Thank you!!!! I followed your diagnosis and found the tan AND the green wire corroded and broken off. I spliced new wires in, cleaned all contacts with electrical cleaner then reassembled. Both the ABS and brake warning lights are now off. This issue has been a thorn in my side for months and is now resolved. Dude - your rock big time!!! Thanks again!
Great video. Was working on a 2005 town and country and this video was dead on. Folded the fuse box over and those 2 wires were junk. Obviously a very common failure. I dont know where the 64 dislikes came from but extremely helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. My 2002 Grand Caravan had the exact same corroded wire and ABS pump circuit failure code and also a failed ABS Sensor Circuit code and I resolved the codes in mere minutes thanks to this video. I crimped on a new common female spade connector instead of a splice and it's working. I also found that removing the adjacent plug groups first made it easier to get out that one with the broken wire and difficult red locking tab. I had the same difficult time getting the red tab out but managed to avoid breaking it... barely.
Just want to jump in and say THANK YOU! Got a new junkyard fuse box for my wife's 2006 Town & Country and when I put it in the ABS died. Watched your video and found the exact same wire issue. I don't have a spare plug to steal a new end for the wire, so I took apart the dead fuse box and found that the ABS Pump fuse & the Starter Relay leg immediately next to the ABS pump fuse are connected. Crimped on a long gauge 10 wire to the loose end in the wiring loom, ran it up to the top of the box, and smashed it into the starter relay leg so I wouldn't bypass the fuse and the ABS is back to working as expected!
your video was the best info i have been able to find on the internet or calling the dealership or even asking a mechanic. i fixed the abs brake light problem right off... thank you so much and keep up the great work...
Great video James. I just got one of the old delivery minivans from my work, a 2007 Grand Caravan, and I got it for cheap because the repair shop told them that it was gonna be expensive to fix the ABS system in it. I followed what you did in the video, found and repaired the same wire that you repaired, plus one more which was corroded and broken as well, repaired both of those and everything is back to normal. Even though the van is high mileage (440,000 kms), all I've spent so far is about $150, which includes the cost of purchasing the van. Thanks again!
This video saved my butt. I had 0 volts to the abs pump and when I checked my wires (green and brown wires as shown) they completely corroded off and separated from the terminals. Saved the terminals and carefully soldered wires back on to the terminals. Great fix no more ABS + Brake light. Thanks for the great video! 07 Town and Country
Hi David! I have town & country as well but 08 year model. Did you have 4 indicators lit on your dashboard like I have? I have BREAK ABS BAS and ESP coming up together every driving cycle when the car speed goes up to 20 km/h DTC C2200 did you have the same error code? Thank you in advance
I have a 2005 town and country which had same trouble i followed your trouble guide and yes that was my trouble also i have cleaned with sandpaper on connectors and spayed contact cleaner reset the code everything is good now thank you for sharing your video great work
Great job troubleshooting this one. I have an '06 Grand Caravan SXT and the ABS Light has been on for several years. I did some troubleshooting way back when it started and all the wheel sensors are good. I decided not to pursue it any further until finding this video. I could have a similar issue. Now I just need to continue my troubleshooting. Thanks!
Great vid! My biggest problem was in knowing how to undo the connector on the ABS module (pull the thingy on top up about a half inch). Here's a tip on testing these active senors. From that connector I tested all the sensors. I set up my multi-meter to measure current- 20 ma range. I fed 12 volts to the positive (though the meter) and grounded the "signal" lead, That's right - the "signal" lead is just ground. As I turn each wheel the reading jumps between 7 and 14 milliamps - except of the bad one which stayed on 7. A spinning wheel averages about 10 ma for a good sensor. For a stopped wheel it may be either 7 or 14 depending in where the wheel stops ( it detects the static location.) Theoretically one can just roll the car a few inches and see if the senor is good or bad. If you don't have a schematic: Looking at the connector (Power is on the *bottom* two big pins _ check for it) you'll see three vertical rows. The top pin on the left is pin 2, and the bottom is pin 8. The right most column is 17 though 23. The senors connections are in pairs, ground (signal) on top and the power pin (12V) below. The Right Rear (RR) sensor is 2,3; RF 6,7; LR 19,20; LF 22-23. Be careful not the let your meter short to ground or it will blow the fuse in the meter! Of course the same test can be done under the car at each wheel. My bad sensor was was front drivers side. The reason I started at the connector is my cheap scan tool told me "ABS not found" and I assumed I had a power issue. One more tip. If the front bolt on the battery try is frozen, that bracket comes off with one bolt underneath.
Fantastic trouble shooting skills. Kudos to you. Wish I had a shop so I could work on my stuff in the dry and out of the cold. Us shade tree mechanics have to wait for fair weather, otherwise have to take it to a paid mechanic that may or may not take the time to find the real problem instead of shot-gunning it. BTW, I'm pretty sure that glitch function on your probe is like the max/min hold on a regular VOM.
Good job! Not surprised at what you found. I had a similar problem with a Jeep Cherokee fuse box that perplexed me for a week with a no start problem. Now I look under the fuse box with anything electrical that isn't obvious. Hats off to Chrysler.
Thankyou i am having intermittent issues with this, and seeing how easy it is to do, I am ready to tackle it now. Daily driver here i come! You have a new subscriber! Great video
@@rickymartin3678 Not yet, I got started with it and found the pump I purchased was incorrect, so I've been key off and on whenever the light comes on until I can find one relatively cheap
Love the video. Chasing my abs issues. Did all you said but unlucky enough to have power to everything. My plug is opposite of yours (+on bottom, - on top of plug) but I have a another plug going to back of the pump itself with no sign of where it should plug in, very short plug wire.
Thank you! I fixed my ABS light problem too. It was a corroded and torned away wire. After cleaning and attaching it back (I soldered it), resetting the code using ODB scanner, it went away, hopefully forever.
Awesome find James! Sometimes hoarding does pay off, lol. That is a funky looking test light device, if you want to call it that. At least it isn't freaking bright neon violet/purple like the incandescent one that I use daily. Good job dude.
James Danner I think it is a Cen-Tech $10 cheapo, works just fine besides its flamboyant color and stupid cord that gets stiff as hell if its cold. Not to mention the alligator clip intermittently and without any warning self destructs, makes it sometimes frustrating to use, but for some odd and twisted reason, I love it, haha.
wow u really got from the beginning i love your video i just happen to scan my 2003 grand caravan and i have no codes except for abs spped sensor left and right plus also hydraulic pump circuit failure just like your scanner so now thank to you i will check my wiring first and hope i can fix it myself
It's usually the sensors on the wheels causing the ABS codes. Sometimes they aren't tight enough and lose ground or they get yanked around during brake jobs which pulls the wires and ruins them.
Good job as you fund the problem- sure much easier to repair a broken wire than replace the module and mess with all those lines. I have a 96 Jeep GC and the main brake line rusted out years ago and that was at the ABS module, kind of a PITA to unhook especially since it has a bubble flare. Have you ever used that electrical connector cleaner for corrosion?
no I haven't. usually by the time I see something for a problem the connector is too far gone. that's why I've been saving all the harnesses from my engine swap jobs. u never know. I hate rusty brake line work as well. especially when the module is buried. who makes the cleaner?
I have an '05 Grand Caravan and I'm getting the ABS code, "Hydraulic Pump Circuit Failure". The ABS light doesn't come on while driving around town; only after I've driven awhile and the car is hot. If I park and the engine cools a bit, the light will stay off until the car heats back up and then the ABS light will come back on. Could this still be due to the kind of electrical connection issue you found? Thanks!
I have the same issue with the abs/ brake light on. My blower motor stopped working at the same time the lights went on. Many mechanics tell me my fuse box no good and need to replace. I'm not a mechanic but usually do my own jobs with TH-cam help but electronic I don't like to mess around. Too complicated
Nice. Wonder why Chrysler likes to leave the underside of the fusebox exposed like that right near the wheel well with all the salt spray coming up and stuff...probably so people would upgrade their vehicles every 10 years haha
I thought you sounded like you had a "burgh" accent. Central pa here. I have the same problem with my caravan I think, I've got to tear it apart to make sure. Thank you for the info.
Thank you very much James Danner I have Chrysler town & country 08 year model. Did you have 4 indicators lit on your dashboard like I have? I have BREAK ABS BAS and ESP coming up together every driving cycle when the car speed goes up to 20 km/h DTC C2200 did you have the same error code? Thank you in advance
fantastic video.i have the chrysler grand voyager and i have tested the same but dont findt the problem i have an error code 400,1 and abs lamp is on can ennybodey help me
Cool video the solus is nice to have even for the prices you get them for. I just don't see why the command capabilities were even needed when you still read the codes
Other than the phosphorescent yellow ABS light glowing on the cluster, were there any specific symptoms noticed before the repair was completed; especially while using the brakes? Example: grinding, pedal pulsations, or sporatic module activity at unnecessary times?
Great job on the troubleshooting and Video. I have a 2001 GDC with an intermittent problem. It just might be the same problem? By any chance has anyone found the part number for the terminals/connectors? I don't have any harnesses laying around. Again nice job. thx
OK, hoping for a bit of troubleshooting help. I have an '06 Caravan, stow n go seats, and an ABS/brake problem that no one seems able to fix. All rotors replaced, pads, and wheel sensors. Sometimes the ABS light is on with no problems, sometimes 1 of the 4 wheels is smoking hot, it seems to jump from 1 wheel to another. Brakes have been bled more times than I can count. Over 8X to the dealership in 18 months. Once, my foot went to the floor, but I knew enough to pump, so avoided the intersection. I don't know the codes, but most often, when the light is on, it says "wheel sensor" is to blame.. If I had 1 bad wheel consistently, I could see it, but all 4 have been replaced. What could possibly cause a random wheel to engage? When it happens, I'll go thru a 1/4 tank of gas in 2-3 miles, stopping every 1/2 to 1 miles to let the rotor cool, just to get home. After it cools, ignition off, the problem goes away, like it never happened. If you have any suggestions, I've got a new mechanic I can clue in on what to look at. There's only 44K on it, and I love the SUV, except for this ABS crap. Any time I'm going more than 5 miles now, I pull the ABS fuse.
Any chance anyone messed with the master cylinder pushrod adjustment? Maybe u are not fully disengaged. Or a brake light switch holding the pedal down slightly?
Pretty sure if it was the pushrod, the brake would be permanently applied, and pedal is free. I saw 'gears' for the front that the sensors read, a chance they are too rusty, but that doesn't explain why or how the rear could be engaging.. or does it? I mean, if it was occasionally missing a tooth, the front would engage, but if it's missing a tooth, then it wouldn't swing the other way and "see" one that's not there. Or would it? I even tried contacting Dodge to see if there was an issue with the computer, maybe something not big enough for a recall but important enough that the techs should have checked for the flaw. No answer.
P Huster I saw a bulletin on the push rod adjustment being slightly too tight and the hotter it got ,expansion would keep it slightly applied. Causing your symptoms. .if u had a wrench or socket with u when it acted up, try to loosen the 2 nuts at master cylinder a little and see if it can move again. As far as the teeth or tone rings. If there is a tooth imperfection, abs would go off for no reason and get worse the faster u went. Not hold a random brake on without release.
cool... thank you man... very informative... i wonder if there is better faster way to check for that 12 volt at the pump... maybe looking at that diagram you have... did you get it from the dealer?
Nice find! Hope the customer appreciated you saving them a lot of money! Peace & quiet... I too like having the shop to myself, did you stay late or come in on a weekend?
I have these warning lights on in my 2007 Caravan. Once you drive it a bit, the computer turns off the ABS and it brakes normally. Been that way since I've had it for 3 years.
Howdy, Hope anyone can help! I replaced an o2 sensor on '05 Dodge Grand Caravan. Took off windshield wipers, cowling, wiper motor and pan. So, had to disconnect wiring clip for the wiper motor to get motor pan off. It seems same wiring harness has something to do with the ABS. After o2 sensor job done. Went to pull van out of driveway and have stiff brake pedal and pretty much no brakes. I don't think it's the booster, did the simple diagnostic check on that. Could it be in that wiring harness? Anyone have any clues they can give me? I am a novice, just trying to help my kid pass emissions, and wind up with an even bigger problem...UGH
hey james 4 months ago i did comments on your video for the abs pump however i got a question for you now fuses,wiring, voltage is all there would you think that if the wheels speedd sensors are bad the abs light will come on from time to time i have not replace any of then my van is 2012 could that be the only thing that i need
+juan orellana alot of times an intermittent light is caused by a bad sensor or sensor wiring. If u know someone with a scanner, it should have set a code that will stay in memory for awhile even if the light is out
My last coupl eof cars the abs pump doesnt start up untill the wheels have done 3 or 4 rotations, so you'd have to drive the car a few meters before you got a pump code.
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.8L with a ABS light on the dash. Should I notice any difference in the breaks? My cheap code reader doesn't give me a error code. Was thinking of going to a parts store where they read the codes for free to tell me what the problem is.
Hey guy; Good vid! If you have time i have question. My 2005 Dod Grand Caravan has had ABS light on for a few years. Don't ask bout inspections:))) I finally need to fix this. Cost of guessing mount up fffast. I sent to Garage to scan looking for a direction as I had checked sensors and (rings), with no visible issues. They said pump ABS would not power, no codes for sensors. I removed battery and checked for power to plug on Module. 12 v and good ground to both heavy wired connectors. Top 2 positive, lower 2 ground I did the ohm check on all sensors they checked ok. Also power to plus side on connectors close to each sensor. However i tried the connect sensor pins to meter and set to A/C spinning tire I get no current detected on any sensors. What I did not check while I had module plug off was pin 7 left side (holding the plug as it fits) is supposed to be powered as well. I guess i need to get up and close to wiring diagram. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Best; Tom
at 28:07 you can see 12.86 volts on the ABS pump V reading - it works it's just slow to update then you scrolled past it when it was running the next 2 times.
Yea i noticed that when i was editing. i was listening for the pump and totally missed it. im glad you guys are watching and paying attention to the vids. thank you
hi there again james one question for you p0009 engine positionsystem performance-bank 2 mean for a grand caravan 2002 can you help me on that one please im not sure if is mean 02 sensor for sure
I need a little more info like the engine size and vin digit if it's a 3.3l. Usually the p00xx codes are cam timing codes . Like a jumped timing belt , stretched timing chain or vvt system issues
I've had my 06 Grand Caravan in over a dozen times in 2 years, and still not fixed.. Sometimes ABS light on, but not always. It's jumped from all 4 brakes, 1 or 2 practically smoking, sometimes uneven braking, other times it's on the thruway. Rotors replaced 3X now all around. 2-3 sensors replaced. WHAT could be causing this?
+P Huster any chance the fluid is contaminated with something like power steering fluid and it attacked all the rubber. Just look at the condition of the seal on the reservoir and see. If it's swelled up
Nope, rubber looks fine.. There shouldn't be a way for extra pressure to skip from one wheel to another. Sometimes ABS light is on, but not this time. Right front is too hot for 999* no contact thermometer to read, just says 'HOT', all the others around 200*. Just sick of not being able to use it, never know when a wheel is getting hot. Dealership has supposedly gone over the whole braking system 8 times now, so what ever this is, it's not supposed to happen.
I have a 2008 Dodge Caravan I bring it to the mechanic and he test it and say all the sensors are working but as soon as I move at least 10 or 20 miles an hour the ABS light would just come on could that be my problem
+Squire Oneil did he scan for codes? Mine had light on all the time with no communication. I suppose it could be an intermittent connection at that terminal. It's not hard to flip the box over
no its scotch tape from when it was packed. its wrapped around the extension leads insulation and when I tried to pull it off, I stretched/ripped the insulation, so I left it there til I can get heat shrink that will fit it. now u can sleep tonight. Ha
who knows. I still like working in the shop. adding all the administrative and being boss would be tough. I thought about doing something smaller myself and taking a teaching job I was offered. never know. this you tube stuff could open possibilities as well
Hey man! Really appreciate the video it helped me fix my abs... I think. I had the tan wire (like you) and the other wire next to it (Gr/Rd) that were both corroded. I had to reuse my terminals because I don't have a spare wiring harness laying around. I got it all back together and now the car won't start. I noticed on that connector that the top row goes black, yellow, brown/white, green/purple. But on the integrated power module where that plugs in the top row on mine only has 2 metal prongs that line up with yellow and brown/white. So the black cable and green/purple cable seemingly plug into nothing. It SEEMS like in your video yours is the same but it's hard to see. Can you confirm? I'm not sure if maybe those corroded and that's why I'm having a no start situation.
James Danner thanks for the speedy reply. I actually worked on it this weekend. I couldn't figure out what was going on. I'm actually still not sure but I got it working. I think it was something to do with the security system. The key fob wasn't working either. I had the battery off the car for like 3 days so I think that was he problem. I actually took the whole integrated power module apart. Turns out those 2 wires in my other comment actually don't connect to anything odd enough. I ended up taking the battery off over night and charging it (because trying to turn the engine over brought the voltage down a little bit ). Then when I plugged it back in, still didn't work - but I pulled the IOD fuse for a few minutes and put it back in. Still no go - repeat that process 2-3 times and it started working. Has been good since. Seems the security system went haywire. Thanks so much for the video though. I've got the ABS working and i got my instrument cluster working again also.
Thank you!!!! I followed your diagnosis and found the tan AND the green wire corroded and broken off. I spliced new wires in, cleaned all contacts with electrical cleaner then reassembled. Both the ABS and brake warning lights are now off. This issue has been a thorn in my side for months and is now resolved. Dude - your rock big time!!! Thanks again!
Same here. Thank you!
Great video. Was working on a 2005 town and country and this video was dead on. Folded the fuse box over and those 2 wires were junk. Obviously a very common failure. I dont know where the 64 dislikes came from but extremely helpful. Thank you.
From Tech to Tech great job on the electrical diagnostics did everything like an Boss keep up the great work 🔧
Thanks for the video. My 2002 Grand Caravan had the exact same corroded wire and ABS pump circuit failure code and also a failed ABS Sensor Circuit code and I resolved the codes in mere minutes thanks to this video. I crimped on a new common female spade connector instead of a splice and it's working. I also found that removing the adjacent plug groups first made it easier to get out that one with the broken wire and difficult red locking tab. I had the same difficult time getting the red tab out but managed to avoid breaking it... barely.
Just want to jump in and say THANK YOU!
Got a new junkyard fuse box for my wife's 2006 Town & Country and when I put it in the ABS died. Watched your video and found the exact same wire issue.
I don't have a spare plug to steal a new end for the wire, so I took apart the dead fuse box and found that the ABS Pump fuse & the Starter Relay leg immediately next to the ABS pump fuse are connected.
Crimped on a long gauge 10 wire to the loose end in the wiring loom, ran it up to the top of the box, and smashed it into the starter relay leg so I wouldn't bypass the fuse and the ABS is back to working as expected!
your video was the best info i have been able to find on the internet or calling the dealership or even asking a mechanic. i fixed the abs brake light problem right off... thank you so much and keep up the great work...
+tony dj sweet
Great video James. I just got one of the old delivery minivans from my work, a 2007 Grand Caravan, and I got it for cheap because the repair shop told them that it was gonna be expensive to fix the ABS system in it. I followed what you did in the video, found and repaired the same wire that you repaired, plus one more which was corroded and broken as well, repaired both of those and everything is back to normal. Even though the van is high mileage (440,000 kms), all I've spent so far is about $150, which includes the cost of purchasing the van. Thanks again!
This video saved my butt. I had 0 volts to the abs pump and when I checked my wires (green and brown wires as shown) they completely corroded off and separated from the terminals. Saved the terminals and carefully soldered wires back on to the terminals. Great fix no more ABS + Brake light. Thanks for the great video!
07 Town and Country
Hi David! I have town & country as well but 08 year model.
Did you have 4 indicators lit on your dashboard like I have?
I have BREAK ABS BAS and ESP coming up together every driving cycle when the car speed goes up to 20 km/h
DTC C2200 did you have the same error code?
Thank you in advance
I have a 2005 town and country which had same trouble
i followed your trouble guide and yes that was my trouble also
i have cleaned with sandpaper on connectors and spayed contact cleaner
reset the code everything is good now
thank you for sharing your video great work
+goautosound thank you. And u r welcome
Thanks for this video James. Didn't realize you had a channel, you should post more
Nice fix. You are a real technician who tests things and then diagnosis the problem, not some part changing hack!
Great job troubleshooting this one. I have an '06 Grand Caravan SXT and the ABS Light has been on for several years. I did some troubleshooting way back when it started and all the wheel sensors are good. I decided not to pursue it any further until finding this video. I could have a similar issue. Now I just need to continue my troubleshooting. Thanks!
Great vid! My biggest problem was in knowing how to undo the connector on the ABS module (pull the thingy on top up about a half inch).
Here's a tip on testing these active senors. From that connector I tested all the sensors. I set up my multi-meter to measure current- 20 ma range. I fed 12 volts to the positive (though the meter) and grounded the "signal" lead, That's right - the "signal" lead is just ground. As I turn each wheel the reading jumps between 7 and 14 milliamps - except of the bad one which stayed on 7. A spinning wheel averages about 10 ma for a good sensor. For a stopped wheel it may be either 7 or 14 depending in where the wheel stops ( it detects the static location.) Theoretically one can just roll the car a few inches and see if the senor is good or bad.
If you don't have a schematic: Looking at the connector (Power is on the *bottom* two big pins _ check for it) you'll see three vertical rows. The top pin on the left is pin 2, and the bottom is pin 8. The right most column is 17 though 23. The senors connections are in pairs, ground (signal) on top and the power pin (12V) below. The Right Rear (RR) sensor is 2,3; RF 6,7; LR 19,20; LF 22-23. Be careful not the let your meter short to ground or it will blow the fuse in the meter! Of course the same test can be done under the car at each wheel. My bad sensor was was front drivers side.
The reason I started at the connector is my cheap scan tool told me "ABS not found" and I assumed I had a power issue. One more tip. If the front bolt on the battery try is frozen, that bracket comes off with one bolt underneath.
Fantastic trouble shooting skills. Kudos to you. Wish I had a shop so I could work on my stuff in the dry and out of the cold. Us shade tree mechanics have to wait for fair weather, otherwise have to take it to a paid mechanic that may or may not take the time to find the real problem instead of shot-gunning it. BTW, I'm pretty sure that glitch function on your probe is like the max/min hold on a regular VOM.
Good job! Not surprised at what you found. I had a similar problem with a Jeep Cherokee fuse box that perplexed me for a week with a no start problem. Now I look under the fuse box with anything electrical that isn't obvious. Hats off to Chrysler.
seriously. that abs light had to be flickering on and off for awhile. those can be tough.
Thankyou i am having intermittent issues with this, and seeing how easy it is to do, I am ready to tackle it now. Daily driver here i come! You have a new subscriber! Great video
Did you ever do it ?
@@rickymartin3678 Not yet, I got started with it and found the pump I purchased was incorrect, so I've been key off and on whenever the light comes on until I can find one relatively cheap
@GR1MMR3AP3R51 hey man any luck yet ?
Love the video. Chasing my abs issues. Did all you said but unlucky enough to have power to everything. My plug is opposite of yours (+on bottom, - on top of plug) but I have a another plug going to back of the pump itself with no sign of where it should plug in, very short plug wire.
my van has a broken wire as well, this helps a lot to give me an idea what to do :) thanks
Excellent workmanship
Thank you so much for this video! It save me so much time.
Great Video Janes!
I love wiring issues, it's a rewarding pain in the a**!
thanks. it is satisfying especially when thousands of dollars are at play
@@jamesdanner7850 will a cracked master cynlinder resivoir trigger the abs light?
Nice James, Great Vid! When soldering heavy gage wire, I use some flux and a torch. Works great every time!
never tried the flux. I usually melt too much insulation with torch and leave too much exposed
Thank you! I fixed my ABS light problem too. It was a corroded and torned away wire. After cleaning and attaching it back (I soldered it), resetting the code using ODB scanner, it went away, hopefully forever.
Excellent trouble shooting. Your video saved me hours of effort. Thank you.
This is by no doubt a very accurate video
Awesome find James! Sometimes hoarding does pay off, lol. That is a funky looking test light device, if you want to call it that. At least it isn't freaking bright neon violet/purple like the incandescent one that I use daily. Good job dude.
thanks. I actually want one of those bright neon ones
James Danner I think it is a Cen-Tech $10 cheapo, works just fine besides its flamboyant color and stupid cord that gets stiff as hell if its cold. Not to mention the alligator clip intermittently and without any warning self destructs, makes it sometimes frustrating to use, but for some odd and twisted reason, I love it, haha.
Great video...never get tired of watching your vids!
Great Video Danner. you sure know how to troubleshoot properly.
Thank you, your video was very helpful
Thank you very much for this video. I had the exact same problem. That same wire was corroded and broken off.
wow u really got from the beginning i love your video i just happen to scan my 2003 grand caravan and i have no codes except for abs spped sensor left and right plus also hydraulic pump circuit failure just like your scanner so now thank to you i will check my wiring first and hope i can fix it myself
+juan orellana cool , let me know
It's usually the sensors on the wheels causing the ABS codes. Sometimes they aren't tight enough and lose ground or they get yanked around during brake jobs which pulls the wires and ruins them.
I had the same code. Problem was with abs module. Sent module to Module Masters for repair. Repaired module works great.
Good job as you fund the problem- sure much easier to repair a broken wire than replace the module and mess with all those lines. I have a 96 Jeep GC and the main brake line rusted out years ago and that was at the ABS module, kind of a PITA to unhook especially since it has a bubble flare. Have you ever used that electrical connector cleaner for corrosion?
no I haven't. usually by the time I see something for a problem the connector is too far gone. that's why I've been saving all the harnesses from my engine swap jobs. u never know. I hate rusty brake line work as well. especially when the module is buried. who makes the cleaner?
James Danner CRC. Yeah you lucked out and always good to save harnesses as you never know
Thanks so much, James!! This was the problem on mine as well!
I have an '05 Grand Caravan and I'm getting the ABS code, "Hydraulic Pump Circuit Failure". The ABS light doesn't come on while driving around town; only after I've driven awhile and the car is hot. If I park and the engine cools a bit, the light will stay off until the car heats back up and then the ABS light will come back on. Could this still be due to the kind of electrical connection issue you found? Thanks!
I have the same issue with the abs/ brake light on. My blower motor stopped working at the same time the lights went on. Many mechanics tell me my fuse box no good and need to replace.
I'm not a mechanic but usually do my own jobs with TH-cam help but electronic I don't like to mess around. Too complicated
Thank you for the video was great I just picked up a 2005 grand caravan. I have the same issue brake light on ABS light on I will try out your method.
Great job. Thanks for doing the video.
Nice test light, logic probe.
Nice. Wonder why Chrysler likes to leave the underside of the fusebox exposed like that right near the wheel well with all the salt spray coming up and stuff...probably so people would upgrade their vehicles every 10 years haha
Thank you so much for all your help.
nice work,when you get a chance check out the tool the load pro test leads since you do alot of electrical work. you might like it
Good Job James
great video. saved the owner lots of money!
hello my name is richard i have a similar problem but my question is that does the engine fail? Thank you, I await your answer
Thanks for the vídeo have solve my problem
I thought you sounded like you had a "burgh" accent. Central pa here. I have the same problem with my caravan I think, I've got to tear it apart to make sure. Thank you for the info.
Thank you very much James Danner
I have Chrysler town & country 08 year model.
Did you have 4 indicators lit on your dashboard like I have?
I have BREAK ABS BAS and ESP coming up together every driving cycle when the car speed goes up to 20 km/h
DTC C2200 did you have the same error code?
Thank you in advance
Thank, that was exactly my issue as well!
Good job. You help fix my voyager
Very good video. THANK YOU. JIM S
Well done Danner, you sure know your stuff - Thanks :)
thanks again steve
fantastic video.i have the chrysler grand voyager and i have tested the same but dont findt the problem i have an error code 400,1 and abs lamp is on can ennybodey help me
+svein erik hermansen I'm not familiar with the codes from the dash cluster. U know anyone who has a scanner?
+James Danner ok ☺ no i Dont.and i have an abs light to. They inn Norway dont know enything ofte this car. and part is hard to get to.
+James Danner hi i mekanikk tolv me the scaner i telling rear wheel sensor. and abs modul...
When you disconnected the ABS Module behind battery on firewall did dash ABS Light go off?
Cool video the solus is nice to have even for the prices you get them for. I just don't see why the command capabilities were even needed when you still read the codes
2002 town and country I have the same code. I am able to activate it with the scanner. Does that mean the pump is ok
Other than the phosphorescent yellow ABS light glowing on the cluster, were there any specific symptoms noticed before the repair was completed; especially while using the brakes?
Example: grinding, pedal pulsations, or sporatic module activity at unnecessary times?
It was an auction car. Dont know the history. I bet it could have had some odd symptoms before total circuit failure
Great job on the troubleshooting and Video. I have a 2001 GDC with an intermittent problem. It just might be the same problem? By any chance has anyone found the part number for the terminals/connectors? I don't have any harnesses laying around. Again nice job. thx
OK, hoping for a bit of troubleshooting help. I have an '06 Caravan, stow n go seats, and an ABS/brake problem that no one seems able to fix. All rotors replaced, pads, and wheel sensors. Sometimes the ABS light is on with no problems, sometimes 1 of the 4 wheels is smoking hot, it seems to jump from 1 wheel to another. Brakes have been bled more times than I can count. Over 8X to the dealership in 18 months. Once, my foot went to the floor, but I knew enough to pump, so avoided the intersection. I don't know the codes, but most often, when the light is on, it says "wheel sensor" is to blame.. If I had 1 bad wheel consistently, I could see it, but all 4 have been replaced. What could possibly cause a random wheel to engage? When it happens, I'll go thru a 1/4 tank of gas in 2-3 miles, stopping every 1/2 to 1 miles to let the rotor cool, just to get home. After it cools, ignition off, the problem goes away, like it never happened. If you have any suggestions, I've got a new mechanic I can clue in on what to look at. There's only 44K on it, and I love the SUV, except for this ABS crap. Any time I'm going more than 5 miles now, I pull the ABS fuse.
Any chance anyone messed with the master cylinder pushrod adjustment? Maybe u are not fully disengaged. Or a brake light switch holding the pedal down slightly?
Pretty sure if it was the pushrod, the brake would be permanently applied, and pedal is free. I saw 'gears' for the front that the sensors read, a chance they are too rusty, but that doesn't explain why or how the rear could be engaging.. or does it? I mean, if it was occasionally missing a tooth, the front would engage, but if it's missing a tooth, then it wouldn't swing the other way and "see" one that's not there. Or would it? I even tried contacting Dodge to see if there was an issue with the computer, maybe something not big enough for a recall but important enough that the techs should have checked for the flaw. No answer.
P Huster I saw a bulletin on the push rod adjustment being slightly too tight and the hotter it got ,expansion would keep it slightly applied. Causing your symptoms. .if u had a wrench or socket with u when it acted up, try to loosen the 2 nuts at master cylinder a little and see if it can move again. As far as the teeth or tone rings. If there is a tooth imperfection, abs would go off for no reason and get worse the faster u went. Not hold a random brake on without release.
I wiggled the fuse and it worked.
Having the same problem I change out the abs pump and still have the no voltage at pump
cool... thank you man... very informative... i wonder if there is better faster way to check for that 12 volt at the pump... maybe looking at that diagram you have... did you get it from the dealer?
you gotta see if there is voltage all the way to the pump and it was buried. the wiring diagram was from Mitchell pro demand
Nice fix! Lucky it was there and not down at that ABS connector right.
yea. I could barely get my hand back there
hi danner
i want to know what symptoms it's does when it's an abs motor is failed
Hi, what are the symptoms of a not working ABS pump?
i like your detal good job i am in traning . Thanks
Nice find! Hope the customer appreciated you saving them a lot of money! Peace & quiet... I too like having the shop to myself, did you stay late or come in on a weekend?
I think it was a Saturday evening. I love it as well. no phones. no co workers. like u said. peace and quiet
What was the overall customer "complaint" as far as the operation of the vehicle? Was there brake problems? and if so, what were they?
I have these warning lights on in my 2007 Caravan. Once you drive it a bit, the computer turns off the ABS and it brakes normally. Been that way since I've had it for 3 years.
Hey James thank you very much for this video
+job bucio meza u r welcome
+job bucio meza you bet
Good job bro
4 lights just came on out of nowhere on my 08 van!! Abs,traction control,Airbag and Handbrake light?!? What happened
Chrysler happened!
Howdy, Hope anyone can help! I replaced an o2 sensor on '05 Dodge Grand Caravan. Took off windshield wipers, cowling, wiper motor and pan. So, had to disconnect wiring clip for the wiper motor to get motor pan off. It seems same wiring harness has something to do with the ABS. After o2 sensor job done. Went to pull van out of driveway and have stiff brake pedal and pretty much no brakes. I don't think it's the booster, did the simple diagnostic check on that. Could it be in that wiring harness? Anyone have any clues they can give me? I am a novice, just trying to help my kid pass emissions, and wind up with an even bigger problem...UGH
Great job man.
Good video mr danner
hey james 4 months ago i did comments on your video for the abs pump however i got a question for you now fuses,wiring, voltage is all there would you think that if the wheels speedd sensors are bad the abs light will come on from time to time i have not replace any of then my van is 2012 could that be the only thing that i need
+juan orellana alot of times an intermittent light is caused by a bad sensor or sensor wiring. If u know someone with a scanner, it should have set a code that will stay in memory for awhile even if the light is out
Great video as usual!
My last coupl eof cars the abs pump doesnt start up untill the wheels have done 3 or 4 rotations, so you'd have to drive the car a few meters before you got a pump code.
Great video
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.8L with a ABS light on the dash. Should I notice any difference in the breaks? My cheap code reader doesn't give me a error code.
Was thinking of going to a parts store where they read the codes for free to tell me what the problem is.
If a sensor is bad would that prevent the pump from coming on?
U should have normal brake system operation just no abs function with the light on
Hey guy; Good vid! If you have time i have question. My 2005 Dod Grand Caravan has had ABS light on for a few years.
Don't ask bout inspections:)))
I finally need to fix this. Cost of guessing mount up fffast.
I sent to Garage to scan looking for a direction as I had checked sensors and (rings), with no visible issues.
They said pump ABS would not power, no codes for sensors.
I removed battery and checked for power to plug on Module. 12 v and good ground to both heavy wired connectors. Top 2 positive, lower 2 ground
I did the ohm check on all sensors they checked ok. Also power to plus side on connectors close to each sensor.
However i tried the connect sensor pins to meter and set to A/C spinning tire I get no current detected on any sensors.
What I did not check while I had module plug off was pin 7 left side (holding the plug as it fits) is supposed to be powered as well.
I guess i need to get up and close to wiring diagram.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Best; Tom
I haven't been able to open the fuse area. ill have to try again.
Did you burn the old test light?!! Great video, customer happy?
nope. It will live forever
at 28:07 you can see 12.86 volts on the ABS pump V reading - it works it's just slow to update then you scrolled past it when it was running the next 2 times.
Yea i noticed that when i was editing. i was listening for the pump and totally missed it. im glad you guys are watching and paying attention to the vids. thank you
great diagnosis.
hi there again james one question for you p0009 engine positionsystem performance-bank 2 mean for a grand caravan 2002 can you help me on that one please im not sure if is mean 02 sensor for sure
I need a little more info like the engine size and vin digit if it's a 3.3l.
Usually the p00xx codes are cam timing codes . Like a jumped timing belt , stretched timing chain or vvt system issues
gracias por el video, saludos amigo
Can you show me the lines from the Master cylinder to the lines on the ABS.
I've had my 06 Grand Caravan in over a dozen times in 2 years, and still not fixed.. Sometimes ABS light on, but not always. It's jumped from all 4 brakes, 1 or 2 practically smoking, sometimes uneven braking, other times it's on the thruway. Rotors replaced 3X now all around. 2-3 sensors replaced. WHAT could be causing this?
+P Huster any chance the fluid is contaminated with something like power steering fluid and it attacked all the rubber. Just look at the condition of the seal on the reservoir and see. If it's swelled up
Nope, rubber looks fine.. There shouldn't be a way for extra pressure to skip from one wheel to another. Sometimes ABS light is on, but not this time. Right front is too hot for 999* no contact thermometer to read, just says 'HOT', all the others around 200*. Just sick of not being able to use it, never know when a wheel is getting hot. Dealership has supposedly gone over the whole braking system 8 times now, so what ever this is, it's not supposed to happen.
+P Huster wow. I've never run across that kind of problem
I got the same problem no POWER to motor i checo all tomorrow thanks 👍
You’re too good!
had the same issue and fixed the wire but I used 16-14 guage butt connector, is that ok or should I use 12-10 guage?
U will probably be ok. I would guess that unless abs is going off all the time. U won't be drawing too many Amps for a lighter wire
+Shaun Deloriaf worst case it would probably act like a fusible link and blow like a fuse if amps got too high
I pulled a connector with the same wires from another van at the wreckers. wires are the same just the connector used is 16-14 blue.
great info..thanks
I have a 2008 Dodge Caravan I bring it to the mechanic and he test it and say all the sensors are working but as soon as I move at least 10 or 20 miles an hour the ABS light would just come on could that be my problem
+Squire Oneil did he scan for codes?
Mine had light on all the time with no communication. I suppose it could be an intermittent connection at that terminal. It's not hard to flip the box over
got to love the CDJR harness retaining clips, NOT. FYI was smoke a stogie watching your video
nice. I like the backwoods honey berry. kinda look hand rolled
what was your code?
THANK YOU FROM MIAMI
is that aluminum foil on the end of your test light?? i couldnt tell though
no its scotch tape from when it was packed. its wrapped around the extension leads insulation and when I tried to pull it off, I stretched/ripped the insulation, so I left it there til I can get heat shrink that will fit it. now u can sleep tonight. Ha
oh ok. when r u going to be owning tha shop you work in
who knows. I still like working in the shop. adding all the administrative and being boss would be tough. I thought about doing something smaller myself and taking a teaching job I was offered. never know. this you tube stuff could open possibilities as well
youd have to shave the duck dynasty beard if you took the teaching job. how long did it take to grow?? mine grows in patchy.
Its been a year and a half now
I have a 05 town and country. abs and brake light on. I put the scanner and it can't find the problem. even mechanic couldn't find the read.
+Jose Vidrio let me know if your wire is broken/corroded as well
Hey man! Really appreciate the video it helped me fix my abs... I think. I had the tan wire (like you) and the other wire next to it (Gr/Rd) that were both corroded. I had to reuse my terminals because I don't have a spare wiring harness laying around. I got it all back together and now the car won't start. I noticed on that connector that the top row goes black, yellow, brown/white, green/purple. But on the integrated power module where that plugs in the top row on mine only has 2 metal prongs that line up with yellow and brown/white. So the black cable and green/purple cable seemingly plug into nothing. It SEEMS like in your video yours is the same but it's hard to see. Can you confirm? I'm not sure if maybe those corroded and that's why I'm having a no start situation.
+y2j514 sorry. It's been awhile since I did that.
So.now it just cranks over with a no start?
Or are there any other symptoms ?
James Danner thanks for the speedy reply. I actually worked on it this weekend. I couldn't figure out what was going on. I'm actually still not sure but I got it working. I think it was something to do with the security system. The key fob wasn't working either. I had the battery off the car for like 3 days so I think that was he problem. I actually took the whole integrated power module apart. Turns out those 2 wires in my other comment actually don't connect to anything odd enough.
I ended up taking the battery off over night and charging it (because trying to turn the engine over brought the voltage down a little bit ). Then when I plugged it back in, still didn't work - but I pulled the IOD fuse for a few minutes and put it back in. Still no go - repeat that process 2-3 times and it started working. Has been good since. Seems the security system went haywire. Thanks so much for the video though. I've got the ABS working and i got my instrument cluster working again also.
+y2j514 great! Thanks
funny, because of my abs and brake light, nny a.c. or top dash to check weather don't work either.