Note that mounting pressure matters a lot! On the first try I got 30-35 degree water temperature and 50-55 degree GPU temperature. After reseating the cooler and properly tightening the screws (but not overtightening!) the GPU temperature dropped 10 degrees.
Floris Buwalda Hmmm, I’m running a MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 Ti, NZXT Kraken X61 w/the Kraken G12 and swapped the X61’s stock fans for Corsair’s ML140s. My idle temp is 40C but it’ll ramp up to anywhere between 65C and 75C when playing a game at 4K that’s really pushing the card. At 60C my my fan speeds at ~55% @ ~1200RPMs. While sitting here letting Unigine Heaven run it’s Extreme preset, it doesn’t go above 63C. My GPU clock is at 2,000MHz, and my Memory is clocked at 5805MHz. My OC settings in MSI Afterburner are: +100 Core Voltage 117% Power Limit 75C Temp Limit +50 Core Clock +250 Memory Clock Custom Fan speed 40C - 25% 45C - 30% 50C - 35% 55C - 40% 60C - 50% 65C - 65% 70C - 100%
@@DJHeroMasta well that's because you've unnecessarily maxed out the voltage instead of maxing the power limit and temp limit(I doubt 117% and 75c are the max) and only achieved a measly overclock of +50 to the core clock while adding +100 to the core voltage. That's just unnecessary. +50 should be doable on stock voltage.
@@miniweeddeerz1820 Yeah, I've since realized that the Voltage OC was unecessary. I had forgotten that this "Gaming X" card is pre-overclocked. I now just run the card stock and my temps are back to normal. And that +50MHz makes my card run at 2101MHz.
@@DJHeroMasta I would try push it harder. +50mhz core even in a ore overclocked card does not mean much because any factory overclocks are basically redundant because Nvidia GPU boost technology surpasses any official clocks of any Nvidia GPU, aftermarket or not.
@@miniweeddeerz1820 You think I can push this GTX 1080 Ti past 2.1GHz on an AIO with it's default power delivery and BIOS? I don't think so. Nothing is stable past 2.1 for me even when I had the voltage maxed out. I don't have any headers connected to the main board either so there isn't any power draw from fans.
I used to run a Kraken G12 on a EVGA 1080ti ftw3. Kept the core temps below 36c but memory temps and vram temps were higher than with the original cooler.
It's because some vrm heatsinks sould be bought along with the g12..you watercool the gpu but remove most of the airflow and dissipation from the vrm..if you have a baseplate would be smart to leave that on if possible or buy some heatsinks with thermal tape
Interested in a 3080/3090 revist for this mod...I've seen one for a ventus 3080 which required new holes to be drilled on the g12 but the results were inspiring...
Would be good to know if this would make a 3080 into a 2 slot dimension so it can fit in a DAN A4. Ultimate cooling in SFF if it takes a 2+ slot card into 2.
@@md-im8qp they put the cooling system of a 1060 on a 1080 and 1080ti so that it was a bit cheaper (people go the WC could care less about stock temps). It was intended, no ifs or buts about it...
@@tommyboy5924 ok angery snowflake, instead of going like kiddo or shit like that, first, waterblock-gpu's exist. like aorus waterforce extreme. opening a pre waterblocked gpu is complely useless considering changing the thermalpaste on gpu's dont make much sense, even liquid metal cant make a difference more than a degree. if you wanna use the word intended, you can use it for the aorus card, not this. Infact, I know lots of people who just went with a ventus 2080 Ti / armour 1080 ti just because it was the cheapest. now you can fuck off, imagine getting pissed about this. say hi to your mother for mr if you decide get the fuck out of the basement, asshole.
one thing to note, you really need to test the gpu frame timing before/after the application. its nice to have mhz bump, but if the frame pacing is better, that is way more valuable irl.
@@optimumtech great video for the record dont get me wrong ! and awesome work lately for your videos, dude you have the sickest B-roll amongst all the tech channels !! ok i mean a graph like th-cam.com/video/W3ehmETMOmw/w-d-xo.html this one. at the end of the day, frame rate and the boost clock speed might be the same/similar, but frame timing can be really different from time to time, and that is what ultimately matters. i would much prefer a steady 100fps than 180 all over the place fps. simply FPS is measured every second, and 1 second nowadays is just too long to be precise enough.
@@_DeadEnd_ Obviously I know what a frame time is, just watch any of my GPU reviews. The question was why it matters. If the GPU is faster, it's faster. Reducing the GPU temp doesn't sporadically make it stutter (or the inverse) in normal gaming scenarios.
Thank you for this. I fitted a G12 to my 2080Ti and have been trying to decide whether I should add VRM cooling. I'm pleased to hear I don't have to rip it all apart again!
@@user-cz3bf6cb4c So the end of this wire is a 3 pin male connector or 4 pin? So I will be connecting the 2 radiator fans with a Y connector have a 4 pin female end..and then connect the g12 92 mm fan and the radiator fans to this 14 to 4 pin connector? Where do i connect the main pump fan though?
it's a pice of trash product, they don't even give you anything for the passive cooling of the VRM's or the VRAM'S, piece of trash is the more suitable name for it and not kraken G12, so i'll give it a more convenient name for it "Piiece of trash ghetto watercooling solution", mutch better than kraken g12, don't you think?
Nice job on the break down! I wanted to see how this bracket panned out for the 2000 series cards. I used a G12 NZXT bracket on my 1080 as well back in 2016 after noticing my stock MSI GTX 1080 hitting 83c under load. It now for the past 4 years idles at 27-28c and under 100% load never surpasses 45c. I was scared as hell to void my warrenty and DIY water cool it but hands down it was the absolute BEST decision I ever made well worth it.
I'm sitting here thinking about getting one for my GTX 1080 to try and get a little more performance out of it so I don't need a new GPU soon. Prices suck.
Hey, I was thinking about this for the last day and I came to a conclusion. In a gpu the hottest part is the cores, so if water cooled the temperatures will be fresher. the other components will be passive cooled and cooled by that little fan on the right. What I see people don't seem to get and my conclusion is that when you have the entire gpu making contact with the heat spreader in the usual cooling system graphics cards are when we buy them, all of them kind of share the heat produced by each component, while when they are all open they are not sharing so much heat from the cores and all the other components that where in indirect touch before. The heat in the case environment may get higher, which won't, but each component will stop being affected by the cores heat making them much fresher. So basically having this system is very good since all the heat from the gpu is being totally dissipated through the water cooler system and the other components will be fresher and passively cooling by the air flow in the case, which, obviously, depends on how good air flow you create in your case. If all the components are using the same platform to dissipate heat the temperature will always try to distribute heat among all of them until they get an average heat.
You can offset that by getting varying sizes of small heat sinks to contact the NZXT. Wont be as good for the memory as the original spreader but does the job quite well. Just use a ton of probes lol
One thing you forgot to note, many third party manufacturers have passive heat sinks on the VRM's, therefore the fan on the bracket will cool those vrams no problem.
Watch the video again. The brackets are over the bare exposed VRAMs. Which means these VRAMs around the gpu core are bare exposed without heatsinks and thermal pads. They are most likely already dead by now.
Absolutely perfect man. Really good call outs on the ribbon cables and coil whine. I noticed both of these during my install on my 2080. The coil whine is especially noticeable now. For reference I havr a 240mm aio on my 2080 in a Ghost S1 (bottom mounted top hat) and my temps max at 53C
Eric Fan He can use that cooler later though. I have a sub zero phase compressor cooling my FX (core temps under load at 1.7 Vcore are somewhere below 0c, it won’t show lower. Evan temp max is -35c and sits at -60f isle). However, that cooler will live a long happy life murdering components for years to come. I should probably put that on my Titan Xp, but I personally think Nvidia single GPUs are dog$hit and not worth wasting my time with, so I’ll just fry that worthless GPU on liquid nitrogen for wasting my time** **Nvidia drivers are crap, like seriously crap... my 4x crossfire in my main system is much more reliable than any Pascal I’ve tested, and Nvidia isn’t even that fast anymore since they limit you to 2x GPU anyways, so I guess they don’t like money from potential sales of 4x Titan RTX... Oh well, probably not worth it considering how bad the drivers usually are... I even tried it on Linux, and installing the graphics drivers corrupted the OS... like how the hell do you corrupt a server OS from a graphics driver?!? Radeon is always the obvious choice for Linux, but my goodness I didn’t think it would be that bad! That’s even worse than it just crashing every 30 minutes at stock in Windows 10 for the first 6 months I owned it until they fixed the drivers for the Titan series... by then I already had given up on it and went back to my old 2x crossfire setup, and later upgraded to 4x (which is mind blowing good! 100 fps in Crysis 3 at 4k Ultra is unbelievably impressive until you actually play it, it’s insanely awesome, I’m so happy with my quad GPU setup!)
Noise levels is definitely why i'm considering putting my GPU under water - i didn't know about this kit so now that's something for me to consider; thanks for the great video!
Haha... boy, what a flashback... I did screw up an Nvidia Strix 980 Ti because of an issue I just noticed here in this video. I had applied just enough thermal paste in the center, a decent thick drop as I always did with CPUs and GPUs in the past, and somehow, after reassembling, the thermal compound managed to get outside of the GPU die and messed with the transistors surrounding the GPU, just as he did it in the minute 4:55, on the right side bracket... man. Seeing it hurts a lot. Think about it.. Some thermal compounds are metal-based, so yes, it has metal components to help dissipate the heat. Basically, by doing it, you are just provoking a short in your PCB. Hopefully his paste is not a GPU killer :D
Most paste is not. You should be fine. That said, you can still clean it off with high-grade Iso and a microfiber. Worth doing. Make sure to get no fibers into the paste. Basically: just clean and re-paste.
Just did this on my system! Kind of a pain to install and I think I over tightened it because the graphics card has a slight bend in the card at the mount but it works perfectly fine. Also need to get something to support the card as now it has really bad card sag, I've got something to to work temporarily but I need something long term. I have a pretty small case so I don't have much room but I'll figure something out. If you're thinking about doing this absolutely do it!! Well worth the $200!! Now my AIO cooled cpu and gpu even overclocked don't run hotter than 41C even with anything you can throw at it! Wish the new corsair AIO's still worked for this setup because my corsair software doesn't recognize my cpu AIO now and I can't control it, but the NZXT software works just fine. Thank you for this video! Also if you do this project it takes probably 6 hours or more from start to finish to really button everything up and make it look good. And watch out for the hidden screw underneath the warranty label lol!
@@Souscheff last year when I posted this my card was still a very good card. I am thinking about upgrading soon. And I’ll also get that card water cooled as well. Just makes everything 10X better more stable over clocks and barely any noise while gaming. Totally worth it and I’m still happy I did it to my 2080ti. That card has paid for itself while mining was going crazy last year. Plus it still plays any game in ultra and 4K.
Nice video! I use the G12 with 2x120mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 and 1x92mm Noctua NF-B9. And i can highly recommend this! Super low noise. Best regards from germany.
Really need to compare against a good air cooler solution, like a 3 slot 3 fan card that is great out of the box. This card is very expensive and doing this mod could risk warranty. Plus a bracket + AIO is even more money that could have been put towards a better card in the first place. When the gain is less than a few percent, it is still worth it?
My first 2080ti FE failed (after a week) and I had to get a replacement (is working fine still). I had EK blocked it, liquid metalled it, lost some of the small thermal pads. I put it back together best I could - there were no quibbles from NVIDIA.
@@xalderin3838 He's saying the gain is less than a few percent is it worth it. I bet this AIO + 2080ti is still cheaper than a Titan and probably nothing in it performance wise, hell with this AIO you could prob OC it beyond a Titan.
my 1080ti broke with this kit in a year. bad cooling memory power etc. no backplate. gpu thought it was cool and overclock itself until other components die. Kraken G12 -40c and -1000dollars
thanks for posting this- I was thinking of getting it for my 1080ti. I don't think my temps are horrible... max of 75 when its hot out and usually around 65-70 when it's cooler. I live in Canada and its +40C in the summer and -40C in the winter.
@@MrBenthefirst the fact is that the 1080ticard has few temperature sensors to detect these problems. you may pay attention to raijintek morpheus (2). this radiator is able to cool the server processor. for a complete set you will need to get radiators for all memory and power and high-quality thermal pads. highly recommend but it takes a lot of space 6 slots
I just converted my 2080TI (Windforce OC 11GB) to this config with an X62 cooler. I managed to use some small nuts and bolts to keep the backplate on. I also added a temp sensor under the backplate to control the fan on the G12. I have it ramp up fast if I start gaming or such. Only thing I didn't like about this bracket is you need to be really careful with how much you tighten the cooler hold down screws, it's easy to get the cooler plate not sitting flat on the GPU. Don't over tighten, just ensure everything is even. Inspect to ensure the cooling plate is sitting flat. Too little thermal compound can cause issues, but too much and this will have a hard time pushing out the extra and again not sit flat. Good recommendations in the video. Edit: I'm running a BIOS on the 2080 TI that gives me 140% over power and this handles that without issue. Gets to about 60C in a silent mode.
Just an update, I ended up having to install a long heat-sink on the MOSFET IC's for the front most VRM. It doesn't get much if any air and was tripping thermal limits and shutting down. It would stay running stock, anything over 100% and it would trip. Works just fine now with a heat-sink. Just something people should keep in mind much as this video mentioned.
More updates. I abandoned the G12 for a Bitspower Lotan waterblock, EK Res, EK D5 pump, EK 280 and 360mm SE radiators and EK Velocity CPU block. I gave up on the G12 because it was just letting the VRM's run too hot, the memory was also too hot. I wasn't able to OC the memory beyond 650 Mhz and now I can get 1000 without issues. The backplate was hitting 65C before and now it's hitting 45C tops. Cooling of the GPU chip isn't much different really, I run around 38- 40C @ 2070 Mhz + 1000 on the RAM under a sustained load. The G12 did just a little worse then this but not too much so.
@@rmmm329 They should be OK, not sure if you noticed the post I added mentioning that I switched over to a full water block. Still using the same config. Skipping this generation of cards.
The Kraken x62's fan curve can be adjusted to the GPU's temperature with cam (nzxt's software). You can also use a thermal sensor (pasted to the gpu) and adjust the AIO fan curve to the thermal sensor in the bios (a lot of mother board support 2 pin thermal sensor).
if you are thinking about spending that much, you should really consider cooling it using an open loop, rather than an aio. It will cost a little more, but it will look nicer and have better cooling.
I know this is a late answer, perhaps it will still be of use to you. I put a Thermaltake Water 240mm AIO on a Radeon VII. To do so I had to drill my own holes in the AIO's S2066 bracket. I have the fans controlled by BIOS in the "medium" settting, they are not very audible. The VII runs Caffe or Tensorflow under ROCm/Linux at 1801 MHz flat out, stock settings, and the edge temp never exceeds 55C. Under Windows I have overclocked it to 2GHz GPU and 1100 MHz HBM2 with 5% over power limit, I suspect it can go further but I don't have any games that really need the boost so I have not pushed it harder.
Hey great videos! Quick question could a Ghost S1 handle a A kraken G12 on the GPU side with a 120mm NZXT AIO solution and then a 120mm AIO solution for the CPU in a top hat or 3 medium hats ? crazy ?
Did you mounted additional VRAM heatsinks or vents on the left side? And did you removed the baseplate? Just ordered the G12 for the same card. Thanks for the reply.
Tadej Toplak Heyo. No need to remove the baseplate. That baseplate acts as an additional heatsink so be sure to keep it on. I didn’t use VRM heatsinks for the left side. Instead i mounted a 90mm noctua fan (using a pci fan mount) that blows on that portion of the card. Works like a charm and have high stable OC’s. Here’s a link to the fan mount. Super simple. Highly suggest doing this vs heatsinks. That’s just my opinion of course. PCI Slot Bracket Three Fan Rack Mount Set for VGA Video Card Cooling www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9JSBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZBdj6Bpu4owAb
@@djwats7 can you send me a picture of how you have it all setup? I'm going to add G12, replace the stock fan with a noctua fan, it's the same card too.
@@nicov9356 Not really. The larger AIO allows for much more dissipation of heat. The more dissipation of heat, the less the fans have to spin up. The less the fans have to spin up, the less noise. But, in near every scenario, a nice tempered glass case makes any and every argument about noise more or less moot.
Currently using the G12 on my 1080Ti SLi setup. Temps never reached 52c in an ambient of 36c. Ever since then, never looked at other option to cool my gpu. Shout out from Malaysia.
Change Fans for Noctua ones, much more silent and better performance. Also, when using a 120mm Radiator, there are adaptors to 140mm Fans. Again, bigger Fan, slower spin speed, much more silent than before. And for Vibration-Issues, there are rubber seals that improve airflow and dampen vibration noises. THAT is the true Power of ANY Water-Cooling but especally AIO . . You are much more flexible in the components you use for it.
I see this is an old video but speedfan 4.52 is a great application to correlate GPU temps and chassis fans if needed. It's not the most user-friendly but once you figure it out it's pretty great.
I had an internal freak out when you said you had to use the AMD mounting hardware. Be careful to anyone who does this don't overtighten it or you might crack the GPU die.
Huh. All the X-series AIO coolers I've used have a built-in fan controller that sends a PWM signal based on coolant temperature; the fan control issue you describe didn't exist if you fitted it according to the instructions. Did they remove that feature in recent versions?
When you get your 100k play button you should build a pc and use the plaque as a window. So you can have an awesome pc with your 100k plaque as the window
A note: You only need to remove the screws on the back of the card, and two of the IO shield screws to access the PCB. You then only need to remove the tiny standoffs and the card will pull away from the cooler. No need to completely remove the IO shield. About the G12: I can tell you from personal experience: No, it's not worth it in my opinion. You are far better off getting a full cover water block for the GPU, and if open loops scare you, get one of the full cover blocks from Alphacool that attaches to an AIO like system. And with the G12 you have to be EXTREMELY careful mounting the cooler to the card as it's direct-die cooling. No IHS to protect the GPU die from chips or cracks. I lost a GPU to a chipped die from one of these back in the day. A full cover water block also provides more adequate VRM and VRAM cooling (better performance for overclocking); And if any sort of custom cooling isn't your thing, you can always buy a 2080 Ti hybrid card
"No, it's not worth it in my opinion. You are far better off getting a full cover water block for the GPU" - But a full cover water block alone costs more than the whole build here. Then you have to pay for the pump and the accessories. Take a look at the costs too.
@@jantube358 I explained there are alternatives. Like the Alphacool full cover AIO series. You can also try and nab a hybrid card instead of a regular card from the get go. Sure it's cheap, but IMO it's not worth the risk.
@@JulianUccetta I get what you mean but think about the price again: The Alphacool full cover AIO costs around 250€ here and is not compatible with "lower or mid tier" GPUs. Hybrid cards are very expensive like all GPUs at the moment. So if NZXT made a new version of the G12 for the 16XX and 30XX series GPUs it could be a bang for the buck.
@@jantube358 think about the cost and scarcity of an expensive GPU during these uncertain times. I'm not saying don't do it, but I've personally killed a GPU with one of these. It's a risky venture, and with the mounting mechanism it's even riskier than a full cover block. If you tighten one of the screws just a smidgen too much you'll have a cracked die on your hands. Not to mention the near lack of VRAM cooling which is unacceptable on RTX 30 series GPUs. If you had to go with this that's one thing to pay attention to - replace the sad excuse for a fan that NZXT includes with something better and get some decent VRAM heatsinks. None of those tiny 3 cent ones you can find all over Amazon. Yes, full cover blocks are more expensive. Yes the Alphacool block is more expensive. But consider the amount of money one puts into buying a GPU in today's market. Especially if they were forced to pay scalper prices. Is that investment not worth minimizing risk when water cooling it? Most people don't need to water cool their GPU. If cost is a factor after dropping $600 to $1100+ on a graphics card, then I'd implore one to just wait a bit longer and save up for a better alternative. This is a Frankensteins monster of a solution.
Why can’t corsair do something similar in the corsair one? I really love that case and as mentioned in your previous video it isn’t sold barebone because of the gpu cooling but I don’t see what stops them from making something similar as this...
Corsair is really careful with their products. Their customer support is really good. I had an AIO die on me last week and they are sending me a new one, new model. Since they don't make it anymore. I've used NZXT. Lazy products, horrible customer support.
@@sept09 same here. i know that it fits perfectly in the 2070s from gigabyte, but i saw on reddit that the 2070 non super with 2 fans needs some modding in the brackets to fit
What about all the external components around, that needed thermalpads that got cooled off from the heatsink? They now got no heatsink, and only some of them, are getting bare naked airflow now.
Great job with the apples to apples comparison starting at 08:25. This may seem obvious to some viewers, but the majority of hardware TH-camrs are nowhere close to you in terms of analytical rigor.
Are there any GPU AiO coolers that let you run it as a single slot? The biggest bonus to me with liquid cooling is running bifurcation in ITX cases. I'd love to see an AiO kit to make GPUs single slot instead of dual slot, but it always seems like the configuration is focused on dual slot.
The components just need airflow over them - even warm air will remove the hotter air being emitted by the components. Obviously direct flow over a heat sink is ideal, they're still fine with the indirect airflow of the Kraken setup. Besides, if you're still paranoid, just buy some individual component sized heatsinks and attach those to each component, they'll take the most advantage of even minimal indirect airflow.
@optimum Tech - I've got a very similar setup is the 75C for FE card including the undervolt from your previous video? I'm now the proud owner of a Ncase M1 with Dual AIO's cooling my 9700k and 2080 ti thanks to your videos! Keep them coming!
Mark Donkin I have to see how you set that up! I plan on building a new PC in an M1 when 4000ryzen and ampere drop, and handing down my 6700K, 1080ti build (s340 elite) to my brother. I would love to see how you were able to mount and fit the two radiators in your case!
I wouldn't say it was fine.. It was way too much considering how much was gooping out (And no the factory stuff was bad too) Also the fact that he mentioned Artic Silver being good was more points against him... It was good in 2005, there are much better things like Artic MX-4
NZXT CAM software lets you tie motherboard fan headers to GPU or CPU temps. Thats how i have my G12 set up so the VRM cooler is ramping on my definied curve based on the GPU temp, all working great. Good video sir.
Is there anyway we can get some sort of adapter for the ribbon strip to the AIO/fans?? Would love to know, if it exists as I'm literally about to tear down my 2080 ti abd do this mod
Simple solution to coil whine.. Get better quality fans that are designed for use with radiators unlike the ones they provided which looked like off the shelf exhaust fans meant for high air speed and not high pressure. Also I see an issue as the VRAM is no longer being cooled in any way with the pads which helped disperse the heat to the plate are left to the open air.
Maybe no one will ever need or see this, but if you install a g12 on a card that needs more airflow to the die side, without the included fan, here's what you do.. 1. Buy a 92mm noctua slim fan 2. Remove the pci slot cover directly below your gpu 3. drill a couple 1/8" holes in the slot cover, ~95mm apart 4. use (4) 5" zip ties in a square to secure the fan to the pci slot cover. trim excess off the zip ties 5. put slot cover and fan back into pc and setup the fan in whatever you're using for controller software
I have the RTX 2070 Super FE does this use the ribbon cable as well? Or does it use the 4 pin? Also, how much taller is this setup than the stock card? I have a micro atx case not sure if I have the room to fit the kraken g12 with a radiator and fans below it. (corsair crystal 280x)
I'd love to know if there's any feasable way to cram this under the GPU in an M1. I've been considering building a custom GPU loop with a low profile radiator, but honestly I don't want to go through the trouble and I'd highly prefer to use an AIO. I've considered using two 120m Kraken (CPU/GPU) but I'd love to find a way to rig in two 240s
You're wrong about fan control. NZXT CAM software, allows you to select what the AIO is cooling. as long as its plugged into the USB header on the MOBO.
This bracket actually broke my 980ti. It worked for two hours, after the foam blocks got squished and put uneven pressure on the die and cracked it. I asked NZXT and they said a "the bracket had no capability to break a GPU because it was just that, a bracket." So I asked them why did the Amazon page claim the bracket itself, increased cooling up to 40%. He didn't respond to that, instead told me the bracket couldn't do this or that. I've delided a 6700K I'm still using with a 22% overclock on it. DIY isn't something new for me. Note, I never asked for a refund or reambursment, I just literally said that should use a better mounting solution that doesn't rely on cheap foam. I also knew a guy who had a Kraken pump, it died after 2 years. They didn't want to replace it. Don't know the story there. He also said the customer service was terrible. I have a 2070 super now. Great card.
I had an x52 go bad on me after three years. They asked me a few questions, then issued a replacement which arrived a day later. My customer service experience was great.
Hi, nice video, thanks! Question, is there no way at all to use the temperature on the GPU to control the fans? I.e. to connect the fans to the GPU instead of the motherboard? I see other GTX2080's do have this option by using a GPU Fan adapter... Has anyone had any success with this on this particular card?
is the NZXT Kraken G12 compatible with a smaller AiO cooler from Corsair? Or does it require the use of only NZXT AiO? I saw you had a corsair, was that a H60?
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pZbsSDRrmXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Overclock your 100k sub plaque when you recieve it
100k MHz
make a custom case out of it.
insert gpu here
Nearly 200k at the end of Jan 2020.
check my gtx980 results: th-cam.com/video/EeNCpdQ9pm0/w-d-xo.html
Note that mounting pressure matters a lot! On the first try I got 30-35 degree water temperature and 50-55 degree GPU temperature.
After reseating the cooler and properly tightening the screws (but not overtightening!) the GPU temperature dropped 10 degrees.
Floris Buwalda Hmmm, I’m running a MSI Gaming X GTX 1080 Ti, NZXT Kraken X61 w/the Kraken G12 and swapped the X61’s stock fans for Corsair’s ML140s. My idle temp is 40C but it’ll ramp up to anywhere between 65C and 75C when playing a game at 4K that’s really pushing the card. At 60C my my fan speeds at ~55% @ ~1200RPMs. While sitting here letting Unigine Heaven run it’s Extreme preset, it doesn’t go above 63C. My GPU clock is at 2,000MHz, and my Memory is clocked at 5805MHz.
My OC settings in MSI Afterburner are:
+100 Core Voltage
117% Power Limit
75C Temp Limit
+50 Core Clock
+250 Memory Clock
Custom Fan speed
40C - 25%
45C - 30%
50C - 35%
55C - 40%
60C - 50%
65C - 65%
70C - 100%
@@DJHeroMasta well that's because you've unnecessarily maxed out the voltage instead of maxing the power limit and temp limit(I doubt 117% and 75c are the max) and only achieved a measly overclock of +50 to the core clock while adding +100 to the core voltage. That's just unnecessary. +50 should be doable on stock voltage.
@@miniweeddeerz1820 Yeah, I've since realized that the Voltage OC was unecessary. I had forgotten that this "Gaming X" card is pre-overclocked. I now just run the card stock and my temps are back to normal. And that +50MHz makes my card run at 2101MHz.
@@DJHeroMasta I would try push it harder. +50mhz core even in a ore overclocked card does not mean much because any factory overclocks are basically redundant because Nvidia GPU boost technology surpasses any official clocks of any Nvidia GPU, aftermarket or not.
@@miniweeddeerz1820 You think I can push this GTX 1080 Ti past 2.1GHz on an AIO with it's default power delivery and BIOS? I don't think so. Nothing is stable past 2.1 for me even when I had the voltage maxed out. I don't have any headers connected to the main board either so there isn't any power draw from fans.
grats on 100k been here since tempered glass side panel for ncase video
Thanks and wow! That was a long time ago!
Could you try this with a 5700xt? I'm curious to see how it will react.
Also waiting for this. I'm not preparing to pay £200+ for ekwb custom water loop!!
Darnell Estephane I'm pretty sure the g12 is incompatible with the 5700 and 5700 XT
@@ready1player31 Maybe it's compatible with the nVidia Block...
If its compatible with r9 290x and r9 390x, it should be compatible with both rx 5700 and rx 5700xt
@@ready1player31 its compatible
Would love to see a new one on the 3000 series gpus! Keep up the good work
Second this
@@NodmadTroy Officially not compatible with the new GPUs
I used to run a Kraken G12 on a EVGA 1080ti ftw3. Kept the core temps below 36c but memory temps and vram temps were higher than with the original cooler.
It's because some vrm heatsinks sould be bought along with the g12..you watercool the gpu but remove most of the airflow and dissipation from the vrm..if you have a baseplate would be smart to leave that on if possible or buy some heatsinks with thermal tape
the 1080ti FTW3 is spread out alot further than the 2080ti, i just upgraded from the former to the latter
@@enricod.7198 ik this a year ago, but could you link me some on amazon Spain? (Amazon.es) I can't find any
Could you please revisit this on the 3080?!
Interested in a 3080/3090 revist for this mod...I've seen one for a ventus 3080 which required new holes to be drilled on the g12 but the results were inspiring...
Would be good to know if this would make a 3080 into a 2 slot dimension so it can fit in a DAN A4. Ultimate cooling in SFF if it takes a 2+ slot card into 2.
It's not a viable solution because you can't cool the left side of the VRM properly.
Idk if that would work cause the g12 is made for the 10 series
And 6800xt please
If you plug the fans into the AIO headers you can use CAM to tie to the GPU temps and it will default to water temp of AIO without
Love my G12. GPU AIOs are highly underrated, so much better than stock coolers. CPU water cooling is highly overrated.
Lol, my PC is literally this. I got my Kraken G12 and a Noctua D15.
I put a G12 on an MSI Armor 1080ti and it made a world of difference. The G12 is definitely a worthy investment.
Depends on the card. The armor is intended for water cooling (cooling solution that was adequate for something like a 1060)
@@tommyboy5924 lets not say intened, but cheaper
@@md-im8qp they put the cooling system of a 1060 on a 1080 and 1080ti so that it was a bit cheaper (people go the WC could care less about stock temps). It was intended, no ifs or buts about it...
@@md-im8qp th-cam.com/video/BNQtfNFCWa8/w-d-xo.html
Here you go kiddo, now fuck off
@@tommyboy5924 ok angery snowflake, instead of going like kiddo or shit like that, first, waterblock-gpu's exist. like aorus waterforce extreme. opening a pre waterblocked gpu is complely useless considering changing the thermalpaste on gpu's dont make much sense, even liquid metal cant make a difference more than a degree. if you wanna use the word intended, you can use it for the aorus card, not this. Infact, I know lots of people who just went with a ventus 2080 Ti / armour 1080 ti just because it was the cheapest. now you can fuck off, imagine getting pissed about this. say hi to your mother for mr if you decide get the fuck out of the basement, asshole.
one thing to note, you really need to test the gpu frame timing before/after the application.
its nice to have mhz bump, but if the frame pacing is better, that is way more valuable irl.
Alan Xu Yes!
Not really sure what you mean there. Is 7:05 what you're after?
@@optimumtech great video for the record dont get me wrong ! and awesome work lately for your videos, dude you have the sickest B-roll amongst all the tech channels !!
ok i mean a graph like th-cam.com/video/W3ehmETMOmw/w-d-xo.html this one.
at the end of the day, frame rate and the boost clock speed might be the same/similar, but frame timing can be really different from time to time, and that is what ultimately matters.
i would much prefer a steady 100fps than 180 all over the place fps.
simply FPS is measured every second, and 1 second nowadays is just too long to be precise enough.
@@optimumtech frame time is a graph measuring the frame in milliseconds. It's available in afterburner
@@_DeadEnd_ Obviously I know what a frame time is, just watch any of my GPU reviews.
The question was why it matters.
If the GPU is faster, it's faster.
Reducing the GPU temp doesn't sporadically make it stutter (or the inverse) in normal gaming scenarios.
Ive been using the G12 on my 1080ti for about a month or so now, and my temps have not gotten over 40°C. Its great.
Do you have a pretty heavy undervolt or something? or is it a 240 aio?
C F it’s a 240mm aio
Evga hybrid by default is an 120 aio and runs 45-52°C. I have one. Nice to hear that these temps can be achieved with a 240. 💪🏻
At 4k gaming. With a new noctua fan. The stock one is shiat xD
@@rocketracer111 40°C is when I'm bench-marking in 1440p and overclocked, with no overclock it stays around 32-38 depending on the game 😁
Thank you for this. I fitted a G12 to my 2080Ti and have been trying to decide whether I should add VRM cooling. I'm pleased to hear I don't have to rip it all apart again!
hi,have you cooled you vrms? i am having very hard time trying to find something safe to use in that.
@@zosto5321 did you find anything for the vram?
There's actually an adapter for that 14 pin to 4 pin connection, so u can connect the fans directly to the gpu
Hi
Where can this be purchased from in the UK?
@@PandorusFightStick this is the only place I could find it : www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/nv-14-pin-adapter.html
@@user-cz3bf6cb4c perfect mate !!! Gonna do this
@@user-cz3bf6cb4c So the end of this wire is a 3 pin male connector or 4 pin? So I will be connecting the 2 radiator fans with a Y connector have a 4 pin female end..and then connect the g12 92 mm fan and the radiator fans to this 14 to 4 pin connector? Where do i connect the main pump fan though?
it's a pice of trash product, they don't even give you anything for the passive cooling of the VRM's or the VRAM'S, piece of trash is the more suitable name for it and not kraken G12, so i'll give it a more convenient name for it "Piiece of trash ghetto watercooling solution", mutch better than kraken g12, don't you think?
love how it switches back and forth from a corsair block to the nzxt and back again.
I bet this channel is gonna blow up with subscribers considering the simplicity yet the quality of the videos. 😊
SO PROUD of the 100K :'')
More power to you 🔥
Nice job on the break down! I wanted to see how this bracket panned out for the 2000 series cards. I used a G12 NZXT bracket on my 1080 as well back in 2016 after noticing my stock MSI GTX 1080 hitting 83c under load. It now for the past 4 years idles at 27-28c and under 100% load never surpasses 45c. I was scared as hell to void my warrenty and DIY water cool it but hands down it was the absolute BEST decision I ever made well worth it.
I'm sitting here thinking about getting one for my GTX 1080 to try and get a little more performance out of it so I don't need a new GPU soon. Prices suck.
@@Slepnair I’d recommend it at your own risk of course.
Congrats on 100k subs "Double B King".
-Bicep and B-Roll King.
Lmao!
Hey, I was thinking about this for the last day and I came to a conclusion. In a gpu the hottest part is the cores, so if water cooled the temperatures will be fresher. the other components will be passive cooled and cooled by that little fan on the right. What I see people don't seem to get and my conclusion is that when you have the entire gpu making contact with the heat spreader in the usual cooling system graphics cards are when we buy them, all of them kind of share the heat produced by each component, while when they are all open they are not sharing so much heat from the cores and all the other components that where in indirect touch before. The heat in the case environment may get higher, which won't, but each component will stop being affected by the cores heat making them much fresher. So basically having this system is very good since all the heat from the gpu is being totally dissipated through the water cooler system and the other components will be fresher and passively cooling by the air flow in the case, which, obviously, depends on how good air flow you create in your case. If all the components are using the same platform to dissipate heat the temperature will always try to distribute heat among all of them until they get an average heat.
You can offset that by getting varying sizes of small heat sinks to contact the NZXT. Wont be as good for the memory as the original spreader but does the job quite well. Just use a ton of probes lol
@@vanillagerrilla wow, hello there ahah it's been a hot minute ahahahah
wait at 5:02 one second its a corsair and then its a nzxt aio. what in the hell did i jus winess
Cutting error
fake news, scam channel
If you watched till the end of the video you would realize that he tested both AIOs.
I think the corsair is the 120
I have done this to my EVGA RTX 2070 xc and it works
One thing you forgot to note, many third party manufacturers have passive heat sinks on the VRM's, therefore the fan on the bracket will cool those vrams no problem.
Watch the video again. The brackets are over the bare exposed VRAMs. Which means these VRAMs around the gpu core are bare exposed without heatsinks and thermal pads. They are most likely already dead by now.
Absolutely perfect man. Really good call outs on the ribbon cables and coil whine. I noticed both of these during my install on my 2080. The coil whine is especially noticeable now. For reference I havr a 240mm aio on my 2080 in a Ghost S1 (bottom mounted top hat) and my temps max at 53C
Congratulations on 100k ! Great vid as always :)
My RX 470 "Morpheus Edition"
60°C
1000RPM
1300MHz
@@tacowang Absolutely.
I have the Sapphire Nitro+ RX 580 4GB (Stock cooler)
68°C
1500RPM
1440mHz
Eric Fan He can use that cooler later though. I have a sub zero phase compressor cooling my FX (core temps under load at 1.7 Vcore are somewhere below 0c, it won’t show lower. Evan temp max is -35c and sits at -60f isle). However, that cooler will live a long happy life murdering components for years to come. I should probably put that on my Titan Xp, but I personally think Nvidia single GPUs are dog$hit and not worth wasting my time with, so I’ll just fry that worthless GPU on liquid nitrogen for wasting my time**
**Nvidia drivers are crap, like seriously crap... my 4x crossfire in my main system is much more reliable than any Pascal I’ve tested, and Nvidia isn’t even that fast anymore since they limit you to 2x GPU anyways, so I guess they don’t like money from potential sales of 4x Titan RTX... Oh well, probably not worth it considering how bad the drivers usually are... I even tried it on Linux, and installing the graphics drivers corrupted the OS... like how the hell do you corrupt a server OS from a graphics driver?!? Radeon is always the obvious choice for Linux, but my goodness I didn’t think it would be that bad! That’s even worse than it just crashing every 30 minutes at stock in Windows 10 for the first 6 months I owned it until they fixed the drivers for the Titan series... by then I already had given up on it and went back to my old 2x crossfire setup, and later upgraded to 4x (which is mind blowing good! 100 fps in Crysis 3 at 4k Ultra is unbelievably impressive until you actually play it, it’s insanely awesome, I’m so happy with my quad GPU setup!)
@@jakegarrett8109 Extreeeeeeeeme
Randomly refreshed my feed and there was a new Optimum Tech video... Why wouldn't have I clicked on it?
Kraken G12 Hybrid Cooling fit in a Ghost s1?
Maybe, I think it could fit.
Kevin TheScreenKiller No way, the pump block would we way too high with an NZXT radiator, but a slim corsair radiation block MIGHT fit?
Just need a low-profile pump block - the NZXT Kraken coolers won't fit
Optimum Tech pls make a build. Please. ;)
Noise levels is definitely why i'm considering putting my GPU under water - i didn't know about this kit so now that's something for me to consider; thanks for the great video!
Don't consider. Just do.
Congratulations on 100k! Been here since 70k.
Accelero III/IV next?
I’ve got the Accelero III on my 2080Ti and I’m a little underwhelmed with the temps
Thomas T how are they?
That's where having Corsair commander pro/Icue is good because you can just pair them to gpu temps and you're set.
pls make a Hybrid Build in the Ghost s1
Haha... boy, what a flashback...
I did screw up an Nvidia Strix 980 Ti because of an issue I just noticed here in this video.
I had applied just enough thermal paste in the center, a decent thick drop as I always did with CPUs and GPUs in the past, and somehow, after reassembling, the thermal compound managed to get outside of the GPU die and messed with the transistors surrounding the GPU, just as he did it in the minute 4:55, on the right side bracket... man. Seeing it hurts a lot.
Think about it.. Some thermal compounds are metal-based, so yes, it has metal components to help dissipate the heat. Basically, by doing it, you are just provoking a short in your PCB. Hopefully his paste is not a GPU killer :D
Most paste is not. You should be fine. That said, you can still clean it off with high-grade Iso and a microfiber. Worth doing. Make sure to get no fibers into the paste. Basically: just clean and re-paste.
@@MoonRegolith Agree
I love this setup, but I have a hard time justifying it when I'd like to build in a mITX case. Any chance you can stuff this setup into your M1?
Yes you can I’ve done just use 120mm rads maybe even slightly bigger but personally that’s pointless for me
Yes you can I’ve done just use 120mm rads maybe even slightly bigger but personally that’s pointless for me
Yes you can I’ve done just use 120mm rads maybe even slightly bigger but personally that’s pointless for me
Just did this on my system! Kind of a pain to install and I think I over tightened it because the graphics card has a slight bend in the card at the mount but it works perfectly fine. Also need to get something to support the card as now it has really bad card sag, I've got something to to work temporarily but I need something long term. I have a pretty small case so I don't have much room but I'll figure something out. If you're thinking about doing this absolutely do it!! Well worth the $200!! Now my AIO cooled cpu and gpu even overclocked don't run hotter than 41C even with anything you can throw at it! Wish the new corsair AIO's still worked for this setup because my corsair software doesn't recognize my cpu AIO now and I can't control it, but the NZXT software works just fine. Thank you for this video! Also if you do this project it takes probably 6 hours or more from start to finish to really button everything up and make it look good. And watch out for the hidden screw underneath the warranty label lol!
@@Souscheff last year when I posted this my card was still a very good card. I am thinking about upgrading soon. And I’ll also get that card water cooled as well. Just makes everything 10X better more stable over clocks and barely any noise while gaming. Totally worth it and I’m still happy I did it to my 2080ti. That card has paid for itself while mining was going crazy last year. Plus it still plays any game in ultra and 4K.
Nice video! I use the G12 with 2x120mm be quiet! Silent Wings 3 and 1x92mm Noctua NF-B9. And i can highly recommend this! Super low noise. Best regards from germany.
hey Markus
good to know that !
what RPM are you using for both 120mm and 92mm fan ?
best regards from france.
Really need to compare against a good air cooler solution, like a 3 slot 3 fan card that is great out of the box. This card is very expensive and doing this mod could risk warranty. Plus a bracket + AIO is even more money that could have been put towards a better card in the first place. When the gain is less than a few percent, it is still worth it?
My first 2080ti FE failed (after a week) and I had to get a replacement (is working fine still). I had EK blocked it, liquid metalled it, lost some of the small thermal pads. I put it back together best I could - there were no quibbles from NVIDIA.
What card is better than a 2080ti?
@@steviewonder0850 RTX Titan?
@@xalderin3838 He's saying the gain is less than a few percent is it worth it. I bet this AIO + 2080ti is still cheaper than a Titan and probably nothing in it performance wise, hell with this AIO you could prob OC it beyond a Titan.
my 1080ti broke with this kit in a year. bad cooling memory power etc. no backplate. gpu thought it was cool and overclock itself until other components die. Kraken G12 -40c and -1000dollars
thanks for posting this- I was thinking of getting it for my 1080ti. I don't think my temps are horrible... max of 75 when its hot out and usually around 65-70 when it's cooler. I live in Canada and its +40C in the summer and -40C in the winter.
@@MrBenthefirst the fact is that the 1080ticard has few temperature sensors to detect these problems. you may pay attention to raijintek morpheus (2). this radiator is able to cool the server processor. for a complete set you will need to get radiators for all memory and power and high-quality thermal pads. highly recommend but it takes a lot of space 6 slots
I just converted my 2080TI (Windforce OC 11GB) to this config with an X62 cooler. I managed to use some small nuts and bolts to keep the backplate on. I also added a temp sensor under the backplate to control the fan on the G12. I have it ramp up fast if I start gaming or such. Only thing I didn't like about this bracket is you need to be really careful with how much you tighten the cooler hold down screws, it's easy to get the cooler plate not sitting flat on the GPU. Don't over tighten, just ensure everything is even. Inspect to ensure the cooling plate is sitting flat. Too little thermal compound can cause issues, but too much and this will have a hard time pushing out the extra and again not sit flat. Good recommendations in the video.
Edit: I'm running a BIOS on the 2080 TI that gives me 140% over power and this handles that without issue. Gets to about 60C in a silent mode.
Just an update, I ended up having to install a long heat-sink on the MOSFET IC's for the front most VRM. It doesn't get much if any air and was tripping thermal limits and shutting down. It would stay running stock, anything over 100% and it would trip. Works just fine now with a heat-sink. Just something people should keep in mind much as this video mentioned.
More updates. I abandoned the G12 for a Bitspower Lotan waterblock, EK Res, EK D5 pump, EK 280 and 360mm SE radiators and EK Velocity CPU block. I gave up on the G12 because it was just letting the VRM's run too hot, the memory was also too hot. I wasn't able to OC the memory beyond 650 Mhz and now I can get 1000 without issues. The backplate was hitting 65C before and now it's hitting 45C tops. Cooling of the GPU chip isn't much different really, I run around 38- 40C @ 2070 Mhz + 1000 on the RAM under a sustained load. The G12 did just a little worse then this but not too much so.
You think the vrms are okay if I’m not over locking my memory? I just installed this on my 2080ti
@@rmmm329 They should be OK, not sure if you noticed the post I added mentioning that I switched over to a full water block. Still using the same config. Skipping this generation of cards.
NV 14-pin Adapter - Cable. Thats the cable u needed to control the fan with the graphics card
Is it a 3 pin or 4 pin?
@@AG-sk5pv 4 pin
Strongly wanting this. My 2080TI FE been dealing with thermal issues lately.
Thanks for the helpful video!!
Great video ! I love your camera rolls, they look so nice! Thanks for all your great content on your channel!
Glad you enjoyed!
The Kraken x62's fan curve can be adjusted to the GPU's temperature with cam (nzxt's software).
You can also use a thermal sensor (pasted to the gpu) and adjust the AIO fan curve to the thermal sensor in the bios (a lot of mother board support 2 pin thermal sensor).
What do you think about Aorus 2080ti waterforce with 240mm AIO ?
if you are thinking about spending that much, you should really consider cooling it using an open loop, rather than an aio. It will cost a little more, but it will look nicer and have better cooling.
you can do this and still make the fans monitor the GPU core using FanControl.
Great piece, great results!
I'd LOVE to see RadVII tested with the Kraken setup as well, I'm quite curious about that combo.
why? the card is abandoned by amd now. not made anymore.
I know this is a late answer, perhaps it will still be of use to you. I put a Thermaltake Water 240mm AIO on a Radeon VII. To do so I had to drill my own holes in the AIO's S2066 bracket. I have the fans controlled by BIOS in the "medium" settting, they are not very audible. The VII runs Caffe or Tensorflow under ROCm/Linux at 1801 MHz flat out, stock settings, and the edge temp never exceeds 55C. Under Windows I have overclocked it to 2GHz GPU and 1100 MHz HBM2 with 5% over power limit, I suspect it can go further but I don't have any games that really need the boost so I have not pushed it harder.
Hey, old video but what did you use to mount the corsair AIO?
G12+ H55?
Did you have to buy any other brackets?
What about cooling the memory and vrm ?
Hey great videos! Quick question could a Ghost S1 handle a A kraken G12 on the GPU side with a 120mm NZXT AIO solution and then a 120mm AIO solution for the CPU in a top hat or 3 medium hats ? crazy ?
how to cool down the VRM
????
Get 2 packs of these @ www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mdkagent0075 Do you need a fan along with these?
I installed the G12 on my EVGA XC 2080ti. Works like a charm.
Did you mounted additional VRAM heatsinks or vents on the left side? And did you removed the baseplate? Just ordered the G12 for the same card. Thanks for the reply.
Tadej Toplak Heyo. No need to remove the baseplate. That baseplate acts as an additional heatsink so be sure to keep it on. I didn’t use VRM heatsinks for the left side. Instead i mounted a 90mm noctua fan (using a pci fan mount) that blows on that portion of the card. Works like a charm and have high stable OC’s.
Here’s a link to the fan mount. Super simple. Highly suggest doing this vs heatsinks. That’s just my opinion of course.
PCI Slot Bracket Three Fan Rack Mount Set for VGA Video Card Cooling www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9JSBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZBdj6Bpu4owAb
@@djwats7 can you send me a picture of how you have it all setup? I'm going to add G12, replace the stock fan with a noctua fan, it's the same card too.
A G Hey dude. Hope this helps.
imgur.com/gallery/DCUBQUe
Tom Taylor heyo. My first reply has an amazon link to what I used. It’s just a small bracket. I hope that answers your question.
Awesome video ! When I upgrade one day I'll go overkill cooling for my GPU, using a 360 Aio. I prefer lower temperatures and silence.
They might make the card cooler, but having more fans will make it louder
@@nicov9356 Not really. The larger AIO allows for much more dissipation of heat. The more dissipation of heat, the less the fans have to spin up. The less the fans have to spin up, the less noise. But, in near every scenario, a nice tempered glass case makes any and every argument about noise more or less moot.
Currently using the G12 on my 1080Ti SLi setup. Temps never reached 52c in an ambient of 36c. Ever since then, never looked at other option to cool my gpu. Shout out from Malaysia.
omfg
Change Fans for Noctua ones, much more silent and better performance.
Also, when using a 120mm Radiator, there are adaptors to 140mm Fans.
Again, bigger Fan, slower spin speed, much more silent than before.
And for Vibration-Issues, there are rubber seals that improve airflow and dampen vibration noises.
THAT is the true Power of ANY Water-Cooling but especally AIO . .
You are much more flexible in the components you use for it.
I see this is an old video but speedfan 4.52 is a great application to correlate GPU temps and chassis fans if needed. It's not the most user-friendly but once you figure it out it's pretty great.
I've use very small heatsinks on memory and VRM.
Can you post a picture?
@@hombresdecultura You probably already found this or at least your answer but th-cam.com/video/jyqvKWBZS8Q/w-d-xo.html
Depending on your bios you can link the GPU temps to the particular fan header on your bios thus getting accelerated cooling on higher temps.
I had an internal freak out when you said you had to use the AMD mounting hardware. Be careful to anyone who does this don't overtighten it or you might crack the GPU die.
I’m about to do this in 2024, thanks for the info! Glad I can still have the backplate mounted (it looks so nice in my system)
When I did this on my 980 ti, I added copper fins on thermal pads to my vrms.
Great idea!
you can make the kraken run with the gpu temp via the CAM software from NZXT
I waited to see if the 2080ti is compatible with the kraken g12...THANKS!!
Same, I was surprised that no one made this video before. Great video
Huh. All the X-series AIO coolers I've used have a built-in fan controller that sends a PWM signal based on coolant temperature; the fan control issue you describe didn't exist if you fitted it according to the instructions. Did they remove that feature in recent versions?
When you get your 100k play button you should build a pc and use the plaque as a window. So you can have an awesome pc with your 100k plaque as the window
A note: You only need to remove the screws on the back of the card, and two of the IO shield screws to access the PCB. You then only need to remove the tiny standoffs and the card will pull away from the cooler. No need to completely remove the IO shield.
About the G12: I can tell you from personal experience: No, it's not worth it in my opinion. You are far better off getting a full cover water block for the GPU, and if open loops scare you, get one of the full cover blocks from Alphacool that attaches to an AIO like system. And with the G12 you have to be EXTREMELY careful mounting the cooler to the card as it's direct-die cooling. No IHS to protect the GPU die from chips or cracks. I lost a GPU to a chipped die from one of these back in the day. A full cover water block also provides more adequate VRM and VRAM cooling (better performance for overclocking); And if any sort of custom cooling isn't your thing, you can always buy a 2080 Ti hybrid card
"No, it's not worth it in my opinion. You are far better off getting a full cover water block for the GPU"
- But a full cover water block alone costs more than the whole build here. Then you have to pay for the pump and the accessories. Take a look at the costs too.
@@jantube358 I explained there are alternatives. Like the Alphacool full cover AIO series. You can also try and nab a hybrid card instead of a regular card from the get go.
Sure it's cheap, but IMO it's not worth the risk.
@@JulianUccetta I get what you mean but think about the price again: The Alphacool full cover AIO costs around 250€ here and is not compatible with "lower or mid tier" GPUs. Hybrid cards are very expensive like all GPUs at the moment. So if NZXT made a new version of the G12 for the 16XX and 30XX series GPUs it could be a bang for the buck.
@@jantube358 think about the cost and scarcity of an expensive GPU during these uncertain times. I'm not saying don't do it, but I've personally killed a GPU with one of these. It's a risky venture, and with the mounting mechanism it's even riskier than a full cover block. If you tighten one of the screws just a smidgen too much you'll have a cracked die on your hands. Not to mention the near lack of VRAM cooling which is unacceptable on RTX 30 series GPUs. If you had to go with this that's one thing to pay attention to - replace the sad excuse for a fan that NZXT includes with something better and get some decent VRAM heatsinks. None of those tiny 3 cent ones you can find all over Amazon.
Yes, full cover blocks are more expensive. Yes the Alphacool block is more expensive. But consider the amount of money one puts into buying a GPU in today's market. Especially if they were forced to pay scalper prices. Is that investment not worth minimizing risk when water cooling it?
Most people don't need to water cool their GPU. If cost is a factor after dropping $600 to $1100+ on a graphics card, then I'd implore one to just wait a bit longer and save up for a better alternative. This is a Frankensteins monster of a solution.
41 screws? Screw that! I'd rather have my loud fans.
Just found your channel.
Excellent information and delivery.
Liked and subscribed.
Thx for that bro.....really helpful!!!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Why can’t corsair do something similar in the corsair one? I really love that case and as mentioned in your previous video it isn’t sold barebone because of the gpu cooling but I don’t see what stops them from making something similar as this...
Corsair is really careful with their products. Their customer support is really good. I had an AIO die on me last week and they are sending me a new one, new model. Since they don't make it anymore.
I've used NZXT. Lazy products, horrible customer support.
Just to ally any fears I used this to watercool my rtx 2070. It does indeed use the AMD bracket.
Could you tell me which rtx 2070 you used?
I'm currently using the gigabyte rtx 2070 and I have my doubts on buying this.
@@sept09 same here. i know that it fits perfectly in the 2070s from gigabyte, but i saw on reddit that the 2070 non super with 2 fans needs some modding in the brackets to fit
What about all the external components around, that needed thermalpads that got cooled off from the heatsink? They now got no heatsink, and only some of them, are getting bare naked airflow now.
amazing quality as always, watching you since you were 1 hours on furmark and keep track on gpu temp and aio water temp pls.
not true. I run the g12 on my 1080ti and game for hours on end and my gpu hovers around 50C.
Great job with the apples to apples comparison starting at 08:25. This may seem obvious to some viewers, but the majority of hardware TH-camrs are nowhere close to you in terms of analytical rigor.
Can you put backplate back on?
Are there any GPU AiO coolers that let you run it as a single slot? The biggest bonus to me with liquid cooling is running bifurcation in ITX cases. I'd love to see an AiO kit to make GPUs single slot instead of dual slot, but it always seems like the configuration is focused on dual slot.
the only thing that kraken needs is a decent design (:
I 've heard that it doesn't work with longer cards because the fan can't cool the vrms....with shorter two fans cards I think it's a great upgrade
The components just need airflow over them - even warm air will remove the hotter air being emitted by the components. Obviously direct flow over a heat sink is ideal, they're still fine with the indirect airflow of the Kraken setup.
Besides, if you're still paranoid, just buy some individual component sized heatsinks and attach those to each component, they'll take the most advantage of even minimal indirect airflow.
Gotta give it to NVIDIA, these cards are gorgeous.
On all Krakens AIO there is an USB port on the pump, so you to use CAM software wich is allowing you to set the fan's RPM with the GPU temp.
I would be too scared to try water cooling, to me water cooling + expensive electronics = bad idea
WiseSilverWolf it’s closed loop, so rare to leak
@optimum Tech - I've got a very similar setup is the 75C for FE card including the undervolt from your previous video?
I'm now the proud owner of a Ncase M1 with Dual AIO's cooling my 9700k and 2080 ti thanks to your videos! Keep them coming!
Mark Donkin I have to see how you set that up! I plan on building a new PC in an M1 when 4000ryzen and ampere drop, and handing down my 6700K, 1080ti build (s340 elite) to my brother. I would love to see how you were able to mount and fit the two radiators in your case!
You ARE using way too much thermal compound...
4:28 lol, is the metallic piece in mounted on the BGA component !?
Thats a LOOOOOOOT of thermal paste breh
Your thermal paste application is fine, however we don’t have a way to cool the memory?
Love your videos. You give us the highest quality content.
full water cooling has tabs you stick on and it conducts through the copper plate
I wouldn't say it was fine.. It was way too much considering how much was gooping out (And no the factory stuff was bad too)
Also the fact that he mentioned Artic Silver being good was more points against him... It was good in 2005, there are much better things like Artic MX-4
@@SilvaDreams usually when you tighten things up the paste just squeezes out
@@SilvaDreams Artic MX-4 is still Artic Silver.
Ever tried a Karen G12? It has the power and rage of all anti vaccine moms.
NZXT CAM software lets you tie motherboard fan headers to GPU or CPU temps. Thats how i have my G12 set up so the VRM cooler is ramping on my definied curve based on the GPU temp, all working great. Good video sir.
Doing the same on a 1080ti killed the vram in 6 months of use.
The left side vram gets no cooling, you need to install some small heatsink on it
Definitely worth it! Here's a sub sir
Is there anyway we can get some sort of adapter for the ribbon strip to the AIO/fans?? Would love to know, if it exists as I'm literally about to tear down my 2080 ti abd do this mod
Simple solution to coil whine.. Get better quality fans that are designed for use with radiators unlike the ones they provided which looked like off the shelf exhaust fans meant for high air speed and not high pressure.
Also I see an issue as the VRAM is no longer being cooled in any way with the pads which helped disperse the heat to the plate are left to the open air.
Maybe no one will ever need or see this, but if you install a g12 on a card that needs more airflow to the die side, without the included fan, here's what you do..
1. Buy a 92mm noctua slim fan
2. Remove the pci slot cover directly below your gpu
3. drill a couple 1/8" holes in the slot cover, ~95mm apart
4. use (4) 5" zip ties in a square to secure the fan to the pci slot cover. trim excess off the zip ties
5. put slot cover and fan back into pc and setup the fan in whatever you're using for controller software
I have the RTX 2070 Super FE does this use the ribbon cable as well? Or does it use the 4 pin? Also, how much taller is this setup than the stock card? I have a micro atx case not sure if I have the room to fit the kraken g12 with a radiator and fans below it. (corsair crystal 280x)
I'd love to know if there's any feasable way to cram this under the GPU in an M1. I've been considering building a custom GPU loop with a low profile radiator, but honestly I don't want to go through the trouble and I'd highly prefer to use an AIO. I've considered using two 120m Kraken (CPU/GPU) but I'd love to find a way to rig in two 240s
You're wrong about fan control.
NZXT CAM software, allows you to select what the AIO is cooling. as long as its plugged into the USB header on the MOBO.
This bracket actually broke my 980ti. It worked for two hours, after the foam blocks got squished and put uneven pressure on the die and cracked it. I asked NZXT and they said a "the bracket had no capability to break a GPU because it was just that, a bracket." So I asked them why did the Amazon page claim the bracket itself, increased cooling up to 40%.
He didn't respond to that, instead told me the bracket couldn't do this or that. I've delided a 6700K I'm still using with a 22% overclock on it. DIY isn't something new for me.
Note, I never asked for a refund or reambursment, I just literally said that should use a better mounting solution that doesn't rely on cheap foam.
I also knew a guy who had a Kraken pump, it died after 2 years. They didn't want to replace it. Don't know the story there. He also said the customer service was terrible.
I have a 2070 super now. Great card.
I had an x52 go bad on me after three years. They asked me a few questions, then issued a replacement which arrived a day later. My customer service experience was great.
You definitely over tightened it. Should only be finger tight
Hi, nice video, thanks! Question, is there no way at all to use the temperature on the GPU to control the fans? I.e. to connect the fans to the GPU instead of the motherboard? I see other GTX2080's do have this option by using a GPU Fan adapter... Has anyone had any success with this on this particular card?
QUestion: Where did you plug your fan to the radiator into? Does it make sense to use a PWM to dual fan spliter - from the graphics card to each fan?
is the NZXT Kraken G12 compatible with a smaller AiO cooler from Corsair? Or does it require the use of only NZXT AiO? I saw you had a corsair, was that a H60?