Another way to check axle alignment is to use the cross member pocket(s) and put a connecting tube through each pocket and shim tight and chalk/draw a center line from coupler through to last cross member for a longitudinal base line and then square off that to the temporary axle tube member. it is very important when installing tandem units to align one to the other and to the opposite side units in relation to the trailer center line. Once fixed, adjust Toe & camber. Any misalignment can affect tire wear, bearings, axle loading stress, Wheel studs, and MPG.
I have this exact setup and it great for my off road camper. The problem is my tires are getting chewed up on the inside as the weight of the trailer has gotten heavier. Camber needs to become more positive to neutral. Can you point me in the right direction for setting Camber and Toe? I have read anywhere from neutral to 2 degrees, and if you were me, how you you proceed to do this in a garage?
Yes! What suspension model do you have? Shims should normally help correct this issue. Best to give us a shout with the issue 1800 263 3113 and our Customer Service team can assist you with what you need.
At 5:01, I see one nut is being torqued to 50-55 lbs. I don't see you how you can torque the bottom two nuts. They are between the hub face and metal plate of the spindle arm. The gap is less than one inch, no torque wrench can fit in there. Any suggestions?
I'm rebuilding my tandem 2,000 lb axles off my pontoon boat trailer with new bearings, chases. In your video, you explain what zero caster and zero tow are. Do I need to set some tow in and camber?
What is the typical size frame rail needed for these axles. Getting ready to design a square drop off road trailer. Most people using 2x3 or 2x4 rectangle tubing?
Hi Good video, although you've done like all the other videos and skipped over setting the camber and Toe. Not how to adjust it, but how to set it right. The problem is that Timbren dont actually say what the pre set camber is and why they've done it. What I've found is that the Toe changes when the suspension compresses. I believe this is because of the effect of the camber effecting the Toe as the angle on the arm compresses, the angles affecting each other etc. I cant see any way to correctly set the Tow without lowering the trailer onto wooden blocks sat under the hubs. Doing this would account for any torsional twist in the arm and the change of angle in the spindle. Am I right? Why doesn't anyone cover this subject? Why does Timbren build in Camber? Sorry for the long message. Thanks for any advice.
Thank you Marshall for your comments! You are correct in saying that the toe and camber are interrelated; that is due to the nature of the design and the trailing arm style/geometry of the suspension; however, if both camber and toe angles are adjusted properly then the toe (angle) should stay relatively unchanged (theoretically within less than one tenth of a degree for a typical axle-less with straight outboard arms). The factory preset toe is neutral (or at zero deg); as mentioned at 3:22. the factory preset camber angles are not mentioned in this video, you need to be aware they are different from one suspension model/capacity to another; (for that particular model suspension, described in the video, however it is at 1.5 deg positive). The final camber should be measured and inspected when the trailer is finished, but evidently we can not expect that the empty camber angle to be the same for everyone; trailer manufacturers use their own practices to set the final camber. Not only the empty weights of trailers are different, the size and width of trailers are different as well. the materials they use to make the frames are also different (different frames flex differently); even the size and width of the tire, length of the spindle and the amount of offset of the rims (if there is any) could be factors to consider; as a general guideline, however, the objective in setting the final camber should be to minimize the tire wear! Considering that the camber angle changes with load and the majority of tire wear (due to excessive camber) happens when the trailer is loaded, it stands to reason why the camber of wheels of an empty trailer should still be set at a slight positive angle!
Hi. I have the axel less with 2" lift and long spindle (part number is ASR35HDS06) My toe is neutral but i have a little positive camber. Since in the video you said... The axel have a factory built-in camber... Do my axel should have a positive or neutral camber? Thanks!!
Thanks for reaching out! Camber should be slightly positive but as the load increases the camber decreases and approaches zero. Positive camber is to be expected with the trailer unloaded and then deflect to a neutral camber once loaded, this will help to keep the tire wear minimal.
Thanks for the video! Much better than reading the install manual for figuring out how everything fits together. I'm planning a build with this suspension myself. What size tubing are you using? Looks like 2" x 3" x 1/4"?
When measuring where to put these axels on the frame do we use the spindle? So if I was to put my axle 60% back from the front of the trailer which part of the Timbren is placed at that mark?
Thanks for reaching out! Yes the basis to calculate the load ratio on the tongue using an axle-less suspension should be the center of the spindle, not the hanger or any other parts of the suspension.
Looks so good i want one. I copied the sticker number from the axle in the video. No match aval. Can you post this particular stock number here for ordering? Thanks for the help
The suspension the guys used in the video is our 1 Tonne HD with long spindle arms - timbren.com/i-30497992-1-tonne-hd-axle-less-trailer-suspension-w-long-spindles.html
Hi Philip, Sorry that was an oversight in the video and should not have read use 3/4" drill. We do not recommend oversized holes. The socket used for a 1/2" bolt is 3/4". The drill to be used is 33/64", 0.015" larger than bolt size. This will give proper clearance for the bolt but still maintain a good location.
Thank you for detailed video! I am imagine its a lot of work to well detailed like you did. I am looking for someone who can help design Axel Less trailer structure. Do you happens to know anyone who can provide this service? Thanks again, Cheers!
Hello! We appreciate your comment! Reaching out to trailer manufactures is what is needed here. Timbren Industries currently manufacture just the suspension. A google search of trailer manufactures in your area may be the best approach here for you.
Hey Terry, we don't have a video like that right now but if you need some guidance on how to do that our customer service team can definitely talk you through it.
Our Axle-Less suspensions go up to 7,000 lbs and yes, we have hubs and brakes for the Ford 8 lug. You can check out all the options here 👉🏼 timbren.com/c-1389196-products-axle-less-trailer-suspension.html
1:59 Wow, looks like the bolts these guys had on hand were a fair bit too short for the job. Any time you're tightening up a bolt and nut, you need to at least have enough length to go through the entire nut. Here you're using Nylock nuts to reduce the chance of the bolts backing out, but the bolts aren't even reaching the nylon ring on the Nylock, so not only are you not getting proper thread engagement but you're also missing the entire point of the Nylock. I'm assuming this is probably also why there aren't any washers being used either, they likely noticed how short they were and ditched any washers to get a little extra length. Pretty unsafe, seeing as this is what's holding their suspension and tires on. Hopefully they at least used some loctite on them since the Nylock isn't doing anything as installed here.
I just watched the rest of the video and if what I'm seeing is correct this is a legitimately dangerous situation. 4:06 at the top of the screen you can see that clearly there is barely any thread engagement on these bolts, looking inside the Nylock nut it's very clear that the bolt isn't even halfway through the nut. I really hope that they just needed to film this video, didn't have the right size bolt on hand and replaced it after, because handing this over to a customer is negligent and dangerous. To be clear, I am a Red Seal Industrial Mechanic, this is my day job and my area of expertise. This is dangerous and Timbren should not be promoting installations done like this.
Thanks for the comment. You are correct, the bolts used appear to be too short (for the size of the Trailer frame used), washers were not used (where they should have), the locknuts would therefore not get engaged, etc. After looking into this it seems the fasteners used in the video are not the same that are supplied by Timbren when customers purchase these suspension units and looks to be just used as a visual in this installation. Because of these being installed on different sized and specs trailers we recommend that the manufacturer/installer pick the proper size fasteners that will work with the trailer frame specs. Using high strength hex cap screws (bolts) with proper length and F436 high strength washers are always recommended.
The threaded extension of the bolt through the torqued nut should be a minimum of half the width/diameter of the bolt and more extended length doesn't hurt as long as it doesn't interfere
I have a square tubed 3” custom off road trailer as well. I dont have that platform to bolt from underneath. Is that necessary? Plan on adding the cross tube as well.
Great question! On a retro fit install we typically recommend that inboard reinforcement plate because it stiffens everything up and removes any flex from the hanger to the frame. However, it's not necessary if you use a cross member. This video shows the install on a new trailer designed specifically for the Axle-Less suspension which is why we only included a cross member in the frame at the suspension point. Let us know if you have anymore questions.
Installed today. Took about a good day to install. Overall pretty easy, removing and cutting the old suspension took the longest. Super happy! Thanks Timbren!!
The weak point on your installation is the frame you drilled should be drilled larger and have sleeves /or tubes welded to take the torque of the fixing bolts... Otherwise a great product....😀😀
Hey Anthony, Definitely something to consider on higher capacity systems. It may be necessary to reinforce the frame locally, especially on hollow frames, aluminum or softer metal frames and thinner wall thickness frames.
Hi Vincent, the best thing to do with a technical questions of this nature is to reach out to our Customer Service Team directly. They'd love to help you solve this issue - sales@timbren.com or 1-800-263-3113
Hey Casey. For the lug nuts we recommend: Torque nut to 200 Ft.-lbs. (271 N-m) while rotating the hub. Back off one full turn. Rotate hub at least one full turn. Retorque nut to 50 Ft.-lbs. (68 N-m) while rotating the hub. Back off 1/4 turn. Thanks!
1:59 recommends UNC shows UNF bolts that are too short and do not engage the nylon (with no washers). I know you guys are supposed to the big name in this, but seriously...
What would people want, easy question for me sometimes. I can tell you what they don't want, hazardous materials in their products. Hint: magnetic brakes. Get rid of those brake pads and engineer a model with magnetic brakes. It is pretty much just an electric generator in each wheel engineered just big enough to stop the trailer and its payload. Then you can engineer up the electronic hardware it will require. And now people will never have to change brake pads or have that brake dust everywhere, at the same time getting more charge in their batteries. Could help work good for camping off grid, like the off road camper you are working on. lol
Not where the suspension actually mounts up. We need it to be reinforced. Box frame is best. Or build some brackets/gussets to support the suspension to the frame.
Another way to check axle alignment is to use the cross member pocket(s) and put a connecting tube through each pocket and shim tight and chalk/draw a center line from coupler through to last cross member for a longitudinal base line and then square off that to the temporary axle tube member.
it is very important when installing tandem units to align one to the other and to the opposite side units in relation to the trailer center line. Once fixed, adjust Toe & camber. Any misalignment can affect tire wear, bearings, axle loading stress, Wheel studs, and MPG.
You miss a major step. How do you calculate the location of the half-axle for single and double half-axles along the base frame?
Instructions sheet comes with provided dimensions and spec sheet to calculate distance between half axles based off of wheel size.
Round stock spacers should be welded into the metal tube frame to keep axle assembly tight to the frame without collapsing the frame tube .
Great tip!
I have this exact setup and it great for my off road camper. The problem is my tires are getting chewed up on the inside as the weight of the trailer has gotten heavier. Camber needs to become more positive to neutral. Can you point me in the right direction for setting Camber and Toe? I have read anywhere from neutral to 2 degrees, and if you were me, how you you proceed to do this in a garage?
Yes! What suspension model do you have? Shims should normally help correct this issue. Best to give us a shout with the issue 1800 263 3113 and our Customer Service team can assist you with what you need.
At 5:01, I see one nut is being torqued to 50-55 lbs. I don't see you how you can torque the bottom two nuts. They are between the hub face and metal plate of the spindle arm. The gap is less than one inch, no torque wrench can fit in there. Any suggestions?
Good eye, we will get with our engineers and hear what that have to say!
A crows foot wrench on a torque wrench may be the solution you need.
I'm rebuilding my tandem 2,000 lb axles off my pontoon boat trailer with new bearings, chases. In your video, you explain what zero caster and zero tow are. Do I need to set some tow in and camber?
That all comes down to alignment on your trailer
What is the typical size frame rail needed for these axles. Getting ready to design a square drop off road trailer. Most people using 2x3 or 2x4 rectangle tubing?
Hey! 2x3 works well here!
Great video! I am literally right at this step with my custom off road utility trailer build!
Awesome! We'd love to see some shots when you're done the build.
Julio, where do you get structure design from? I am looking for custom structure design service, if you know anyone!?
Hi
Good video, although you've done like all the other videos and skipped over setting the camber and Toe. Not how to adjust it, but how to set it right.
The problem is that Timbren dont actually say what the pre set camber is and why they've done it.
What I've found is that the Toe changes when the suspension compresses.
I believe this is because of the effect of the camber effecting the Toe as the angle on the arm compresses, the angles affecting each other etc.
I cant see any way to correctly set the Tow without lowering the trailer onto wooden blocks sat under the hubs.
Doing this would account for any torsional twist in the arm and the change of angle in the spindle.
Am I right? Why doesn't anyone cover this subject?
Why does Timbren build in Camber?
Sorry for the long message. Thanks for any advice.
Thank you Marshall for your comments! You are correct in saying that the toe and camber are interrelated; that is due to the nature of the design and the trailing arm style/geometry of the suspension; however, if both camber and toe angles are adjusted properly then the toe (angle) should stay relatively unchanged (theoretically within less than one tenth of a degree for a typical axle-less with straight outboard arms).
The factory preset toe is neutral (or at zero deg); as mentioned at 3:22.
the factory preset camber angles are not mentioned in this video, you need to be aware they are different from one suspension model/capacity to another; (for that particular model suspension, described in the video, however it is at 1.5 deg positive).
The final camber should be measured and inspected when the trailer is finished, but evidently we can not expect that the empty camber angle to be the same for everyone; trailer manufacturers use their own practices to set the final camber. Not only the empty weights of trailers are different, the size and width of trailers are different as well. the materials they use to make the frames are also different (different frames flex differently); even the size and width of the tire, length of the spindle and the amount of offset of the rims (if there is any) could be factors to consider; as a general guideline, however, the objective in setting the final camber should be to minimize the tire wear! Considering that the camber angle changes with load and the majority of tire wear (due to excessive camber) happens when the trailer is loaded, it stands to reason why the camber of wheels of an empty trailer should still be set at a slight positive angle!
@@TimbrenIndustries Thank you for such a considerable response.
@@MarshallRoad Happy to help 👊
Hi. I have the axel less with 2" lift and long spindle (part number is ASR35HDS06)
My toe is neutral but i have a little positive camber. Since in the video you said... The axel have a factory built-in camber... Do my axel should have a positive or neutral camber? Thanks!!
Thanks for reaching out! Camber should be slightly positive but as the load increases the camber decreases and approaches zero. Positive camber is to be expected with the trailer unloaded and then deflect to a neutral camber once loaded, this will help to keep the tire wear minimal.
@@TimbrenIndustries thanks!!!!
As always, good info and said plainly.
Much appreciated
So these axle-less suspension can be installed in tandem like one right behind the other but all 4 (left sides and right sides) working independently?
That is correct! They can be used in a tandem application.
Thanks for the video! Much better than reading the install manual for figuring out how everything fits together. I'm planning a build with this suspension myself. What size tubing are you using? Looks like 2" x 3" x 1/4"?
That it is @McYukon. Pumped you're going to be running an Axle-Less suspension. Welcome to the Timbren family 👊🏼
@@TimbrenIndustries😊
When measuring where to put these axels on the frame do we use the spindle? So if I was to put my axle 60% back from the front of the trailer which part of the Timbren is placed at that mark?
Thanks for reaching out! Yes the basis to calculate the load ratio on the tongue using an axle-less suspension should be the center of the spindle, not the hanger or any other parts of the suspension.
@@TimbrenIndustries excellent, thank you.
@@Jasper118 Happy to help!
Would there be anything i need to be aware of if i were to install this system on a tandem axle travel trailer?
Nope! They can be ran in tandem!
@@TimbrenIndustries awesome, thank you.
Do you ever add shocks with your axle-less trailer suspension?
No! Nothing like that added. Just the main jounce spring.
Looks so good i want one. I copied the sticker number from the axle in the video. No match aval. Can you post this particular stock number here for ordering? Thanks for the help
The suspension the guys used in the video is our 1 Tonne HD with long spindle arms - timbren.com/i-30497992-1-tonne-hd-axle-less-trailer-suspension-w-long-spindles.html
Your video said to use a 3/4" drill bit then right after that it says to use 1/2" hardware.. so are you recommending oversized holes?
Hi Philip,
Sorry that was an oversight in the video and should not have read use 3/4" drill. We do not recommend oversized holes. The socket used for a 1/2" bolt is 3/4". The drill to be used is 33/64", 0.015" larger than bolt size. This will give proper clearance for the bolt but still maintain a good location.
Nice work!
Thanks Corey
Thank you for detailed video! I am imagine its a lot of work to well detailed like you did.
I am looking for someone who can help design Axel Less trailer structure. Do you happens to know anyone who can provide this service? Thanks again, Cheers!
Hello! We appreciate your comment! Reaching out to trailer manufactures is what is needed here. Timbren Industries currently manufacture just the suspension. A google search of trailer manufactures in your area may be the best approach here for you.
If I want to do a custom build like this butt with tandem axle less do you have video and spec to help me .
Hey Terry, we don't have a video like that right now but if you need some guidance on how to do that our customer service team can definitely talk you through it.
Can you get hubs in Ford 8 lug and are these 3,500 lbs axles or can I get bigger?
Our Axle-Less suspensions go up to 7,000 lbs and yes, we have hubs and brakes for the Ford 8 lug. You can check out all the options here 👉🏼 timbren.com/c-1389196-products-axle-less-trailer-suspension.html
1:59 Wow, looks like the bolts these guys had on hand were a fair bit too short for the job. Any time you're tightening up a bolt and nut, you need to at least have enough length to go through the entire nut. Here you're using Nylock nuts to reduce the chance of the bolts backing out, but the bolts aren't even reaching the nylon ring on the Nylock, so not only are you not getting proper thread engagement but you're also missing the entire point of the Nylock. I'm assuming this is probably also why there aren't any washers being used either, they likely noticed how short they were and ditched any washers to get a little extra length. Pretty unsafe, seeing as this is what's holding their suspension and tires on. Hopefully they at least used some loctite on them since the Nylock isn't doing anything as installed here.
I just watched the rest of the video and if what I'm seeing is correct this is a legitimately dangerous situation. 4:06 at the top of the screen you can see that clearly there is barely any thread engagement on these bolts, looking inside the Nylock nut it's very clear that the bolt isn't even halfway through the nut. I really hope that they just needed to film this video, didn't have the right size bolt on hand and replaced it after, because handing this over to a customer is negligent and dangerous. To be clear, I am a Red Seal Industrial Mechanic, this is my day job and my area of expertise. This is dangerous and Timbren should not be promoting installations done like this.
Thanks for the comment. You are correct, the bolts used appear to be too short (for the size of the Trailer frame used), washers were not used (where they should have), the locknuts would therefore not get engaged, etc.
After looking into this it seems the fasteners used in the video are not the same that are supplied by Timbren when customers purchase these suspension units and looks to be just used as a visual in this installation.
Because of these being installed on different sized and specs trailers we recommend that the manufacturer/installer pick the proper size fasteners that will work with the trailer frame specs. Using high strength hex cap screws (bolts) with proper length and F436 high strength washers are always recommended.
The threaded extension of the bolt through the torqued nut should be a minimum of half the width/diameter of the bolt and more extended length doesn't hurt as long as it doesn't interfere
And they used UNF which means they are probably over-torqued and have no sleeves to prevent tube collapse.
I have a square tubed 3” custom off road trailer as well. I dont have that platform to bolt from underneath. Is that necessary? Plan on adding the cross tube as well.
Great question! On a retro fit install we typically recommend that inboard reinforcement plate because it stiffens everything up and removes any flex from the hanger to the frame. However, it's not necessary if you use a cross member. This video shows the install on a new trailer designed specifically for the Axle-Less suspension which is why we only included a cross member in the frame at the suspension point.
Let us know if you have anymore questions.
2000hd 4” will be here today or the next. Thank you!
@@betweenthepines4000 Welcome to the Timbren family 🥳
Installed today. Took about a good day to install. Overall pretty easy, removing and cutting the old suspension took the longest. Super happy! Thanks Timbren!!
@@betweenthepines4000 Awesome 🤟🏽
The weak point on your installation is the frame you drilled should be drilled larger and have sleeves /or tubes welded to take the torque of the fixing bolts... Otherwise a great product....😀😀
Hey Anthony, Definitely something to consider on higher capacity systems. It may be necessary to reinforce the frame locally, especially on hollow frames, aluminum or softer metal frames and thinner wall thickness frames.
It’s a grade 8 bolt which has a tensile rating of 150,000 psi. I’m pretty sure it’ll be fine.
@@ottocornett1151 the bolt isnot the issue. The tubular frame can collapse in if sleeves are not welded in
Is that a 2x4 tubular frame?
Yep!
@@TimbrenIndustries it looks like a pretty strong base and would make a great trailer.
I’m struggling with a tire wear issue on a turtle trailer. Do you have any suggested resources?
Hi Vincent, the best thing to do with a technical questions of this nature is to reach out to our Customer Service Team directly. They'd love to help you solve this issue - sales@timbren.com or 1-800-263-3113
Do you have the contact info for Arcworks? I would like to have the company build the exact same thing.
Hi Michael, checkout their website 👉 www.arcworxs.com/
What is the recommended torque for the lug nuts?
Hey Casey.
For the lug nuts we recommend: Torque nut to 200 Ft.-lbs. (271 N-m) while rotating the hub. Back off
one full turn. Rotate hub at least one full turn. Retorque nut to 50 Ft.-lbs. (68 N-m) while rotating the hub. Back off 1/4
turn.
Thanks!
@@TimbrenIndustries I believe your answer is for the spindle nut, she was asking about the lug nuts (rim to brake hub)...
1:59 recommends UNC shows UNF bolts that are too short and do not engage the nylon (with no washers).
I know you guys are supposed to the big name in this, but seriously...
Do you sell to Australia?
We sure do. Check out - www.timbren.com.au/
Threads on that bolt didn’t even engage the nylock part of the nut.
Yes, this is just a tutorial. Next time we will be more realistic during that part - thanks
What would people want, easy question for me sometimes. I can tell you what they don't want, hazardous materials in their products. Hint: magnetic brakes. Get rid of those brake pads and engineer a model with magnetic brakes. It is pretty much just an electric generator in each wheel engineered just big enough to stop the trailer and its payload. Then you can engineer up the electronic hardware it will require. And now people will never have to change brake pads or have that brake dust everywhere, at the same time getting more charge in their batteries. Could help work good for camping off grid, like the off road camper you are working on. lol
Very neat idea! Will definitely pass it along to the engineer team.
@@TimbrenIndustriesI think Prius brakes are like that to an extent it's regenerative breaking
Hey pal question, can I install 4 of these on a 17 ft concession trailer?
Good question, do you mean 2 suspensions per side for a tandem setup or do you mean a quad axle setup?
@@TimbrenIndustries yes exactly. One on each tire.
@@Bennyblass79 great, you can absolutely run a tandem configuration setup with the Axle-Less system.
@@TimbrenIndustries awesome 😎 I’m definitely on it. Wish me luck 🍀
@@Bennyblass79 you got this 👊🏼
So if I'm using an old truck bed trailer, will this attach to the leaf springs?
This will mount to the trailer frame itself. This suspension replaces the those leaf springs. 1200lbs to 7000lbs per pair is the capacity range.
Can you mount these with an angle or channel frame?
Not where the suspension actually mounts up. We need it to be reinforced. Box frame is best. Or build some brackets/gussets to support the suspension to the frame.