Smooth PLA | No Sanding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2018
- I have been 3D printing for about 4 years now and I have always struggled to find a way to smooth PLA filament. After mistakenly spraying Polyurethane on my 3D model, I decided to see if it was thick enough and would dry fast enough to fill in the layers and I'm happy to say that it does! I hope someone out there find this helpful! Thank you for watching and for your support! More fun projects coming soon!
Note: I did print the skull at a layer height of 0.3 which means detail was lost during printing. A height 0.1 would have been better and taken less time to smooth but I needed an extreme layer height to show how much this method can do!
Do read and follow all safety warnings on all spray cans and 3D printers. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
cool to know but it should be noted that the skull now has lips instead of teeth
Indeed
This made me laugh
Your correct. Maybe we have to make certain areas more pronounced, deeper, so smoothing will not vanquish it
perhaps you could cover the skull with some painters tape before spraying and do so in such areas
😂
You can save the missed details by slicing 3D model with -0.1/-0.2 print expansion in the slicer setting. This will make your model slightly thinner then original. So when you spray - the paint thickness will compensate the model thickness you reduced in slicer - resulting in final painted model being close to original thickness, without details lost from paint.
How will this help losing details?
@@jorisr4717 i think it might sink details a bit in order to allow for material expansion to compensate for
Are these settings in cura slicer too?
I couldn't read which kind of paint you used from the can image. Was is an enamel or acrylic?
interesting concept but i noticed all of the fine details of the skull were lost in the process. ie the teeth.
I did print the skull at a layered height of 0.3 which mean detail was lost in the first place. 0.1 would have been better and taken less time to smooth but I needed an extreme layer height to show how much this method can work.
I think that sandpaper and filler primer is still a better faster option.
It would be nice if there was a quick way to edit the file to be printed with sharper/more pronounced fine details in anticipation of smoothing.
Well that'S the part he kinda forgot to mention, the negatives :D
also how do you do bigger prints ? Tight Tolerances? Moving Parts?
“No harsh chemicals” as you spray paint inside lol
and damn polyurethane
As im breathing muratic acid
@@chroot1838 not much LOL
I think this method would be great on large items. The small ones lose many details in the process. Great idea though! I think I’ll try out on some busts I printed
100% i thought the same thing
"How to remove all details from your print"
turns everything into goop
With what I like to print I can see this being very useful. I love a smooth and shiny look to things that are very simple in shape. Though I think this would never work well on things with more features than a scull.
That’s not the point. You can cover the holes or whatever you want
I use 3D printer for custom boxes for electronic devices, so it's perfect solution for me.
Yeah exactly, that skull lost most of its teeth
alternatively, instead of mixing spraypaint and varnish, would be to use an automotive filling primer. most prop and costume builders use it for their 3D prints, as it's designed to fill in tiny cracks and scratches. i find i use 2-3 coats of filler primer, 2-3 coats of the paint i intend to use, and then 1-2 coats of whatever clearcoat i plan to use, and it removes almost all layer lines.
I've tried acetone followed by primer and vice-versa, but I followed the instructions like a good boy and allowed the first spray to dry a bit before applying the second. I wasn't totally satisfied with how well that method worked, but the results from your method look spectacular, so I'll have to give it a try! Thanks for sharing!
Respirator for Polyurethane unless you've already had kids..
Sterling77
Oh yeah? Well maybe I don't want kids! 😋
He has already had kids, but he wanted to sterilize his cat 😂
@@tin2001 Don't want kids? Then have the kids do it without breathing protection.
You could also do it in a well-ventilated area!
LMAOO
So basically XTC 3D but much easier to apply and at a fraction of the cost, I'll have to try this, thanks for the tip!!
Thanks for making this video! I just tried it and it smoothed my whole print!
Awesome!!! I'm glad to hear positive results. I'm glad it worked for you!
did it affedct the weight?
Just FYI you don't need to heat acetone to smooth with it, you can just give it a large surface to evaporate area such as lining a jar with paper towels. Works great, slightly slower but much safer.
cool mist humidifier. I made a another post here to help create consistency and full coverage with this concept
I think that for some art pieces it can be brush coated by an acrylic paint. It's not expensive and is pretty sticky (and waterproof). Well the downside is that it can be scrub out by nails or something sharp if you'll do it often.
I take a few minutes to X-acto the details in deeper before spraying. Helps to not lose the sharp creases and tiny details.
Great video Sage!! Definitely want to try this soon :D
Awesome!! Thanks Evan and Katelyn! Do try it and share your results! :) I hope it works well for you.
Did y'all try it???
"Can produce a melted 'look' "
Dude. It doesnt look melted, it is melted.
No, it's dissolved, not melted, which isn't the same.
DaToNyOyO That was referring to using acetone for vapor polishing of ABS.
@@GRBtutorials It's a melt my dude not a dissolve.
@@99Plastics melting is caused by heat converting to speed in molecules of a solid, when they speed up enough that the motion overcomes the attractions so that the molecules can move past each other as a liquid, it changes state, dissolving is cause by chemical reactions breaking down the bonds in molecules of a solid so that it moves like a liquid looking for bonds to connect to try and return to a solid.
it's a chemical reaction, not a mechanical reaction like melting.
@@GRBtutorials same looking after affects so really doesn't matter lol
Perfect video, if I want to preserve details, I can make the same steps like in scale models,
1)primer
2)rescue the details with specific tools
3)paint
Awesome video thanks
Lots of critics, but it’s a great solution for certain cases. Not all cases, but where it’s suitable, it’s perfect! Ideally, build yourself a small spray hood/booth with a strong exhaust fan and filters.
Thank you for the kind comment! :)
Thanks, it's always interesting to try new different methods
this is exactly what i needed for the type of projects i do
First printer should be in today. Ender 3. Very excited to tryout some of the different stuff I've seen on your channel and your fellow 3d printing TH-camr's channels. Thanks for sharing all your content. Invaluable to a self teacher/student.
I'm glad you told me that! Thank you for saying that and good luck and have fun with your printer! I think 3D printing is a great educational tool
More commonly a lot of people just use filler primer.
Thanks for the tip. The result lots really good!
Totally trying this! Great find! :-)
Thank you souch for this video. I started sanding a good hour and made little progress. I thought to myself "there has to be another way" so thank you again for sharing.
Thanks for the tip! I'm curious how much difference a professional paint gun using higher pressure and minimal paint might be in small detailed areas.
Interesting technique, the biggest drawback I see is that you lose details, and for tight tolerance joins you might have issues.
The loss of fidelity is a drawback of all smoothing options.
A thin layer of thin cyanoacrelate brushed over areas that either printed thin, need reenforcing, or smoothing out then lightly dusted with baking soda works more than wonders for me.
2k high build filler primer also works very well 👍. Ive had no negative results yet with any 2k industrial car paints 👍
Great info at the beginning and can't wait to try this out! Just ordered and ender3 for my first printer. Subbed
Thank you! :) The Ender 3 is a great printer!
@@3DSage really seems like the best bet for some one starting out. Still just waiting on the delivery. So far the hardest part lol
Well done! Nice tip
That skull went from mean looking to a smiley face.
Very useful, the only issue is on detailed prints , coating with paint subtracts a measure of detail with each coat. Still extremely useful when it’s necessary
This is so useful for creating detailed objects , thanks for sharing 👌🏻
YES! Very helpful. I print with PETG. I will try you technique the next time I get a chance.
Love it. I don't do this a lot, but I switched from bing videos to youtube just so i could subscribe to this guy. I am definitely using this tactic on my future prints!
Thanks for sharing this! Is it possible to spray the polyeurathane first, let it dry then apply spray paint or is it critical to have them mix during curing/drying? Have you tried this?
Very cool! I look forward to giving it a try. Thanks!
You are welcome! Glad I could help.
Interesting approach that may work well integrating into my current workflow. Just curious as to how well this compares to filler primer with no sanding?
Great idea. Gonna try that for sure.
Thanks! Saved to playlist so far to test asap!
KILLZ primer does the same but for a fraction of the price it also comes in a spray can. I had the same issue with smoothing out foam models. Its a thick coating which will smooth out any small details but ultimately give you a smooth surface in one or two coats. You'll have to paint over it at the end of course as it is only sold in white.
Excellent! Thanks.
This is super helpful, thanks!
Brilliant man. Sheer genius.
Hey thank you for saying that!
Often its the simple solutions that people forget about using, thanks!
Great video just started printing and my gf been looking for finishing solutions! Do you think the polyurethane spray can be applied in layers to fill in the ridges while the color or translucent filament can still be seen?
You should consider doing this outside or in a non-finished part of the house. I tried this in an appartment outdoor locker a couple years ago and my roomate's freezer which we kept there ended up with a sweet pearlescent green and white paint. It was awesome but i'm looking at your patio door and vinyl floor and I don't think you want that. Paint smoke always finds its way and really far sometimes :P
I might have to try this method out on a small print I have at home, just to minimise sanding, especially on parts with hard to reach corners
I'll for sure have to try this out
Damn your videos look great. I personally like the texture of 3d printing. Subbed sage keep the good content coming
I'm happy to hear that! Thank you very much. I'm glad I could help in some way.
Fantastic. Great research shared .... many thanks.
Good trick. I've done similar. I use the fast drying primer and about three coats before I put my final color and clear. Same basic effect
I sometimes dip my prints in non toxic epoxy resin. Does remove fine detail, but looks cool and makes it super smooth
I know this comment is from a while ago, but what epoxy resin did you use?
@@john_blues envirotex lite
@@pjz7088 Thanks!
Nice results for sure.
Actually, sandable primer is much easier to work with.
Very nice! Thanks for contributing!
I'm glad I can help!
If you have ever had clear perspex with a scratches on it you can sand till it becomes cloudy then flame to polish it. You can do the same to pla use light flame polishing takes some practice since its easy to melt or crush the PLA but if you can do it you will get a smooth finish and you can manipulate the surface if the print by using using something smooth to smooth out the print.
Polymer chemist here - Melting is a process that happen then heating things, thus applying acetone to ABS doesn't melt it, it lubricates the polymer chains, increasing the their ability to move, thus making it easier to deform the plastic. AND as many already pointed out. The sovlents in the spraypaint and urethane is way more toxic to humans and animals, than the acetone. It should only be used in a well ventilated enviroment as Im sure is already stated one the can. Using the fan spreads the fumes even more. If you care for your cat, dont spray right next to it. This is a prime example of a DIYr who just do stuff without doesn't sit down aquire the knowledge needed for doing it right. That said, very nice results you got with the skull. Maybe try and wait long between the coats
Question: Is the paint necessary with the fast drying polyurethane?
Or can only fast dry still work?
Very helpful, thanks!
Thanks for the tips! subscribed :)
Thank you so much! :)
Thanks, I'll use this. Also thanks for the short vid - others would have dragged this out to 20 mins.
Yes I know what you mean. I didn't want to waste people's time so I kept it short and to the point.
Theres also a product called liquid green stuff you can find at game stores that sell things like miniature paints that works in much the same way, but comes in a brush on form.
That looks pretty. Thanks.
Great tip!
Thank you! :)
Great tip for speedy fill-in. For a better result (with a bit more labour) a quickly sanded layer of build primer would do nicely.
i have a feeling an initial sand followed by 1-2 of these coats could be the perfect mix.
Hey dude, great video. I saw your post on Angus' non-review of that pile of crap and thought I'd check it out. My only complaint with this method which is akin to any smoothing option currently available is the loss of fidelity. However if fine details are not a concern I think the method you demonstrated would be worth a shot. Thanks!
Nice! Yes the mixture will fill in the layers and some of the small model details but I think this is a good method to keep in mind, depending on the model and it's level of detail.
I use gesso mixed with acrylic paint at a ratio 1:1 or 2 acrylic 1 gesso and then paint a few coats over the model after a round of sanding... (probably it ll work pretty well without sanding) the layer lines get covered and disappear depending on your skills and quality of gesso and acrylic then you can sand it for a final smooth surface. Also you can paint it after that. However each coat of gesso needs around a day to dry. Details remain almost the same depending on how big the model is of course. Give it a try, my first ones were not that great but after some practice you ll see great results. Good luck
For abs, you could probably use a cool mist humidifier for Acetone with 3 small slow moving fans within the sides of a bucket across from each other on a 45 degree angle to keep the spread even and have it set on a timed plugin for consistent results.
Ok this is gold
best videos I would like to add that there are also colored PU spray paints (water-based) that make it work a little faster.
It is super cool! I was thinking to buy ABS, but after I saw this method I will only print in pla and petg!
I was actually wondering if this would work only a few minutes ago! And then this video just magically pops up and confirms my theory! xD 🧙♂️🔮
Perfect! :)
Here is your answer!!!
*Chemicaly Smoothing PLA*
"Generally these days I start by brushing on some Dichloromethane (DCM, or methylene chloride). This stuff is really very nasty and I do this work either in a fume hood or outside with a fan blowing away from me. I use a respirator with chemical filters, PVA gloves and full eye glasses. Do not use this chemical unless you’ve taken the proper safety precautions! However I found no other solvent even remotely as good at smoothing as Dichloromethane. Apparentl Tetrahydrofuran (THF) is ok, though I’ve not tried it. Acetone is completely useless, as PLA is completely insoluble in Acetone. Due to the nastiness of Dichloromethane I’ve never attempted doing vapor smoothing, but the simple cold brush on works surprisingly great. Sometimes I do two “coats”. With each coat the Dichloromethane dissolves the surface layer of the PLA and the resolidifies, running into the cracks. It also conveniently seals any tiny holes in the print where print layers have failed to fuse properly. Another method is to spray on many coats of a lacquer, e.g. shellac. This has some problems though during burnout and can leave undesirable carbon residues in the mold which can be tricky to remove. With higher burnout temperatures though this has been less of a problem."
mtyka.github.io/art/2016/12/11/lostpla-casting-glass.html
Ethyl acetate dissolves PLA. I have yet to find a video on it though.
I've had pretty good luck using one of the fine point heat guns you use for soldering surface mount devices. If you keep it moving you get a smooth glossy surface on the pla.
I was wondering about that. I have a heat gun and was wondering what would happen if I used it on some PLA. Will have to gi e thata try.
@@sunnydoom2726 The heat gun I have for surface mount parts has a nozzle that is about 1/8 in. diameter. Once I got the hang of it, it worked pretty well, but I can't stress enough the importance of keeping it moving.
Fantastic!
Good idea, but new technology is available.
Note about PLA, new information came out in 2020 indicating that it's not actually that biodegradable. It will biodegrade if you place it in a commercial composter at 140F, but it will not biodegrade in your garden.
Second note: in 2019, Prusa introduced a feature where you can change the layer height in the print at various stages. This allows you to print the sections with vertical walls at 0.3mm layer heights and the sections with near horizontal curves at 0.1mm layer heights in the same print.
"any sources of cat" just that made me subscribe :D
Useful video thank you :)
Haha thank you for the sub! I post a few pics of him on my Instagram. He always tries to "help" while i'm trying to film a project.
Thanks for the tip.
You cna actually easily smooth PLA with some Acetone Fumes. Basically, you put a cup or box with acetone soaked in a paper towel on the inside over the print, and you leave it for about 45 minutes and let the fumes soak in, then you remove it and let it dry, it smooths very nicely.
Good information. Thank you
I'll save you guys 3 minutes:
Paint it.
@Lithus17 no he was doing tl;dr
Is even making a 2:50 video demonstrating something a crime these days? Okay, people who make 20 minute long videos about something that can be explained in 5 minutes, yes that is annoying. But less than 3 minutes?? What are you crying about
@@lijkenkist1 The video should mention "paint" in the headline for people that have no interest is painting their parts.
@@lazlo342 That was not the point of this comment. Only the duration
@@lijkenkist1 I was aware of the of your comment.
Filler primer also will do the same type of thing
First off what is your layer height? I would recommend 0.12 layer height as that gave me awesome results so I didn't have to smoot my prints as much
🎉There is a possibility!!! I am a biochemist and I was bord in the lab, so I tried different chemicals on my PLA prints 😅 Acetonitrile vapor works perfectly on PLA.
dear god why is this channel not more popular
Life. Saver.
I will try this method, thx for the video!
dont lol
Daaaaam brooo, u just saved my life, woooow, thanks!!!!
AWESOME!
Cool tip, I'll have to give this a try.
Thank you! And yes please do! :)
Would plasti dip work as a good alternative to the spray paint?
really cool idea, iwill test that. Is that polyurethane something like satin varnish?
asking again....what about a Silk PLA? Can I do this with just polyurethane as I want to retain the silk color?
Not sure if it was the fact that it was a gothic looking skull, but I actually liked the thick layer look on that model.
If your going that route, just get a sandable primer. It’s purpose is to fill holes and gaps (minor holes and gaps, it’s not bondo. Lol.) you will retain a lot more over all detail in your piece.
Thanks for this video ❤️
You're welcome! :)
Nice Tip Than k-you for your time and effort