@@1337Ox so you can put even more stuff between a cpu/gpu/whatever surface you're trying to cool and a heatsink? You know that despite their names all thermal compounds are there only to fill the gaps between two surfaces and adding more thermal compound/thicker thermal pad/thermal tape is only going to make cooling less efficient? The best solution would be if cooled surface and heatsink were perfectly flat so that there would be no air, no thermal compound between them so they would touch each other 100%, but it's not possible to mass produce right now.
@@1337Ox kinda defeats the purpose of a thermal transfer layer if you're going to put glue on both sides of it. Thermal compound should be called thermal grease because that's what it is, it fills gaps between both surfaces. the thermal tape that they use for VRMs and M.2 drives are really not even that great at being thermal transfer materials, they just squish the stuff down
@@morthias666 @PsychoLucario guys, look up thermal tape. it's double sided tape made to withstand higher temps than normal tape and is good enough at heat transfer for these little heatsinks. it also is thinner than thermal pads and thus would likely have better thermal conductivity. it's the go-to method to attach vrm/vram heatsinks for aftermarket coolers. literally any Arctic Accelero, Morpheus, Alpenföhn Peter, Gelid Icy Vision, Deepcool VGA etc of the past 15 years has used thermal tape for this.
I just using the Raijintek Morpheus 2 on my Vega 56 since 2018, and not a single heatsink dropped :D The thermals decreased from 85 to 60 Celsius, and bye bye blower cooler :)
I bought one for my vega 64 because I wanted to use quieter fans, and all my heatsinks fell off and it's sitting in a box on my shelf... In the end I just ended up using the cooler it came with (not the blower model) and some upgraded paste, still not the desired result I can hear it sometimes under load but that's easier than making this thing work just to use Arctic P12 PWM fans...
@@sainttrill1165 why? It's more powerful than a 1060 almost a 1070, nothing wrong with that. And 64 puts me within a couple percent of a 1080 and getting some decent games with it was neat value
I did something similar with a reference Palit 2080 Ti Gaming Pro card and slapping a pair of Arctic P14 fans to it on a PCIe bracket, it runs much quieter but overall similar temp/boost clock performance compared to stock fans. But just being near silent is a good upgrade and to me that is what you mostly pay for with the higher end cards like the ASUS Strix.
@@kasakka yeah I've done it before with a 1080 and it worked well. I'll probably do it again with my next build as I'm planning a build-on-a-board style build and I'm intentionally making it look janky af
I honestly think that the industry has to rethink the GPU mounting/cooling a little bit. We probably need the GPU heatsinks sold separately on higher end cards and have some semblance of standardization like what we have on CPUs.
@@grod5998 probably as many people don't want to go to the trouble of replacing a gpu shroud as it will likely be "good enough", but a stock cooler for a CPU is stereotypically not good _enough_
@@RaceboyYT he did both dumbass. He specifically stated he likes to do a dry wipe before the wet wipe. Also the memory chips didnt have any paste on them, what are you on about?
I own a reference Vega64 and the Morpheus 2. I can tell you thermals on the fets get bad because the heatsinks don't fit, just like the problem Linus had. I tried some of my own heatsinks of various sizes and the card just sits way too close to the board for any to fit. On the V64, there is the option of using the OG plate that comes with the blower, and that seems to be the best option, but you also have to cut it to make it work. In the end, I set the fans to a high static (75%) and just don't OC the GPU as much. Stays stable and is WAAAY more quiet which is what my main goal was. That blower sounds like a freaking jet engine, especially if you go past 50% speed on the fan.
I was checking for som info like that when researching the NZXT Kraken G12, where a lot of test (Gamers Nexus and Jay for example) came to the conclusion that the temps are probably fine even if the ram and power delivery is just hit with the breeze of a single fan even without any heat sinks. That is though with the info in mind that those chips are rated for constant load at temps around 90-95°C. The Kraken doesn't even come with any heatsinks für the PCB. Just a 92mm fan that hopefully hits everything. I guess when in doubt just get at watercooling backplate. That might help.
@@LSK2K Probably because your GPU is of a lower level (like mine) or it could be your environment is properly refrigerated so your GPU doesn't heat up enough thanks to the fresh air coming in.
"This doesn't cost and additional $70-80 over Founders edition" When talking about the strix model.... The founders card launched at £1099, the Strix launched at £1499, it was a £400 premium for that 3rd fan.
@@kman1898 To be fair, You're not buying performance. The FE usually outperform the Strix, because usually the Strix is a cutdown PCB with a beefier cooler. Go EVGA or Galax if You want performance.
I'd like to point out that the extra cost is not just the fact that it had an extra fan, but it also has higher boost clock compared to founder's edition which was rated at 1650 MHz at gaming mode and 1665 MHz at OC mode. The truth is both the founder's edition & ROG Strix both perform higher than rated clock when i tested. Founder's edition reach 1675 MHz on boost mode at 100% power (260W), and 1811 MHz at max power (123%, 320W), where as the ROG Strix reach 1767 MHz at OC mode at 100% power (260W), and 1876 MHz at max power (125%, 325W). In these conditions the Strix have lower temperatures at 63°C default setting/standard fan speed, 59°C at max power & max fan speed, compared to founder's edition which reach 74°C standard settings & 66°C at max power & fan speed. It also perform 4-5% better in both standard & OC + max power output in 3d mark fire strike ultra graphic benchmark testing.. If you want to spend an extra to buy different cooler then yes, buying the founder's edition is better, but if you want stock vs stock pure performance & better cooling ROG Strix is the better option, plus it's got a cool "Aura Sync" RGB lighting.
@@jovanyv5972 Yep, just checked - the STRIX 2080 ti actually uses a similar PCB with a bit more power stages... And for £400 extra, they'd better do... However, As I said - usually they do not - e.g. 5700XTs... those were horid!
5:45 "What am I looking at here?" You're looking at cross-compatibility with multiple different GPU layouts. Which is something you brought a lot of attention to just 3 minutes ago in this very video. :)
Given that the heatsinks fell off and it's a niche product, it's only to be expected that this was more of a "cool tech" video than an in-depth review. That's what LTT does for a lot of things.
HA! I actually love that it is so obvious that he is about to do the sponsor spiel that it is easy to tell where I need to hit fast forward and when I can just quit watching the video. :)
No offense, but we barely got any actual data from this video. Fans are "barely" spinning -- what RPM exactly? No RPM to temp chart? How were the VRM temps after all the heatsinks fell off?
@@TristynRusselo Yeah but he made that number up, there's no way they were spinning at 600-700 rpm during that synthetic benchmark, my guess is it was around 1200. He didn't actually measure it.
@@erathemonologuer1454 It wasn't '"his word", it was a causal guestimate based on his finger touching the fan blades after the test. Not exactly scientific. I mean I don't expect much from LTT in the way of data, you gotta go to GN for that, but still, give us something.
I used the Morpheus II on my AMD Vega 56. I went from usually settling into the low-90 degrees with fans pinned at max, to near silent running at 60-70 degrees max, overclocked. I'll be using Raijintek coolers from now on, considering how insane my results were. *If I can find a cheap Founder's Edition card, or compatible aftermarket card*. That being said, I had the same problem with the tiny thermal glue heat pads falling off. I ended up having to buy some aftermarket heat pads off Aliexpress, so factor that into a purchasing decision.
Do you think the cooler could be easily attached to a Radeon VII? I waited forever for Raijintek to make a version for the VII. Best thermal stickers are the ones I got from ID Cooling. Seem to work best if I took of the backing but let it be exposed to the air for while before attaching.
I installed the Morpheus II on my Zotac Gtx 1080ti Amp Extreme and I couldn't be happier with it. I, too, had a moderately difficult time getting the aluminum heatsinks to fit properly, but I also actually installed mine on the VRMs as well as the mosfets and they haven't budged since installation more than six months ago. With the new cooler I was actually able to push the factory overclock even further while dropping my full load temps by about 20°C on average. This removed any and all thermal throttling issues I had while playing competitive games on my 240hz monitor. Absolutely worth the upgrade for me. No air GPU cooler I've ever seen even comes close to this performance.
I have the same gpu, and im curious why you would upgrade the fan setup, when their three fan setup already performs fantastic. I never see above 72c. And thats at 1440p 100 fps +
@@theberch I now never see above 50°C no matter the load, have reduced fan noise to near silence, and am able to push the overclock even further than I could with the stock cooler. That's why.
@@Thrashman138 Dont believe you. Let's see you running 2k textures, pushing 100+ fps or even a benchmark and see 50c. Water blocks don't even do that. Anyway, if you want to lie, at least make it believable. If your doing 1080p 60fps, I might believe that.
@@Thrashman138 I can confirm your results are plausible. I use Arctic Accelero Xtreme on my non-ti at 250W and it's the same picture. I was looking at the Morpheus but for me this cheaper option coming with fans included hit the spot. I used liquid metal though, so that makes up for the missing heatpipes and lower grade fans. Furmark maxed out 1440p at 28°C ambient temperature (yeah it's warm right now): 47°C Tmax full speed fans; 52°C with my low noise curve. Thermaltake Core P3 on desk, so I want it really quiet.
Right? I was thinking the same thing from the begining: why to buy another cooler when you already have one? Just take away shroud and put bigger ass fans.
@SaltinbanK peak temperature not is the recommended max (normally 115c) and not is the software limited temperature for VRM (normally 105c)... When the VRM reach this limited temperature the board down his speed or not reach "boost speeds".
Like Linus concludes, I think a better idea is to go for an expensive card with a HUGE heatsink like some EVGA models and then go a step further. Remove the stock fans and use 2x 140mm fans instead. I'm very surprised how effective that is. Edit: You keep the stock VRM cooling that way and can put the original fans back on just fine. In the meantime during this heatwave, GPU temps are around 77 at full load with two 750RPM Noctua 140mmfans which is audible but still very quiet, for a 2070 super.
And next would be to have GPUs and CPUs share the same heatsinks, by simply having those heatsinks which have a gap in the middle, and have them offset by a bit to make them both fit in the case perfectly.
@@jsharp9735 It's all in the prep work. Get that oil off and everything CLEAN. The ones I've done in the past I could pick the card up by the stick on heatsinks. It really sucks that Linus has to half-ass this because haha goofy video for views and likes, and not just show how to do it correctly.
This video should have been a comparison between a card with a good after market cooler, Morpheus 8057, Arctic Accelero, and just strapping a couple Noctua fans to the existing heatsink.
Does it help if I put this on an XFX RX580 (8 GB)? I ask because my video card already has two large fans and the heatsink covers almost the entire board.
I would highly reccomend giving the Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo a shot. I cheaped out on my first gaming rig w/ the single fan Gtx 1060 and constantly thermal throttled.. Replaced the stock cooler with the accelero and the card literally never thermal throttles even when OC'd. I upgraded to the 5700xt last november. Safe to say i didnt cheap out on the version I bought this time 🤣
But how bout those instructuons though 🤣. The thermal pads had me stressing . But the end result was ridiculously good. Took my idle/load temp down like 20-30c, not exaggerating. I should have made an install/test video.
Accelero Mono Plus which is even cheaper cools my Asus GTX1070 Dual just fine with maximum temperatures of 66C. Just slam an Arctic P12 with zipties on it and boom, you have dead silent GPU.
Doesn't necessarily solve the noise issue at all. The FTW3 cooler on my card is great, but also far from quiet. I don't mind it, because when it spins up it actually means some good stuff is happening.
@@simonfrohlich7766 It's as tuned as it's going to get. A 1080ti at 100% load only gets so quiet, no matter how good the cooling solution is. I don't really use it for gaming (much), and with the kind of workloads I hit it with I'd rather it stay as cool as possible rether than as quiet as possible.
@@yashpashar4758 Proper surface cleaning is very important for any adhesive or paint application. You can't expect good bonding if there is some substance between the 2 things you want to bond together. It might not be "dust", but it could be a thermal paste residue, grease etc.
That moment when he puts the heatsinks on the capacitors and inductors. F :'( (Tbf, I looked up the instruction manual and the picture is very misleading) RIP powerstages. 2020-2020
lol this is Verge level of PC building, I like the part where he says he is sticking the VRM heat sinks on but then sticks them on the chokes where they will not cool the VRMs lol
@@stoneymahoney9106 It never was different though? Their videos aren't enthusiast level and never will be. They're conpact and give you basic information.
was excited to see it at first but after what I saw I could have not agreed more... you test the thing with everything Linus... shake it more maybe it will stick better
@@IzzyCraft While the inductors and capacitors are indeed part of the VRM circuitry, they generate negligable quantities of heat. MOSFETs on the other hand will easily go well over 100degC under heavy load, and NEED that cooling. Linus showing that cooling configuration (and he really should know that's wrong with all his experience) and NOT mentioning to his audience that this isn't how you're supposed to do it is a touch irresponsible, even if some of us do get the joke. I seem to recall Jay doing something similar and spent an entire follow-up video fixing his mistake and explaining it? (something like that)
I put this on a 290x Reference with the leaf blower and it works really well. Near silent now and near 40c cooler. I don't agree that aftermarket big coolers make this obsolete as those still get very loud with their low profile triple fans and less heat pipes. It depends on if you feel that silence is worth that extra $50(and effort) over a triple fan aftermarket card. I got the Morpheus II for $50 so for a 290x it was a no brainer but at around $80 it's a harder sell.
I'm very curious about how to get a quieter setup. I recently got a PC for the first time in years and can't believe how loud the fans are (on idle) vs. the last time I had a computer. Do you know if case size is a factor, as in larger fans with larger surface area = louder sound? And what's the relationship between heat pipes and fans if the heat has to leave the area anyway? The case mine came with is unbelievably huge and I'm thinking of trying to downsize if that will help with the noise.
@@chriskaprysCase cooling does matter but not as much as you would think. Absolutely DO NOT go down to a smaller case if your primary concern is noise as it will only make your component temps go higher, all other things equal. Check to see if your PC case has proper ventilation and airflow. Two fans is really all you need. Larger fans make louder sound for the same RPM but they move more air when equalized for the amount of noise produced, at least for case fans. Over rads smaller fans push air better. You'll need to isolate the problem and find out which part your PC is making the noise: GPU: Most modern GPUs should not even spin up their fans on idle and it sounds like you probably have some kind of bare bones, low end, 1650 with a single fan or something. It's been two years since I've posted this comment and you should not be considering a mod like the Morpheus II anymore. GPU prices have come down and now we're in the age of ridiculous overspecced GPU coolers on the 4080 and 4090 that can now rival the cooling performance(and size) of the Morpheus II. CPU: Either your CPU cooler is every tiny and underspecced or it could be just not good enough depending on how powerful your CPU is. You'll need to get a good tower cooler if this is the case. Case fans: Maybe your PC came with extremely cheap fans without RPM control spinning at full speed at all times. Replace them with Noctua A12x25s or Phanteks T30s if this is the case. Or you can even just unplug them if your case is well ventilated. PSU: Cheap PSUs can have loud fans or it could be that some have performance modes that turn the fan to full blast. Turn down the fan speed if you are able or replace the PSU. Edit: On your question about heatpipes. More heatpipes will allow heat to leave the die area faster. Less heatpipes mean the fans spin faster to bring down the temperature making more noise.
@@SteelTumbleweed Thanks very much for the info and hints. That gives me a helpful starting point to work from. I'm pretty sure the case itself has sufficient cooling. No filters that I can see that might need cleaning and the fans seem clean. All but one side (the MB "bottom") are mesh, and there's little-to-no dust inside. Interesting you say that 2 fans should be enough. This case has 8. The top 2 fans are 7.5". Then there's a hard drive bay sandwich pulling air from the front - two pairs of Rosewill 5.5" fans either side of where you'd stack up to 10 HDDs ... but this only has two tiny Samsung SSDs; I didn't think HDDs or SSDs needed *that* much cooling. Then a 7.5" Thermaltake fan on the side panel, and a generic 5.5" fan pointed out the rear. The CPU has a 5.5" aluminum/copper pipe element with a 5" Cooler Master fan on it (I think that's the tower cooler you mentioned). However it's only dealing with an i7-6850K, and not OC'd. The GPU is a 1050 Ti with two fans, which I know is relatively ancient, but I'm not a gamer and figured, as with the other components, I'll upgrade once the need arises. Good to have my suspicion confirmed that it shouldn't be doing much at idle; thanks again. I hadn't considered the PSU fan noise so that's good to know it could be a variable. This has an EVGA 1600W 80+ Gold, which I thought was pretty good, but I'll take a listen with the case fans off. I'm going to spend some time in the BIOS/UEFI today and see if I can get the fans to stfu, or try unplugging them like you said since the whole case is basically mesh. Besides, my ambient temp is no higher than 68F/20C (I prefer 65 or lower, but .. plants). I'll also try out some Noctua and Phantek as I keep seeing their names pop up when researching this stuff. I hadn't realised there could be fans that weren't RPM-regulated that might blast full speed all the time, so that's a good clue. Thanks for the advice. I've obviously got a lot more to learn, and it's helpful to know what variables to try and isolate. Cheers.
@@chriskaprys 7.5"(I'm assuming they're 200mm fans) are huge. They are not common. More fans are generally always better for both noise and thermals as long as you can spin them down slower accordingly(2 fans at 1000rpm is quieter than 1 fan at 2000rpm, etc). Check to see if you can control the speeds of all of them, and try unplugging the ones you can't before you spend any money. You google Fan Control(first result), which is a pretty good tool I use. They might be connected to certain headers on your motherboard that can't control the RPM of the fan or can only be controlled if they're PWM(4 pins) fans which most cheaper fans are not(3 pins). Cheaper fans also tend to have a minimum RPM and can't be spun down completely. The premium fans I mentioned are all PWM and have a minimum RPM of 0. That EVGA PSU is waaay overspecced for the rest of your system and shouldn't be the source of your problem. It probably has a 0 RPM state and might not spin up at all at idle in your configuration. A two fan 1050 Ti shouldn't be THAT loud on idle but if you don't game you can consider replacing it with passive display adapter with no fans. Cooler Master coolers are decent but the fans tend to be loud. Your HDD and SSDs don't need any cooling at all. It sounds like the main culprit is mostly likely your case fans. One thing to check is the side fans. Check if they are intake or exhaust because if they are intake they might create harmonic whistling sounds because there is no gap between the fan and the fan grill. If the side is exhaust then it will make your temps even worse because (I'm assuming it's at the GPU)normally your GPU fan is pulling air in from that vent. I'd recommend unplugging or removing this fan as I've experimented with this and concluded that it's best to leave this slot empty. Also you can probably just unplug the fans that are dedicated to cooling drives. Good luck, from a quiet PC enthusiast.
@@SteelTumbleweed whoever you are, you're a legend. Your previous advice gave me the courage to put on my big-boy pants and get over my buyer's remorse and pop the hood on this thing and get to know it better. First eureka (and this is how long it's been since I've delved into PC building world) - I didn't know the BIOS was a mouse-controlled UI, so looking at the Q-Fan control graph I thought it was just a report. Turns out, I can click the friggin' thing, and in there I found out that every fan was set to Max 100%. Wow. I was able to manually set the RPM on them, so they don't even kick on until it starts to get warm in there. That's almost nothing compared to how much quieter it is since I unplugged the pair of front and top fans - I mean you would have to raise your voice to talk over them, seriously. I figured out how to get the giant frisbee fans out of the top of the case so that whatever heat wants to rise up can pass right through the mesh. I can't imagine doing anything with this PC that would require them any time soon. The PSU indeed is overspecced, and was part of the reason I went for this purchase since I saw it as future-proofing: as I figure out what my PC needs entail, at least I'll have a decent PSU with plenty of overhead. Once I got rid of the outer case fans, I was able to notice 1) the rear Rosewill fan and the CPU Cooler Master are dead quiet. The other two Rosewills that were now properly RPM-managed were making a bit of noise, like an HDD seeking sound, so they'll be the first ones to get replaced, if at all. Otherwise, the PSU was making the rest of the noise, like the level of a microwave running in an adjacent room with the door closed. Here's where it gets even better: by getting inside the case and doing some better cable management, I happened to see there's an "ECO" switch right on the PSU that turns its fan off until it reaches a certain load. Presto! Also the previous owner had apparently been using the case as cable storage, because there was a whole shopping bag's-worth of cables plugged into nothing and just randomly stuffed into unused cavities. So I gutted it down to the essentials, pulled out brackets, re-ran wires (some were even laying across the RAM and CPU heat sinks (?!)), and repositioned the SSDs so that the fans on the HDD bay get maximum air flow. (I wanted to simply remove the whole bay but it's riveted into the case.) I now have an absolutely silent PC idling at 37C (I can't even hear the CPU fan @ 1315 RPM unless I put my ear next to it). And I have you to thank, for the information and inspiration to research more about how to work with what I already have rather than spending my time researching some other setup and scratching a hole into my head. I may still opt for a smaller case, understanding your caveat about hotter components, because this thing is so comically large I feel like I should be charging the motherboard rent. Thanks so much for pointing my time and efforts in the right direction!
Okay. This isn't really a tech tip. Or even a great video. Linus comeon... give them a fair shake and at least try to perform a test where you attempt to affix the heatsinks onto the GPU vram? A normal user would at least attempt to reapply them after they have fallen off. And can we get some data onscreen. Give us something so we can see the gain/loss. Edit: 6:37 comeon Linus? You are a tech guy. Not an incompetent non tech guy.
My takeaway from this video was this product is too difficult to install and there are other products that are also difficult to install that will perform better. There really isn't a point in doing further testing
"And can we get some data onscreen. Give us something so we can see the gain/loss." I know right! I'm not expecting GamersNexus level of information but something would be nice
@@alexdavis9324 It really isn't. It's piss-easy to install, he put zero effort into this and appears to have purposefully screwed it up - he's not stupid enough to put heatsinks on chokes instead of mosfets, he just couldn't be bothered to take this seriously. From my own experience, there's basically no aftermarket GPU cooler that can touch this thing short of a full-cover water block, and unlike those blocks that are basically only compatible with extremely specific cards, there's basically no standard form factor single die card you can't put one of these things on - past, present or future - so long as you're willing to actually engage your brain and pay attention to what you're doing. I lost a lot of respect for Linus from this video, he dun screwed this one up badly.
when you are the one of most profitable techtuber in the community, i think its pretty normal to ignore such detail that are time wasting, because you already set for life from youtube algorithm
I have one of these installed on my Vega 64 gpu right now. It was not a difficult installation. My only complaint is that there isn't enough clearance for *some* VRM heatsink - they need to offer to low profile options. Thing is wicked cool and nearly silent under full load.
If noise is your key criteria, we already know it's better. Doesn't use noisy undersized fans like AC and has a large heatsink... As for AIO's, they tend to be noisier unless you go with a double or triple rad - and then you're better off with a custom loop.
@@ed-te1fp I morely think it's a luck of the draw with AIO's. I use the Kraken G12 bracket with a completely unbranded Asetek AIO that was from a prebuilt in 2016 and my 1080 and AIO is nigh silent only reaching 50 degrees C with an overclock to 2012 MHz stable.
@@BrumBrumBryn I don't think your assumption is correct. A huge FOUR slot cooler, which is what the RanjainTek is, SHOULD be better than the smaller Accelero's. In addition, you cannot easily customize the small fans the Accelero's comes with and you cannot run them slow. In my system, not a single fan runs about 1000 rpm and my 2070 RTX Super is cooled by two high-quality Noctura 900 rpm 120mm fans on this heatsink and is very quiet. I did my research before going for the RaijinTek over the Accelero's, and am pleased with the results.
I did something similar with an Arctic Accelero Extreme 3 a year ago on a superclocked 1080 from EVGA whose fans were constantly clicking and past warranty. I had such a surprise on the silence, lower temps and greater overclocking. I never hear the graphics card anymore and a bonus is the card's coil whine pretty much became inaudible. If you have a perfectly good but older card out of warranty that has mechanical issues, try something like this. It takes time and patience but worth it. FYI - Arctic's kit was nicely outfitted with accessories like heatsinks, paste etc..
After 5 hours you have seen no one has commented so you have added a comment yourself for self-satisfaction, (i will do the same if no replies for this )
@@wheezel55 They want you to pay more for the black versions (which would probably cost fucking less to manufacture over ones with different colors) of their fans and coolers which I find scummy and greedy. I will never buy a Noctua product, when competition literally do exist which are all comparable or actually better while being cheaper most of the times.
@@georgf9279 Yeah, but my point is that the chokes weren't meant to have a heatsink, that heatsink was most likely meant to be directly connected to the VRM. I could be wrong.
@@dgraves14 Trying not to repeat myself: There were two copper heatsinks, one of them was on the mosfets (already). Unless you are somehow able to put two heatsinks in one place, there is no other sensible choice then to put the second one on the chokes. Mosfets, or their more integrated brethren, "powerstages", are only one of the parts that make up a VoltageRegulaterModule. The chokes are also part of the VRM. Both need cooling the powerstages more so, but the chokes aren't to be neglected either.
Welp. It was obvious for me, but in a different way. I bought a second hand MSI RTX 2080 Aero with a water block on it, but luckily, the original blower fan was also still there. I have an AIO watercooler for my CPU, so no custom loop. I cleaned up the waterblock and sold it, put the original (tiny) heatsink and blower fan back on it, to make sure it worked, it did, and so then ordered the Raijintek Morpheus 8057. I removed the blower fan off of the baseplate and glued some small heatsink here and there on it (with thermally conductive glue of course) and then plopped the Raijintek cooler on it. Not only is it near inaudible, it caps at 60 degrees C with the MSI BIOS still controlling the fan speed (Running at around 1050RPM). So now comes a bit of tweaking with MSI afterburner, to make it completely inaudible and maybe increase the TDP limit and such.... I mean, installing it with the original backplate in place did require a little bit of creativity, but whatever, it is WAY cooler AND more silent than the blower cooler could ever hope to be and in the end, this solution was cheaper than trying to find a 2080 with a proper original cooler, like the strix right now and even with the Strix, I would probably still try to coolmod it with bigger fans, like I've been doing for a long time now with my graphics cards. I'm just glad that the screws included are a bit thicker than the ones that came with some of the older aftermarket heatsinks, that would strip their own threads after one use. Well, not old, like Zalman VF700 old, but like the Deepcool V4600. ANYWAY.... I'm, just happy that these types of aftermarket coolers are still a thing, especially now, when we don't always exactly have a lot of choice in which GPU to get, if we do still want an upgrade, or whatever.
I have the older Morpheus 2, and it's been great on my GTX1070 for the last year or so, and I also didn't lose any of my heat sinks, but it also came with individual sinks for each VRAM chip, & i used some longer included ones on the VRM with great success, tho I'm sure it helped already having a better thermal tape than what was supplied. I plan to move it over onto my next GPU in the next couple years.
Apparently those chokes and capacitors needed cooling more than the vrm did, Thankfully no one comes here for tech tips right? Is this a video submission for an interview at the verge?
Keep in mind that they followed exactly like the manual said. Colin literally said "there are so many other components that needs heatsink according to Nvidia" to which Linus responds "according to Raijintek, this is it boys".
@@muhammadkhairulafiq2917 Manual doesn't say anything about cooling chokes instead of fets. The diagram there is pretty bad, yeah but this is a product for enthusiasts with a brain who know that it's the fets that need cooling. Also brain lets you do the 2+2 and install radiators on parts that were covered by thermal pads in the unmodified setup.
@@outcastatsabre "For enthusiast with a brain" hold that right there buckaroo. Before you go off and throwing insult to people around, you also need to keep in mind there are a lot of newcomers and first time enthusiast. Sure to people like us, this is just another day in the office. But are you implying first-time enthusiast is an idiot? That wouldnt be a good image for the community isnt it? With that said, Linus isnt one of them, we all can agree on that. The main point however, as a electronics product manufacturer, it should be their responsibility to give proper instruction. Plugging a 3 pin plug can be done by a 4 year old, yet many phone manual comes with the instruction on how to on their 'charging' segment. I would say this isnt something a 4 year old can do. Even how and where to plug your PCIE cards/CPU/RAM are all included and clearly instructed with very good diagram in manuals. I would say those are the easiest things in PC building. Even cable management is more complex.
@@muhammadkhairulafiq2917 "are you implying first-time enthusiast is an idiot?" I'll imply that sure, First time anyones are idiots generally (being an enthusiast doesn't mean having the most expensive parts fwiw) I've been doing this 20 years and even after 10 I made the odd mistake when I was breaking new ground, Difference being I wasn't proclaiming to offer "tech tips" to millions of people. Before making a "how to" video it often helps to actually know what the fuck you're talking about otherwise *you are* the verge which linus ridiculed happily, We going to allow double standards now just because of popularity? Why should he, I or anyone be treated differently? Linus' knows what a choke and a mosfet is and imitating lemmings by doing something stupid just because you're told do is not something to be applauded, Conscientious though should be an option. The best educations tend to be very expensive sure but that does not mean newcomers should tear down thier £600 graphics card and delidded a £1000 cpu before they have learned on cheaper parts, If something goes wrong (and its more likely for noobs) then it could kill the system and lead to them leaving the community altogether, that's worse than being told off for doing something stupid and learning a lesson.
This is a really good solution too for micro ITX builds where water cooling is impossible. I've been using an Arctic air cooler with 120mm Be Quiet fans in my Node 202 build for a few years and it's been the quietest setups I've ever had with no compromise on space or thermal throttling.
Also after watching further into the vid - the Arctic coolers VRM coolers didn't have any issues with staying on the board or interfering with the cooler itself. And I've only had 1 of the small heatsinks fall off after years of use.
Hey, hey You know what song Get in the groove, babe Steve walks warily down the street With the brim pulled way down low Ain't no sound but the sound of his feet Machine guns ready to go Are you ready? Hey, are you ready for this? Are you hanging on the edge of your seat? Out of the doorway the bullets rip To the sound of the beat, yeah, yeah Yeah, yeah, sing it! (Another one bites the dust) One more! (Another one bites the dust) And another one gone, and another one gone Another one bites the dust Hey, I'm gonna get you too Another one bites the dust How do you think I'm going to get along Without you, when you're gone You took me for everything that I had And kicked me out on my own Are you happy, are you satisfied? How long can you stand the heat? Out of the doorway the bullets rip To the sound of the beat Hey, hey, hey Another one bites the dust (Another one bites the dust) And another one gone, and another one gone Another one bites the dust Hey, I'm gonna get you, too Another one bites the dust
@@Heilzmaker Riding in the bus down the boulevard And the place was pretty packed (yeah!) Couldn't find a seat so I had to stand With the perverts in the back It was smelling like a locker room There was junk all over the floor We're already packed in like sardines But we're stopping to pick up more, look out Another one rides the bus Another one rides the bus Another comes on and another comes on Another one rides the bus Hey, he's gonna sit by you Another one rides the bus There's a suitcase poking me in the ribs There's an elbow in my ear There's a smelly old bum standing next to me Hasn't showered in a year I think I'm missing a contact lens I think my wallet's gone And I think this bus is stopping again To let a couple more freaks get on look out Another one rides the bus Another one rides the bus Another comes on and another comes on Another one rides the bus Hey, he's gonna sit by you Another one rides the bus Another one rides the bus Another one rides the bus ow Another one rides the bus hey hey Another one rides the bus hey-ey-ey-ey The window doesn't open and the fan is broke And my face is turning blue (yeah) I haven't been in a crowd like this Since I went to see the who Well I should've got off a couple miles ago But I couldn't get to the door There isn't any room for me to breathe And now we're gonna pick up more Another one rides the bus Another one rides the bus Another comes on and another comes on Another one rides the bus Hey, he's gonna sit by you Another one rides the bus
I bought one way back for my GTX770 because one of the stock fans was dead. As I remember it I didn't have any problems. Maybe quality went down over the years?
Linus is not heatsinking the actual MOSFETS that actually create heat. He's putting it on the capacitors and the CHOKES that don't generate much heat. Do not follow what Linus did, you have to stick the heatsink on the MOSFETS on the right side of the CHOKES.
i agree with you, but i still think the heatsinks would fall off no matter where they were placed and also the test rig seemed stable with most of them missing.
focalpoint that’s true putting it on mosfets that are hotter might make them fall off faster even. Raijintek really just needs better thermal tapes on those.
@@getdrinking usually people use heatglue or clips or tape, it's def possible to get them and some heatsinks on the VRAM and VRMs Amazon has some pretty good and inexpensive options
I did a fan mod on my asus pheonix rtx 3060 V2 recently and ffs that is a difference in loudness like night and day. the stock fan of the phoenix runs at 1600rpm min and 3000 rpm at max but never got higher as 1700rpm while playing games or benchmarking. But those 1600rpm was so shockingly loud. I removed the cover of my gpu and placed one noctua nf-f12 onto the heatsink, plugged it in one of the case fan headers on my mainboard and controlling it via argus monitor. In idle it runs at around 600rpm at ~35°C and while gaming or benchmarking I set them with a custom curve to 1300rpm and it never goes over 60°C gpu temp and 70°C hot spot. Luv it. And it's so quiet. So unbelievable quiet.
I run the older Morpheus II (looks like literally the same thing but nickel instead of black) on my 1070 FTW with two Noctua NF-A12's on a fan header adapter/splitter and it runs so much more quiet than the stock already pretty decent cooler. OC'd the snots out of it and it's as quiet/cool as stock at stock settings.
I'd love to see more demos of quiet setups. I recently picked up a PC tower for the first time in years after watching tons of LTT videos and choosing what specs I think I need for my use case, and although it's an old-yet-powerful PC, I'm astonished at how loud it is. I got it yesterday and after a couple hours spent next to it I couldn't wait to turn it off just to have some peace and quiet again. Last time I had a PC tower (in 2017) it had a nice low whisper hum at idle, and only got noticeably loud when it was under load. The one I now have sounds like a window A/C unit when it's just on idle. Noise consideration is the one thing I don't know how to shop for (translating dB ranges to real-world experience) when researching components, so these test videos are really helpful.
Nut you didn't test the VRMs and all the other hitspots on the card. You've done half a job with a full smile. All the heatsinks fell off, so seeing that performance is way more important.
Have you cleaned the Chips bevor applying the thermal tape for the heatsinks? In my experience the thermal pads of the orginal cooler left some residue (silicone? some kind of hydrocarbons?) on the chips which prevent the thermal tape to glue well. After wiping the chips with alcohol the VRAM Heatsinks sticked very well and never fell off again. In my opinion Raijintek misses to mention that or even better should add some cleaning wipes for that purpose.
@@viktorkarlsson5998 My guess is RR watched comp. temperatures (which is usually C even in us systems) and has a temp sensor in their room with farenheit units on it.
You : "OH! I can type da cooment abowt dis" Comment section : "srs just fudge off m8 fu" You : "dab dab yeet skeet me maed da funny maymay coomint hurr durr 🤤" Maymays intensifies etc.
I always wondered why you guys never made a video in this it has been out for awhile now I have one and absolutely love my gtx 1080 never sees temps above 56°c anymore. Although I'm not sure how you guys set this up because none of my heatsinks fell off. Also you should get a gpu fan header splitter to 4pin headers so you can control the fan curve from the gpu directly
Really nice to hear Linus actually giving tips and sharing wisdoms from experience along the way. Not saying he doesn't do that enough, but it's great when a channel continues to live up to its name, no matter how huge it gets. Thanks LTT.
AMAZING of you to point to Tech Ingredients' channel !! Eventhough you'd think they're clickbaity, their content definitely ISN'T ! It's the greatest science channel on the whole of TH-cam !
Performance is very good, installation is strange and i don't know, if the double sided cooling concept is the optimum, but for less money it certainly appealed to me and i'm very happy with it on a rx480.
ADUB Had to put the III on my 1080ti FTW3 and I can say it runs spectacular as well. Haven’t seen it go past 63 degrees C. Glad to hear the IV on the 2070 is running well too! Niche products but they work great!
I'm honestly surprised at the negative review - the product did everything it claimed and beat Linus' two metrics - easier and cheaper than watercooling with good performance. I can't wait to replace my horrendously loud and inefficient stock cooler on my 2080ti FE
Already 10 years ago, I took the GPU fans off with the plastic cover, and put normal bigger fans on that are run from the motherboard settings. Then you can adjust speed nicely yourself. So with a 3080TI or so, just take everything off and mount 2x12cm Noctua's. This thick GPU look Linus is showing, is so familiair.
Ok, but in which slot did they attach the fan's calbes? just a random spot? wouldn't that make it less efficient? like, the gpu is at 100% but the fans are running at the same speed. I tought about doing the exact same thing with my alienware aurora r10, but there isn't a precise spot for "gpu fans", i don't know what to do, please help!
I've been using the Core version, the one you showed they used the pictures from. The adhesive with mine was way stronger and I didn't get mismatched heatsinks. I basically just got a million single heatsinks that fit perfectly on one memory module. Didnt get any copper ones either and I havent had a single one fall off after 2 years Highly recommend the Core II over the 8057 or whatever this is
I put this on a 2080 (non Ti) that was pulled off my old rig. It was a water cooled 2080 but my buddy wasn't comfortable with water cooling. This was the best solution. Combined with thermoconductive epoxy and we have a winner. I set the fans to stay at 900 or so RPM. Silent and effective. This is a great product. With a good thermoconductive epoxy.
6:30 it actually will affect performance. GPUs require a lot of thermal paste and need to be smeared evenly, the opposite of what CPUs require. You should know this based on the video you made about the chinese AIO CPU + GPU video you released on January 1st 2020.
I use the Accelero Xtreme IV. Dropped my FE 1080Ti down from 84c and the noise of a hoover, to 55c without the fans spinning up (as in from their lowest speed). A few weeks later it now hits 70c max, but fans still don't really speed up. Massively helped my tinnitus!
I've got the Morpheus 2 on a Zotac 1080Ti... Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy... separately purchased RAM chip heatsinks... and 2 CoolerMaster JetFlo fans setup as exhaust fans, directly against the GPU heatsink... all crammed into a Small Form-Factor Desktop style case (Silverstone). The noise level with this setup is significantly lower for SFF builds that can fit all of that, and I'd say it was well worth the money and the effort. The Zotac is not a great design, but with RAM at 7GHz and Core at 2GHz, I never get any throttling and it's easily the quietest build I've ever had.
Grew a beard and now voice is starting to crack. Our boy is finally hitting puberty; so proud!
He grew his beard after getting roasted by other tech TH-camrs on that. Lmao. It was a filmed event.
The likes are 69
@@chevalierdeloccident5949 ...
pissed myself a bit on that comment, nice one mate
@@chevalierdeloccident5949 link pls!
* Multiple heatsinks fall off *
"Alright, let's try and really toast this thing."
Were those just regular thermal pads? They are not sticky at all. They should send double sided thermal tape with it.
@@1337Ox so you can put even more stuff between a cpu/gpu/whatever surface you're trying to cool and a heatsink? You know that despite their names all thermal compounds are there only to fill the gaps between two surfaces and adding more thermal compound/thicker thermal pad/thermal tape is only going to make cooling less efficient? The best solution would be if cooled surface and heatsink were perfectly flat so that there would be no air, no thermal compound between them so they would touch each other 100%, but it's not possible to mass produce right now.
@@1337Ox kinda defeats the purpose of a thermal transfer layer if you're going to put glue on both sides of it. Thermal compound should be called thermal grease because that's what it is, it fills gaps between both surfaces. the thermal tape that they use for VRMs and M.2 drives are really not even that great at being thermal transfer materials, they just squish the stuff down
Yeah it would have been nice if they had checked the memory and vrm temperature before and after the cooler was installed.
@@morthias666 @PsychoLucario guys, look up thermal tape. it's double sided tape made to withstand higher temps than normal tape and is good enough at heat transfer for these little heatsinks. it also is thinner than thermal pads and thus would likely have better thermal conductivity. it's the go-to method to attach vrm/vram heatsinks for aftermarket coolers. literally any Arctic Accelero, Morpheus, Alpenföhn Peter, Gelid Icy Vision, Deepcool VGA etc of the past 15 years has used thermal tape for this.
I just using the Raijintek Morpheus 2 on my Vega 56 since 2018, and not a single heatsink dropped :D The thermals decreased from 85 to 60 Celsius, and bye bye blower cooler :)
No
I bought one for my vega 64 because I wanted to use quieter fans, and all my heatsinks fell off and it's sitting in a box on my shelf... In the end I just ended up using the cooler it came with (not the blower model) and some upgraded paste, still not the desired result I can hear it sometimes under load but that's easier than making this thing work just to use Arctic P12 PWM fans...
@@AmaraTheBarbarian I don't know, sometimes I check my card, its still fine, no problem since the install. Maybe too lucky this time?
Imagine using a Vega 56 🤢🤮
@@sainttrill1165 why? It's more powerful than a 1060 almost a 1070, nothing wrong with that. And 64 puts me within a couple percent of a 1080 and getting some decent games with it was neat value
I'd also be curious in seeing how this performs compared to just having the Noctua fans strapped to the stock heatsink of the Strix card.
That's a pretty common Ncase M1 mod, and it seems to work well for the people I've seen do it.
I did something similar with a reference Palit 2080 Ti Gaming Pro card and slapping a pair of Arctic P14 fans to it on a PCIe bracket, it runs much quieter but overall similar temp/boost clock performance compared to stock fans. But just being near silent is a good upgrade and to me that is what you mostly pay for with the higher end cards like the ASUS Strix.
@@kasakka yeah I've done it before with a 1080 and it worked well. I'll probably do it again with my next build as I'm planning a build-on-a-board style build and I'm intentionally making it look janky af
depends on the size of the heatsink. i tried that with two 92mm Noctua fans on a 1080 ti mini from Zotac. didn't work well, but it was silent at least
I just did this to my 5700xt and saw a massive die temp difference between the Sapphire Pulse cooler and the Morpheus. I posted it on the LTT forums.
I honestly think that the industry has to rethink the GPU mounting/cooling a little bit. We probably need the GPU heatsinks sold separately on higher end cards and have some semblance of standardization like what we have on CPUs.
That would be interesting, cpu cooling solutions seem to always be more efficient for some reason
@@grod5998 probably as many people don't want to go to the trouble of replacing a gpu shroud as it will likely be "good enough", but a stock cooler for a CPU is stereotypically not good _enough_
Will not happen because the GPU card manufacturers love selling coolers that cost 20 to 50 dollars for 100 to 300 dollar markups.
intel: if you insist, let me slap the same shitty cooler you can use on a i3 on an easly overheatable i9
Yes, please.
Wonder what's going on here, as my Morpheus II included thermal tape actually held heat sinks really well.
Defeqel he just dry wiped all the old thermal paste off instead of using rubbing alcohol to actually clean everything off
@@RaceboyYT no he didn't not
This channel are not serious and are incompetent.
same
@@RaceboyYT he did both dumbass. He specifically stated he likes to do a dry wipe before the wet wipe. Also the memory chips didnt have any paste on them, what are you on about?
'Oh yeah, smells like generic.' - Linus 2020
its not really a thing i usually cringe on tbh
- My friend when he eats my snacks that I buy from Aldi
lol
Generic smells strangely like Tuna
They've replaced him with the deepfake!
Considering how he lost all those heatsinks, he should have shown us what memory temps look like... at least with a thermal reader
Can he get at them with all the stuff on top?
@@visilyrom HWiNFO64 has memory temp readings.
I own a reference Vega64 and the Morpheus 2. I can tell you thermals on the fets get bad because the heatsinks don't fit, just like the problem Linus had. I tried some of my own heatsinks of various sizes and the card just sits way too close to the board for any to fit. On the V64, there is the option of using the OG plate that comes with the blower, and that seems to be the best option, but you also have to cut it to make it work.
In the end, I set the fans to a high static (75%) and just don't OC the GPU as much. Stays stable and is WAAAY more quiet which is what my main goal was. That blower sounds like a freaking jet engine, especially if you go past 50% speed on the fan.
@@dfuebermann1 that's why you get the accelero 3 xtreme, not the morpheus
I was checking for som info like that when researching the NZXT Kraken G12, where a lot of test (Gamers Nexus and Jay for example) came to the conclusion that the temps are probably fine even if the ram and power delivery is just hit with the breeze of a single fan even without any heat sinks. That is though with the info in mind that those chips are rated for constant load at temps around 90-95°C.
The Kraken doesn't even come with any heatsinks für the PCB. Just a 92mm fan that hopefully hits everything.
I guess when in doubt just get at watercooling backplate. That might help.
Can I just say, that this video is one my fav just because of the shot on 0:34? Kudos to the camera operator there
Ya that was super clean .
It's just zoom, bro.
@@Heliocentric nah bro, it's not just zoom, you cannot do this shot by zooming, there is camera movement in this shot.
@@steliosmouratidis3829 bro, you obviously havent ever done professional video photography. I can reproduce the same shot with macro and a tripod.
@@Heliocentric so no zooming, exactly what I said. And also, I know my self around cameras and lenses, I mean I work for a major company in the field.
0:00
"Do you cringe?"
At least once a day, Linus.
did somebody say cringe?
around 1:00pm EST every day
@@jdwmyt r/beetlejuicing
Every time I see linus
@@cool_bug_facts the irony
Me: fires up cities skylines in 4k
My single fan mini 1060: aaaahhhahHaahHahahaahhaaha
Me: fires up MHW on my RX 560 at bare minimum settings
RX 560: I'm not even gonna bother
lol thank god I got the dual fan zotac amp version, extremely quiet and doesnt go above 75c
My GPU speed rarely goes over 40% and the temperature when gaming is around 60. Why do other GPUs heat up this much?
You guys have gpu's? I'm stuck with Intel 8th gen integrated graphics 😨😨
@@LSK2K Probably because your GPU is of a lower level (like mine) or it could be your environment is properly refrigerated so your GPU doesn't heat up enough thanks to the fresh air coming in.
“PCI express stœräje” nice job Linus. 7:40
Speech *100*
He said it correctly. Did he used to NOT say it correctly?
@@markjames8702
I think they’re mocking the very high voice crack in the middle of "storage"
"This doesn't cost and additional $70-80 over Founders edition" When talking about the strix model.... The founders card launched at £1099, the Strix launched at £1499, it was a £400 premium for that 3rd fan.
KillerFugu you’re not just buying performance. You’re buying a brand
@@kman1898 To be fair, You're not buying performance. The FE usually outperform the Strix, because usually the Strix is a cutdown PCB with a beefier cooler. Go EVGA or Galax if You want performance.
@@valchanovgeorgi I have the strix, can confirm IT IS NOT cutdown at all- Fe is however normally better due to binning
I'd like to point out that the extra cost is not just the fact that it had an extra fan, but it also has higher boost clock compared to founder's edition which was rated at 1650 MHz at gaming mode and 1665 MHz at OC mode. The truth is both the founder's edition & ROG Strix both perform higher than rated clock when i tested. Founder's edition reach 1675 MHz on boost mode at 100% power (260W), and 1811 MHz at max power (123%, 320W), where as the ROG Strix reach 1767 MHz at OC mode at 100% power (260W), and 1876 MHz at max power (125%, 325W).
In these conditions the Strix have lower temperatures at 63°C default setting/standard fan speed, 59°C at max power & max fan speed, compared to founder's edition which reach 74°C standard settings & 66°C at max power & fan speed. It also perform 4-5% better in both standard & OC + max power output in 3d mark fire strike ultra graphic benchmark testing..
If you want to spend an extra to buy different cooler then yes, buying the founder's edition is better, but if you want stock vs stock pure performance & better cooling ROG Strix is the better option, plus it's got a cool "Aura Sync" RGB lighting.
@@jovanyv5972 Yep, just checked - the STRIX 2080 ti actually uses a similar PCB with a bit more power stages... And for £400 extra, they'd better do... However, As I said - usually they do not - e.g. 5700XTs... those were horid!
5:45 "What am I looking at here?"
You're looking at cross-compatibility with multiple different GPU layouts. Which is something you brought a lot of attention to just 3 minutes ago in this very video. :)
Linus: *logs a bunch of data through several programs*
Also Linus: *doesn't actually show us the data*
Aight.
Add to that no measurement of fan noise, and tinkly soundtrack for video prevents us from hearing whether device makes unacceptable noise.
@@billraty14 Noctua fans at 600-700rpm are probably close to inaudible.
Did you mistake this for a tech channel?
No this is a showcase channel like unboxed therapy.
yea i was expecting the see the data myself but oh well, what you gonna do? 🤷🏾♂️
Given that the heatsinks fell off and it's a niche product, it's only to be expected that this was more of a "cool tech" video than an in-depth review. That's what LTT does for a lot of things.
At this point Linus’ advertisements are so smooth that I WANT to watch it every time 😂😂😂
HA! I actually love that it is so obvious that he is about to do the sponsor spiel that it is easy to tell where I need to hit fast forward and when I can just quit watching the video. :)
They do the ads the right way
I always see it coming and skip it before he even say the brand, but had rewind to see the smoothness you talking about
At this point I'm buying the products
.
.
.
.
Not really
It has been my pre-sleep go to channel for like 2/3 years now 😂😂😂😂
No offense, but we barely got any actual data from this video. Fans are "barely" spinning -- what RPM exactly? No RPM to temp chart? How were the VRM temps after all the heatsinks fell off?
10:23 RPM... just 3 seconds after he said "barely spinning".
Pay attention.
Its a shitily designed product, so who cares besides you?
@@TristynRusselo Yeah but he made that number up, there's no way they were spinning at 600-700 rpm during that synthetic benchmark, my guess is it was around 1200. He didn't actually measure it.
@@QuantumBraced So, your argument is: "You didn't provide an RPM!", but when shown that he did, "I don't trust your word!". Why are you even here?
Agreed. I think this cooler could probably beat the strixx card on thermals and noise if they actually did some tests.
@@erathemonologuer1454 It wasn't '"his word", it was a causal guestimate based on his finger touching the fan blades after the test. Not exactly scientific. I mean I don't expect much from LTT in the way of data, you gotta go to GN for that, but still, give us something.
You know what, I think that loud noise gives my lifeless room life
And as a bonus when you get married you'll barely be able to hear your wife too.
The fan noise drowns out the coil whine for me.
The screams of my blower card fill the lonely silence.
I used the Morpheus II on my AMD Vega 56. I went from usually settling into the low-90 degrees with fans pinned at max, to near silent running at 60-70 degrees max, overclocked. I'll be using Raijintek coolers from now on, considering how insane my results were. *If I can find a cheap Founder's Edition card, or compatible aftermarket card*.
That being said, I had the same problem with the tiny thermal glue heat pads falling off. I ended up having to buy some aftermarket heat pads off Aliexpress, so factor that into a purchasing decision.
Do you think the cooler could be easily attached to a Radeon VII? I waited forever for Raijintek to make a version for the VII.
Best thermal stickers are the ones I got from ID Cooling. Seem to work best if I took of the backing but let it be exposed to the air for while before attaching.
I just attached Arctic P12 fans on my Red Devil Vega 64 with zip ties. Worked a treat
AmusiaPrussia how are your thermals looking? Am about to do the same with my Vega 56. oh and did you repaste it before?
I installed the Morpheus II on my Zotac Gtx 1080ti Amp Extreme and I couldn't be happier with it. I, too, had a moderately difficult time getting the aluminum heatsinks to fit properly, but I also actually installed mine on the VRMs as well as the mosfets and they haven't budged since installation more than six months ago. With the new cooler I was actually able to push the factory overclock even further while dropping my full load temps by about 20°C on average. This removed any and all thermal throttling issues I had while playing competitive games on my 240hz monitor. Absolutely worth the upgrade for me.
No air GPU cooler I've ever seen even comes close to this performance.
I have the same gpu, and im curious why you would upgrade the fan setup, when their three fan setup already performs fantastic. I never see above 72c. And thats at 1440p 100 fps +
@@theberch I now never see above 50°C no matter the load, have reduced fan noise to near silence, and am able to push the overclock even further than I could with the stock cooler.
That's why.
@@Thrashman138 Dont believe you. Let's see you running 2k textures, pushing 100+ fps or even a benchmark and see 50c. Water blocks don't even do that. Anyway, if you want to lie, at least make it believable. If your doing 1080p 60fps, I might believe that.
@@theberch I don't care. Move along and stop wasting my time.
@@Thrashman138 I can confirm your results are plausible. I use Arctic Accelero Xtreme on my non-ti at 250W and it's the same picture. I was looking at the Morpheus but for me this cheaper option coming with fans included hit the spot. I used liquid metal though, so that makes up for the missing heatpipes and lower grade fans. Furmark maxed out 1440p at 28°C ambient temperature (yeah it's warm right now): 47°C Tmax full speed fans; 52°C with my low noise curve. Thermaltake Core P3 on desk, so I want it really quiet.
I removed the shroud and strapped some 120mm fans to my stock heatsink. Load temps went from 70c to 40c.
Did you need an adapter to plug them into the gpu or did you use a case fan header on the mainboard?
@@ThePiprian Bro case fan, maybe get a lil extra power to the GPU since the GPU does not power the fans anymore.
Right? I was thinking the same thing from the begining: why to buy another cooler when you already have one? Just take away shroud and put bigger ass fans.
@@NoneRain_ thinking about doing the same, which fans did you bought and for which gpu?
rtx 2070 super ventus here, terrible cooling..
Seeing a heatsink on the chokes and none on the exposed VRMs... I physically winced...
I stopped the video and search a comment of this... Now play the video
you mean you cringed 0:00
Imagine not having your VRMs running at 105 degrees
@SaltinbanK peak temperature not is the recommended max (normally 115c) and not is the software limited temperature for VRM (normally 105c)... When the VRM reach this limited temperature the board down his speed or not reach "boost speeds".
You would think someone with so much tech and PC experience would know the basic anatomy of a GPU.
Like Linus concludes, I think a better idea is to go for an expensive card with a HUGE heatsink like some EVGA models and then go a step further. Remove the stock fans and use 2x 140mm fans instead. I'm very surprised how effective that is. Edit: You keep the stock VRM cooling that way and can put the original fans back on just fine. In the meantime during this heatwave, GPU temps are around 77 at full load with two 750RPM Noctua 140mmfans which is audible but still very quiet, for a 2070 super.
didnt expect to see you here Niels
Is it as quiet tho?
@@fixture3434 A pleasant surprise that's for sure
@@aibohphobiafrfr hell yeah brother
@@IamLegendAnon noctua is real silent
Little did Linus know..
ASUS would actually make this a year later.
And next would be to have GPUs and CPUs share the same heatsinks, by simply having those heatsinks which have a gap in the middle, and have them offset by a bit to make them both fit in the case perfectly.
Yes but not for the rtx 3080 or 3090 :((
What do you mean? I can't find anything on the internet
@@Dj_Frixz asus noctua collab. linus did a video on it.
@@samsowden ah ok i thought it was a custom cooler
"Never trust double sided thermal tape", Now THAT'S a tech tip!
When I used it on my morpheus 2 its was SOLID, I had to use force and twisting to get them off. This was a half ass attempted at a review.
@@jsharp9735 I've tried it maybe 20 times and it's worked like twice for me lol. It's just not a good idea.
@@SirNickyT user error, just like linus video ;p
@@jsharp9735 It's all in the prep work. Get that oil off and everything CLEAN. The ones I've done in the past I could pick the card up by the stick on heatsinks. It really sucks that Linus has to half-ass this because haha goofy video for views and likes, and not just show how to do it correctly.
This video should have been a comparison between a card with a good after market cooler, Morpheus 8057, Arctic Accelero, and just strapping a couple Noctua fans to the existing heatsink.
Exactly. Also I think accelero is much better than this thing 😬😃
Bring it up with GN
@@nickfury999 the fact that the Accelero is almost the defacto standard for SFF computing mods kinda points towards it being better.
@@BrumBrumBryn more to do with the size and shape,there are bigger coolers that won't fit as well
"It's good to do a dry wipe before a wet wipe to pull off the majority of the goop" I apply the same technique wiping my bum.
... do people use a wet wipe of their ass?
initial thoughts: That is a MASSIVE heat sink
Later thoughts: I want BIGGER
Does it help if I put this on an XFX RX580 (8 GB)? I ask because my video card already has two large fans and the heatsink covers almost the entire board.
lol i love how colin knows were everything goes without even looking
@RITA 25 y.o , I WANT SЕХ !!! OPEN MY CANAL !!! go to heeeeelllll
@@stefane.3169 just report man
@@Kionum done
"or pcie sToRaGe" that voice crack was amazing. 7:39
I was wondering if anyone else heard it
@@wantse-rita25y.oopenmycana50 Filthy spammer. I see TH-cam's spam detection algorithms are failing again.
7:40 voice crack hehe 😂
I would highly reccomend giving the Arctic Accelero Twin Turbo a shot. I cheaped out on my first gaming rig w/ the single fan Gtx 1060 and constantly thermal throttled..
Replaced the stock cooler with the accelero and the card literally never thermal throttles even when OC'd.
I upgraded to the 5700xt last november. Safe to say i didnt cheap out on the version I bought this time 🤣
But how bout those instructuons though 🤣. The thermal pads had me stressing . But the end result was ridiculously good. Took my idle/load temp down like 20-30c, not exaggerating. I should have made an install/test video.
I put an Accelero on my 1080ti, no regrets at all. has been working like a champ for the last year on that rig.
@@vatsalverma7036 i cant dislike it twice
Accelero Mono Plus which is even cheaper cools my Asus GTX1070 Dual just fine with maximum temperatures of 66C. Just slam an Arctic P12 with zipties on it and boom, you have dead silent GPU.
@@dzenandervic1066 you can dislike the comment, and the video itself
Instead of buying a blower style, just by an aftermarket oem with a good cooler, time and money saved.
Doesn't necessarily solve the noise issue at all. The FTW3 cooler on my card is great, but also far from quiet. I don't mind it, because when it spins up it actually means some good stuff is happening.
A lot of Prebuilts have blowers. SO for those people to upgrade this would be good.
@@17Codiferus You might just have to adjust the fan curve, if the cooler is really good, it will still work fine with lower fan speed
but what about the joie de vivre of the blower???????
@@simonfrohlich7766 It's as tuned as it's going to get. A 1080ti at 100% load only gets so quiet, no matter how good the cooling solution is. I don't really use it for gaming (much), and with the kind of workloads I hit it with I'd rather it stay as cool as possible rether than as quiet as possible.
Linus should revisit this with 30-series GPUs, it may get interesting.
4:26 "Where the heck does D go?" - Linus 2020
First time guys be like
Linus sex tips
@@qdnt7828 meh
L I N U S E X T I P S
did you clean the dust off the memory chips and mosfets before installing the double sided thermal tape? dont think so
Why would there be dust on them??? They're already covered with thermal pads before removing them
@@yashpashar4758 Proper surface cleaning is very important for any adhesive or paint application. You can't expect good bonding if there is some substance between the 2 things you want to bond together. It might not be "dust", but it could be a thermal paste residue, grease etc.
@@yashpashar4758 Even worse, the adhesive won't stick to the oily grease from the thermal pads. You can tell if you ever worked with PCs
Doing so would have doubled the amount of thought put into the entire video. That does not make the work/reward, cost/benefit worth it.
@@tacomaken3338 Yeah I never said what they did was right was just saying that dust isn't the issue here xP this really was an awful video ngl
Nice to see you guys covering this product. In many forums this is the way to go if you want to improve cooling performance of your graphics card.
Seriously dont follow this linus installation. That mosfets tho 🔥
yep, i'm kinda glad that heatsinks dropped... and at same time really worried.
Thanks again for early forum access LMG!
What? So why does floatplane exists
Tryhard
Plane go ✈️
@@oleksandrchubras9549 float plane gets it earlier obviously but forum has been getting it 5-10 or so minutes earlier lately
@PLK boat go
7:40 are we just gonna ignore that voice crack
yes
Who cares
He’s an expert presenter he just straight up kept going
Yes
We didn't, the comments are fil’ed with people like you who said it 2 month earlier.
That moment when he puts the heatsinks on the capacitors and inductors. F :'(
(Tbf, I looked up the instruction manual and the picture is very misleading)
RIP powerstages. 2020-2020
yep, I too noticed that right away...
N
I was searching for this comment, knowing that I'm not the only one noticing :D And yes F to those powerstages
@@sonacphotos thank you!
capacitors and inductors when you touch them: adios
lol this is Verge level of PC building, I like the part where he says he is sticking the VRM heat sinks on but then sticks them on the chokes where they will not cool the VRMs lol
NOW we see the truth about LTT!
@@stoneymahoney9106 It never was different though?
Their videos aren't enthusiast level and never will be.
They're conpact and give you basic information.
was excited to see it at first but after what I saw I could have not agreed more... you test the thing with everything Linus... shake it more maybe it will stick better
@@Oldsah Whooooooooosh! (Edit: Also, doing something dangerously wrong on camera is dangerous, end of discussion)
@@IzzyCraft While the inductors and capacitors are indeed part of the VRM circuitry, they generate negligable quantities of heat. MOSFETs on the other hand will easily go well over 100degC under heavy load, and NEED that cooling. Linus showing that cooling configuration (and he really should know that's wrong with all his experience) and NOT mentioning to his audience that this isn't how you're supposed to do it is a touch irresponsible, even if some of us do get the joke.
I seem to recall Jay doing something similar and spent an entire follow-up video fixing his mistake and explaining it? (something like that)
I put this on a 290x Reference with the leaf blower and it works really well. Near silent now and near 40c cooler.
I don't agree that aftermarket big coolers make this obsolete as those still get very loud with their low profile triple fans and less heat pipes.
It depends on if you feel that silence is worth that extra $50(and effort) over a triple fan aftermarket card.
I got the Morpheus II for $50 so for a 290x it was a no brainer but at around $80 it's a harder sell.
I'm very curious about how to get a quieter setup. I recently got a PC for the first time in years and can't believe how loud the fans are (on idle) vs. the last time I had a computer.
Do you know if case size is a factor, as in larger fans with larger surface area = louder sound?
And what's the relationship between heat pipes and fans if the heat has to leave the area anyway?
The case mine came with is unbelievably huge and I'm thinking of trying to downsize if that will help with the noise.
@@chriskaprysCase cooling does matter but not as much as you would think. Absolutely DO NOT go down to a smaller case if your primary concern is noise as it will only make your component temps go higher, all other things equal. Check to see if your PC case has proper ventilation and airflow. Two fans is really all you need.
Larger fans make louder sound for the same RPM but they move more air when equalized for the amount of noise produced, at least for case fans. Over rads smaller fans push air better.
You'll need to isolate the problem and find out which part your PC is making the noise:
GPU: Most modern GPUs should not even spin up their fans on idle and it sounds like you probably have some kind of bare bones, low end, 1650 with a single fan or something. It's been two years since I've posted this comment and you should not be considering a mod like the Morpheus II anymore. GPU prices have come down and now we're in the age of ridiculous overspecced GPU coolers on the 4080 and 4090 that can now rival the cooling performance(and size) of the Morpheus II.
CPU: Either your CPU cooler is every tiny and underspecced or it could be just not good enough depending on how powerful your CPU is. You'll need to get a good tower cooler if this is the case.
Case fans: Maybe your PC came with extremely cheap fans without RPM control spinning at full speed at all times. Replace them with Noctua A12x25s or Phanteks T30s if this is the case. Or you can even just unplug them if your case is well ventilated.
PSU: Cheap PSUs can have loud fans or it could be that some have performance modes that turn the fan to full blast. Turn down the fan speed if you are able or replace the PSU.
Edit: On your question about heatpipes. More heatpipes will allow heat to leave the die area faster. Less heatpipes mean the fans spin faster to bring down the temperature making more noise.
@@SteelTumbleweed Thanks very much for the info and hints. That gives me a helpful starting point to work from.
I'm pretty sure the case itself has sufficient cooling. No filters that I can see that might need cleaning and the fans seem clean. All but one side (the MB "bottom") are mesh, and there's little-to-no dust inside.
Interesting you say that 2 fans should be enough. This case has 8.
The top 2 fans are 7.5". Then there's a hard drive bay sandwich pulling air from the front - two pairs of Rosewill 5.5" fans either side of where you'd stack up to 10 HDDs ... but this only has two tiny Samsung SSDs; I didn't think HDDs or SSDs needed *that* much cooling. Then a 7.5" Thermaltake fan on the side panel, and a generic 5.5" fan pointed out the rear.
The CPU has a 5.5" aluminum/copper pipe element with a 5" Cooler Master fan on it (I think that's the tower cooler you mentioned). However it's only dealing with an i7-6850K, and not OC'd.
The GPU is a 1050 Ti with two fans, which I know is relatively ancient, but I'm not a gamer and figured, as with the other components, I'll upgrade once the need arises. Good to have my suspicion confirmed that it shouldn't be doing much at idle; thanks again.
I hadn't considered the PSU fan noise so that's good to know it could be a variable. This has an EVGA 1600W 80+ Gold, which I thought was pretty good, but I'll take a listen with the case fans off.
I'm going to spend some time in the BIOS/UEFI today and see if I can get the fans to stfu, or try unplugging them like you said since the whole case is basically mesh. Besides, my ambient temp is no higher than 68F/20C (I prefer 65 or lower, but .. plants). I'll also try out some Noctua and Phantek as I keep seeing their names pop up when researching this stuff. I hadn't realised there could be fans that weren't RPM-regulated that might blast full speed all the time, so that's a good clue.
Thanks for the advice. I've obviously got a lot more to learn, and it's helpful to know what variables to try and isolate. Cheers.
@@chriskaprys 7.5"(I'm assuming they're 200mm fans) are huge. They are not common. More fans are generally always better for both noise and thermals as long as you can spin them down slower accordingly(2 fans at 1000rpm is quieter than 1 fan at 2000rpm, etc). Check to see if you can control the speeds of all of them, and try unplugging the ones you can't before you spend any money. You google Fan Control(first result), which is a pretty good tool I use. They might be connected to certain headers on your motherboard that can't control the RPM of the fan or can only be controlled if they're PWM(4 pins) fans which most cheaper fans are not(3 pins). Cheaper fans also tend to have a minimum RPM and can't be spun down completely. The premium fans I mentioned are all PWM and have a minimum RPM of 0.
That EVGA PSU is waaay overspecced for the rest of your system and shouldn't be the source of your problem. It probably has a 0 RPM state and might not spin up at all at idle in your configuration.
A two fan 1050 Ti shouldn't be THAT loud on idle but if you don't game you can consider replacing it with passive display adapter with no fans.
Cooler Master coolers are decent but the fans tend to be loud.
Your HDD and SSDs don't need any cooling at all.
It sounds like the main culprit is mostly likely your case fans. One thing to check is the side fans. Check if they are intake or exhaust because if they are intake they might create harmonic whistling sounds because there is no gap between the fan and the fan grill. If the side is exhaust then it will make your temps even worse because (I'm assuming it's at the GPU)normally your GPU fan is pulling air in from that vent. I'd recommend unplugging or removing this fan as I've experimented with this and concluded that it's best to leave this slot empty. Also you can probably just unplug the fans that are dedicated to cooling drives.
Good luck, from a quiet PC enthusiast.
@@SteelTumbleweed whoever you are, you're a legend.
Your previous advice gave me the courage to put on my big-boy pants and get over my buyer's remorse and pop the hood on this thing and get to know it better.
First eureka (and this is how long it's been since I've delved into PC building world) - I didn't know the BIOS was a mouse-controlled UI, so looking at the Q-Fan control graph I thought it was just a report. Turns out, I can click the friggin' thing, and in there I found out that every fan was set to Max 100%. Wow. I was able to manually set the RPM on them, so they don't even kick on until it starts to get warm in there.
That's almost nothing compared to how much quieter it is since I unplugged the pair of front and top fans - I mean you would have to raise your voice to talk over them, seriously. I figured out how to get the giant frisbee fans out of the top of the case so that whatever heat wants to rise up can pass right through the mesh. I can't imagine doing anything with this PC that would require them any time soon.
The PSU indeed is overspecced, and was part of the reason I went for this purchase since I saw it as future-proofing: as I figure out what my PC needs entail, at least I'll have a decent PSU with plenty of overhead. Once I got rid of the outer case fans, I was able to notice 1) the rear Rosewill fan and the CPU Cooler Master are dead quiet. The other two Rosewills that were now properly RPM-managed were making a bit of noise, like an HDD seeking sound, so they'll be the first ones to get replaced, if at all. Otherwise, the PSU was making the rest of the noise, like the level of a microwave running in an adjacent room with the door closed.
Here's where it gets even better: by getting inside the case and doing some better cable management, I happened to see there's an "ECO" switch right on the PSU that turns its fan off until it reaches a certain load. Presto! Also the previous owner had apparently been using the case as cable storage, because there was a whole shopping bag's-worth of cables plugged into nothing and just randomly stuffed into unused cavities.
So I gutted it down to the essentials, pulled out brackets, re-ran wires (some were even laying across the RAM and CPU heat sinks (?!)), and repositioned the SSDs so that the fans on the HDD bay get maximum air flow. (I wanted to simply remove the whole bay but it's riveted into the case.)
I now have an absolutely silent PC idling at 37C (I can't even hear the CPU fan @ 1315 RPM unless I put my ear next to it). And I have you to thank, for the information and inspiration to research more about how to work with what I already have rather than spending my time researching some other setup and scratching a hole into my head.
I may still opt for a smaller case, understanding your caveat about hotter components, because this thing is so comically large I feel like I should be charging the motherboard rent.
Thanks so much for pointing my time and efforts in the right direction!
Okay. This isn't really a tech tip. Or even a great video. Linus comeon... give them a fair shake and at least try to perform a test where you attempt to affix the heatsinks onto the GPU vram? A normal user would at least attempt to reapply them after they have fallen off.
And can we get some data onscreen. Give us something so we can see the gain/loss.
Edit: 6:37 comeon Linus? You are a tech guy. Not an incompetent non tech guy.
My takeaway from this video was this product is too difficult to install and there are other products that are also difficult to install that will perform better. There really isn't a point in doing further testing
"And can we get some data onscreen. Give us something so we can see the gain/loss." I know right! I'm not expecting GamersNexus level of information but something would be nice
@@alexdavis9324 It really isn't. It's piss-easy to install, he put zero effort into this and appears to have purposefully screwed it up - he's not stupid enough to put heatsinks on chokes instead of mosfets, he just couldn't be bothered to take this seriously. From my own experience, there's basically no aftermarket GPU cooler that can touch this thing short of a full-cover water block, and unlike those blocks that are basically only compatible with extremely specific cards, there's basically no standard form factor single die card you can't put one of these things on - past, present or future - so long as you're willing to actually engage your brain and pay attention to what you're doing. I lost a lot of respect for Linus from this video, he dun screwed this one up badly.
when you are the one of most profitable techtuber in the community, i think its pretty normal to ignore such detail that are time wasting, because you already set for life from youtube algorithm
I have one of these installed on my Vega 64 gpu right now. It was not a difficult installation. My only complaint is that there isn't enough clearance for *some* VRM heatsink - they need to offer to low profile options. Thing is wicked cool and nearly silent under full load.
When you realize he didn't put the heatsink on the MOSFETs
Rip
Yeah I noticed that as well he put them on the choke's, and then runs furmark essentially a power virus program!! 😲
The chokes are like "thanks.... I guess?"
@@stoneymahoney9106 "I think I forgot something. It's not that important if you forgot it. Yeah your right." *MOSFETs sitting in fire crying*
it doesn't even matter because it woulda just fallen off xD
The person who makes the subtitles probably doesn't watch LTT themselves: 0:06 Blowing the Tron 😅
I would like to see this compared to Arctic's variant of add on GPU coolers and NZXT's GPU AIO mounting plate with a few common AIOs
If noise is your key criteria, we already know it's better. Doesn't use noisy undersized fans like AC and has a large heatsink... As for AIO's, they tend to be noisier unless you go with a double or triple rad - and then you're better off with a custom loop.
I suspect the Accelero II or IV would show much better results
My Arctic Accelero knocked 30 degrees off of my RX 480 and is now silent. Amazing bit of kit.
@@ed-te1fp I morely think it's a luck of the draw with AIO's. I use the Kraken G12 bracket with a completely unbranded Asetek AIO that was from a prebuilt in 2016 and my 1080 and AIO is nigh silent only reaching 50 degrees C with an overclock to 2012 MHz stable.
@@BrumBrumBryn I don't think your assumption is correct. A huge FOUR slot cooler, which is what the RanjainTek is, SHOULD be better than the smaller Accelero's. In addition, you cannot easily customize the small fans the Accelero's comes with and you cannot run them slow. In my system, not a single fan runs about 1000 rpm and my 2070 RTX Super is cooled by two high-quality Noctura 900 rpm 120mm fans on this heatsink and is very quiet. I did my research before going for the RaijinTek over the Accelero's, and am pleased with the results.
"Where the heck does D go?"
Linus Sebastian, father of 3
😂😂
I did something similar with an Arctic Accelero Extreme 3 a year ago on a superclocked 1080 from EVGA whose fans were constantly clicking and past warranty. I had such a surprise on the silence, lower temps and greater overclocking. I never hear the graphics card anymore and a bonus is the card's coil whine pretty much became inaudible. If you have a perfectly good but older card out of warranty that has mechanical issues, try something like this. It takes time and patience but worth it. FYI - Arctic's kit was nicely outfitted with accessories like heatsinks, paste etc..
"When Linus casually draws on GPU with marker"
Lmao
@Tejas Ravishankar ok?
After 5 hours you have seen no one has commented so you have added a comment yourself for self-satisfaction, (i will do the same if no replies for this )
7:40 A Linus voice crack. That beard may have made him look more masculine but that voice will stay even on his first grey hair.
@RITA 25 y.o , I WANT SЕЕХ !!!! OPEN MY VIDEO !!!! Why do you put this crap over your profile
"It has a black finish, definitely a FAN of that"
Wow he should’ve made that pun
@@roscoconner9815 man he really should have
Still sticks sexy beige/brown fans on it 🤭
@@TommiPuuska I hate those noctua fans so much. who actually has a beige and brown pc?!
@@wheezel55 They want you to pay more for the black versions (which would probably cost fucking less to manufacture over ones with different colors) of their fans and coolers which I find scummy and greedy. I will never buy a Noctua product, when competition literally do exist which are all comparable or actually better while being cheaper most of the times.
It seemed like you may have installed the heatsink onto the chokes rather than the actual VRM itself, unless I just didn't see that correctly.
There were two slim copper heatsinks, one on the chokes and one on the mosfets. But they fell off anyway so...
@@georgf9279 Yeah, but my point is that the chokes weren't meant to have a heatsink, that heatsink was most likely meant to be directly connected to the VRM. I could be wrong.
@@dgraves14 Trying not to repeat myself: There were two copper heatsinks, one of them was on the mosfets (already). Unless you are somehow able to put two heatsinks in one place, there is no other sensible choice then to put the second one on the chokes.
Mosfets, or their more integrated brethren, "powerstages", are only one of the parts that make up a VoltageRegulaterModule. The chokes are also part of the VRM. Both need cooling the powerstages more so, but the chokes aren't to be neglected either.
7:39 nice voice crack Linus I hope puberty does you well and turn you into a strong handsome young man
Welp. It was obvious for me, but in a different way.
I bought a second hand MSI RTX 2080 Aero with a water block on it, but luckily, the original blower fan was also still there.
I have an AIO watercooler for my CPU, so no custom loop. I cleaned up the waterblock and sold it, put the original (tiny) heatsink and blower fan back on it, to make sure it worked, it did, and so then ordered the Raijintek Morpheus 8057. I removed the blower fan off of the baseplate and glued some small heatsink here and there on it (with thermally conductive glue of course) and then plopped the Raijintek cooler on it. Not only is it near inaudible, it caps at 60 degrees C with the MSI BIOS still controlling the fan speed (Running at around 1050RPM).
So now comes a bit of tweaking with MSI afterburner, to make it completely inaudible and maybe increase the TDP limit and such....
I mean, installing it with the original backplate in place did require a little bit of creativity, but whatever, it is WAY cooler AND more silent than the blower cooler could ever hope to be and in the end, this solution was cheaper than trying to find a 2080 with a proper original cooler, like the strix right now and even with the Strix, I would probably still try to coolmod it with bigger fans, like I've been doing for a long time now with my graphics cards.
I'm just glad that the screws included are a bit thicker than the ones that came with some of the older aftermarket heatsinks, that would strip their own threads after one use.
Well, not old, like Zalman VF700 old, but like the Deepcool V4600.
ANYWAY.... I'm, just happy that these types of aftermarket coolers are still a thing, especially now, when we don't always exactly have a lot of choice in which GPU to get, if we do still want an upgrade, or whatever.
I have the older Morpheus 2, and it's been great on my GTX1070 for the last year or so, and I also didn't lose any of my heat sinks, but it also came with individual sinks for each VRAM chip, & i used some longer included ones on the VRM with great success, tho I'm sure it helped already having a better thermal tape than what was supplied. I plan to move it over onto my next GPU in the next couple years.
Apparently those chokes and capacitors needed cooling more than the vrm did, Thankfully no one comes here for tech tips right?
Is this a video submission for an interview at the verge?
Savage
Keep in mind that they followed exactly like the manual said. Colin literally said "there are so many other components that needs heatsink according to Nvidia" to which Linus responds "according to Raijintek, this is it boys".
@@muhammadkhairulafiq2917 Manual doesn't say anything about cooling chokes instead of fets. The diagram there is pretty bad, yeah but this is a product for enthusiasts with a brain who know that it's the fets that need cooling. Also brain lets you do the 2+2 and install radiators on parts that were covered by thermal pads in the unmodified setup.
@@outcastatsabre "For enthusiast with a brain" hold that right there buckaroo. Before you go off and throwing insult to people around, you also need to keep in mind there are a lot of newcomers and first time enthusiast. Sure to people like us, this is just another day in the office. But are you implying first-time enthusiast is an idiot? That wouldnt be a good image for the community isnt it? With that said, Linus isnt one of them, we all can agree on that.
The main point however, as a electronics product manufacturer, it should be their responsibility to give proper instruction. Plugging a 3 pin plug can be done by a 4 year old, yet many phone manual comes with the instruction on how to on their 'charging' segment. I would say this isnt something a 4 year old can do.
Even how and where to plug your PCIE cards/CPU/RAM are all included and clearly instructed with very good diagram in manuals. I would say those are the easiest things in PC building. Even cable management is more complex.
@@muhammadkhairulafiq2917 "are you implying first-time enthusiast is an idiot?"
I'll imply that sure, First time anyones are idiots generally (being an enthusiast doesn't mean having the most expensive parts fwiw) I've been doing this 20 years and even after 10 I made the odd mistake when I was breaking new ground, Difference being I wasn't proclaiming to offer "tech tips" to millions of people.
Before making a "how to" video it often helps to actually know what the fuck you're talking about otherwise *you are* the verge which linus ridiculed happily, We going to allow double standards now just because of popularity? Why should he, I or anyone be treated differently?
Linus' knows what a choke and a mosfet is and imitating lemmings by doing something stupid just because you're told do is not something to be applauded, Conscientious though should be an option.
The best educations tend to be very expensive sure but that does not mean newcomers should tear down thier £600 graphics card and delidded a £1000 cpu before they have learned on cheaper parts, If something goes wrong (and its more likely for noobs) then it could kill the system and lead to them leaving the community altogether, that's worse than being told off for doing something stupid and learning a lesson.
This is a really good solution too for micro ITX builds where water cooling is impossible. I've been using an Arctic air cooler with 120mm Be Quiet fans in my Node 202 build for a few years and it's been the quietest setups I've ever had with no compromise on space or thermal throttling.
Also after watching further into the vid - the Arctic coolers VRM coolers didn't have any issues with staying on the board or interfering with the cooler itself. And I've only had 1 of the small heatsinks fall off after years of use.
"Hmm.. Looks neat, maybe I should replace -"
"And a heat sink fell off"
"..."
"Aaand there goes another one!"
"..Abort! I repeat, abort!"
And another one down, and another one down. Get stick bugged lol
Hey, hey
You know what song
Get in the groove, babe
Steve walks warily down the street
With the brim pulled way down low
Ain't no sound but the sound of his feet
Machine guns ready to go
Are you ready? Hey, are you ready for this?
Are you hanging on the edge of your seat?
Out of the doorway the bullets rip
To the sound of the beat, yeah, yeah
Yeah, yeah, sing it!
(Another one bites the dust)
One more!
(Another one bites the dust)
And another one gone, and another one gone
Another one bites the dust
Hey, I'm gonna get you too
Another one bites the dust
How do you think I'm going to get along
Without you, when you're gone
You took me for everything that I had
And kicked me out on my own
Are you happy, are you satisfied?
How long can you stand the heat?
Out of the doorway the bullets rip
To the sound of the beat
Hey, hey, hey
Another one bites the dust
(Another one bites the dust)
And another one gone, and another one gone
Another one bites the dust
Hey, I'm gonna get you, too
Another one bites the dust
@@Heilzmaker
Riding in the bus down the boulevard
And the place was pretty packed (yeah!)
Couldn't find a seat so I had to stand
With the perverts in the back
It was smelling like a locker room
There was junk all over the floor
We're already packed in like sardines
But we're stopping to pick up more, look out
Another one rides the bus
Another one rides the bus
Another comes on and another comes on
Another one rides the bus
Hey, he's gonna sit by you
Another one rides the bus
There's a suitcase poking me in the ribs
There's an elbow in my ear
There's a smelly old bum standing next to me
Hasn't showered in a year
I think I'm missing a contact lens
I think my wallet's gone
And I think this bus is stopping again
To let a couple more freaks get on look out
Another one rides the bus
Another one rides the bus
Another comes on and another comes on
Another one rides the bus
Hey, he's gonna sit by you
Another one rides the bus
Another one rides the bus
Another one rides the bus ow
Another one rides the bus hey hey
Another one rides the bus hey-ey-ey-ey
The window doesn't open and the fan is broke
And my face is turning blue (yeah)
I haven't been in a crowd like this
Since I went to see the who
Well I should've got off a couple miles ago
But I couldn't get to the door
There isn't any room for me to breathe
And now we're gonna pick up more
Another one rides the bus
Another one rides the bus
Another comes on and another comes on
Another one rides the bus
Hey, he's gonna sit by you
Another one rides the bus
I bought one way back for my GTX770 because one of the stock fans was dead. As I remember it I didn't have any problems. Maybe quality went down over the years?
Linus is not heatsinking the actual MOSFETS that actually create heat. He's putting it on the capacitors and the CHOKES that don't generate much heat. Do not follow what Linus did, you have to stick the heatsink on the MOSFETS on the right side of the CHOKES.
i agree with you, but i still think the heatsinks would fall off no matter where they were placed and also the test rig seemed stable with most of them missing.
focalpoint that’s true putting it on mosfets that are hotter might make them fall off faster even. Raijintek really just needs better thermal tapes on those.
@@getdrinking usually people use heatglue or clips or tape, it's def possible to get them and some heatsinks on the VRAM and VRMs Amazon has some pretty good and inexpensive options
he followed instructions, which most of us would have done just that cuz "they know what they are doing, and they are telling me to do that" anyway.
Hamza Kamel you’d think he’d know better being a a pc youtuber for so long
I did a fan mod on my asus pheonix rtx 3060 V2 recently and ffs that is a difference in loudness like night and day. the stock fan of the phoenix runs at 1600rpm min and 3000 rpm at max but never got higher as 1700rpm while playing games or benchmarking. But those 1600rpm was so shockingly loud. I removed the cover of my gpu and placed one noctua nf-f12 onto the heatsink, plugged it in one of the case fan headers on my mainboard and controlling it via argus monitor. In idle it runs at around 600rpm at ~35°C and while gaming or benchmarking I set them with a custom curve to 1300rpm and it never goes over 60°C gpu temp and 70°C hot spot.
Luv it. And it's so quiet. So unbelievable quiet.
I've actually been hunting for this solution.
I was just looking at the no longer existing scythe Musashi.
Got one on my Sapphire HD4870. It was awesome compared to stock cooling although one of the fans died after 2 years
Take a look at Arctic's GPU coolers as well. Watching the heatsinks fall off the VRMs does not give me much confidence in this product.
Prolimatech also make the Mk-26 which uses twin 120 / 140mm fans, i had one on my 7870 and i could almost run it passively
Take a look at the NZXT Kraken G12 (or G10), it's hybrid cooling
I run the older Morpheus II (looks like literally the same thing but nickel instead of black) on my 1070 FTW with two Noctua NF-A12's on a fan header adapter/splitter and it runs so much more quiet than the stock already pretty decent cooler. OC'd the snots out of it and it's as quiet/cool as stock at stock settings.
You know what else weighs less??
-My wallet after buying everything you suggested
*Before
Poor pero playar like me
@@johnlionel3166 it is after
bc I have ridge wallet!!
the compact RFID blocking plates put wallet bulge down!!
~.~
"Cost effective"
@@aggy69420 Riiiiiiiidge Waaaaaaallet!
I'd love to see more demos of quiet setups.
I recently picked up a PC tower for the first time in years after watching tons of LTT videos and choosing what specs I think I need for my use case, and although it's an old-yet-powerful PC, I'm astonished at how loud it is. I got it yesterday and after a couple hours spent next to it I couldn't wait to turn it off just to have some peace and quiet again. Last time I had a PC tower (in 2017) it had a nice low whisper hum at idle, and only got noticeably loud when it was under load. The one I now have sounds like a window A/C unit when it's just on idle.
Noise consideration is the one thing I don't know how to shop for (translating dB ranges to real-world experience) when researching components, so these test videos are really helpful.
I'm waiting for Linus to make a video called "robbing the international bank of CPUs"
♀️🚩
Nut you didn't test the VRMs and all the other hitspots on the card. You've done half a job with a full smile. All the heatsinks fell off, so seeing that performance is way more important.
Performance in the short run. If he wanted to run it for a while he would have put it together properly
Phillip Swift
Have you cleaned the Chips bevor applying the thermal tape for the heatsinks?
In my experience the thermal pads of the orginal cooler left some residue (silicone? some kind of hydrocarbons?) on the chips which prevent the thermal tape to glue well. After wiping the chips with alcohol the VRAM Heatsinks sticked very well and never fell off again.
In my opinion Raijintek misses to mention that or even better should add some cleaning wipes for that purpose.
I absolutely LOVE my Morpheus. My room has to be like 85 degrees (F of course) in order for my 1080ti to hit 55C while overclocked.
Why would you use farenheit for your ambient temp and then use celsius for your gpu :PPPP
@@viktorkarlsson5998 My guess is RR watched comp. temperatures (which is usually C even in us systems) and has a temp sensor in their room with farenheit units on it.
7:40 ‘...PCI-E stOoOrage...’
That voice crack tho
For anyone looking to try this, I'd personally recommend the Arctic Xtreme IV if you want to avoid those little heatsink thingies.
7:40 nice voice crack linus 😂😂😂
0:01 yes because i have a hd 3450
And 9 out of 10 times i get the blue screen of *death*
Damn, I know how that goes, I used a Radeon HD 2400 Pro for like six years until 2013 lol
I’m a big fan of products like this that can help mitigate thermal overheating and crazy fan noise in a soundless solution. 10:28
*linus draws on graphics card* Me: why just why
BoxTurtlePlays it was a dry erase marker
cause he makes money out of this, all the ways
it was just dry erase bro!!!
You : "OH! I can type da cooment abowt dis"
Comment section : "srs just fudge off m8 fu"
You : "dab dab yeet skeet me maed da funny maymay coomint hurr durr 🤤"
Maymays intensifies etc.
th-cam.com/video/0DCAMcSp5mM/w-d-xo.html
I thought this was a revisit of the Strix 1070 with Noctua Fans
I want a revisit of the Thermosiphon
I always wondered why you guys never made a video in this it has been out for awhile now I have one and absolutely love my gtx 1080 never sees temps above 56°c anymore. Although I'm not sure how you guys set this up because none of my heatsinks fell off. Also you should get a gpu fan header splitter to 4pin headers so you can control the fan curve from the gpu directly
Really nice to hear Linus actually giving tips and sharing wisdoms from experience along the way. Not saying he doesn't do that enough, but it's great when a channel continues to live up to its name, no matter how huge it gets. Thanks LTT.
*The wisdom of dropping*
0:24 "Who's the idiot now".
"Well there's this guy called Linus on TH-cam... mhmmm, yep makes tech videos, that's the guy"
AMAZING of you to point to Tech Ingredients' channel !! Eventhough you'd think they're clickbaity, their content definitely ISN'T ! It's the greatest science channel on the whole of TH-cam !
Now I want a comparison to the "Accelero Xtreme IV" GPU cooler
Performance is very good, installation is strange and i don't know, if the double sided cooling concept is the optimum, but for less money it certainly appealed to me and i'm very happy with it on a rx480.
The Arctic Accelero Xtreme III is a more comparable product to the one Linus used. Only difference is it comes with thermal paste instead of tape/pads
@@lowstryder1022 you are right, it is more comparable.
@@macht4turbo got one on a 2070s, very happy aswell :D, silent and a lot of cooling.
ADUB Had to put the III on my 1080ti FTW3 and I can say it runs spectacular as well. Haven’t seen it go past 63 degrees C. Glad to hear the IV on the 2070 is running well too! Niche products but they work great!
I'm honestly surprised at the negative review - the product did everything it claimed and beat Linus' two metrics - easier and cheaper than watercooling with good performance. I can't wait to replace my horrendously loud and inefficient stock cooler on my 2080ti FE
Two of mine came broken lol
I'm running a Morpheus 2 on my 1080ti and I can't recommend these giant heatsinks enough. They're fantastic, albeit a little unwieldy to mount.
Did Linus just draw with a sharpie on his GPU. 😂
expo
I think this is for people who just ran and bought the stock GPU and now regret it's noise and thermal performance.
for peoples like me who bought a low profile blower design who sound like a vaccum just to spend less money
Already 10 years ago, I took the GPU fans off with the plastic cover, and put normal bigger fans on that are run from the motherboard settings. Then you can adjust speed nicely yourself. So with a 3080TI or so, just take everything off and mount 2x12cm Noctua's. This thick GPU look Linus is showing, is so familiair.
"I'm not comfortable with water cooling"
Let me just rip apart my $1000 GPU though
@Oscar Curtis Games Why don't you ask Joe Mama.
@Oscar Curtis Games *you're
@Oscar Curtis Games *being
Kl
Installing Morpheus was very comfortable for me compared to custom water cooling.
steve watched this video and seen the vrm cooling and instantly got a few grays lol
Ok, but in which slot did they attach the fan's calbes? just a random spot? wouldn't that make it less efficient? like, the gpu is at 100% but the fans are running at the same speed. I tought about doing the exact same thing with my alienware aurora r10, but there isn't a precise spot for "gpu fans", i don't know what to do, please help!
I've been using the Core version, the one you showed they used the pictures from. The adhesive with mine was way stronger and I didn't get mismatched heatsinks. I basically just got a million single heatsinks that fit perfectly on one memory module.
Didnt get any copper ones either and I havent had a single one fall off after 2 years
Highly recommend the Core II over the 8057 or whatever this is
*"The Chosen One?"* is the Intro Title to this video.
I'm the hand of god?
Z
I put this on a 2080 (non Ti) that was pulled off my old rig. It was a water cooled 2080 but my buddy wasn't comfortable with water cooling. This was the best solution.
Combined with thermoconductive epoxy and we have a winner. I set the fans to stay at 900 or so RPM. Silent and effective. This is a great product. With a good thermoconductive epoxy.
lol he seems so proud to announce sponsors as if he loves the torture
He gets the money
the sponsor hasn't even shipped those headphones to thier crowdfund backers, you won't be seeing those for a really long time. BUYNOW
4:26
Yeah, he doesn't look like the kind of guy who would know where the "D" goes😂
It goes after the “C”
@@ImmaSpam__________________Can I think you mean before E
you dirty minded fu-
@@zerorequiem6016
-E-
6:30 it actually will affect performance. GPUs require a lot of thermal paste and need to be smeared evenly, the opposite of what CPUs require. You should know this based on the video you made about the chinese AIO CPU + GPU video you released on January 1st 2020.
Riing riing! "Who is it?" "LTT phone-in review!" ;-)
I'm glad I wasn't the only one who noticed.
"phone-in review" what does that mean?
@@__Mr.White__ dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/phone-sth-in
Little did he know...
I use the Accelero Xtreme IV. Dropped my FE 1080Ti down from 84c and the noise of a hoover, to 55c without the fans spinning up (as in from their lowest speed). A few weeks later it now hits 70c max, but fans still don't really speed up. Massively helped my tinnitus!
me watching the intro knowing that my laptop spins up when I open chrome....
"Stay stapped or get clapped."
-Fred Rogers
I've got the Morpheus 2 on a Zotac 1080Ti... Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy... separately purchased RAM chip heatsinks... and 2 CoolerMaster JetFlo fans setup as exhaust fans, directly against the GPU heatsink... all crammed into a Small Form-Factor Desktop style case (Silverstone). The noise level with this setup is significantly lower for SFF builds that can fit all of that, and I'd say it was well worth the money and the effort. The Zotac is not a great design, but with RAM at 7GHz and Core at 2GHz, I never get any throttling and it's easily the quietest build I've ever had.
Linus Media Group: How much cooling are we going to add?
Linus: Yes