Hey guys, that was enjoyable 😊, and yes, it did "creepy" at the end... Keep em coming boys, you are single handedly, lowering the "anxiety" level, of the average Joe, who wants wade into the lod car hobby. Many other TH-cam guys come off as pretty intimidating... Not you two though....
My experience with heads that have larger ports than stock, as found on my GT40 cast iron heads, is the lower portion of the intake gaskets got sucked into the port runners. Of course this caused a vacuum leak that caused me some grief until I pulled my Weiand Stealth intake and found the issue. I fixed the problem by finding intake gaskets that contain a metal reinforcement throughout the gasket. I also used a product called "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer on the cylinder head side of the gasket to keep the gasket from ever shifting. Don't use it on both sides of the gasket or you'll have a major issue pulling the intake off. FelPro has the reinforced gaskets for the ports size you'll need and Gasgacinch can be found at speed and cycle shops.
instead of using that anti sieze my i suggest using pipe dope instead . that will do 2 things A > it will keep the bolts from backing out. B> it will also help keep all fluids where it belongs . Besides that very nice job clean and specific info on the job with clear explanation of why,what and how it was done and the reason why it was so .
@@AutoRestoMod Looking forward to it. I'm tucking a 460 into my 71 Mach1, but I'm starting with the stock exhaust manifolds. As soon as I can spare $1100 I'm going to order a set of headers from Crites.
Good video guys. That's the first time I've seen the Valco tube gripper and it looks like a handy tool. Is yours the 2" wide 71416, or 2.5" wide 71006?
Hey guys! I used the studs on all four corners, Grade 8 with grade 8 nuts. I nixed the rubber china wall gaskets and it leaked in the rear, Just a tear drop or two, no big problem currently. Thanks for sharing.
When torqueing down intakes, should the bolt pattern be gone back though? Many times, as precaution, we have used a multi step torqueing. Seat, 15, then final, but find that rechecking after final shows inner more central bolts are not at final torque any longer?
I don't blame ya!!! I don't like stainless bolts either! Or Allen head .... Great video... love the channel long haul subscriber.. Still waiting on the Starilner Or......maybe an Edsel?.... Yep......one of those weirdos
We don't do that because it can be different on some cars. That info is out there on the net. For instance: performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/fordinstshtm-9424-302351w.pdf
@@AutoRestoMod I was referring to iron heads, but in either case, the 4 corner bolts should be not more than 15. The reason is that there is a gap between the intake and the heads with no support, which could crack the corners of the intake if over-torqued.
I would not have used stainless bolts. Totally unnecessary and only grade-2. Clear zinc grade-5 looks just fine. Gasgacinch is excellent around intake ports. The thin "China Wall" gaskets from Felpro (not cork) are excellent, and using Permatex or 3M weatherstrip adhesive works best on both sides. Will never leak, and so much easier to remove when necessary. No need for RTV there. I do like RTV around water jackets. I like your idea of the studs at the 4 corners for alignment. Torque should be 15 ft.-lbs. on the 4 corner bolts, and 25 ft.-lbs. on all the others
What type of gasket did you use, how thick is the gasket, are there certain gaskets made for certain applications? Such as putting an aluminum intake manifold on top of cast iron heads? None of these questions never get answered. I've watched a lot of videos and no one wants to answer those questions.👎
Industry standard is felpro. Gasket thickness isn’t critical. Especially because the silicone on the china wall will make up any difference. Everything is the same for iron and aluminum intakes. The only difference comes with aluminum heads because they have different torque specs for the intake
You don't need to have bolt studs. Just set your gasket on it, let that dry overnight, and it will stay in place when you drop, the mantle fall on simple as that use a brain.
Ive never seen anyone lay down RTV like a welding bead, great job!
Hey guys, that was enjoyable 😊, and yes, it did "creepy" at the end... Keep em coming boys, you are single handedly, lowering the "anxiety" level, of the average Joe, who wants wade into the lod car hobby. Many other TH-cam guys come off as pretty intimidating... Not you two though....
Thanks!
Nice video, I appreciate the tip on using studs to help guide. Nicely done!
Thanks!
Hi tom, I left my studs in all four corners with grade 8 bolts and nuts. Perfect threads left to mount my Dist coil to.
My experience with heads that have larger ports than stock, as found on my GT40 cast iron heads, is the lower portion of the intake gaskets got sucked into the port runners. Of course this caused a vacuum leak that caused me some grief until I pulled my Weiand Stealth intake and found the issue. I fixed the problem by finding intake gaskets that contain a metal reinforcement throughout the gasket. I also used a product called "Gasgacinch" gasket sealer on the cylinder head side of the gasket to keep the gasket from ever shifting. Don't use it on both sides of the gasket or you'll have a major issue pulling the intake off. FelPro has the reinforced gaskets for the ports size you'll need and Gasgacinch can be found at speed and cycle shops.
instead of using that anti sieze my i suggest using pipe dope instead . that will do 2 things A > it will keep the bolts from backing out. B> it will also help keep all fluids where it belongs . Besides that very nice job clean and specific info on the job with clear explanation of why,what and how it was done and the reason why it was so .
Great advice. I posted a video short of this last weekend. I'm surprised at the number of Ford people that don't use this technique.
Yep! I have one for headers too that I will post on Insta in the coming weeks.
@@AutoRestoMod Looking forward to it. I'm tucking a 460 into my 71 Mach1, but I'm starting with the stock exhaust manifolds. As soon as I can spare $1100 I'm going to order a set of headers from Crites.
Can i add the stud alignment bolts on a FE? I really appreciate your video's. It sure does help a novice like me
Great video. Love the music!
Thanks glad to hear it
stainless reaches is fatigue point without any sign and then your left with a mess.
Zactly. Those were provided by the owner with the intake.
Good video guys. That's the first time I've seen the Valco tube gripper and it looks like a handy tool. Is yours the 2" wide 71416, or 2.5" wide 71006?
2.5 wide. Funny the things that strike interest.
It struck my interest, too, Jeff.
What is the thing used for applying the RTV called and where can you get them . Thanks for the videos guys !!!
This is what I found,
Valco Cincinnati 71006 Tube-Grip 2.5" Industrial Size Dispenser
www.amazon.com/Valco-Cincinnati-Tube-Grip-Industrial-Dispenser/dp/B007IQ4XWK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=B1A1L7QT14YL&keywords=Tube-Grip+2.5%22+Industrial+Size+Dispenser&qid=1688136821&sprefix=tube-grip+2.5+industrial+size+dispenser%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1
Hey guys! I used the studs on all four corners, Grade 8 with grade 8 nuts. I nixed the rubber china wall gaskets and it leaked in the rear, Just a tear drop or two, no big problem currently. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome!
Jeff, ask Cam which wrist watch is the Swiss wrist watch....by the way, that's an orthopedic intake ...
I didnt notice how much torque to use, i am removing 3 duces and added a 4 barrel type
What is that tube squeezing tool that you were using for the sealant??
When torqueing down intakes, should the bolt pattern be gone back though? Many times, as precaution, we have used a multi step torqueing. Seat, 15, then final, but find that rechecking after final shows inner more central bolts are not at final torque any longer?
I will always run back through after a run in heat cycle.
What length studs do u use for dropping in the intake?
Typically I run 6 to 8 inches of all thread. Just didn't have any that day
I don't blame ya!!!
I don't like stainless bolts either!
Or Allen head ....
Great video... love the channel long haul subscriber..
Still waiting on the Starilner
Or......maybe an Edsel?....
Yep......one of those weirdos
Maybe some day. It has been a bucket list car for me.
8:21 oh ive had stainless bolts “never torque down” only to have them pop and then im having to reverse drill them out 🤦🏽♂️ your fear is valid
Yep. These were provided by the owner.
Torque specs and sequence would have been good important info
18 for aluminum heads, 25 for iron. Center out
@@doxnoogle5782 15 at the four corners, and 25 for all the others .
We don't do that because it can be different on some cars. That info is out there on the net. For instance:
performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/fordinstshtm-9424-302351w.pdf
@@AutoRestoMod I was referring to iron heads, but in either case, the 4 corner bolts should be not more than 15. The reason is that there is a gap between the intake and the heads with no support, which could crack the corners of the intake if over-torqued.
Real scary part about stainless is the galling.
Yes.
I would not have used stainless bolts. Totally unnecessary and only grade-2. Clear zinc grade-5 looks just fine. Gasgacinch is excellent around intake ports. The thin "China Wall" gaskets from Felpro (not cork) are excellent, and using Permatex or 3M weatherstrip adhesive works best on both sides. Will never leak, and so much easier to remove when necessary. No need for RTV there. I do like RTV around water jackets. I like your idea of the studs at the 4 corners for alignment. Torque should be 15 ft.-lbs. on the 4 corner bolts, and 25 ft.-lbs. on all the others
The bolts were at the request of the owner. I like the ide of the idea of weatherstrip adhesive too.
Is it possible to do an intake manifold swap on a 351w without having to remove the distributor?
No.
What ThirdGen said.
Eh, "Lent" "lint" same thing, right? 😆
Pretty much.
Old car hobby I meant damn it...
What type of gasket did you use, how thick is the gasket, are there certain gaskets made for certain applications? Such as putting an aluminum intake manifold on top of cast iron heads? None of these questions never get answered. I've watched a lot of videos and no one wants to answer those questions.👎
Industry standard is felpro. Gasket thickness isn’t critical. Especially because the silicone on the china wall will make up any difference. Everything is the same for iron and aluminum intakes. The only difference comes with aluminum heads because they have different torque specs for the intake
@@terranovnicek1567 thank you merry Christmas, happy new year 🎉
What’s up with the music?? Could have done without it.
I dunno, I think it is kind dry without a little music.
Really, do we need the music on an instructional video ?
Hey....we build firearms out of stainless. Just for thinking purposes only :)
@@lilorbielilorbie2496 Jeffs a really good friend and knows what I do...so it was intended a joke for him.
But do you torque them? 😂
@@AutoRestoMod Well yes...Ill see your foot pound and raise you an inch pound
You don't need to have bolt studs. Just set your gasket on it, let that dry overnight, and it will stay in place when you drop, the mantle fall on simple as that use a brain.
But I don't want to wait over night...