Ninja V+ Broken Standoffs This problem applies to a batch of Ninja V+ (not Ninja V) units manufactured in November and December 2021. A different type of glue - not to specification - was used to attach a metal screw nut. This glue was susceptible to becoming soft. We did not see the problem initially because it took a little time for the fault to become apparent. The problem was identified at the end of December 2021 and we managed to withdraw approximately 80% of the units from our sales channel. From January until today, we have had approximately 200 support tickets that have mentioned this problem, so it does not appear to have affected every unit. We have exchanged all of these units. Since the beginning of 2021 we have produced many more Ninjas, in different batches, and there has been no sign of the problem re-occurring. That said, our official position continues to be that we will swap out any Ninja V+ that exhibits this issue. We have manufactured over 250,000 Ninja units since its introduction four years ago, and we are committed to producing a high quality, high value product that delivers the best possible customer experience. It should be noted that we also offer people who register their product the opportunity to extend the warranty to 3 years from date of purchase, at no extra cost. If anyone thinks their Ninja V+ might have this issue, please go to this special web page (atomos.biz/NinjaVplus) to submit your serial number. This will inform you whether your Ninja V+ is at risk or not. If it is, you will be directed to raise a support ticket and we will respond as quickly as possible. Whilst we do our best to cover comments on social media, raising a support ticket means that we are better placed to log and track these issues. Thanks for your continued support and understanding. The Atomos Team
But it wasn't the threaded insert becoming unglued, it was the plastic mounting structure that broke away, this still points to a design flaw, not a manufacturing quality issue?
There may be two issues going on at once here. One part being weak attachments, another being weak glue. People seem to have attached quite some loads on this unit, something Atomos may not have foreseen. So while I can understand the plastic case from a cost perspective, perhaps thicker or even cone shaped attachment points could be an idea? The extra plastic shouldn't be all that expensive
Has nothing to do with glue used... it has to do with the design of the hold down posts, the manurfactoring process to secure the unit is garbage and needs to be improved. They're terrible by design, just own it and redesign the posts. Consoles have no issues with this, even car head units or hazard lights are screwed into reinforced plastic moulded posts
UPDATE: Atomos has informed me that they had a bad batch of Ninja V+s with this issue, but it has since been addressed. If anyone has units with this problem, please contact Atomos customer service for repair/replacement. They said not to try to glue it as it voids the warranty, but instead just fill out a ticket here: atomos.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
If you're out of warranty, then good luck to you all because they will not help you even if you're willing to buy replacement parts. They will not sell them to you! 😢
By bad batch do they mean that all of the ones they made are bad because my first ninja v had it break off too. Because these imagineers didn’t bother to secure the area where you put the battery on. The whole centre of the back plate isn’t even secured with screws.
For future reference: The 'broken bits' are called 'mounting bosses' (almost any protruding part can be called a 'boss' - it's where we get the term 'emboss'). The metal inner threaded female screwthreads inside the mounting bosses are called 'threaded inserts'. They're commonly heat-staked (hydraulically pressed in) just after the injection moulding stage when the plastic's still soft.
They have many other flaws they don't acknowledge or fix, like for example, when you install the H265 recording license onto a Ninja V, Ninja V+, or even in their shogun connect, it drains the internal clock little battery at an extremely fast rate, I've been taking mine apart every month or so just to replace that battery and have the device save the clock and other related settings, so annoying, and they keep ignoring it is an issue. You should test that too, maybe they will listen to you.
Thanks Gerald! I just checked mine, and sure enough, it's happening. I purchased mine in the first few weeks it was out. I've used it a lot. Just never pulled on the back. Looks like the only screw that is still holding is the one in the middle. I just opened a support ticket as per your link in the pinned comments. I appreciate it, man. Also, kudos to Atomos for owning up to this so fast. Hopefully they replace my unit and don't leave me waiting a bunch of time. Kinda need it. Which is a testament to how good it is.
@@geraldundone is there a link to the official statement providing the serial numbers of the "bad batch?" I'm not willing to chance it based on a "newer version" being floated as an official response. When did the newer versions come out? The link you gave takes us to a contact us page.
Hi Justin Uriah, Please accept our sincere apologies for the inconvience. Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers and since we are always here for our customers in case of any problems, you need not worry about your devices. Thank you once again. ATOMOS.
@@justinuriahphoto Hi Justin, there will be website available later today to check a NinjaV+ serialnumber affected or not. This link will be pinned on top of all the comments here. Please check out.
This is the kind of video which makes this channel the best of its kind, I mean, Who hasn't tried to superglue something back together that in all honesty 'shouldn't have been able to break that easily' in the first place but, you surprised yourself because you've actually made it stronger by doing so. Nice one Big Daddy G. More of the same please (as and when you break something that is).
Gerald I really hope you see this because I wish you would shine a light into this: There’s something going on with the Ninja V+ in general beyond this. I have had 4 of them, and so far, all have been broken in some way, shape, or form upon arrival. One wouldn’t record above 4K 30fps no matter the cable or camera (I have a Ninja V to compare it to), the replacement has a loose SSD connector and suffers from several burn in, the next replacement was DOA, and the fourth is still in transit. Ultimately, given what I have heard and now read in these comments, I believe there’s a more widespread issue here. Not only this, but the way Atomos handles metadata and LOG is incorrect. If using Clog3, which is full to full range, since Atomos doesn’t write the range in the metadata, many NLE with just assume one or other and typically in resolve, it goes to legalized. There’s also a color shift with their log footage that makes any Log to 709 luts not work correctly. Not only this, but the shift is not consistent. I have an R5, R5C, Ninja V, and Ninja V+. If I record internally on the R5C, it will not match the external recording on the same camera. The R5 with an external recorder will also not match the R5C internal nor external. This is with all the same settings, lens , controlled lighting. This is something I have seen nobody talk about, but I have documented and already tried speaking with them about it. Both Canon and Atomos just blame each other and nothing is done for months now.
Appreciate you highlighting this; was going to invest in their system, fully dissuaded now. Rather pay more for the BM va, yes it’s surplus to requirement but has a much better reputation
@Atomos As a technical product designer I can tell you right away how to fix that. Add clips wich clip the backpannel to the body. Add structual fins around the round plastic intakes for the screw mounts. They should connect along the whole side of the round extrusions to the underlying body.
Same thing happened to my Ninja V while mine was under warranty. I did not drop or placed any excessive force on mine. I claimed the warranty. Sent it back to Atomos and they don't acknowledge it as a fault and refused the claim. I fought them for 3 months and they replaced it.
I think the best solution would be epoxy made for plastic. The studs mounted perpendicular to a flat plane should be designed with a fillet. It’s a slope coming off the stud that flanges out forming a virtual triangle which is a structural element. When you epoxy a little puddle that runs down the side of the stud and up the stud if should become a much stronger support. By waiting and testing the epoxy as it starts to set up it will be like a gel dip the stud and place. Better to get atmos to fix, but if they blow you off…
Wow. I will be more careful attaching or removing the battery from my Ninja V. I've had it for a few years and have no issues yet. Thanks, Gerald - very useful post.
The battery plate that came with my Amaran 60D has the exact same problem. 2 of the standoffs have broken off just due to the weight of the np-f batteries. However, that is a low-budget light that is clearly not built to be super durable so you don't expect the highest quality materials and design choices, whereas in your case you should be able to expect more durability from the Ninja series
FYI, Loctite has a variety of adhesives that are designed to seal but can be broken if necessary e.g. when you secure a screw that might shake (or two plastic bodies). When you hear that click when first unscrewing something, that's Loctite or similar product. Also, love the detail shot, the music, the casual Gerald sharing vibe. See you in the next one.
Happened to me aswell. I have a Ninja V+ with SDI module and it broke while I was on a job. GG Atomos. No better way to instill confidence and look professional than having to ducttape your recorder in front of your client...
What I would do is reach out to Smallrig and have them either make supports for their existing cage or make a new cage that has detachable supports that fit standard or units with modules on it so you can swap them out. Would help make it stronger. Also I’d always use epoxy not super glue.
Don't have the time to watch the video now, but I'd like to say that the customer support from Atomos is amazing (as it seems to be in this case, see the pinned comment). My NinjaV broke at the light grey plate where the SSD is connected. Usually broken stuff is of course not covered by the warranty, but they said themselves, that this type of failure shouldn't happen, so they repaired it for free within about 3 days with their service partner here in Germany (including shipping both ways).
@@adepewgood question. I’m relatively sure it still had warranty, I don’t have the exact date of purchase at hand. However they said themselves, that „Since the broken-off part is in a rather unusual spot, I don't think this could have happened during everyday use. Normally, physical damages aren't covered by warranty, but in this case, we'll make an exception as this looks like it could have been caused by material failure.“. So I would say that they maybe would’ve covered it out of warranty as well, or at least for a reduced price or something like that.
Same issue with my Ninja V + . Thankfully, Atomos agreed to repair but I’ve needed to use it for a couple gigs and not yet been able to get it back. Sending back tomorrow! Thanks for sharing, Gerald!
Hello Coryndiego, Please accept our sincere apologies. Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers and we are delighted that you have contacted our customer service team. Thanks for your valuable comment and feedback. ATOMOS.
Thanks for this actually, its a good heads up of how to treat this monitors in the future, and prevent braking those screws. If one goes v mount... potentially mount the battery side and not the monitor side...
I found your video because I have a mint condition Ninja V which, bought 18 months ago is now powerless, despite using mains and full battery power to it. Having contacted Atomos through their ticket system, like many others they are silent (probably over run with broken devices) Anyway, thank you for your video, we might have to go in to self repair, but holding out for a less than likely help from Atomos. We, like you love these machines having invested in a few for our company, but I am less than impressed with their aftercare, particulary since most people would have purchased product specific updates which are tied to a broken machine.
Thanks for bringing this up, Gerald. I've seen several people on Twitter mentioning this problem with no response from Atomos. Hope they react to this.
Hello Tony lorentzen, Please accept our sincere apologies. Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers. Thank you for your valuable feedback! ATOMOS.
Hi Gerald, I always found superglue a bit 'hit and miss'. For strength then a small dab of 2-part epoxy (aka Araldite) generally works for me, but you need some kind of jig/support (gaffa tape, sellotape, third hand, crocodile clip etc) to hold for the first hour whilst it dries in position. It also helps to 'scuff up' the surrounding surfaces first with a craft knife or Dremel tool so epoxy can grip the underlaying smooth plastic sub base. Other options are plastic weld solution (same problem it needs support whilst it sets) or hot-melt glue (often used on electronic circuit boards) and quite strong provided you have abraded the surface pre application for it to grip into. If you can't abrade the base surface then small drill holes into which to form quasi hot-melt glue rivets can help anchor the glue to the base OK. Hope this helps. I often find that a DIY hack with hot-melt or epoxy works wonders in many a repair situation. A newer solution is ultra violet set glue (developed from dental industry). As with anything, a bit of prior practice on scrap material before doing the job for real can be beneficial.
I had the exact same issue with my Ninja V. I really liked the Atomos experience but after getting my Ninja V broken and seeing the internal structure and why it broke, I find it absolutely ridiculous to pay this amount of money. I'm no engineer but they should really come with another design or something easy to fix. Some friends told me that they got into the Blackmagic Design Assist exactly because of this and found that the experience is much better. I won't buy another atomos ninja V till they fix the design.
@@meetmikee I was using a standard NPF battery, my guess is, when you walk with your camera and the monitor with a battery, if there's a tilt on the monitor it will create a stress with the movement. So this can be resolved by using a cage on the atomos but it's more weight...and when it breaks a little bit, it's done, it will keep disconnecting the battery everytime 😅 my feelworld is doing a much better work atm 😅
I still use the now-discontinued, Odyssey 7Q+ and I've never had issues with stability or need for repair. Kind of wish Atomos would make something as solid.
I've had mine since launch and its been unflinching in some crazy conditions. I use it for gimbal work for Nat Geo/BBC etc for wildife work, so ain't being gentle! -35°c filming on ice floes, to 35°c plus in 100% humidity 😳.
I had this exact same issue. I did not even own the unit for a full month. A major design flaw on Atomos part. Was a hell getting it replaced too, but that was more due to the local shops unwillingnes to believe i didn't break it myself, than on Atomos part. Don't put heavy batteries on the back, because it will break on you... As an alternative you can power the unit through a dc adapter cable powered by a external battery mounted somewhere else than on the Ninja V+. It's become less portable that way, but better than a broken unit you won't use at all.
Thanks Gerald. Just ordered one for the camera we use to record the videos on our channel. I'll be on the look out for this and will be sure to shame them on my channel with a public video if mine fails!
I had the same issue with my Ninja V+. Purchased it when it first came out and then it sat for 8 months. Pulled it out for a job, used it for one day, and the back came off. I called both B&H and Atmos and they both said it was either " user error" and/or "out of warranty". Ended up throwing it away. This will be the last Atmos product I purchase.
Ahh, that's too bad. They definitely need a more robust case. My original Ninja V so far has been fine, but I don't mess with the battery area often. Mostly do AC power.
I can confirm both the Ninja V and the V+ have identical case issues. My V+ broke within the first months, My V is still ok but of course it sees less use than the V+
I own two Ninja V's and one of them has this exact issue. I superglued the frame backing back onto the main board. Not ideal but it works. I was very disappointed with the issue. However I will say, after similar wear and tear on the second newer monitor, the issue has not presented itself. Maybe I have been more careful but it's hard to tell if its user error or factory issue, or even design flaw.
Atomos told me after posting this video that newer versions don't have the issue. So that explains your situation. Check the pinned comment for more. 🤓👍
Consistently, my favourite videos of yours seem to be the less scripted/structured ones. I'll probably never own a Ninja, but I couldn't stop watching this.
Just @2 min mark, but as in understand best would be to use a dummy batt with cable and battery mount (sort of extension) so it doesnt hang on the case/"standoffs".
Thanks for doing this. I have a Ninja V and I haven't had a problem and I've owned my for quite a while; however, I will be much more careful with my unit.
I really like the format of this, it’s fun to just watch you discover things as you go. Curious: How was the edit time compared with a normal-ish Gerald video? It’s fun to have these drop from time to time, IMO.
"bad batch" does not address what is essentially a design flaw. Hopefully they will address in future versions. As you said this is a device that most everyone would like to own. Having plastic bits break off would be disappointing for the customer and the manufacturer
2 part epoxy would have probably been better for this. it definitely isn't as user-friendly though and would have been a bit harder to apply to the posts
UV resin would be perfect for this repair. It basically cures into a plastic, adheres to plastic, and can be built up to create a larger base for the attachment points.
Make the back part in a way that you can slide it into two slots at the top and bottom, now you have a lot of area that supports the force when you tilt the screen with the battery on the backside You can still put in some srews to secure the sliding, but they not longer have to take the tensile force at all
My Ninja V had issues with the HDMI input - Atomos told me they could fix it for $400, I said no thanks- I could buy another one for almost that amount $499.00 for a new on on Amazon- Bummer- they were not very helpful
It’s not just you. Crazy glue is one use maybe two if you’re second job is in the same day. Always seems to dry out after opening. They are not the only ones to cheap out on stand offs mounts. Entertaining video. Keep up the good work.
It seems to be a general production failure with the Ninjas! Thanks a lot to Gerald for making this public. I read Atomos reaction here and they say it only effetcs to special production lines of the V+. But that is'n true! My Ninja V (not +) falls apart, too! And I havn't used it for more than maybe around 30 hours! But it is out of warranty, so no support possible. I think Atomos should communicate this official and open minded to their community and should think about a product recall for all (in this way) damaged Ninjas.
Thank you so much for making this video, thats exactly what happened to mine , now that i think of it those post were probably already weak and with the weight it broke and the side popped open. When i tried closing it back im guessing the broken post didnt let it close evenly with the pins and bent the hell out of them and yeah basically bricked my ninja =| im really hoping to get it fixed i ended up buying a shinobi but my ninja V was really nice .
top down shooting is really a headache for me. It is either inflexible, or wiggling/trembling, or hard to get very level corrected angle. Hope you could share your thoughts!
My ninja v ultra just didn't start up. Charging the batteries to see if that makes a difference, but this was the video that triggered my interest. Fingers crossed it will boot up again, I only bought it second hand a couple of months ago. Used it maybe 6 times.
I wonder if the 2209 smallrig cage for the Ninja v / V+ helps keep this issue from occurring - i.e. it "holds" the two pieces together or not. (but I did see the update note..)
I have the same exact issue on my ninja V. Battery keeps disconnecting due to that design flaw. The least they could’ve done with the V+ is separate the battery connector from the backing plate and maybe have a wired connection. That way if it by chance happens again, you’re not risking the monitor shutting off as you’re shooting important content
Wow!! Mine fell apart last night then you post this video. How bizarre. That said, this is my third Atomos screen I have had a problem with. Only one has been problem free so far. I will still buy them though as they are good otherwise!!
I want to take a moment and say Happy Holidays and thank you for videos, shared knowledge and entertainment. I wish you and yours happiness and continued success. ~Jennifer Call
I just bought a Ninja 5. When I get the Sony A7R5 I will get the Ninja V+ even though it didn't yet officially list the camera for 8K recording. I assume it will work and that the non-listing is soon to be fixed,
Standoffs in that configuration have been the bane of my existence when performing maintenance on laptops for over a decade. Any budget laptop that relies on the nutsert plastic standoffs seemingly will always lose a few in the process of being taken apart if that laptop has been used for more than a few months.
I agree, these have always been the weak point. Brass inserts are not the ideal solution for this. Atomos should just put screws that go all the way through the housing instead of relying on these bits.
When I bought Ninja V+ half a year ago, all 3 of them has the same problem on arrival, and they are from 2 different camera gear retailers, I was told even if I get another replacement it will probably have the same issue -- saying it was a bad batch, then I've requested that whenever they resolve the issue I want to get a replacement from "good batch" , they refused me and only offered repair. The customer service from Atomos is exhausting too, every time I email back I get a new person replying my email -- then I am as if having to have a brand new conversation again.
I was worried if superglue catches fire from ninja's heat, but luckily it will fire up above 187 degrees celsius. Another factor would be a "spark" could catch a fire. Hope all goes well with your repair.
I totally have this issue with my NINJA V the oG recorder.. I thought it was bc of a third body battery I was using.. but now it makes a little more sense. .
Those inserts are always weak. It's always better to have a metal skeleton/base on which everything is screwed. I noticed that it's superior in strength on all the devices I disassembled.
Also to add to this i think i have never had this problem due to (not being used that much) but also i use with a battery eliminator powered via the zcam body lot less strain
Is there a possible alternative brand to look at moving forward? I am looking to add a screen/recorder to my rig but this is putting the breaks on it until something different comes along.
It would be nice if Atomos would be able to make more use of the display area, there is a lot of unused space in the border area. Hopefully, they would also be able to improve battery life as well. The fan should be replaced with something that runs quieter and the frame should be metal.
As an IT Technician at a school district I have to repair a lot of Chromebooks and a lot of them have the same plastic housing holding the brass screw pieces and they break off if you just look at it wrong lol those are the WORST things ever!!
If you have ever worked in an ER you would wear safety glasses anytime you work with superglue. Having to use a scalpel to reopen eyelids is stressful.
you know you pay around $1,000.00 for this unit you think they would make the case alot stronger and make it all metal.. i think they should offer to fix this if it happens to you and fix it with stronger mounts.. But if i may you should be sealing this with epoxy, this will be stronger then the plastic itself, super glue rots over time and it will eventually brake off..
Thank you Gerald! This is extremely crappy quality. My 7 year old daughter knows about thin plastic and how often it breaks on her toys. I would terminate the whole "design" and "engineering" team. Save a few cents, but thousands of dollars in PR/Marketing damage. What idiotic tools.
Inserts in plastic a post is a really, really common design and, unfortunately, breakable. Since the post surface is so small it may prove impossible to securely repair regardless of the type of glue. Plus ... toothpicks! Watch plastic scale modelers in action so you can, as I, feel dumb for not realizing a simple method to accurately apply super glue.
Yesterday I realised that my Ninja V+ also has the problem of broken rear supports. I saw how poorly engineered the retention system is by means of a threaded part inserted in a light little plastic tube that breaks even without stress. This is by no means a construction for professionals, it's worse than a toy. It went off while I was shooting an event. I have asked Atomos for support, let's see how they respond and if they will help me.
Hi Gerald Nice video I bought a new atomos ninja v, first time atomos puchase I noticed after 30 minutes that the sata connection on the Ninja v was very loose, i.e you could move the grey sata connection port on the Ninja v up and down and from side to side are they meant to be firm or be slightly flexiable to allow the SSD to slot in
I've replaced my monitor "ninjia V" two times but I'm still having icon transparency issues. When I view the black areas in full image, I see the icons transparent. Do you suffer from burn-in? Is it possible that all the panels I've tried have the same problem? A burn-in problem in such a panel is ridiculous. I've used much cheaper monitors and never seen any ghost icons or banding in the transparency. My monitor is still under warranty but i don't want to send it back for the fourth time to get the same one. does it happen to yours too? Thank you
I think enough is enough with all these plastic builds. Expensive equipment should be metal based. Also causes less harm to the environment producing less tiny useless plastic bits
Hi Gerald, Thank you, hope to buy a Ninja V soon, appears they (Atomos) have fixed the problem? Should I now buy a different recorder? ............... Gary ..................AU
Having just bought one for the first time, it’s really helpful to know what to do to avoid stressing it. Do you have any idea if the Smallrig, or any other cage for the Ninja V+ would help, or keep the halves together??
Ninja V+ Broken Standoffs
This problem applies to a batch of Ninja V+ (not Ninja V) units manufactured in November and December 2021. A different type of glue - not to specification - was used to attach a metal screw nut. This glue was susceptible to becoming soft. We did not see the problem initially because it took a little time for the fault to become apparent.
The problem was identified at the end of December 2021 and we managed to withdraw approximately 80% of the units from our sales channel. From January until today, we have had approximately 200 support tickets that have mentioned this problem, so it does not appear to have affected every unit. We have exchanged all of these units. Since the beginning of 2021 we have produced many more Ninjas, in different batches, and there has been no sign of the problem re-occurring.
That said, our official position continues to be that we will swap out any Ninja V+ that exhibits this issue. We have manufactured over 250,000 Ninja units since its introduction four years ago, and we are committed to producing a high quality, high value product that delivers the best possible customer experience.
It should be noted that we also offer people who register their product the opportunity to extend the warranty to 3 years from date of purchase, at no extra cost.
If anyone thinks their Ninja V+ might have this issue, please go to this special web page (atomos.biz/NinjaVplus) to submit your serial number. This will inform you whether your Ninja V+ is at risk or not. If it is, you will be directed to raise a support ticket and we will respond as quickly as possible.
Whilst we do our best to cover comments on social media, raising a support ticket means that we are better placed to log and track these issues.
Thanks for your continued support and understanding.
The Atomos Team
But it wasn't the threaded insert becoming unglued, it was the plastic mounting structure that broke away, this still points to a design flaw, not a manufacturing quality issue?
make the whole thing with aluminum
lies. my ninja v does the same thing
There may be two issues going on at once here. One part being weak attachments, another being weak glue. People seem to have attached quite some loads on this unit, something Atomos may not have foreseen. So while I can understand the plastic case from a cost perspective, perhaps thicker or even cone shaped attachment points could be an idea? The extra plastic shouldn't be all that expensive
Has nothing to do with glue used... it has to do with the design of the hold down posts, the manurfactoring process to secure the unit is garbage and needs to be improved. They're terrible by design, just own it and redesign the posts. Consoles have no issues with this, even car head units or hazard lights are screwed into reinforced plastic moulded posts
UPDATE: Atomos has informed me that they had a bad batch of Ninja V+s with this issue, but it has since been addressed. If anyone has units with this problem, please contact Atomos customer service for repair/replacement. They said not to try to glue it as it voids the warranty, but instead just fill out a ticket here: atomos.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
that was quick
If you're out of warranty, then good luck to you all because they will not help you even if you're willing to buy replacement parts. They will not sell them to you! 😢
Be good if they could share the batch serials that are impacted.
the "bad batch" was from launch date to roughly 30 minutes ago if my marketing degree tells me anything
By bad batch do they mean that all of the ones they made are bad because my first ninja v had it break off too. Because these imagineers didn’t bother to secure the area where you put the battery on. The whole centre of the back plate isn’t even secured with screws.
For future reference: The 'broken bits' are called 'mounting bosses' (almost any protruding part can be called a 'boss' - it's where we get the term 'emboss'). The metal inner threaded female screwthreads inside the mounting bosses are called 'threaded inserts'. They're commonly heat-staked (hydraulically pressed in) just after the injection moulding stage when the plastic's still soft.
your comment protrudes, boss
They have many other flaws they don't acknowledge or fix, like for example, when you install the H265 recording license onto a Ninja V, Ninja V+, or even in their shogun connect, it drains the internal clock little battery at an extremely fast rate, I've been taking mine apart every month or so just to replace that battery and have the device save the clock and other related settings, so annoying, and they keep ignoring it is an issue. You should test that too, maybe they will listen to you.
Thanks Gerald! I just checked mine, and sure enough, it's happening. I purchased mine in the first few weeks it was out. I've used it a lot. Just never pulled on the back. Looks like the only screw that is still holding is the one in the middle. I just opened a support ticket as per your link in the pinned comments. I appreciate it, man. Also, kudos to Atomos for owning up to this so fast. Hopefully they replace my unit and don't leave me waiting a bunch of time. Kinda need it. Which is a testament to how good it is.
I just bought a couple of these through B&H. Definitely sending them back today once I get the shipping label printed.
According to Atomos they have addressed this issue in newer versions of this recorder. So you're probably safe. Check the pinned comment.
@@geraldundone is there a link to the official statement providing the serial numbers of the "bad batch?" I'm not willing to chance it based on a "newer version" being floated as an official response. When did the newer versions come out? The link you gave takes us to a contact us page.
Hi Justin Uriah,
Please accept our sincere apologies for the inconvience.
Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers and since we are always here for our customers in case of any problems, you need not worry about your devices.
Thank you once again.
ATOMOS.
@@justinuriahphoto Hi Justin, there will be website available later today to check a NinjaV+ serialnumber affected or not. This link will be pinned on top of all the comments here. Please check out.
This is the kind of video which makes this channel the best of its kind, I mean, Who hasn't tried to superglue something back together that in all honesty 'shouldn't have been able to break that easily' in the first place but, you surprised yourself because you've actually made it stronger by doing so. Nice one Big Daddy G. More of the same please (as and when you break something that is).
Gerald I really hope you see this because I wish you would shine a light into this:
There’s something going on with the Ninja V+ in general beyond this. I have had 4 of them, and so far, all have been broken in some way, shape, or form upon arrival.
One wouldn’t record above 4K 30fps no matter the cable or camera (I have a Ninja V to compare it to), the replacement has a loose SSD connector and suffers from several burn in, the next replacement was DOA, and the fourth is still in transit.
Ultimately, given what I have heard and now read in these comments, I believe there’s a more widespread issue here.
Not only this, but the way Atomos handles metadata and LOG is incorrect. If using Clog3, which is full to full range, since Atomos doesn’t write the range in the metadata, many NLE with just assume one or other and typically in resolve, it goes to legalized.
There’s also a color shift with their log footage that makes any Log to 709 luts not work correctly. Not only this, but the shift is not consistent. I have an R5, R5C, Ninja V, and Ninja V+. If I record internally on the R5C, it will not match the external recording on the same camera. The R5 with an external recorder will also not match the R5C internal nor external. This is with all the same settings, lens , controlled lighting.
This is something I have seen nobody talk about, but I have documented and already tried speaking with them about it. Both Canon and Atomos just blame each other and nothing is done for months now.
Appreciate you highlighting this; was going to invest in their system, fully dissuaded now. Rather pay more for the BM va, yes it’s surplus to requirement but has a much better reputation
Thank you Gerald ….I don’t have an Atomos product but we all need voices like yours because nowadays there’s nobody criticizing anything.❤
@Atomos As a technical product designer I can tell you right away how to fix that. Add clips wich clip the backpannel to the body. Add structual fins around the round plastic intakes for the screw mounts. They should connect along the whole side of the round extrusions to the underlying body.
What degree do you have?
Product Designers have a Bachelor or Masters of Industrial Design. This injection-molding knowledge is also common to full-on Mechanical Engineers.
Same thing happened to my Ninja V while mine was under warranty. I did not drop or placed any excessive force on mine. I claimed the warranty. Sent it back to Atomos and they don't acknowledge it as a fault and refused the claim. I fought them for 3 months and they replaced it.
Atomos are good people - I’m sure they’ll watch this and make an adjustment - thanks for the warning!!
They already reached out since posting the video. And apparently it's already fixed in newer versions.
I've pinned a comment.
Uhhm no, allegedly they are a frat party company and has committed fraud
@@geraldundone good people!!
I actually disagree with this. They repeatedly don’t take responsibility for poor factory calibration and how the monitors handle LUTs for Sony Slog3.
They’re so good they market 8bit monitors as 10bit
I think the best solution would be epoxy made for plastic. The studs mounted perpendicular to a flat plane should be designed with a fillet. It’s a slope coming off the stud that flanges out forming a virtual triangle which is a structural element. When you epoxy a little puddle that runs down the side of the stud and up the stud if should become a much stronger support. By waiting and testing the epoxy as it starts to set up it will be like a gel dip the stud and place. Better to get atmos to fix, but if they blow you off…
Tip number 2, use 100% adhesive silicon to glue cover on, then you will be able to take it apart by using a razor blade to split it apart.
Good for you posting this video so everyone now knows about the issue. Plus not Atomos knows and has addressed the issue! Thank You
Wow. I will be more careful attaching or removing the battery from my Ninja V. I've had it for a few years and have no issues yet. Thanks, Gerald - very useful post.
The battery plate that came with my Amaran 60D has the exact same problem. 2 of the standoffs have broken off just due to the weight of the np-f batteries. However, that is a low-budget light that is clearly not built to be super durable so you don't expect the highest quality materials and design choices, whereas in your case you should be able to expect more durability from the Ninja series
FYI, Loctite has a variety of adhesives that are designed to seal but can be broken if necessary e.g. when you secure a screw that might shake (or two plastic bodies). When you hear that click when first unscrewing something, that's Loctite or similar product. Also, love the detail shot, the music, the casual Gerald sharing vibe. See you in the next one.
Happened to me aswell. I have a Ninja V+ with SDI module and it broke while I was on a job. GG Atomos. No better way to instill confidence and look professional than having to ducttape your recorder in front of your client...
What I would do is reach out to Smallrig and have them either make supports for their existing cage or make a new cage that has detachable supports that fit standard or units with modules on it so you can swap them out. Would help make it stronger. Also I’d always use epoxy not super glue.
Yeah they already have a cage for this. Perhaps they can add a bit more attachment or make their own dummy npf vmount thats screwed on the cage
@@dcloud Yeah they have one but it's more of a metal bumper while the Shogun cage I have actually has a back brace that actually increases durability.
Don't have the time to watch the video now, but I'd like to say that the customer support from Atomos is amazing (as it seems to be in this case, see the pinned comment).
My NinjaV broke at the light grey plate where the SSD is connected. Usually broken stuff is of course not covered by the warranty, but they said themselves, that this type of failure shouldn't happen, so they repaired it for free within about 3 days with their service partner here in Germany (including shipping both ways).
I'm curios, was it within the warranty period?
@@adepewgood question. I’m relatively sure it still had warranty, I don’t have the exact date of purchase at hand. However they said themselves, that „Since the broken-off part is in a rather unusual spot, I don't think this could have happened during everyday use. Normally, physical damages aren't covered by warranty, but in this case, we'll make an exception as this looks like it could have been caused by material failure.“.
So I would say that they maybe would’ve covered it out of warranty as well, or at least for a reduced price or something like that.
Same issue with my Ninja V + . Thankfully, Atomos agreed to repair but I’ve needed to use it for a couple gigs and not yet been able to get it back. Sending back tomorrow! Thanks for sharing, Gerald!
Hello Coryndiego,
Please accept our sincere apologies.
Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers and we are delighted that you have contacted our customer service team.
Thanks for your valuable comment and feedback.
ATOMOS.
Thanks for this actually, its a good heads up of how to treat this monitors in the future, and prevent braking those screws. If one goes v mount... potentially mount the battery side and not the monitor side...
I found your video because I have a mint condition Ninja V which, bought 18 months ago is now powerless, despite using mains and full battery power to it. Having contacted Atomos through their ticket system, like many others they are silent (probably over run with broken devices) Anyway, thank you for your video, we might have to go in to self repair, but holding out for a less than likely help from Atomos. We, like you love these machines having invested in a few for our company, but I am less than impressed with their aftercare, particulary since most people would have purchased product specific updates which are tied to a broken machine.
the level of patients this man has is astounding
Thanks for bringing this up, Gerald. I've seen several people on Twitter mentioning this problem with no response from Atomos. Hope they react to this.
Hello Tony lorentzen,
Please accept our sincere apologies.
Please note that we only have a relatively smaller number of issues like this, and we are committed to standing behind our product and providing the best solution to our customers.
Thank you for your valuable feedback!
ATOMOS.
Hi Gerald,
I always found superglue a bit 'hit and miss'. For strength then a small dab of 2-part epoxy (aka Araldite) generally works for me, but you need some kind of jig/support (gaffa tape, sellotape, third hand, crocodile clip etc) to hold for the first hour whilst it dries in position. It also helps to 'scuff up' the surrounding surfaces first with a craft knife or Dremel tool so epoxy can grip the underlaying smooth plastic sub base. Other options are plastic weld solution (same problem it needs support whilst it sets) or hot-melt glue (often used on electronic circuit boards) and quite strong provided you have abraded the surface pre application for it to grip into. If you can't abrade the base surface then small drill holes into which to form quasi hot-melt glue rivets can help anchor the glue to the base OK.
Hope this helps. I often find that a DIY hack with hot-melt or epoxy works wonders in many a repair situation. A newer solution is ultra violet set glue (developed from dental industry). As with anything, a bit of prior practice on scrap material before doing the job for real can be beneficial.
The brass things are called threaded inserts. Just an FYI.
I had the exact same issue with my Ninja V. I really liked the Atomos experience but after getting my Ninja V broken and seeing the internal structure and why it broke, I find it absolutely ridiculous to pay this amount of money. I'm no engineer but they should really come with another design or something easy to fix. Some friends told me that they got into the Blackmagic Design Assist exactly because of this and found that the experience is much better. I won't buy another atomos ninja V till they fix the design.
How did it break? We're you using a tall battery?
@@meetmikee I was using a standard NPF battery, my guess is, when you walk with your camera and the monitor with a battery, if there's a tilt on the monitor it will create a stress with the movement. So this can be resolved by using a cage on the atomos but it's more weight...and when it breaks a little bit, it's done, it will keep disconnecting the battery everytime 😅 my feelworld is doing a much better work atm 😅
I still use the now-discontinued, Odyssey 7Q+ and I've never had issues with stability or need for repair. Kind of wish Atomos would make something as solid.
I've had mine since launch and its been unflinching in some crazy conditions. I use it for gimbal work for Nat Geo/BBC etc for wildife work, so ain't being gentle! -35°c filming on ice floes, to 35°c plus in 100% humidity 😳.
I had this exact same issue. I did not even own the unit for a full month. A major design flaw on Atomos part. Was a hell getting it replaced too, but that was more due to the local shops unwillingnes to believe i didn't break it myself, than on Atomos part. Don't put heavy batteries on the back, because it will break on you... As an alternative you can power the unit through a dc adapter cable powered by a external battery mounted somewhere else than on the Ninja V+. It's become less portable that way, but better than a broken unit you won't use at all.
Thanks Gerald. Just ordered one for the camera we use to record the videos on our channel. I'll be on the look out for this and will be sure to shame them on my channel with a public video if mine fails!
I had the same issue with my Ninja V+. Purchased it when it first came out and then it sat for 8 months. Pulled it out for a job, used it for one day, and the back came off. I called both B&H and Atmos and they both said it was either " user error" and/or "out of warranty". Ended up throwing it away. This will be the last Atmos product I purchase.
Well you are not gerald.. they treated you "different"..
@@andersistbesser To be fair they never even knew about Gerald. he fixed his own monitor.
Yikes. I'll probably wait to upgrade to a Ninja V+ until they fix this. Thanks for sharing.
Apparently it's fixed in newer versions already. They just told me via email after posting this video. I've pinned a comment.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll be sticking to my lightweight dummy d-tap.
0:30 "but I do want to tell you about todays sponsor; Storyblock" is what I thought you where about to say 😁😁
Ahh, that's too bad. They definitely need a more robust case. My original Ninja V so far has been fine, but I don't mess with the battery area often. Mostly do AC power.
I can confirm both the Ninja V and the V+ have identical case issues. My V+ broke within the first months, My V is still ok but of course it sees less use than the V+
I own two Ninja V's and one of them has this exact issue. I superglued the frame backing back onto the main board. Not ideal but it works.
I was very disappointed with the issue. However I will say, after similar wear and tear on the second newer monitor, the issue has not presented itself.
Maybe I have been more careful but it's hard to tell if its user error or factory issue, or even design flaw.
Atomos told me after posting this video that newer versions don't have the issue. So that explains your situation. Check the pinned comment for more. 🤓👍
@@geraldundone Ooops I should not have glued it haha! Great video as usual thank you.
I’ll be extra careful with my Ninja from now on! Useful video, thanks.
Consistently, my favourite videos of yours seem to be the less scripted/structured ones.
I'll probably never own a Ninja, but I couldn't stop watching this.
Just @2 min mark, but as in understand best would be to use a dummy batt with cable and battery mount (sort of extension) so it doesnt hang on the case/"standoffs".
Agreed. That's what I normally do when I'm not making some odd contraption. :)
Thanks for doing this. I have a Ninja V and I haven't had a problem and I've owned my for quite a while; however, I will be much more careful with my unit.
I was looking for this! I use a bigger battery and got worried after watching this video :/
I really like the format of this, it’s fun to just watch you discover things as you go.
Curious: How was the edit time compared with a normal-ish Gerald video? It’s fun to have these drop from time to time, IMO.
Just bought one so I guess I better be gentle with it. Thanks for the heads up.
"bad batch" does not address what is essentially a design flaw. Hopefully they will address in future versions. As you said this is a device that most everyone would like to own. Having plastic bits break off would be disappointing for the customer and the manufacturer
2 part epoxy would have probably been better for this. it definitely isn't as user-friendly though and would have been a bit harder to apply to the posts
@@thereeljahjah I agree. Two-part epoxy will be better than super glue.
I think assuming this is ABS plastic on both sides, the Revell plastic glue that's acetone based is the optimal choice.
Thanks for the information Gerald. I for one will handle my Ninja V with a little more care going forward. 😊
UV resin would be perfect for this repair. It basically cures into a plastic, adheres to plastic, and can be built up to create a larger base for the attachment points.
Make the back part in a way that you can slide it into two slots at the top and bottom, now you have a lot of area that supports the force when you tilt the screen with the battery on the backside
You can still put in some srews to secure the sliding, but they not longer have to take the tensile force at all
My Ninja V had issues with the HDMI input - Atomos told me they could fix it for $400, I said no thanks- I could buy another one for almost that amount $499.00 for a new on on Amazon- Bummer- they were not very helpful
Nice! It was cool to see the inside of the NV+
It’s not just you. Crazy glue is one use maybe two if you’re second job is in the same day. Always seems to dry out after opening. They are not the only ones to cheap out on stand offs mounts. Entertaining video. Keep up the good work.
It seems to be a general production failure with the Ninjas! Thanks a lot to Gerald for making this public. I read Atomos reaction here and they say it only effetcs to special production lines of the V+. But that is'n true! My Ninja V (not +) falls apart, too! And I havn't used it for more than maybe around 30 hours! But it is out of warranty, so no support possible. I think Atomos should communicate this official and open minded to their community and should think about a product recall for all (in this way) damaged Ninjas.
I would recommend the B7000 glue/sealant for the plastic cover to the case
thanks for this video though, i didnt know Atomos Ninja had a bad build
Thank you so much for making this video, thats exactly what happened to mine , now that i think of it those post were probably already weak and with the weight it broke and the side popped open. When i tried closing it back im guessing the broken post didnt let it close evenly with the pins and bent the hell out of them and yeah basically bricked my ninja =| im really hoping to get it fixed i ended up buying a shinobi but my ninja V was really nice .
top down shooting is really a headache for me. It is either inflexible, or wiggling/trembling, or hard to get very level corrected angle. Hope you could share your thoughts!
"I'm Gerald Undone. You killed my father. Prepare to die."
My ninja v ultra just didn't start up. Charging the batteries to see if that makes a difference, but this was the video that triggered my interest.
Fingers crossed it will boot up again, I only bought it second hand a couple of months ago. Used it maybe 6 times.
I wonder if the 2209 smallrig cage for the Ninja v / V+ helps keep this issue from occurring - i.e. it "holds" the two pieces together or not. (but I did see the update note..)
I own it and no it doesn't help. Once those standoffs break nothing will help you
I have the same exact issue on my ninja V. Battery keeps disconnecting due to that design flaw. The least they could’ve done with the V+ is separate the battery connector from the backing plate and maybe have a wired connection. That way if it by chance happens again, you’re not risking the monitor shutting off as you’re shooting important content
Wow!! Mine fell apart last night then you post this video. How bizarre. That said, this is my third Atomos screen I have had a problem with. Only one has been problem free so far. I will still buy them though as they are good otherwise!!
I want to take a moment and say Happy Holidays and thank you for videos, shared knowledge and entertainment. I wish you and yours happiness and continued success. ~Jennifer Call
I just bought a Ninja 5. When I get the Sony A7R5 I will get the Ninja V+ even though it didn't yet officially list the camera for 8K recording. I assume it will work and that the non-listing is soon to be fixed,
Standoffs in that configuration have been the bane of my existence when performing maintenance on laptops for over a decade. Any budget laptop that relies on the nutsert plastic standoffs seemingly will always lose a few in the process of being taken apart if that laptop has been used for more than a few months.
I agree, these have always been the weak point. Brass inserts are not the ideal solution for this. Atomos should just put screws that go all the way through the housing instead of relying on these bits.
When I bought Ninja V+ half a year ago, all 3 of them has the same problem on arrival, and they are from 2 different camera gear retailers, I was told even if I get another replacement it will probably have the same issue -- saying it was a bad batch, then I've requested that whenever they resolve the issue I want to get a replacement from "good batch" , they refused me and only offered repair. The customer service from Atomos is exhausting too, every time I email back I get a new person replying my email -- then I am as if having to have a brand new conversation again.
I was worried if superglue catches fire from ninja's heat, but luckily it will fire up above 187 degrees celsius. Another factor would be a "spark" could catch a fire. Hope all goes well with your repair.
Gerald Performs Surgery 😅
I totally have this issue with my NINJA V the oG recorder.. I thought it was bc of a third body battery I was using.. but now it makes a little more sense. .
I hope you're having a good day, too, Gerald!
Those inserts are always weak. It's always better to have a metal skeleton/base on which everything is screwed. I noticed that it's superior in strength on all the devices I disassembled.
Also to add to this i think i have never had this problem due to (not being used that much) but also i use with a battery eliminator powered via the zcam body lot less strain
have the normal V
Is there a possible alternative brand to look at moving forward? I am looking to add a screen/recorder to my rig but this is putting the breaks on it until something different comes along.
Incredible! Super helpful for us consumers and, apparently, for Atomos as well!
It would be nice if Atomos would be able to make more use of the display area, there is a lot of unused space in the border area. Hopefully, they would also be able to improve battery life as well. The fan should be replaced with something that runs quieter and the frame should be metal.
As an IT Technician at a school district I have to repair a lot of Chromebooks and a lot of them have the same plastic housing holding the brass screw pieces and they break off if you just look at it wrong lol those are the WORST things ever!!
Thanks for documenting this!
Will an Atomos connect hold that bioch togather if outa warranty!?
It does help, yeah. That was my next plan if this failed.
If you have ever worked in an ER you would wear safety glasses anytime you work with superglue. Having to use a scalpel to reopen eyelids is stressful.
I’ve had my Ninja V in a smallrig cage since day one. I use smallrig NATO clamps to the cage with a big battery. Knock on wood 🪵 no issues.
you know you pay around $1,000.00 for this unit you think they would make the case alot stronger and make it all metal..
i think they should offer to fix this if it happens to you and fix it with stronger mounts..
But if i may you should be sealing this with epoxy, this will be stronger then the plastic itself, super glue rots over time and it will eventually brake off..
5:28 I might have to steal "a goober" as a term of measurement
Thank you Gerald! This is extremely crappy quality. My 7 year old daughter knows about thin plastic and how often it breaks on her toys. I would terminate the whole "design" and "engineering" team. Save a few cents, but thousands of dollars in PR/Marketing damage. What idiotic tools.
Inserts in plastic a post is a really, really common design and, unfortunately, breakable. Since the post surface is so small it may prove impossible to securely repair regardless of the type of glue.
Plus ... toothpicks! Watch plastic scale modelers in action so you can, as I, feel dumb for not realizing a simple method to accurately apply super glue.
Yesterday I realised that my Ninja V+ also has the problem of broken rear supports. I saw how poorly engineered the retention system is by means of a threaded part inserted in a light little plastic tube that breaks even without stress. This is by no means a construction for professionals, it's worse than a toy. It went off while I was shooting an event. I have asked Atomos for support, let's see how they respond and if they will help me.
Hi Gerald
Nice video I bought a new atomos ninja v, first time atomos puchase I noticed after 30 minutes that the sata connection on the Ninja v was very loose, i.e you could move the grey sata connection port on the Ninja v up and down and from side to side are they meant to be firm or be slightly flexiable to allow the SSD to slot in
That grey sleeve pouch looks nice. Where can I get it?
Thank you for taking this apart !
I've replaced my monitor "ninjia V" two times but I'm still having icon transparency issues.
When I view the black areas in full image, I see the icons transparent.
Do you suffer from burn-in?
Is it possible that all the panels I've tried have the same problem?
A burn-in problem in such a panel is ridiculous.
I've used much cheaper monitors and never seen any ghost icons or banding in the transparency.
My monitor is still under warranty but i don't want to send it back for the fourth time to get the same one.
does it happen to yours too?
Thank you
always good to see you in a video lol hope you have a good weekend
Pro super glue tip, it lasts drastically longer if you store it in the fridge in a sealed bag with some silica gel.
😬😬 Love the break down of how to fix it. Love the video 😁😁
You need some hemostats and black nitrile gloves for this work. Not those thick gloves! lol. Useful to know this is an issue though.
I see that sneaky marketing Gerald 😏 Love the video, definitely something I wanna keep an eye on especially I just recently purchased a Ninja V + 🧐
Have this issue with my Ninja V. Power cutouts fairly regularly. Atomos couldn't replicate my issue when sent in for repair. So annoying.
I think enough is enough with all these plastic builds. Expensive equipment should be metal based. Also causes less harm to the environment producing less tiny useless plastic bits
Refreshing to see you super glue skills are like mine. I would have glued the Ninja V+ to my fingers before I was done
Hi Gerald,
Thank you, hope to buy a Ninja V soon, appears they (Atomos) have fixed the problem? Should I now buy a different recorder?
............... Gary
..................AU
Having just bought one for the first time, it’s really helpful to know what to do to avoid stressing it. Do you have any idea if the Smallrig, or any other cage for the Ninja V+ would help, or keep the halves together??
Nope the cages do not help. The design has been like this since Ninja 5. just yank your back panel on the battery side and it would come off.