After installing bars on this Road Glide, we ran in to multiple issues causing a WOBBLE. This was my process working through it, pin pointing it, and improving the issue.
The other thing is the neck bearings and the bushings are crap in the baggers.. I put apes on my bagger and they would vibrate and felt like they were bolted to a sponge.. put in nice neoprene bushings and it was alot better.. you would be surprised by how a front tire on a heavy bagger will affect handling wether it's old or broken belts or a hard compound
Man, you stuck with that and made it right for the customer. Hell yeah man! The world needs more honest and good mechanics like you. Glad you found the issue. I bet that customer is enjoying his new bars and a wobble free bike.
I have a friend who has a 2005 Dyna Superglide. He had a death wobble issue. How we solved it was: Arlen Ness Fork Braces, replacing both front and rear wheel bearings, replacing Neck bearings and races, installing SPUTHE engine stabilizers (FRONT and REAR). We put on new tires and had the wheels balanced. That took care of most of the Death Wobble issues. Other faults can lie with the Swingarm Bushing and Motormounts. In all honesty a Death Wobble has many causes, and the rider has to be very diligent in going through each item and fixing it. As they fix it the vibrations become less and less. IF in a Death Wobble situation: MOVE your Weight all the way over your gas tank and cut the throttle. You will want to move your weight as far forward as possible. There are death wobbles on the front end as well as those dominating the backend. CHANGE the WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION on the Chassis and reduce speed. You want to BREAK the chain of Positive Reinforcement (Resounance) in vibrations.
I have a simple rule for any bike.. if you get a wobble or deflection anytime you run over a join in the road ( going the same direction as you) or when you hit a bump, its time for a new front tyre. As a front tyre wears, its gets a “hump” in the center.. that makes it easy to get knocked off line..
I know this video is several months old, but I went through the same shit with my 2013 RG, I bought it from a friend who laid it down and bent some front end parts, I replaced the parts with new ones and even installed a new tire. It had a wobble on deceleration just like the one on here. After racking a few brain cells I purchased a new tire from a local dealer and all the problems magically went away. A brand new tire was bad. Never think just because something is new that it can't be bad, go figure. Great video.
Great video and diagnosis!! Same problem on the Goldwings normally is traced to worn/loose upper and lower (ball) bearings in the triple crown steering head and/or tire wear/pressure. Keep the shiny side up!
When I was road racing the biggest cause of wobbles was rear alignment and front wheel alignment. Many times the front or rear wheel did not king up. After making a square around the the bike I would corrected the alignment no more wobbles.
A lot of people neglect wheel alignment, you can't trust markers on the swingarm, a straight edge or stringline is needed to check the rear wheel runs true to the front.
I know the tire fixed it - for now ! Make sure the wheels are aligned. The engine, transmission, swingarm & rear wheel all move together but separately from the frame & front end (pre 2009) While on a frame jack, string the wheels and adjust the 2 engine mount links as needed. This will improve handling & save your tires from creating an issue again.
This is why the softail b engine is so much smoother with the internal balancing but I'm wanting to take it out cause it's one less thing to break.. those front motor mounts wear out quite often.. also the rear swingarms are known to flex in the baggers
Tires will drive u insane!! I damn near rebuilt a bike only to find out my 3 month old tire was the issue…bit I even had a bike w a bad rear shock that would create a vibrate/wobble feel while slowing down …a lot of time yeah the motor mounts need the wobble kit installed …but damn the tires!
What I noticed with my old 2007 heritage Softail. The more the front tire wore down the more I noticed that it would wobble. Not to bad but it was enough to know the tire would wear funny from everyday riding
What a drag when you add something to your bike to make it cooler and better and it turns out bad and costs you time and money and worse, your life. I know the feeling all to well. Maybe he should have just went back to the bars that were on there and see if the wobble stopped.
Motor mounts wheel bearings and may a frame stabilizer gixxer foo has a very helpful and easy to understand video about the harley death wobble that doesn't exist let harley tell it but I wouldn't ride anything else lol great video buddy
I also have an 06 RG with 99K. I got the death wobble when I didnt have it before. So its not the bike pre say. But worn out bushing all around. Every 2nd or 3rd tire I change the wheel bearings. Also I saw tires with 4 - 6 ply tires. Soft side walls and worn swing arm bushings will give a wobble as well as worn front fork bushings. Im in the process of changing out my swing arm bushing as well as front forks rebuild and seals.
My 2012 Wide glide had ten inch raised and 2 inch pull back bars. They two were uneven, with the visual of being off center.. No matter what we did we couldn’t change it.. but in the two years I rode it, it caused no problems.
Wobble on a Harley Davidson is incredibly difficult to track down because many things combine to cause wobble & because of the rubber mounting on the Touring models. There is a lot of power and weight. I've put brand new tires on my old Street Glide and had a terrible wobble and i Had a steering damper and an extra stabilizer on the frame, kinda expensive but I changed the tires again & poof wobble was gone. Even a couple of psi in tire pressure can cause the problem, so start there...
I had the same problem on my road king 2004 with 21 inch rim on the front, it was the motor mount and the swing arm bushing were bad. After 10K you have the change both of them see HD manual , also the tire pressure make it happen to. that is why the rear tire look uneven. swing is moving around also need new new tires. or will not stop the wobble.
Hell don't question your ability. Look at it as a learning process. Sometimes we all learn things the hard way just like you are working through everything you can think of.
I have found that replacing even a slightly worn front tire with a new one of a completely different make, model, tread pattern etc is the surest way to solve a naggling bar wobble on a bike... ANY bike. Apparently, certain tread patterns can wear to a specific peculiar shape that can cause a weird wobble on certain bikes at certain stages of acceleration/deceleration. (I hope that made sense.)
I had the same case on 2013 Road Glide CVO very small mileage 12k. Ive checked everything. And finaly the reason was unexpected…. skewed clutch shaft. It was possible to see after open primary cover and remove chain. The clutch had visible runout. Necessary was replace shaft.
That’s insane! Also good to know, because that is one of the last places I would ever look to cause that issue. Thanks for sharing your experience, glad you got it taken care of!
I know you have fixed the trouble, but would like to add, If the wheel bearings have any play on the inner race. go brand new, because it interferes with the fork tube alignment.
What I did with that custom tire and rim on mine to solve the bearing issue was I used two bearings on each side. Their thinner but work well. And take up the same space as the stock. And should last much longer in the end. As well I used the mini apes over the kind you’ve installed. Seemed to avoid the whole problem all together.
those risers will move/twist no matter on how hard you tighten the bolts, the risers should have been made out one block also the lower part of the risers need bigger area to make the twisting motion less , if someone hasnt mentioned this be4,
I just watched a vid yesterday about the "straight shooter" alignment tool and another once called "dead nuts" I think. One guy said EVERY Harley comes out of the factory out of alignment because the engine weight is shifted to one side which is tied to the tranny and the swingarm or something like that. They showed the alignment process and I couldn't help but wonder if this is the issue with most bikes. Everything from the forks to the read tire has to be aligned. I'm not mechanic but it made sense to me
I have always called that oscillation a "tank-slapper because it's front end issues. I've seen it so bad the tabs on lower triple tree are hitting stops on neck , full lock! But all the while the cycle continues straight ahead for just a little bit longer then you part company violently. The "death wobble" starts as a little snakey movement from the rear that gets much worse pdq. I had been warned by seller but I just had to see for myself. Guess what? He wasn't kidding! A '98 FXD. All it was in my case was 23 year old front&rear "isolators".
I had this problem with a bike I bought and when you would let offf the throttle at low speed the bars would shake like hell. AS luck would have it the rear tire was won't so, I opted to replace both the front and rear tires. Problems solved the front tire was bad..
I got one coming in today for a wobble! That mount looks rough, and if that tires old maybe the belts starting to separate? Try putting a new balanced tire on without the balance beads.
Yupp, I have a fancy new wheel and tire mounted on it, I just need some hardware the the brembo brakes we are putting on and it should be good to go 🤞🏻
I have a Harley Davidson electric guide 2017 I had the same problem in the front end and it was the stock Harley tires the And 7 tires put new Dunlap elites on it and it went away
Happened to me on my bike. I went from stock was dunlop. Then changed to I think it was metzler tires. The wobble came in around 85, Change back to stock tire. Front end never wobbled after that.
im having the same issue with the same style and year bike. i got new motor mounts new rotors new pads new wheel bearings a new tire that was balance less then 250 miles.
Let us know....Interesting issue.... I had a set of risers that were drilled and tapped wrong causing bars to look crooked....but bike did not have the wobble....let us know...
Gday mate I don’t know if you have checked the bottom triple tree pinch bolts too the fork legs I kno on the fat boys / heritage they have a issue of snapping every now a then
I had the cover the hides them exposed when I did the bars originally. Although I did not put a wrench on them, I never noticed anything out of place. I’m looking for a couple pieces to finish the brakes we are putting on the bike with the new wheels, and if it’s not solved I’ll definitely check. Thanks for the suggestion!
I just bought a 2009 Ultra Classic. I noticed at appx 20 to 25 mph when I hit a bump, about a half second later I have a wobble. Do you think it's the tire or wheel bearings/forks?
Remember to never inject variables. When lost in the woods go back to your starting point. You figured it out but u got luck it wasn’t because of your troubleshooting logic. You w Can’t ever know what straight is unless you have a machined known. None of that plastic is even close to straight. Anyway glad u got lucky.
Replace both mounts with rubber harley davidson mounts only. Polyurethane has different hysteresis that is not ideal for a harley. Use rubber handlebar bushings also with harley davidson parts and have a good tire shop who deals with motorcycles balance front tire the right way if tire is old dont even think about it ,just replace it and last but not least this problem has nothing to do w the job you did ,its shit luck ,unless your hauling cement in those bags i dont think riding position or weight distribution has anything to do with it
i have a that same little wobble but mine doesnt come on till around 90 and in have new tires and bearings and bushings just did a big bore and i cant figure out the issue
Yeah it ended up just being a bad tire. All my problems were solved when we changed it out. I appreciate you offering sending the book on that. I actually got one for bagger models up to 09 after this
@@GilstrapGarage have you started the move yet?? If so hopefully everything is going well... it's going to be a big change for you guys moving from Cali to this area where life is more relaxed and enjoyable... I used to drive truck from Illinois to California and back.. Cali is a great place for vacation but I couldn't live there especially with their gun laws and just how crazy expensive it is
Over tightening a bolt will not torgue correctLY You will screech the bolt and then lose yield and get wrong torque spec !A million reason's why you got the death wobble
That's the kind of gremlin that makes a tech want to throw his toolbox in the trash. I chased this with a friend's bike for a week and found new front tire was out of round. Replaced tire, problem solved.
That’s what I’m hoping for. I’m putting the wheel on right now, but I don’t have hardware for his new calipers he wanted 🙄 I’ll know soon though if it solves it!
What were you thinking? First, why would you put "a lot of" Loctite on the bolts? A lot does no more than a little. Second, why in the world would you over-torque the bolt? That's insane! Your asking for those bolts to break while riding and I've seen that actually happen to someone on an HD because some idiot over-torgued the bolt. I'm serious. It's a miracle he wasn't killed. Also, you can't tell if a wheel is balanced just by looking at it. You should NOT. be working on bikes. Almost everything you say makes no sense.
I use extra loctite on rider bolts because it’s something I’ve seen vibrate loose over and over again. I went a few lbs over on the bolts. The aluminum threads would pull out of the risers before those bolts broke. And I got to the source of the issue. It was the wheel that wore funny. But thanks for the input, Bob. I’ll be workin on bikes for many years to come.
Typical decell wobble. Long thread and finally a new front tire is the fix. Should have changed the front tire first and saved everyone a lot of grief.
Engine is probably out of alignment, making rear tire aware funny they make a bunch of fixes for that wrist stabilizer link that’s adjustable and there’s a frame company that sells front engine stabilizer also adjustable, and the tool that sets up on the rear shocks for the adjustment. I forget the name look them up on TH-cam.
@@GilstrapGarage yeah I was actually talking about two poles on a riser the first riser I forgot to mention that but the other bars you put on live a lot better anyway
@@christophercummins4946 ahhh I see what you’re saying. I absolutely did check that though too. I assembled them a few different times off and on the bike in different orders to look for all that. It wasn’t until I put the solid top clamp back on that I could see the bend in One of them. My guess would be whoever owned them originally dropped the bike, and then sold the bars
This only happens on deceleration - handlebars, transmission, engine balancers ... could not cause this condition. Front wheel/tire balance/bearings and rear wheel tracking (engine mt adjustments) are a good place to start
There’s a little bit of work in to getting some of that stuff to fit, but the aftermarket has really taken off with the “performance” thing and it’s gotten a lot easier.
People, just remember a tank slapper is up FRONT. A death wobble is coming from the Back. There are many causes associated with either of those horrible experiences. Either one CAN KILL YOU
For everyone wondering, the new tire fixed the issue!
What was it ? Pressure ? Bolts ? Tread ?
@@caypiranha1383 it was tread wear. And the tire was about 12 years old lol
The other thing is the neck bearings and the bushings are crap in the baggers.. I put apes on my bagger and they would vibrate and felt like they were bolted to a sponge.. put in nice neoprene bushings and it was alot better.. you would be surprised by how a front tire on a heavy bagger will affect handling wether it's old or broken belts or a hard compound
Glad you found it.
Oh sick, thank you
Man, you stuck with that and made it right for the customer. Hell yeah man! The world needs more honest and good mechanics like you. Glad you found the issue. I bet that customer is enjoying his new bars and a wobble free bike.
He sold it a month or two after and got another dyna 😂 but somebody is enjoying it lol
That's what i was saying, this guy was like i would not want my bike doing that so im fixing this, bless you my man, good job!
I have a friend who has a 2005 Dyna Superglide. He had a death wobble issue. How we solved it was: Arlen Ness Fork Braces, replacing both front and rear wheel bearings, replacing Neck bearings and races, installing SPUTHE engine stabilizers (FRONT and REAR).
We put on new tires and had the wheels balanced.
That took care of most of the Death Wobble issues.
Other faults can lie with the Swingarm Bushing and Motormounts.
In all honesty a Death Wobble has many causes, and the rider has to be very diligent in going through each item and fixing it.
As they fix it the vibrations become less and less.
IF in a Death Wobble situation: MOVE your Weight all the way over your gas tank and cut the throttle.
You will want to move your weight as far forward as possible.
There are death wobbles on the front end as well as those dominating the backend.
CHANGE the WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION on the Chassis and reduce speed.
You want to BREAK the chain of Positive Reinforcement (Resounance) in vibrations.
I have a simple rule for any bike.. if you get a wobble or deflection anytime you run over a join in the road ( going the same direction as you) or when you hit a bump, its time for a new front tyre. As a front tyre wears, its gets a “hump” in the center.. that makes it easy to get knocked off line..
I know this video is several months old, but I went through the same shit with my 2013 RG, I bought it from a friend who laid it down and bent some front end parts, I replaced the parts with new ones and even installed a new tire. It had a wobble on deceleration just like the one on here. After racking a few brain cells I purchased a new tire from a local dealer and all the problems magically went away. A brand new tire was bad. Never think just because something is new that it can't be bad, go figure. Great video.
Also check into how many ply's a tire has too. Weak side walls will it too
Thanks for shooting these videos! Your peculiar easy-to-understand manner of information delivery will win a decent amount of auditory
Thank you! I just bought some equipment to help with audio, too. Im constantly trying to improve
Great video and diagnosis!! Same problem on the Goldwings normally is traced to worn/loose upper and lower (ball) bearings in the triple crown steering head and/or tire wear/pressure. Keep the shiny side up!
You’re information is so freely given. This is why I’m a subscriber of your channel.
Thanks man! I definitely don’t know everything, but I love sharing what I do know. And it’s nice to show the struggle of troubleshooting sometimes too
When I was road racing the biggest cause of wobbles was rear alignment and front wheel alignment. Many times the front or rear wheel did not king up. After making a square around the the bike I would corrected the alignment no more wobbles.
🙌🏻🙌🏻
A lot of people neglect wheel alignment, you can't trust markers on the swingarm, a straight edge or stringline is needed to check the rear wheel runs true to the front.
Thanks for covering this one. And dang that motormount!
Yeah I’m definitely going to recommend replacing it 😬 but I’m at the will of the owner
I know the tire fixed it - for now !
Make sure the wheels are aligned.
The engine, transmission, swingarm & rear wheel all move together but separately from the frame & front end (pre 2009)
While on a frame jack, string the wheels and adjust the 2 engine mount links as needed. This will improve handling & save your tires from creating an issue again.
It is the tire. Just about any worn tire on any bike will induce that kind of wobble in the handlebars if you let go of them.
This is why the softail b engine is so much smoother with the internal balancing but I'm wanting to take it out cause it's one less thing to break.. those front motor mounts wear out quite often.. also the rear swingarms are known to flex in the baggers
Tires will drive u insane!! I damn near rebuilt a bike only to find out my 3 month old tire was the issue…bit I even had a bike w a bad rear shock that would create a vibrate/wobble feel while slowing down …a lot of time yeah the motor mounts need the wobble kit installed …but damn the tires!
Make a man go insane! Lol
What I noticed with my old 2007 heritage Softail. The more the front tire wore down the more I noticed that it would wobble. Not to bad but it was enough to know the tire would wear funny from everyday riding
What a drag when you add something to your bike to make it cooler and better and it turns out bad and costs you time and money and worse, your life. I know the feeling all to well.
Maybe he should have just went back to the bars that were on there and see if the wobble stopped.
Motor mounts wheel bearings and may a frame stabilizer gixxer foo has a very helpful and easy to understand video about the harley death wobble that doesn't exist let harley tell it but I wouldn't ride anything else lol great video buddy
I just watched that video! Thanks for the recommendation. I’m hoping before we have to go to those extremes, we can solve it with the tire 🤞🏻
I also have an 06 RG with 99K. I got the death wobble when I didnt have it before. So its not the bike pre say. But worn out bushing all around. Every 2nd or 3rd tire I change the wheel bearings. Also I saw tires with 4 - 6 ply tires. Soft side walls and worn swing arm bushings will give a wobble as well as worn front fork bushings. Im in the process of changing out my swing arm bushing as well as front forks rebuild and seals.
Every time I had a "no hands decel" wobble , it was the tire. Usually around 40mph
My 2012 Wide glide had ten inch raised and 2 inch pull back bars. They two were uneven, with the visual of being off center.. No matter what we did we couldn’t change it.. but in the two years I rode it, it caused no problems.
Wobble on a Harley Davidson is incredibly difficult to track down because many things combine to cause wobble & because of the rubber
mounting on the Touring models. There is a lot of power and weight. I've put brand new tires on my old Street Glide and had a terrible wobble and i Had a steering damper and an extra stabilizer on the frame, kinda expensive but I changed the tires again & poof wobble was gone. Even a couple of psi in tire pressure can cause the problem, so start there...
I had the same problem on my road king 2004 with 21 inch rim on the front, it was the motor mount and the swing arm bushing were bad. After 10K you have the change both of them see HD manual , also the tire pressure make it happen to. that is why the rear tire look uneven. swing is moving around also need new new tires. or will not stop the wobble.
Hell don't question your ability. Look at it as a learning process. Sometimes we all learn things the hard way just like you are working through everything you can think of.
Thanks for the input eddie! I definitely don’t give up on a problem, I know that.
Thanks bro great information real mechanic
🤙🏻🤙🏻 thanks for watching!
I have found that replacing even a slightly worn front tire with a new one of a completely different make, model, tread pattern etc is the surest way to solve a naggling bar wobble on a bike... ANY bike. Apparently, certain tread patterns can wear to a specific peculiar shape that can cause a weird wobble on certain bikes at certain stages of acceleration/deceleration. (I hope that made sense.)
Yupp, that’s exactly what the problem was with this bike
I had the same case on 2013 Road Glide CVO very small mileage 12k. Ive checked everything. And finaly the reason was unexpected…. skewed clutch shaft. It was possible to see after open primary cover and remove chain. The clutch had visible runout. Necessary was replace shaft.
That’s insane! Also good to know, because that is one of the last places I would ever look to cause that issue. Thanks for sharing your experience, glad you got it taken care of!
I know you have fixed the trouble, but would like to add, If the wheel bearings have any play on the inner race. go brand new, because it interferes with the fork tube alignment.
What I did with that custom tire and rim on mine to solve the bearing issue was I used two bearings on each side. Their thinner but work well. And take up the same space as the stock. And should last much longer in the end. As well I used the mini apes over the kind you’ve installed. Seemed to avoid the whole problem all together.
those risers will move/twist no matter on how hard you tighten the bolts, the risers should have been made out one block also the lower part of the risers need bigger area to make the twisting motion less , if someone hasnt mentioned this be4,
It prob is the tire. Good luck tho bro, you'll get her fixed up no doubt!
Thank you!
I just watched a vid yesterday about the "straight shooter" alignment tool and another once called "dead nuts" I think. One guy said EVERY Harley comes out of the factory out of alignment because the engine weight is shifted to one side which is tied to the tranny and the swingarm or something like that. They showed the alignment process and I couldn't help but wonder if this is the issue with most bikes. Everything from the forks to the read tire has to be aligned. I'm not mechanic but it made sense to me
Cool video. I bet there are many out there with this issue.
My 143 bagger had a wobble but neck bearing was my problem SOLVED
swingarm bushings put in new ones along with a set of stiffies, and a touring link stabliser, progressive, or true track.
I have always called that oscillation a "tank-slapper because it's front end issues. I've seen it so bad the tabs on lower triple tree are hitting stops on neck , full lock! But all the while the cycle continues straight ahead for just a little bit longer then you part company violently.
The "death wobble" starts as a little snakey movement from the rear that gets much worse pdq.
I had been warned by seller but I just had to see for myself. Guess what? He wasn't kidding! A '98 FXD. All it was in my case was 23 year old front&rear "isolators".
I had this problem with a bike I bought and when you would let offf the throttle at low speed the bars would shake like hell. AS luck would have it the rear tire was won't so, I opted to replace both the front and rear tires. Problems solved the front tire was bad..
I just saw your video.. my risers were machined wrong from the factory, not bent, machined poorly!
I got one coming in today for a wobble! That mount looks rough, and if that tires old maybe the belts starting to separate? Try putting a new balanced tire on without the balance beads.
Yupp, I have a fancy new wheel and tire mounted on it, I just need some hardware the the brembo brakes we are putting on and it should be good to go 🤞🏻
I have a Harley Davidson electric guide 2017 I had the same problem in the front end and it was the stock Harley tires the And 7 tires put new Dunlap elites on it and it went away
Happened to me on my bike. I went from stock was dunlop. Then changed to I think it was metzler tires. The wobble came in around 85, Change back to stock tire. Front end never wobbled after that.
im having the same issue with the same style and year bike. i got new motor mounts new rotors new pads new wheel bearings a new tire that was balance less then 250 miles.
Let us know....Interesting issue.... I had a set of risers that were drilled and tapped wrong causing bars to look crooked....but bike did not have the wobble....let us know...
Will do! I’m just waiting on wheel bearings to show up now and it’ll all go back together
I think WOBBLE be your motor mounts worn, try a Stabliizer kit with NEW Harley Davidson Front/Rear mounts, aftermarket mounts are to soft.
My 2018 road glide special is doing that... I got it used. Pretty sketchy and does it all the time when I let go of the bars
😬 that’s not fun!
I got to be something to do with the change of bar. It was working prior to that.
It’s the tire
does he normally ride with a pillion? Maybe try reducing rear preload to lower the rear a little to see if that eliminates th shake
It all went away when we switched the front tire
Skip to 11:15 and learn.
That tipe of Harley has some woble IV herd
I haven't finished watching yet, but do you have another front wheel/tire you could try on there?
Yessir. I highlighted an update in the comments. We changed the wheel and it cleared up 🤙🏻
Gday mate I don’t know if you have checked the bottom triple tree pinch bolts too the fork legs I kno on the fat boys / heritage they have a issue of snapping every now a then
I had the cover the hides them exposed when I did the bars originally. Although I did not put a wrench on them, I never noticed anything out of place. I’m looking for a couple pieces to finish the brakes we are putting on the bike with the new wheels, and if it’s not solved I’ll definitely check. Thanks for the suggestion!
I just bought a 2009 Ultra Classic. I noticed at appx 20 to 25 mph when I hit a bump, about a half second later I have a wobble. Do you think it's the tire or wheel bearings/forks?
Honestly it’s hard to say without seeing or feeling it. It could be any of those things or a combination of it all
try cleaning all the paint off the mate surfaces
Remember to never inject variables. When lost in the woods go back to your starting point. You figured it out but u got luck it wasn’t because of your troubleshooting logic. You w
Can’t ever know what straight is unless you have a machined known. None of that plastic is even close to straight. Anyway glad u got lucky.
I’ve never had a bike I couldn’t fix. Sometimes I exhaust all my choices and explore other option, but my way works for me. Thanks for watching
I have the same bike and this sort of makes me not want to change the bars now.
It was a worn out tire that caused the issue. It was just amplified with the taller bars
The wobble also could be neck bearings adjusted Too tight!! I’ve experienced that.. not fun!!
Replace both mounts with rubber harley davidson mounts only. Polyurethane has different hysteresis that is not ideal for a harley. Use rubber handlebar bushings also with harley davidson parts and have a good tire shop who deals with motorcycles balance front tire the right way if tire is old dont even think about it ,just replace it and last but not least this problem has nothing to do w the job you did ,its shit luck ,unless your hauling cement in those bags i dont think riding position or weight distribution has anything to do with it
i have a that same little wobble but mine doesnt come on till around 90 and in have new tires and bearings and bushings just did a big bore and i cant figure out the issue
Low oil in forks
That's bad dude
People do the conversion with wheels all the time and don't have issues
Yeah it ended up just being a bad tire. All my problems were solved when we changed it out. I appreciate you offering sending the book on that. I actually got one for bagger models up to 09 after this
@@GilstrapGarage have you started the move yet?? If so hopefully everything is going well... it's going to be a big change for you guys moving from Cali to this area where life is more relaxed and enjoyable... I used to drive truck from Illinois to California and back.. Cali is a great place for vacation but I couldn't live there especially with their gun laws and just how crazy expensive it is
Top engine mount ??maybe
I torqued it really really high, c’mon man!
It probly was like that befor
I have a 2016 street glide special...8,600 miles...and I started to notice the wobble.....what could it be???
Well in this case it ended up being the tire, but it can be caused by many other issues. It’s hard to say when I can’t physically pin point the issue
Over tightening a bolt will not torgue correctLY You will screech the bolt and then lose yield and get wrong torque spec !A million reason's why you got the death wobble
That's the kind of gremlin that makes a tech want to throw his toolbox in the trash. I chased this with a friend's bike for a week and found new front tire was out of round. Replaced tire, problem solved.
That’s what I’m hoping for. I’m putting the wheel on right now, but I don’t have hardware for his new calipers he wanted 🙄 I’ll know soon though if it solves it!
I have the same problem with my 06 road glide with a new American elite tire up front and risers any ideas
How does the rear tire look? Also swing arm bushings and engine mounts. A problem in the rear can translate to the front and cause a wobble
Could be out of line on mounts
Mounts
i know replace the frint tire. 😁
You've been scammed, it may have been pre-existing and now after an accessory is added the customer puts the blame on the mechanic.
let me guess Commander 3's
Pull your swing arm, rebuild it,,,
What were you thinking? First, why would you put "a lot of" Loctite on the bolts? A lot does no more than a little. Second, why in the world would you over-torque the bolt? That's insane! Your asking for those bolts to break while riding and I've seen that actually happen to someone on an HD because some idiot over-torgued the bolt. I'm serious. It's a miracle he wasn't killed. Also, you can't tell if a wheel is balanced just by looking at it. You should NOT. be working on bikes. Almost everything you say makes no sense.
I use extra loctite on rider bolts because it’s something I’ve seen vibrate loose over and over again. I went a few lbs over on the bolts. The aluminum threads would pull out of the risers before those bolts broke. And I got to the source of the issue. It was the wheel that wore funny. But thanks for the input, Bob. I’ll be workin on bikes for many years to come.
did u find the issue?
Yessir, I pinned it in the comments but it gets lost easy lol. The front tire was the culprit
Actually 10:55.
i really don’t like the risers why wouldn’t you just go with ape hangers maybe 6 “ would’ve done the same thing
That’s the cool thing about Harley’s, everyone gets to customize em their own way, even if they don’t like someone else’s
You get a mailing address at your new place share it with me and I'll send you the mechanics manual from Harley for the twin cam touring bikes..
Torque neck bearings to 35 foot pounds and you are good
Typical decell wobble. Long thread and finally a new front tire is the fix. Should have changed the front tire first and saved everyone a lot of grief.
Engine is probably out of alignment, making rear tire aware funny they make a bunch of fixes for that wrist stabilizer link that’s adjustable and there’s a frame company that sells front engine stabilizer also adjustable, and the tool that sets up on the rear shocks for the adjustment. I forget the name look them up on TH-cam.
I pinned the solution to the top of the comments. It was the front wheel
Maybe one is longer than the other maybe you should put a spacer under one and see if they're exactly the same length
I’m not exactly sure what you’re referring to. Is that in regards to the Risers or the Fork legs?
@@GilstrapGarage yeah I was actually talking about two poles on a riser the first riser I forgot to mention that but the other bars you put on live a lot better anyway
@@christophercummins4946 ahhh I see what you’re saying. I absolutely did check that though too. I assembled them a few different times off and on the bike in different orders to look for all that. It wasn’t until I put the solid top clamp back on that I could see the bend in One of them. My guess would be whoever owned them originally dropped the bike, and then sold the bars
@@GilstrapGarage simple fix fork bushes, took 6 years before I found myself
This only happens on deceleration - handlebars, transmission, engine balancers ... could not cause this condition.
Front wheel/tire balance/bearings and rear wheel tracking (engine mt adjustments) are a good place to start
Trendy stuff on a bagger hmmm
There’s a little bit of work in to getting some of that stuff to fit, but the aftermarket has really taken off with the “performance” thing and it’s gotten a lot easier.
Lol
People, just remember a tank slapper is up FRONT. A death wobble is coming from the Back. There are many causes associated with either of those horrible experiences. Either one CAN KILL YOU
All those rg will shake like that with the stock 16” wheel soon as Iv put a 21 on em instantly went away
Put a level on it
Don’t take your bike to some dude in his garage
Also shouldn’t take advice from people that leave their opinion on TH-cam comments