Thank's for your video Can you think an failure EKPS can make a long crank when the engine is cold and a low fuel pressure ? But all is ok when you start up after drive it à little bit
you could cross switch components. meaning you take for example a module of which you know it fits and is working as it should, and swap it into the problem car. problem gone it's the module. not gone, might be sth else. other than that it's not worth running any kind of diagnosis on this since it's know to fail, so people just toss a module at it. 90% of times that's probably the end of it.
Thankyou for this video. My BMW is a 2009 328i Xdrive. Same problem. Died on highway. Crank but no start. CC ID 309 error on dash. Fuel Pump. Towed to a garage who I learned isnt very experienced and long story short - I dont trust their diagnosis that its the Fuel Pump. Car restarted fine - ran an hour - upon attempting to move the car amps FROM the module TO the pump went to over 18. (idle amps were 8-9) Car shut off. Several days later I was able to pick up the car and drove it around the lot before towing home. I have an aftermarket pump and i CAN install it but its AFTERMARKET so if it dies again I wont know if its the cheap pump or if it was the module all along. SO Im replacing the module. BUT HOW DO I KNOW IF THIS WAS SUCCESSFUL? I DONT WANT TO GET STRANDED AGAIN. IS THERE ANY TEST I CAN PERFORM OR IS DRIVING AND PRAYING MY ONLY OPTION. I drive my son to school and i dont want to risk safety. Also - any experience with aftermarket pumps? are they all a bad idea?
oftentimes, swap parts and see what happens is the most feasible path. in my case, I swapped the module with a used one which did improve the issue but didn't get rid of it entirely. swapped the pump for an aftermarket pump which improved it further but still not completely. only when I changed the module AND pump with brand new OEM parts it finally fixed the issue. I was also told that a faulty module can damage the pump. So I'd say swap it both to have the most peace of mind. getting stranded with this issue can be dangerous. happened to me on the freeway and elsewhere.
Im a little late to the party but by any chance do you remember when you got your FPKM from?, im in the US and searching on ebay and getting very broad ones like 2011-2016 and a bunch of different models but never the exact year and model, any help would be appreciated.
got a used one from eBay. but only ones that show the VIN so I can check and make sure it matches my requirements. and then I got another brand new one from the dealer lol
@@JA3Conceited192863 i replaced the fuel pump module located behind the rear seat of my 328i had the service center do it. I would not recommend driving a bmw, i sold it and now drive a tesla with no headaches
if it's same model, engine and year, it should work right away since it has the right coding on there. if it's brand new you'll have to code it. ISTA will do. But somehow it didn't work with my version so I had to get it coded elsewhere. Not sure if you can re-code a module that has been coded already. if anyone knows, pls chime in.
It hasn't stalled on me while driving ever since. But once in a while when I drive it for like 20 minutes, then park it for like 5-10min to grab something, then it shuts off right after starting. sometimes. close it and let it reboot and all is good. weird quirk
@@BONDGarage This circuit related to fuel supply is very sensitive unfortunately. My personal opinion is to buy original FPKM from dealer and all should be ok. If I remember it correct the last version of FPKM no need programming. Anyways that how I fixed many vehicles. Aftermarket electric parts always pain in the but in terms of BMW performance and german perfectionism. I know we always trying to save money but BMW is not very good partner for that.
@BOND Garage i noticed u didn't code it to the car. They use the same module for various applications. Although it may work but not optimized to the car till coded
if it's from a donor with the same engine in the same iteration, then yes. not sure if a facelift version will work on a pre-facelift but if you stay within the same year range it should work. but there's no guarantee that the module works properly. tried a used one (same engine, same year), improved the issue but the old module damaged the pump and then the pump damaged the new used module. had to replace it all over again..
Yup n as long as in hot weather u have it next to the metal rear panel metal with metal on exhaust side overheats some take out the little lid drill holes in it on cover put it back with some piece of rubber in between or roof tape n a built in fan brown is grown n red with yellow strip positive to make it start n turn of with ignition but car is crap n20 n26 timing guide is plastic not billet unless u have CNC 3d printer or casting custom one they only sell plastic n be your moulding but not impressed for higher insurance cost n engineer 240 hp n 70000 miles redo which cost to do 5000 to $10000 unless u do it garbage inline 6 best engine 2 is can out put n the old Mitsubishi eclipse turbo will dog it camed n manifold n 20g turbo 333 to the wheels at only 17 lbs of boost with closed water jackets in solid heads not even a race
I've seen some places that sell a different housing with fan included and was considering making that thermo upgrade but then I got sidetracked and just see how long it'll last. and yea the N20 is kinda crab 😂
if you get a used one from the same model you don't. if it's a new one you do have to code. a used one from another engine should work also with coding (if you can code it over. never tried that)
My friend just wanna let you know this fixed my problem. Thank you for your video.
You know what sir? When it comes to bmw’s for some unknown reasons i trust your accent :D
lol it's like, the german built it, they better know how to fix it as well^^
Racism 😅😅😅
Very helpful video
Thank's for your video
Can you think an failure EKPS can make a long crank when the engine is cold and a low fuel pressure ?
But all is ok when you start up after drive it à little bit
it can manifest all kinds of fuel related issues. can't say I've heard it all but sounds plausible.
How would you know if it’s the module or the fuel pump itself?
you could cross switch components. meaning you take for example a module of which you know it fits and is working as it should, and swap it into the problem car. problem gone it's the module. not gone, might be sth else. other than that it's not worth running any kind of diagnosis on this since it's know to fail, so people just toss a module at it. 90% of times that's probably the end of it.
Thankyou for this video. My BMW is a 2009 328i Xdrive. Same problem. Died on highway. Crank but no start. CC ID 309 error on dash. Fuel Pump.
Towed to a garage who I learned isnt very experienced and long story short - I dont trust their diagnosis that its the Fuel Pump. Car restarted fine - ran an hour - upon attempting to move the car amps FROM the module TO the pump went to over 18. (idle amps were 8-9) Car shut off. Several days later I was able to pick up the car and drove it around the lot before towing home.
I have an aftermarket pump and i CAN install it but its AFTERMARKET so if it dies again I wont know if its the cheap pump or if it was the module all along. SO Im replacing the module. BUT HOW DO I KNOW IF THIS WAS SUCCESSFUL? I DONT WANT TO GET STRANDED AGAIN. IS THERE ANY TEST I CAN PERFORM OR IS DRIVING AND PRAYING MY ONLY OPTION. I drive my son to school and i dont want to risk safety.
Also - any experience with aftermarket pumps? are they all a bad idea?
oftentimes, swap parts and see what happens is the most feasible path. in my case, I swapped the module with a used one which did improve the issue but didn't get rid of it entirely. swapped the pump for an aftermarket pump which improved it further but still not completely. only when I changed the module AND pump with brand new OEM parts it finally fixed the issue. I was also told that a faulty module can damage the pump. So I'd say swap it both to have the most peace of mind. getting stranded with this issue can be dangerous. happened to me on the freeway and elsewhere.
@@BONDGarage thats great advice. I know i wont feel comfortable with the afternarket pump i have sitting on my table. Thanks
So i have a 08 535xi i got home after going thru emmisions test. Now it just cranks no start. I sprayed a little starting fluid in it started.
sounds like a fueling issue. you had any warnings on the dash or codes?
Yea you gotta change it when your car starts to turn off and on is in back of the trunk
Im a little late to the party but by any chance do you remember when you got your FPKM from?, im in the US and searching on ebay and getting very broad ones like 2011-2016 and a bunch of different models but never the exact year and model, any help would be appreciated.
got a used one from eBay. but only ones that show the VIN so I can check and make sure it matches my requirements. and then I got another brand new one from the dealer lol
Which number on the module has to match? All of them?
good question. I didn't look much for the number but for the donor car it came from. because the coding on it is what matters.
If I buy the oe part do I still have to get it coded??
yes
Happened to me!! So dangerous! Got mine fixed years ago.
What did you do to get it fixed im having the same problem
@@JA3Conceited192863 i replaced the fuel pump module located behind the rear seat of my 328i had the service center do it. I would not recommend driving a bmw, i sold it and now drive a tesla with no headaches
Do I have to code or program the module if it’s off another car
And what software
if it's same model, engine and year, it should work right away since it has the right coding on there. if it's brand new you'll have to code it. ISTA will do. But somehow it didn't work with my version so I had to get it coded elsewhere. Not sure if you can re-code a module that has been coded already. if anyone knows, pls chime in.
DID you fix it? , what was the culprit? GL
It hasn't stalled on me while driving ever since. But once in a while when I drive it for like 20 minutes, then park it for like 5-10min to grab something, then it shuts off right after starting. sometimes. close it and let it reboot and all is good. weird quirk
@@BONDGarage This circuit related to fuel supply is very sensitive unfortunately. My personal opinion is to buy original FPKM from dealer and all should be ok.
If I remember it correct the last version of FPKM no need programming. Anyways that how I fixed many vehicles. Aftermarket electric parts always pain in the but in terms of BMW performance and german perfectionism. I know we always trying to save money but BMW is not very good partner for that.
@BOND Garage i noticed u didn't code it to the car. They use the same module for various applications. Although it may work but not optimized to the car till coded
@@xj1085 how do u code
I bought a used module for couple year difference but from 535i like I have , should it be plug and play?
if it's from a donor with the same engine in the same iteration, then yes. not sure if a facelift version will work on a pre-facelift but if you stay within the same year range it should work. but there's no guarantee that the module works properly. tried a used one (same engine, same year), improved the issue but the old module damaged the pump and then the pump damaged the new used module. had to replace it all over again..
It worked, plug and play , no issues so far , no more fuel supply error code!
I had already replaced the pump before the module thank goodness
@@deltakilo32 what year is your car and what year module did you put in?
Hi, how hot should be normal temperature for this type of module? My new module measures 162F is it normal? Thanks.
could we see your codes ?
Big problem for this module
What was the codes you had
There is no code it just says fuel problem and cuts off, even if your in the middle of the street
yea just like @corychaplin9625 said. there's just the *blim* and then you got a couple seconds until it shuts off
Its should be same serial number or install any 12v of the same model car
I found that the same model and year should suffice but ended up having to change it for a newer version
If you get a brand new one will not program itself ?
Where to buy ?
got mine from eBay
How do you program it?
with ista P. apparently there's also other software but I didn't try that yet
Yup n as long as in hot weather u have it next to the metal rear panel metal with metal on exhaust side overheats some take out the little lid drill holes in it on cover put it back with some piece of rubber in between or roof tape n a built in fan brown is grown n red with yellow strip positive to make it start n turn of with ignition but car is crap n20 n26 timing guide is plastic not billet unless u have CNC 3d printer or casting custom one they only sell plastic n be your moulding but not impressed for higher insurance cost n engineer 240 hp n 70000 miles redo which cost to do 5000 to $10000 unless u do it garbage inline 6 best engine 2 is can out put n the old Mitsubishi eclipse turbo will dog it camed n manifold n 20g turbo 333 to the wheels at only 17 lbs of boost with closed water jackets in solid heads not even a race
I've seen some places that sell a different housing with fan included and was considering making that thermo upgrade but then I got sidetracked and just see how long it'll last. and yea the N20 is kinda crab 😂
You don't have to code it
Really? Even if I buy a new one?
if you get a used one from the same model you don't. if it's a new one you do have to code. a used one from another engine should work also with coding (if you can code it over. never tried that)
Ya cambie el módulo como lo codifico ayuda porfavor