performance improvement with just changing the intake a carb. Great video, thanks.
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I’m not looking to build a race car, just something nice to cruise in that is reliable. I’ve done some research and from what I can find I don’t know if anyone makes a carb kit for a 2100 that will stand up to ethanol. Thats why I’m looking at switching to a 4 barrel. Also I did some head damage years back and have to decided if I want to fix the factory heads or switch to some aftermarket heads. The one nice thing with my car is it is all numbers matching so keeping it that way would be kind of cool. Changing out the heads could end up going down a really deep rabbit hole, but might be worth it in the long run. Thanks for the info.
great tip on the hole that you drill in the thermostat
t
Right! It's one of those little freebies I wish I knew 25 years ago.
What's to become of your original intake and carb Mr Andy?
Right now it's sitting in a box. Do you where it might find a good home?
@@AndyKruseChannel Alf's Mustang Garage is a great home and currently accepting donations 😉
I have a stock 351c 2v with headers that I put an aluminum edlebrock and a 650 cfm carb and it bogs at wide open throttle. But if u ease into its fine. Runs grate at idle and is good when cruising. But just no wide open.
It's likely too rich if you mash the pedal and it bogs. With the edelbrock it could be too small of rod or too large of jet, or some combo of both. There are edelbrock tables out there where it can help determine the rod size for your given application. Because of the step in the metering rod, you can dial in idle or cruising fuel flow, and then also pick a different diameter for WOT. Without know the specifics of your setup, it's tough to point you to a specific rod size, so you'll need to do a little digging there. :)
Nice video. Recently had this same manifold along with a 500cfm Edelbrock carb installed on my 66. I’ll be curious how adding headers improves performance.
Cool! Headers are coming soon. I have them, they're just not on the car yet. :)
Hey Andy I really do enjoy your videos they are very step by step for the average guy like me just getting into the Mustangs got the 66 with a stock 289 do you think the Edelbrock intake with a 600 Holley is too mucho for the stock 289 right now so I guess the question is the 600 CFM thanks very much
Thanks!
I found that the 600 is probably the upper limit of a stock 289, you might find a little better performance with a 550 or even a 500 cfm unit. However, as you begin to upgrade parts and pieces, you may find that 600 is where you'll want to be. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you very much for responding
Heck yes! Just got the same one for my 289
Nice! What carb are you going with?
@@AndyKruseChannel right now a 1406 but I have the sniper Eli on the shelf that will go on once I finish my safety list and get her running again.
@@DriveBreakFixRepeat70 I like the 1406. That Sniper will be fantastic, no more messing with the cold weather choke or mismatched jets and rods. :)
Thanks for the cool video. Did you notice much of a difference in performance after this?
Barely, but that is probably because this engine was tired and needed to be rebuilt. Most engine modifications to n/a engines are difficult to notice individually. It’s really the some of the parts that a difference can be noticed.
Great video Andy! I’m looking for a 2V carb for my 200. Let me know if you want to get rid of that 2100 carb.
Thanks!
I was thinking of putting it on Marketplace, I'm sure somebody would have a need for it.
@@AndyKruseChannel I’ll keep an eye out. Definitely interested.
EXCELLENT video, thanks!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great idea on the guide studs! How are those gaskets holding up? Any leaks? I know that Edelbrock says not to use that type of gasket, they suggest the fel-1250 if you are going to use fel-pro.
Gaskets are great, no problems or issues.
Little help. I installed the felpro 90103 gasket but and now have a little vacuum leak up front /left by the #1 cyl. Noticed instructions with gasket say no RTV on gasket but I see you used some. Did you get a vacuum leak? Also, I noticed you didn't use the cork gaskets for ends. Any particular reason? getting ready to redo and replace gasket and try again. Thank for the help, and love the videos. I've used a few of them.
Not sure why you're getting a vacuum leak, maybe retorque the bolts? There are some gaskets that are designed to not need some kind of sealant around the water ports, but I have not been successful without putting some sealant on. I do not believe I have any vacuum leaks, as irregular idling can be an easy indicator of leaks and my idle seems fine. The cork ends are designed to work for most cars, and they probably would have been fine, but that RTV I used guarantees an exact fit. :)
Good video thanks for showing the good and the bad!. One question do u know the size of the bushing for the heater hose fitting? 👍🏿
Thanks!
I need a little more help, which bushing are you referring to? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel the one that the heater hose goes to there was only 1 adapter or bushing where the water inlet housing is
@@Donny.C.wlWilliams Are you referring to the that Elbow piece that comes out of the top-front corner of the Manifold, the one that would normally route the heater hose to the firewall for the heater core? Or maybe that adapter piece that the elbow threads into, that is threaded into the Manifold? If it's this adapter piece, it's a 1/2-14 NPT to 3/8-18 NPT adapter. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes
If you install the manifold and the edelbrock carb instead of the stock parts will it be a big difference?
Yes, but my butt-dyno is not calibrated. I wish I would have had a chance to put the car on a real dyno before and after to see the gains, but I wasn't able to do that. You should notice a difference, but you won't be setting any land speed records with it. :)
Awesome content 💯
I have 260 sbf
I bought a performer for it and a 4bbl 1405 carburetor, im not sure if this carburetor is too much cfm for this little engine unfortunately i bought it used so cant return it, what would u suggest i can do without have to break the bank
Thanks
The 1405 a lot of carb for the 260, but on the fuel side. The engine will only pull the air it needs, so a 1000 cfm carb would still work as long as the fuel is set correctly. You can put in large rods and smaller jets to to reduce the fuel, but in the end it might just be easier to pick a 500 cfm carb and sell that 600. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you andy
Would I need to use a spacer gasket or just use the single gasket that comes with the carb, I've seen.sometimes a plastic or rubber gasket to space it out and then add the gasket that supplied with the carburetor
@@sonnyskustoms If you use a phenolic (plastic) spacer, you need a gasket on either side. I prefer the common paper gaskets, but there are other materials out there. The important thing is each side of the spacer needs a gasket. If you don't use a space, just one gasket is needed between the carb and the intake manifold. :)
@AndyKruseChannel awesome ok thank you sir
Cheers 🍻
Does the Teflon tape cause any issues with the sending unit? Bad connection to ground?
I definitely can cause issues, especially if there are several layers. I went back and took it off after this video, you'll be able to see it's not on there in later videos. Good eye!
only the sensor needs to make contact with coolant, not the threads
Awesome video good sir. Would you mind sharing a couple thoughts on why you selected Edelbrock; this is not for debate just curious to know from your perspective. I’ve read great things about this I take relative to the Weiand intake (specifically not meshing well with the heads causing leaks). I’m getting ready to buy the intake and carb - think this Edelbrock carb with a 600 cfm Holley carb. Thoughts? Thanks!!
Thanks!
Some of the parts I buy for my car are purely because of the budget. Sometimes I find decent parts on sale and go with them as it frees up money for other parts. In this case, I was able to get a brand new Edelbrock intake for 1/2 price. I was actually looking for a Weiand (I had one on my last car), but this deal came along and I jumped on it. The same with the Carb I put on in next week's video. The Carb was such a good price that I had to scoop it up.
I haven't heard of any issues with intakes not fitting well, but sticking with the bigger brands will help ensure proper fit.
@@AndyKruseChannel that make sense for sure, thank you for sharing. Where do you get most of your deals from? Half off sounds wonderful!
Also, have you found a radiator yet? I believe your last radiator install was a champion two-row with 1” tubes; I cannot find that model available anywhere. If you’re having the same issue, what else would you go with?
@@rjohnson6226 I find deals on Craigslist, Facebook, and Ebay. Also, sometimes a buddy is selling something, etc. I also have a bad habit of buying parts that I don't need right away, but I know I'll eventually need it, and if it's a good deal...... :)
I have not found a radiator yet, but that's because it's lower on my list right now. I bought that Champion off Ebay, I believe it was the CC259 unit. I didn't do enough research to see if there was a better Rad than that Champion without it costing double. There are probably a handful of similar brands with just as good of units, but that Champion was a Champion, it worked great. Plus, when it came time to get an electric fan, finding a shroud that fit perfectly helped because Champion is a large enough brand that other companies make stuff to work with and fit the Champion Rads. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the responses. I will keep my eye out! Not a lot of folks have had 3 mustangs (66’s at that!). So it’s good to hear some best practices from someone who’s done it a few times. Looking forward to your feedback on the performance of the intake.
What was the throttle linkage you used andy?
For this video, I didn't have a custom unit yet, just the stock linkage. I later made one that was supposed to be adjustable, but it wasn't. Then I got around to designing my own which I have on my car and sell on my website: KruseBuilt.com 😀
What would happen if small debris went into the holes in the lifter valley?
My son and i got the old intake off of the 289, and i asked him to clean off the old gasket.
He has a thing about getting his hands dirty and sprayed the lifter valley with engine degreaser and cleaned the build up first. Then he scraped the old gasket material before i realized what happened.
Can’t be mad at him for cleaning, i should have been more specific.
I am not sure how much debris went in the holes, but i do know an entire can of degreaser was used.
Those holes in the lifter valley lead to the cam shaft and down into the oil pan. The likely scenario is that any large pieces fall down into the pan and sit there until you change the oil. There's a screen on the oil pump, so those piece shouldn't make into your oil system. If the debris is metal and lands on the cam shaft, it might get pinched in between the lifters and the cam lobe and scratch something, but that's a low possibility. You can always change the oil for piece of mind, but depending on the pieces size and location, it may just sit in the pan until you pull the pan off and clean it out. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Once again, thank you
@@AndyKruseChannel NM
I hove forgot to do gasket maker to thanks for sharing.
It's the little things that bite us, hopefully you didn't have coolant everywhere like I did. :)
Just ordered my Edelbrock 2121 does the nuts and bolts and gasket not come with the intake manifold?
I don't think it does. There is some hardware that comes with it, but not the four carb studs, nuts, and gasket. It also does not come with the intake gasket set, but you probably already knew that. :)
How long did it take for you to do the intake and carb removal and install?
A few hours. The time consuming part is all the cleaning and prepping surfaces. Everything is pretty much a bolt-on operation, so that part of the swap goes fast. :)
in the end did you notice a pronounced difference in performance, and if you did, in what way, low end torque, accellereation, higher rpm gains at highway speeds?.
i have a 1967 ford fairlane with a stock 289 2 barrel mated to a C4 trans. it has good pick up, will never be a race car but i often have enternained the thought of doing similiar modification. Is it worth the gain in performance ?
I have not had a chance to take the car out yet and see, we've still got snow out here. However, I had a very similar setup on my last Mustang and I was very happy with the increased "happiness" of the car. Once dialed in, the car felt like it had a little more Pep when you hit the go pedal. :)
Unfortunately I think just upgrading the intake manifold is not enough of an upgrade to justify it. However, when coupled with an upgraded Carb and an exhaust, it's absolutely worth it. The small bump in power, response, and sound will put a smile on your face. You won't win any races that matter, but it kind of brings the car to life. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for that !
Hey Andy, I just bought this intake as well to switch to a 4 barell carb. Noticed the rear coolant ports get blocked off from this, have you noticed any heating issues? Or no problems?
I have not, in fact this motor is running cooler than my last car (assuming both gauges were working properly), so I have not had any issues. Granted, I don't put the kind of miles on this car like I do on my daily-driver, but so far it has not been an issue.
Tyler.. just got mine today.. how's yours working out for you??
Andy great video buddy 👍
@@scottbowling4575 Thanks!
i would like to convert to a 4bbl on my 67 289. you can just swap the intake and carb and good to go? nothing else needs to be changed? heads, cam etc?
Correct. Upgrading the heads and cam will be complimented by the larger 4bbl carb and improved manifold you plan to install, but not required if you want to just do the carb and manifold. :)
What is the O ring for that comes with the fel pro gaskets? The distributed?
I don't know, this kit might be made to fit a variety of Ford blocks, but I know that I have not needed it on all three of my Classic Mustangs.
@@AndyKruseChannel O-Ring is for the distributor shaft.
no teflon on the plugs or elbows?
Not sure what you mean, there's teflon tape on those pieces.
Please explain why u stabbed dizzy at 12° instead of 0°. I just did my timing gears and chain and put mine back at 0. Thanks
Honestly, that's where it was when I was making the video. The important part is that everything lines up with where you started, in this case it was at 12 degrees so I wanted to put everything back together at 12 degrees. I marked it so it would align when I was done. Starting at zero is probably a better idea as you'd know that everything is starting at zero, but in this case I just needed everything to go back where it was when I started. :)
Ok cool. Thanks for the reply. Love the vids btw 👍
The Fel-Pro Gasket package has the 2 end cork gaskets and an O-Ring. What is the O-Ring for?
I’ve wondered that too but never used it. I was thinking it went in the block plug near the rear cork gasket location, but since I use the Gasket Maker stuff, it hasn’t been an issue.
@@AndyKruseChannel That's where I figured it goes too. Just thought I'd ask. Great minds think alike! :o)
Distributor
Beautiful car
Thanks!!
How tight do you go on the bolts?
They say 14-16 ft-lbs is all that is needed. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I just had an aluminum housing crack before reaching 12ft-lbs :/ One side was fine, other side crushed. Might have been a manuf fault.
Groovy👍
Thanks!
I used chopsticks as guids 😅 but good tip 👍
That's a great idea when you're in a pinch. :)
Why can't somebody make a thermostat housing gasket that lines up with the freakin' holes.. That just amazes me.. I've tried 2 different housings, 4 different gaskets and not ONE of the damn gaskets line up with the holes.. IF the bolt holes line up, the bypass fitting is off by at least 1/3... If one bolt hole lines up and the bypass is right, the other bolt hole is off by at least 1/4.. THEN NONE of the gaskets cover the entire T-stat housing.. the outside angles are off... LUNACY!! I finally said screw it.. I made my own gasket.. 9mm shell cuts perfect holes for the bolts..
Yeah it too bad we have to struggle with the gaskets. 🙂
Nice 💪🐎🚗🔧👍💯🇺🇲
Thanks 👍
that coolant had rust in it.
Yep
Hmmm
So ur going to do this then that, but did u kno if u put 4 barrel heads on it would make a big difference, 2 barrel head don't run so well when u put a 4 barrel on it, yes it works to a point,
Ok