If optimal balance varies depending on the fuel, how does the oxygen sensor 'know' what fuel is present in the gas tank? Does the vehicle use alcohol sensors that feed back to the PCM, and then the PCM determines the optimum A/F that would be ideal with that mix, then it defines stoichiometric lambda of 1.0 to be the corrected ratio based on the fuel in the tank?
I seen you said on boosted afr is 11 to 12 , i have 6-71 blower with two new carburetors "650 avs2 elderbrock" under drivin crank pulley is 36 blower pulley 37 is my afr the same for what you said on boosted, I'm trying to tune my car no good dynos in area, thanks for your time
Yes usually. The issue with the old cased stuff is it’s terribly temperamental to tune and keep running right. Now you can get it driving and running sure, but I don’t measure success that way. I want to use the full potential of what I’m using. Just be prepared to continue to work on it and continue to be frustrated by it.
If I was runing my forced induction setup on pump gas with an afr around 11.5 to 11.8 if I add let's say c16 and a water meth Inj nozzle system question is now since I am spraying water/ meth and at the same time using c16 in this situation I will have to see how much of the two fuels 50% to 50% or 70% to 30% whatever ratios i am blending to get an average afr ratio that suits me. if I tune the same setup on lambda does this mean that I can I have 0.75 to 0.78 lambda no matter what I change c16 ,q16 ,ethanol ,or any kind of blend c16 and water /meth ,pump gas and water / meth, ....etc according to what I read I don't need to change anything in my tune same lambda same everything except ofcourse timing c16 will allow me to get past mbt am I correct or am I missing something here specifically with the water /meth injection I will be spraying through the intake manifold with a nozzle
Awesome video. Do I need a wideband o2 sensor to accurately read in Lambda on my challenger. I have a i3 tuner which I'm currently working on my WOT fuel settings. Thanks
I just wanted to let you know I found that I'm going to have to add the wb sensors to what is there already. Thanks for all your help, and for getting back with me so quickly.
I have a 67 Mustang with a 289, Edelbrock Upper End kit and Edelbrock 1406 carb and an AEM AFR gauge. I have the tuning kit and have watched your videos. Great info! Car is finally running right (had a stumble) after doing some basic tuning and replacing the cheap Carter mechanical pump to an Edelbrock high performance mechanical pump (6 psi). Problem is car smells like its running rich ALL the time, even idling. My clothes wreak of rich exhaust. So my question is how to I properly tune the carb with the AFR gauge? I've been adjusting the air/fuel screws so the gauge reads 14.5-14.7 at idle. Obviously I can only adjust/tune at idle. But at cruise it's reading more like 12.5 - 3.0. Power/full throttle, 10-11. Can you give me range of what the AFR should be reading at Idle, Cruise and Power? Also, I plan to crack the carb open to change jets to match a lower cruise setting. I'm going to rebuild the carb while I'm at it. So far I've only changed metering rods and set up springs. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
First get the fuel system set correctly. Set your pressure regulator to 5 PSI and adjust up from there. Check the float levels in the carb. Make sure you didn’t get any contamination in the carb when you made the fuel pump change. Last is to ensure your filters are clean or changed. Both before the pump and after. Adjust the idle mixture screws then forget about them. They only are effective under 1000 RPM. Now you can start adjusting the carb. For a cruiser, I like to target the AFR around 13.5-14. When it’s full throttle down around 12.5. Any lower than that on a naturally aspirated engine gets on a too rich side. Follow the explanation in my ultimate tuning guide and follow the tuning chart. Likely you’re a touch over carbureted with at 600 on that small cubic inch engine. I don’t know what else has been done to it and what cam you’re running but that also might be an issue.
It’s going to come down to what you’re most comfortable with. If you’ve learned AFR, then stick with it. If you’ve learned in lambda, stick with it. Most newer systems have the ability to read in both or either so it just comes down to what you’re comfortable with.
@@MuscleCarSolutions So different Fuel types has diffrent power peak using AFR?? But Lambda is always the same on al fuels? So why are shop using AFR when lambda is the real deal.
nice man. keep up with the videos. thanks
Good video and nice chap.
Great info!!!!
Thank you very much, as a beginner might at as well start from lambda and get comfortable with it.
Not a bad plan.
Very good clip
You’re amazing man
If optimal balance varies depending on the fuel, how does the oxygen sensor 'know' what fuel is present in the gas tank? Does the vehicle use alcohol sensors that feed back to the PCM, and then the PCM determines the optimum A/F that would be ideal with that mix, then it defines stoichiometric lambda of 1.0 to be the corrected ratio based on the fuel in the tank?
I seen you said on boosted afr is 11 to 12 , i have 6-71 blower with two new carburetors "650 avs2 elderbrock" under drivin crank pulley is 36 blower pulley 37 is my afr the same for what you said on boosted, I'm trying to tune my car no good dynos in area, thanks for your time
Yes usually. The issue with the old cased stuff is it’s terribly temperamental to tune and keep running right. Now you can get it driving and running sure, but I don’t measure success that way. I want to use the full potential of what I’m using. Just be prepared to continue to work on it and continue to be frustrated by it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you
If I have a guage that reads Lambda can I tune with Methanol , E85 or Q16 ?
If I was runing my forced induction setup on pump gas with an afr around 11.5 to 11.8 if I add let's say c16 and a water meth Inj nozzle system question is now since I am spraying water/ meth and at the same time using c16 in this situation I will have to see how much of the two fuels 50% to 50% or 70% to 30% whatever ratios i am blending to get an average afr ratio that suits me.
if I tune the same setup on lambda does this mean that I can I have 0.75 to 0.78 lambda no matter what I change c16 ,q16 ,ethanol ,or any kind of blend c16 and water /meth ,pump gas and water / meth, ....etc according to what I read I don't need to change anything in my tune same lambda same everything except ofcourse timing c16 will allow me to get past mbt am I correct or am I missing something here specifically with the water /meth injection I will be spraying through the intake manifold with a nozzle
Awesome video. Do I need a wideband o2 sensor to accurately read in Lambda on my challenger. I have a i3 tuner which I'm currently working on my WOT fuel settings. Thanks
Yes.
Thanks. Can you recommend a company to me for the sensors, and do I need all 4 or just the 2 front ones.
I just wanted to let you know I found that I'm going to have to add the wb sensors to what is there already. Thanks for all your help, and for getting back with me so quickly.
Do you need a chassis dyno to tune your car (for street use) using Lambda?
Guess it all depends on what you’re tuning for. Max power, max potential? Yeah for sure a dyno. More seat of the pants tuning? Nope.
So then the lambda method does the conversion for you, due to its technology?
I have a 67 Mustang with a 289, Edelbrock Upper End kit and Edelbrock 1406 carb and an AEM AFR gauge. I have the tuning kit and have watched your videos. Great info! Car is finally running right (had a stumble) after doing some basic tuning and replacing the cheap Carter mechanical pump to an Edelbrock high performance mechanical pump (6 psi). Problem is car smells like its running rich ALL the time, even idling. My clothes wreak of rich exhaust. So my question is how to I properly tune the carb with the AFR gauge? I've been adjusting the air/fuel screws so the gauge reads 14.5-14.7 at idle. Obviously I can only adjust/tune at idle. But at cruise it's reading more like 12.5 - 3.0. Power/full throttle, 10-11. Can you give me range of what the AFR should be reading at Idle, Cruise and Power? Also, I plan to crack the carb open to change jets to match a lower cruise setting. I'm going to rebuild the carb while I'm at it. So far I've only changed metering rods and set up springs. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
First get the fuel system set correctly. Set your pressure regulator to 5 PSI and adjust up from there. Check the float levels in the carb. Make sure you didn’t get any contamination in the carb when you made the fuel pump change. Last is to ensure your filters are clean or changed. Both before the pump and after. Adjust the idle mixture screws then forget about them. They only are effective under 1000 RPM. Now you can start adjusting the carb. For a cruiser, I like to target the AFR around 13.5-14. When it’s full throttle down around 12.5. Any lower than that on a naturally aspirated engine gets on a too rich side. Follow the explanation in my ultimate tuning guide and follow the tuning chart. Likely you’re a touch over carbureted with at 600 on that small cubic inch engine. I don’t know what else has been done to it and what cam you’re running but that also might be an issue.
Randomly changing rods or jets is not a good idea. Follow the tuning chart and you’ll get the tuning results you’re looking for.
@@MuscleCarSolutions 13.5-14 is at idle right?
why afr on carburetor and not lambda?
It’s going to come down to what you’re most comfortable with. If you’ve learned AFR, then stick with it. If you’ve learned in lambda, stick with it. Most newer systems have the ability to read in both or either so it just comes down to what you’re comfortable with.
@@MuscleCarSolutions So different Fuel types has diffrent power peak using AFR?? But Lambda is always the same on al fuels? So why are shop using AFR when lambda is the real deal.