You just made a lot of people's lives a little more simpler with one 3+ minute video. That kick-stand switch especially is a pain in the neck. "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
Just bought a new 2019 DR. Will be doing another round australia trip in 2020. Of course doing all the necessary changes to get it up to spec. Then I came across your video, waaay better than the others as it covers all the proper procedures to make it fail safe. Have already made the changes. Thanks heaps!
I have to say it again, best video ever for this mod. Quick, understandable, and best of all it works!!! I’ve referenced this video for doing this mod five times now!
Dude, you had the most comprehensive video. Chucking the diode was really special. You simplified up the whole bike and got rid of all the, 'Safety Features' that just plain suck because they are repair issues waiting to happen. Very Cool my friend. We don't need this stupid crap and someday it will not be installed on bikes,....... someday,... thanks again.
Video saved my trip. I had bypassed everything shown here several years ago except the relay mod. Bike suddenly would not crank. Removed and jumped the relay and started right up. Do all these mods or you will eventually have issues.
Detailed and concise. Great video. After gumming up my switch last night I decided to do this mod. Glad I saw your video as I was just going to close the switch off. Took 15 minutes after watching your vid.
Excellent, no nonsense vid. Would appreciate knowing what that diode is protecting reverse flow of current from before removing/jumping. Hard to find info on what it’s purpose for being there is…(was) in your case.
Bridging the diode connection ensures the neutral sending unit still lights the neutral light on the dash when in neutral. There's write ups on drriders.com, thousands, and I read through years ago when I made this video. I can't remember the specific situation that riders faced when this diode failed, but that there is potential for the nsu signal to not illuminate the neutral light when bypassing the sidestand kill switch which is why I included it in the video.
Thanks VERY much for this incredibly helpful video. I've done the kickstand and tossed the relay on my 2013, and I hope to work on the diode and clutch soon.
Just for good measure I also made a backup jumper wire and backup jumper clip and stuck them in my tool kit. I used adhesive waterproof Marine heat shrink on the jumper wire / male ends too.
Not so much anymore. I no longer have my 1993. I gifted it to a friend along with everything he needed to fix a cracked center case. Sourced a whole nother engine and tore it down and handed him the parts and everything. Guy turned out to not be so much of a good friend and that's that. If you're looking for lots of info on the pre 96, check out drriders.com They've got a dedicated pre 96 section of the forum. That forum has actually been around since before FB.
like your style, got same problem with a suzuki intruder that i am just going to do the same BUT i think my ends need to be grounded, i will try both, good job, what about all the other wires that are not connected to anything now?
Is there a way to identify the diode that the small clip goes on, looks like there are more than one in the same area, what color wires run into it? And what size are the connections that you made the short grounding loop with the blue ones?
Thanks for the awsame video! Why is it better to make the custom connectors and bridges instead of just cutting the wires to the diode, the relay and the kill switch stock connector and just solder them together with a shrink sleeve on top to give it a proper isolation?
You can certainly do that. I left the option open to be able to revert completely back to stock if desired, in such an event as maybe selling the bike.
Excellent Video! Just picked up a stock 2001 DR and I'm starting to trick it out. One off topic question. Where did you get that little pack on your luggage rack? Thanks
Yes, but I recommend just following all the steps. I have you bypass a diode cuz if it fails, no start. Same with the clutch switch. As well as the relay.
Great video...I subscribed....Question....What did you do with yellow wire once removed from headlight area for clutch kill switch? Could you make vid or offer any advice for removing California emission junk and proper carb and gas tank venting. Also, changing a vacuum petcock to a manual one keeping stock tank with California type gas cap and venting. Thanks, if you have time....
The yellow wires up front on the left side of the handlebars are for the clutch switch. You follow the wires from the switch on the handlebar to where they plug into the harness behind the headlight. Once you find where they connect, unplug the wires coming from the handle bars and then plug the harness wires into themselves. One should be female, and the other male, they should connect. Now, the wires coming from the switch on the clutch lever bracket, just remove the switch and the wires. You don't need them anymore. The vacuum operated petcock can just be removed and replaced with a manual one, and the nipple on the cap of the carb can just be plugged. Don't forget to remove the orifice filter inside of the fuel inlet elbow tube of the carb if you haven't already. It's an unnecessary restriction. As for the emissions canisters, they were already removed from my bike when I purchased it. But, I would check out drriders.com This site pre-dates the FB group pages and is an invaluable resource.
Why not just jump the side stand switch wires? I see other guys doing that. I checked the resistance on the kickstand switch and it doesn't apear to just be an open/close switch. Is this why you do it this way? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks
mxracerguy hey thanks for the comment! Sure, you can simply bypass the side stand switch. But that doesnt eliminate fail points in the system. The components I removed, the relay, and the diode, and the clutch lever switch are all prone to failure. Bridging the diode connection ensures the neutral sending unit still lights the neutral light on the dash when in neutral. These components do not fail very often, but if it does happen, your bike will not start and you could potentially spend hours trying to figure out why. Not a big deal if you are at home or close to home when or if that happens, but if you're planning a big trip that leads you to remote areas or 3rd world countries it is a good idea to eliminate as many potential failure points as possible. I made this video for the benefit of others after doing a lot of research and reading several write-ups on how to properly disable the side stand kill switch. I searched for videos but could not find any so I made one.
Thanks a lot for getting back to me. That is awesome info to know. Just so you know I followed your mods exactly and just did a big 1000 Mile ride. The bike worked perfect and I loved not having that stupid side stand switch and clutch switch. Thanks a lot for putting this video together!
So this video is actually showing 4 different mods that are not dependent on each other? If I just want to remove the kickstand kill switch I only bypass the green plug right? It shouldn't effect the neutral light or the clutch kill or anything else right?
15 up front, 42 in rear. Check out gearingcommander.com if you want to play around with gearing and get an idea of how different gearing will affect your machine.
The previous owner of my bike removed them. Will the bike crank if something went wrong with the bypasses? Right now I have crank and no spark, going through every option.
Stephen, hi. The point of the modifications in this video is to eliminate 3 different items. The reason these items are eliminated from the system is to prevent a no start situation. It is likely that your issue is of a different nature. That being said, you could use my video here to double check your bike and the previous owners work to ensure it is modified properly. Sorry for the late response.
This may sound dumb ,but on the duel male connection what gauge is that black wire connecting the 2. Or do they come like that minus the soldering? Also where can/who sells the connectors?
Typically harbor freight, or autozone, or O-reilly's will sell the box of connectors. I don't remember what gauge the wire is off the top of my head, but a good rule of thumb is thicker is better (within reason) Thinner wire will have more resistance and could heat up. Going just a smidge thicker will keep you in the safe zone.
@@Max_Chooch Ok I did it and it worked. I used 16 gauge wire I hope that's ok. Had some problems with the red connecters, had to double the ends up to made them fit. Took a test ride and it seems ok, thanks for the reply. if it over heats the wire will it blow a fuse and do u know what's size I may have to get? I need to do some research on where the fuse box is , lol. I have only had my DR for about a month so I am a noob.
Just did all this on my 4 day old '20... Awesome! So what does the diode control? I'm assuming the relay is related to the kickstand switch since you did not jumper it at the connection?
🤔 if my memory serves me correctly, I believe it had something to do with keeping the NSU lighting up the neutral indicator on the dash but it's honestly been like 3 years since I did all the research and I can't remember exactly. I do remember that if it fails, it will prevent the bike from starting.
@@Max_Chooch Just curious cause I know that a diode controls the current flow in one direction only so now with the jumper what happens if current feeds back the wrong way??... is it gonna fry or shorten the lifespan of another component?
I don't think so. I've had mine done this way for 3 years now and have never had a problem with anything like that. Nobody else whose used this video has either.
It's been a long time since I studied the wiring diagrams for the bike, I had to do several days' worth of research to come up with this procedure and I think, if I remember correctly (which I may not) that the diode has something to do with the neutral light still working after the mods because it's also tied into the kick stand kill switch circuit via the relay. I think that's what I remember. What I do know for sure is that if that diode fails, you'll be left with a crank-no start type of situation, and if that's 1000 miles away from home, you're screwed. Also, this procedure has been reviewed by the great MXRob, creator of the original drriders.com website that existed before Facebook and was THE go to source for info about the 1996 to current DR650SE and its predecessor, the 1992-95 DR650S. MXRob pinned this video to that website as the go-to how-to for this mod. It's legit. If you do this mod. Bypass the diode. There's no reason not to.
Awesome video! Are you able to provide links to where we can buy the correct dual male connector for the relay and the red terminal thingy for where the diode goes? And did you use wire cutters to cut the red one? When it comes to electrical stuff we're complete idiots. Thank you!!!
Troy Thomas Can you confirm the following? Harbor Freight item # 67683. From this use two 16-14ga male disconnects connected by one 16-14ga butt connector. Then cut one 16-14ga spade terminal to place into diode. We greatly appreciate it.
@mjohnson6703 if the clutch switch fails, the bike won't start. I can't remember if it just won't start at all or if it won't start in gear (being able to start in gear is one reason the sidestand kill switch is typically deleted) It's a failure point that experienced riders don't actually need to have on their bikes, especially if they're traveling remotely.
Yes. The Relay becomes an unnecessary part without the side stand switch and since power to the ignition goes through that relay, if it were to fail.. could leave you scratching your head wondering why you have a no start situation. If you don't have the switch why have the relay?
Why are you asking me about the price of a spark plug? That is a question for who you buy the spark plugs from, not some random dude on TH-cam. Go to your local motorcycle store and ask them.
My friend, I always follow you and that I cannot go because I am from Syria and I want to buy one and I do not know if I have the price, so please watch the time and thank you very much
In what regard? What year is your bike? Suzuki started putting locktite on those screws in 2016 or 17 I believe. If you're worried about them backing out, then go buy the safety wire kit from procycle.us and safetey wire them. There's plenty of other videshowing you how to do that, but this video here that I posted is not for that, it's for disabling the inconvenient feature of the kickstand killing your engine while your riding because ya bounced hard and it released the side stand kill switch.
Now that's how you make a youtube tutorial. Concise, accurate, no music. Awesome
You just made a lot of people's lives a little more simpler with one 3+ minute video. That kick-stand switch especially is a pain in the neck. "Thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
You sir, are a genius. Every Tube tutorial should be done by you. The world would be a better place.
Just bought a new 2019 DR. Will be doing another round australia trip in 2020. Of course doing all the necessary changes to get it up to spec. Then I came across your video, waaay better than the others as it covers all the proper procedures to make it fail safe.
Have already made the changes.
Thanks heaps!
You guys are most welcome! Glad to help. I had to do a bunch or research to figure it out so I figured I'd make a video to save others the trouble.
Thank you 👍
I have to say it again, best video ever for this mod. Quick, understandable, and best of all it works!!! I’ve referenced this video for doing this mod five times now!
Six times now
Just another viewer stopping in to say thank you -- did this by-pass just now, and am very grateful for your clear and direct video.
Dude... out of all the videos ive seen (close to 80) youre the ONLY ONE whos actually helpfull
Dude, you had the most comprehensive video. Chucking the diode was really special. You simplified up the whole bike and got rid of all the, 'Safety Features' that just plain suck because they are repair issues waiting to happen. Very Cool my friend. We don't need this stupid crap and someday it will not be installed on bikes,....... someday,... thanks again.
Perfect results from doing this on my 2019 model. Very much appreciation for your diligent research, simple solution, and terse presentation.
Video saved my trip. I had bypassed everything shown here several years ago except the relay mod. Bike suddenly would not crank. Removed and jumped the relay and started right up. Do all these mods or you will eventually have issues.
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear that.
A genuine concern that I may encounter that very situation is the reason I made this video.
Detailed and concise. Great video. After gumming up my switch last night I decided to do this mod. Glad I saw your video as I was just going to close the switch off. Took 15 minutes after watching your vid.
I'm glad you found my video :)
Excellent, no nonsense vid. Would appreciate knowing what that diode is protecting reverse flow of current from before removing/jumping. Hard to find info on what it’s purpose for being there is…(was) in your case.
Bridging the diode connection ensures the neutral sending unit still lights the neutral light on the dash when in neutral.
There's write ups on drriders.com, thousands, and I read through years ago when I made this video. I can't remember the specific situation that riders faced when this diode failed, but that there is potential for the nsu signal to not illuminate the neutral light when bypassing the sidestand kill switch which is why I included it in the video.
Best video ever. Thank you
Thanks for the vid, just did this on my 2004 DR650. Appreciate the time you put in to make this video. Cheers.
Thanks VERY much for this incredibly helpful video. I've done the kickstand and tossed the relay on my 2013, and I hope to work on the diode and clutch soon.
Just did it. Short and sweet. Worked great !!!
Entertaining and easy to understand! Thanks for the great video!
Straight and the point - an instructional video as it should be!
Thanks for a great helpful video. I have completed this one and the kill switch detent removal with your help.
Thanks for taking the time to make a video man, Cheers.
Thank you very much for showing the proper way to do this!
Excellent explanation and visuals. Thanks.
Just for good measure I also made a backup jumper wire and backup jumper clip and stuck them in my tool kit. I used adhesive waterproof Marine heat shrink on the jumper wire / male ends too.
My mission today is to do this to my 2009 DR650.. thanks for the video.
Z Shark, mine is also a 2009. Good luck!
Hey, what a great video. Thanks for making this!
Finally another pre 96 channel thanks and I’ll be sure to like and sub
Not so much anymore. I no longer have my 1993. I gifted it to a friend along with everything he needed to fix a cracked center case. Sourced a whole nother engine and tore it down and handed him the parts and everything. Guy turned out to not be so much of a good friend and that's that. If you're looking for lots of info on the pre 96, check out drriders.com
They've got a dedicated pre 96 section of the forum. That forum has actually been around since before FB.
Awesome thanks 🙏
Thanks. That’s how to do it! So happy to not to watch a 30 minute video to do a 15 minute job!
Very detailed instructions!
that badass so cool bro love the vid
right on man - solid explanation - thanks!
Great job.
Thank you, thank you , thank you for producing this video! :-)
Thanks, just did this. What do you all plug the frame holes with? I just reused the clips that hold the cord on.
Brilliant and super helpful. thanks you.
👍cheers! Merry Christmas!!
:) Merry Christmas to you too my friend
Thank You.
Excellent
THANK YOU
like your style, got same problem with a suzuki intruder that i am just going to do the same BUT i think my ends need to be grounded, i will try both, good job, what about all the other wires that are not connected to anything now?
Is there a way to identify the diode that the small clip goes on, looks like there are more than one in the same area, what color wires run into it? And what size are the connections that you made the short grounding loop with the blue ones?
You da man
Nice!! Would this work on Suzuki DR 200?
I'm not sure. I presume the wiring would probably be the same so it might, but I've never actually checked out the wiring diagrams for the 200.
Thanks for the awsame video!
Why is it better to make the custom connectors and bridges instead of just cutting the wires to the diode, the relay and the kill switch stock connector and just solder them together with a shrink sleeve on top to give it a proper isolation?
You can certainly do that. I left the option open to be able to revert completely back to stock if desired, in such an event as maybe selling the bike.
Excellent Video! Just picked up a stock 2001 DR and I'm starting to trick it out. One off topic question. Where did you get that little pack on your luggage rack? Thanks
It was a gift from a friend many years ago and I think she got it from a thrift store lol
Yes, but I recommend just following all the steps. I have you bypass a diode cuz if it fails, no start.
Same with the clutch switch. As well as the relay.
Great video...I subscribed....Question....What did you do with yellow wire once removed from headlight area for clutch kill switch? Could you make vid or offer any advice for removing California emission junk and proper carb and gas tank venting. Also, changing a vacuum petcock to a manual one keeping stock tank with California type gas cap and venting. Thanks, if you have time....
The yellow wires up front on the left side of the handlebars are for the clutch switch. You follow the wires from the switch on the handlebar to where they plug into the harness behind the headlight. Once you find where they connect, unplug the wires coming from the handle bars and then plug the harness wires into themselves. One should be female, and the other male, they should connect. Now, the wires coming from the switch on the clutch lever bracket, just remove the switch and the wires. You don't need them anymore. The vacuum operated petcock can just be removed and replaced with a manual one, and the nipple on the cap of the carb can just be plugged. Don't forget to remove the orifice filter inside of the fuel inlet elbow tube of the carb if you haven't already. It's an unnecessary restriction. As for the emissions canisters, they were already removed from my bike when I purchased it. But, I would check out drriders.com
This site pre-dates the FB group pages and is an invaluable resource.
Why not just jump the side stand switch wires? I see other guys doing that. I checked the resistance on the kickstand switch and it doesn't apear to just be an open/close switch. Is this why you do it this way? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks
mxracerguy hey thanks for the comment! Sure, you can simply bypass the side stand switch. But that doesnt eliminate fail points in the system. The components I removed, the relay, and the diode, and the clutch lever switch are all prone to failure. Bridging the diode connection ensures the neutral sending unit still lights the neutral light on the dash when in neutral.
These components do not fail very often, but if it does happen, your bike will not start and you could potentially spend hours trying to figure out why. Not a big deal if you are at home or close to home when or if that happens, but if you're planning a big trip that leads you to remote areas or 3rd world countries it is a good idea to eliminate as many potential failure points as possible. I made this video for the benefit of others after doing a lot of research and reading several write-ups on how to properly disable the side stand kill switch. I searched for videos but could not find any so I made one.
Thanks a lot for getting back to me. That is awesome info to know. Just so you know I followed your mods exactly and just did a big 1000 Mile ride. The bike worked perfect and I loved not having that stupid side stand switch and clutch switch. Thanks a lot for putting this video together!
So this video is actually showing 4 different mods that are not dependent on each other? If I just want to remove the kickstand kill switch I only bypass the green plug right? It shouldn't effect the neutral light or the clutch kill or anything else right?
Dude! What size rear sprocket you running? Thing looks super small
Stock. I've never changed the gearing.
15 up front, 42 in rear.
Check out gearingcommander.com if you want to play around with gearing and get an idea of how different gearing will affect your machine.
I did this with my 97 and the starter runs continuously unless the key is turned off?!?
The previous owner of my bike removed them. Will the bike crank if something went wrong with the bypasses? Right now I have crank and no spark, going through every option.
Stephen, hi. The point of the modifications in this video is to eliminate 3 different items. The reason these items are eliminated from the system is to prevent a no start situation. It is likely that your issue is of a different nature. That being said, you could use my video here to double check your bike and the previous owners work to ensure it is modified properly.
Sorry for the late response.
What gauge black wire did you use there?
@@mjohnson6703 wire as big as or slightly bigger than the wire that goes to the plug.
This may sound dumb ,but on the duel male connection what gauge is that black wire connecting the 2. Or do they come like that minus the soldering? Also where can/who sells the connectors?
Typically harbor freight, or autozone, or O-reilly's will sell the box of connectors. I don't remember what gauge the wire is off the top of my head, but a good rule of thumb is thicker is better (within reason)
Thinner wire will have more resistance and could heat up. Going just a smidge thicker will keep you in the safe zone.
Also, I crimped the connectors onto a short piece of wire and then soldered them in place for good measure.
@@Max_Chooch Ok I did it and it worked. I used 16 gauge wire I hope that's ok. Had some problems with the red connecters, had to double the ends up to made them fit. Took a test ride and it seems ok, thanks for the reply. if it over heats the wire will it blow a fuse and do u know what's size I may have to get? I need to do some research on where the fuse box is , lol. I have only had my DR for about a month so I am a noob.
You not going to blow any fuses if your wire is of equal or greater size than the rest.
There are 2 fuses on the bike. Right hand side, under the side panel, covered by a clear ish white cap.
lifesaver!
where did ya score the locking gas cap bro??
It's the stock gas cap.
Is this possible to do on Suzuki gsxr oil cooled from 89'
Probably wired similarly but maybe not the same. I had to scour the forums of the web and study wiring diagrams to figure this one out.
Just did all this on my 4 day old '20... Awesome! So what does the diode control? I'm assuming the relay is related to the kickstand switch since you did not jumper it at the connection?
🤔 if my memory serves me correctly, I believe it had something to do with keeping the NSU lighting up the neutral indicator on the dash but it's honestly been like 3 years since I did all the research and I can't remember exactly. I do remember that if it fails, it will prevent the bike from starting.
@@Max_Chooch Just curious cause I know that a diode controls the current flow in one direction only so now with the jumper what happens if current feeds back the wrong way??... is it gonna fry or shorten the lifespan of another component?
I don't think so. I've had mine done this way for 3 years now and have never had a problem with anything like that. Nobody else whose used this video has either.
@@Max_Chooch Cool. Thanks for the update!
What is the diode for ?
It's been a long time since I studied the wiring diagrams for the bike, I had to do several days' worth of research to come up with this procedure and I think, if I remember correctly (which I may not) that the diode has something to do with the neutral light still working after the mods because it's also tied into the kick stand kill switch circuit via the relay. I think that's what I remember.
What I do know for sure is that if that diode fails, you'll be left with a crank-no start type of situation, and if that's 1000 miles away from home, you're screwed.
Also, this procedure has been reviewed by the great MXRob, creator of the original drriders.com website that existed before Facebook and was THE go to source for info about the 1996 to current DR650SE and its predecessor, the 1992-95 DR650S. MXRob pinned this video to that website as the go-to how-to for this mod. It's legit. If you do this mod. Bypass the diode. There's no reason not to.
I need to do this
Awesome video! Are you able to provide links to where we can buy the correct dual male connector for the relay and the red terminal thingy for where the diode goes? And did you use wire cutters to cut the red one? When it comes to electrical stuff we're complete idiots. Thank you!!!
David & Elizabeth
I bought the terminal kit at harbor freight and yeah I just snipped the terminal with wire cutters.
We'll look into Harbor Freight. Thanks again.
Troy Thomas Can you confirm the following? Harbor Freight item # 67683. From this use two 16-14ga male disconnects connected by one 16-14ga butt connector. Then cut one 16-14ga spade terminal to place into diode. We greatly appreciate it.
David & Elizabeth did that work for you? Planning to do this tomorrow
If I just want to do the side stand, I can stop at 1:57, correct? (After I tape over that ghetto home-made connection.)
Yes, but not doing everything will leave potential "no-start" failure points within the system.
What is the purpose of eliminating the clutch kill switch?
@mjohnson6703 if the clutch switch fails, the bike won't start. I can't remember if it just won't start at all or if it won't start in gear (being able to start in gear is one reason the sidestand kill switch is typically deleted)
It's a failure point that experienced riders don't actually need to have on their bikes, especially if they're traveling remotely.
Question: why did you bypass the relay at the rear of the bike? Just another piece to fail??
Yes. The Relay becomes an unnecessary part without the side stand switch and since power to the ignition goes through that relay, if it were to fail.. could leave you scratching your head wondering why you have a no start situation. If you don't have the switch why have the relay?
Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated.
How much is the price of the spark plug, please?
Why are you asking me about the price of a spark plug? That is a question for who you buy the spark plugs from, not some random dude on TH-cam. Go to your local motorcycle store and ask them.
My friend, I always follow you and that I cannot go because I am from Syria and I want to buy one and I do not know if I have the price, so please watch the time and thank you very much
what year is your dr650
2009.
This procedure works for all dr650s between 1996 and now because Suzuki hasn't changed anything since now and then.
2009.
This procedure works for all dr650s between 1996 and now because Suzuki hasn't changed anything since now and then.
At 1:36 seconds what is that diode for?
It's been a while, but if I remember correctly it allows the neutral light to still work with the mods
But should I do this for a friends bike 😂 I don’t what something the happen like start it up in gear
User assumes all liability lol
i am more worried about the neutral switch,,,,
In what regard? What year is your bike? Suzuki started putting locktite on those screws in 2016 or 17 I believe. If you're worried about them backing out, then go buy the safety wire kit from procycle.us and safetey wire them. There's plenty of other videshowing you how to do that, but this video here that I posted is not for that, it's for disabling the inconvenient feature of the kickstand killing your engine while your riding because ya bounced hard and it released the side stand kill switch.
Great job and thank you so much!