I just completed this job on my 2011 corolla with your video for assistance. Thank you. I liked the multi view when you were pushing the new cv axle in.
You're welcome. Thanks. Yeah, I did that picture-in-picture view because I also thought that was cool as well. It makes it helpful for you guys. Thanks.
Saw this video because I’m preparing for a possible replacement. I have a rhythmic rumbling sound from the front on my 06 Corolla that is even more pronounced when I turn to the right and assumed it was a wheel bearing. Replaced the drivers side but no change so I’m going to try the passenger side and if nothing changes I’ll probably move on to the CV axles. Great video. 👍
Thanks for the great video. I've got a Toyota 2007 Corolla, same set up, and have replaced the driveshaft with your guidance. Most clear advice that I've seen.
Thanks. It's a she. I believe it is an American Short Hair cat, but I'm not sure. Unfortunately, my next door neighbour moved and so I don't think I will be seeing that cat again.😪
hi moose, like the way you work.i have a 97 toyota that i put on a axle on the drivers side but having trouble finding the fill hole. on the trans (A24-5E) still looking for it. thank you john lockwood
OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller amz.run/9BE1 Kent-Moore J-46009 - Front Axle Shaft Remover J-46009 is required to remove the Front Axle Shafts. The Axle Shafts have a very limited access area and require a Hook Style Tool to prevent damage to the Boot. 2005 Toyota Corolla - Passenger Side CV Drive Axle Replacement th-cam.com/video/QZ1yiU5g6IU/w-d-xo.html Just to clear some things out for you guys who like to criticize and judge me about my videos instead of using it as knowledge/information. I am getting some comments here about that I damaged the axle seal in the video. For your information I ended up replacing that seal with another one because I accidentally damaged the first seal. This was done off camera. We are human and we all make mistakes, but it is up to us to learn and correct them and not to make the same mistake again after learning from them. I made this video with the effort of helping others out and not to have people judge me about my repairs. This is how I do my own repairs. UPDATE: It's been almost one year now and there are ZERO leaks and it is all dry so just letting everyone know.
Is it necessary to drain the transmission fluid? Apparently so, according to the official workshop manual, but on TH-cam several people do not. What is the reason? Is it just a safety issue because there may already be a leak in place that would become abundant once the CV axle is removed? OK, it would be a mess but just keep a container ready. After all, I could have just changed the transmission fluid according to my maintenance schedule and find myself having to change the axle due to an unforeseen failure shortly afterwards. The transmission fluid would still be new.
You don't have to. It is just to prevent making a mess, but you don't need to. If you don't drain the transmission fluid all you need to do is top it up after that if you are not changing the fluid. It may be a liter or 1.5 liters of fluid that may come out or less it will vary depending on the vehicle sometimes more sometimes much less. So whatever comes out just top it up with the amount that came out and check the level afterwards. When the transmission fluid drains out from the axle output shaft area it does not drain out nicely so even when placing a container or drain bucket there will be a little bit of a mess so you will need brake cleaner to clean and wipe off the area. If you are doing a transmission service then you could drain the fluid, change the axle and then top fill it up after that. There's no right or wrong answer just a matter of preference. Some people don't drain the transmission because the customer is only paying to replace an axle or both axles and not for a transmission service. So topping it up is what most guys would do anyway.
Local auto parts store - Part Source. National/PTC output shaft seal # PT710109. I think PTC and National are the same brand/company. No problems with these seals so far.
So my mechanic said they don’t make original axles any more for my 03 Corolla, but I’m worried about getting aftermarket ones. Is there a possibility that aftermarket axles can cause the transmission fluid to leak? Should I get original seals at least? And what aftermarket axles would you recommend? Thanks..
It's true. In most cases you can't get the original axles and they are super expensive. I've had good luck with most aftermarket axles. I've found some aftermarket axles were better than the originals and lasted longer. I typically use Cardone (new axles not remanufactured) and I've also used SurTrack by Trakmotive. I've never seen or heard about axles leaking transmission fluid from the transmission. If that's the case you'd probably want to change the axle seal at the same time. Usually when installing a new axle it will damage the old axle seal in most cases and that's why I typically change out the axle seal when I replace an axle. The original or aftermarket seals both work fine. You could get the seals from Toyota no problem.
You can also get used oem cv axles in very good condition from ebay or your local junkyard. I got mine from ebay for a very good price with no issues. Just make sure you go through the pics, details and seller ratings.
You don't have to drain it, but some fluid will come out when the axle comes out. Usually a liter or a liter and a half. You just need to top it up the same amount that comes out and check the level after the test drive. I just drained the fluid to help prevent any big messes.
OTC 7509 for the slide hammer inner cv joint puller. It's a 5 pounder I believe since I weighed it altogether with the nut it weighs 6.54 Lbs. on my scale.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks! I battled this over last weekend. I won by tying it up with strands of 0.040 Aircraft Safety wire and hammering the anchor point where I wound the strands to. Now looking at getting the "proper" tooling for future use. I appreciate your video and reply. Cheers!
@@markanthonymariano4416 Sounds cool and creative as long as it worked. A lot of Toyotas are problematic with the access for the driver's side axle on some transmissions. They came out with that Kent-Moore tool specifically for that. Yeah, it's a lot harder without the tool, but life is easier with it. I learned about it not too long ago. But most of the time I've been using pry bars, chisels, hammers and the 2-piece axle popper tool that looks like a pickle fork sort of. Thanks for the support. You're welcome my friend.
The OTC 7509 can be bought online like on Amazon. The Kent-Moore 46009 tool will be hard to find I bought mine off eBay for cheap and got lucky because the person who sold it never used it and it was pretty much brand new. It may have to be ordered somewhere online or through the parts department from a Toyota dealership if they still make it. Kent-Moore J tools are usually extremely expensive stuff.
I replaced the seal because often when you replace an axle there is a high chance that the new axle will damage the old/current seal(s). 9 out of 10 times in my experience the new axle will damage the old seal and cause a leak. Therefore, I just replace the seal(s) to be on the safe side and so I don't have a leak after the job is finished.
No problems. Just a slight leak of grease from the axles over time and large cracks in the inboard cv boots. Although the customer has stated that the steering wheel felt better and less stiff after replacement. I would check to see if the right side brake caliper is seized up and I would also check the steering and suspension for any play/looseness.
I have a 2013 Corolla and the drive axle, rotors, brake pads were changed and it makes a noise as if it were scraping metal on metal and the mechanic gave up, he didn't get it right
Does it make a scraping noise when driving normally or when you apply the brakes? Metal on metal scraping noises would mean that the brake pads are worn down to the metal. I would double check the brake job that was done and make sure everything was installed properly and moving freely. I would also check for loose bolts or anything obvious. Depending how bad the noise you are describing it is possible that the backing plates on either side would be rubbing against the back of the rotors so I would check that too. You could bend back the backing plates away from the rotors and see if the noise goes away. Is the noise on one side only or both sides? Aside from that if nothing is obvious it is difficult to know without seeing the vehicle.
@@jettaibm Does the vehicle sound louder the faster you go? Does it sound like a rumbling or whining noise? It's possible that the wheel bearing got damaged when the mechanic replaced the axle if they did not torque the axle nut properly. Also, was the transmission fluid topped up when replacing the axle? Because some transmission fluid will be lost when you remove the axle. Other than that I can't really say much or tell you the source of the noise without seeing and hearing the vehicle. You could make a video clip and post a link somewhere if you want to share a video. Grinding noises should be obvious and should be easy to find if it's that bad.
If the noise started after replacing the brakes and axle then I would investigate and have a look at that. It's possible the axle is defective causing the noise especially if you feel a vibration or if the noise happens on acceleration. I would have a closer look at the brakes as well even if the parts are new. Cheap brake pads and or rotors can cause problems too. A closer inspection is needed to see what went wrong.
If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
Two things I have a problem with, one you damaged that new seal never use a pointed punch to install a seal, number two why didn’t you install new brake pads and new rotors it’s obvious by the grooves it’s time? And yes I’m a woman but my family owns two auto repair shops so I know what I’m talking about
I ended up getting another seal for the driver's side and used a seal installer tool at the end. Yes, I did damage the first one by accident. I did use a FLAT brass punch at first, but used a seal installer tool later on. The footage may or may not have been in the video. Sometimes you may need to improvise if the seal installer tools don't work and so using quarter inch extensions or large sockets may work while being careful at the same time not to do damage. I will admit I made some errors along the way, but fixed them. The vehicle is all good and no leaks. The front brakes are fine. There are very minor to light scoring if any which is OK because brake rotors allow some amount of tolerance/variation. Brake pads were around 5 to 6 mm. Rotors are OK and no pulsation. Looks may be deceiving on camera/video so you can't always go by that. Lastly, this is our family car and not a customer's car. Remember, this is just a guide/video to show people how a job is done and how I personally do the repairs. Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback.
I just completed this job on my 2011 corolla with your video for assistance. Thank you. I liked the multi view when you were pushing the new cv axle in.
You're welcome. Thanks. Yeah, I did that picture-in-picture view because I also thought that was cool as well. It makes it helpful for you guys. Thanks.
The part of the axle that goes into the transmission is stuck I only have a pry bar. Been going at it for 2 hours lol
How did you get it out
@@warriorplutotrent3827 i forgot how, I pulled onto and twisted it at the same time I think
Saw this video because I’m preparing for a possible replacement. I have a rhythmic rumbling sound from the front on my 06 Corolla that is even more pronounced when I turn to the right and assumed it was a wheel bearing. Replaced the drivers side but no change so I’m going to try the passenger side and if nothing changes I’ll probably move on to the CV axles. Great video. 👍
Thanks for the great video. I've got a Toyota 2007 Corolla, same set up, and have replaced the driveshaft with your guidance. Most clear advice that I've seen.
Great video thanks man 5 stars
Excellent
I presume with a standard trans that the fluid needs to be drained also.
Thanks for this video…
You make me full!
Thanks for your input.
Good job..love the cat ? Is he begalli cat ?
Thanks. It's a she. I believe it is an American Short Hair cat, but I'm not sure. Unfortunately, my next door neighbour moved and so I don't think I will be seeing that cat again.😪
Thanks for the video.
hi moose, like the way you work.i have a 97 toyota that i put on a axle on the drivers side but having trouble finding the fill hole. on the trans (A24-5E) still looking for it. thank you john lockwood
OTC 7509 Inner CV Joint Puller
amz.run/9BE1
Kent-Moore J-46009 - Front Axle Shaft Remover
J-46009 is required to remove the Front Axle Shafts. The Axle Shafts have a very limited access area and require a Hook Style Tool to prevent damage to the Boot.
2005 Toyota Corolla - Passenger Side CV Drive Axle Replacement
th-cam.com/video/QZ1yiU5g6IU/w-d-xo.html
Just to clear some things out for you guys who like to criticize and judge me about my videos instead of using it as knowledge/information. I am getting some comments here about that I damaged the axle seal in the video. For your information I ended up replacing that seal with another one because I accidentally damaged the first seal. This was done off camera. We are human and we all make mistakes, but it is up to us to learn and correct them and not to make the same mistake again after learning from them. I made this video with the effort of helping others out and not to have people judge me about my repairs. This is how I do my own repairs.
UPDATE: It's been almost one year now and there are ZERO leaks and it is all dry so just letting everyone know.
Is it necessary to drain the transmission fluid? Apparently so, according to the official workshop manual, but on TH-cam several people do not. What is the reason? Is it just a safety issue because there may already be a leak in place that would become abundant once the CV axle is removed? OK, it would be a mess but just keep a container ready. After all, I could have just changed the transmission fluid according to my maintenance schedule and find myself having to change the axle due to an unforeseen failure shortly afterwards. The transmission fluid would still be new.
You don't have to. It is just to prevent making a mess, but you don't need to. If you don't drain the transmission fluid all you need to do is top it up after that if you are not changing the fluid. It may be a liter or 1.5 liters of fluid that may come out or less it will vary depending on the vehicle sometimes more sometimes much less. So whatever comes out just top it up with the amount that came out and check the level afterwards.
When the transmission fluid drains out from the axle output shaft area it does not drain out nicely so even when placing a container or drain bucket there will be a little bit of a mess so you will need brake cleaner to clean and wipe off the area.
If you are doing a transmission service then you could drain the fluid, change the axle and then top fill it up after that. There's no right or wrong answer just a matter of preference. Some people don't drain the transmission because the customer is only paying to replace an axle or both axles and not for a transmission service. So topping it up is what most guys would do anyway.
Where did you get the seal from?
Local auto parts store - Part Source. National/PTC output shaft seal # PT710109. I think PTC and National are the same brand/company. No problems with these seals so far.
So my mechanic said they don’t make original axles any more for my 03 Corolla, but I’m worried about getting aftermarket ones. Is there a possibility that aftermarket axles can cause the transmission fluid to leak? Should I get original seals at least? And what aftermarket axles would you recommend? Thanks..
It's true. In most cases you can't get the original axles and they are super expensive. I've had good luck with most aftermarket axles. I've found some aftermarket axles were better than the originals and lasted longer.
I typically use Cardone (new axles not remanufactured) and I've also used SurTrack by Trakmotive.
I've never seen or heard about axles leaking transmission fluid from the transmission. If that's the case you'd probably want to change the axle seal at the same time. Usually when installing a new axle it will damage the old axle seal in most cases and that's why I typically change out the axle seal when I replace an axle.
The original or aftermarket seals both work fine. You could get the seals from Toyota no problem.
You can also get used oem cv axles in very good condition from ebay or your local junkyard. I got mine from ebay for a very good price with no issues. Just make sure you go through the pics, details and seller ratings.
Need this guy in my area
Did you drain your Automatic transmission fluid??
Yes, it's in the video.
@@moosemobileautorepairif i domt remove the transmission fluid it will leak?
You don't have to drain it, but some fluid will come out when the axle comes out. Usually a liter or a liter and a half. You just need to top it up the same amount that comes out and check the level after the test drive.
I just drained the fluid to help prevent any big messes.
👍👍👍
What's the part number for the sliding hammer that fit with the Kent-Moore J-46009? What weight sliding hammer did you use?
OTC 7509 for the slide hammer inner cv joint puller. It's a 5 pounder I believe since I weighed it altogether with the nut it weighs 6.54 Lbs. on my scale.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks! I battled this over last weekend. I won by tying it up with strands of 0.040 Aircraft Safety wire and hammering the anchor point where I wound the strands to. Now looking at getting the "proper" tooling for future use. I appreciate your video and reply. Cheers!
@@markanthonymariano4416 Sounds cool and creative as long as it worked. A lot of Toyotas are problematic with the access for the driver's side axle on some transmissions. They came out with that Kent-Moore tool specifically for that. Yeah, it's a lot harder without the tool, but life is easier with it. I learned about it not too long ago. But most of the time I've been using pry bars, chisels, hammers and the 2-piece axle popper tool that looks like a pickle fork sort of. Thanks for the support. You're welcome my friend.
Where can I buy the tool ?
The OTC 7509 can be bought online like on Amazon. The Kent-Moore 46009 tool will be hard to find I bought mine off eBay for cheap and got lucky because the person who sold it never used it and it was pretty much brand new. It may have to be ordered somewhere online or through the parts department from a Toyota dealership if they still make it. Kent-Moore J tools are usually extremely expensive stuff.
Why did you remove the seal can’t you just replace the axle?
I replaced the seal because often when you replace an axle there is a high chance that the new axle will damage the old/current seal(s). 9 out of 10 times in my experience the new axle will damage the old seal and cause a leak. Therefore, I just replace the seal(s) to be on the safe side and so I don't have a leak after the job is finished.
What problem were you having. I have a 2005 corolla. when I press on the brake the steering wheel turns to the left.
No problems. Just a slight leak of grease from the axles over time and large cracks in the inboard cv boots. Although the customer has stated that the steering wheel felt better and less stiff after replacement.
I would check to see if the right side brake caliper is seized up and I would also check the steering and suspension for any play/looseness.
I did exactly like this and everything is great but now the transmission is not working well its stuck in 4 and sliping allot
I have a 2013 Corolla and the drive axle, rotors, brake pads were changed and it makes a noise as if it were scraping metal on metal and the mechanic gave up, he didn't get it right
Does it make a scraping noise when driving normally or when you apply the brakes? Metal on metal scraping noises would mean that the brake pads are worn down to the metal. I would double check the brake job that was done and make sure everything was installed properly and moving freely. I would also check for loose bolts or anything obvious. Depending how bad the noise you are describing it is possible that the backing plates on either side would be rubbing against the back of the rotors so I would check that too. You could bend back the backing plates away from the rotors and see if the noise goes away. Is the noise on one side only or both sides?
Aside from that if nothing is obvious it is difficult to know without seeing the vehicle.
the brake pads and rotors are new the noise makes it in motion and it does not go away by stepping on the brake
@@jettaibm Does the vehicle sound louder the faster you go? Does it sound like a rumbling or whining noise? It's possible that the wheel bearing got damaged when the mechanic replaced the axle if they did not torque the axle nut properly. Also, was the transmission fluid topped up when replacing the axle? Because some transmission fluid will be lost when you remove the axle. Other than that I can't really say much or tell you the source of the noise without seeing and hearing the vehicle. You could make a video clip and post a link somewhere if you want to share a video. Grinding noises should be obvious and should be easy to find if it's that bad.
If the noise started after replacing the brakes and axle then I would investigate and have a look at that. It's possible the axle is defective causing the noise especially if you feel a vibration or if the noise happens on acceleration.
I would have a closer look at the brakes as well even if the parts are new. Cheap brake pads and or rotors can cause problems too.
A closer inspection is needed to see what went wrong.
Damage oil seal you install.
I installed a new one after that off camera. Please read the other comments.
If you enjoyed this video and found it helpful please support my channel by hitting the LIKE 👍and SUBSCRIBE buttons and turning on the bell notifications to get notified when I put out a new video.
Two things I have a problem with, one you damaged that new seal never use a pointed punch to install a seal, number two why didn’t you install new brake pads and new rotors it’s obvious by the grooves it’s time? And yes I’m a woman but my family owns two auto repair shops so I know what I’m talking about
I ended up getting another seal for the driver's side and used a seal installer tool at the end. Yes, I did damage the first one by accident. I did use a FLAT brass punch at first, but used a seal installer tool later on. The footage may or may not have been in the video.
Sometimes you may need to improvise if the seal installer tools don't work and so using quarter inch extensions or large sockets may work while being careful at the same time not to do damage. I will admit I made some errors along the way, but fixed them. The vehicle is all good and no leaks.
The front brakes are fine. There are very minor to light scoring if any which is OK because brake rotors allow some amount of tolerance/variation. Brake pads were around 5 to 6 mm. Rotors are OK and no pulsation. Looks may be deceiving on camera/video so you can't always go by that.
Lastly, this is our family car and not a customer's car.
Remember, this is just a guide/video to show people how a job is done and how I personally do the repairs.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback.