Any advice on how to fix a container house with tubing frames that are now dripping like crazy in the winter due to thermal bridging and condensation? We did drill holes and thought our spray foam guys filled them, but we are finding they are not full. If we do fill the tubes with foam, will that stop the condensation?
No, it won't stop it. It might marginally help by keeping the cold air out of the inside of the tube. The steel is a conductor and will transfer cold/hot freely whether there's foam inside or not. You should not be able to see the tubing from inside. If it is exposed, you haven't finished the interior up to the actual window properly. You need 2" of foam against the tubing then finish over that. If your house isn't spray foamed, it'll be doing that in your walls as well which is going to cause health problems or constant fatigue. I had black mold in my bedroom growing up and once we spray foamed our basement, it made a world of difference.
Seriously Thank You For Your TH-cam Channel I've Been absorbing as much as possible since you have a treasure trove of knowledge here and I plan to convert one or two containers into a work shop/ storage unit on my property, so thank you very much and, God Bless and may you continue to grow and prosper.
@blowjoe134 thinking to wrap the outside in tyvek then put nailer bats, leave a gap for airflow attach 2 inches of hard foam sheets then cedar board and bat over that. Do you think that will stop condensation? That means 3/4 inches of cedar ...2 inches of foil backed foam board ... tyvek.. what do you think?
My first real job out of high school was doing this. One man show. I done all the repairs, window/ door installation, grinding and painting for two years. Sent allot of units out to Roswell back then. Done it from 1986 to 1989.
I’ve been looking at shipping container designs and working with them for over 30 years and this channel has the most complete modifications for sale from anyone I’ve ever seen
Subbed. I built the Google barges. 10 hours, 7 days a week for several months. We did all kinds of mods, then started connecting the 40ft containers on a barge 4 long, 4 wide, and 4 high. That's when the coast guard came by and asked us what we were doing. Long story short, we had to take it all apart and build them to code. Good times.
Oh how I wish your company was closer to the Caribbean.!!! I am stickler for getting things done right the 1st time. Your attention to quality, details and innovation is inspiring and exceptional ! Bravo!
Should blast prior to welding in place. Can even prime with weld-through primer immediately after blast, too. The tubing is the strongest frame and an inner flange/lip to foam to and provide a thermal break is easily installed to get optimal results, especially if using triple pane windows in extruded glass filled polymer frames. I'm a retired Industrial Design Engineer and these types of issues were all in a day's work for me. Good to see young craftsmen at work!
Hi Steve, I hear ya. We have a 4ft blast cabinet and I wanted the guys to blast them ahead of time but the compressor wasn't working that day. You should check out some of our other videos and frame designs that have way less thermal bridging than NAAMM commercial steel door frames. Our window kits allow the spray foam to come right up to the vinyl window (perfect vapor barrier) which is an argument to stick with vinyl although I want to play around with sealed glass units. For another project unrelated to shipping containers, we're working on a thermally broke, extruded aluminum sealed glass window frame design that is going to be amazing, but nobody would pay for it on a container mod.
How do you blast the inside of the tube ? Not very well . Then how do you seal the inside of the tube ? I don't understand why they need square tubing to begin with .
@@pat36a Number one reason its done is that engineers feel its easy way to weld continuously to the corrugations, plus you can weld plates to carry flanges, bulkhead connectors and electrical connectors and so on. The sheet metal window frames address the building envelope thermal bridging issues but there need to be thicker metal versions that can allow the welding of a plate on the inside. Then that plate makes it easy to carry any pipe or electrical connector. Plus its recessed so you can have outside weather covers.
We use 1.5 × 2, 11 ga tubing for frames. We drill a 3/8 hole in both ends on the interior and fill with foam. None of our frames have had interior frost on the coldest of days.
Very good tip, but could you have shown us the way you would have done it if you had the bent material. It was just a quick pic and it would have been nice to see the process.
Here is our video with the Container Modification World® framing kit: th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html CMW website: containermodificationworld.com
If you do a proper cut, clean, weld, primer, and paint job, you are not going to have problems with the frame rusting. Spray the frame and weld with phosphoric acid, and it will neutralize any rust. It also acts as a primer. Most people don't take the time to do it right.
Exactly. This is the normal method of container repairs approved and it is certified for marine use. If you don’t do a good job of surface preparation, weld and proper primer and paint job then it will rust. That’s not the problem with the method but the execution.
Correct, Seems to be a scare tactic into getting folks to buy something they dont need. These containers are no longer traveling the salt water seas so the rust factor drops depending on your location. The thought anyone thinks they will live longer than these take to rust when properly prepped is BS craziness.
Don't like rust, start out with new steel tubing(not something from a scrap yard that's been laying on the ground outside). After the frame is fabricated and welded in place to container side. Drill a small hole in each corner and fill with expanding spray foam. You'll have 2'' of spray foam inside window frames.
Can you show how you maintain structural integrity and thermal brake on your openings. How about some simple floor/structural designs in your portfolio .
Could you drill holes on the inside of the window frame pump some spray foam in there probably would eliminate 95% of the cold and heat transfer through steel frame tubing
I get what you mean but in florida where im at, coldest it gets here is 60 degrees F so that might be perfect for here letting in a little heat for the extra storm protection
Wow. I didn't know this was a thing. I feel like I would be a great candidate to come up with a practical design. I have a lot of reading to do... Thanks for getting my wheels turning
I see wrapping something in aluminum helps. One thing people may not know is that (8' wide) steel 40' standard height containers fit inside (8'6" wide) 53' aluminum containers. Stuff a steel can in an aluminum can then shield your electronics inside the steel 40' 🤷
@@TheContainerGuyTV Ive read that the only issues with a container being the perfect Faraday cage are the door seala and occasional sloppy corner welding. Apparently there are containers made to adapt to EMP protection but I cant find the provider.
Great info. Thanks, always use your info. Building a home, with containers. Would like to build a 3 container wide living room. How to? Any suģgestions! Much appreciated.
Structurally reinforce the floor and header. If going 3 wide, make sure you have a sloped roof above the top level of containers. Get an engineer to review your design (don't get an engineer to design it).
I want to build a shipping container in Puerto Rico where it’s hot all year round 70- 90 + depending on the season. can I weld a 2”x2” welded frame. Will it cause problems with the heat.
Planning on getting a 40' container for wood storage. Live in Maine USA, would I need foam inside or just vents to prevent sweating inside? Thank you. As well as do you deliver to Maine? 👍
I'm getting ready to set 2 20' containers with 8' space between the 2. Then setting a 3rd 20' container on top of the 2 lower units to fill the space , with the top unit over hanging in the front. How many concrete piers should i put in for that set up?
I'm not a structural engineer, sorry. The arrangement doesn't sound like the best use of shipping containers as a structure. You'll need less than 8ft between them if you want to stack on top the corner posts but given the overhang, that's out the window. Also, use metal screw piles if you can instead of concrete.
How do you get the project professional engineer to approve sheet metal frames ? Most engineers have a hard on for welded frames because they have to sign off and stamp the drawings for the container and want to err on the side of safety.
It's been a long road to get to where we are now. We had to start with modelling shipping containers from scratch so our FEA analysis actually works. We can then run all the theoretical calculations for the structural engineer and show the stress analysis. This is a tremendous amount of time savings for them and gets them off on the right foot. They can then analyze the vertical (web) portion of the sheet metal profile in conjunction with the corrugations that are left remaining to calculate the span characteristics. We've cut a lot of holes into the sides of containers and know where our frames have "failed" in the past. It's starting to feel like second nature nowadays around our engineering office on what gauge thickness to choose and the size of web required for X span. Another huge thing to consider is converting the container to a container-based structure. Containers have way higher wind loads and snow loads than a building needs in most areas so you can weaken the overall structure and still have a high safety factor.
great info and videos. I appreciate your attention to details, and thoughtful process to make the most of the investment/projects. Question: do you recomend any sales/companies in the Oakland California area? there are too many to sort through. I am planning a container shop/barn build in the Bay Area.
The metal is still continuous and would still frost. You'd need to seal both sides with foam to prevent the moisture from collecting/damming on the surface.
My apologies. I agree that it should have been in the video. Here is a window framing kit install that gives you an idea of how we frame openings. th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html
Back in the mid 80’s, a GRP company I worked for, made moulds for a sectional roof to fit containers, they were a hipped roof with either a double Roman, or flat tiled effect. Strangely, I never saw one fitted. I wonder if they were premature in designing something like that. I’m in the UK btw.
I really like your channel. It’s full of great information. Can you refer a competent mechanical contractor for work in southwestern Florida? I’ve gone through 4 welders w/ less than satisfactory results.
Thanks for watching. Glad you're enjoying it and learning. Unfortunately I'm from Saskatchewan and don't have much for contacts down there. You're not alone...
I don't understand why you didn't use angle iron? that tubing is a real bad idea it'll start rusting from the inside one thing I've learned from the tropics tubing is not the way to go. Especially if you're going to be spray foaming the inside the insulated condensation is a big problem.
just watched your 40 ft reefer container how they work video that's in your accessories link brand new containers sure are nice one thing though you repeatedly state that the airflow comes out the top and then returns to the bottom that is incorrect. supply air exits the bottom of the unit and returns to the top.
Interesting. We don't have 460v so I wasn't able to power it. The diesel Thermo King reefers are 100% supplied through the roof (a long tarp suspended from the ceiling as a duct that would collapse if it was a return line) and return through the floor. Funny that TK would switch the airflow on electric units.
@@TheContainerGuyTV that's correct truck and trailer units Supply Air from the top often utilizing an air chute. However they often do not utilize a chute especially in LTL (less than Trailer Load)and truck applications. The container Refrigeration industry on the other hand is completely opposite among virtually all the major manufacturers Thermo King, carrier, Daikin, star cool, you name it. reasons are various and have a lot to do with the configuration and Logistics of the unit itself.
@@MikeDPlxztc Wow. Thanks for the education. I guess I'm misinforming the public a bit with this video although I'm not sure anyone is that concerned with the direction of airflow - they'll figure it out once the turn it on haha. Hopefully they read your comment/advice. Thanks again - I appreciate being corrected when I'm wrong. The purpose of our channel is to squash all the misinformation out there and I do my best not to contribute although I'm not perfect.
No worries I'm not trying to criticize or anything like that I'm just triggered🤪 because I am a reefer mechanic of 36 years. Lol. Enjoying your videos at least the ones I have had a chance to watch trust me you have something to teach me too I know how to repair them but I've never built a house out of one hahaha it's in the works👍
The only better way I can suggest instead of hollow tubing you use angle iron and you put the flange on the inside,Then you mount some wood inside the flange and you mount your window to that.
On those frames if you drill the hole one on the top and one on the bottom and get a can of spray foam you should should be able to insulate the inside of those.
Container Guy would it impossible for you to assist me with some framing in South Africa. I just noticed this video now and I have a project with fairly decent deadlines but the only problem is going to be delsy in shipping. What can be done? Humbly, Warren
Hi Warren. The video coming out this weekend touches on steel stud framing. You can send photos of your mod to mods@thecontainerguy.ca and we can provide suggestions/advice.
@@TheContainerGuyTV galvinic corrison has always been an issue with containers when it comes to windows and doors. It seems like you prefer rivets over welding, have you not any residue rust markings coming off where the rivets are? With older units I mean...
@@warrenllorente2993 regular mig wire or 7018 rods (what everyone uses) are not the correct welding consumable for Corten steel and cause the same corrosion. Way less paint is affected by a drill hole. Silicone prior to mounting the frame and the backside of the river if it's a concern. It'll last.
Could something be installed as a thermal break between the windows & steel and also cover the steel face inside? What about an anti-condensation product to put on the steel inside?
I've watched a bunch of your videos, and have come to the conclusion that shipping can guest quartes won't be cost effective for us after all. The more you know 🌈⭐️
I really dont think spraying foam inside is a good idea. You have isocyanate's gassing off for a few years and you will be breathing them. After Katrina the US house thousands of people in trailers and they got sick after a few months from the chemical's inside. I you are planning to live in a container you have to understand that is a watertight structure, so any chemicals in construction materials WILL impact your heath. You can spray Hemp for start on the inside, (expensive but the best) and foam on the outside. that will give you the ideal R insulation rating. If they would have insulated from the outside, the window framing would not be an issue. The frame s would be buried in the foam. That guy is obviously not qualified to discuss this topic.
@@chucknorris277 is ALWAYS right. The health of the breaker panels and exhaust fans will not be adversely affected in this structure. If I was to build a container home, I would encapsulate the container in spray foam from the outside then finish the exterior to blend in with surrounding infrastructure. I am the guy in the video and I am qualified to provide the public my opinion, experience, and wisdom. There are few people on the planet with more practical experience than myself.
@@TheContainerGuyTV what would the advantage of having a container house with such quantity of steel in your walls and then encapsulate it with spray foam in the exterior which you will need to frame to cover it?. It sounds like repetitive and duplicate work and materials, a lot of money, a lot of labor hours.
The prob with galvanized and using cold galvanizing is paint adhesion. Considering the excuse thrown out for not removing mill scale I have to imagine it's a money issue. The comment about being unable to remove mill scale realllllyyyyy irked me. Why can't it be removed.... like before welding it into the container wall or even before welding up the frame. I don't modify containers but I do a fair bit of work on steel truck frames. I cannot imagine making up some excuse to not remove rust or scale before painting.
Why not just buy a press brake and form 10 foot lengths of your frames yourself. Notch them out to the specific sizes required when a custom opening job comes along. Maybe its time for a custom notching and cutting station that allows quick setup to cut bars to any opening size. Perhaps leave the actual forming operation of stock long bars to your sheet metal contractor so you always have enough bars available.
If you're going to drill a bunch of holes, why not use them to structurally rivet or bolt a laser cut/folded frame to the container and eliminate the welding process and painting process entirely?
@@TheContainerGuyTV If it's a 3' pc drill a hole every 6" on one side of the tube. (Inside the structure so you can from fill it . That way it is installed. ( I did this on a counter we made in to an office /1bd rm)
@@robertroberts5218 there are methods to thermally break an exterior frame from an interior frame if it was warranted. A Container Modification World 14 Ga frame is a similar concept to any NAAMM door frame and given it's installed before spray foam, it's superior to most installations. www.naamm.org/store/product/13/guide-specifications-for-commercial-hollow-metal-doors-frames
@@andrewdarbyshire9108 that is essentially what our frame is but laser cut and folded. Not run-of-the-mill channel iron. See here: th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html
Would not recommend spray foam, it catches fire easily. Using bat insulation is the way to go, but you can't lay it against the container walls, first put a vapor protection over the steel way then lay the bat insulation over it
Here is a video for you to watch: th-cam.com/video/i8eMoXMf530/w-d-xo.html Vapour barriers must be on the inside of the wall system. Poly vapour barriers and batt insulation needs a wall cavity that breathes. The steel container does not breathe. I would NEVER use anything other than spray foam. A wall system as you suggest will create condensation between the container and vapour barrier and the batt insulation will act as a filter, not insulation.
I'd hate it too if I couldn't sell you something that you dont really need for a problem you never knew you had. Nothing wrong with welding in door and window frames. It's a conex box not the Thaj Mahal for F-sake.
I get it your a sales man , but damn man I'd rather get a window off fb market and slap some angle iron on that opening than pay for your frame. Bashing a lot of people doesn't get you far in sales
Any advice on how to fix a container house with tubing frames that are now dripping like crazy in the winter due to thermal bridging and condensation? We did drill holes and thought our spray foam guys filled them, but we are finding they are not full. If we do fill the tubes with foam, will that stop the condensation?
No, it won't stop it. It might marginally help by keeping the cold air out of the inside of the tube. The steel is a conductor and will transfer cold/hot freely whether there's foam inside or not.
You should not be able to see the tubing from inside. If it is exposed, you haven't finished the interior up to the actual window properly. You need 2" of foam against the tubing then finish over that.
If your house isn't spray foamed, it'll be doing that in your walls as well which is going to cause health problems or constant fatigue. I had black mold in my bedroom growing up and once we spray foamed our basement, it made a world of difference.
2” foam outside then side it
Seriously Thank You For Your TH-cam Channel I've Been absorbing as much as possible since you have a treasure trove of knowledge here and I plan to convert one or two containers into a work shop/ storage unit on my property, so thank you very much and, God Bless and may you continue to grow and prosper.
@blowjoe134 thinking to wrap the outside in tyvek then put nailer bats, leave a gap for airflow attach 2 inches of hard foam sheets then cedar board and bat over that. Do you think that will stop condensation? That means 3/4 inches of cedar ...2 inches of foil backed foam board ... tyvek.. what do you think?
My first real job out of high school was doing this. One man show. I done all the repairs, window/ door installation, grinding and painting for two years. Sent allot of units out to Roswell back then. Done it from 1986 to 1989.
I’ve been looking at shipping container designs and working with them for over 30 years and this channel has the most complete modifications for sale from anyone I’ve ever seen
Subbed. I built the Google barges. 10 hours, 7 days a week for several months. We did all kinds of mods, then started connecting the 40ft containers on a barge 4 long, 4 wide, and 4 high. That's when the coast guard came by and asked us what we were doing. Long story short, we had to take it all apart and build them to code. Good times.
Oh how I wish your company was closer to the Caribbean.!!! I am stickler for getting things done right the 1st time. Your attention to quality, details and innovation is inspiring and exceptional ! Bravo!
We wish we were there too haha
Ship it.
Should blast prior to welding in place. Can even prime with weld-through primer immediately after blast, too. The tubing is the strongest frame and an inner flange/lip to foam to and provide a thermal break is easily installed to get optimal results, especially if using triple pane windows in extruded glass filled polymer frames. I'm a retired Industrial Design Engineer and these types of issues were all in a day's work for me. Good to see young craftsmen at work!
Hi Steve, I hear ya. We have a 4ft blast cabinet and I wanted the guys to blast them ahead of time but the compressor wasn't working that day. You should check out some of our other videos and frame designs that have way less thermal bridging than NAAMM commercial steel door frames. Our window kits allow the spray foam to come right up to the vinyl window (perfect vapor barrier) which is an argument to stick with vinyl although I want to play around with sealed glass units.
For another project unrelated to shipping containers, we're working on a thermally broke, extruded aluminum sealed glass window frame design that is going to be amazing, but nobody would pay for it on a container mod.
How do you blast the inside of the tube ? Not very well . Then how do you seal the inside of the tube ?
I don't understand why they need square tubing to begin with .
@@pat36a Number one reason its done is that engineers feel its easy way to weld continuously to the corrugations, plus you can weld plates to carry flanges, bulkhead connectors and electrical connectors and so on. The sheet metal window frames address the building envelope thermal bridging issues but there need to be thicker metal versions that can allow the welding of a plate on the inside. Then that plate makes it easy to carry any pipe or electrical connector. Plus its recessed so you can have outside weather covers.
We use 1.5 × 2, 11 ga tubing for frames. We drill a 3/8 hole in both ends on the interior and fill with foam. None of our frames have had interior frost on the coldest of days.
Great tips mate, you can’t argue with someone that knows their craft👌🇦🇺
Thank you sir!
Very good tip, but could you have shown us the way you would have done it if you had the bent material. It was just a quick pic and it would have been nice to see the process.
Here is our video with the Container Modification World® framing kit: th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html
CMW website:
containermodificationworld.com
I agree. He did alot of talking but never showed us how he would have built them. I was very disappointed. I wanted to see.
Nice to have you back.
Sir, you have integrity, Lord Bless yer business.
If you do a proper cut, clean, weld, primer, and paint job, you are not going to have problems with the frame rusting. Spray the frame and weld with phosphoric acid, and it will neutralize any rust. It also acts as a primer.
Most people don't take the time to do it right.
Exactly. This is the normal method of container repairs approved and it is certified for marine use. If you don’t do a good job of surface preparation, weld and proper primer and paint job then it will rust. That’s not the problem with the method but the execution.
Correct, Seems to be a scare tactic into getting folks to buy something they dont need. These containers are no longer traveling the salt water seas so the rust factor drops depending on your location. The thought anyone thinks they will live longer than these take to rust when properly prepped is BS craziness.
Don't like rust, start out with new steel tubing(not something from a scrap yard that's been laying on the ground outside). After the frame is fabricated and welded in place to container side. Drill a small hole in each corner and fill with expanding spray foam. You'll have 2'' of spray foam inside window frames.
Can you show how you maintain structural integrity and thermal brake on your openings. How about some simple floor/structural designs in your portfolio .
I often thought about shipping containers and modifications. Thank you for the info.
Keep up the good work. You motivate me to imitate you.
Here is a Container Home Video Tour with windows framed incorrectly: th-cam.com/video/VxCrLFzv-E4/w-d-xo.html
Could you drill holes on the inside of the window frame pump some spray foam in there probably would eliminate 95% of the cold and heat transfer through steel frame tubing
Why couldn't you drill a few holes in the square tubes and fill them with spray foam.
Came here to say the same exact thing.
Would still be a thermal bridge
Hello learning a lot from you. From Puerto Rico like your videos
Thanks for watching!
I get what you mean but in florida where im at, coldest it gets here is 60 degrees F so that might be perfect for here letting in a little heat for the extra storm protection
GR8 Mate, New sub, Cheers from Western Australia
Thank you! Love your videos, and your company!
Thank you!
how about drilling a hole in the tubing and fill it up with foam? so its not hollow anymore.
Would it still conduct electricity? If yes, it'll still transfer temperatures
Always learn something, the proper way.👌
Watching the second time. We have some containers that we plan on to mod the windows and we be sure to order the window frame from you.
Would filling the tubing with foam help with the winter condensation?
Hi, do you know anything about shipping containers and EMP protection? Thanks.
Wow. I didn't know this was a thing. I feel like I would be a great candidate to come up with a practical design. I have a lot of reading to do... Thanks for getting my wheels turning
I see wrapping something in aluminum helps. One thing people may not know is that (8' wide) steel 40' standard height containers fit inside (8'6" wide) 53' aluminum containers. Stuff a steel can in an aluminum can then shield your electronics inside the steel 40' 🤷
@@TheContainerGuyTV Ive read that the only issues with a container being the perfect Faraday cage are the door seala and occasional sloppy corner welding. Apparently there are containers made to adapt to EMP protection but I cant find the provider.
Great info. Thanks, always use your info. Building a home, with containers. Would like to build a 3 container wide living room. How to? Any suģgestions! Much appreciated.
Structurally reinforce the floor and header. If going 3 wide, make sure you have a sloped roof above the top level of containers. Get an engineer to review your design (don't get an engineer to design it).
I want to build a shipping container in Puerto Rico where it’s hot all year round 70- 90 + depending on the season. can I weld a 2”x2” welded frame. Will it cause problems with the heat.
Can you frame a container window and doors with wood intend of steel to avoid condensation?
Planning on getting a 40' container for wood storage. Live in Maine USA, would I need foam inside or just vents to prevent sweating inside? Thank you. As well as do you deliver to Maine? 👍
Thanks for this video brother.
I'm getting ready to set 2 20' containers with 8' space between the 2. Then setting a 3rd 20' container on top of the 2 lower units to fill the space , with the top unit over hanging in the front. How many concrete piers should i put in for that set up?
I'm not a structural engineer, sorry. The arrangement doesn't sound like the best use of shipping containers as a structure. You'll need less than 8ft between them if you want to stack on top the corner posts but given the overhang, that's out the window. Also, use metal screw piles if you can instead of concrete.
Could you fill the window framing tubes with insulation foam, maybe each L-shaped half, trim off excess foam and weld together?
How do you get the project professional engineer to approve sheet metal frames ? Most engineers have a hard on for welded frames because they have to sign off and stamp the drawings for the container and want to err on the side of safety.
It's been a long road to get to where we are now. We had to start with modelling shipping containers from scratch so our FEA analysis actually works. We can then run all the theoretical calculations for the structural engineer and show the stress analysis. This is a tremendous amount of time savings for them and gets them off on the right foot. They can then analyze the vertical (web) portion of the sheet metal profile in conjunction with the corrugations that are left remaining to calculate the span characteristics.
We've cut a lot of holes into the sides of containers and know where our frames have "failed" in the past. It's starting to feel like second nature nowadays around our engineering office on what gauge thickness to choose and the size of web required for X span.
Another huge thing to consider is converting the container to a container-based structure. Containers have way higher wind loads and snow loads than a building needs in most areas so you can weaken the overall structure and still have a high safety factor.
great info and videos. I appreciate your attention to details, and thoughtful process to make the most of the investment/projects. Question: do you recomend any sales/companies in the Oakland California area? there are too many to sort through. I am planning a container shop/barn build in the Bay Area.
Why don’t you drill a hole on the inside where the window goes and spray form inside to prevent it from getting cold
The metal is still continuous and would still frost.
You'd need to seal both sides with foam to prevent the moisture from collecting/damming on the surface.
Great video looking for ideas right now for my container
It would be nice if you could show us the correct install, instead of just telling us it’s wrong.
My apologies. I agree that it should have been in the video. Here is a window framing kit install that gives you an idea of how we frame openings. th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html
Man's gotta do... what a man's gotta do
Great video keep up the great work from Manitoba
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing great information.
please go on .
Back in the mid 80’s, a GRP company I worked for, made moulds for a sectional roof to fit containers, they were a hipped roof with either a double Roman, or flat tiled effect.
Strangely, I never saw one fitted.
I wonder if they were premature in designing something like that.
I’m in the UK btw.
I really like your channel. It’s full of great information. Can you refer a competent mechanical contractor for work in southwestern Florida? I’ve gone through 4 welders w/ less than satisfactory results.
Thanks for watching. Glad you're enjoying it and learning. Unfortunately I'm from Saskatchewan and don't have much for contacts down there. You're not alone...
Thanks for the Tip!
I don't understand why you didn't use angle iron? that tubing is a real bad idea it'll start rusting from the inside one thing I've learned from the tropics tubing is not the way to go. Especially if you're going to be spray foaming the inside the insulated condensation is a big problem.
Yeah angle iron is my plan
That’s what he said.
Why can't you install an extraction fan to prevent condensation?
How can you recommend angle iron over tubing? I was thinking to use tubing on my container
Could always drill holes in the square stock and spray oil inside. Fluid film
just watched your 40 ft reefer container how they work video that's in your accessories link brand new containers sure are nice one thing though you repeatedly state that the airflow comes out the top and then returns to the bottom that is incorrect. supply air exits the bottom of the unit and returns to the top.
Interesting. We don't have 460v so I wasn't able to power it. The diesel Thermo King reefers are 100% supplied through the roof (a long tarp suspended from the ceiling as a duct that would collapse if it was a return line) and return through the floor. Funny that TK would switch the airflow on electric units.
@@TheContainerGuyTV that's correct truck and trailer units Supply Air from the top often utilizing an air chute. However they often do not utilize a chute especially in LTL (less than Trailer Load)and truck applications. The container Refrigeration industry on the other hand is completely opposite among virtually all the major manufacturers Thermo King, carrier, Daikin, star cool, you name it. reasons are various and have a lot to do with the configuration and Logistics of the unit itself.
@@MikeDPlxztc Wow. Thanks for the education. I guess I'm misinforming the public a bit with this video although I'm not sure anyone is that concerned with the direction of airflow - they'll figure it out once the turn it on haha. Hopefully they read your comment/advice. Thanks again - I appreciate being corrected when I'm wrong. The purpose of our channel is to squash all the misinformation out there and I do my best not to contribute although I'm not perfect.
No worries I'm not trying to criticize or anything like that I'm just triggered🤪 because I am a reefer mechanic of 36 years. Lol. Enjoying your videos at least the ones I have had a chance to watch trust me you have something to teach me too I know how to repair them but I've never built a house out of one hahaha it's in the works👍
Very good
The only better way I can suggest instead of hollow tubing you use angle iron and you put the flange on the inside,Then you mount some wood inside the flange and you mount your window to that.
Great video!!!!
On those frames if you drill the hole one on the top and one on the bottom and get a can of spray foam you should should be able to insulate the inside of those.
Thanks for the good info! 😊
Great info ...Thanks
Great video
Good info
thank you
I'd make it a condition of modification that they utilise your method?
Great video as usual. Can you provide 2 pictures of a similar window? A good one and a bad one for reference. That would be awesome Thank you.
We should be able to do this as a Community Post on our TH-cam channel. I'll try to gather pictures this week. We have examples of both in our yard.
Here's a Container Home Video with some more details: th-cam.com/video/VxCrLFzv-E4/w-d-xo.html
@@TheContainerGuyTV A very fast reply. Unusual for TH-cam. Thank you so much from a subscriber.
Is there anything for a multi-level system?
Show us MORE about your devices for the openings.
Container Guy would it impossible for you to assist me with some framing in South Africa. I just noticed this video now and I have a project with fairly decent deadlines but the only problem is going to be delsy in shipping. What can be done?
Humbly,
Warren
Hi Warren. The video coming out this weekend touches on steel stud framing. You can send photos of your mod to mods@thecontainerguy.ca and we can provide suggestions/advice.
@@TheContainerGuyTV galvinic corrison has always been an issue with containers when it comes to windows and doors. It seems like you prefer rivets over welding, have you not any residue rust markings coming off where the rivets are? With older units I mean...
@@TheContainerGuyTV I will send you a mail shortly. Thank you for being generous with your time
@@warrenllorente2993 regular mig wire or 7018 rods (what everyone uses) are not the correct welding consumable for Corten steel and cause the same corrosion. Way less paint is affected by a drill hole. Silicone prior to mounting the frame and the backside of the river if it's a concern. It'll last.
@@TheContainerGuyTV that's right. Sadly there are so many guys using the wrong filler wire becuase they do not really understand corten steel.
How much one is one these these one containers after the renovation?
Hie how can I find spraying form starf for interior shipping container I also in that business in Zimbabwe
Where do I get these windows at I am buying a container looking for these windows how do I get Windows so I don't have to weld them
containermodificationworld.com/
keep it going
Per IBC or RBC code does the spray foam not need a fire barrier whether it is sheetrock or an intuminescent barrier coating?
Occupied buildings should have it covered, yes. Here's our video with drywall and fire rated plywood: th-cam.com/video/xB59Ohod9bU/w-d-xo.html
Could something be installed as a thermal break between the windows & steel and also cover the steel face inside? What about an anti-condensation product to put on the steel inside?
Maybe foam fill the tube?
There will still be some thermal bridging, but would have to been tested to see if there’s a difference.
So what the right way to frame the windows?
Use these frames containermodificationworld.com/
They were young 🌱❤
I've watched a bunch of your videos, and have come to the conclusion that shipping can guest quartes won't be cost effective for us after all. The more you know 🌈⭐️
Thanks for watching! Hope it was entertaining at least.
I really dont think spraying foam inside is a good idea. You have isocyanate's gassing off for a few years and you will be breathing them. After Katrina the US house thousands of people in trailers and they got sick after a few months from the chemical's inside. I you are planning to live in a container you have to understand that is a watertight structure, so any chemicals in construction materials WILL impact your heath. You can spray Hemp for start on the inside, (expensive but the best) and foam on the outside. that will give you the ideal R insulation rating. If they would have insulated from the outside, the window framing would not be an issue. The frame s would be buried in the foam. That guy is obviously not qualified to discuss this topic.
This is a commercial unit. Not for occupation. Computer and mechanical gear.
@@chucknorris277 is ALWAYS right. The health of the breaker panels and exhaust fans will not be adversely affected in this structure.
If I was to build a container home, I would encapsulate the container in spray foam from the outside then finish the exterior to blend in with surrounding infrastructure.
I am the guy in the video and I am qualified to provide the public my opinion, experience, and wisdom. There are few people on the planet with more practical experience than myself.
@@TheContainerGuyTV what would the advantage of having a container house with such quantity of steel in your walls and then encapsulate it with spray foam in the exterior which you will need to frame to cover it?. It sounds like repetitive and duplicate work and materials, a lot of money, a lot of labor hours.
Why not use fibre glass, earthwool specifically?
Fibreglass and Earthwool (Rockwool) are two very different things. We have videos using Rockwool in certain scenarios.
Do not use fibreglass. Period.
@TheContainerGuyTV okay so earthwool is a better fit? I'll have a look at you videos
@TheContainerGuyTV I was an insulation fitter by trade so just want to know what the best option is
@@bigtonsilhuman7017 th-cam.com/video/UXwkQ6jLqTk/w-d-xo.html
@@bigtonsilhuman7017 th-cam.com/video/nq1Lqs23v3Q/w-d-xo.html
Interesting
Easy way to avoid the rust is use galvanised box section and paint over the welds / burns with cold gal or PA10 no brainer really
The prob with galvanized and using cold galvanizing is paint adhesion. Considering the excuse thrown out for not removing mill scale I have to imagine it's a money issue.
The comment about being unable to remove mill scale realllllyyyyy irked me. Why can't it be removed.... like before welding it into the container wall or even before welding up the frame. I don't modify containers but I do a fair bit of work on steel truck frames. I cannot imagine making up some excuse to not remove rust or scale before painting.
More explanation about the correct way would have been helpful thanks
Why not use flat bar instead of tubing ?
Why not just buy a press brake and form 10 foot lengths of your frames yourself. Notch them out to the specific sizes required when a custom opening job comes along. Maybe its time for a custom notching and cutting station that allows quick setup to cut bars to any opening size. Perhaps leave the actual forming operation of stock long bars to your sheet metal contractor so you always have enough bars available.
Would have been cool to show the proper way of doing it.
Moral of the story is don't spend money on a container home. They weren't never designed to me lived inside of in the first place.
Make a bunch of 1/4 holes and spay foam the inside of the tubes...
If you're going to drill a bunch of holes, why not use them to structurally rivet or bolt a laser cut/folded frame to the container and eliminate the welding process and painting process entirely?
@@TheContainerGuyTV
If it's a 3' pc drill a hole every 6" on one side of the tube. (Inside the structure so you can from fill it . That way it is installed. ( I did this on a counter we made in to an office /1bd rm)
What the right than?
Hello, Looking architects to made the design to present to city, the same that electricity, septic tank, etc. Can you share contacts?
Why can't you drill a hole in the tube frame and fill it with foam
Couldnt you just drill a hole on the inside corners of that window frame and foam fill it?
The insulation value is not the issue, the cold transfer through the conductive steel (thermal bridge) is the problem.
You would still have all that steel thermal bridging. Less, I'm sure, but the condensation problem is not solved.
@@robertroberts5218 there are methods to thermally break an exterior frame from an interior frame if it was warranted. A Container Modification World 14 Ga frame is a similar concept to any NAAMM door frame and given it's installed before spray foam, it's superior to most installations. www.naamm.org/store/product/13/guide-specifications-for-commercial-hollow-metal-doors-frames
Why not use channel iron for the frame then spray foam over the whole thing inside.
@@andrewdarbyshire9108 that is essentially what our frame is but laser cut and folded. Not run-of-the-mill channel iron. See here: th-cam.com/video/mtaDf8Hxgvk/w-d-xo.html
How tall is this guy?
5'9"
@@TheContainerGuyTV Ok cool, its must be the camera angle that makes you look tiny inside the container.
@@frankyakro246 it's a high cube. If you have a standard and are used to that, I'll appear a foot shorter haha
Suggest turning down the music a bit. Here to listen to you not tunes on repeat. Thanks!
Would not recommend spray foam, it catches fire easily. Using bat insulation is the way to go, but you can't lay it against the container walls, first put a vapor protection over the steel way then lay the bat insulation over it
Here is a video for you to watch: th-cam.com/video/i8eMoXMf530/w-d-xo.html
Vapour barriers must be on the inside of the wall system. Poly vapour barriers and batt insulation needs a wall cavity that breathes. The steel container does not breathe. I would NEVER use anything other than spray foam.
A wall system as you suggest will create condensation between the container and vapour barrier and the batt insulation will act as a filter, not insulation.
Did I miss something? What's the right way?
I'd hate it too if I couldn't sell you something that you dont really need for a problem you never knew you had. Nothing wrong with welding in door and window frames. It's a conex box not the Thaj Mahal for F-sake.
You hate it, not it's wrong
It says a lot that the money was more important than your reputation.
Everyone's happy. Except for you I guess.
The background music is distracting.
Appreciate the insight. We'll turn it down on the next one.
I get it your a sales man , but damn man I'd rather get a window off fb market and slap some angle iron on that opening than pay for your frame. Bashing a lot of people doesn't get you far in sales
He's married ❤
✌🏾
Hey, if you’re going to Show how not to do it then how about turning around and showing us how to do it
th-cam.com/users/shortsI8ZC3FHux2Q?si=qpaQUXW7ZiCfDZfR
Door and gates
Indiana doesn't allow you too use them for homes anymore.
Then please show me the correct way to do it.
Use these frames containermodificationworld.com/
If you did proper paint and prep nothing would be a problem with rust any steel you prep and paint as you would a automobile!
He's the shipping container Elon Musk