Good idea to check the physical connection of the paddle wheel sensor unit. Recently another Vlog, Lady K sailing took on a lot of water and ruined some expensive electronics when the sensor cracked and let copious amounts into and over the bilges. The break went undetected for quite a while because both crew were topsides minding the sails. That unit is afterall a through-hull fitting. It was probably cracked for a long time but when they hit some pounding seas on the bow it gave way and let seawater in. A very expensive mess it was. Great video and thanks.
2 parts isn't necessary in a problem solving video. I'd rather finish what I started. Also, if I'm using your video as a solution to my own issue finding the second part can be a big problem. Constructive criticism only--love your style and the content is always great.
Yes, I understand what you're saying. When I post sets I put internal links in both directions for those who visit later, to solve that very problem. Many videos that I like to watch, like those by Scannerdanner, are just too long for me to view in one sitting. So, I have a long list of his videos I plan to watch when I have a spare hour (grin). I'm working on part 2 today, and I think it will be better (at least more entertaining) than part 1. Trying to walk the balance of consistent entertainment and appropriate detail is always a challenge. Thank you for taking the time to watch and contribute!
Everything looks fine at the moment and I'll be curious to see what you find out of why it's working intermittently. Nice demonstration Dave of looking forward to part 2...
curious why a boat would have a paddle wheel and peetoe water sensor for speedo? Don't they do the same thing? I ask as I have both and never paid much attention.
Good question! The difference between paddle wheel speed and GPS speed is water current, which is very significant given the tides we experience. It took me a few years to realize that programs for tacking angle use a frame of reference to be the moving body of water, not land. So, they use paddlewheel speed rather than GPS speed to determine the true and apparent angle of the wind to the mast. Unfortunately the assumption is that the paddlewheel is accurate, which unfortunately is not true. Even with careful fine tuning, I find it difficult to get it within 10%, almost never within 5%. So, as much as it is cool to use true wind angles to decide on exact tacking angles for optimum velocity made good, the real experts use gut instinct.
I was thinking a bar magnet in the paddle and hall effect sensor picking it up. So that lines up with your info text, im only now reading lol. I would connect a logic probe instead of the meter, the buzzer type, so you can waggle all the connections and hear the logic 1 jump about. Sorry im jibbering on again :-(
Yes you're right, a simple Hall sensor, and I did check, each of the four arms are strongly magnetic. Old sailing wisdom describes how vigorous cleaning could knock a magnet off, but these are completely covered in plastic. Yeah, I could have used a test light or a noid light; I don't have a dedicated logic probe. Mostly I wanted to see the waveform, though I like to pretend it was for more than just giggles. I tested it overnight looking for failure or inconsistency at different temperatures -- consistent performance throughout. Thanks for stopping by, as always.
Yes indeed, you sound like a veteran sailor! My last sailboat had few electronics, and even GPS was with a little hand held so I didn't need to worry about draining the starting battery. This one has three 12V AGM batteries and I use the autopilot regularly since we often sail short handed. The autopilot requires GPS input, and together with the VHF radio they draw 6 amps. The processor displays water depth, which is pretty important since when racing we often hang close to the rocks when fighting against tidal current. These racing boats have optimum algorithms based on true wind angle, which comes from vector calculations combining boat speed and apparent wind speed/angle measured at the top of the mast. However I find that my instinct about wind in the face is often a more trustworthy index regarding sailing angle and when to tack. The best sailors never rely on electronics. Thanks for watching!
I got the 88V online and on sale, but I don't think it shows RMS voltage like its better and more modern cousin, the 87V. RMS is not very critical for automotive work, where I spend most of my time. The 88V comes with automotive accessories like a thermal temp gauge and a capacitive pickup lead, but those aren't very useful since I use a scope for the latter and I never use the former. One thing I would like is a lowZ option for voltage assessment, it is surprising how often we see ghost voltage in a line. I have a cheaper Fluke 117 for that. I'd love to have graphing and logging capability, something like the Fluke 289, but that one is way out of my price range.
Your videos are a rare but valued commodity. Always worth a watch no matter the length.
Good idea to check the physical connection of the paddle wheel sensor unit. Recently another Vlog, Lady K sailing took on a lot of water and ruined some expensive electronics when the sensor cracked and let copious amounts into and over the bilges. The break went undetected for quite a while because both crew were topsides minding the sails. That unit is afterall a through-hull fitting. It was probably cracked for a long time but when they hit some pounding seas on the bow it gave way and let seawater in. A very expensive mess it was. Great video and thanks.
I hope to get part 2 of this paddlewheel repair video onstream by Friday. In retrospect the simplicity of these older analog systems is appealing.
Great instructional video as always. Great to see a video from you again. I always enjoy them. Looking forward to part 2!
Thanks, man!
2 parts isn't necessary in a problem solving video. I'd rather finish what I started. Also, if I'm using your video as a solution to my own issue finding the second part can be a big problem.
Constructive criticism only--love your style and the content is always great.
Yes, I understand what you're saying. When I post sets I put internal links in both directions for those who visit later, to solve that very problem. Many videos that I like to watch, like those by Scannerdanner, are just too long for me to view in one sitting. So, I have a long list of his videos I plan to watch when I have a spare hour (grin). I'm working on part 2 today, and I think it will be better (at least more entertaining) than part 1. Trying to walk the balance of consistent entertainment and appropriate detail is always a challenge. Thank you for taking the time to watch and contribute!
Good demonstration :)
Eric, I'm so pleased to see you visit, thank you. I work through your excellent set of automotive videos every day.
Dave.
Maybe a bit of content on the waterside marina and at sea sailing, I'm sure we'ld all enjoy some of that.
Very good video, can you do something on a boat depth sensor how to check the signal from the depth sensor
Everything looks fine at the moment and I'll be curious to see what you find out of why it's working intermittently. Nice demonstration Dave of looking forward to part 2...
Should be ready tomorrow am, thanks for stopping by, Terry.
Very informative thank you for sharing
Cool
curious why a boat would have a paddle wheel and peetoe water sensor for speedo? Don't they do the same thing? I ask as I have both and never paid much attention.
Good question! The difference between paddle wheel speed and GPS speed is water current, which is very significant given the tides we experience. It took me a few years to realize that programs for tacking angle use a frame of reference to be the moving body of water, not land. So, they use paddlewheel speed rather than GPS speed to determine the true and apparent angle of the wind to the mast. Unfortunately the assumption is that the paddlewheel is accurate, which unfortunately is not true. Even with careful fine tuning, I find it difficult to get it within 10%, almost never within 5%. So, as much as it is cool to use true wind angles to decide on exact tacking angles for optimum velocity made good, the real experts use gut instinct.
Very cool share ! Great to hear from ya man..
Thanks, Shawn. It's fun to see the basics of automotive sensors are also applicable on a boat.
this is awesome and cool
I was thinking a bar magnet in the paddle and hall effect sensor picking it up.
So that lines up with your info text, im only now reading lol.
I would connect a logic probe instead of the meter, the buzzer type, so you can waggle all the connections and hear the logic 1 jump about.
Sorry im jibbering on again :-(
Yes you're right, a simple Hall sensor, and I did check, each of the four arms are strongly magnetic. Old sailing wisdom describes how vigorous cleaning could knock a magnet off, but these are completely covered in plastic. Yeah, I could have used a test light or a noid light; I don't have a dedicated logic probe. Mostly I wanted to see the waveform, though I like to pretend it was for more than just giggles. I tested it overnight looking for failure or inconsistency at different temperatures -- consistent performance throughout. Thanks for stopping by, as always.
Just one more thing, its blowing raspburys at you :-D.
Ive had the same thing, it wont fail while being watched lol.
@@spelunkerd heavens sake get cheap gardening thermometer over side,,if its cold put stuff on if hot take off ,its always cold in north sea and uk.
👍👍👍👍👍
Hall effect sensor!
Yes, exactly. Thanks for stopping by!
This begs the question. WhyTF does a boat need a computer?
Yes indeed, you sound like a veteran sailor! My last sailboat had few electronics, and even GPS was with a little hand held so I didn't need to worry about draining the starting battery. This one has three 12V AGM batteries and I use the autopilot regularly since we often sail short handed. The autopilot requires GPS input, and together with the VHF radio they draw 6 amps. The processor displays water depth, which is pretty important since when racing we often hang close to the rocks when fighting against tidal current. These racing boats have optimum algorithms based on true wind angle, which comes from vector calculations combining boat speed and apparent wind speed/angle measured at the top of the mast. However I find that my instinct about wind in the face is often a more trustworthy index regarding sailing angle and when to tack. The best sailors never rely on electronics. Thanks for watching!
I'll let you "paddle me" if you give me that Fluke 🤓
I got the 88V online and on sale, but I don't think it shows RMS voltage like its better and more modern cousin, the 87V. RMS is not very critical for automotive work, where I spend most of my time. The 88V comes with automotive accessories like a thermal temp gauge and a capacitive pickup lead, but those aren't very useful since I use a scope for the latter and I never use the former. One thing I would like is a lowZ option for voltage assessment, it is surprising how often we see ghost voltage in a line. I have a cheaper Fluke 117 for that. I'd love to have graphing and logging capability, something like the Fluke 289, but that one is way out of my price range.