All the reasons you mentioned for getting a narrowband are exactly why I got one. My car is mostly stock, it's 20+ years old now and I just want it running at Stoich. It is prone to developing issues like vacuum leaks so I use the data to help me troubleshoot issues, plus it looks cool! Definitely better than having to look at the live data with a cheap OBDII. I just want a normal driving car, not a racecar. Great explanation!
Overall good video but confusing at a few spots. @ 2:15 did you mean narrow band? @ 3:45 did you mean wide band? @7:3012:1 narrow band out of range. Did you mean less than 10:1? It looked as though 12:1 was within the range on the narrow band graph.
Exactly: The time you spend, the frustration of not getting tuned right, the wasted fuel, more. Wideband. You learn more while you drive and test your pedal action, the car response, the changes in altitude/weather. To me, it's like a toy that enhances your driving/tuning experience. Not better than beer, of course. :-)
@@MuscleCarSolutions Not sure if you noticed at the 2:13 mark but you mixed up the voltage measurement for the 2 sensors. You said the Wideband has a measurement of 0-1v but you should have said the Narrowband has that. Good info though.
I bought one of those led edelbrock afr meters back in the early 90s which are narrow band. If I remember correctly, it was over $200 back then. Definitely wasn’t $50. I always found it to be kind of helpful but only if you were in the ballpark to start with. Maybe they were costly because there was not much to choose from back then?
I was really hoping this guy would mention carbureted applications and if there is any reason to buy wideband if only trying to make sure your not lean all of the time.
The whole point of an AFR is to monitor operation and evaluate changes made. This is simply a discussion on the differences in the two types of sensors. As a tuning tool, I assumed it was understood it’s extremely valuable and I recommend using one of you can afford one. Simplifies and speeds up the process and gets better results.
Great video sir! I recently purchased a narrow band gauge by mistake, and I'll be honest I've heard of wideband gauges a million times but never a narrow band. And I knew the face of the gauge was a little different, but didn't think anything of it. It wasn't until I tried to hook it up, did I notice something wasn't right.
Wow thanks a lot for this video! I'm looking for a sensor with a gauge to put in my '65 Volvo, just to monitor if the carburettors need adjustment. Now its clear I can just take the narrowband!
Hello, Can you help me with my choice of AFR Narrow/Wide band I have a 1992 TVR Griffith 4.3 litre V8 I understand the overall differences and superiority of Wideband. My wish is just to pass the NCT (National Car Test) here in Ireland. The car has a Lucas 14CUX ECU and the CO levels are too high to pass the test. HC level is OK. I just need to reduce the CO. I am not really interested in all the 'bells and whistles' of emissions. Would I be correct in thinking that a narrow band AFR is all i need? Thanks in advance of your reply. Vincent Smith
I hope its not too late to ask this question, but I'm working on a truck that has factory efi with narrowbands. the engine had a big failure so it was rebuilt with performance in mind, its still NA but it has a longer stroke, much higher compression, better intake, bigger cam, ect. On my factory ecu I have an operating system that would allow me to wire in a wideband to replace the narrwoband which I plan to do eventually. But as I'm getting ready to fire up this engine for the first time can I get away with a narrowband until I have the funds for widebands with a conservative tune? I can't run a factory tune because the engine is radically different like not even the same displacement. Not gonna lie rebuilding an engine which needed all new internals and springing for a forged bottom end has bled me dry otherwise I'd just go get a pair of sensors
Hi Sir, 2019 5.0 Mustang. Would you recommend a Duel set up & where is the best place to install the 02 Sensors? Supercharged & Headers installed on the vehicle. Or do you keep the original factory 02 Sensors & also add the Bosch 02 Sensors as well. My explanation is because I'm from Australia 🇦🇺 if my terminology is different. Kind Regards, William.
The factory computer will only monitor however many channels it has in the system. If there’s only one, it will monitor one and you can’t add a second. If you want to monitor it on your own or are switching to a aftermarket stand alone system, then two is always a better choice to monitor both banks.
Hope you enjoyed SEMA! I think I could really use a wide band AFR on the Mustang. Cold starts are stinky and more smokey then my neighbors like lol. The car runs strong once warmed up with the new avs2. Maybe now that I'm a little older I'm more cautious, but the idea of running lean and not knowing eats at the back of my mind..So I'm purchasing an AME X series from Summit because without one I will literally drive myself insane. Just a heads up I'm sure I'll have about 3 or 40 questions. Any help you can offer as always is really appreciated. Between you and the gys at C&C Auto Works I've got so much help. I appreciate you guys a bunch.
Thanks! AFR is an amazing tuning tool. I wish more would take advantage of it rather than thinking that “seat of the pants” tuning is effective. You leave a lot of power/economy/drivability on the table with that old antiquated method. It will make your tuning time much quicker, but there’s still lots of driving between changes to verify it’s what works across all situations. You’ll enjoy it. Get busy!
I know this is an old video. But I’m going to ask I have an 85 Mr2 with the 4age NA. All run off the stock computer. Since all I am trying to do is know lean or rich from the gauge is it wise to just use the narrow band? It is an Autocross car but no power adder or stand alone fuel management. Just for fun. Thanks for any advise.
Wideband is a better choice, it gives more data between the signal voltage. Widebands are best to none when it comes to monitoring your afr (that's why all tuners use this). But if your really in a budget and just want to have a reference point to where your afr is, a narrow band with a wider breakdown on its signal voltage would be better. I think dynoracing has one wherein they broke down the signal voltage of 0 - 1 into decimal incriments to get a sort of precise reading on your afr during the rpm range.
In (my) narrowband application there are four sensors, two pre-cat and two post-cat. Is this the same with wideband applications? I am doing an engine swap with an aftermarket ECU. Do I need four WB sensors? Or do I block off my post-cat bungs?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Swapping a 1UZFE non-VVTi on a Link G4X Storm COP into an Isuzu VehiCross that originally had a V6 with auto now has manual. Plan to run dual cats and exhaust.
Maybe you can help me I just acquired a badass Baja that needs some help on the fuel injection that it has I replaced all the fuel line and I haven't even started her yet and added a water fuel separator it's a generation 1 CB performance fuel injection system called Ultra performance fuel injection they have the instructions on their website my question is what sensor can I use wideband or narrowband 2 best control the fuel mixture it has two knobs one for idle and 4 wide open throttle the computer is based off of geostorm😂 but I have four individual throttle bodies based off of Old Weber carburetor design you can help them be freaking awesome dude
So im still new at getting a wideband, just received my narrow band afr today and I was just getting it cause my other pod was empty. I do have a street manifold that looks like the skunk2 ultra series but not really on planning on doing anything major on it just basically i/h/e and might get a chip ecu in the future. Should I still get a wideband or just stick with the narrow since I'm not planning on doing anything big yet basically how the economy is going on now with the gas prices 😄.
All the reasons you mentioned for getting a narrowband are exactly why I got one. My car is mostly stock, it's 20+ years old now and I just want it running at Stoich. It is prone to developing issues like vacuum leaks so I use the data to help me troubleshoot issues, plus it looks cool! Definitely better than having to look at the live data with a cheap OBDII.
I just want a normal driving car, not a racecar. Great explanation!
, same with me. I
Overall good video but confusing at a few spots.
@ 2:15 did you mean narrow band?
@ 3:45 did you mean wide band?
@7:30 12:1 narrow band out of range. Did you mean less than 10:1? It looked as though 12:1 was within the range on the narrow band graph.
Exactly: The time you spend, the frustration of not getting tuned right, the wasted fuel, more. Wideband. You learn more while you drive and test your pedal action, the car response, the changes in altitude/weather. To me, it's like a toy that enhances your driving/tuning experience. Not better than beer, of course. :-)
It’s a tool that for sure has made everyone better at tuning on the carburetor side and has given such amazing leaps forward for EFI. Beers to you!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Not sure if you noticed at the 2:13 mark but you mixed up the voltage measurement for the 2 sensors. You said the Wideband has a measurement of 0-1v but you should have said the Narrowband has that. Good info though.
I bought one of those led edelbrock afr meters back in the early 90s which are narrow band. If I remember correctly, it was over $200 back then. Definitely wasn’t $50. I always found it to be kind of helpful but only if you were in the ballpark to start with. Maybe they were costly because there was not much to choose from back then?
I was really hoping this guy would mention carbureted applications and if there is any reason to buy wideband if only trying to make sure your not lean all of the time.
The whole point of an AFR is to monitor operation and evaluate changes made. This is simply a discussion on the differences in the two types of sensors. As a tuning tool, I assumed it was understood it’s extremely valuable and I recommend using one of you can afford one. Simplifies and speeds up the process and gets better results.
Great video sir!
I recently purchased a narrow band gauge by mistake, and I'll be honest I've heard of wideband gauges a million times but never a narrow band. And I knew the face of the gauge was a little different, but didn't think anything of it. It wasn't until I tried to hook it up, did I notice something wasn't right.
Well at least it was probably really cheap!
For the narrow band, Couldn’t you just monitor the voltage on the 02 sensor if 0.5 is stoich maybe even add a resistor to tune the voltage if needed?
Wow thanks a lot for this video!
I'm looking for a sensor with a gauge to put in my '65 Volvo, just to monitor if the carburettors need adjustment.
Now its clear I can just take the narrowband!
Narrowband will give you less info.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Exactly! I only need to know if it runs stoich or not, i'm not interested in the exact value!
Yes I am that narrow band guy.... Classic standard T-bird. Thanks
Narrowband O2s do work, they just don’t provide much information that’s helpful with tuning. What are you using yours for?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Just to be assure my carburator is tuned right.
And for the extra milage...
1964 Thunderbird 390FE with 1406 Edelbrock carb
Mileage driving is really what the narrowband is best at. If you can keep it in that prime target area, you’re doing about as best you can!
Just a correction. at 2:17. Wide band reads from 1-5 volts. Not 0-1, Just FYI. You may have ment to say Narrow band.
If you don't know if it's a wideband or narrow can you test it at the signal wire to find out if it's wide or narrow sensors
Great awesome video👍. I have a question. Can a wideband sensor work on a regular ECM from the factory or do I need a stand alone computer ? 🤔
can i "tune" a turbo ke jetronic with the narrowband? i just wanna keep it in stoich range?? it is tuned by an allen screw
Can I add one if my truck doesn't have a ecu computer
Hello, Can you help me with my choice of AFR Narrow/Wide band
I have a 1992 TVR Griffith 4.3 litre V8 I understand the overall differences and superiority of Wideband.
My wish is just to pass the NCT (National Car Test) here in Ireland. The car has a Lucas 14CUX ECU and the CO levels are too high to pass the test.
HC level is OK. I just need to reduce the CO. I am not really interested in all the 'bells and whistles' of emissions.
Would I be correct in thinking that a narrow band AFR is all i need?
Thanks in advance of your reply.
Vincent Smith
I hope its not too late to ask this question, but I'm working on a truck that has factory efi with narrowbands. the engine had a big failure so it was rebuilt with performance in mind, its still NA but it has a longer stroke, much higher compression, better intake, bigger cam, ect. On my factory ecu I have an operating system that would allow me to wire in a wideband to replace the narrwoband which I plan to do eventually. But as I'm getting ready to fire up this engine for the first time can I get away with a narrowband until I have the funds for widebands with a conservative tune? I can't run a factory tune because the engine is radically different like not even the same displacement. Not gonna lie rebuilding an engine which needed all new internals and springing for a forged bottom end has bled me dry otherwise I'd just go get a pair of sensors
That Panchos white queso must be good stuff.
so, when tuning a motorcycle with a carb and no efi is the narrowband adequate?
Narrow band(o2 sensor) measures oxygen, wide band (af sensor)measures gasses
Thank you sir this video very helpful
is it possible that after replaced a narrowband by a wideband sensor, I keep getting a P0032 code (2009 corolla)? thanks
what to use with a carby and no computer,,
Hi Sir,
2019 5.0 Mustang.
Would you recommend a Duel set up & where is the best place to install the 02 Sensors?
Supercharged & Headers installed on the vehicle.
Or do you keep the original factory 02 Sensors & also add the Bosch 02 Sensors as well.
My explanation is because I'm from Australia 🇦🇺 if my terminology is different.
Kind Regards,
William.
The factory computer will only monitor however many channels it has in the system. If there’s only one, it will monitor one and you can’t add a second. If you want to monitor it on your own or are switching to a aftermarket stand alone system, then two is always a better choice to monitor both banks.
Hope you enjoyed SEMA! I think I could really use a wide band AFR on the Mustang. Cold starts are stinky and more smokey then my neighbors like lol. The car runs strong once warmed up with the new avs2. Maybe now that I'm a little older I'm more cautious, but the idea of running lean and not knowing eats at the back of my mind..So I'm purchasing an AME X series from Summit because without one I will literally drive myself insane. Just a heads up I'm sure I'll have about 3 or 40 questions. Any help you can offer as always is really appreciated. Between you and the gys at C&C Auto Works I've got so much help. I appreciate you guys a bunch.
Thanks! AFR is an amazing tuning tool. I wish more would take advantage of it rather than thinking that “seat of the pants” tuning is effective. You leave a lot of power/economy/drivability on the table with that old antiquated method. It will make your tuning time much quicker, but there’s still lots of driving between changes to verify it’s what works across all situations. You’ll enjoy it. Get busy!
Can we use same gauge and just switch the narrow band sensor to wide band sensor?
No. The gauge isn’t calibrated to that range.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I see, that's make sense.
I know this is an old video. But I’m going to ask I have an 85 Mr2 with the 4age NA. All run off the stock computer. Since all I am trying to do is know lean or rich from the gauge is it wise to just use the narrow band? It is an Autocross car but no power adder or stand alone fuel management. Just for fun. Thanks for any advise.
Wideband is a better choice, it gives more data between the signal voltage. Widebands are best to none when it comes to monitoring your afr (that's why all tuners use this). But if your really in a budget and just want to have a reference point to where your afr is, a narrow band with a wider breakdown on its signal voltage would be better. I think dynoracing has one wherein they broke down the signal voltage of 0 - 1 into decimal incriments to get a sort of precise reading on your afr during the rpm range.
So would you say that a narrow band gives you the same information as reading plugs?
No. Properly read plugs can give much more detail than the limited feedback from a narrowband O2.
In (my) narrowband application there are four sensors, two pre-cat and two post-cat. Is this the same with wideband applications? I am doing an engine swap with an aftermarket ECU. Do I need four WB sensors? Or do I block off my post-cat bungs?
Really depends on what your device is asking for. I don’t have a clue what system you’re using or is it something factory?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Swapping a 1UZFE non-VVTi on a Link G4X Storm COP into an Isuzu VehiCross that originally had a V6 with auto now has manual. Plan to run dual cats and exhaust.
@@scottbartlett4853 I have no knowledge of that system.
hi, can i use cheap narrowband to tune the carburetor on my old motorcycle? Are they relatively accurate? And if possible, which brand is the best?
Narrowband doesn’t give enough info. Watch the video and it will explain it for you.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks sir
Narrowban sensors now can provide numbers that you can see
Narrowband sensors read rich or lean but will not tell you how far off the engine is from stoich. A wideband sensor will give you those numbers.
Maybe you can help me I just acquired a badass Baja that needs some help on the fuel injection that it has I replaced all the fuel line and I haven't even started her yet and added a water fuel separator it's a generation 1 CB performance fuel injection system called Ultra performance fuel injection they have the instructions on their website my question is what sensor can I use wideband or narrowband 2 best control the fuel mixture it has two knobs one for idle and 4 wide open throttle the computer is based off of geostorm😂 but I have four individual throttle bodies based off of Old Weber carburetor design you can help them be freaking awesome dude
Don’t have a clue what that system needs.
Thanks for the upload
Good job Now I understand !!
So im still new at getting a wideband, just received my narrow band afr today and I was just getting it cause my other pod was empty. I do have a street manifold that looks like the skunk2 ultra series but not really on planning on doing anything major on it just basically i/h/e and might get a chip ecu in the future. Should I still get a wideband or just stick with the narrow since I'm not planning on doing anything big yet basically how the economy is going on now with the gas prices 😄.
It’s just limited info you’ll receive but if you’re hypermiling and just watching economy it’s probably going to give you everything you’ll need.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok thank you
Thank you
Great video
Thank you
Thank you
Basically says that Wideband is way better,,Your welcome an saved you 5 min
Fish tastes better if you caught it yourself
But you don't know why unless you watch the video.