say it louder for the people in back 🗣️🗣️🗣️ (referring to bodice blocks) people forget that patternmaking/grading/designing is a whole career and people take so much time/money/resources to make a garment 🥲 i have books and trying to learn but either way I am so lost and still a beginner may spend 20x longer than someone who was taught how to 🫠 keep doing you Haley!! ❤ theres a space for home sewists 🏡 time is moneyy!!!
for reference today i spent 5 hours grading a pattern and it is so ill fitting I moved on to a pattern that was my size, but it would be nice if i knew how lol oh well 😅 such a beautiful garment and loved all the differences you made it really gave the gunne sax vibe 🧺
I am in the same boat. I graded a shirt pattern down and accidentally took way too much off the shoulders and waist. It took so long to grade and I thought I was being thoughtful about my adjustments lol.
I feel like even if you figure out every grading and patterning trick, fabric is still going to throw unexpected wrenches in the process. Adapt adapt adapt ❤
I just wanted to add my two cents about purchasing patterns vs altering a bodice block. When I started sewing I primarily used big 4 patterns I got on sale at Joann’s (it ranged from $1-$5 a pattern). I still have a large stash of patterns thanks to those sales. However, after the pandemic, I have been prioritizing buying patterns from indie pattern brands. I am spending more money per pattern now, but I am supporting fellow makers. So, yes I am “wasting money” by not doing a bodice block and altering it, but I am also giving back to the community in my own very small way.
Totally agree on buying indie brands and contributing to small businesses! I buy my patterns either secondhand (supporting a small resellers business) of the indie brands. An added perk of indie brands is there are many out there that have blocks more varied for different shaped people than the big 4 do!
Haley, I totally agree with you on the buying patterns versus using free thing. When you work a profession where the hourly gains you more than the cost of making the thing, then why not pay a small business owner for a pattern on Etsy? It's a win win because you don't lose as much and you support the growth of small business. I think most people put this qualification of free is always better because they are wealthy in time and not money, which is fair. But equally they should be able to empathize with me when I say I'd prefer to pay an expert or small business owner when I make more hourly than I could ever pay that person for the product or service at scale.
I totally agree that a lot of people with that perspective on free are more wealthy in time than money so it absolutely makes sense for them. I make enough money and am pretty time restricted so that method doesn't work as well for me. I think that is what is so great about sewing is everyone can do what works best and makes the most sense for them, we don't all have to have the same process and there is no "right" way. The other thing too is they might be richer in health than I am, for me it is pretty painful to trace and grade and move pieces around like that. I don't want to waste the time I feel well enough to do things like struggling to draft a pattern when there are so many great patterns already made out there!
Thank you SO MUCH for that bit at the end about how your time and labor are still costs that should be included when considering the end value of a project. It drives me up a wall when I see DIY folks advertise their DIY projects as a cheap alternative to buying something and then you look into it and it's not actually cheaper you're just exchanging the resource of money for the resources of time and labor. Which is great for some people! But like, when a person tells their audience "wow! this project only cost $15.82 in supplies" and there's no acknowledging that it also took 33 hours of labor I think they're being a little disingenuous about how much cheaper it is. It's only cheaper/more accessible if you have a lot of time and value it cheaply! Which is fair, for many people this works, but I think it's good to remind people their energy and labor and time all have their own value. Even if what you're doing is fun and you like it you're still doing *that* thing instead of 8 other fun things you could be doing. You don't get into this, probably for good reasons because it is a complex and touchy topic, but I also think when we remember our time and energy has inherent value it can also expose false economy when considering what kind of supplies to buy. As a knitter one thing I try and explain to newer knitters is that if you want to knit a sweater your time will, 100% of the time, be the most expensive part of the sweater and it's a fixed cost. There's no getting around it. A worsted or DK weight sweater will take EASILY 40 hours of your time and very likely a lot more, especially as a new knitter. By your own calculations that's easily $1200+ of your time no matter what. Is it worth buying the cheapest yarn on the market and then investing 40 hours of your time in it? Questionable. For sewing I don't think it's quite the same because you're not putting in *so* much time (and also yarn is very often reusable in a way fabric isn't) but I think it's still worth thinking about when you're choosing materials. If your dress will cost $500+ of your time no matter what, what are you investing in with that time? It might be skill, in which case using the cheapest materials possible could easily be the best way to go, but if your goal is a really great garment it's worth remembering it'll cost a lot in time no matter what you spend in materials. Investing even a little bit more can result in a much higher quality longer lasting piece. Anyway sorry for this rambling comment, your dress was beautiful but that last bit really resonated with me!
No need to apologize, this was a very thoughtful rant lol. Yes I feel like DIY is often sold on affordability, and yes it is often more financially affordabl but requires a large surplus of time. I think one of the most interesting part of a creative practice is how different everyone approaches the time vs money paradigm that we all face. While I see your points about investing in material if you are going to invest time I also know not everyone can afford to invest any extra money into their hobbies so they have to just get the cheapest supplies on the market. If their hobby gives them joy it doesn't matter if they're using cheap supplies. There are ways to find higher quality supplies for cheaper (thrifting, creative reuse centers, ebay, other secondhand/deadstock markets) but they are often more time intensive to source then just going to Joanns, amazon, or Walmart. I also think when you're learning it isn't worth it to invest too much in materials because you'll often make tons of mistakes, I know I did and am glad I didn't use anything expensive my first year of sewing. I think your last paragraph sums it up really well, ultimately everyone's creative process and what they value is different, and there is a lot of thought that has to be taken to make sure you're getting exactly what you want from a hobby. I love how much of dialog I see here and I think about how when I was starting to sew I valued cheap fabric and quicker to sew patterns but as I've gained skill I now much favor investing more in my materials and sewing a lot more intentionally than I did when I started. Even my own values from my sewing have changed a ton and I think there is likely even a day where I will deeply value pattern drafting myself, today is just not that day!
@@HaleyMarieVintage I mean, when I was talking about false economy I wasn't so much talking about Joann, or Walmart, as much as I was the idea that we can sometimes fall into the trap of buying supplies fundamentally unsuited to what we want to do because it's the superficially cheapest option. When you don't have a lot of money it can be hard to justify like, why should I go to Joann and get fabric for my sundress when this used polyester sheet set is only 6.99 at Savers? But realistically if the used polyester is too hot to be comfortable in the summer and looks kind of shabby because the fabric was already worn by the time you bought it so you almost never wear it did you really save money? It in the long run it might have really been cheaper to spend $5-10 more on Joann quilting cotton and end up with something you actually wear. That's what I mean by "false economy." I have been really poor--and honestly still don't have much money-- and I have fallen into this trap more than once, and I think once you wrap your head around the idea that your time and labor have inherent value it's easier to be more rational about yes you're going to spend $5 or $10 extra dollars to start with, but if you don't you might end up wasting $7. In a world that constantly undervalues certain kinds of skills and certain kinds of labor it really takes effort and practice to to unlearn that, and I think the break downs at the end of your videos really are probably helping people with that concept. (Also, this is not to say every sheet or curtain at the thrift store is bad, sometimes you totally luck out! But *most* of the time what's available at my Savers is used polyester that was never intended to be clothes in the first place.)
I think pattern drafting and sewing are two different hobbies, related of course, but different. I enjoy drafting patterns and figuring out how to make something more than actually cutting fabric and Making The Thing. So, for me, making something starting with a block is like having two fun projects.
Thank you! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!!!! I do not fit into Gunne Sax dresses or patterns and I am So VERY grateful that you demonstrated how I can make my very own Gunne Sax dress!!!!! ❤❤❤❤
OMG you twirling in your dress against the background of flowers is fantastic! It came out super lovely, and I learned a new technique with how you turned the edge with the lace! Well done and you made a well fitting and lively dress, yay you!
Your dress turned out so cute, and it's like a bit of witchcraft that you could see that dress in the pattern! Super inspirational and showed your talent so well.
I always use a paper cutter with pdf patterns! I always get free PDF patterns because I’m a proud cheapskate! Also I wore my only Gunnesax dress for HS graduation!
I love how this came out! It totally looks like an original Gunne Sax dress. I also agree with you on the time we put into things. Time isn't free and we shouldn't feel bad charging for it! :)
I absolutely love it! Super cute, looks very authentic. My view on "time is free" is that time is free if and only if the task is something you enjoy and want to do. Otherwise it's not, because you have to give up something better for it.
Wow!!! This is my favourite of all your gunne saxes. Love the shape and your floral fabric. Your lace work is amazing. Great idea. Thanks for finding an affordable pattern.
I love your project breakdowns! I really appreciate the emphasis on bodice blocks are not for everyone/not the "always" solution people make them out to be, monetary privilege, and as a disabled person (hello from a neighbor on eastside 🙂), that not everyone has the same 24 hours in a day!
Lovely Dress Haley! You did a fab job, love the colours together!!!! It is important to note that someone who has passive income does also need to coordinate repairs, maintenance, etc for their properties (or should be, unless they pay a company to do so or are overtly terrible property owners).
LOL no landlord I or any of my friends have rented from have ever cared or put work into their properties. Edited to add coordinating stuff like that is no where near 40 hours of work a week and ultimately their tenants labor is what pays their mortgage.
@@HaleyMarieVintage I agree some can be bad (I have had both) but lumping all in is pretty rude, assuming everyone of a particular set is one specific way? If the property owner does their own work or has a lot of properties it can easily take that much time. I think assuming things don’t take much time without actually having done it is also a bit gruff. Keep with your sewing and regular work, you do fab with it!
Yas this whole video is the best!! I love breaking down the stigma of you can only use gunne sax patterns to make the style of dress but you dont if you can see someone else show you how to go about it. Time is a value people should think about, especially if im spending less time to modify a preexisting pattern than learning a whole new skill to make my own pattern from scratch. This is how im determined to make my own gunne sax dresses but using a more cost effective way than trying to get a gunne sax pattern that because of size restrictions still would have to be modified if you dont fit in those sizes. I gotta find the pattern name and number ive found to make my own so others can have the knowledge. Edit: Pattern I found is New Look N6718 for any others that are curious
Oh yes please share the pattern you found, I think almost any princess line dress with slightly puffed sleeves would work but I am curious what you found!
I appreciate you explaining the other side of this, I am usually not a pattern user, I would rather draft from scratch because that's what's relaxing for me. I absolutely understand your perspective on it and I love that you've expressed it this way and I CAN understand it. Personally, other people's patterns stress me out, it feels like trying to learn a completely new language every single time and you pattern folks are fascinating to watch😆
That makes total sense to me, what works for everyone is so different and I think that is something I love about the creative process. Also I think I love the process of following different patterns because sometimes I learn a different way to do something I already know how to do and I like it better, but I also often ignore instructions and do it my way!
Completely agree on the bodice blocks! I have two kids and work 10hrs 4 days a week on top of that in a complicated (also tech) job that is mentally tiring! I have contemplated making my own patterns before now but I always just cannot summon the energy or motivation to actually do it and instead I like my pretty bought patterns ❤❤ lovely dress by the way!
Thank you for the tip about adding a trim to a curved neckline! I’m going to try that with a dress I made that’s sitting in my to do basket. And I love using vintage/preowned patterns. I feel connected to sewists from the past. My grandmother made my mom’s wedding dress that I then wore without a pattern. How??? 😂 Well she made it in 1947 (I wore it in 1985; yes I’m old) so I think those skills were more prevalent and she lived in a very small town in the midst of farms. Patterns probably weren’t that available. One great thing about this craft is how many different ways there are to express yourself. Do not feel like you have to justify your use of patterns.
I love vintage patterns for the same reason, I especially love when I can see notes or past adjustments the previous seamstress made. Also back then ready to wear wasn't as prevalent so more people had sewing skills so you had more people to potentially trouble shoot things with!
I had a Gunney Sax dress for my sister's wedding. There is a trick for keeping sashes out of the toilet. You roll the back of the skirt up, roll the sashes into the skirt, and then pull slightly to the front.
A little trick with ties when going to the toilet. If you flip the hem of the skirt up and over the tie so the tie is tucked inside you'll miss the annoying problem of ties getting in the way
I am in AWE that it only took 2 hours to cute, trace, and adjust the pattern. I agree with everything you said about buying patterns vs drafting your own. Time may be money in our society, but we need to have some time for nothing but our own enjoyment! And if drafting patterns removed that joy, then it defeats the purpose!
This dress is gorgeous and you did such a wonderful job on it. I love the lace but I can never understand the instructions 😅 so I haven't ever added it to any of my pieces. But this is beautiful. The colors, the fabric, the style, everything is so pretty. Great job!
This dress is adorable and fits you just perfectly. Thanks for showing us how you altered the pattern. Doing that is so individualistic and I appreciate seeing how different people do it. It helps me think outside of the, "I've always done it that way" method.
Regarding bodice blocks: I do understand when someone like you or Evelyn Woods argue for using patterns and learning the necessary technique to alter them for your individual body once. I still stick with my blocks. Why? Because the challenge of making the pattern and seeing it come to life is what I love about sewing. Not the needle and thread action or cutting, no, the pattern making and wearing the garment after is what brings me joy. Yes, it takes about as much time as cutting and adapting a readymade pattern and the fact that I had no formal training, just lots of videos by The Closet Historian, so I do have some failures... But still: I HATE cutting readymade patterns. I love doing endless variations on the same basic recipe, in sewing as in cooking or dancing. So, as a former freelancer with a business background I agree that we shouldn't only be thinking of how much money you could have earned in the same amount of hours. We should also consider which step of the process bring us joy in our hobby. I found Mariah Patties video about only wearing selfmades very enlightening where she categorized what motivates people to make their clothes. Some like the process and others just the product (like me), some do it for individual fashion or size or ethical reasons... I found it quite helpful to think on that and then adapt steps of my process for more joy. So, I'd say try different techniques and choose what fits best for YOU.
I think it is awesome you love pattern drafting! My favorite part of sewing is seeing everything start to come together through the process of sewing and ironing. Totally agree, what works best for any sewist is completely unique to what part of the process they enjoy!
While watching (listening) to this I cut out and started sticking together a sloper pattern because my attempts to make one from scratch have been inconclusive and frustrating, but patterns never fit me right so I want to try and draft from a block if I can get that fit right just once. Also I love the closet historian and want to finally try and make something from one of her videos 😂 Personally I don't put a monetary value on my time if I'm doing something I enjoy and it's for myself, or to be a gift, but if anyone asks me to make them something now I will assign at least my day job hourly rate to the project (and then no one wants it done after all)
I lover her videos too! Wishing you lots of luck on your sloper, just because it isn't the right process for me right now doesn't mean it won't be the right process for you. And I agree, I also charge my day job rate if someone wants something done and once I do that they disappear ✨
You say pattern hacking, I call it pattern MacGyvering 😁. Gorgeous work. Hope the latest flare is easing off for you. This is also a fab video to do (and I also LOVE Mood free patterns). I also definitely agree on buying patterns - or at least donating something. I couldn’t pattern grade at all, so I massively appreciate the skill, particularly in smaller businesses, who do a lot of work to suggest how to fit patterns and offer larger bust sizes, which the Big 4 just don’t do. I also agree with the point about spending time v buying a decent pattern which will result in less fiddling, as well as less PEM, pain etc. it’s not always possible, but even when I Macagyver patterns, I’m usually working from a well fitting base already, so the time shouldn’t be terrible, which obviously puts less strain on me. Also, if a fabric is showing a tendency to show things like pockets with a like-on-like colour, is it an idea to use perhaps a beige/flesh coloured fabric akin to the idea of nude coloured underwear to make them show less? (I mean it may not help with fabric weight, but I wonder if it would work?).
I've been in such a flare pattern lately so just getting through day by day. Also really agree with small businesses/indie patterns providing so much on how to alter, frankly I have never sewn with a modern big 4, but I have sewn several indie brands and been so impressed by the level of care they take to help deliver a high quality pattern that doesn't take a million adjustments to fit. I wear slips that are not always the same color, so I think even a beige pocket wouldn't quite work for me. However I do think it would work for the color problem and quite frankly the fabric weight doesn't bother me.
This is so cute! I'm becoming more confident in the possibility of being a good sewist! Love the help and encouragement you and the other ladies are pouring out for us!
as always, beautiful. Those dresses were such the thing when I was a teen. I couldn't understand why anyone would want to wear a "sack" lol. eventually I was enlightened, but frankly, my taste ran a little more retro even then. I find the dresses actually prettier now than then.
It's a question of HOW you spend your time. At one point, I had 3 choices of how to get to work. Drive, Take the bus (fare) Take rapid transit (about 4 times longer than driving and about the same cost). Several days a week I took rapid transit. Yes, I chose to spend more of my time commuting but I also was able to spend that time reading. Which was difficult to squeeze into any other part of the day. How you spend your time...or the value of your time. Working on a dress right now that is frustrating and taking way longer than it should. I have chosen to spend my time pulling out long ago learned skills that take a long time to do because I am enjoying spending my time on it...even though it is involving a lot of swearing (Seriously, 3rd time I've made the dress, I shouldn't be having so many problems...but enjoying...)
When you're easing in a curved piece put the piece that needs to be eased on the bottom, because the feet on the machine normally pull the bottom fabric through a little bit faster and will do a large part of the easing for you
Re: drafting your own patters- it's also an investment to learn how to do it! I've been interested in drafting for a while, but haven't committed to learning because I simply don't have time to learn a new skill on top of my other hobbies. At this point I think I'd rather pay someone who knows what they're doing and still be able to make the things I want. Which isn't to say that I'll never get around to pattern drafting, it's just not a priority right now.
Oh absolutely, I think there is a world where I desire to draft my own patterns as well, I'm just not in that world yet. For now I most enjoy working with the fabric and will leave the pattern drafting to the pros!
Since Gunne Sax is a brand, would it not be more appropriate to call them Prairie Style? That is what the style was called. There were several brands that made Prairie style dresses. I have a Gunne Sax dress that I would not call Prairie Style. I was a kid in the 70's. My older sister had the more Prairie Style ones, I liked the new romantic looking Gunne Sax. Jessica McClintok was with Gunne Sax until 2013. Not all Gunne Sax are Prairie Style.
I agree, using a specific brand to define a style is usually not a good idea. Gunne Sax as a brand don't seem to mind, but try make a "chanel jacket" or " Magnolia pearl something " and you get sued quicker than lightning strikes 😮. Plus prairie style is a very cute name and very exact description of the style.
I hear you both on this and don't disagree and am well aware, but at the end of the day more people who are my audience search for the term "Gunne Sax" than "Prairie Dress" and at the end of the day I wanted to make sure people could find this.
I grabbed it off amazon, if you look for rolls of tracing paper it should come up just read the dimensions carefully I definitely ordered one that was far too wide to be practical for my setup lol
To be the devil's advocate (ignore if you are not in the headspace for it! ♥tl;dr I think both ways of approaching it are 100% valid), I think we can presume that with a good bodice pattern block you won't have to deal with anything like the fit issues that can come up with commercial patterns. You could always take in or out in places after comparing to the intended size on the envelope but we humans are all squishy in our own unique way. So I can see both points. For someone, dealing with fitting a dress after sewing a commercial pattern can be too much. They might be very much not the typical size, shape, and symmetry combo expected by the pattern. With limited movement or energy deficit and without a friend or family member willing or able to help, fitting might be next to impossible. The risk of not fitting might not be worth it then. On the other hand, another person might prefer the security a step-by-step recipe offers because they can relax and follow a written pattern. They might be close to a size or are used to the patterns enough to know beforehand where to adjust. And let's not ignore the strange magic called draping. I tend not to go either way. On some days, dyslexia makes it hard for me to decode how to do stuff in a written form, while thinking about how to construct something is like a fun jigsaw puzzle. And considering I'm (as most living breathing humans are) not very close to anything close to the sizing system, they are fairly useless in that regard as well. I was taught some years ago how to make a skirt/bodice/pants block and even though I don't have my notes, I know I can find the necessary information and make myself one without much trouble. Or rather it would make a fun project of the aforementioned jigsaw puzzle kind. However, my size has been fluctuating so much that making any kind of block properly is absolutely pointless and, to put it bluntly, a waste of resources. So I mix and match - often I use a "free" or an indie pattern (e.g. coquelicot skit) or take one from a garment I already own and modify the heck out of them. Best of both worlds imo. And sometimes I just have a "eureka" in the shower and trust that hunch with something very vaguely resembling "drafting" and rarely including paper. I like this approach less as it can be stressful for those of are sent into a serious self-hate mode whenever they cut something wrong. Honestly, my view is that as long as it works for you, it's the best way to do stuff. Whether it's using a pattern, working with a block... or pulling stuff directly our of one's butt. Or even that magic stuff with pining fabric to a soft human shaped stuff.
First off thank you for the "ignore if you're not in the headspace for it" it made me feel very cared for, cuz I love a discussion but sometimes am not in the headspace for one. I'm fully with you, either way is 100% valid and all about what works best for the person making the garment. I do have the privilege of being relatively close to standard block measurements (except for my butt which is why you'll rarely see me making patterns that I have to worry about it). I have many friends who do not measure near a standard block so seeing them drafting off their blocks makes total sense to me. I even think there is a day where I will move to using more self-drafting alongside my patterns. When I have a home where I could have a proper sewing space that would accommodate my disabilities better it would be far more appealing to me. Where I tend to get frustrated is often when I am out and about in the sewing world I run into people who shove "only drafting is a valid way to sew garments" down people's throats. I have never run into someone who speaks that way about patterns but I'd be rich if I had a dime for every person who dismisses people who sew patterns as less thoughtful, skilled, or money-wasters and see themselves as far superior for drafting their own patterns. I've had many of these experiences recently and had some feeling about it I needed to get out lol. Thank you for such a thoughtful comment Michaela!
@@HaleyMarieVintage Yeah. People who think "one/my way is the right way" usually haven't considered that there might be a reason one person prefers another option. We don't live in an ideal world, in uniform bodies, and with shared minds to have one objectively right way to do stuff. We are also everchanging and have to find a way to adapt to our new conditions. It's often frustrating to deal with people who are so rigid that they are unwilling to accept other's processes as an option. It seems to me that they are either very lucky or very unhappy and in need of a nice warm cup of tea and a long talk. (Un)fortunately, we can't give strangers unsolicited untrained to-go therapy whenever and wherever they shout something into the universe, wanting to be heard. We would burn out and become bitter recluses ourselves. And to be honest, I'm not sure it would be helpful for them in the long term anyway. 😄 I'm glad the gentle warning was of help. I always worry something like it might be read as condescending. It's a risk I'll gladly take to make sure that I treat others with the consideration and care I would want to be shown myself. ♥ When you think of it that way, caring about others is the height of selfishness, hehe. 😋
say it louder for the people in back 🗣️🗣️🗣️ (referring to bodice blocks) people forget that patternmaking/grading/designing is a whole career and people take so much time/money/resources to make a garment 🥲 i have books and trying to learn but either way I am so lost and still a beginner may spend 20x longer than someone who was taught how to 🫠 keep doing you Haley!! ❤ theres a space for home sewists 🏡 time is moneyy!!!
for reference today i spent 5 hours grading a pattern and it is so ill fitting I moved on to a pattern that was my size, but it would be nice if i knew how lol oh well 😅 such a beautiful garment and loved all the differences you made it really gave the gunne sax vibe 🧺
Thank you! and ugh yeah I feel that, grading patterns is hard, I've been lucky and only have had to do a few and it is ROUGH
I am in the same boat. I graded a shirt pattern down and accidentally took way too much off the shoulders and waist. It took so long to grade and I thought I was being thoughtful about my adjustments lol.
I feel like even if you figure out every grading and patterning trick, fabric is still going to throw unexpected wrenches in the process. Adapt adapt adapt ❤
I just wanted to add my two cents about purchasing patterns vs altering a bodice block. When I started sewing I primarily used big 4 patterns I got on sale at Joann’s (it ranged from $1-$5 a pattern). I still have a large stash of patterns thanks to those sales. However, after the pandemic, I have been prioritizing buying patterns from indie pattern brands. I am spending more money per pattern now, but I am supporting fellow makers. So, yes I am “wasting money” by not doing a bodice block and altering it, but I am also giving back to the community in my own very small way.
Totally agree on buying indie brands and contributing to small businesses! I buy my patterns either secondhand (supporting a small resellers business) of the indie brands. An added perk of indie brands is there are many out there that have blocks more varied for different shaped people than the big 4 do!
Haley, I totally agree with you on the buying patterns versus using free thing. When you work a profession where the hourly gains you more than the cost of making the thing, then why not pay a small business owner for a pattern on Etsy? It's a win win because you don't lose as much and you support the growth of small business.
I think most people put this qualification of free is always better because they are wealthy in time and not money, which is fair. But equally they should be able to empathize with me when I say I'd prefer to pay an expert or small business owner when I make more hourly than I could ever pay that person for the product or service at scale.
I totally agree that a lot of people with that perspective on free are more wealthy in time than money so it absolutely makes sense for them. I make enough money and am pretty time restricted so that method doesn't work as well for me. I think that is what is so great about sewing is everyone can do what works best and makes the most sense for them, we don't all have to have the same process and there is no "right" way.
The other thing too is they might be richer in health than I am, for me it is pretty painful to trace and grade and move pieces around like that. I don't want to waste the time I feel well enough to do things like struggling to draft a pattern when there are so many great patterns already made out there!
All of a sudden I'm back in high school in 1974 looking at the cool dresses the rich girls wore. You nailed it!
Thank you!
I was a teenager when Gunne Sax was the “in thing”, this is the best version of a dupe I’ve seen! Great job❤
Thank you! I've made a ton of the gunnesax designed simplicity patterns over the years which i think helped me construct them better!
Thank you SO MUCH for that bit at the end about how your time and labor are still costs that should be included when considering the end value of a project. It drives me up a wall when I see DIY folks advertise their DIY projects as a cheap alternative to buying something and then you look into it and it's not actually cheaper you're just exchanging the resource of money for the resources of time and labor. Which is great for some people! But like, when a person tells their audience "wow! this project only cost $15.82 in supplies" and there's no acknowledging that it also took 33 hours of labor I think they're being a little disingenuous about how much cheaper it is. It's only cheaper/more accessible if you have a lot of time and value it cheaply! Which is fair, for many people this works, but I think it's good to remind people their energy and labor and time all have their own value. Even if what you're doing is fun and you like it you're still doing *that* thing instead of 8 other fun things you could be doing.
You don't get into this, probably for good reasons because it is a complex and touchy topic, but I also think when we remember our time and energy has inherent value it can also expose false economy when considering what kind of supplies to buy. As a knitter one thing I try and explain to newer knitters is that if you want to knit a sweater your time will, 100% of the time, be the most expensive part of the sweater and it's a fixed cost. There's no getting around it. A worsted or DK weight sweater will take EASILY 40 hours of your time and very likely a lot more, especially as a new knitter. By your own calculations that's easily $1200+ of your time no matter what. Is it worth buying the cheapest yarn on the market and then investing 40 hours of your time in it? Questionable.
For sewing I don't think it's quite the same because you're not putting in *so* much time (and also yarn is very often reusable in a way fabric isn't) but I think it's still worth thinking about when you're choosing materials. If your dress will cost $500+ of your time no matter what, what are you investing in with that time? It might be skill, in which case using the cheapest materials possible could easily be the best way to go, but if your goal is a really great garment it's worth remembering it'll cost a lot in time no matter what you spend in materials. Investing even a little bit more can result in a much higher quality longer lasting piece.
Anyway sorry for this rambling comment, your dress was beautiful but that last bit really resonated with me!
No need to apologize, this was a very thoughtful rant lol.
Yes I feel like DIY is often sold on affordability, and yes it is often more financially affordabl but requires a large surplus of time. I think one of the most interesting part of a creative practice is how different everyone approaches the time vs money paradigm that we all face.
While I see your points about investing in material if you are going to invest time I also know not everyone can afford to invest any extra money into their hobbies so they have to just get the cheapest supplies on the market. If their hobby gives them joy it doesn't matter if they're using cheap supplies. There are ways to find higher quality supplies for cheaper (thrifting, creative reuse centers, ebay, other secondhand/deadstock markets) but they are often more time intensive to source then just going to Joanns, amazon, or Walmart. I also think when you're learning it isn't worth it to invest too much in materials because you'll often make tons of mistakes, I know I did and am glad I didn't use anything expensive my first year of sewing.
I think your last paragraph sums it up really well, ultimately everyone's creative process and what they value is different, and there is a lot of thought that has to be taken to make sure you're getting exactly what you want from a hobby. I love how much of dialog I see here and I think about how when I was starting to sew I valued cheap fabric and quicker to sew patterns but as I've gained skill I now much favor investing more in my materials and sewing a lot more intentionally than I did when I started. Even my own values from my sewing have changed a ton and I think there is likely even a day where I will deeply value pattern drafting myself, today is just not that day!
@@HaleyMarieVintage I mean, when I was talking about false economy I wasn't so much talking about Joann, or Walmart, as much as I was the idea that we can sometimes fall into the trap of buying supplies fundamentally unsuited to what we want to do because it's the superficially cheapest option. When you don't have a lot of money it can be hard to justify like, why should I go to Joann and get fabric for my sundress when this used polyester sheet set is only 6.99 at Savers? But realistically if the used polyester is too hot to be comfortable in the summer and looks kind of shabby because the fabric was already worn by the time you bought it so you almost never wear it did you really save money? It in the long run it might have really been cheaper to spend $5-10 more on Joann quilting cotton and end up with something you actually wear. That's what I mean by "false economy."
I have been really poor--and honestly still don't have much money-- and I have fallen into this trap more than once, and I think once you wrap your head around the idea that your time and labor have inherent value it's easier to be more rational about yes you're going to spend $5 or $10 extra dollars to start with, but if you don't you might end up wasting $7. In a world that constantly undervalues certain kinds of skills and certain kinds of labor it really takes effort and practice to to unlearn that, and I think the break downs at the end of your videos really are probably helping people with that concept.
(Also, this is not to say every sheet or curtain at the thrift store is bad, sometimes you totally luck out! But *most* of the time what's available at my Savers is used polyester that was never intended to be clothes in the first place.)
I look forward to a new video every Friday.
Beautiful dress, what a great "Gunne Sax" inspired dress.
I think pattern drafting and sewing are two different hobbies, related of course, but different. I enjoy drafting patterns and figuring out how to make something more than actually cutting fabric and Making The Thing. So, for me, making something starting with a block is like having two fun projects.
You've just made gunne sax size inclusive! Love it!
the clear sparkly eye makeup is giving!
Thank you!
Thank you! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!!!! I do not fit into Gunne Sax dresses or patterns and I am So VERY grateful that you demonstrated how I can make my very own Gunne Sax dress!!!!! ❤❤❤❤
Yay! So glad I could help!
OMG you twirling in your dress against the background of flowers is fantastic! It came out super lovely, and I learned a new technique with how you turned the edge with the lace! Well done and you made a well fitting and lively dress, yay you!
Thank you, I'm glad you found a useful technique!
Your dress turned out so cute, and it's like a bit of witchcraft that you could see that dress in the pattern! Super inspirational and showed your talent so well.
I didn't know for sure if it would go they way I invisioned so I was thrilled when it did!
I always use a paper cutter with pdf patterns! I always get free PDF patterns because I’m a proud cheapskate! Also I wore my only Gunnesax dress for HS graduation!
I love how this came out! It totally looks like an original Gunne Sax dress. I also agree with you on the time we put into things. Time isn't free and we shouldn't feel bad charging for it! :)
Thank you!
Ha! 6 million pins! Oh yes!
This brilliant Hailey! Thank you for making this so accessible.
Always 6 million pins.
I absolutely love it! Super cute, looks very authentic. My view on "time is free" is that time is free if and only if the task is something you enjoy and want to do. Otherwise it's not, because you have to give up something better for it.
Totally agree!
OMG I think it came out so well!!! It looks adorable and like it would be comfortable and swushy!!!
I was thinking that the literal only thing I would've done differently is to add pockets.
As I stare at a pattern that doesn't have pockets ... 😂
Luckily pockets are usually easy enough to add!
@@HaleyMarieVintage Yes!
Wow!!! This is my favourite of all your gunne saxes. Love the shape and your floral fabric. Your lace work is amazing. Great idea. Thanks for finding an affordable pattern.
thank you!
Very pretty!! Nice work!
I love your project breakdowns! I really appreciate the emphasis on bodice blocks are not for everyone/not the "always" solution people make them out to be, monetary privilege, and as a disabled person (hello from a neighbor on eastside 🙂), that not everyone has the same 24 hours in a day!
Thanks, Abby!
Lovely Dress Haley! You did a fab job, love the colours together!!!! It is important to note that someone who has passive income does also need to coordinate repairs, maintenance, etc for their properties (or should be, unless they pay a company to do so or are overtly terrible property owners).
LOL no landlord I or any of my friends have rented from have ever cared or put work into their properties. Edited to add coordinating stuff like that is no where near 40 hours of work a week and ultimately their tenants labor is what pays their mortgage.
@@HaleyMarieVintage I agree some can be bad (I have had both) but lumping all in is pretty rude, assuming everyone of a particular set is one specific way? If the property owner does their own work or has a lot of properties it can easily take that much time. I think assuming things don’t take much time without actually having done it is also a bit gruff.
Keep with your sewing and regular work, you do fab with it!
I love this dress! And thank you for making the process so simple. I can't wait to use some of the mountains of trim in my stash to give this a try. 😀
Yay! I'm so glad I can help you use your mountains of trim!
Yas this whole video is the best!! I love breaking down the stigma of you can only use gunne sax patterns to make the style of dress but you dont if you can see someone else show you how to go about it. Time is a value people should think about, especially if im spending less time to modify a preexisting pattern than learning a whole new skill to make my own pattern from scratch. This is how im determined to make my own gunne sax dresses but using a more cost effective way than trying to get a gunne sax pattern that because of size restrictions still would have to be modified if you dont fit in those sizes.
I gotta find the pattern name and number ive found to make my own so others can have the knowledge.
Edit: Pattern I found is New Look N6718 for any others that are curious
Oh yes please share the pattern you found, I think almost any princess line dress with slightly puffed sleeves would work but I am curious what you found!
@@HaleyMarieVintage its New Look N6718 which has princess seams and a ruffle built into the pattern!!
I appreciate you explaining the other side of this, I am usually not a pattern user, I would rather draft from scratch because that's what's relaxing for me. I absolutely understand your perspective on it and I love that you've expressed it this way and I CAN understand it. Personally, other people's patterns stress me out, it feels like trying to learn a completely new language every single time and you pattern folks are fascinating to watch😆
That makes total sense to me, what works for everyone is so different and I think that is something I love about the creative process. Also I think I love the process of following different patterns because sometimes I learn a different way to do something I already know how to do and I like it better, but I also often ignore instructions and do it my way!
So cute! Beautifully done!
Completely agree on the bodice blocks! I have two kids and work 10hrs 4 days a week on top of that in a complicated (also tech) job that is mentally tiring! I have contemplated making my own patterns before now but I always just cannot summon the energy or motivation to actually do it and instead I like my pretty bought patterns ❤❤ lovely dress by the way!
Thank you! And same, my job is really creatively demanding so it's nice to be able to just follow a pattern and turn my brain off a bit.
Thank you for the tip about adding a trim to a curved neckline! I’m going to try that with a dress I made that’s sitting in my to do basket. And I love using vintage/preowned patterns. I feel connected to sewists from the past. My grandmother made my mom’s wedding dress that I then wore without a pattern. How??? 😂 Well she made it in 1947 (I wore it in 1985; yes I’m old) so I think those skills were more prevalent and she lived in a very small town in the midst of farms. Patterns probably weren’t that available. One great thing about this craft is how many different ways there are to express yourself. Do not feel like you have to justify your use of patterns.
I love vintage patterns for the same reason, I especially love when I can see notes or past adjustments the previous seamstress made. Also back then ready to wear wasn't as prevalent so more people had sewing skills so you had more people to potentially trouble shoot things with!
So pretty🎉❤
I had a Gunney Sax dress for my sister's wedding. There is a trick for keeping sashes out of the toilet. You roll the back of the skirt up, roll the sashes into the skirt, and then pull slightly to the front.
That makes sense to me lol, I also am infamously clumsy and if it can end up in a toilet by accident it does!
A little trick with ties when going to the toilet. If you flip the hem of the skirt up and over the tie so the tie is tucked inside you'll miss the annoying problem of ties getting in the way
I am in AWE that it only took 2 hours to cute, trace, and adjust the pattern.
I agree with everything you said about buying patterns vs drafting your own. Time may be money in our society, but we need to have some time for nothing but our own enjoyment! And if drafting patterns removed that joy, then it defeats the purpose!
Thank you!
Haley love the dress this style really suits you.
Thank you!
2 of my prom dresses were Gunne Sax. You have done it justice. Well done.
Thank you!
Looks amazing!
Very pretty, haley. Great work.
This dress is gorgeous and you did such a wonderful job on it. I love the lace but I can never understand the instructions 😅 so I haven't ever added it to any of my pieces. But this is beautiful. The colors, the fabric, the style, everything is so pretty. Great job!
Thank you! Also I promise lace isn't too scary, once you do it the first time you'll laugh at how easy it is!
This dress is adorable and fits you just perfectly. Thanks for showing us how you altered the pattern. Doing that is so individualistic and I appreciate seeing how different people do it. It helps me think outside of the, "I've always done it that way" method.
Yeah I feel like my way is mostly how I made it up, and random bits of knowledge I've gathered over the years.
It's lovely really suits you.😊
Regarding bodice blocks: I do understand when someone like you or Evelyn Woods argue for using patterns and learning the necessary technique to alter them for your individual body once. I still stick with my blocks. Why? Because the challenge of making the pattern and seeing it come to life is what I love about sewing. Not the needle and thread action or cutting, no, the pattern making and wearing the garment after is what brings me joy. Yes, it takes about as much time as cutting and adapting a readymade pattern and the fact that I had no formal training, just lots of videos by The Closet Historian, so I do have some failures... But still: I HATE cutting readymade patterns. I love doing endless variations on the same basic recipe, in sewing as in cooking or dancing.
So, as a former freelancer with a business background I agree that we shouldn't only be thinking of how much money you could have earned in the same amount of hours. We should also consider which step of the process bring us joy in our hobby. I found Mariah Patties video about only wearing selfmades very enlightening where she categorized what motivates people to make their clothes. Some like the process and others just the product (like me), some do it for individual fashion or size or ethical reasons... I found it quite helpful to think on that and then adapt steps of my process for more joy.
So, I'd say try different techniques and choose what fits best for YOU.
I think it is awesome you love pattern drafting! My favorite part of sewing is seeing everything start to come together through the process of sewing and ironing. Totally agree, what works best for any sewist is completely unique to what part of the process they enjoy!
While watching (listening) to this I cut out and started sticking together a sloper pattern because my attempts to make one from scratch have been inconclusive and frustrating, but patterns never fit me right so I want to try and draft from a block if I can get that fit right just once. Also I love the closet historian and want to finally try and make something from one of her videos 😂 Personally I don't put a monetary value on my time if I'm doing something I enjoy and it's for myself, or to be a gift, but if anyone asks me to make them something now I will assign at least my day job hourly rate to the project (and then no one wants it done after all)
I lover her videos too! Wishing you lots of luck on your sloper, just because it isn't the right process for me right now doesn't mean it won't be the right process for you. And I agree, I also charge my day job rate if someone wants something done and once I do that they disappear ✨
You say pattern hacking, I call it pattern MacGyvering 😁. Gorgeous work. Hope the latest flare is easing off for you. This is also a fab video to do (and I also LOVE Mood free patterns).
I also definitely agree on buying patterns - or at least donating something. I couldn’t pattern grade at all, so I massively appreciate the skill, particularly in smaller businesses, who do a lot of work to suggest how to fit patterns and offer larger bust sizes, which the Big 4 just don’t do. I also agree with the point about spending time v buying a decent pattern which will result in less fiddling, as well as less PEM, pain etc. it’s not always possible, but even when I Macagyver patterns, I’m usually working from a well fitting base already, so the time shouldn’t be terrible, which obviously puts less strain on me.
Also, if a fabric is showing a tendency to show things like pockets with a like-on-like colour, is it an idea to use perhaps a beige/flesh coloured fabric akin to the idea of nude coloured underwear to make them show less? (I mean it may not help with fabric weight, but I wonder if it would work?).
I've been in such a flare pattern lately so just getting through day by day.
Also really agree with small businesses/indie patterns providing so much on how to alter, frankly I have never sewn with a modern big 4, but I have sewn several indie brands and been so impressed by the level of care they take to help deliver a high quality pattern that doesn't take a million adjustments to fit.
I wear slips that are not always the same color, so I think even a beige pocket wouldn't quite work for me. However I do think it would work for the color problem and quite frankly the fabric weight doesn't bother me.
This is so cute! I'm becoming more confident in the possibility of being a good sewist! Love the help and encouragement you and the other ladies are pouring out for us!
You can do it! It just takes time and practice!
Lovely!
oooo new dress added to my fall sewing plans. great video!
and totally agree with your insights regarding free and/or PDF patterns.
Yay if you make it I want to see it!
as always, beautiful. Those dresses were such the thing when I was a teen. I couldn't understand why anyone would want to wear a "sack" lol. eventually I was enlightened, but frankly, my taste ran a little more retro even then. I find the dresses actually prettier now than then.
They definitely don't float everyone's boat!
It's a question of HOW you spend your time. At one point, I had 3 choices of how to get to work. Drive, Take the bus (fare) Take rapid transit (about 4 times longer than driving and about the same cost). Several days a week I took rapid transit. Yes, I chose to spend more of my time commuting but I also was able to spend that time reading. Which was difficult to squeeze into any other part of the day.
How you spend your time...or the value of your time. Working on a dress right now that is frustrating and taking way longer than it should. I have chosen to spend my time pulling out long ago learned skills that take a long time to do because I am enjoying spending my time on it...even though it is involving a lot of swearing (Seriously, 3rd time I've made the dress, I shouldn't be having so many problems...but enjoying...)
Amazing 🤩
I deffently intend to try use this pattern already downloadet it thanks for showing have been looking for the pattern for ages
yay! I will want to see it if you make it up!
When you're easing in a curved piece put the piece that needs to be eased on the bottom, because the feet on the machine normally pull the bottom fabric through a little bit faster and will do a large part of the easing for you
Lol I literally learned this on tiktok today, thank you!
Hi Haley Marie. I love the floral material you used. I think the dress is so cottage core which I love about it
Thank you!
Well done! Great 'hack', great fit!
Thank you!
Re: drafting your own patters- it's also an investment to learn how to do it! I've been interested in drafting for a while, but haven't committed to learning because I simply don't have time to learn a new skill on top of my other hobbies. At this point I think I'd rather pay someone who knows what they're doing and still be able to make the things I want. Which isn't to say that I'll never get around to pattern drafting, it's just not a priority right now.
Oh absolutely, I think there is a world where I desire to draft my own patterns as well, I'm just not in that world yet. For now I most enjoy working with the fabric and will leave the pattern drafting to the pros!
Time is not free! Know your worth.
Since Gunne Sax is a brand, would it not be more appropriate to call them Prairie Style? That is what the style was called. There were several brands that made Prairie style dresses. I have a Gunne Sax dress that I would not call Prairie Style. I was a kid in the 70's. My older sister had the more Prairie Style ones, I liked the new romantic looking Gunne Sax. Jessica McClintok was with Gunne Sax until 2013. Not all Gunne Sax are Prairie Style.
I agree, using a specific brand to define a style is usually not a good idea. Gunne Sax as a brand don't seem to mind, but try make a "chanel jacket" or " Magnolia pearl something " and you get sued quicker than lightning strikes 😮. Plus prairie style is a very cute name and very exact description of the style.
I hear you both on this and don't disagree and am well aware, but at the end of the day more people who are my audience search for the term "Gunne Sax" than "Prairie Dress" and at the end of the day I wanted to make sure people could find this.
@@HaleyMarieVintage I get it.
💜💜💜
Too funny how close the colors are in the dress you’re wearing and the one you’re making. I think we know what you like lol.
I am nothing if not consistent.
For pockets that don’t show, what is you made them from material that matches your skin tone?
I often wear slips of different colors so I think they'd still show, it is a great idea though!
Where did you get your transparent paper from?
I grabbed it off amazon, if you look for rolls of tracing paper it should come up just read the dimensions carefully I definitely ordered one that was far too wide to be practical for my setup lol
To be the devil's advocate (ignore if you are not in the headspace for it! ♥tl;dr I think both ways of approaching it are 100% valid), I think we can presume that with a good bodice pattern block you won't have to deal with anything like the fit issues that can come up with commercial patterns. You could always take in or out in places after comparing to the intended size on the envelope but we humans are all squishy in our own unique way. So I can see both points. For someone, dealing with fitting a dress after sewing a commercial pattern can be too much. They might be very much not the typical size, shape, and symmetry combo expected by the pattern. With limited movement or energy deficit and without a friend or family member willing or able to help, fitting might be next to impossible. The risk of not fitting might not be worth it then. On the other hand, another person might prefer the security a step-by-step recipe offers because they can relax and follow a written pattern. They might be close to a size or are used to the patterns enough to know beforehand where to adjust. And let's not ignore the strange magic called draping.
I tend not to go either way. On some days, dyslexia makes it hard for me to decode how to do stuff in a written form, while thinking about how to construct something is like a fun jigsaw puzzle. And considering I'm (as most living breathing humans are) not very close to anything close to the sizing system, they are fairly useless in that regard as well. I was taught some years ago how to make a skirt/bodice/pants block and even though I don't have my notes, I know I can find the necessary information and make myself one without much trouble. Or rather it would make a fun project of the aforementioned jigsaw puzzle kind. However, my size has been fluctuating so much that making any kind of block properly is absolutely pointless and, to put it bluntly, a waste of resources. So I mix and match - often I use a "free" or an indie pattern (e.g. coquelicot skit) or take one from a garment I already own and modify the heck out of them. Best of both worlds imo. And sometimes I just have a "eureka" in the shower and trust that hunch with something very vaguely resembling "drafting" and rarely including paper. I like this approach less as it can be stressful for those of are sent into a serious self-hate mode whenever they cut something wrong.
Honestly, my view is that as long as it works for you, it's the best way to do stuff. Whether it's using a pattern, working with a block... or pulling stuff directly our of one's butt. Or even that magic stuff with pining fabric to a soft human shaped stuff.
First off thank you for the "ignore if you're not in the headspace for it" it made me feel very cared for, cuz I love a discussion but sometimes am not in the headspace for one.
I'm fully with you, either way is 100% valid and all about what works best for the person making the garment. I do have the privilege of being relatively close to standard block measurements (except for my butt which is why you'll rarely see me making patterns that I have to worry about it). I have many friends who do not measure near a standard block so seeing them drafting off their blocks makes total sense to me. I even think there is a day where I will move to using more self-drafting alongside my patterns. When I have a home where I could have a proper sewing space that would accommodate my disabilities better it would be far more appealing to me.
Where I tend to get frustrated is often when I am out and about in the sewing world I run into people who shove "only drafting is a valid way to sew garments" down people's throats. I have never run into someone who speaks that way about patterns but I'd be rich if I had a dime for every person who dismisses people who sew patterns as less thoughtful, skilled, or money-wasters and see themselves as far superior for drafting their own patterns. I've had many of these experiences recently and had some feeling about it I needed to get out lol.
Thank you for such a thoughtful comment Michaela!
@@HaleyMarieVintage Yeah. People who think "one/my way is the right way" usually haven't considered that there might be a reason one person prefers another option. We don't live in an ideal world, in uniform bodies, and with shared minds to have one objectively right way to do stuff. We are also everchanging and have to find a way to adapt to our new conditions. It's often frustrating to deal with people who are so rigid that they are unwilling to accept other's processes as an option. It seems to me that they are either very lucky or very unhappy and in need of a nice warm cup of tea and a long talk. (Un)fortunately, we can't give strangers unsolicited untrained to-go therapy whenever and wherever they shout something into the universe, wanting to be heard. We would burn out and become bitter recluses ourselves. And to be honest, I'm not sure it would be helpful for them in the long term anyway. 😄
I'm glad the gentle warning was of help. I always worry something like it might be read as condescending. It's a risk I'll gladly take to make sure that I treat others with the consideration and care I would want to be shown myself. ♥ When you think of it that way, caring about others is the height of selfishness, hehe. 😋