Been a diesel mechanic for 2 decades but haven't worked on a small block in 10yrs, great refresher! Thanks for keeping it simple, even a newbie could follow along. Love the simplicity of older Chevs, nothing better!
I’m a rookie mechanic (max green around the ears) and this is my first time doing this. Thanks to this video and excellent narrative I managed to set the timing with very little difficulty. Thank you for the outstanding instruction video.
A little older (OK A LOT probably:)) but take advantage of these DIYer videos, when I learned (as a Greenie) it was reading oil stained books with missing pages:) and Ole School Shade Trees that were as quick with a lesson as they were with disparaging remarks:):) Man, these videos are so instructive they'll make you believe you can rebuild a trans on the side of the road:):)
I have a comment I didn't unplug my advance timing after setting everything do I just unplug it and then check my timing again thank you I really enjoyed your video it showed things that other videos don't show God bless you all and have a blessed day
Don't take the timing light off until you tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Often times it moves a bit so check it again after it's tightened to ensure it's still where you want it before you unhook it and put it away. Sometimes you have to loosen it and set it again... its easier to have 2 people when you do it. One to run the light and one to turn and tighten.
Also that knob on the back of timing light is to check total advance. You bring rpm up then while holding it there you turn the knov until the timing shows back at zero and you read the knob which tells you the total advance.
That is correct. Total timing is way more important than initial timing. The advance springs in most distributors are super strong and don't allow full advance until 4k rpm or redline. Not what you want. I take the springs out so you don't need very high rpm to achieve total timing while you're under the hood...I like my hearing lol
@@ghatazhak4265 it's whatever rpm will allow the weights to fully extend out, depending on the springs you use. I usually remove the springs, then only rev it to about 2k rpm, set it, replace springs, and done.
@@paulkessler8622 sometimes it’s a balancing act. As parts wear things get off from the base factory numbers. “ stacked tolerances” will have an effect. So, when one sets timing to say full advance, the initial timing can be off enough to cause hard starting etc. The opposite is also true, setting initial time in general dead on and full advance might be off quite a bit. Personally I set the base, and check the advance, and , if need be, tweak either/or until a happy compromise is met. Easy starting and acceptable road performance. Now this is for a daily driver of course. A race or high performance application one wants max output.
I've been working on engines for 50 plus years and finally at age 77 I understand what I've been doing wrong when I timed an engine. Wondered where the ping came from and why acceleration felt like I was dragging an anchor. Great presentation thanks
This is how i do a sbc engine. Start let warm up to operating temperature. Turn it off then turn distributor counter clockwise 1/4" at a time between sstart ups until engine drags.then push distributor back clockwise 1/4"at a time between start ups until it starts up perfectly everytime. Then drive it.if it spark pings turn it clockwise 1/4"at a time between test drives until you stop the ping it will be in perfect "timing" been doing it for 40+ years always works. Then adjust carb.if carburetored with vacuum gage.
You should always double check your timing after you tighten your distributor just to make sure you didn't bump it accidentally it does happen sometimes so why you have the light still hooked up it doesn't hurt to check it and then take it off
Robert Waldrop usually it’s due to the hold down grabbing and turning while tightening it down. Also, turning the distributor via the cap? Not the only one who cringed at that am I?
Hey my friend I've been a mechanic 36 years and I still struggle with things especially on my own machines I'll tell you what you're one hell of a guy you help me out a great deal definitely a good explainer right to the T!! Therefore and they're being I have no questions I understood every word you said thank you very much and keep them wrenches turning 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼😉
A pencil stub is an excellent vacuum plug. Safety tip, always connect the ground /negative last. If it's grounded when the hot side is connected it could spark. Use a glittery pearlized nail polish to mark your timing marks as it's much easier to see.
Vacuum advance does not give more timing so it's 'peppier', it increases the timing at part throttle for smoother running and fuel economy. At part throttle, the engine will create a certain amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. This is because the throttle is mostly closed and the engine is pulling against this restriction. Because the throttle is mostly closed, very little air is moving into the cylinders. So at light cruise, such as running down the highway, the engine is making much less power than it would at this same rpm at WOT. With less air and fuel in each cylinder, the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed compared to WOT. This less-dense mixture requires more ignition timing to complete the combustion because it takes longer to burn. As soon as you open the throttle, the vacuum drops to zero and the vacuum advance stops working.
Yea but what if you're advance is hooked to the manifold port on the carburetor that has constant vaccum?? It's already pulling on the advanced when it is idling because it's a constant source of vaccum. I've noticed on my several SBC engines (all 1974 and prior) they seem to like the advance hooked to manifold vaccum. "Peppier" from a dig, smoother on the highways. They also seem to run most efficiently on this side as far as fuel economy goes. On the ported side, they seem gutless and don't have that extra punch I like, also seem to run more carbon carbonous than hooked to manifold. All GM engines prior to emissions were hooked to the manifold side of the carb from the factory and factory specs calls for it. Now, late 70s and 80s engines, the EGR has vaccum, and the charcoal canisters come in to play as well. It's all got vaccum hoses. The ported side would be used for advance on these because of all that stuff drawing vaccum, and the ported side makes less combustible energy at idle than the manifold side at idle and low rpm. Therefore making it "better for the environment" then they went full electronic, no v/a. You have to pertain the brain of the " dumb " computer these cars are equipped with, or it will not advance and stumble upon take off without a vacuum advance type distributor. 1st generation of hei = Has vaccum advance, electronic ignition with vaccum assist 1978 and prior is a good idea to have a vaccum hei distributor. 2nd generation of hei = no advance, it's fully electronic. For models containing map sensors, tpi, etc. (Computer ignition. If you can hook a diagnostic tool to a port and it's all unmolested, you require a fully electronic hei 9/10 times. You may be able to hook up the old style to these engines but can't use a fully hei version on an older engine. For low horse power applications, and overall smaller cubic inch engines, especially if all the smog controll and emissions controll bologna & hoopla are still hooked up and functional, I'd definitely hook to the ported side of the carb with my vaccum advance But for higher horse, higher compression, Larger c.i. Engines, especially older less "fuel efficient" engines, with large cfm carbs, you'd want to most definitely use the manifold side. .especially on generation 1 sbc engines, or older engines equipped with quadrajets, holley from the factory. I plugged my ported side because I have no AC or accessories or emissions control. , booster and modulator are hooked to the manifold stand behind the carburetor, I also hardline all my vaccum hoses. Never worry about a cracked or melted hose again. Just a very small piece of hose from the flared side of my metal lines, to the ports. About a inch or 2 mostly, booster slightly more hose to allow for the filter. And distance but I'm still hardlined past the valve cover. It also looks cleaner this way, no coiled hoses, droopy hoses, just nice, symmetrical, straight lines bent by my skills to my satisfaction. By the way: your vaccum advance has an adjustment screw to control how hard or soft it pulls when advanced (how much inches of vaccum it takes to advance all the way/retract) for fine tuning, I always set mine to be the easiest to pull because i like dig racing and want "peak vaccum" & "peak timing" as fast as possible this assures it's running as efficiently and as powerful as possible when stressed to run high in rpms really fast so it'll pull as much air, be able to efficiently burn all the gas dumped with this air, and if its pulling and burning fast, it's putting out more exhaust pressure. There for getting the catalyst in the engine and the waste out as fast as possible. Therefore making more power with a lighter-sucking advance and keeping your engine internally cleaner. You can also tweak on the modulator valve the same way to fine tune shifting without getting inside the Trans, but this is discussion for a different time lol
Road time it. Advance little bit at a time until pinging starts on a hard 1st to third or 2nd to fourth shift...then back it off a bit. This is how I timed cars back in the day after getting it close with a light. Nicely done video!
They're still out there man. I just bought a 72 custom deluxe on craigslist for less than 2k two weeks ago. It's a diamond in the rough but it'll work for me. Good luck
Ledger Cook I’m 14 and I got a 1981 c10 stepside box Chevy me and my step dad started rebuilding it when I was 12 and we’ve gone through the frame body and the last pice of our puzzle is the carburetor 😃 we will be putting it on tomorrow I’m so excited ❤️ live for these old trucks!!!!
Kyle! Thanks for the journey back to when I was about your age, adjusting the timing on the 3.8L V6 on my collegemobile, a 1981 Buick Century. A poster on another forum is having trouble with the timing on their Century, same year. He claims he followed all the steps, including disconnecting some electronic thingy. He didn't mention whether he just did ehat I did: disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose, then perform the timing adjustment.
actually bought a 1969 chevy c20 today. transfer of ownership takes place at the dmv tomorrow in the morning and im here because the motor needs to be overhauled as it burns oil do to bad piston rings. that being said, I want to install a 465 lift cam with a 224 duration to increase performance of the engine. so im here to learn timing
how did you deside its the rings could be the valves ???????? this is a tip for new guys burning oil take plugs take compression readings now add small spoon of mtr. oil each plug hole re take comp. readings did it help then its the rings if it does not help its the valves they need grinding
I just bought me a 1981 chevy c10. I've always owned newer cars and trucks and this being older then me is a trip on how simple it is but at the same time its a whole new world. I still need to fix the timing on my truck right after I figure out the whole vacuum lines going to the carb (previous owner took everything apart that has to deal with the carb) Good thing is I got it started but it sounds like its about to die.
scott web grew up w old Chevy and GMC trucks. my older brother was a Chevy technician. I'll never forget when he snuck a LT1 phase 2 cam and 2.02 heads on the old man's truck. pop could swear that it was running rough lol. gee I wonder why
I tend to adjust my engine in Drive if it requires it, and time it at the specified RPM. Other videos suggest that after the timing is set, then recheck your Idle mixture and speed.
@@1337penguinman my dad was a mechanic a while back and showed me it was easier to change the back most spark plugs on a s-10 with 4.3 from the wheel wells
I am a collision tech and to be honest its about the same. You have to have knowledge to identify problems in old cars. Carburator adjustment, timing etc also skills you need to make them run right and be correctly tuned. New cars have a ton of modules and sensors, but you plug in your scanner and it points you towards your problem area. Not all of them are created equal though. Some people expect their engine code reader they got off of Ebay to do everything and promptly get dissapointed when they find out the astronomical price tags on scanners that do engine, air bags, abs, body modules, live readings etc.
But I et the point you are making. News cara are like space ships compared to classics. I am a proud owner of a 1971 Chevelle and I also prefer old cars. The less you have moving around when the car is on, there is less to go wrong. Besides they have character and come from a time when hard working Americans expected quality when they spent their hard earned dollars. The new mostly plastic cars will not last anywhere near as long and there are hundreds of thousands of every model. Also not everyone is great with electronics. BMWs are notoriously bad with electronic components, though they have gotten better. They lose their value like crazy in just a handful of years because of that.
You don't have the 9/16 the 1/2 inch distributor wrench? Something you keep with the points file and points screwdriver, next to the timing light and dwell meter?
Actually the vacuum advance works opposite of what he mentioned..it ads advance at low load and high vacum conditions...so basically when your not under load and light on the throttle it ads advance...
I also couldn't couldn't see it...I'm guessing it's the refresh rate of the digital recorder per frame being a different speed to the timing light....it'd probably so much easier if someone could do a computer animation that isn't affected by computer/mobile phone screen refresh rate.m
You are absolutely full of shyt! Temperature has absolutely no bearing on mechanical advance and vacuum advance is disconnected. If it idles too low then adjust the idle up a little, if you have the skill it takes to perform that basic function. Everyone thinks initial timing is what matters, but it is actually total timing!
Man, the last car I timed was my new '87 Mustang GT. IIRC, I installed a cooler 160 degree thermostat and removed the air box silencer to free up the airflow a bit. I think I bumped it up 2 degrees and only used premium fuel from there on after. I used to do the fun meal deal on my older cars quite often. I bet I changed the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, condenser every year. Now cars can go 100,000 miles between tuneups. Back in the old days I used to think 100k was end of life for engines. heh
I gave up on partially rebuilt bases, and bought a new billet one a few years back. I can't remember now exactly what I dialed in, but I got ported vs. manifold sorted out, and set the advance curve up to something that the 305 loves.
Very well done I learned something that no one has ever told me before I did not know that your suppose to disconnect the vacuum advance prior to timing thank you and you said about 12 degrees before TDC I have a 1978 350 I need to get timed correctly
akbound.prepper. I have left the vacuum line connected while setting the timing. In a pinch you can use a vacuum gauge. On a stock engine it should produce 18 to 22 inches of vacumm
Im setting here thinking a long time ago..wasnt it 4before4 on those old small block..to set the timing..i always used a white marker and marked that balancer..just thinking back..really nice truck.. i had one once.
If you cannot easily see the timing mark on the pulley, drag a piece of white chalk over it so the divot fills up with chalk and wipe off the excess from the outside of the pulley. this makes the mark easy to see. When purchasing an old v8 engine, be sure to get one with the distributor at the front of the engine. this makes this job so much easier. If you own and old ford coupe or bucket that has an engine with the distributor at the rear, you are doing it wrong lol.
Well you forgot to mention that the rom needs to be 700 or lower. You also forgot you now need to raise rpm to about 1500. To check your mechanical fly weights make sure it’s not stuck. Then hook vacuum advance up and 1500 rpm to check total advance. Too many time I’ve seen timing set correct only to find out mechanicals were froze open and would not give a good total advance . Also if its points style set your dwell first. Every two degrees of dwell changes timing 1 degree....
i dont disagree with your comment but i am somewhat confused how dwell is in this picture the points open it fires the dwell is how long they stay open by the time they are full open its already fired ----- set the record straight for me
all the points do is lift the gd off the condenser and coil conn as they open there is no current flow thru the points unless it has wrong condenser mfd value or the condenser is defective in that case the curren has to jump the open gap to gd.causing points to pit over time
I have a 1985 Chevy Silverado my timing is off and I can't get it adjusted to the right timing cause the timing plate numbers are gone . Not sure how to set the timing with out the timing plate
Just turn the distributor one way a little at a time and listen to it. If it gets worse then turn it back the other way and find the sweet spot that sounds the healthiest. Also keep your idle screw on carb in mind. Might need a little fine tuning there.I'm not a licensed physician I'm just telling you what I would do
No problem at all hope it helps. Maybe even use a marker and make a line to line it back up with just in case you need to go back to where you started or just for peace of mind
Thanks Cory so play around with carb screw and slight rotations of distributed cap?thanks my 350 will ping every other time I drive it and backfire if if floor it
I know this is an older video...but I have a problem. I have a stock 350 with a 600cfm holley replacement carb, its running a little rich but ive heard it doesnt effect timing. the engine idled really low and if it wasnt warmed up it would immediatly stall when i put it in gear and tried to move it. i adjusted the time to be right in the valley between the 4 and 8 degree mark (stock harmonic balancer, stock timing change cover, stock adjustment notches, its all stock. n9t even a cam)...and now, it starts up really easy, the starter has no trouble...and acceleration is good, idle is good. but now that ive adjusted it, i get that really strong nostril burning smell. temp is the same, as it was before, right around 210. is it too far advanced? or is it just all of the gunk from running rich burning out? the engine does burn a little oil, ive been running a thicker oil and i also use the lucas additive and a ring sealer additive. its a beater truck i dont mind the burning oil but i also dont want to burn holes in the pistons.
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
Same exact process, however vortec heads have a more efficient combustion chamber so total timing should be ~32 degrees. Inotial timing should still be around 12-14 degrees
To loosen the hold-down bolt on the dizzy did you go left or right looked like right and tighten left??? can't seem to get mine to move either way.......
Hey I swapped my 350 small block set timing right plumbed in edelbrok 1406 with electric inline fuel pump and regulator. It runs great in p and n but slugs in gear like just does not want to go any idea?
First and foremost, timing is job #1. If it's not set correctly from the get go, none of the work you do will mean anything and you'll be re-doing it. SBCs run best between 36-38 degrees total timing. If you have Vortec heads, you want 32 degrees total timing due to their efficient chamber design. Which distributor do you have, points or HEI? Your distributor has to be setup correctly also as it affects your timing as well. Edelbrock carbs are known to be finicky with fuel pressure, boiling fuel, and float levels. Edelbrock recommends setting your fuel pressure regulator to 5.5 psi, no more or it causes flooding. You need a heat insulating gasket between the intake and carb like the Edelbrock 9266 to stop the fuel from boiling in the carb. If not, you'll have starting and rough running issues when the truck is at operating temp. The float levels (drop and rise) need to be adjusted to Edelbrock specs, or you'll also have flooding and other issues. Also, check your lines for kinks, leaks or clogs.
@@paulkessler8622 the timing is good, fuel is set to 5.5, the engine sounds amazing no noises. I'm thinkin too little vacuum to the th400 possibly i know I'm having a throttle issue so im gonna adjust the throttle cable and see if that does anything my biggest concern is why would it be so sluggish in the gear? The trans is a good runner
@@brandonsanders8081 How did you set your timing and what is it actually set at? Was the vacuum advance connected while setting timing? Which distributor and how many degrees of mechanical advance and vacuum advance (separately, not combined)? What are your spark plugs gapped to? I don't feel it's the tranny, but you never know. Check your tranny modulator and vacuum line condition. When checking your throttle, make sure it's adjusted in sync so when you floor the pedal, the carb is at wide open throttle (WOT) as well.
Turned it over till I felt compression. Put the screw driver in 1 rotated till the piston was at the top. Stabbed the dizzy with the rotor pointing at 1st cylinder. I think I may have actually set timing with the vacuum advance hooked up. When its running I can put it at a perfect idle but as soon as i drop it in gear itll die but if I get out and adjust it to as far advanced as it'll go in park it idles probably 3k then when I drop in gear itll go not fast or touchy by any means but itll go up to 55 but thats on its own idle. Ive had previous issues with the vacuum actuator line breaking off on the trans I have it rigged with high preasure 3/8rubber line from carb to trans actuator. Spark plugs are gapped .035.
@@brandonsanders8081 Ok, re-time the engine with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Set total timing, not initial. Does your vehicle have emissions equipment? If so, you'll unfortunately have to hook up the vac advance to ported vac. If not, you want it on manifold vac. Afte reconnecting vac advance, set your idle speed to 750 rpm in drive. Your spark plugs should be gapped to .035 for points, or .045 for HEI.
The vacuum tube to distributor advance mechanism has no vacuum source. No need to plug that tube if you disconnect from carb. Maybe keep a bug out! Carb settings may change since carb now has a vacuum leak. What might be better is disconnect tube at distributor. Then when you plug tube no carb mixture change. Since it is to be plugged to a ported vacuum, little change may occur at idle. Could run a little leaner at mid range with that open vacuum port.
One of us is messed up and I am taking no bets..... But I have the same setup, same truck model, et al. I went over the booklet with my Edlebrock and I swore the vacuum advance hose was supposed to be coming from the right (DS) tube on the front of the carb. You have it on the left one. Which is correct. I am tuning mine as we speak, so I will switch and see if there is any difference. Then I will dig out the instruction manual again and re-read.
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
I RECALL DROPPING THE hold down screw for the points down in the distributor having to take distributor out,some people thought the hold down screw held the whole car together,over tighting it😃.
I had to adjust my idle screw to get it almost right along with turning the cap. It ran better with idle screw turned more counter clockwise then I adjusted the cap. It silinced some noises too
Where can I buy a timing light product u have there my girlfriend has a 1979 chevy 1500 pickup and it's having trouble with the timing and it has already been fixed 3 times. So I want her to be happy with a fixed up running smoothly truck from her late grandfather truck.
Awesome video thank you for your help. Just curious on your thoughts for a 1970 stock 350 w/rochester 4bbl. Do you prefer ported or manifold vacuum for your distributor advance vacuum source?
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
I have a 350 in a T Bucket I didn't build it but believe it's all stock should I be setting it at he 12 degrees that you mentioned, also have Hagerty insurance
I set mine at full advance,, and check for spark knock on take off if none your good and get most out of your engine,,, and if you really want performance run high test fuel,,,the more you can advance without preignition the better it will run,,
can i use that type of timing gun in reverse to figure out what my timing mark should be? meaning if i set the dial on the gun till i find that the marks are on zero the marks on gun would be my timing mark ??/
at the factory spec for hot idle. (ie; my '77 k10, with an HEI, a quadrajet, and a manual trans, is 700rpm) once you re-attach the vacum advance, you will have to re-adjust idle speed, as the engine will speed-up.
Question... just replaced the oil gasket pan on a 72 chevelle. Lifted the engine up to do this. After putting everything back in place and adjusting cannot get it to start. It turns over but backs fire but no real start. Thought it was the distributor but everything looks correct on that. Was told to adjust timing but how can I do so when it won't start? Frustrated to say the least. Advice please.
Hey bud i have a 4 barrel carb Rochester ,that was running with timing a bit advance and the carburetor would bog/ sound like if it would want to turn off but never did. And have to crank it over with gas several time to start it. So I took it to a mechanic he told it was to advanced in the time that's how I know and he properly timed it and it now starts right up. So I was extremely happy. BUT then when I would want to floor it the carb would back fire so I took it back and he said that he thinks I need bigger jets for more gas . What do you think could be causing the backfire? I
I have 1980 C10 Silverado 350 5.7 my vacuum advance it's almost hitting the intake manifold, my truck starts at this location. Do i have to restab,the distributor for the vacuum advance to be set properly
Because 4 degrees is for emissions engines. The 72 he used in the video has no emissions equipment so it will run best at about 14-16 degrees initial and 36-38 degrees total timing
Don't know if you can help me or not. I have a 1955 chevy 265 v 8, I had the distributor out because of a problem and now that I found that wasn't my problem after all. I lined up the rotor with #1 cylinder and it seems it's still out of time. it will start and run. But it back fires, I've moved the dist. both ways with no luck. I have new plugs, wires and check the gas. lost
The engine is nothing more than a vacuum pump, but using a vac gauge is not the right way to set timing. Back in the day they did it by finding highest vacuum while turning the distributor and setting it there. You can still do that, but you need to follow up with a timing light for it to be exact. Set it to 36 degrees total timing
Hope this comment section still gets responses. I have an 84 corvette and had in the shop to have a pick up coil replaced due to no spark and fuel. So, that part is repaired and now I was told after it was put back together that they can’t get it timed and is running absolutely horrible. I did a complete tune up on it with no improvement. And recommendations would help.
@@toddrhine7648 Yeah man. The idiots at the shop put the wires on backwards to the control module. That was the whole reason the car wouldn’t run. I fixed it then and has been driving like new ever since Thanks for checkout up!!
I've got a S10 with a sbc 350 I believe, I bought it like this and the guy wasn't sure what it came out of so, I've been buying parts for a 74 camaro so I replaced the timing chain and gear at the time didn't know to mark everything or to even line up at 6 and 12 at top dead center well I put it back as it came off took it for a ride and was running rough so then, i found out to line up the marks so I took it apart and lined up the marks as I thought I was supposed to but has very little fire and what fire it does have is yellow spark and now has a whining noise as it turns over and it sounds like it's bubbling out the exhaust. Any ideas, on what I've done?
I did this to a tee. Idled great. Hooked up the vacuum on my rochester 2 barrel and the timing immediately advanced. It backfires and runs bad. Any suggestions???
I got a problem. I haven’t been able to figure out or anybody. I have a 1964 Chevy Impala at 3:27 engine. I do believe it has a small cam. It has headers in the morning. It starts perfect once I drive the car around for you a while after that the cranking to start is very weak to the point where it cranks to the point where it wants to waste my battery brand new battery brand new starter only when the car gets hot.
I think Counter clockwise will advance the timing if I'm not mistaken, I believe the button cap in the distributor turns clockwise so the twisting the distributor counterclockwise will time it earlier, fixing to try this on my truck without the timing light. Took the air pump and charcoal canister off because it wasn't working properly and I think the motor is timed differently with emissions than without
Been a diesel mechanic for 2 decades but haven't worked on a small block in 10yrs, great refresher! Thanks for keeping it simple, even a newbie could follow along. Love the simplicity of older Chevs, nothing better!
I’m a rookie mechanic (max green around the ears) and this is my first time doing this. Thanks to this video and excellent narrative I managed to set the timing with very little difficulty. Thank you for the outstanding instruction video.
A little older (OK A LOT probably:)) but take advantage of these DIYer videos, when I learned (as a Greenie) it was reading oil stained books with missing pages:) and Ole School Shade Trees that were as quick with a lesson as they were with disparaging remarks:):) Man, these videos are so instructive they'll make you believe you can rebuild a trans on the side of the road:):)
just fixed my truck thanx to you.. thank you so much you have no idea the stress and trouble you saved me
I have a comment I didn't unplug my advance timing after setting everything do I just unplug it and then check my timing again thank you I really enjoyed your video it showed things that other videos don't show God bless you all and have a blessed day
Don't take the timing light off until you tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Often times it moves a bit so check it again after it's tightened to ensure it's still where you want it before you unhook it and put it away. Sometimes you have to loosen it and set it again... its easier to have 2 people when you do it. One to run the light and one to turn and tighten.
Also that knob on the back of timing light is to check total advance. You bring rpm up then while holding it there you turn the knov until the timing shows back at zero and you read the knob which tells you the total advance.
That is correct. Total timing is way more important than initial timing. The advance springs in most distributors are super strong and don't allow full advance until 4k rpm or redline. Not what you want. I take the springs out so you don't need very high rpm to achieve total timing while you're under the hood...I like my hearing lol
@@paulkessler8622 What RPM should total timing be at?
@@ghatazhak4265 it's whatever rpm will allow the weights to fully extend out, depending on the springs you use. I usually remove the springs, then only rev it to about 2k rpm, set it, replace springs, and done.
@@ghatazhak4265 I like my total timing all in at about 3000rpm. 32-34 degrees on the sbc.
@@paulkessler8622 sometimes it’s a balancing act. As parts wear things get off from the base factory numbers. “ stacked tolerances” will have an effect. So, when one sets timing to say full advance, the initial timing can be off enough to cause hard starting etc.
The opposite is also true, setting initial time in general dead on and full advance might be off quite a bit.
Personally I set the base, and check the advance, and , if need be, tweak either/or until a happy compromise is met.
Easy starting and acceptable road performance. Now this is for a daily driver of course. A race or high performance application one wants max output.
I've been working on engines for 50 plus years and finally at age 77 I understand what I've been doing wrong when I timed an engine. Wondered where the ping came from and why acceleration felt like I was dragging an anchor. Great presentation thanks
This is how i do a sbc engine. Start let warm up to operating temperature. Turn it off then turn distributor counter clockwise 1/4" at a time between sstart ups until engine drags.then push distributor back clockwise 1/4"at a time between start ups until it starts up perfectly everytime. Then drive it.if it spark pings turn it clockwise 1/4"at a time between test drives until you stop the ping it will be in perfect "timing" been doing it for 40+ years always works. Then adjust carb.if carburetored with vacuum gage.
Nice! Great to see some "old school" vids. Something to mention is that carburetor settings might need adjustment once you get the timing set.
You should always double check your timing after you tighten your distributor just to make sure you didn't bump it accidentally it does happen sometimes so why you have the light still hooked up it doesn't hurt to check it and then take it off
Robert Waldrop usually it’s due to the hold down grabbing and turning while tightening it down.
Also, turning the distributor via the cap? Not the only one who cringed at that am I?
I couldn't agree more. I've had to fight this exact problem.
@@dylnbxtr o6i⁷67⁶
It’s so beautiful the way it just started at the end... man...
Hey my friend I've been a mechanic 36 years and I still struggle with things especially on my own machines I'll tell you what you're one hell of a guy you help me out a great deal definitely a good explainer right to the T!! Therefore and they're being I have no questions I understood every word you said thank you very much and keep them wrenches turning 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼😉
A pencil stub is an excellent vacuum plug.
Safety tip, always connect the ground /negative last. If it's grounded when the hot side is connected it could spark.
Use a glittery pearlized nail polish to mark your timing marks as it's much easier to see.
i painted cranshaft pully black then use a tooth pick and white paint to mark degree tiny grooves (out standing ) with flashing light
@@frankdavidson9675 that certainly works too.
im new to this and had a basic understanding. but have no clue how to fine tune any of it. this was very helpful in starting back from square one
You missed setting points & CONDENSERS. 😁
Match book worked good but they bite like Zeus if you did it wrong. Whiplash yer arm off your body
Vacuum advance does not give more timing so it's 'peppier', it increases the timing at part throttle for smoother running and fuel economy. At part throttle, the engine will create a certain amount of vacuum in the intake manifold. This is because the throttle is mostly closed and the engine is pulling against this restriction. Because the throttle is mostly closed, very little air is moving into the cylinders. So at light cruise, such as running down the highway, the engine is making much less power than it would at this same rpm at WOT. With less air and fuel in each cylinder, the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed compared to WOT. This less-dense mixture requires more ignition timing to complete the combustion because it takes longer to burn. As soon as you open the throttle, the vacuum drops to zero and the vacuum advance stops working.
Yea but what if you're advance is hooked to the manifold port on the carburetor that has constant vaccum?? It's already pulling on the advanced when it is idling because it's a constant source of vaccum.
I've noticed on my several SBC engines (all 1974 and prior) they seem to like the advance hooked to manifold vaccum. "Peppier" from a dig, smoother on the highways. They also seem to run most efficiently on this side as far as fuel economy goes. On the ported side, they seem gutless and don't have that extra punch I like, also seem to run more carbon carbonous than hooked to manifold.
All GM engines prior to emissions were hooked to the manifold side of the carb from the factory and factory specs calls for it. Now, late 70s and 80s engines, the EGR has vaccum, and the charcoal canisters come in to play as well. It's all got vaccum hoses. The ported side would be used for advance on these because of all that stuff drawing vaccum, and the ported side makes less combustible energy at idle than the manifold side at idle and low rpm. Therefore making it "better for the environment" then they went full electronic, no v/a. You have to pertain the brain of the " dumb " computer these cars are equipped with, or it will not advance and stumble upon take off without a vacuum advance type distributor.
1st generation of hei = Has vaccum advance, electronic ignition with vaccum assist 1978 and prior is a good idea to have a vaccum hei distributor.
2nd generation of hei = no advance, it's fully electronic. For models containing map sensors, tpi, etc. (Computer ignition. If you can hook a diagnostic tool to a port and it's all unmolested, you require a fully electronic hei 9/10 times. You may be able to hook up the old style to these engines but can't use a fully hei version on an older engine.
For low horse power applications, and overall smaller cubic inch engines, especially if all the smog controll and emissions controll bologna & hoopla are still hooked up and functional, I'd definitely hook to the ported side of the carb with my vaccum advance
But for higher horse, higher compression, Larger c.i. Engines, especially older less "fuel efficient" engines, with large cfm carbs, you'd want to most definitely use the manifold side. .especially on generation 1 sbc engines, or older engines equipped with quadrajets, holley from the factory.
I plugged my ported side because I have no AC or accessories or emissions control. , booster and modulator are hooked to the manifold stand behind the carburetor, I also hardline all my vaccum hoses. Never worry about a cracked or melted hose again. Just a very small piece of hose from the flared side of my metal lines, to the ports. About a inch or 2 mostly, booster slightly more hose to allow for the filter. And distance but I'm still hardlined past the valve cover. It also looks cleaner this way, no coiled hoses, droopy hoses, just nice, symmetrical, straight lines bent by my skills to my satisfaction.
By the way: your vaccum advance has an adjustment screw to control how hard or soft it pulls when advanced (how much inches of vaccum it takes to advance all the way/retract) for fine tuning, I always set mine to be the easiest to pull because i like dig racing and want "peak vaccum" & "peak timing" as fast as possible this assures it's running as efficiently and as powerful as possible when stressed to run high in rpms really fast so it'll pull as much air, be able to efficiently burn all the gas dumped with this air, and if its pulling and burning fast, it's putting out more exhaust pressure. There for getting the catalyst in the engine and the waste out as fast as possible. Therefore making more power with a lighter-sucking advance and keeping your engine internally cleaner.
You can also tweak on the modulator valve the same way to fine tune shifting without getting inside the Trans, but this is discussion for a different time lol
Road time it. Advance little bit at a time until pinging starts on a hard 1st to third or 2nd to fourth shift...then back it off a bit. This is how I timed cars back in the day after getting it close with a light. Nicely done video!
Every other time I drive my350 I get pings and when I goose the gas I’ll get backfiring. Wich way should I rotate my distributor?
Clockwise
On my old pontiacs, I just give it as much time as I can an still start the engine! Works good!
Could not have found a more useful video, I have a 73 C10 with the 350 so it’s pretty much the same process for my truck, thanks
Man I'd love one of those old Chevy trucks
They're still out there man. I just bought a 72 custom deluxe on craigslist for less than 2k two weeks ago. It's a diamond in the rough but it'll work for me. Good luck
John Snider I have my eye on a 64 c10, but I'm 16
Ledger Cook I’m 14 and I got a 1981 c10 stepside box Chevy me and my step dad started rebuilding it when I was 12 and we’ve gone through the frame body and the last pice of our puzzle is the carburetor 😃 we will be putting it on tomorrow I’m so excited ❤️ live for these old trucks!!!!
I just picked one up. Needs some work but it was only 1500 bucks and has almost no rust. The only rot is the drivers side rocker.
Dustin Ritchotte cool
Kyle! Thanks for the journey back to when I was about your age, adjusting the timing on the 3.8L V6 on my collegemobile, a 1981 Buick Century.
A poster on another forum is having trouble with the timing on their Century, same year. He claims he followed all the steps, including disconnecting some electronic thingy.
He didn't mention whether he just did ehat I did: disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose, then perform the timing adjustment.
actually bought a 1969 chevy c20 today. transfer of ownership takes place at the dmv tomorrow in the morning and im here because the motor needs to be overhauled as it burns oil do to bad piston rings. that being said, I want to install a 465 lift cam with a 224 duration to increase performance of the engine. so im here to learn timing
how did you deside its the rings could be the valves ???????? this is a tip for new guys burning oil take plugs take compression readings now add small spoon of mtr. oil each plug hole re take comp. readings did it help then its the rings if it does not help its the valves they need grinding
@@frankdavidson9675smoking can be as simple as valve stem seals, not necessarily the valves themselves
I just bought me a 1981 chevy c10. I've always owned newer cars and trucks and this being older then me is a trip on how simple it is but at the same time its a whole new world. I still need to fix the timing on my truck right after I figure out the whole vacuum lines going to the carb (previous owner took everything apart that has to deal with the carb) Good thing is I got it started but it sounds like its about to die.
Got a 69 gmc - they are great trucks!
scott web grew up w old Chevy and GMC trucks. my older brother was a Chevy technician. I'll never forget when he snuck a LT1 phase 2 cam and 2.02 heads on the old man's truck. pop could swear that it was running rough lol. gee I wonder why
I tend to adjust my engine in Drive if it requires it, and time it at the specified RPM. Other videos suggest that after the timing is set, then recheck your Idle mixture and speed.
Thank you for creating and posting this.
Nice and easy not like todays cars where you have to be an automotive surgeon and have $5,000 worth of tools just to change a light bulb
Vanmyster94 haha yep that’s why I have a 1983 Chevy 350 k5 blazer
You laugh but I've seen cars you have to take the front wheel off of just to change a headlight.
@@1337penguinman my dad was a mechanic a while back and showed me it was easier to change the back most spark plugs on a s-10 with 4.3 from the wheel wells
I am a collision tech and to be honest its about the same. You have to have knowledge to identify problems in old cars. Carburator adjustment, timing etc also skills you need to make them run right and be correctly tuned. New cars have a ton of modules and sensors, but you plug in your scanner and it points you towards your problem area. Not all of them are created equal though. Some people expect their engine code reader they got off of Ebay to do everything and promptly get dissapointed when they find out the astronomical price tags on scanners that do engine, air bags, abs, body modules, live readings etc.
But I et the point you are making. News cara are like space ships compared to classics. I am a proud owner of a 1971 Chevelle and I also prefer old cars. The less you have moving around when the car is on, there is less to go wrong. Besides they have character and come from a time when hard working Americans expected quality when they spent their hard earned dollars. The new mostly plastic cars will not last anywhere near as long and there are hundreds of thousands of every model. Also not everyone is great with electronics. BMWs are notoriously bad with electronic components, though they have gotten better. They lose their value like crazy in just a handful of years because of that.
You don't have the 9/16 the 1/2 inch distributor wrench? Something you keep with the points file and points screwdriver, next to the timing light and dwell meter?
if you are having to file your points you have condenser tble --- wrong mfd value or they are defective -----verfy-----
Actually the vacuum advance works opposite of what he mentioned..it ads advance at low load and high vacum conditions...so basically when your not under load and light on the throttle it ads advance...
Exactly, I caught that too. He also has it connected wrong on ported vacuum, so it's operating under high load, low vacuum conditions 🤣🤣
He is dumb. I got that too
Thanks for the video, definitely forgot to plug the vacuum advance when trying to time my truck lol!
ayyy that's the truck I'm looking this up for lol ✊
Lol no joke me too. I have a 72 C20 with a 350. I laughed when they showed the truck. Perfect!
@@thekehoeshow.. same years later lmao
Are you suppose to reconnect the vacuum advance to check total advance timing?
Maybe it was my computer but I never saw the mark
I also couldn't couldn't see it...I'm guessing it's the refresh rate of the digital recorder per frame being a different speed to the timing light....it'd probably so much easier if someone could do a computer animation that isn't affected by computer/mobile phone screen refresh rate.m
I also do not have a clue on what the light was doing or where it should be adjusted to???
No one ever cares to mention that you are supposed to get the engine up to operating temperature before you adjust your timing
chris18228 I think that’s mainly for the choke to be off its cycle
Cold or hot no difference!
Steven L Jones maybe he thinks warming it up you can see the line better?
The engine idle is way different warmed up vs cold
You are absolutely full of shyt! Temperature has absolutely no bearing on mechanical advance and vacuum advance is disconnected. If it idles too low then adjust the idle up a little, if you have the skill it takes to perform that basic function. Everyone thinks initial timing is what matters, but it is actually total timing!
When clamping on the inductive pick up to the #1 wire, the arrow on it is pointing to the spark plug correct?
I’ll throw you a curve on gm engines V8 you can also use cyl 6 because it’s a tdc same time as cyl 1
Man, the last car I timed was my new '87 Mustang GT. IIRC, I installed a cooler 160 degree thermostat and removed the air box silencer to free up the airflow a bit. I think I bumped it up 2 degrees and only used premium fuel from there on after. I used to do the fun meal deal on my older cars quite often. I bet I changed the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, condenser every year. Now cars can go 100,000 miles between tuneups. Back in the old days I used to think 100k was end of life for engines. heh
I gave up on partially rebuilt bases, and bought a new billet one a few years back. I can't remember now exactly what I dialed in, but I got ported vs. manifold sorted out, and set the advance curve up to something that the 305 loves.
What advance curve did you use and what did you decide on ported vs manifold?
@@paulkessler8622 you never seem to get a reply from people?
@@peacepoet1947 A lot of times lol
Very well done I learned something that no one has ever told me before I did not know that your suppose to disconnect the vacuum advance prior to timing thank you and you said about 12 degrees before TDC I have a 1978 350 I need to get timed correctly
akbound.prepper dummy
akbound.prepper. I have left the vacuum line connected while setting the timing. In a pinch you can use a vacuum gauge. On a stock engine it should produce 18 to 22 inches of vacumm
Im setting here thinking a long time ago..wasnt it 4before4 on those old small block..to set the timing..i always used a white marker and marked that balancer..just thinking back..really nice truck.. i had one once.
If you cannot easily see the timing mark on the pulley, drag a piece of white chalk over it so the divot fills up with chalk and wipe off the excess from the outside of the pulley. this makes the mark easy to see.
When purchasing an old v8 engine, be sure to get one with the distributor at the front of the engine. this makes this job so much easier. If you own and old ford coupe or bucket that has an engine with the distributor at the rear, you are doing it wrong lol.
Well you forgot to mention that the rom needs to be 700 or lower. You also forgot you now need to raise rpm to about 1500. To check your mechanical fly weights make sure it’s not stuck. Then hook vacuum advance up and 1500 rpm to check total advance. Too many time I’ve seen timing set correct only to find out mechanicals were froze open and would not give a good total advance . Also if its points style set your dwell first. Every two degrees of dwell changes timing 1 degree....
i dont disagree with your comment but i am somewhat confused how dwell is in this picture the points open it fires the dwell is how long they stay open by the time they are full open its already fired ----- set the record straight for me
all the points do is lift the gd off the condenser and coil conn as they open there is no current flow thru the points unless it has wrong condenser mfd value or the condenser is defective in that case the curren has to jump the open gap to gd.causing points to pit over time
@@frankdavidson9675 dwell is how long they are closed.
It's like being in Auto Shop again in High School....lol...Thanks.
Nice Founders sticker on the tool box, they are one of my favorite breweries too.
I have a 1985 Chevy Silverado my timing is off and I can't get it adjusted to the right timing cause the timing plate numbers are gone . Not sure how to set the timing with out the timing plate
Just turn the distributor one way a little at a time and listen to it. If it gets worse then turn it back the other way and find the sweet spot that sounds the healthiest. Also keep your idle screw on carb in mind. Might need a little fine tuning there.I'm not a licensed physician I'm just telling you what I would do
@@heywatchthis1992 thank you
No problem at all hope it helps. Maybe even use a marker and make a line to line it back up with just in case you need to go back to where you started or just for peace of mind
Thanks Cory so play around with carb screw and slight rotations of distributed cap?thanks my 350 will ping every other time I drive it and backfire if if floor it
There is also a direction arrow on the pick up clamp. At mine has one
Should of marked the the line on the Harmonic balance wheel. With white paint so you can see it better.
I know this is an older video...but I have a problem. I have a stock 350 with a 600cfm holley replacement carb, its running a little rich but ive heard it doesnt effect timing. the engine idled really low and if it wasnt warmed up it would immediatly stall when i put it in gear and tried to move it. i adjusted the time to be right in the valley between the 4 and 8 degree mark (stock harmonic balancer, stock timing change cover, stock adjustment notches, its all stock. n9t even a cam)...and now, it starts up really easy, the starter has no trouble...and acceleration is good, idle is good. but now that ive adjusted it, i get that really strong nostril burning smell. temp is the same, as it was before, right around 210. is it too far advanced? or is it just all of the gunk from running rich burning out? the engine does burn a little oil, ive been running a thicker oil and i also use the lucas additive and a ring sealer additive. its a beater truck i dont mind the burning oil but i also dont want to burn holes in the pistons.
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
Nice video good information. But i have a question. Chevy 350 old vortec heads on it. All The process is same?? Thanks
Same exact process, however vortec heads have a more efficient combustion chamber so total timing should be ~32 degrees. Inotial timing should still be around 12-14 degrees
Doesn’t vac advance pull timing as the engine revs up? You loose vacuum the more throttle you give it, so it can’t possibly add more timing??
To loosen the hold-down bolt on the dizzy did you go left or right looked like right and tighten left??? can't seem to get mine to move either way.......
Hey I swapped my 350 small block set timing right plumbed in edelbrok 1406 with electric inline fuel pump and regulator. It runs great in p and n but slugs in gear like just does not want to go any idea?
First and foremost, timing is job #1. If it's not set correctly from the get go, none of the work you do will mean anything and you'll be re-doing it. SBCs run best between 36-38 degrees total timing. If you have Vortec heads, you want 32 degrees total timing due to their efficient chamber design. Which distributor do you have, points or HEI? Your distributor has to be setup correctly also as it affects your timing as well.
Edelbrock carbs are known to be finicky with fuel pressure, boiling fuel, and float levels. Edelbrock recommends setting your fuel pressure regulator to 5.5 psi, no more or it causes flooding. You need a heat insulating gasket between the intake and carb like the Edelbrock 9266 to stop the fuel from boiling in the carb. If not, you'll have starting and rough running issues when the truck is at operating temp. The float levels (drop and rise) need to be adjusted to Edelbrock specs, or you'll also have flooding and other issues. Also, check your lines for kinks, leaks or clogs.
@@paulkessler8622 the timing is good, fuel is set to 5.5, the engine sounds amazing no noises. I'm thinkin too little vacuum to the th400 possibly i know I'm having a throttle issue so im gonna adjust the throttle cable and see if that does anything my biggest concern is why would it be so sluggish in the gear? The trans is a good runner
@@brandonsanders8081 How did you set your timing and what is it actually set at? Was the vacuum advance connected while setting timing? Which distributor and how many degrees of mechanical advance and vacuum advance (separately, not combined)? What are your spark plugs gapped to? I don't feel it's the tranny, but you never know. Check your tranny modulator and vacuum line condition. When checking your throttle, make sure it's adjusted in sync so when you floor the pedal, the carb is at wide open throttle (WOT) as well.
Turned it over till I felt compression. Put the screw driver in 1 rotated till the piston was at the top. Stabbed the dizzy with the rotor pointing at 1st cylinder. I think I may have actually set timing with the vacuum advance hooked up. When its running I can put it at a perfect idle but as soon as i drop it in gear itll die but if I get out and adjust it to as far advanced as it'll go in park it idles probably 3k then when I drop in gear itll go not fast or touchy by any means but itll go up to 55 but thats on its own idle. Ive had previous issues with the vacuum actuator line breaking off on the trans I have it rigged with high preasure 3/8rubber line from carb to trans actuator. Spark plugs are gapped
.035.
@@brandonsanders8081 Ok, re-time the engine with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Set total timing, not initial. Does your vehicle have emissions equipment? If so, you'll unfortunately have to hook up the vac advance to ported vac. If not, you want it on manifold vac. Afte reconnecting vac advance, set your idle speed to 750 rpm in drive. Your spark plugs should be gapped to .035 for points, or .045 for HEI.
You mentioned 12° advanced, what does that look like? Where does the crank pulley need to pointing? On the 4 6 or 8 mark?
That’s 12 before tdc
@@sirjohnahayfalcon yes. My dumb ass figured it out. I was making it harder than it was
The vacuum tube to distributor advance mechanism has no vacuum source. No need to plug that tube if you disconnect from carb. Maybe keep a bug out! Carb settings may change since carb now has a vacuum leak. What might be better is disconnect tube at distributor. Then when you plug tube no carb mixture change. Since it is to be plugged to a ported vacuum, little change may occur at idle. Could run a little leaner at mid range with that open vacuum port.
Good morning I am striving to get my 350 timing right. Will the timing stop it from starting at all?
yes it can
One of us is messed up and I am taking no bets..... But I have the same setup, same truck model, et al. I went over the booklet with my Edlebrock and I swore the vacuum advance hose was supposed to be coming from the right (DS) tube on the front of the carb. You have it on the left one. Which is correct. I am tuning mine as we speak, so I will switch and see if there is any difference. Then I will dig out the instruction manual again and re-read.
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
Digging the Military issue Oakley's, have a couple sets myself.
my 69 Chevrolet C10 back fires under load for example if I'm traveling on a small grade or hill in 1st? Could this be a distributor timing issue?
Or a flat lobe on your cam
Backfiring from the carb is a timing issue. Backfiring from exhaust is a rich mixture issue
My car does too! Did you fix ?
Is the timing light just used to get you close and the you dial it in by feel?
I RECALL DROPPING THE hold down screw for the points down in the distributor having to take distributor out,some people thought the hold down screw held the whole car together,over tighting it😃.
Do you have to re adjust the carbs idle.? I'm having trouble with idle since I replaced my distributor.
I had to adjust my idle screw to get it almost right along with turning the cap. It ran better with idle screw turned more counter clockwise then I adjusted the cap. It silinced some noises too
So you always remove the air breather when you set timing? Why is that? Just dropped in a 350 TBI. Is the sequence different
No, it's not necessary to remove the breather. There's no reason to.
I went from sea level to 6000'+ elevation, should I adjust it to run advanced? how do I make it run leaner
Where can I buy a timing light product u have there my girlfriend has a 1979 chevy 1500 pickup and it's having trouble with the timing and it has already been fixed 3 times. So I want her to be happy with a fixed up running smoothly truck from her late grandfather truck.
Definitely going to help me next weekend when I go to time my truck
Awesome video thank you for your help. Just curious on your thoughts for a 1970 stock 350 w/rochester 4bbl. Do you prefer ported or manifold vacuum for your distributor advance vacuum source?
Has to be ported
Some distributors have centrifugal weights inside, they dont have any vacuum line.
Sometimes they get rusty & wont spring anymore.
GM engineers found through all of their years of testing that small blocks run best at ~36 degrees before top dead center total timing (~32 if using vortec heads). They also found vacuum advance is most beneficial when connected to full manifold vacuum (meaning the vac port you connect to is pulling vacuum at idle). All vac advance does, is add supplemental timing for low load conditions (idle and cruise) to make the air fuel mixture burn at the proper rate. Lean mixtures (idle and cruise) burn slower than rich mixtures (accelerating or wot) so the fire needs to be lit earlier, which vac advance enables to happen. When connecting vac advance to a ported vac source, you won't have the needed additional timing at idle for that lean mixture (although important, a lot of people dismiss this because how much time do you really spend at idle anyhow?). Also, with ported vac, you'll be adding timing during acceleration to a rich mixture that actually requires LESS timing, not more (which contributes to detonation). Using your vac advance connected to manifold vac, slightly improves mpg, helps with engine cooling, and generally improves engine efficiency.
That's good. Is this the same for a 4.3 tbi v6 ..i want to make sure i don't break any good parts
hey hagerty..i have a question...my 1988 chevy got the marked painted over...how will i know when timing is set right?
You'll have to verify top dead center (TDC) on your balancer with a piston stop and make new timing marks.
So I am adjusting my timing how can I tell which way is advance going clock wise or counter clockwise?
Can a bad ignition timing make your engine get stuck because my engine got a little stuck but it got unstuck and it was running again
Which way are you suppose to turn the distributor to advance it?
that starter needs shimmed it sounds like but amazing video. im doing a full spark tuneup on my oldsmobile cutlass. this was greatly needed.
If the vacuum advance is hooked up to carburetor port vacuum, it has no vacuum at idle. So Why unhook it ?
I have a 350 in a T Bucket I didn't build it but believe it's all stock should I be setting it at he 12 degrees that you mentioned, also have Hagerty insurance
I got a 86 elco I set mines at 10 and my total timing is 35- 36 under load
Do I set balancer @12 or set timing light at 12 for 350 chevy
Very good, you should complete instructions about reattached vacuum hose
I set mine at full advance,, and check for spark knock on take off if none your good and get most out of your engine,,, and if you really want performance run high test fuel,,,the more you can advance without preignition the better it will run,,
can i use that type of timing gun in reverse to figure out what my timing mark should be? meaning if i set the dial on the gun till i find that the marks are on zero the marks on gun would be my timing mark ??/
hi could you tell me what revs the engine was set at to adjust the timming. thanks
at the factory spec for hot idle.
(ie; my '77 k10, with an HEI, a quadrajet, and a manual trans, is 700rpm)
once you re-attach the vacum advance, you will have to re-adjust idle speed, as the engine will speed-up.
Question... just replaced the oil gasket pan on a 72 chevelle. Lifted the engine up to do this. After putting everything back in place and adjusting cannot get it to start. It turns over but backs fire but no real start. Thought it was the distributor but everything looks correct on that. Was told to adjust timing but how can I do so when it won't start? Frustrated to say the least. Advice please.
Well how is the Velle? all dialed in?
Got a Chevy 350 4 barrel carb, initial timing is on but it still won’t start cranks and almost runs but I hear a popping noise. Any thoughts or hints?
maybe a tooth off
Hey bud i have a 4 barrel carb Rochester ,that was running with timing a bit advance and the carburetor would bog/ sound like if it would want to turn off but never did. And have to crank it over with gas several time to start it. So I took it to a mechanic he told it was to advanced in the time that's how I know and he properly timed it and it now starts right up. So I was extremely happy. BUT then when I would want to floor it the carb would back fire so I took it back and he said that he thinks I need bigger jets for more gas . What do you think could be causing the backfire? I
I thought dial lights you set your degrees on dail then move dist to TDC?
I have 1980 C10 Silverado 350 5.7 my vacuum advance it's almost hitting the intake manifold, my truck starts at this location. Do i have to restab,the distributor for the vacuum advance to be set properly
No...you can move your wires forward or backward on the cap to change the location of vac advance
Is it possible to adjust a timing chain from scratch on a 2015 chev malibu? I rotated the sprockets
Why did you time it at 12 degrees? Those old chevy timed at 4 degrees even when my 350 was a 420 horse it was only 10 degrees... LOVE MY HAGERTY INS.
Because 4 degrees is for emissions engines. The 72 he used in the video has no emissions equipment so it will run best at about 14-16 degrees initial and 36-38 degrees total timing
Don't know if you can help me or not. I have a 1955 chevy 265 v 8, I had the distributor out because of a problem and now that I found that wasn't my problem after all. I lined up the rotor with #1 cylinder and it seems it's still out of time. it will start and run. But it back fires, I've moved the dist. both ways with no luck. I have new plugs, wires and check the gas. lost
Do you time by vacuum gage, to set at best compression also, what is the negative or positive by this method
The engine is nothing more than a vacuum pump, but using a vac gauge is not the right way to set timing. Back in the day they did it by finding highest vacuum while turning the distributor and setting it there. You can still do that, but you need to follow up with a timing light for it to be exact. Set it to 36 degrees total timing
Hope this comment section still gets responses. I have an 84 corvette and had in the shop to have a pick up coil replaced due to no spark and fuel. So, that part is repaired and now I was told after it was put back together that they can’t get it timed and is running absolutely horrible. I did a complete tune up on it with no improvement. And recommendations would help.
Did you ever get that issue fixed?
@@toddrhine7648 Yeah man. The idiots at the shop put the wires on backwards to the control module. That was the whole reason the car wouldn’t run. I fixed it then and has been driving like new ever since
Thanks for checkout up!!
I've got a S10 with a sbc 350 I believe, I bought it like this and the guy wasn't sure what it came out of so, I've been buying parts for a 74 camaro so I replaced the timing chain and gear at the time didn't know to mark everything or to even line up at 6 and 12 at top dead center well I put it back as it came off took it for a ride and was running rough so then, i found out to line up the marks so I took it apart and lined up the marks as I thought I was supposed to but has very little fire and what fire it does have is yellow spark and now has a whining noise as it turns over and it sounds like it's bubbling out the exhaust. Any ideas, on what I've done?
Hello what model edelbrock carb is that just curious looking to purchase that same one buddy thanks great vid
1406 series
If you can bump the key and it fires up and idles. Timing is good to go
love the 3 pedals no problem shirt!!!! and thx for the video...
Where do i get one of those three pedal shirts that you was wearing in video? Thanks
I have a 1981corvette 350 5.7l rebuild engine with more power,how far can I advance yhe timer ,2 or 4
Question when I install harmonic balancer .. i wasn’t pay attention.. went turning so how can I fix 12 and 6 without take off timing cover ?
to get your 12/6 position,,,remove NO1 spark plug and NO3,,,on intake stroke both will be TDC
I did this to a tee. Idled great. Hooked up the vacuum on my rochester 2 barrel and the timing immediately advanced. It backfires and runs bad. Any suggestions???
Every other time I drive my350 I get pings and when I goose the gas I’ll get backfiring. Wich way should I rotate my distributor?
I got a problem. I haven’t been able to figure out or anybody. I have a 1964 Chevy Impala at 3:27 engine. I do believe it has a small cam. It has headers in the morning. It starts perfect once I drive the car around for you a while after that the cranking to start is very weak to the point where it cranks to the point where it wants to waste my battery brand new battery brand new starter only when the car gets hot.
Does the distributor turning work the same as on a 99 vortec? I got really slow cranking
Yes. It's the same
Nice video. Very clear. Great Job.
As you turn the Distributor it would be nice to know ccw or cw advances...
I think Counter clockwise will advance the timing if I'm not mistaken, I believe the button cap in the distributor turns clockwise so the twisting the distributor counterclockwise will time it earlier, fixing to try this on my truck without the timing light. Took the air pump and charcoal canister off because it wasn't working properly and I think the motor is timed differently with emissions than without
You can set these by ear, not sure why you would even need a timing light
How should we know what the degrees should be and does timing change if not naturally aspirated
Timing changes if not NA