Filament Drying Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video, I talk about why you should start drying your filament and how to do it. You can use any number of off-the-shelf dehydrators with great results. Here's a chart of the temperatures and times you should use to dry various filaments:
PLA - 45C (113F) at least 4 hours
ABS - 60C (140F) at least 2 hours
PETG - 65C (149F) at least 2 hours
Nylon - 70C (158F) at least 12 hours
Dessicant - 65C (149F) at least 3 hours
My newest recommendation for a filament dryer is the Sunlu S2 (2023) - amzn.to/48scFD7
Food Dehydrator (new model) - amzn.to/479FZg9
PrintDry Filament Drying System - www.matterhackers.com/s/store...
Follow me on Facebook: / robertcowandiy - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great video. Thanks for the info. I especially like that you have included a quick table for drying information in the description.
Been holding off on this purchase for much longer than I've needed to. Thanks for the link. Just pulled the trigger on this and a thermometer. Thank you, sir!
Great video and advice. Going to be ordering this dehydrator next week. Thanks for sharing.
I love your videos :). You have taught me a lot about printing the more exotic filaments. I even got my own Ratpor2 because you have one :). Keep up the great work!
Thx for the tips - I see these food dehydrators at goodwill all the time, I'll definitely be trying it out.
That's where I got mine yesterday got it for 10 bucks
My mom bought 2 to make beef jerky last time she came to visit 🤣
Super informative video - thanks so much. Ordered dehydrator using your link :)
Great video, yeah this is the problem I’m having right now and I definitely hear popping out of the nozzle and can’t stop the stringing.
Knowing that the dehydrator I'm going to by will work with filament is more than worth subscribing. Look forward to more vids
Thanks!
Wow, the PrintDry is literally the same thing with taller trays.
Thanks for the hint :)
Yeah, it's the same model, with a few minor tweaks. I'm almost positive the parts would be interchangeable.
Print your own tray
I invested in a PrintDry Pro system that just came out and really love it. I am using Cereal Containers which have nice big rubber gaskets to store my filaments in. I wish I could find a decent, resealable vacuum bag system/setup to seal up dried spools
Polyalchemy came out with their resealable bag and pump. Just ordered one today. Has good reviews and Makers Muse put up a review on it.
www.polyalchemy.com/collections/airlock-filament-vacuum-sealing-system/products/nanovac-vacuum-pump-airlock-bag-bundle
Hi I just saw this video it helped me out. I have the Jayos filament dryers and they are ok not great but i put the filament in the dryer from the factory tape up the holes and come back to it a 3 hours later. It still makes the popping nose i am making something now as we speak and it was popping on the first layer and also leaving gaps i raised the temp up to 215 and when was at the second layer and i still hear it but not as much but thank you for this video. I do have one question when its done drying and you print with it do you leave it in the dehydrator or take it out and put it next to your printer because like you said when you print with it it will absorb the moisture thanks.
Lets the take the time to appreciate him taking the time to add that stop motion though!
Nice video. Thanks.
Westinghouse no longer appears to be available - picked up VonShef Dehyrdator. It fits two 1kg rolls comfortably and only cut 3 trays leaving two full trays still. Plus room to put dessicant packs on the side.
Wow this makes me so happy... so you think it will still be able to print a week after this is done? if so , thats amazing... i have so many pla still on spools everywhere..glad i did not toss them... thanks for all this info... if you showed how bad this stuff was before and after you will be the first one that proved drying pla actually restores bad pla... thanks again
I generally question the idea that we should dehydrate filament at different temperatures. Yes, if you dry PLA at high temperatures it is detrimental to PLA. But isn't any temperature above a certain point capable of raising the vapor pressure of *water*? so the only downside to dehydrating PC or Nylon at a low temperature should be that the dehydration time will be as long as if it was PLA.... this is very hypothetical thinking on my part so please tell me if I am mistaken, I want to learn!
Thanks for this! I've been having lots of wet filament problems, it's 97% humidity today for example
Drying filament properly can make even really cheap filament perform quite well! Good luck.
Are you in the shower? 😆
@@jonrod8731 nope, just Washington
Love the video. It really helps me understand the drying process as I’m also in Colorado. I’m having issues with my PLA filament Breaking halfway through a print. any suggestions on this would be really helpful.
Huh, that's odd. I haven't seen that before, maybe a bad batch of filament? Have you tried a different spool from another vendor?
@@RobertCowanDIY no i haven't tried a different vender. I get my filament form Microcenter in aurora, do you know different place in town that has pla and abs locally or would online be a better place?
@@bishipc117 I would try a different vendor first. I don't know of many locally, especially down south. I know Lulzbot up north carries filament. Your best bet would just be to get something from amazon, try their basics brand, I hear good things about it and you'll have it in a couple days.
I know this is replying to a 3 yr old comment but just in case it helps, PLA breaking is a symptom of moisture absorption. I am also on the Front Range in Colorado and was pretty surprised to find I had moisture problem in my filament. I put a spool in the oven at lowest temp for several hours and no more brittleness. I don't recommend the oven method as it was a bit on the hot side but it got me through a rush project in good shape.
@@RobertCowanDIY Brittleness in PLA is a moisture symptom. Thanks for the video! You may want to fix your affiliate link for the dryer.
I think you could make it so that you stack all your rings and stand your 2 spools up on end, maybe make them hang on a dowell from one of the middle spacers and put your 2 holes out from the top
i was planning a print that is gonna take 3 days. so i was gonna be using a dryer that i have, but i cant seem to find how i should set if after the 4 hours of drying when getting ready to print. should i remove the heat setting while its in its box and dessicants, or just leave it heat running for PLA setting? what do you recommend?
Thank you for the video. Exactly what I need with one exception, how to tell the wife that her food dehydrator need replacing. :-)
Any reason you can't simply stack multiple spools on top of one another and convert all trays to spacer rings?
Two considerations: 1) You will get better/faster drying if the warmed air can freely circulate completely around the spool. If spools are stacked, there's less circulation between the spools. That's particularly true if the spool sides are flat/solid plastic. 2) If you want to be able to print using filament still in the dryer, you need some sort of bearing or other method to allow the spool to rotate. See the commercial "PrintDry Filament Drying System" link for an example of how to make this possible.
Great video! I am a college student and the main problem is me drying filament then I have nowhere to store it because I can't have a dehydrator or oven in my room. So I dry it at our maker space whitch takes like 6 hours to dry then I use it once and even when I store it in a sealed plastic bag with all the desiccant packets I own it still gets water in less than a week.
Have you tried mylar bags? They are allegedly better because they have a metal layer between the 2 plastic layers to catch any moisture. I purchased these, and am still awaiting them in the mail.
rigid.ink/products/rigid-ink-mylar-resealable-metallic-bags-fits-1kg-spool-and-samples
Your plastic bag might be permeable to water or something, basically osmosis
what is the max temperature it can reach? i mean real temperature not written. can i dry nylon with it?
can any one suggest other dehydrators since both items he linked to are no longer available
If I will dry a filament then keep it in a vacuum sealed bag. And take it out later. Then, do I need to dry it again or directly start printing?
im kind of new into 3d printing but im in charge of the 3D printer at my office. is it correct that: I can store my filaments by just letting them sit in a drawer without a plastic bag or anything and once i want to use a filament i can put it in a dehydrator overnight and use it the next morning as good an new? Can I repeat this process over and over again? Because we have a lot of different filaments this way i only have to buy a dehydrator. Im using various Filaments (PLA, ABS, TPU, Nylon, PA-GF)
Thanks!
You should 3D print some spacer rings and maybe some other upgrades to the dehydrator!
Gasp! But... but... the feedback loop would start a phase cascade in the hydrolytic interstices, leading to gravitational instability, implosion and death!
Also, the chicken came before egg. I have that in writing.
if you know the weight of a reel, I wonder if you could work out water absorbtion from the weight , not sure how accurate the length/weight of the shipping is. Are they significantly lighter after cooking them?
Yes, in the automotive plastics industry we just take a few grams and weigh them. Then we dry them out and measure the difference and calculate the percent moisture.
You will never get all of the moisture out and you don’t need to but you need to get it down to a certain level for various materials. Nylon is the worst and you have to get it the driest because it will most readily react to the water. It isn’t just sputtering. It is burning the material and degrading the properties.
Would be useful to know the percentage humidity achieved in the dehydrator at your operating temperatures.
How much time for dry Flex filament?
What about tpu?
Heads up: the affiliate linked item is unavailable, as is the PrintDry system at MatterHackers.
Robert, you mention NylonX. May I ask what printer works with it? Does nylon compatibility give you a good indication?
This video should help you out and explain all you need to know about nylonx or nylon-based filaments: th-cam.com/video/IG-2CAYJaas/w-d-xo.html
A few words of warning: I have an almost identical dehydrator and did all the same mods. I live in a humid environment and print PLA, TPU and PET-G. Even at the lowest setting it has a tendency to make the filament stick to itself. Therefore, I prefer to dessicate silica gel packets and pack them in with filament in sealed bags. If you don't experience this problem, carry on as shown in this video, if you do, buy extra silica bags.
I feel like your dehydrator is running too hot. I've never had an issue with that, and it only happens when it's too hot, making the filament melt a tiny bit.
Have you checked it with a thermometer to see what the temperature was?
Question, I live in Florida. After using the dehydrator on the filament, should I also do the printing in a dehydrated environment? When you remove the filament from the dehydrator, how quickly does it consume moisture while on the printer?
It depends on the filament. With nylons or PETG, ideally you'd print directly FROM the dehydrator, as it will reabsorb moisture at a rate faster than you can print.
@@RobertCowanDIY thanks .
Have you ever seen artifacts from a direct drive pull and having to pull filament? If I print out of my dehydrator I’m worried that it will be too much effort for the filament to tug?
Nope, I haven't seen this.
Can you please provide an idea about its temperature accuracy?
It's relatively poor, but not powerful enough to get too hot.
I make my own silica packets dirt cheap using silica based cat litter from Walmart (Looks like crystals, non scented). Put a few spoonfuls in a coffee filter with a rubberband and you got a beefy desiccation packet.
So what do you do right after you have dried the filament? The spool and the filament are still warm, so do you store it in a bag right there and then?
I USE the filament right after. I only really bother with drying it when I'm going to use it for something. I don't just go through and dry all my filament and store it for later. I could, but that's not my process.
I live in west Texas I am going try by placing the PLA in my truck we are expecting 107 degrees F next week. I have several spools of PLA that I have several years some of it brittle I am wondering is it too dry? Does PLA have shelf life? I have had weed eater trimmer line that became brittle and I rehydrated it by placing in in water for a few hours and that worked. 😁🛫
what about carbon fiber nylon from sainsmart? they recommend 80c for at least 24 hours, but this one only goes up to 70c. has anybody else tried this with cf nylon to where the recommened drying temperature is higher?
Is the plastic wheel holding the filament can contaminate the dehydrator to the point being unsafe to use food after in it?
I wouldn't use it for food if you're using it for plasitc. They're cheap enough, just get one dedicated just for plastic.
What temp should tpu be at?
If you live on the front range does pla need drying I live in Buena Vista CO 8000 ft and my humidity inside now is 10% now the humidity is 45% outside do I need to dry my PLA plus no one has eve said what is optimal humidity for PLA and best prints, WHY?
0% is optimal. Seriously. If there is any moisture in the air, PLA and other hydrophilic materials will want to absorb that moisture, and ANY moisture in the air is bad. I'm in Colorado as well (Erie) and I didn't think there was a problem until I started drying my filament.
Has anyone tried printing custom rings for the dehydrator and perhaps printing a turntable to let the filament dispense a bit smoother?
I did the rings with PETG and it works like a charm.
if you have an enclosed printer you can easily dehydrate inside the printer. Just heat up the bed, put filament inside, and put a cardboard box on top so the heat doesn't escape. works for me and i's cheap, saves space.
True, but many filaments need to be dried WHILE printing. Nylon only takes a few hours until it's absorbed enough moisture to be an issue again. If you have a long print, you'll need to dry as you print.
How about making the filament pass through a tube filled with desiccant? Will that work?
Yeah, I thought about this, but it would need to be in the tube for at least a couple hours, so it's not really practical. When you dry the filament, it needs to really dry for about 12 hours, so the time it would spend in the tube wouldn't be enough. It's best to dehydrate, keep try, and even print FROM a sealed container or dehydrator. But that's best practice, not necessarily required.
What about the center of the role? I dried my filament for 16 hours at 156F and the first half of the print was great. It then got bad. How can I get the center of the filament dry? I may just have to print out of my dryer.
Hum, it must have been wound pretty tight. I haven't really had that issue. If dehydrating it won't fix the middle, then the middle probably didn't have a chance to absorb moisture. But printing FROM the dehydrator is probably the way to go. I need to modify mine to do that. For longer prints, it's just gaining moisture the longer it sits out.
I smoke cigars , could I keep a boveda pack inside the plastic bag in comes in instead of the desiccant pack?
Sure, but that will only prevent further moisture from entering filament. Any filament that NEEDS to be dried needs to have the moisture actively removed with heat.
Any experience with drying time/temp for polycarbonate?
I haven't, but you can check out this chart for times and temps: lh3.googleusercontent.com/byHNkSeL0sB9Kvx75AqmURXa4ntt4w1p3D4KIMLgyEYIxeN0s81cE7HLWAYw9UdgHOGNaadSoi6JwMC97N4-5o0
Were you able to achieve 70°C with that dehydrator? By the way, the PrintDry version, after several hours, would top out at ~60°C.
I think 60-65C is about the max I get. I'm not overly happy with it, I'm looking for alternatives.
By now if you happen to have a roll that you dehydrated a lot of times did you notice degradation on the material?
Nope! I've had some really old rolls (maybe a year or more) and after dehydrating them nearly a dozen times, it still prints just fine, as long as I dehydrate right before printing. My standard process is to dehydrate overnight and then print, it's been very consistent.
@@RobertCowanDIY That's what I'm looking for. Thank you for your input!
@@RobertCowanDIY For how long on average, maybe depending on the amount left?
fyi i tried a sharp set of side cutters and first cut exploded the edge of the ring. i suggest a hot knife or blade end soldering iron. the plastic is verry brittle
Yeah, it is pretty brittle. I had luck with my flush cutters, but I could see it breaking.
Question about this RE Nylon - Can it actually hold 70º? I've seen reviews where these units can barely break 50º and it's ineffective for Nylon and ABS.
I'm not really sure, I am going to test this. Check my other comment. I do have a Sunlu and it DOES get up to 70C, amzn.to/40G3IT4
@@RobertCowanDIY Thank you for testing. With lower temperature filaments like PLA, it's not an issue because one has room to go above the device's temperature but when we reach the higher temperature bounds of the device, not hitting it can mean wast of money. I would like to see the results - I hear people modding the Sunlu with a fan to optimize the exhaust of moisture.
weigh the spool before you use in dryer, then reweigh when done and the temp of the spool has acclimatized. any difference should indicate the weight of the water lost
iv been attempting to use one with my NylonX filament with no success, the same model but I have not ran it more then over night ill try and run it for longer 24+ hours this next time. mine seem to vibrate a lot so I made some feet for this model you can print out of TPU that seems to help with that issue. it is available on Thingiverse
That's odd that it vibrates. You might have a bad unit, it shouldn't vibrate at all. Mine makes a tiny bit of noise from a fan, but that's it.
Robert Cowan it was making to table it was on vibrate it wasn't too bad
Have you tried dehydrating TPU? What's the recommended temp for that?
YES! TPU absolutely needs to be dried before printing. Temperature is 55C for at least 4-6 hours.
@@RobertCowanDIY thanks! I'll need to make some adjustments as I was dehydrating it at 45C (same as PLA)
so if you have 1/4 of a spool of PLA that snaps like deied pasta is it worth doing this??? still 4 hours at 113' ??? how much electric does a basic unit use...anyone know??? if it cost $3 in electric to fix $2 worth of filament,is it worth doing??? i would not think so... thanks for sharing.
A fair question, but at max current of 250W, it will take 4 hours to use a kilowatt, most filaments will dry in that duration.
If i dehydrate my Pla in a Cold Room will it affect anything?
Should be fine, as long as the dehydrator is getting up to the required temperature.
You got that thermometer from... where now?
I'm not even sure, I've had it forever! Try Amazon, there are many types you can get.
What about tpu
Just checking to see if you received the brittle PLA samples i sent you... if so and you dried them can you let me know if it worked... just had a roll sent to me and its horrible...After 2 days and using 1/2 a roll it just has snapped on me 3 fails in a roll after an hour or less...drives me nuts.. thanks
Yep. I just got them and they're in the dryer right now. I'll ty printing with them later today.
@@RobertCowanDIY awesome! ...thanks for update... also do a flex test to see if they bend and dont snap anymore...maybe do that a day after you take out of machine... since heat makes its bend without breaking always... thanks again for helping me with this...
@@roadstar499 FYI, I made a whole video about this and it will be coming out in a week or two. End result? Both printed JUST fine. I printed a calibration cube and a benchy (printed with both filament) and no issues at all. I also tested the flexibility afterwards and it bends like normal filament.
Any tips on how to dehydrate carbon fiber filament with an oven? :o
I currently don't have space for another appliance (dehydrator)
@@helloimtokki Oven with a turbo fan only is able to dry it within allowable temps of the nature of your product. Most ovens nowadays have turbo fans.
Other are drying ther Desiccant with 110°c in the oven for 2 hours.
Good video, but would have appreciated some guidance around temperatures, etc..
There's a link in the description to a temperature table for each filament type.
@@RobertCowanDIY no there is not:(
@@slicedpage There is? Go to the PrintDry link, or just look at the little list I put together. Here's the chart on the page: lh3.googleusercontent.com/byHNkSeL0sB9Kvx75AqmURXa4ntt4w1p3D4KIMLgyEYIxeN0s81cE7HLWAYw9UdgHOGNaadSoi6JwMC97N4-5o0
I have the same dryer, but i made a paper tube for it, and now it may hold up to three coils of plastic )
Oh nice!
Colorado Gang
I had like 1kg of abs laying around for a year. The first meters of the plastic was good but when I got through around 1/4 of it the moisture was apparent. The prints literally crumbles to pieces while printing
The PrintDry thing is no longer available, and amazon shows the Westinghouse as being no longer available as well. (Even Walmart shows it as not available). Amazon has a Rosewill version of the Westinghouse - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
🔥💕👍
The link doesn’t work. Update it so you can get some referrals!
Try it again, it works for me and I am getting referrals.
You don't have to cut out the trays, you can simply put the spool on the dehydrator, and cover it with a bucket.
Ha, I guess that works too.
Just got my dehydrator and that the very first thing I did
You mean flip a bucket and cover it ?
This is a generic dehydrator and every brand labels their own brand on it. I bought the same dehydrator just as Sunix on your link ina different country however I wasn't able to hit more than 48.2 Celsius and 10% humidity with my higrometer readings while the thermostat was set to 70C for a considerable amount of time. Did you do readings and get 70C or even 60ish C readings? As the trays are reduced there is a gain of a max 5 degrees which is very minute.
Eh, they're cheap and don't reach the actual temps. BUT, I have had great success with filament by using this method. I've never had issues printing nylon-based filament after dehydrating overnight with one of these.
@@RobertCowanDIY and what temps readings at max were you able to achieve with your machine so I would call the day.
@@erhanertem196 I honestly don't remember. I have the thermometer probe in there at one point, as you see in the video, but I don't remember what the actual reading was. I know that at full temp. it's enough to REALLY soften PLA (too hot for it if you run it at its hottest).
The accurate term is hygroscopic.
temps?
Check the description.
Like the video, but you never said that the proper humidity for filament should be.
Proper humidity? I'm not sure I follow. For ANY filament, you want to print it with as close to zero moisture as possible, period. Any moisture in ANY filament while printing is not ideal.
Nice video 🖖.
I don't like this power hungry dehydrators, they take about 400watts per hour and that's too much for what they're doing.
That would be in 5h about 2Kwh(2000watrs) that not cheap to run, specially if you have to dry more stuff.
That's about 22 cents where we are! 😀
it sure would have been nice if you actually took some brittle PLa and took it out after 14 hours and showed it was good...i have hundreds of feet of bad brittle pla that is impossible to print with...it snaps with a minute into the prints..i live in sw florida very humid...
I tried soaking filament in water for a week, but it didn't soak in as much water as I hoped.
@@RobertCowanDIY yes, it just would be nice to actually find a video of filament as bad as the rolls i have being made good again...seeing is believing ....hundreds of you tubers 3d vids but i never saw one...thanks
@@roadstar499 It is a fact that drying filament will make it print better. I just got a PrintDry system to replace the aging dehydrator and it's made all my prints come out better. I don't have any really old filament to test, but it makes a huge difference. Just get a cheap dehydrator and put in some terrible filament and run it for 24 hours. It will print better.
@@RobertCowanDIY my is totally unprintable...where i live it gets very humid...it snaps as soon as i start print...it can't be straighten unless i warm it with a lighter...i agree drying helps...but fixing bad pla is what i am not really believing...
@@roadstar499 Send me the spool, I'll dry it and show you it can print.
why could you not set one spool on top of another spool without a tray in between, the spools would be touching each other, but not the filament.
You could certainly do that, but probably drying will be better/faster if there's a gap for air circulation between the 2 spools. Doesn't need to be a full tray, could just us a small ring to provide that separation.
You may need to find a new amazon link. That one is $154 lol
Now it's out of stock
I know this video isn’t new but for the current price, you’re better off getting the SUNLU dryer box for $50
I've heard from many people that it won't get warm enough to sufficiently dry nylon.
@@RobertCowanDIY I’ve never printed nylon but I now have the sunlu dry box and can confirm it’s max temp is 55 Celsius
Hydrophil means "water soluble". He ment hygroscopic
Noted, I've seen both used before. Looks like hygroscopic is more appropriate though.
I remember when it was 40 something, greedy bastards selling it for 150 now.
Yes, I was surprised by the ridiculously high price now. I had already found this item which seems to be the same basic hardware that is used in the "PrintDry Filament Drying System" that Robert also linked. Here's the Amazon link to the Food Dehydrator that could easily be adapted as Robert describes: www.amazon.com/dp/B081YS2M6Y/?coliid=I1ZS5C8QBO9XVB&colid=2O2NS639BULLT&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
hygroscopic
Hydrophilic − Refers to substances that absorb water. A hydrophilic substance will bond, on a molecular level with water. ... A hygroscopic substance will actively attract and absorb water, without bonding
That thing is over $50 now.
Well as of 16-MAY-2020 it's going for $150! I had already found another item which seems to be the same basic hardware that is used in the "PrintDry Filament Drying System" that Robert also linked. Here's the Amazon link to the Food Dehydrator that could easily be adapted as Robert describes: www.amazon.com/dp/B081YS2M6Y/?coliid=I1ZS5C8QBO9XVB&colid=2O2NS639BULLT&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I'm sorry I disagree with needing to have different temps for different filaments... Water will always evaporate at the exact same temp no matter what filament you are using. The time however would be a factor as it takes different times for the tempurature to reach the center of the filament at different rates, but the temp makes absolutely no difference!
Disagree all you want, but I accidentally dried PLA at the higher temp, and it deformed the material a bit. You can certainly just use the lower temp for everything, but nylon can handle a higher temp, and higher temps are more effective at removing moisture.
@@RobertCowanDIY standard non-adjustable dehydrators have a set temp at between 55C-70C... Well below the glass temp of PLA. Of course if you have an adjustable and set it too high the PLA will warp, that's a no brainer, however, as I stated, it matters not the temp and a non-adjustable dehydrator will work fine. The only difference would be the time involved in dehydrating the type of filament you are using. Best way to check is after keeping it in the dehydrator run it thru your machine. If you hear the tell-tale popping, put it back in the dehydrator for an hour. It's not rocket science... Just common sense.
@@satyrsmodels8029the glass temp of PLA is 60⁰C ...
@@ipmate9334 That just means it gets soft, not liquid. The glass transition temperature of PLA (polylactic acid) is around 60°C (140°F). This means that PLA will start to soften and become pliable at this temperature. However, it will not melt until it reaches a higher temperature, around 180°C (356°F). Which is why a food dehydrator is perfect, it never gets above 125°F... enough to make water evaporate, but not enough to damage plastics!
Different materials have different melting points 😂
Sir, I am an Indian .. How can I make out an ant weight combat bot with arduino , that means a bot that controlled by mobile in a cheap price.?? Can you help me I mean , can you send me a code for that ?? The only problem I have that I don't know that how can I control the weapon of Battlebot ,. Waiting for your reply
Hygroscopic.
Yeah, that word.
@@RobertCowanDIY heard it once when I was taking classes and they were talking about break fluid and never heard it again lol
@@Vladle2099ha, yeah.
Beard ≠ cool