Jodas... great to hear. Just an FYI ... I would put sealant around the water jackets and the intake runners. In this video I did just the water jackets but later had to do the runners because I had an intake leak... my intake manifold was not perfectly flat. Good luck
Great! Something I learned was... since I was reusing a stock intake that wasn't perfectly flat... I needed to put sealant also around the intake ports. Good luck!
Wish I would've seen this video before last weekend. I changed my intake gasket for the Felpro and ditched the end rubber seal for right stuff only. The gaps are so huge and the beads are so thin, it's was a nightmare and a mess to cobble this altogether. Not even sure I did it the right way either...
Yea I've heard some stories about that stuff ending up in the oil pickup tube so I try to use as little as possible. Right now I'm chasing down a vacuum leak on this build and I think it's with the carb... otherwise it could be this pan gasket and I may end up doing this all over again and using that Right Stuff gasket maker around the intake runners. Good luck with your build. As long as you are not leaking oil then you should be fine, that seal is not under a lot of pressure anyway.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Absolutely. The weird thing is that the engine is brand new - I installed the lifter baffle metal thing to use composite intake gaskets. I used the one from TA Performance (they were red) and after one summer, they where "pushed" from above the intake and they tore apart, I've never seen that. I then went with the Felpros but it was a nightmare to put a thick coat of right stuff on the beads. For your problem, if you don't want to install that lifter valley baffle thing, you'll have to use the very same metal gaskets. You may want to put Felpros gasket over the actual metal valley gaskets, or you could indeed put right stuff around the intake/exhaust ports. Hope that helps!
If you are trying to keep it period correct I would have went with the Edelbrock and painted to match just to save my BACK lol. I have an Iron intake off of a 429 ford that I have in the garage that we literally used for a boat anchor. In all seriousness very thorough job on the install and great explanations.
I may do that in the future... i could just grind off the words...did you see the part where I had my finger pinned between it and the rear of the block? Lol
@@JackofAllTrades1 I missed that but it's easy to do for sure. What all did you end up doing to the engine? Did you have to go inside or are you just resealing everything?
@@PNW_Car_Mods there is a lot... its a 464 now... forged reverse dome pistons .050 over, block is zero decked... oversized valves.. heads ported and bowls blended. Pretty much I want it to look stock from the outside but anything out of sight is fare game. :)
@@PNW_Car_Mods yea I'm real excited and also nervous about it... I hope to have it all done before next spring. I still have several things on the car to upgrade to support the new engine.
I gotta ask where the gasket might be available for using 70 intake on a 71 engine (heads). We noticed the wide center port on each head above the small round exhaust ones (which we plugged). The issue is that the 70 intake will not cover the wide center slots which it seems to be for oil. If there is a fix to use early intake with 71 heads we haven't found it yet. Thank you for any help
Gosh... there's a whole science to which one will fit. The v8buick.com website had all the info I needed, but it takes some research. This is a 71 intake on 70 heads in the video. From my understanding, there is not a ton of difference in the heads. I believe the main difference was the piston size in the 70 and 71, and that gave the different CR's. Luckily, you have pre emission heads. I believe a 71 gasket will work for you. If you see the 70 gasket you will understand, there is not much to it. Also, there shouldn't be any oiling in this area as these heads oil through the pushrod... you may be thinking of the 69 and earlier heads that had different oiling. There are coolant passages but not oil.
Probably a 71 or earlier. Did you look for the block code? It'll be stamped right by the oil dipstick mount on the block... right by number 5 and 7 plug.
I hate those gaskets. Been building buicks my hole life. Dont ever use those end seals, even when everything is right they leak in the corners sometimes. Do the Edelbrock B4B, they were available over the counter at the deal back then. I personally think they flow a little better than the performer but if you have a GS with the hood go performer
I've been thinking about doing one of the aluminum intakes. This stock one is less than perfect on the underside, and I think I leak a little vacuum because of it. Thanks for the tip.
@@JackofAllTrades1 B4B flows a bit better but carb is moved. Performer is an exact replacement except you use a Chevy stove choke if your using original carb. It will work with the valley pan but TA and felpeo make paper gasket and you can buy a valley pan from ya to stop splash. It your going to plug the exhaust crossover then you don't need a valley pan really. If you tell me what year your heads are I can tell you the freeze plugs to block the crossover. Can be done in the car,no problem.
@kevin2960 My heads are '70 the block '75 and that intakenis from '71. At one point I was trying to look stock but anybody with a keen eye will notice that my car is a '72 and the '71 intake is vastly different from the '72.
@@JackofAllTrades1 I used 3/4 freeze plugs, some say 18mm but my heads were a little over 18mm. Get 4 of each and use what fits. Just tap them in. If you want the choke to function you could drill a small hole in one on each side but I wouldn't. Just use an electric choke or manual.
@charlessmith3758 that setup got me through cam breakin, but it was hell, I ended up having to close off the choke a bit to keep it from being too lean. When I tried to fine-tune the carb, I noticed the vac leak. After months of chasing it, I finally pulled it apart and redid it. Works pretty good now. I'm curious, what did you notice that made you think it would leak? The runners without sealant?
@@JackofAllTrades1 You didn't wipe out the cam during break in, ruining the engine. That's the best news right there. I didn't notice anything. I thought you had it, not sealing the runners. You said it in the video about the valley pan having crush to seal the runners. Like I said, I was just being an ass. I really thought it was going to seal as well. I've seen cam break ins where super weak springs are used to prevent cam wipe out. I don't know if that works, because the real springs are replaced. Just a pain in the ass compressed air replacement job, me thinks.
These older GM engines do not have pushrods going through the valley pan. I woukd guess if you were looking for Ford stuff then this might not be very helpful for you.
Excellent video. Currently rebuilding a Buick 350 from a 75 Regal. Hard to fine videos on this model-so it was great to see.
Jodas... great to hear. Just an FYI ... I would put sealant around the water jackets and the intake runners. In this video I did just the water jackets but later had to do the runners because I had an intake leak... my intake manifold was not perfectly flat. Good luck
Great job. Taking off a 2bbl intake and installing a 4bbl stock intake on my 350 Buick and this vid was very helpful. Thanks and cheers.
You're really gonna wake that 350 up with a 4 barrel... I drove this GS with a 2 barrel for years and I could tell it couldn't breath. Enjoy!
@@JackofAllTrades1 Thanks Jack!! Looking forward to it, if it ever stops raining.☹☹
Thank you! Doing a buick 350 and this helped.
Great! Something I learned was... since I was reusing a stock intake that wasn't perfectly flat... I needed to put sealant also around the intake ports. Good luck!
Wish I would've seen this video before last weekend. I changed my intake gasket for the Felpro and ditched the end rubber seal for right stuff only. The gaps are so huge and the beads are so thin, it's was a nightmare and a mess to cobble this altogether. Not even sure I did it the right way either...
Yea I've heard some stories about that stuff ending up in the oil pickup tube so I try to use as little as possible. Right now I'm chasing down a vacuum leak on this build and I think it's with the carb... otherwise it could be this pan gasket and I may end up doing this all over again and using that Right Stuff gasket maker around the intake runners. Good luck with your build. As long as you are not leaking oil then you should be fine, that seal is not under a lot of pressure anyway.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Absolutely. The weird thing is that the engine is brand new - I installed the lifter baffle metal thing to use composite intake gaskets. I used the one from TA Performance (they were red) and after one summer, they where "pushed" from above the intake and they tore apart, I've never seen that. I then went with the Felpros but it was a nightmare to put a thick coat of right stuff on the beads. For your problem, if you don't want to install that lifter valley baffle thing, you'll have to use the very same metal gaskets. You may want to put Felpros gasket over the actual metal valley gaskets, or you could indeed put right stuff around the intake/exhaust ports. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much life saver
Great to hear Edgar, thanks.
If you are trying to keep it period correct I would have went with the Edelbrock and painted to match just to save my BACK lol. I have an Iron intake off of a 429 ford that I have in the garage that we literally used for a boat anchor. In all seriousness very thorough job on the install and great explanations.
I may do that in the future... i could just grind off the words...did you see the part where I had my finger pinned between it and the rear of the block? Lol
@@JackofAllTrades1 I missed that but it's easy to do for sure. What all did you end up doing to the engine? Did you have to go inside or are you just resealing everything?
@@PNW_Car_Mods there is a lot... its a 464 now... forged reverse dome pistons .050 over, block is zero decked... oversized valves.. heads ported and bowls blended. Pretty much I want it to look stock from the outside but anything out of sight is fare game. :)
@@JackofAllTrades1 HOLY SHIT I have missed a lot. This is going to be mega awesome!
@@PNW_Car_Mods yea I'm real excited and also nervous about it... I hope to have it all done before next spring. I still have several things on the car to upgrade to support the new engine.
Great Video!!!!!
Thanks I appreciate it.
I gotta ask where the gasket might be available for using 70 intake on a 71 engine (heads). We noticed the wide center port on each head above the small round exhaust ones (which we plugged). The issue is that the 70 intake will not cover the wide center slots which it seems to be for oil. If there is a fix to use early intake with 71 heads we haven't found it yet. Thank you for any help
Gosh... there's a whole science to which one will fit. The v8buick.com website had all the info I needed, but it takes some research. This is a 71 intake on 70 heads in the video. From my understanding, there is not a ton of difference in the heads. I believe the main difference was the piston size in the 70 and 71, and that gave the different CR's.
Luckily, you have pre emission heads. I believe a 71 gasket will work for you. If you see the 70 gasket you will understand, there is not much to it. Also, there shouldn't be any oiling in this area as these heads oil through the pushrod... you may be thinking of the 69 and earlier heads that had different oiling. There are coolant passages but not oil.
My 350 is looking like its a 73 number wise and my intake doesnt have the A.I.R. runners for egr im trying to date everything cause i didnt build it
Probably a 71 or earlier. Did you look for the block code? It'll be stamped right by the oil dipstick mount on the block... right by number 5 and 7 plug.
I hate those gaskets. Been building buicks my hole life. Dont ever use those end seals, even when everything is right they leak in the corners sometimes. Do the Edelbrock B4B, they were available over the counter at the deal back then. I personally think they flow a little better than the performer but if you have a GS with the hood go performer
I've been thinking about doing one of the aluminum intakes. This stock one is less than perfect on the underside, and I think I leak a little vacuum because of it. Thanks for the tip.
@@JackofAllTrades1 B4B flows a bit better but carb is moved. Performer is an exact replacement except you use a Chevy stove choke if your using original carb. It will work with the valley pan but TA and felpeo make paper gasket and you can buy a valley pan from ya to stop splash. It your going to plug the exhaust crossover then you don't need a valley pan really. If you tell me what year your heads are I can tell you the freeze plugs to block the crossover. Can be done in the car,no problem.
@kevin2960 My heads are '70 the block '75 and that intakenis from '71. At one point I was trying to look stock but anybody with a keen eye will notice that my car is a '72 and the '71 intake is vastly different from the '72.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Early 72 is the same as 71 and later 72 is like 73.
@@JackofAllTrades1 I used 3/4 freeze plugs, some say 18mm but my heads were a little over 18mm. Get 4 of each and use what fits. Just tap them in. If you want the choke to function you could drill a small hole in one on each side but I wouldn't. Just use an electric choke or manual.
It's gonna leak.
It did lol. I had to redo it when I couldn't get a steady vacuum reading. I had to add the sealant around the intake runners as well.
@@JackofAllTrades1 Sucks that it leaked, I was just being an ass. All that work and no vacuum, geez. Did you need to us a new valley pan? Hope not.
@charlessmith3758 that setup got me through cam breakin, but it was hell, I ended up having to close off the choke a bit to keep it from being too lean. When I tried to fine-tune the carb, I noticed the vac leak. After months of chasing it, I finally pulled it apart and redid it. Works pretty good now. I'm curious, what did you notice that made you think it would leak? The runners without sealant?
@@JackofAllTrades1 You didn't wipe out the cam during break in, ruining the engine. That's the best news right there. I didn't notice anything. I thought you had it, not sealing the runners. You said it in the video about the valley pan having crush to seal the runners. Like I said, I was just being an ass. I really thought it was going to seal as well. I've seen cam break ins where super weak springs are used to prevent cam wipe out. I don't know if that works, because the real springs are replaced. Just a pain in the ass compressed air replacement job, me thinks.
@@charlessmith3758 it broke in well luckily, had the intake been brand new it may have done better but it was 50 years old and not cleaned up.
Hey man get to the point.
This video has chapters, just skip what you don’t want to see/hear.
ford has push rods going through it do olds and other do the same?? worthless video
These older GM engines do not have pushrods going through the valley pan. I woukd guess if you were looking for Ford stuff then this might not be very helpful for you.
...you're upset that a Buick video isn't a Ford video?