One of the better detailed explanations on the GM class 2 data bus network communication issues! Keep up the great work it’s techs like you who make a big difference in the success of the diyer’s jobs! Your contribution to moving humanity in a positive direction is greatly appreciated coming from a senior on a low budget suffering from cancer, I can’t thank you enough for your heart and from soul within the automotive tech world!!
I would not call this a bad ground, that would be due to corrosion, a broken wire, loose bolt, or the like. There was an engine swap and the folks who changed the engine simply forgot to attach the ground, AKA missing ground after maintenance created by lack of experience and no QC inspector checking their work and mechanics not taking notes while they are working on all the items that they removed to ensure it is reinstalled properly, a serious problem in this industry including the DIY community. Thanks for the case study, NICE. NEW Subscriber & thumbs up
This was one of the most informative and educational videos I've ever seen in my life and you're stating mundane obvious Sheldon Cooper noise? Why don't you just say thank you?
This is an awesome, meticulous video. I have the same issue Can Bus high at 10V. Working on an ABS/TCS on a 2006 Equinox. I’ve never needed a scope before, probably get one after this. How can I test this without a scope? Can I look at the breakout comb connector with a multimeter?
If you worked on gm's much at all you know about these ground faults,especially since the motor was changed,I would look for them ground wires were hooked up first and would save you alot of work
Not only does GM/Chevy use the cheapest materials & components from the darkest corners of the globe but they spent a good decade or two using said crap material components being grounded incorrectly & poorly on their trucks & suvs using their crap designs. My pos 2005 v6/4.3L reg cab, base model 2wd Silverado that I’ve replaced EVERYTHING ON including the engine & transmission, the fuel injection spider assembly, all sensors, connectors, radiator, fuses, wires, plugs, distributer, fluids, tools, tools & more tools, cheap scanner then to an expensive scanner, etc., etc., etc., .......on top of time spent researching info and sifting through the Chevy/Gm recalls & Chevy truck forums & don’t forget the countless hours watching & re-watching the TH-cam videos, and reaching out face to face when possible and then some more etc.,. Long story short. I gladly dropped $15k + on this $4k truck ($4k if in mint condition on a great day) in parts & whatnots over the past 2 years. Some parts were headliner, lights, center console lid, front bumper plastic air dam, etc. I’ve swapped everything out. It still has a miss on cylinders 6 & 3. Cylinder 6 more than cylinder 3. Now I’m looking at replacing the top end components (springs, lifters & rocker arms) to see if that corrects the issues. It’s currently blowing slight to super heavy and thick smoke (colors being: fluffy & light white to super thick white or super thick blue/grey/white) only when I put the trans in gear. Any gear. The electrical issues continue. And they change over time/with the seasons of the year. The info online sucks. It’s not a 1999 Astro Van. It’s a 2005, 4.3L V6 Base model, 2wd unicorn pos. I only say unicorn because it has power locks & manual windows with dual manual A/C “climate control”. It’s a cross breed crap shoot mix. VIN X by the way. 1GCEC14X55Z....... As much as I hate this truck and just want to take this thing out to s field, soak it in gasoline then set it on fire, shoot it multiple times while it’s on fire then piss on its ashes.....I just want to finish the damn project that I started and prove that it can be fixed and that I can fix it. Oh and I’ve also expanded (drilled out) the bolt hole on the distributor bracket to manually adjust the timing as was done circa 1910-1998. Good God!
Stuff like that is why I quit working on GMs and domestics in the mid-90s. Never owned one either, and won't. For my personal vehicle, I spent the money up-front and bought a Toyota Tacoma, and now I don't have to spend nights and weekends doing repairs, for the most part, the Toyota has been scheduled maintenance, and just get in it a drive. Oh, it's got 325K on the odometer.
@@hnd2893 Oh I hear you. I had a 98’ Camry that was seemingly indestructible. It got me a city/Hwy mixed average of 39 mpg. 4 door power everything. A total grandma car (was previously my good friend’s Grandmother’s garage kept grocery getter until she died.) It was a great car with power everything, tinted windows a cd & cassette deck player, automatic. Great car. I neglected maintenance on the oil leak and the piston blew out the side wall of the block one day driving home from work on a Texas summer afternoon. It was my fault 100%. The insurance on that car was $52 a month. Gas was nothing. Maintenance was an oil change every 5k miles. When we had our first kid (Camry still 100% functional) in 2016, I went to the Toyota Dealership and we bought a brand new (9 miles on the odometer) SR5 4x2 with third row seats and running boards. I paid it off early in June of 2020 (15 months early on the note) which didn’t help my credit if you can believe that shit. “They” want you to keep paying. Anyway, the 4 runner is awesome. Other than the seats being designed for a 160lb asian….. I have zero complaints. My wife drives it daily still. All I do is change the oil, & the tires & brakes etc as needed.
@@mattscott4387 Funny! Most couples that have a baby need a new car the next day :O) Make sure you do all the scheduled maintenance, like driveline fluids and filters, keep on top of the maintenance, and that Toyota will be around so you can hand it off to your kid for a first car. Keep an eye on the engine oil level between changes, and I usually recommend changing it before the recommended mileage is up, and use Toyota filters. These days the manufacturers are stretching the oil change intervals way out and claim synthetic oils will still protect the engine, but why risk it. Stay on top of any recall letters, and have the dealer check for software updates for any applicable system or control modules. Don't ever ignore the check engine light, especially for fuel control and coolant temperature codes.
@@hnd2893 Well the 4Runner gets Mobile1 Filters and oil every 10k miles. 20k mile filter & oil or not. I got just 1 “free oil change” out of the dealership. And after watching the dipshit 19 “Techs” let my doors slam into the Driver’s side & Passenger’s side masts on their in bay dealership lift, as they spent 45-70 minutes changing my oil, that was the one freebie I got with my purchase and it was the last fucking time I let a “Tech” work on one of my vehicles.
@@hnd2893 But keep in mind the 4Runner is my wife’s car and it’s paid off. I still have my 2005 V6 Chevy sitting in the driveway with a new engine & new tranny and new everything else. It’s now my fun project truck. My new truck is a 2022, F-350, 6.7L PowerStroke, 4 door, 4x4 that I bought in December 2021. Power everything, tinted windows, sprayed in bed liner, locking hubs, heavy duty rear end suspension with the front end leveling suspension kit. It’s not a bad truck. I still hate Ford. I didn’t and still don’t want this truck. I just hate Chevy now even more than I hate Ford. And the Dodge I wanted wasn’t available and the Dodge that was available was more than what I paid for this fucking truck. Which fyi was about $78,000 in December of 2021. And thats with the $5,000 add on to each and every & any vehicle on the lot at the time. From what I hear the lots are charging $10k-$15k instant add on prices now.
@@philh9238 that's correct . No used Global A modules through GM. However there is something called I/O Terminal that you could look into. It works really well on about 80 percent of the Global A modules. Just a note , we are now into Global B
That's awesome I have one at the job now with the same conditions, may be the same problem Thanks buddy
One of the better detailed explanations on the GM class 2 data bus network communication issues! Keep up the great work it’s techs like you who make a big difference in the success of the diyer’s jobs! Your contribution to moving humanity in a positive direction is greatly appreciated coming from a senior on a low budget suffering from cancer, I can’t thank you enough for your heart and from soul within the automotive tech world!!
My man thank you so much. I'm trying to repair a GMC RV that was struck by lightning This is super super harmful.
I would not call this a bad ground, that would be due to corrosion, a broken wire, loose bolt, or the like. There was an engine swap and the folks who changed the engine simply forgot to attach the ground, AKA missing ground after maintenance created by lack of experience and no QC inspector checking their work and mechanics not taking notes while they are working on all the items that they removed to ensure it is reinstalled properly, a serious problem in this industry including the DIY community. Thanks for the case study, NICE. NEW Subscriber & thumbs up
This was one of the most informative and educational videos I've ever seen in my life and you're stating mundane obvious Sheldon Cooper noise? Why don't you just say thank you?
Awesome video 07-20-2024 time 8:38pm.
This is an awesome, meticulous video.
I have the same issue Can Bus high at 10V. Working on an ABS/TCS on a 2006 Equinox. I’ve never needed a scope before, probably get one after this.
How can I test this without a scope? Can I look at the breakout comb connector with a multimeter?
As soon as he said engine swap, no comm i knew it had to be a ground issue lol hood find great trouble shooting 👏👏👍
I seem unable to find that breakout comb wire bundle On aeswave website. do you by chance have a part number for them?
Thank you
Great video
Great explanation
Yup! Thank you sir.
Great video, do you have a link /part number of the jumper harness you got to test the data line?
www.aeswave.com/uIsolate-Network-Isolator-p9669.html
😎♥️♥️♥️♥️I think you good master technician mecanic
excellent video thanks
Great video good explaining 👍🏽
If you worked on gm's much at all you know about these ground faults,especially since the motor was changed,I would look for them ground wires were hooked up first and would save you alot of work
Thank you very much
What software did you use for the printed drawings ? Good job on the video.
Please update for list of tools and links
Does anyone know what Mex means in my gm wiring diagram.
Good job mate
We’re can I find The diagram of the dlc bus connector?
Where can I get those wires for the splice pack?
@@dominickfrancois7944 aeswave.com
i think it will be better if you plug one by one of red cables instead of unplugin and plugin itback
Not only does GM/Chevy use the cheapest materials & components from the darkest corners of the globe but they spent a good decade or two using said crap material components being grounded incorrectly & poorly on their trucks & suvs using their crap designs. My pos 2005 v6/4.3L reg cab, base model 2wd Silverado that I’ve replaced EVERYTHING ON including the engine & transmission, the fuel injection spider assembly, all sensors, connectors, radiator, fuses, wires, plugs, distributer, fluids, tools, tools & more tools, cheap scanner then to an expensive scanner, etc., etc., etc., .......on top of time spent researching info and sifting through the Chevy/Gm recalls & Chevy truck forums & don’t forget the countless hours watching & re-watching the TH-cam videos, and reaching out face to face when possible and then some more etc.,. Long story short. I gladly dropped $15k + on this $4k truck ($4k if in mint condition on a great day) in parts & whatnots over the past 2 years. Some parts were headliner, lights, center console lid, front bumper plastic air dam, etc. I’ve swapped everything out. It still has a miss on cylinders 6 & 3. Cylinder 6 more than cylinder 3. Now I’m looking at replacing the top end components (springs, lifters & rocker arms) to see if that corrects the issues. It’s currently blowing slight to super heavy and thick smoke (colors being: fluffy & light white to super thick white or super thick blue/grey/white) only when I put the trans in gear. Any gear. The electrical issues continue. And they change over time/with the seasons of the year. The info online sucks. It’s not a 1999 Astro Van. It’s a 2005, 4.3L V6 Base model, 2wd unicorn pos. I only say unicorn because it has power locks & manual windows with dual manual A/C “climate control”. It’s a cross breed crap shoot mix. VIN X by the way. 1GCEC14X55Z....... As much as I hate this truck and just want to take this thing out to s field, soak it in gasoline then set it on fire, shoot it multiple times while it’s on fire then piss on its ashes.....I just want to finish the damn project that I started and prove that it can be fixed and that I can fix it. Oh and I’ve also expanded (drilled out) the bolt hole on the distributor bracket to manually adjust the timing as was done circa 1910-1998. Good God!
Stuff like that is why I quit working on GMs and domestics in the mid-90s. Never owned one either, and won't.
For my personal vehicle, I spent the money up-front and bought a Toyota Tacoma, and now I don't have to spend nights and weekends doing repairs, for the most part, the Toyota has been scheduled maintenance, and just get in it a drive. Oh, it's got 325K on the odometer.
@@hnd2893
Oh I hear you. I had a 98’ Camry that was seemingly indestructible. It got me a city/Hwy mixed average of 39 mpg. 4 door power everything. A total grandma car (was previously my good friend’s Grandmother’s garage kept grocery getter until she died.) It was a great car with power everything, tinted windows a cd & cassette deck player, automatic. Great car. I neglected maintenance on the oil leak and the piston blew out the side wall of the block one day driving home from work on a Texas summer afternoon. It was my fault 100%. The insurance on that car was $52 a month. Gas was nothing. Maintenance was an oil change every 5k miles.
When we had our first kid (Camry still 100% functional) in 2016, I went to the Toyota Dealership and we bought a brand new (9 miles on the odometer) SR5 4x2 with third row seats and running boards. I paid it off early in June of 2020 (15 months early on the note) which didn’t help my credit if you can believe that shit. “They” want you to keep paying. Anyway, the 4 runner is awesome. Other than the seats being designed for a 160lb asian….. I have zero complaints. My wife drives it daily still. All I do is change the oil, & the tires & brakes etc as needed.
@@mattscott4387 Funny! Most couples that have a baby need a new car the next day :O)
Make sure you do all the scheduled maintenance, like driveline fluids and filters, keep on top of the maintenance, and that Toyota will be around so you can hand it off to your kid for a first car.
Keep an eye on the engine oil level between changes, and I usually recommend changing it before the recommended mileage is up, and use Toyota filters. These days the manufacturers are stretching the oil change intervals way out and claim synthetic oils will still protect the engine, but why risk it. Stay on top of any recall letters, and have the dealer check for software updates for any applicable system or control modules. Don't ever ignore the check engine light, especially for fuel control and coolant temperature codes.
@@hnd2893
Well the 4Runner gets Mobile1 Filters and oil every 10k miles. 20k mile filter & oil or not.
I got just 1 “free oil change” out of the dealership. And after watching the dipshit 19 “Techs” let my doors slam into the Driver’s side & Passenger’s side masts on their in bay dealership lift, as they spent 45-70 minutes changing my oil, that was the one freebie I got with my purchase and it was the last fucking time I let a “Tech” work on one of my vehicles.
@@hnd2893
But keep in mind the 4Runner is my wife’s car and it’s paid off.
I still have my 2005 V6 Chevy sitting in the driveway with a new engine & new tranny and new everything else. It’s now my fun project truck.
My new truck is a 2022, F-350, 6.7L PowerStroke, 4 door, 4x4 that I bought in December 2021. Power everything, tinted windows, sprayed in bed liner, locking hubs, heavy duty rear end suspension with the front end leveling suspension kit. It’s not a bad truck. I still hate Ford. I didn’t and still don’t want this truck. I just hate Chevy now even more than I hate Ford. And the Dodge I wanted wasn’t available and the Dodge that was available was more than what I paid for this fucking truck. Which fyi was about $78,000 in December of 2021. And thats with the $5,000 add on to each and every & any vehicle on the lot at the time. From what I hear the lots are charging $10k-$15k instant add on prices now.
Where did you get that schematic at 4:13 ?
You had 10 volts on your ground at the map should scream bad ground.
Indeed
Does gm not allow programming used modules anymore if the vehicle is a global a? Tried doing one yesterday on a 2010 lacrosse wouldn’t go through
@@philh9238 that's correct . No used Global A modules through GM. However there is something called I/O Terminal that you could look into. It works really well on about 80 percent of the Global A modules. Just a note , we are now into Global B
Where do I find I/o terminal? What’s global b?
Who left the ground off?
The guys that put the engine in.