2013 5.0 did this in about an hour at a campground last weekend. Used a milk crate to stand on, a small adjustable to take the battery off, a nut driver to remove the air intake tube, and a 1/2" drive socket and a few metric socets to remove the belt, tensioner, and alternator bolts. You can easily work around the radiator hose. Once the alternator bolts are out, spray them with WD-40 and let them sit a minute. The top bolt flange moved away from the hole but the alternator would just pivot on the lower flange. I took a large wrench and tapped straight down on the lower flange a few times until the entire alternator came loose. The truck is 11 years old and had the original alternator. Once I disconnected the wires, I dropped the old alternator out of the bottom. It was easier than trying to lift it out of the engine. I put the new one up in there from the bottom too. Then bolted everything back together from the top. Again, I did it in the middle of the woods with just a few common hand tools in about an hour. Very easy.
I'm really hoping this advice helps, tried getting it out and it's pivoting on that bottom hole. I'm looking at that hose thinking this is really going to suck 🤦. Thank you for the comment, exactly what I was trying to find out.
In this video, please note they have removed the radiator hose that is directly in front of the top bolt. I am sure that someone below has mentioned that the alternator DOES NOT just fall out after the mounting bolts are removed. I used a breaker bar and tapped (beat the hell out of) on the housings flat surface with a hammer. And because I did not remove the radiator hose and drain the system, the alternator has to be removed underneath the rad hose and the new alternator had to go in the same way. Also I recommend a set of ratcheting wrenches for the top bolt because you will have a difficult time getting a socket on the top bolt. Just for reference, it took me 1 hour of pulling, prying, and rocking the alternator back and forth. When I used the breaker bar to tap on the housing, it took about 5 minutes.
When you say housing are you talking about the alternator itself because I've tapped the top bolt location and it's loose but the other side is still not moving. Any advice please?
I'm currently sitting with my alternator free but stuck with the hose in place amd was hoping to see a good path to remove it without removing the hose.
You absolutely right ! Thankyou ! I could not get that alternator loose. I did as you said with a breaker bar and a heavy rubber mallet . It took me just 2 more minutes I would have just continued struggling .................thank you .
In this video, the did not show the coolant hoses being removed. At the beginning they are there but when after the belts are removed, they are suddenly missing. It is those hoses that are the problem to access the alternator easily since the main hose runs right in front of it.
First time replacement for an alternator for me, and I've never done mechanical work on vehicles before. Besides breaking bolts loose, this was easier than I thought. Thanks so much.
You forgot to mention removing the radiator hose from the oil cooler. The hose is right in front of the upper alternator bolt.. (note) this means draining the coolant is also necessary.
Thanks Tony and Keith. I saw the same with the hoses. It also doesn't address that there are 2 different belts - one that uses the tension pulley and one they call a stretch to fit belt for the alternator for my 2011 F150 - 5.0lt, then there is a zip tie involved, it's in the ford manual from what I hear...
When removing the alternator on a 2014 F150 5.0 loosen the lower long alternator bolt about 1/2 inch then tap it back in..then remove it..the nut that it screws into is what is preventing the alternator from coming off..check it out when you have the alternator out..when unplugging the electrical connector reach around back to the flat part and depress the tab and pull the connector at the same time, it's tight quarters but can be done..work the alternator by the rad hose it will come!
An easy solution to get the alternator out is to use WD-40 or PB Blaster. Spray it around the area where the two bolt holes line up. Then rock the alternator left and right. If possible work a pry bar at the bottom of the alternator while rocking it left to right. Installation I put the top bolt on a threaded it about half way and then worked a pry bar on the bottom to line up those holes. Remember lubrication is your friend in this scenario.
I did this in 35 mins an didn't have to remove anything but the belt Jesus bunch of wrench holders now my question is is it supposed to charge at 12 v or 13.8 ?
The reason for not mentioning all these different radiator hoses and etc is because you don't need to do all that! Remove the air hoses, air box upper half (down to just the filter) and that's it.
So I’m thinking the setup on our various trucks is just different. I removed the air intake, took the alternator out and put the new one in. It took roughly 25 mins. And that’s because I forgot my beer and had to run and get it.
This video needs to be redone to show what is really involved. The alternator will not come out unless the coolant is drained and the hoses are removed.
He forgot to mention all the other hoses to disconnect before you can even see the alternator. And it looks to be pretty important hoses too not just the intake
Supplies Needed for This Job:
1. Safety Glasses: urlzs.com/hbwc
2. Gloves: bit.ly/2GvfwAm
3. Alternator: bit.ly/2IvlBgG
4. Ratchet and Socket: bit.ly/2IEAOOi
5. Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2UToD1D
2013 5.0 did this in about an hour at a campground last weekend. Used a milk crate to stand on, a small adjustable to take the battery off, a nut driver to remove the air intake tube, and a 1/2" drive socket and a few metric socets to remove the belt, tensioner, and alternator bolts. You can easily work around the radiator hose. Once the alternator bolts are out, spray them with WD-40 and let them sit a minute. The top bolt flange moved away from the hole but the alternator would just pivot on the lower flange. I took a large wrench and tapped straight down on the lower flange a few times until the entire alternator came loose. The truck is 11 years old and had the original alternator. Once I disconnected the wires, I dropped the old alternator out of the bottom. It was easier than trying to lift it out of the engine. I put the new one up in there from the bottom too. Then bolted everything back together from the top. Again, I did it in the middle of the woods with just a few common hand tools in about an hour. Very easy.
I'm really hoping this advice helps, tried getting it out and it's pivoting on that bottom hole. I'm looking at that hose thinking this is really going to suck 🤦. Thank you for the comment, exactly what I was trying to find out.
In this video, please note they have removed the radiator hose that is directly in front of the top bolt. I am sure that someone below has mentioned that the alternator DOES NOT just fall out after the mounting bolts are removed. I used a breaker bar and tapped (beat the hell out of) on the housings flat surface with a hammer. And because I did not remove the radiator hose and drain the system, the alternator has to be removed underneath the rad hose and the new alternator had to go in the same way. Also I recommend a set of ratcheting wrenches for the top bolt because you will have a difficult time getting a socket on the top bolt. Just for reference, it took me 1 hour of pulling, prying, and rocking the alternator back and forth. When I used the breaker bar to tap on the housing, it took about 5 minutes.
When you say housing are you talking about the alternator itself because I've tapped the top bolt location and it's loose but the other side is still not moving. Any advice please?
Yea they left a lot of steps out , at least for 2012
I'm currently sitting with my alternator free but stuck with the hose in place amd was hoping to see a good path to remove it without removing the hose.
Yeah, it doesn’t just slide out. Ugh… had to beat it out also
You absolutely right ! Thankyou ! I could not get that alternator loose. I did as you said with a breaker bar and a heavy rubber mallet . It took me just 2 more minutes I would have just continued struggling .................thank you .
I love it how everything comes out and in so smoothly, LMFAO!
Yeah...wonder how long it took to get the bolts realigned
In this video, the did not show the coolant hoses being removed. At the beginning they are there but when after the belts are removed, they are suddenly missing. It is those hoses that are the problem to access the alternator easily since the main hose runs right in front of it.
Do you have to remove the hose? Im trying to replace the alternator on my f150?
@@user-ou6ul6wu8k you don’t have to remove it but it makes the job easier.
@@tommybragalone7943 yea I manage to do it but it so annoying trying to put it in shits tight af.
I had to remove the hoses. It's so tight, I don't think I would have got it out without removing them.
it was a useless video, he does not show the important stuff
First time replacement for an alternator for me, and I've never done mechanical work on vehicles before. Besides breaking bolts loose, this was easier than I thought. Thanks so much.
You forgot to mention removing the radiator hose from the oil cooler. The hose is right in front of the upper alternator bolt.. (note) this means draining the coolant is also necessary.
Title says 2006-2014, video says 2009-2014. Does anyone know which one is correct?
Thanks Tony and Keith. I saw the same with the hoses. It also doesn't address that there are 2 different belts - one that uses the tension pulley and one they call a stretch to fit belt for the alternator for my 2011 F150 - 5.0lt, then there is a zip tie involved, it's in the ford manual from what I hear...
How did he pull it out and put it back in place so easily. It took me 2 hours to take the alternator off. Now im struggling to put it back in.
where and what brand is actually really good for an 2009 f150 4.6 v8. I've been looking but I can't make up my mind.
Thanks Chris!!!
When removing the alternator on a 2014 F150 5.0 loosen the lower long alternator bolt about 1/2 inch then tap it back in..then remove it..the nut that it screws into is what is preventing the alternator from coming off..check it out when you have the alternator out..when unplugging the electrical connector reach around back to the flat part and depress the tab and pull the connector at the same time, it's tight quarters but can be done..work the alternator by the rad hose it will come!
An easy solution to get the alternator out is to use WD-40 or PB Blaster. Spray it around the area where the two bolt holes line up. Then rock the alternator left and right. If possible work a pry bar at the bottom of the alternator while rocking it left to right. Installation I put the top bolt on a threaded it about half way and then worked a pry bar on the bottom to line up those holes. Remember lubrication is your friend in this scenario.
Amazing video and quality!
But the instructions suck
I did this in 35 mins an didn't have to remove anything but the belt Jesus bunch of wrench holders now my question is is it supposed to charge at 12 v or 13.8 ?
Alternators should read 12-14V with the vehicle running.
The reason for not mentioning all these different radiator hoses and etc is because you don't need to do all that! Remove the air hoses, air box upper half (down to just the filter) and that's it.
You don’t show half the disassembly to access the alternator…. More then the intake has to come off. It’s tight under that hood
So I’m thinking the setup on our various trucks is just different. I removed the air intake, took the alternator out and put the new one in. It took roughly 25 mins. And that’s because I forgot my beer and had to run and get it.
You forgot a step , removing the house to the thermostat in order to pullout alternator
Lol, I watched this video and literally nothing but the clips and removing the air box hose was applicable. 2010. 4.6
This is for the 5.0 brother.
Yeah just skip over how the radiator hose is now removed..no coolant anywhere and easy access...
What is the size of the alternator? How many amp
200
This video needs to be redone to show what is really involved. The alternator will not come out unless the coolant is drained and the hoses are removed.
I didn’t remove a single hose by doing it all from under the truck in 30 minutes
@@thatdude008 Only in a 2WD, majority are 4X4 that makes underneath impossible
.
@@flyin427ford I have a 4WD…
It will egress between the hoses (below the large hose).
@@thatdude008 You should probably do a video to recap how you did it, that would be really helpful.
you have to remove upper hose and by pass hose then bleed the system more like a 2 hr job ! Dumb video !
Nope. It comes out....between the hoses. They bend.
Misleading title , this only for 09-14 . Dislike.
This is NOT for a 2006 5.4
Chris you are my waifu
He forgot to mention all the other hoses to disconnect before you can even see the alternator. And it looks to be pretty important hoses too not just the intake
No. It will egress between the hoses, below the large/upper hose.