As a southerner, all that rust on a truck only 5 years old and under 100k makes me wanna cry. Before I started watching SMA, I had never heard of fluid film or even knew why it existed. Now I know.
First comment here. As a Texas boy, born and bred, I’m not accustomed to the catastrophic damage that we see on the under carriage of an otherwise nice truck. I’m always amazed at your patience with the problems, no cuss words and absolutely no thrown wrenches. This is the reason that I subscribed and watch every video WELL DONE SIR!
Right there with ya, I can barely believe how crusty and rusty a five year old vehicle he works on is. I have a 1993, 1999, 2003, and 2006, and every single one is in way better condition than this truck on the underside. Salt kills.
24:30 Got to love it when you repair broken wires for a single complaint, and after you return it to the customer they call up happy that some other unrelated stuff started working again
@Billy Hatchet Okay let me dumb it down for you. Steel is the main structural component of ALL cars. It's common knowledge that if you spray it with salt water and don't maintain it, it rusts. That's not an ''engineering'' thing.
@Billy Hatchet The grade of steel? hahahahahahahaha. You think high carbon steel rusts less? Not a metallurgist there are ya billy. The only cars that don't rust are because the owner maintains it. I drive a 96 Yukon and there is no rust. Steel lasts forever if you take care of it. Do I need to draw a picture for you?
I owned an auto repair shop for 41 years and your repair was spot on. All young techs should be shown this video as training to diagnose and repair an electrical problem. 👍👍👍👍👍
The idea of this truck in the scrap yard in five years is just amazing to me! My 26 yr old truck here in Western Oregon will live its life out as long as I take care of it and still want to drive it! No salty crusties here though. Todd the retired trucker.
The same here with my 18 year old Dodge Ram 2500 cummins. I was just under it today for my spring inspection. The underside is pristine I was under it for its oil change, fuel filter, transmission, transfer case and front and rear diff service. I did have to repair a couple wires going to the left rear door window switch in the rubber boot that goes from the B pillar to door but that a normal for that era Dodge. I go under to one thing I am constantly looking around for loose wires, anything leaking. I did find a lifetime NAPA shock leaking and I have the receipt so I pull it in the next week and take that in for NAPA to take care of it. Of course I save money as I do all the work myself and since I am retired I find anyway to save money.
Living in South Arkansas, I'm quite sure Snow Is a mythical creature that appears only 1-2 times a decade to close everything down and cause hundreds of wrecks per mile. We are talking 1-2 inches that might last 24-48hours.
This is why I love my 51 GMC half ton, no gizmos, just a AM radio for outside contact, can fix almost everything with a couple of screwdrivers , 1/2” , 9/16” wrench and hammer.
I'm originally from Nova Scotia, Canada and the roads were covered with salt in the winter. After 1.5 hours of driving in the winter there was a thick covering of salt from the door handles down. When I purchased a new vehicle I would get it rustproofed / undercoated before bringing it home. I made a huge difference in the life of the vehicle. I now live out west where they use very little salt and there is minimal rust damage after 15 years without rustproofing. I purchased a new 2018 F150 and I could see rust forming on the underside of the truck after just two years. Many of the parts under the truck were unpainted, or the coating was so thin that it provided almost no protection. I can only imagine how corroded the underside of the vehicle would be if I lived in the rust belt. Thank you for the video. It was very interesting.
I use a LAN tone and probe kit a few times a week for finding the green crusties. It's an audible tone rather than a beeper that speeds up like that you used. You mentioned that the whole harness acts like an antenna. Here's a top tip! What I do is apply the tone generator between the wire and ground, then the next step is the important one for success: Ground the other end of the wire! That makes sure you get a full voltage drop across the crusties, otherwise the signal just goes straight on through the crusties. In "busy" harnesses, it's usually best to apply the tone generator at the end you think the fault will be closest to. This also helps minimise signal transfer to other wires.
Okay I see. That would make sense when you're looking for an open and there is that possibility of it being a high resistance from a giant pile of green crusties. Duly noted I will revisit this 👍
Thanks Simon, will give this method a try. In this case. the fuse would be pulled, circuit grounded at the fuse box. And the signal injected at the chassis module connector, since that end had some questionable areas.
I feel certain all vehicles built today no matter brand or country they are from are junk! Poor investment from the get go. A man on another channel I watch summed it up as just a matter of what brand of junk do you want to work on. You do a great job of taking it in stride have a great day.
Mrs. O: We come here for the auto repair, but we stay for the marital banter. 35:12 - Eric, my Cherokee has an actual pull-out headlight switch. When's the last time you've seen one of THOSE? lol
Ex-'phone company here, cable pair identification works great on a balanced pair yes, but on a car where most if it isn't they're pretty much useless. Saying that I think this did its job, forcing Eric O to survey the whole length of the wiring loom, but a banana would've worked just as well.
Agreed! 35 year telecom guy here . The old school method is the best in this situation. I still use my buttset for troubleshooting complex VHF radio systems. No dB meter for me.
Hey Eric, just wanted to give you a big thanks for helping me continue to improve my fledgling electrical diagnostic skills. Recently worked on a car that had developed a dead misfire on one cylinder. Using your troubleshooting tips I was able to narrow it down to no ground on injector #3. Wiring diagram showed all the injectors' ground wires joined together before going to the ECU harness, so with a good ole' visual inspection was able to check the section of harness that #3's ground wire was located in and found the break in the wire along with several other wires that were severed or almost severed. Turns out the owner had accidentally sliced into the wiring harness while installing aftermarket audio equipment. Couldn't have done it without your help!
She's a lovely woman for you man, actually brings me hope that she knows exactly what's going on and understands exactly what you mean and yet plays it off like the internet is full of decent humans. I hope y'all are doing quite well out there, and thank you for being a rarity
@@petermclaren7276 you are correct, born in Edinburgh (the maternity ward in Hawick was full when my mother went into labour), raised in Hawick but now live in Selkirk these days.
Born in the north, worked in a dealership and a indy shop and came to HATE salt on roads. I'm in the south now. Being able to remove exhaust bolts in a 10-year old car is still mind-bowing
Sure glad I live a salt free state! I've scrapped one car at 20 years old with zero rust and my 33 year old F250 farm truck has light surface rust on the frame! Now if my Chevvy Cruze ever stops leaking coolant life would be perfect..:). I love how Mrs O delivers sarcasm when she tells you how impressed she is.. Mrs F does the same, it keeps us humble.
Funny part is that the detector actually did find the break. ;) When you were going along the plastic tubing, it got faster, then just stopped. The spot where it beeped the fastest is the open end of the wire. If you look at the video, you were right next to that opening in the tubing where you found the crusties, when the beeping got fast, then stopped. But yes, there is definately a fair amount of finesse to get used to those things and to get them to be more easily usable. Back-up eyeballs always do the trick. Best, as always.
I noticed that too. I’ve never used a tracer like that, but I thought it was definitely trying to tell him something. Either way he made short work of turn diagnostic and repair.
It’s always interesting to see how a professional mechanic goes about the troubleshooting process to find the problem. Unbelievable frame rust on that vehicle.
@@BigJohn4516 It isn't limited to Chev. I have a 2018 F150 with the all aluminum body. Guess what? The frame is very rusty, and very similar to this chev. I am on the east coast as well, up in canada, and the salt is brutal on everything.
Farm vehicles get exposed to moisture, mud, road dirt moved by tires at high speeds, etc. year round. Add the low (er) metal protection used by vehicle makers and there’s the answer. My only Ford product 2008 Mariner SUV, mid western urban life, rusted frame and components by 2018. 10 years. Just inadequate Ford engineering. Never again, Ford.
@@Rhaman68 Growing up in Mass it was a part of life. Before Fluid Film it was bar and chain oil mixed. Fluid Film doesn't last as long but it's easier to work with and smells much better.
I had a 81 F150, no start in my driveway one morning. Called a tech who comes to you. Fuel pump wasn't turning on. Got er fixed up. Over the next 7 years 5 more break downs, everywhere he probed the wiring harness he poked a hole in the wire insulation and one by one they all corroded. Canada lots of salt. Taught me a lesson
"They come to see me, but hope to see you..." Nothing better than the two best things in the world at once... working on a car, and seeing a beautiful woman. You've done very well. On the soldering topic, I've switched over to crimp connectors that include a built in piece of solder. You crimp the connection initially, then melt the solder piece and surrounding shrink wrap in one go. Like all things, there are people that swear by these types of connectors, and others that swear *at* them. Personally, I think they're great. Oldest one I have in use is now five years old, and still works fine. Edit: Dang, all I had to do was play one minute more of the video, and I'd see you're using something very similar. The only difference is the ones I use have a place to crimp them, too.
Once again I'm so incredibly thankful that I live in Arizona. I have a trailer that's been mostly unpainted for years and it has nothing more than surface rust.
We do love a Mrs O sighting now and then. Your eyes have to have scratches in the corneas from rust and dirt. I used to get mad at dirt and bit of rust but after watching your conditions you work in I never do now. In Colorado the rust is not nearly as bad. Nice work.
You are right...we like what you do but look forward to seeing and hearing the wife!! She is funny but also right on most of the time. A true partner in crime!!
As a mechanic in the earlier stages of owning my own garage. I learn so much to put in my arsenal from you Eric. Thanks for making these awesome videos
I had one of those tracing tools back in the 90s and they were pretty effective on cars then, that didn't have too many wires and the wires had thick insulation. Modern cars have many more wires in the looms and they are thinner and as such the signals couple with eachother more and render the tools less effective. I find it incredible they put so much electronics below the floopan. GMC must have a lot of confidence in the waterproofing of those modules and connectors. You'd think they'd want them inside somewhere dry.
It's not thinner insulation. It's the fact so many items share the same ground wire. So image you are trying to trace a wire that is powering something like a light bulb that power & ground side are constantly connected. The signal ends up traveling down every wire connected to that ground wire.
Sometimes it's just time to call it on the harness. I work for an open pit Iron mine. We have so much mud the harness rubs on the corrugated wire loom and cuts the wires. We struggled until we found out we could purchase a complete harness relatively cheap and spend 4-5 hours to be trouble free for many more years.
I used to build concrete pumpers for years and we ALWAYS used solder and heat shrink. Tons of vibration on them. If we had an area that needed a crimp, it had the built in dielectric grease and heat shrink. 👍 If we nicked a wire, we would run a new wire from front to back but that's harder to do with a car lol.
WOW !!!! What a diagnosis and repair of a seemingly impossible to find issue.. Just goes to show that your patience and perseverance pays off. GREAT JOB.
Yes, I work for the phone company and yes I can reliably find opens and shorts using a toner. It takes a little time to get to know your tools. While you can hear a signal on neighboring wires in time you will be able to discern the difference between crosstalk and the primary signal. Use your toner more often. The more you use it the more useful it will become.
A little story here from Michigan but left back at 10 years old. From Hawaii to California But last 50 years in Texas. When you put them up on lift the first thing that hits me is the rust. Crap I knew the salt played big part in this but being away for so long I guess I forgot. Lol Don’t see that rust and rotten underneath them here. No wonder you are so good working with computers on these it’s just common over there. Wish you had your business around San Antonio Texas. Keep up the awesome work.
Your findings are why I am more willing to diag and repair my own vehicles. To many sloppy hacks out there and the dealers are extremely guilty of that.
Eric, you are an inspiration. I know you probably won't see this, maybe Mrs. O will. You're videos are the most honest POV of working in the life of an everyday mechanic I have seen.(other than all the rust, good lord the rust I see on your channel is terrifying). Yeah that device is shotty. Even the Dynatech's the power company uses for underground big boy wires are never accurate. I am contracted with Pacificorp in Utah running a Vac Truck and even the stupid expensive Dyna's suck. I would love to see a collab with Rainman Ray if that would every be possible. He's my other go to of no nonsense Honest repairs. You guy's have inspired hundreds of thousands if not millions to tackle their own vehicles instead of forking out their own hard earned money for sometimes simple repairs. Keep at it. Love ya from afar!
Eric, you should bring a dozen of 'couch engineers' that comment on youtube. Give them a similar truck with unknown wire problems. Get them to diagnose and fix the problem. You, sit on a chair/couch with a beer(s) on your hand and critique them continuously, let see how they like it. You do it your way, they can do it their way. Everybody happy. Cheers
My Idaho farm truck is a 1999. I'm going to get another 20 years out of her. My newest 'pig' is an '07. Hoping it will be the last truck I ever own. Thanks, Eric. Great vid.
What ever works for each person is what they should go with! I am with you solder and heat shrink. I kept a couple of roles of the good ole 60/40 it never let me down.
I've been on all sides of the debate. For many many years it was twist solder and shrink. Then I was told that on boats it should be crimp because solder would make the wire stiff and it would break from vibration (what about salt water?). Then I found the solder and seal connectors and have been pretty happy with them. But all in all, solder and shrink has never failed on me.
I have always wondered how effective the wire tracers would be on a auto. You have answered that question for me in spades. As always you are a genius! Loved the video.
Yeah I almost bought one about ten years ago and one look at the price for it and I said no thanks as I still have the scope on a rope and back probes that will do the same thing along with the 4 eyes I have, glasses and eyes work well for the past 45 plus years I worked on vehicles and aircraft
I had one back in the late 70's early 80's and they were even junk then.. Far less wiring and wire insulation that would all fade to a yellow/white, so chasing was a mother.. But yeah, even with few wires in the harness they were junk.
Also, you can use a miliamps test to locate a break in a wire if you know which one you want to check. Old school electrical trounleshooting is faster once you know the techniques. Trouble is, learning them takes time and effort...something people have no "time for" in our "instant gratification" society.
I've used those signal tracers during my career not only in automotive applications, but also in industrial controls settings where there were large wiring trunks, and I had the exact same experience as you described. The signal is induced onto the other wires in the harness and will lead you on a wild goose chase. It takes quite a bit of practice and playing with the sensitivity on the receiver. I've also use some where you can attenuate the signal on the transmitter side as well and that can be helpful. Bottom line: They can be helpful when used with a little practice but are not as good as advertised.
@@SocketSilver And the twisted pair structure of network cabling is used specifically to reduce cross-talk between the pairs, to the signal induction is minimized. Maybe as cars & trucks become rolling networks it's time for manufacturers to start wiring them like networks and not the same way they built cars in 1970.
I've been where you were on this truck, I used to work for the WVDOH, and when I started, the wiring harnesses were maybe 6 to 8 wires going to the back. SRIC equipment is the worst, being in salt almost constantly from November to April. On the older stuff, we would completely rewire the beds and spreader box harnesses about every two years. I've seen more green crusties than I care to remember. Our biggest problem was somebody that would take a test light and probe the wire every 6 to 12 inches until they found the problem. then they would repair it leaving all the puncture in the insulation of the wire. A few days later it was back to what it was before, only all along the wire.
I know you have said many times cars don't last much more than10 years where you are Eric, and I have seen 10 year old rust buckets on your videos, however I can't recall seeing a 5 year old video with holes where the rust has already gone straight through the metal! I am so glad we do not put salt in the snow areas we have in Australia. If you were a mechanic here, you would be working on as many 50 year old vehicles through to new vehicles as you wanted to. There are older vehicles than that, quite a lot actually. It is crazy Americans would tolerate such a situation, the vehicles would want to be cheap when new, that's all I can say!!
I like how you always tell it as it is. Thank you:) Old homeschool DIY car mechanic trying to keep up with the times. Just got my first diagnostic tool because my old Dodge Ram Minivan didn't have a OBD port or computers that died in 2021 with over 300,000 miles. Now that I have a 2008 Chevy Cobalt LS 4-door 2.2L, now it's time for this old fart DIY car mechanic to go back to school. lol
Good thing for bad service exploration work, it enables you to find the right spot and see the crusty wires that were never sealed properly !!! Good diagnosis and repair, Eric. Nice of Mrs. O. to visit and add her 2 cents. And Luna the kitty always has a good word about you whenever you call her name - love it !!!!! On to the next one !!!!!! 😀😺
Eric, solder joint connectors are perfect, used in aircraft production for many years, though not twisted, just inserted then soldered with a heat gun, if it’s good enough for the FAA and for me to put my stamp on. That’s fine by me.
Only issue I have here is the use of non-lead solder in the low temp solders. It will unfix itself eventually so I treat that solder option like I do a bare crimp - it's going to fail so expect it. 60/40 or go home on my work.
I was thinking of fixing my jeep wiring harness with these. Not critical wiring, but in an area that needs to be small. It doesn't help that every used door harness has been made poorly and damaged with normal use already. I've played with them before and they seem to make a decent joint, which is already protected with heat shrink. The biggest issue might be that you can only find the cheaper chinese pieces online.
@@leebarnes655 Dear Armchair warrior I believe you’re missing the issue here. It wouldn’t matter if you replaced the wire end to end and coated it with Harry Potters magic spell. Honestly the truck has reached its limits of use for its location.
@@adobedoug2564 They still are unacceptable for repairing wires. Environmental splices are used for that. There are of course some connectors that have wires soldered into them, but for wiring repairs, you are not soldering them.
I have a fox and hound type tool too, and I was never able to make it work for me. And your splices are good to go. I know you have been doing this a long time and you would know what splices work and what don't work. No callbacks when you splice, there's the proof. Another great job. A human broke wire sniffer. 🔧🔧🔧
I atoned for my wiring sin thanks to you, a video you made some time this year showed you repairing a pigtail using your soldering iron... I had put a new pig tail on my old truck that the old one had corroded up using wire nuts and electrical tape.... after seeing your video I bought a nice new butane soldering kit and some shrink wrap... it's done properly now. Thanks for your videos, you help more than you know.
At the end of the day you have to do what works for you and your customer, reaching that conclusion can go a few different ways this one worked out for you. almost forgot I used one of them tracing things a few times I can never get it to work right and always ended up doing it by hand, you have such a knowledge base on this good job!
That detector reminds me of the powered test light that was popular a number of years back. You didn't need a ground- touch the probe to the copper wire or terminal and your other hand to any metal part of the car- if it beeped and flashed you had voltage. Great! BUT the voltage could be going though greenies that won't carry enough current to do any work- like operate a trailer light which was what I was usually trying to repair.
I use both the wire tracer and peepers and paws... good job eric.... I think you should get into dowsing.... You definitely have a gift for it sir. always love your video's... when I grow up I am gonna do mechanical video's too!.
Dear Eric, I have viewed and enjoyed many of your videos but I have not left too many comments here. Having said that, when you used solder vs. crimp-on terminals, you really made the day for an old-school retired 42 year veteran electrician/master electrician who started working in the mining locomotive industry and moved on to be an electrician, technician, technical training instructor and then retired as the manager of a technical training department for a major US transportation company. People who never wired some type of vehicle harness prior to crimpable connectors just don't get soldering. . . . . Thanks for making my day! That was an awesome repair and I'm very qualified to make that statement. Take Care, Tom K, aka, Tom the Fossil
Mr O, I always tell people that it is better to be pissed off then to be pissed on. It works for me and *Thank You* for the entertainment and educational content in your videos. They are greatly appreciated. 👍
Fox and hound, I use it to track where the wire goes. Plus you can find the wire in a connector of wires easily without pulling the diagram. For example, abs harness. plug the tool into one of the speed sensor wires, go to abs module and find out where its at in the connector in a matter of like 2 minutes. Helpful if you don't have a connector diagram or don't want to spend the time pulling it. If the wire is almost completely broken (or green crusty connected), they seem to still transmit through the wire.
as Teddy said: “It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.”
I met a guy from Tibet with a similar beep beep tool and the magical words he would say with the tool was, "do you love me?" And, the beeper would become very sensitive. Worked every time.
Love the videos Dr. O. Watched many and love the careful pragmatic approach to the problem. My project car has a mechanical issue, likely caused by something electrical (old OBD1), and I’m approaching it with a “What would Dr O do?”
@@lalitoojos Yep. Rust on the bumpers and just starting on the bed over the wheels. Had the door bottoms fixed. Other than that, it's been amazingly reliable. Original owner.
As an Aircraft and Power plant mechanic. Fancy word for a guy that fixes aircraft. I’ve seen wires and in aircraft’s you can only do so many repairs and they have to be fixed over a certain length of the wire. I always fixed the wire and heat shrieked then put it through a smaller conduit then added it back to the bundle. A lot more work but made me sleep better at night knowing I fixed it good with no possible cross circuit issues. I didn’t want to cause a plane wreck. If I seen anything close to that bundle I would have had a heart attack. Lol nice find. I never used those beeping machines to find a broken wire. Too many large loads inside them for that to work. Just look for areas where they been fixed or they are bent.
The body and engine compartment looks pretty good. It’s just the frame that’s all rusted out. So GM knows how to rustproof, they just choose not to do it on the frames of these pickups.
I was thinking the same. I'm from CT and was and this looks worse than my 1990 f250 that came from NY and has 360k on it. But as I understand it GM still doesn't bother to paint their frames. They just wax them which doesn't hold up.
You should try 'solder sleeves' for your harness wire repairs. They're basically a piece of transparent heat-shrink sleeve with a ring of solder inside. You push the two stripped wires in either side and use a small butane torch or electric heat gun on them. The solder melts to make the joint and the sleeve shrinks all in one go. The good thing about them is that the sleeve also has hot-melt adhesive inside which make the finished joint waterproof and also provides some strain relief for the wires as well. They're a win win win...
Your commentary at the end about modules and gauges has convinced me to continue driving my m2005 Lesabre. And most of you that read this comment probably know what engine that has.
In my Subaru EVERYTHING is on the inside, even the brake lines. I've never needed to replace more than the last 6" of any brake line. I've never had a wiring problem. (Though I did need to replace a rotted fuel tank)
I think you should get a pair of those water divining rods and walk past the car on the lift until they start to quiver. Then cut the harness right there and do the money shot. The people would absolutely loose their mind !!!
Eric, I was a John Deere mechanic, that tool will find the problem every time. Find out how it works, it has a way to point you in direction to problem, excellent tool, not at toss off.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
As a southerner, all that rust on a truck only 5 years old and under 100k makes me wanna cry. Before I started watching SMA, I had never heard of fluid film or even knew why it existed. Now I know.
You’re right Mr. O we come here to see a little bit of you but we really come here to see Mrs. O and what she’s cooking today❤️
First comment here. As a Texas boy, born and bred, I’m not accustomed to the catastrophic damage that we see on the under carriage of an otherwise nice truck. I’m always amazed at your patience with the problems, no cuss words and absolutely no thrown wrenches. This is the reason that I subscribed and watch every video WELL DONE SIR!
Right there with ya, I can barely believe how crusty and rusty a five year old vehicle he works on is. I have a 1993, 1999, 2003, and 2006, and every single one is in way better condition than this truck on the underside. Salt kills.
It’s called editing 🫥
I agreed no f word, which is fine. That’s why I enjoy watching and learning
No swear words direct but I find it funny the words you chose to hide the real swear words!!
Looks like it would be better ergonomically to splice alll those wires to drop the truck and use a creeper.
It's nice to see you working on newer vehicles.
The reason WHY you are working on newer vehicles is terrifying.
24:30 Got to love it when you repair broken wires for a single complaint, and after you return it to the customer they call up happy that some other unrelated stuff started working again
Eric ain’t lying… Mrs O is such a mystery. She only shows just enough to make it even hotter. Ontop it all she can Cook!!!‼️
As a Southerner, the amount of rust on a 2017 model is terrifying
Between the snow the cold and the rust, it's not very smart to live in the North.
😂 🤷♂️
@Billy Hatchet Yeah they should make the whole car out of plastic.
@Billy Hatchet Okay let me dumb it down for you. Steel is the main structural component of ALL cars. It's common knowledge that if you spray it with salt water and don't maintain it, it rusts. That's not an ''engineering'' thing.
@Billy Hatchet The grade of steel? hahahahahahahaha. You think high carbon steel rusts less? Not a metallurgist there are ya billy. The only cars that don't rust are because the owner maintains it. I drive a 96 Yukon and there is no rust. Steel lasts forever if you take care of it. Do I need to draw a picture for you?
Once you got under that truck, I was thinking you meant 2007 not 2017. Holy rust belt Batman!
You my friend are truly the official rust belt wire whisperer.
nice to see the lovely Mrs O out in the shop, solder solder solder and plenty of heat shrink action
I owned an auto repair shop for 41 years and your repair was spot on. All young techs should be shown this video as training to diagnose and repair an electrical problem. 👍👍👍👍👍
You’re right start with the simple things first. As Eric says, powers and grounds first.
😂😂😂😂 ese pendejo del eric de puro milagro encontró la falla!!
Ni siquiera sabe usar el short finder!!😂😂😂😂
This reminded me a lot of your video called "Don't Be A Dirtbag Mechanic - Take A Little Pride In Your Work" from September 20, 2019
The idea of this truck in the scrap yard in five years is just amazing to me! My 26 yr old truck here in Western Oregon will live its life out as long as I take care of it and still want to drive it! No salty crusties here though. Todd the retired trucker.
The same here with my 18 year old Dodge Ram 2500 cummins. I was just under it today for my spring inspection. The underside is pristine I was under it for its oil change, fuel filter, transmission, transfer case and front and rear diff service. I did have to repair a couple wires going to the left rear door window switch in the rubber boot that goes from the B pillar to door but that a normal for that era Dodge. I go under to one thing I am constantly looking around for loose wires, anything leaking. I did find a lifetime NAPA shock leaking and I have the receipt so I pull it in the next week and take that in for NAPA to take care of it. Of course I save money as I do all the work myself and since I am retired I find anyway to save money.
Living in South Arkansas, I'm quite sure Snow Is a mythical creature that appears only 1-2 times a decade to close everything down and cause hundreds of wrecks per mile. We are talking 1-2 inches that might last 24-48hours.
This is why I love my 51 GMC half ton, no gizmos, just a AM radio for outside contact, can fix almost everything with a couple of screwdrivers , 1/2” , 9/16” wrench and hammer.
I'm originally from Nova Scotia, Canada and the roads were covered with salt in the winter. After 1.5 hours of driving in the winter there was a thick covering of salt from the door handles down. When I purchased a new vehicle I would get it rustproofed / undercoated before bringing it home. I made a huge difference in the life of the vehicle. I now live out west where they use very little salt and there is minimal rust damage after 15 years without rustproofing. I purchased a new 2018 F150 and I could see rust forming on the underside of the truck after just two years. Many of the parts under the truck were unpainted, or the coating was so thin that it provided almost no protection. I can only imagine how corroded the underside of the vehicle would be if I lived in the rust belt. Thank you for the video. It was very interesting.
I use a LAN tone and probe kit a few times a week for finding the green crusties.
It's an audible tone rather than a beeper that speeds up like that you used.
You mentioned that the whole harness acts like an antenna.
Here's a top tip!
What I do is apply the tone generator between the wire and ground, then the next step is the important one for success:
Ground the other end of the wire!
That makes sure you get a full voltage drop across the crusties, otherwise the signal just goes straight on through the crusties.
In "busy" harnesses, it's usually best to apply the tone generator at the end you think the fault will be closest to. This also helps minimise signal transfer to other wires.
Okay I see. That would make sense when you're looking for an open and there is that possibility of it being a high resistance from a giant pile of green crusties. Duly noted I will revisit this 👍
Thanks Simon. Great tip!
Would like to know more on how to use a tone generator
Sounds like good info. I’d like to see a vid because I’m not sure exactly how this would be done.
Thanks Simon, will give this method a try. In this case. the fuse would be pulled, circuit grounded at the fuse box. And the signal injected at the chassis module connector, since that end had some questionable areas.
He's right! This viewer loves his knowledge of cars, yet he is right: You just light up that shop, Mrs. O!
Don’t forget to remove the new batteries from the probe thingy so you can use them in something more useful. Thanks for the video.
Those energizers tend to leak, I’d pull them-
@@Dirtyharry70585 Cannot say much for Duracell. Have a pack of 10 year AA batteries. Half of them corroded on the negative end within a year.
Yes. AND I'm surprised that tester sat for as long as it did without being damaged by battery leakage
I feel certain all vehicles built today no matter brand or country they are from are junk! Poor investment from the get go. A man on another channel I watch summed it up as just a matter of what brand of junk do you want to work on. You do a great job of taking it in stride have a great day.
Mrs. O: We come here for the auto repair, but we stay for the marital banter.
35:12 - Eric, my Cherokee has an actual pull-out headlight switch. When's the last time you've seen one of THOSE? lol
Ex-'phone company here, cable pair identification works great on a balanced pair yes, but on a car where most if it isn't they're pretty much useless. Saying that I think this did its job, forcing Eric O to survey the whole length of the wiring loom, but a banana would've worked just as well.
I can just see him using a Sidekick. Retired Ma Bell 15 years ago.
😂😂
As an active cable tech.. these wire tracers are absolute rubbish. Pretty much common sense is the only thing that works.
Agreed! 35 year telecom guy here . The old school method is the best in this situation. I still use my buttset for troubleshooting complex VHF radio systems. No dB meter for me.
😁
Hey Eric, just wanted to give you a big thanks for helping me continue to improve my fledgling electrical diagnostic skills. Recently worked on a car that had developed a dead misfire on one cylinder. Using your troubleshooting tips I was able to narrow it down to no ground on injector #3. Wiring diagram showed all the injectors' ground wires joined together before going to the ECU harness, so with a good ole' visual inspection was able to check the section of harness that #3's ground wire was located in and found the break in the wire along with several other wires that were severed or almost severed. Turns out the owner had accidentally sliced into the wiring harness while installing aftermarket audio equipment. Couldn't have done it without your help!
He does help me a lot too Ben working on vehicles from the age of 13 and you learn a lot from younger techs 68 now and still working 6 days a week
Seems like installing aftermarket audio equipment is a major cause of wiring problems!
We stand on the shoulders of giants.
If Eric O keeps forgetting his hat, I'm going to have to start wearing shades to watch SMA! 😎
GM,s finest candle wax coated frame.
"Enhance, unenhance."
That never gets old. Makes me chuckle every time.
Another awesome fix. A tip-o-the-hat to your skill set.
And, yes, we come to see Mrs. O, not you.😀
She's a lovely woman for you man, actually brings me hope that she knows exactly what's going on and understands exactly what you mean and yet plays it off like the internet is full of decent humans. I hope y'all are doing quite well out there, and thank you for being a rarity
Here in Scotland we appreciate your translations for aluminium and solder, you sir are a man of culture.
Aye that we do. Next he'll be spelling tyres with the y rather than an i 😂
@@Teribus13 With a user name like yours, you must come from Hawick. My mother’s home town. Safe Oot, Safe in
@@petermclaren7276 you are correct, born in Edinburgh (the maternity ward in Hawick was full when my mother went into labour), raised in Hawick but now live in Selkirk these days.
Born in the north, worked in a dealership and a indy shop and came to HATE salt on roads. I'm in the south now. Being able to remove exhaust bolts in a 10-year old car is still mind-bowing
Sure glad I live a salt free state! I've scrapped one car at 20 years old with zero rust and my 33 year old F250 farm truck has light surface rust on the frame! Now if my Chevvy Cruze ever stops leaking coolant life would be perfect..:). I love how Mrs O delivers sarcasm when she tells you how impressed she is.. Mrs F does the same, it keeps us humble.
Funny part is that the detector actually did find the break. ;) When you were going along the plastic tubing, it got faster, then just stopped. The spot where it beeped the fastest is the open end of the wire. If you look at the video, you were right next to that opening in the tubing where you found the crusties, when the beeping got fast, then stopped. But yes, there is definately a fair amount of finesse to get used to those things and to get them to be more easily usable. Back-up eyeballs always do the trick. Best, as always.
Like the channel
The detector actually found shit.
I noticed that too. I’ve never used a tracer like that, but I thought it was definitely trying to tell him something. Either way he made short work of turn diagnostic and repair.
It’s always interesting to see how a professional mechanic goes about the troubleshooting process to find the problem. Unbelievable frame rust on that vehicle.
Chevy truck frames of that vintage disintegrate pretty quickly up here. The goo the factory puts on just speeds the process.
All of the truck are rust out that is a shame that they can't build a good truck there All junk
@@BigJohn4516 It isn't limited to Chev. I have a 2018 F150 with the all aluminum body. Guess what? The frame is very rusty, and very similar to this chev. I am on the east coast as well, up in canada, and the salt is brutal on everything.
This happens to every vehicle in the rust belt unless you fluid film the undercarriage religiously every year.
@@BigJohn4516 I spend most days working these rust belt crusties. Needle scaling and rockers. Its a dirty job but it pays well.
Wild how only 5 NY winters turned that frame into a science experiment. Seasonal Fluid Film application should be taught in Junior High.
Farm vehicles get exposed to moisture, mud, road dirt moved by tires at high speeds, etc. year round. Add the low (er) metal protection used by vehicle makers and there’s the answer. My only Ford product 2008 Mariner SUV, mid western urban life, rusted frame and components by 2018. 10 years. Just inadequate Ford engineering. Never again, Ford.
@@Rhaman68 Growing up in Mass it was a part of life. Before Fluid Film it was bar and chain oil mixed. Fluid Film doesn't last as long but it's easier to work with and smells much better.
I had a 81 F150, no start in my driveway one morning. Called a tech who comes to you. Fuel pump wasn't turning on. Got er fixed up. Over the next 7 years 5 more break downs, everywhere he probed the wiring harness he poked a hole in the wire insulation and one by one they all corroded. Canada lots of salt. Taught me a lesson
Twist + Solder + heat shrink has never failed me.
"They come to see me, but hope to see you..." Nothing better than the two best things in the world at once... working on a car, and seeing a beautiful woman. You've done very well.
On the soldering topic, I've switched over to crimp connectors that include a built in piece of solder. You crimp the connection initially, then melt the solder piece and surrounding shrink wrap in one go. Like all things, there are people that swear by these types of connectors, and others that swear *at* them. Personally, I think they're great. Oldest one I have in use is now five years old, and still works fine.
Edit: Dang, all I had to do was play one minute more of the video, and I'd see you're using something very similar. The only difference is the ones I use have a place to crimp them, too.
Once again I'm so incredibly thankful that I live in Arizona. I have a trailer that's been mostly unpainted for years and it has nothing more than surface rust.
We do love a Mrs O sighting now and then. Your eyes have to have scratches in the corneas from rust and dirt. I used to get mad at dirt and bit of rust but after watching your conditions you work in I never do now. In Colorado the rust is not nearly as bad. Nice work.
*HI MRS. "O"!!!* 👋👋👋
*GOOD TO SEE YA!!!*
😉👍
You are right...we like what you do but look forward to seeing and hearing the wife!! She is funny but also right on most of the time. A true partner in crime!!
As a mechanic in the earlier stages of owning my own garage. I learn so much to put in my arsenal from you Eric. Thanks for making these awesome videos
I had one of those tracing tools back in the 90s and they were pretty effective on cars then, that didn't have too many wires and the wires had thick insulation. Modern cars have many more wires in the looms and they are thinner and as such the signals couple with eachother more and render the tools less effective.
I find it incredible they put so much electronics below the floopan. GMC must have a lot of confidence in the waterproofing of those modules and connectors. You'd think they'd want them inside somewhere dry.
built ion obscelesence
Only built well enough to get past the warranty!
Yeah! Looks like GM needs to use thicker wire in their looms!
Why? Then u won’t need to replace that expensive part as often…that’s the money maker…
It's not thinner insulation. It's the fact so many items share the same ground wire. So image you are trying to trace a wire that is powering something like a light bulb that power & ground side are constantly connected. The signal ends up traveling down every wire connected to that ground wire.
Sometimes it's just time to call it on the harness. I work for an open pit Iron mine. We have so much mud the harness rubs on the corrugated wire loom and cuts the wires. We struggled until we found out we could purchase a complete harness relatively cheap and spend 4-5 hours to be trouble free for many more years.
Watching work like this makes me glad I work on radios. That harness is several shades of no!
I used to build concrete pumpers for years and we ALWAYS used solder and heat shrink. Tons of vibration on them. If we had an area that needed a crimp, it had the built in dielectric grease and heat shrink. 👍
If we nicked a wire, we would run a new wire from front to back but that's harder to do with a car lol.
truth brother
WOW !!!! What a diagnosis and repair of a seemingly impossible to find issue.. Just goes to show that your patience and perseverance pays off. GREAT JOB.
Yes, I work for the phone company and yes I can reliably find opens and shorts using a toner. It takes a little time to get to know your tools. While you can hear a signal on neighboring wires in time you will be able to discern the difference between crosstalk and the primary signal. Use your toner more often. The more you use it the more useful it will become.
Eric, your teachings in the dying art of troubleshooting is encouraging. Please keep up the great work and keep sending down your pearls of wisdom.
A little story here from Michigan but left back at 10 years old. From Hawaii to California But last 50 years in Texas. When you put them up on lift the first thing that hits me is the rust. Crap I knew the salt played big part in this but being away for so long I guess I forgot. Lol Don’t see that rust and rotten underneath them here. No wonder you are so good working with computers on these it’s just common over there. Wish you had your business around San Antonio Texas. Keep up the awesome work.
Another Ninja Master wire diag. and fix. I'm always impressed Eric. Thanks for showing us what you love to do and Mrs. O too.
Your findings are why I am more willing to diag and repair my own vehicles. To many sloppy hacks out there and the dealers are extremely guilty of that.
Eric, you are an inspiration. I know you probably won't see this, maybe Mrs. O will. You're videos are the most honest POV of working in the life of an everyday mechanic I have seen.(other than all the rust, good lord the rust I see on your channel is terrifying). Yeah that device is shotty. Even the Dynatech's the power company uses for underground big boy wires are never accurate. I am contracted with Pacificorp in Utah running a Vac Truck and even the stupid expensive Dyna's suck. I would love to see a collab with Rainman Ray if that would every be possible. He's my other go to of no nonsense Honest repairs. You guy's have inspired hundreds of thousands if not millions to tackle their own vehicles instead of forking out their own hard earned money for sometimes simple repairs. Keep at it. Love ya from afar!
We use salt in Michigan but that is just insane a 2017 is rotted like that.
Eric, you should bring a dozen of 'couch engineers' that comment on youtube. Give them a similar truck with unknown wire problems. Get them to diagnose and fix the problem. You, sit on a chair/couch with a beer(s) on your hand and critique them continuously, let see how they like it. You do it your way, they can do it their way. Everybody happy. Cheers
My Idaho farm truck is a 1999. I'm going to get another 20 years out of her. My newest 'pig' is an '07. Hoping it will be the last truck I ever own.
Thanks, Eric. Great vid.
What ever works for each person is what they should go with! I am with you solder and heat shrink. I kept a couple of roles of the good ole 60/40 it never let me down.
I've been on all sides of the debate. For many many years it was twist solder and shrink. Then I was told that on boats it should be crimp because solder would make the wire stiff and it would break from vibration (what about salt water?). Then I found the solder and seal connectors and have been pretty happy with them. But all in all, solder and shrink has never failed on me.
I have always wondered how effective the wire tracers would be on a auto. You have answered that question for me in spades. As always you are a genius! Loved the video.
Yeah I almost bought one about ten years ago and one look at the price for it and I said no thanks as I still have the scope on a rope and back probes that will do the same thing along with the 4 eyes I have, glasses and eyes work well for the past 45 plus years I worked on vehicles and aircraft
I had one back in the late 70's early 80's and they were even junk then.. Far less wiring and wire insulation that would all fade to a yellow/white, so chasing was a mother.. But yeah, even with few wires in the harness they were junk.
Also, you can use a miliamps test to locate a break in a wire if you know which one you want to check. Old school electrical trounleshooting is faster once you know the techniques. Trouble is, learning them takes time and effort...something people have no "time for" in our "instant gratification" society.
Wow, green crud everywhere. Good job. Release it and hope for the best.
Really enjoyed Eric comparing the weight of melons,visual representation ,when referring to tank halves😂😂
I've used those signal tracers during my career not only in automotive applications, but also in industrial controls settings where there were large wiring trunks, and I had the exact same experience as you described. The signal is induced onto the other wires in the harness and will lead you on a wild goose chase. It takes quite a bit of practice and playing with the sensitivity on the receiver. I've also use some where you can attenuate the signal on the transmitter side as well and that can be helpful. Bottom line: They can be helpful when used with a little practice but are not as good as advertised.
Even as an electronics tech. I tend to agree.
They work great for network cabling. The big difference is a network cable has only 4 pairs of wire. So it’s a lot easier.
Same experience using it in a harness. We wire guided forklifts where one wire is in the floor and it works great for finding the break
@@timdeibler4 I agree that in some applications they're the best possible tool to use.
@@SocketSilver And the twisted pair structure of network cabling is used specifically to reduce cross-talk between the pairs, to the signal induction is minimized. Maybe as cars & trucks become rolling networks it's time for manufacturers to start wiring them like networks and not the same way they built cars in 1970.
You're right, we watch what you're doing in hopes that Mrs O will come out and help/comment! You r a lucky guy
I've been where you were on this truck, I used to work for the WVDOH, and when I started, the wiring harnesses were maybe 6 to 8 wires going to the back. SRIC equipment is the worst, being in salt almost constantly from November to April. On the older stuff, we would completely rewire the beds and spreader box harnesses about every two years. I've seen more green crusties than I care to remember. Our biggest problem was somebody that would take a test light and probe the wire every 6 to 12 inches until they found the problem. then they would repair it leaving all the puncture in the insulation of the wire. A few days later it was back to what it was before, only all along the wire.
TERMINATED, is what they should have been. 🙄😬
Pretty sure your the only real channel on TH-cam. All others are click bait and lies. Love your channel! Very informative and fun to watch.
I know you have said many times cars don't last much more than10 years where you are Eric, and I have seen 10 year old rust buckets on your videos, however I can't recall seeing a 5 year old video with holes where the rust has already gone straight through the metal! I am so glad we do not put salt in the snow areas we have in Australia. If you were a mechanic here, you would be working on as many 50 year old vehicles through to new vehicles as you wanted to. There are older vehicles than that, quite a lot actually. It is crazy Americans would tolerate such a situation, the vehicles would want to be cheap when new, that's all I can say!!
I like how you always tell it as it is. Thank you:) Old homeschool DIY car mechanic trying to keep up with the times. Just got my first diagnostic tool because my old Dodge Ram Minivan didn't have a OBD port or computers that died in 2021 with over 300,000 miles. Now that I have a 2008 Chevy Cobalt LS 4-door 2.2L, now it's time for this old fart DIY car mechanic to go back to school. lol
Good thing for bad service exploration work, it enables you to find the right spot and see the crusty wires that were never sealed properly !!! Good diagnosis and repair, Eric. Nice of Mrs. O. to visit and add her 2 cents. And Luna the kitty always has a good word about you whenever you call her name - love it !!!!! On to the next one !!!!!! 😀😺
Eric, solder joint connectors are perfect, used in aircraft production for many years, though not twisted, just inserted then soldered with a heat gun, if it’s good enough for the FAA and for me to put my stamp on. That’s fine by me.
Only issue I have here is the use of non-lead solder in the low temp solders. It will unfix itself eventually so I treat that solder option like I do a bare crimp - it's going to fail so expect it. 60/40 or go home on my work.
I left the industry around 2003-4. In those days solder connections in helicopters were unacceptable.
I was thinking of fixing my jeep wiring harness with these. Not critical wiring, but in an area that needs to be small. It doesn't help that every used door harness has been made poorly and damaged with normal use already. I've played with them before and they seem to make a decent joint, which is already protected with heat shrink. The biggest issue might be that you can only find the cheaper chinese pieces online.
@@leebarnes655 Dear Armchair warrior I believe you’re missing the issue here. It wouldn’t matter if you replaced the wire end to end and coated it with Harry Potters magic spell. Honestly the truck has reached its limits of use for its location.
@@adobedoug2564 They still are unacceptable for repairing wires. Environmental splices are used for that. There are of course some connectors that have wires soldered into them, but for wiring repairs, you are not soldering them.
Simple oldschool is the meanest! AWESOME job brother!
Yep the absolute highlight of the show is when mrs. O shows up
You are great you take it to the dealership charge your eyes out and still don't fix it you are the best 🙂🙂 stay safe 😊😊
I have a fox and hound type tool too, and I was never able to make it work for me. And your splices are good to go. I know you have been doing this a long time and you would know what splices work and what don't work. No callbacks when you splice, there's the proof. Another great job. A human broke wire sniffer. 🔧🔧🔧
@2:10 Great planned obsolescence design, put electronic modules where they're most susceptible to water and salt corrosion!
Being a socal native, the rust we get out here is from the coastal areas and being parked under a tree. Hat is off to you sir
I atoned for my wiring sin thanks to you, a video you made some time this year showed you repairing a pigtail using your soldering iron... I had put a new pig tail on my old truck that the old one had corroded up using wire nuts and electrical tape.... after seeing your video I bought a nice new butane soldering kit and some shrink wrap... it's done properly now. Thanks for your videos, you help more than you know.
At the end of the day you have to do what works for you and your customer, reaching that conclusion can go a few different ways this one worked out for you. almost forgot I used one of them tracing things a few times I can never get it to work right and always ended up doing it by hand, you have such a knowledge base on this good job!
That detector reminds me of the powered test light that was popular a number of years back. You didn't need a ground- touch the probe to the copper wire or terminal and your other hand to any metal part of the car- if it beeped and flashed you had voltage. Great! BUT the voltage could be going though greenies that won't carry enough current to do any work- like operate a trailer light which was what I was usually trying to repair.
I use both the wire tracer and peepers and paws... good job eric.... I think you should get into dowsing.... You definitely have a gift for it sir. always love your video's... when I grow up I am gonna do mechanical video's too!.
Dear Eric,
I have viewed and enjoyed many of your videos but I have not left too many comments here. Having said that, when you used solder vs. crimp-on terminals, you really made the day for an old-school retired 42 year veteran electrician/master electrician who started working in the mining locomotive industry and moved on to be an electrician, technician, technical training instructor and then retired as the manager of a technical training department for a major US transportation company. People who never wired some type of vehicle harness prior to crimpable connectors just don't get soldering. . . . . Thanks for making my day! That was an awesome repair and I'm very qualified to make that statement.
Take Care,
Tom K, aka, Tom the Fossil
Mr O, I always tell people that it is better to be pissed off then to be pissed on. It works for me and *Thank You* for the entertainment and educational content in your videos. They are greatly appreciated. 👍
I think I like the Deftones version of Knife Party better...
Fox and hound, I use it to track where the wire goes. Plus you can find the wire in a connector of wires easily without pulling the diagram. For example, abs harness. plug the tool into one of the speed sensor wires, go to abs module and find out where its at in the connector in a matter of like 2 minutes. Helpful if you don't have a connector diagram or don't want to spend the time pulling it.
If the wire is almost completely broken (or green crusty connected), they seem to still transmit through the wire.
as Teddy said: “It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.”
Very well said
I’ve been soldering and heat shrinking for years as you have and never had issues with those repairs….so you didn’t piss me off!!
I met a guy from Tibet with a similar beep beep tool and the magical words he would say with the tool was, "do you love me?" And, the beeper would become very sensitive. Worked every time.
Love the videos Dr. O. Watched many and love the careful pragmatic approach to the problem. My project car has a mechanical issue, likely caused by something electrical (old OBD1), and I’m approaching it with a “What would Dr O do?”
Dr Oz would probably tell ya to go get The Boosta in ya Caboosta.😉
Eric: This is an old truck...
Me, still daily driving my 1998 Ram: 😳
In the salt belt?
@@lalitoojos Yep. Rust on the bumpers and just starting on the bed over the wheels. Had the door bottoms fixed. Other than that, it's been amazingly reliable. Original owner.
The best notification of the day! Love me some SMA
As an Aircraft and Power plant mechanic. Fancy word for a guy that fixes aircraft. I’ve seen wires and in aircraft’s you can only do so many repairs and they have to be fixed over a certain length of the wire. I always fixed the wire and heat shrieked then put it through a smaller conduit then added it back to the bundle. A lot more work but made me sleep better at night knowing I fixed it good with no possible cross circuit issues. I didn’t want to cause a plane wreck. If I seen anything close to that bundle I would have had a heart attack. Lol nice find. I never used those beeping machines to find a broken wire. Too many large loads inside them for that to work. Just look for areas where they been fixed or they are bent.
Your videos are very real. That is what makes them worth watching....
In the trucking industry, multiple times daily visual and physical inspections are mandatory. Eyes and a brain are pretty good tools, if they're used.
Good Lord...I've lived in NY my entire life and even I'm appalled at how rotten that frame is after only 5 years 😳
Thats what I said! wow, 5 years, 80 some odd thou miles. Sad....
The body and engine compartment looks pretty good. It’s just the frame that’s all rusted out. So GM knows how to rustproof, they just choose not to do it on the frames of these pickups.
I was thinking the same. I'm from CT and was and this looks worse than my 1990 f250 that came from NY and has 360k on it. But as I understand it GM still doesn't bother to paint their frames. They just wax them which doesn't hold up.
You should try 'solder sleeves' for your harness wire repairs. They're basically a piece of transparent heat-shrink sleeve with a ring of solder inside. You push the two stripped wires in either side and use a small butane torch or electric heat gun on them. The solder melts to make the joint and the sleeve shrinks all in one go. The good thing about them is that the sleeve also has hot-melt adhesive inside which make the finished joint waterproof and also provides some strain relief for the wires as well. They're a win win win...
He used those...
Andrew D.- wasn’t that what he was using?
Thats what he used 😂
Twisting and shrinking wires is perfect.
Your commentary at the end about modules and gauges has convinced me to continue driving my m2005 Lesabre. And most of you that read this comment probably know what engine that has.
Sensitive electronics should ALWAYS be mounted outside the interior of the vehicle /s
Manufacturers have to create secondary incomes from all the failing parts :)
@@zx8401ztv TRUTH - Isn't Detroit in the rust belt????
I’m in Detroit, just as bad as upstate NY. Gotta keep us workin!!!
In my Subaru EVERYTHING is on the inside, even the brake lines. I've never needed to replace more than the last 6" of any brake line. I've never had a wiring problem. (Though I did need to replace a rotted fuel tank)
Outside the interior???
I think you should get a pair of those water divining rods and walk past the car on the lift until they start to quiver. Then cut the harness right there and do the money shot. The people would absolutely loose their mind !!!
I've officially seen it all: a suspension control module on a farm truck. I'd expect that stuff on a Mercedes or a Tesla.
I’ve seen Isuzu rodeos with a suspension computer 99+ LSE’s not very good probably but it was there
Eric, I was a John Deere mechanic, that tool will find the problem every time. Find out how it works, it has a way to point you in direction to problem, excellent tool, not at toss off.
I have to say your method of troubleshooting is fantastic