OK, so I accidentally saw your video on the way to ordering $95 worth of parts from Amazon to repair a new tranny I installed in 2016. Before seeing your video I noticed the gears were really not very worn or stripped. To boot, the tranny always made noise from the day I installed it (always wondered why). After seeing your video, I looked at the tranny again, guess what, there already was a hardened washer in there....on the wrong side! It was a simple fix from there, as your video shows. I found another thin spring washer in my parts cabinet that fit, put that one in to boot (no it did not bind), it now is whisper-quiet and drives better than new! My first take on your video was "you've got to be kidding"....but you werent, and thanks a bunch for your clever troubleshooting.
I was having a problem with pulling the mower backwards. Went thru your video, but no luck. My grease in the unit was super dry and stiff. What I found was the gear on the pully shaft was so gummed up it would bearly turn. I put some light oil on shaft and spun the pully with my drill and a 7/16 socket. That loosened it up. Dug out most of the old grease and put fresh in. Mower now is back to its happy mowing state😂
I’ve found several failure modes with this transmission. The bronze axle bearings wearing out and becoming oblong is the most common (they are cheap and easy to replace). The pinion bearing is the second most common (also very cheap, it’s the same part as the spindle bearings on TimeCutter mowers so cheap and plentiful). End play is the third one I see, in fact just had a 20070 in here with it last week. This is a great solution and a simple fix, I think the end play was caused by lousy QC at the factory. Great job!
I know this comment is a year old. Are you talking about the axle bearings in the transmission or the ones out at the wheels? If it's the ones in the trans do you have a source for them? Thanks.
THERE IS AN EASIER WAY! Just insert a 1/2 inch e clip around the axle just below the "upper" transmission case axle holder (as seen from below when mower is tipped on its side, muffler side up). The e clip works as a spacer. This is essentially Jakester's "fix" WITHOUT having to remove the axle, and it works -- but I couldn''t have done it without the Jakester's inspiration. Jakester, feel free to try this and update your DIY video, since you are the "originator" of the simple Toro tranny fix.
Vic, could you elaborate a bit more on why the e clip would stay fixed in place vs vibrating off. I don't think there is a groove on the axle where you described.Thanks.
I dunno. It just works. The 1/2" e-clip hugs the axle acting like a spacer. It seems to fill the gap that opens up as gears loosen up. All I know is that the wheels are turning and they had stopped turning before I did this fix. This fix does not require taking the wheels or gearbox off the axle.
Working on one now same issue. I have leftover bushings and new bearing. I also drill hole in cover and add grease fitting. Also save clips and washers from junkers.
This was a great vid. I can't wait to dismantle my toro to see what the hell is going on . Other vids were just replace . What im understanding is : factory gives us some sloppy piece of shit that is designed to go bad after couple years.
I have a 28 year old Lawnboy Gold series made by Toro where the entire belt is on the top of the deck . The belt and the 3 speed transmission have never failed in all that time and I cut a 1/4 acre once a week. Why can't they make them like that anymore? Planed obsolescence ? Except for cleaning and greasing the small drive gears so they will slip when going backwards and replacing the wheels when they wore out and split the drive train has been trouble free. What recently failed the blower housing from metal fatigue where it bolted to the engine from so many pull starts and I replaced the pull cord itself once.
Wow I saw you getting ready to use the drill to clean the shaft and though.. 'now here is a guy who understands how to improvise!' Of course... that was before I realized that wasn't the drive shaft in the drill. I though you where going to use the drill like a lathe turning the shaft with a strip of emery cloth looped around it.
Thank you very much for this video. I just did this fix. My large gear had a few worn teeth but I thought I'd give it a try. I used a 3/8" washer with the same OD as the shim that was in there. I drilled the ID to 1/2" using a step bit. I used it instead of the shim and it took all of the play out of it. I packed it with grease and it works great! The two axle bearings in the trans are worn. Someone mentioned replacing them. Does anyone know where to get them?
I'm happily surprised that people find this video useful. The transmission ($80), the large gear ($34), the small gear ($12) and the bearing ($14) are available on ereplacementparts.com. Just have to determine if it's worth it. I'll try and paste the link for a front drive, I'm pretty sure the rear drive has a different transmission: www.ereplacementparts.com/toro-20071-2700000012709999992007-lawn-mower-parts-c-121776_127291_127758.html
Sorry for slacking on the reply, I actually don't think I ever removed the gear from the main driveshaft. It's just a pin that gets driven out. Hope you fixed it.
The washer was on there, it was just on the other side of the transmission case. I shifted the gears inward by moving the washer. This was my friend's mower, it worked for a year after this fix before it got stolen. I'm pretty sure the hardened washers are still available at ereplacementparts.com.
That looks likes the first one e I bought back in 06. My newer recycler has a newer designed transmission with a wormscrew gear in it. The redesign didn't help because it's slipping just like the pinion gear design. The difference is I can't get a rebuild kit for 15 dollars. Gotta buy the whole gearbox for 65 dollars. The simple design was better. Also, when I opened it up it has a liquid fluid in it instead of gear grease and it had a sealant instead of a gasket. All around crappie new design.
My rear wheel driving not working. Belt looks good. When i move the belt with my hands the wheels move. When turned on nothing happens. Belt isn’t moving so assume I need a new tranny????
Mine eats that pinion bearing every year or two. Fortunately I catch it before it strips the gears out. Belts, wheels, drive gear and clutch, don’t last long. The gears and ball bearing on the drive axles fail all the time. The wheels are outrageously expensive and they are so badly made they don’t even have bearings in them so you have to replace the whole wheel when the plastic hub wears out. This is the worst designed lawnmower I’ve ever owned. Parts are outrageous expensive for it it probably costs me half the cost of the mower in parts every couple years to fix it. Honestly the only good thing on mine is the engine and that’s a flathead Briggs. I’ve had good luck with Toro snowblowers but their mowers are horrible!
OK, so I accidentally saw your video on the way to ordering $95 worth of parts from Amazon to repair a new tranny I installed in 2016. Before seeing your video I noticed the gears were really not very worn or stripped. To boot, the tranny always made noise from the day I installed it (always wondered why). After seeing your video, I looked at the tranny again, guess what, there already was a hardened washer in there....on the wrong side! It was a simple fix from there, as your video shows. I found another thin spring washer in my parts cabinet that fit, put that one in to boot (no it did not bind), it now is whisper-quiet and drives better than new! My first take on your video was "you've got to be kidding"....but you werent, and thanks a bunch for your clever troubleshooting.
I know I took forever to respond to your comment but, cool! I was hoping I could help at least one person. LOL
That repair saved me about $100. Thank you!
I was having a problem with pulling the mower backwards. Went thru your video, but no luck. My grease in the unit was super dry and stiff. What I found was the gear on the pully shaft was so gummed up it would bearly turn. I put some light oil on shaft and spun the pully with my drill and a 7/16 socket. That loosened it up. Dug out most of the old grease and put fresh in. Mower now is back to its happy mowing state😂
One thing's for sure - that thing is never going to fail due to a lack of grease!
That's my over-attention to detail kicking in. It was packed to the gills with grease when I opened it up so I did the same. LOL
AFC v÷e rd
I'm not sure if grease is what's supposed to be inside I thought it was like a gear oil so the movement would lube, grease is to thick and won't move.
Fyi,
Toro service manual says to fill transmission 2/3 full with lithium base grease.
u have a link or downloadable pdf on this ????@@leonardbriones-gg7hk
thanks been looking for a video of their for a while. unfortunately mine had stripped gears. nice job.
Well done video. Just a thought , could the wear and tear of ball bearing be responsible for the lateral movement?
Thanks for the video
Just helped me fix my problem
I’ve found several failure modes with this transmission. The bronze axle bearings wearing out and becoming oblong is the most common (they are cheap and easy to replace). The pinion bearing is the second most common (also very cheap, it’s the same part as the spindle bearings on TimeCutter mowers so cheap and plentiful). End play is the third one I see, in fact just had a 20070 in here with it last week. This is a great solution and a simple fix, I think the end play was caused by lousy QC at the factory. Great job!
I know this comment is a year old. Are you talking about the axle bearings in the transmission or the ones out at the wheels?
If it's the ones in the trans do you have a source for them?
Thanks.
I bought a pair of them at toro dealer. Not in stock ordered them
good information. thanks for this !
THERE IS AN EASIER WAY! Just insert a 1/2 inch e clip around the axle just below the "upper" transmission case axle holder (as seen from below when mower is tipped on its side, muffler side up). The e clip works as a spacer. This is essentially Jakester's "fix" WITHOUT having to remove the axle, and it works -- but I couldn''t have done it without the Jakester's inspiration. Jakester, feel free to try this and update your DIY video, since you are the "originator" of the simple Toro tranny fix.
Vic, could you elaborate a bit more on why the e clip would stay fixed in place vs vibrating off. I don't think there is a groove on the axle where you described.Thanks.
I dunno. It just works. The 1/2" e-clip hugs the axle acting like a spacer. It seems to fill the gap that opens up as gears loosen up. All I know is that the wheels are turning and they had stopped turning before I did this fix. This fix does not require taking the wheels or gearbox off the axle.
I tried the eclip just moved after i started it
I love your wire brush wheel.
I like you're style thanks for sharing
Working on one now same issue. I have leftover bushings and new bearing. I also drill hole in cover and add grease fitting. Also save clips and washers from junkers.
WOW GOOOOD VIDEO ..
THX Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
Brilliant! Bit of investigation, effort and thought saves $$$ and wasted metal!!!
Nice job,you just showed me exactly what I needed to know,THANKS!-Ya can"t beat you tube for these kind of video"s.
This was a great vid. I can't wait to dismantle my toro to see what the hell is going on . Other vids were just replace . What im understanding is : factory gives us some sloppy piece of shit that is designed to go bad after couple years.
I have one that is still working after 23 years. Not a POS at all.
I have a 28 year old Lawnboy Gold series made by Toro where the entire belt is on the top of the deck . The belt and the 3 speed transmission have never failed in all that time and I cut a 1/4 acre once a week. Why can't they make them like that anymore? Planed obsolescence ? Except for cleaning and greasing the small drive gears so they will slip when going backwards and replacing the wheels when they wore out and split the drive train has been trouble free. What recently failed the blower housing from metal fatigue where it bolted to the engine from so many pull starts and I replaced the pull cord itself once.
Wow I saw you getting ready to use the drill to clean the shaft and though.. 'now here is a guy who understands how to improvise!' Of course... that was before I realized that wasn't the drive shaft in the drill. I though you where going to use the drill like a lathe turning the shaft with a strip of emery cloth looped around it.
Jake, it's called a bench grinder.!
Great video, what kind of transmission Grease did you use.
Thank for your response
It's been awhile so I don't remember. Any high temp/heavy duty synthetic grease will work fine.
Thank you very much for this video.
I just did this fix. My large gear had a few worn teeth but I thought I'd give it a try. I used a 3/8" washer with the same OD as the shim that was in there. I drilled the ID to 1/2" using a step bit. I used it instead of the shim and it took all of the play out of it. I packed it with grease and it works great!
The two axle bearings in the trans are worn. Someone mentioned replacing them. Does anyone know where to get them?
I'm happily surprised that people find this video useful. The transmission ($80), the large gear ($34), the small gear ($12) and the bearing ($14) are available on ereplacementparts.com. Just have to determine if it's worth it. I'll try and paste the link for a front drive, I'm pretty sure the rear drive has a different transmission: www.ereplacementparts.com/toro-20071-2700000012709999992007-lawn-mower-parts-c-121776_127291_127758.html
just quick question how did u remove the pin holding the gear to the main shaft is there a trick to it
Right!
Sorry for slacking on the reply, I actually don't think I ever removed the gear from the main driveshaft. It's just a pin that gets driven out. Hope you fixed it.
Wouldn't they run cooler, better and last longer if you filled them motor oil, half way before putting them together?
This should also work for FWD as well. The newer toro transmission are a different design box but still have problems
Is that washer you put in there a toro part or is it from the hardware store? And what’s the thickness?
The washer was on there, it was just on the other side of the transmission case. I shifted the gears inward by moving the washer. This was my friend's mower, it worked for a year after this fix before it got stolen. I'm pretty sure the hardened washers are still available at ereplacementparts.com.
Shimming the pinion forward will work as well. No need for hardened washers because bearing spins, rather than the shaft.
Explain? How would i go about that?
Did you maybe mean "Delrin". Never heard of "denril".
sweeeeeeeeet
Now time to fix your lawn , 🤣
That looks likes the first one e I bought back in 06. My newer recycler has a newer designed transmission with a wormscrew gear in it. The redesign didn't help because it's slipping just like the pinion gear design. The difference is I can't get a rebuild kit for 15 dollars. Gotta buy the whole gearbox for 65 dollars. The simple design was better. Also, when I opened it up it has a liquid fluid in it instead of gear grease and it had a sealant instead of a gasket. All around crappie new design.
Why not loosen the set screw on that gear and slid it over and retighten the set screw
It’s not a set screw, it’s a drift pin.
My rear wheel driving not working. Belt looks good. When i move the belt with my hands the wheels move. When turned on nothing happens. Belt isn’t moving so assume I need a new tranny????
Check your cable and the spring!
The grub screw that holds the pulley on the crankshaft probably loosened up and it now spins freely on the crankshaft.
I see the problem, not enough grease.
I saw that too. Needs a grease fitting so ya could fill it up 110% 😮
Mine eats that pinion bearing every year or two. Fortunately I catch it before it strips the gears out. Belts, wheels, drive gear and clutch, don’t last long. The gears and ball bearing on the drive axles fail all the time. The wheels are outrageously expensive and they are so badly made they don’t even have bearings in them so you have to replace the whole wheel when the plastic hub wears out. This is the worst designed lawnmower I’ve ever owned. Parts are outrageous expensive for it it probably costs me half the cost of the mower in parts every couple years to fix it. Honestly the only good thing on mine is the engine and that’s a flathead Briggs. I’ve had good luck with Toro snowblowers but their mowers are horrible!
Way too much grease buddy. Try half that.
Unsafe does not want wear safety glasses
OMG way too much grease in there lol.
Over packing
@@scottvan1898 That is why it weeps out. He said he started to use a gasket sealant. It needs to room for expansion as it heats up.