I was able to start my engine and break it in, I had a problem with the coolant, but other than that it all went good. I just went ahead and drilled a hole on the rod and called it a day. haha, my video would have lasted 1 minute hahaha. I do plan to make it look better, but for the time being it works. :)
Made basically this same setup a few years ago. Recently I swapped out the aged and oxidized aluminum tube for stainless tube that I got at ace hardware for a couple bucks. Taped it off before I cut it and put it in a drill to polish it out.
It's fun making parts like this from whatever we can find out there. It would have been nice to design this so it's adjustable, but it works for now. :)
Correct, but somebody removed that Kickdown linkage before I got the car, so it's not an issue. Plus, pretty soon I won't need to worry about that Kickdown linkage anyways. ;)
It was fun making a custom linkage. The down side is that if it ever needs to be longer, I'd have to get a new piece of tubing to go on the outside. :)
I appreciate you documenting the goofs along with everything else. I also like the "doing it yourself is fun" comment. Sometimes driving into the smorgasbord of extra parts is a more satisfying puzzle than just picking up that kit. There's a "reason" we save all those extra pieces. Plus an extra video this week!! I have the 1406 as well. Do you know why my fast idle would be slipping? Basically my set screw is in the correct place for the idle on the cam, but when it warms up the cam rotates and is in the wrong place on the next cold start. Are you going to have a carb tuning video? Can you show timing vs vacuum? Which is more accurate etc?
Thanks! Unfortunately it's hard to see what's happening on your Carb without actually seeing it. If I understand it correctly, if you blip the throttle before you start the car on the next cold start, the cam should drop down because the spring from the choke wants the choke to be in the closed position. If that is not happening, either your springs needs some love, or possibly the shaft is gummed up and is not moving freely? Again, it's hard to tell without seeing it. I've got a video coming up where I show how to adjust the idle mixture screws using a vacuum gauge, there will be a little info on the idle screws, maybe something there will help? :)
I view all of your U-Tube videos ..it is the best ones for 65 to 66 Mustang. You make it clear, simple to understand and very relatable to the weekend mechanic. Great job...keep it going!!
Previous to this set-up I used a lock washer to secure the linkage to the carburetor. But I never felt secure...thinking that it would yank off at the worst possible time in traffic. Now I have peace of mind and don't have to worry about it.
Looks good. The only thing I think I would change is putting an S shape bend in it and eliminating the back spacer. This setup puts some weird stresses on the bushing and fasteners. Putting a couple bends in it would also secure the tubing to the all thread and you could make it a bit shorter for adjustment without being loose
Andy you know they call that a custom throttle linkage and sell for $50 + dollars depending on who you order from. Good job. Everything can be obtained from your local hardware store.
Yes, but half of the fun is doing things yourself. I was a click away from buying essentially the same thing all ready to go, then I thought it would be more fun to make one.
thats the same throttle rod coming out of my firewall on my 65 gto and when I send pics to folks they say they've never seen it before. My engine is out and Im going with a 3 2s setup befor was 4106 but this is real close to mine great thanks!!!
@@AndyKruseChannel Yeh I didnt catch where did that bent bar you worked off come from? That might work for me, when I get my engine. Its been 15 months since I removed it waiting for pistons.
@@frekkledipped I think someone said that was the throttle linkage for cars with an automatic. Maybe something to do with the kickdown cable that Autos need?
@@AndyKruseChannel I just read that too, where did you get the bent piece? It looks interesting. I do like your custom one though and it doesnt look difficult to make after watching you
Since I made this video, I redid my throttle linkage so it's fully adjustable, and I sell it on my website. Part of the reason I did this is the price for the unit on Jegs is too high for the average hobbyist, considering how simple it is and basic parts. I know this doesn't help you now, but just in case things change down the road. :)
I had same issue. Found a one direction washer that locks in place once pressed on. Washer has little cuts on inside to create tabs that bind to the rod. Rather than double up the springs. Wouldn’t the short one be used for the front hole mount and the longer for the back hole mount. This might then create the same amount of spring response.
Great video 👍 I checked out your site lots of great looking stuff . The one item that I know is in demand is the Ford to Edelbrock carb Kickdown Rod adapter/linkage I just bought a AVS 2 to replace my 600 Holly and i seen some pretty crazy inventions none i care to duplicate . Edelbrock sells a cable kickdown bracket not a kickdown Rod bracket does your linkage Rod kits come with the plastic bushing at the pedal end ? I'm looking to pick one up from your site .
Andy, dumb question for you, but as someone who bought your throttle linkage kit and has an Edelbrock carb like the one here - how'd you drill out that hole to accept the larger bolts like those in your kit? Did you drill it out while it was mounted on the carb or is there an easy way to get that plate off and drill it out on the workbench?
Yes, I enlarged one hole on the side of the throttle lever to accept the 1/4" bolt. You can do this on the car, but it may be difficult to get the tiny metal shavings off your intake manifold, if that's important to you. Otherwise, you can pull the Carb off and drill it on your work bench, making for a cleaner install. :)
Thank you for the videos, watch every one. At the end of this video you connected return spring to manifold. Can I ask what size bolt that is? Previous owner of my 66 painted the holes shut.
Shoulda put the dog leg in the rod. It's in single shear at the arm. No jam nuts at rod ends ?? Also a bit of shrink tube over the all thread would have worked. My2cents.
Hey do you have a part number or any link for that throttle safety spring and bracket? I have installed the same exact intake and carb setup and would love the added safety
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the quick response, I’ll take a look down at the store and see if anything looks similar to that setup thanks for the videos man
I had an issue with my pedal hitting the floor, and I realized the rod connecting the throttle linkage and pedal was bent from being slammed against the firewall for 57 years. The rod is surprisingly easy to bend. So, I just bent it in the opposite direction by pulling it up to fix the issue.
I love little fixes like that. It's cheap and easy to do with immediate results. Plus, when you have that "light bulb" moment, you feel even better once you solve the problem and slay the dragon! :)
The linkage in this video is just a piece of 1/4-28 all-thread, with a piece of aluminum tubing around it. I never really liked the how I couldn't adjust it later without needing to trim down the length of the aluminum tubing on the outside. I later designed a new linkage, that is fully adjustable, and I sell it on my website. :)
Is there a reason why you didn't use the larger hole at the front of the linkage on the carb? Just need an adapter to fill the hole like the one on the bellcrank coming from the gas pedal, and just a little bit better leverage when mashing down on the "GO" pedal.
I gave this a like and subbed, but .. a bit of critique? You're obviously a personable, and likable guy, however, two thirds of this video was you doing things, and deciding you could do it better. Every fabricator, artist, musician etc. goes through a similar process, with everything they create. As one of those people, I can tell you; Nobody wants to watch the labor, they just want to meet the baby. Seriously tho, with the kindest intentions, I tell you this, please take no offense, as it's genuinely intended to help you keep people's attention. You almost lost me at draft #3, believe me, I don't need any video instruction on how to start over several times, I'm already S rank at that. Please, just let me believe you knocked it out of the park, no warm up lol, gives me something to aim for
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
I do these custom links to my Rc Trucks instead of spending a ton of money on already made ones off the shelf. Nice job!
Right on!
I was able to start my engine and break it in, I had a problem with the coolant, but other than that it all went good. I just went ahead and drilled a hole on the rod and called it a day. haha, my video would have lasted 1 minute hahaha.
I do plan to make it look better, but for the time being it works. :)
Congrats on getting it started.
Made basically this same setup a few years ago. Recently I swapped out the aged and oxidized aluminum tube for stainless tube that I got at ace hardware for a couple bucks. Taped it off before I cut it and put it in a drill to polish it out.
It's fun making parts like this from whatever we can find out there. It would have been nice to design this so it's adjustable, but it works for now. :)
The stock linkage u have is for auto trans. Thats why it is in a z shape. The z shape is what hits the downshift lever.
Correct, but somebody removed that Kickdown linkage before I got the car, so it's not an issue. Plus, pretty soon I won't need to worry about that Kickdown linkage anyways. ;)
The epic quest to get between 9 and 11 inches😆 the Scott Drake part would of saved you a bunch of time, but cool to see you made your own
It was fun making a custom linkage. The down side is that if it ever needs to be longer, I'd have to get a new piece of tubing to go on the outside. :)
Looks amazing. NOW STOP TEASING ME and let that engine RUNNNNN..........
Engine is running, can you hear it form here?
I appreciate you documenting the goofs along with everything else. I also like the "doing it yourself is fun" comment. Sometimes driving into the smorgasbord of extra parts is a more satisfying puzzle than just picking up that kit. There's a "reason" we save all those extra pieces. Plus an extra video this week!! I have the 1406 as well.
Do you know why my fast idle would be slipping? Basically my set screw is in the correct place for the idle on the cam, but when it warms up the cam rotates and is in the wrong place on the next cold start.
Are you going to have a carb tuning video? Can you show timing vs vacuum? Which is more accurate etc?
Thanks!
Unfortunately it's hard to see what's happening on your Carb without actually seeing it. If I understand it correctly, if you blip the throttle before you start the car on the next cold start, the cam should drop down because the spring from the choke wants the choke to be in the closed position. If that is not happening, either your springs needs some love, or possibly the shaft is gummed up and is not moving freely? Again, it's hard to tell without seeing it.
I've got a video coming up where I show how to adjust the idle mixture screws using a vacuum gauge, there will be a little info on the idle screws, maybe something there will help? :)
Great helpful video .. fabricated a linkage for my 66 fastback also.
Very cool!
I view all of your U-Tube videos ..it is the best ones for 65 to 66 Mustang. You make it clear, simple to understand and very relatable to the weekend mechanic. Great job...keep it going!!
Previous to this set-up I used a lock washer to secure the linkage to the carburetor. But I never felt secure...thinking that it would yank off at the worst possible time in traffic. Now I have peace of mind and don't have to worry about it.
@@russelluemura7532 Thanks for the feedback!
Looks good. The only thing I think I would change is putting an S shape bend in it and eliminating the back spacer. This setup puts some weird stresses on the bushing and fasteners. Putting a couple bends in it would also secure the tubing to the all thread and you could make it a bit shorter for adjustment without being loose
Yeah, this was what I could make with what I had available. I've got a new design coming soon. :)
Andy you know they call that a custom throttle linkage and sell for $50 + dollars depending on who you order from. Good job. Everything can be obtained from your local hardware store.
Yes, but half of the fun is doing things yourself. I was a click away from buying essentially the same thing all ready to go, then I thought it would be more fun to make one.
thats the same throttle rod coming out of my firewall on my 65 gto and when I send pics to folks they say they've never seen it before. My engine is out and Im going with a 3 2s setup befor was 4106 but this is real close to mine great thanks!!!
Right on!
Now you've got a video to show them about that throttle assembly. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yeh I didnt catch where did that bent bar you worked off come from? That might work for me, when I get my engine. Its been 15 months since I removed it waiting for pistons.
@@frekkledipped I think someone said that was the throttle linkage for cars with an automatic. Maybe something to do with the kickdown cable that Autos need?
@@AndyKruseChannel I just read that too, where did you get the bent piece? It looks interesting. I do like your custom one though and it doesnt look difficult to make after watching you
@@frekkledipped It was on the car when I bought it.
I ordered a jegs one for my 65 cutlass with an ls swap. I hope if fits good if not I will just use the ends and all thread as you did. Thanks.
Since I made this video, I redid my throttle linkage so it's fully adjustable, and I sell it on my website. Part of the reason I did this is the price for the unit on Jegs is too high for the average hobbyist, considering how simple it is and basic parts. I know this doesn't help you now, but just in case things change down the road. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks I wish I knew.
I had same issue. Found a one direction washer that locks in place once pressed on. Washer has little cuts on inside to create tabs that bind to the rod.
Rather than double up the springs. Wouldn’t the short one be used for the front hole mount and the longer for the back hole mount. This might then create the same amount of spring response.
Possibly, but putting the springs in the configuration they're in cleans up the area and looks less cluttered. :)
Looks good! I have a similar setup on my T5 equipped 65. Curious, what about your kickdown linkage?
Thanks!
The Kickdown lever was not on the car when I got it. But that's ok, this C4 isn't staying long. :)
Great video 👍 I checked out your site lots of great looking stuff . The one item that I know is in demand is the Ford to Edelbrock carb Kickdown Rod adapter/linkage I just bought a AVS 2 to replace my 600 Holly and i seen some pretty crazy inventions none i care to duplicate .
Edelbrock sells a cable kickdown bracket not a kickdown Rod bracket does your linkage Rod kits come with the plastic bushing at the pedal end ? I'm looking to pick one up from your site .
No, my kit does not come with that plastic piece as it's not required because of the spherical bearing in the Rod End of my throttle linkage. :)
Andy, dumb question for you, but as someone who bought your throttle linkage kit and has an Edelbrock carb like the one here - how'd you drill out that hole to accept the larger bolts like those in your kit? Did you drill it out while it was mounted on the carb or is there an easy way to get that plate off and drill it out on the workbench?
Yes, I enlarged one hole on the side of the throttle lever to accept the 1/4" bolt. You can do this on the car, but it may be difficult to get the tiny metal shavings off your intake manifold, if that's important to you. Otherwise, you can pull the Carb off and drill it on your work bench, making for a cleaner install. :)
I made the same kind of set up at ACE for $12 and that sure beats $60 plus shipping for linkage
Nice.
Thank you for the videos, watch every one. At the end of this video you connected return spring to manifold. Can I ask what size bolt that is? Previous owner of my 66 painted the holes shut.
Nice!
I believe that size is 5/16-18 thread. If that's too big, then it's a 1/4-20 thread. :)
Shoulda put the dog leg in the rod. It's in single shear at the arm. No jam nuts at rod ends ?? Also a bit of shrink tube over the all thread would have worked. My2cents.
Lol.
Edelbrock makes a throttle linkage extension kit to line that factory rod up
Great to know. :)
Hey do you have a part number or any link for that throttle safety spring and bracket? I have installed the same exact intake and carb setup and would love the added safety
I believe it was part of a throttle spring kit I bought at the auto parts store. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for the quick response, I’ll take a look down at the store and see if anything looks similar to that setup thanks for the videos man
I had an issue with my pedal hitting the floor, and I realized the rod connecting the throttle linkage and pedal was bent from being slammed against the firewall for 57 years. The rod is surprisingly easy to bend. So, I just bent it in the opposite direction by pulling it up to fix the issue.
I love little fixes like that. It's cheap and easy to do with immediate results. Plus, when you have that "light bulb" moment, you feel even better once you solve the problem and slay the dragon! :)
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Awesome man give me a good idea
Cool, I bet it will be better than the one I made. 😁
Good How-To. I would consider a jam nut on at least one heim.
Thanks!
The jam nut was on my list, but since they are not opposing threads, the rod ends can't come loose in the configuration that I have it in.
Lube (oil) before you die cut. You might need some jam nuts on the bottom of the rod ends!
They're not right and left hand rod ends, so jam nuts aren't needed because there's no way for this small assembly to come loose. :)
What type of throttle bar/cable was that?
The linkage in this video is just a piece of 1/4-28 all-thread, with a piece of aluminum tubing around it. I never really liked the how I couldn't adjust it later without needing to trim down the length of the aluminum tubing on the outside. I later designed a new linkage, that is fully adjustable, and I sell it on my website. :)
part numbers for the lokar kit?
Lokar part numbers are in the video. But there's a better option now, I sell a Throttle Linkage kit on my website - KruseBuilt.com :)
Is there a reason why you didn't use the larger hole at the front of the linkage on the carb? Just need an adapter to fill the hole like the one on the bellcrank coming from the gas pedal, and just a little bit better leverage when mashing down on the "GO" pedal.
You said it, I'd need an adapter. I didn't have one, I made due with what I had available.
I gave this a like and subbed, but .. a bit of critique? You're obviously a personable, and likable guy, however, two thirds of this video was you doing things, and deciding you could do it better. Every fabricator, artist, musician etc. goes through a similar process, with everything they create. As one of those people, I can tell you; Nobody wants to watch the labor, they just want to meet the baby.
Seriously tho, with the kindest intentions, I tell you this, please take no offense, as it's genuinely intended to help you keep people's attention. You almost lost me at draft #3, believe me, I don't need any video instruction on how to start over several times, I'm already S rank at that. Please, just let me believe you knocked it out of the park, no warm up lol, gives me something to aim for
Thanks for the info. You’ve got a lot of videos to catch up on. 🙂