CHEAP BENCH GRINDER - How To Make It Run Great!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2020
- We take an inexpensive (OK, cheap) 8 inch bench grinder and make it run great. Not everyone can afford a $2000 Baldor grinder and this is a good way to save some money!
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[FULL EP.13] เซียนหรั่ง พา ไททศมิตร ลงเรือฝึกสกิลหว่านแห | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EWFuf2Av0K0/mqdefault.jpg)
First one showed missing parts. Second one was complete. It's a working bench grinder th-cam.com/users/postUgkxxC8HPnl24fu0XhMU_nbmWNEUoK1RMHXk . One thing I like alot is that it's surprisingly quiet. I don't feel like I'm sacrificing any rpms or power for the quietness either. All in all it's a very nice machine. No vibration whatsoever.
I have to say, the twenty odd years that I've had my grinder, I thought wiggling and out of balance was just the nature of the beast. I'll add the truing of my bench grinder to the bucket list of thing I need to do. Thank you very much!
Love the added humour with the Metal Printer.
Thanks for posting a video that can make people smile.
Thank you so much!
Great diagnosis Yuchol. The attention to detail makes a world of difference when looking for precision. Thanks
Thanks Terry as always
Just a thought from and old machinist. Any time your remove a wheel for any reason, ring test and true it. As you know by placing a small screw driver or rod in the center hole and lightly tapping the side of the wheel with a small wrench, you will hear it ring. If it sounds flat (dull sound) it has internal flaws or the start of a crack and if so, immediately place it your trusty vise and break it with a hammer...preventing anyone else from using it, as a defective wheel will blow (disintegrate) causing them to get hurt.
I might add...that was a good find on the shaft Take care be safe ;
Thanks for the tip
Great video, I need to do this to my 10" buffer and 8" grinder. I never thought you could get rid of so much of the vibrations.
I love videos like this. It's can be a lot of fun taking an inexpensive mediocre tool and making i better.
Dudley Toolwright me too, we hobbyists can’t compete with sponsored big shots as far as the equipment goes and making do with what we have and making them better is a hobby in itself. That’s why I watch your channel 😁
An easier and effective solution is to simply rotate the flanges and individual Grinding Wheels to different (marked) positions. This by itself will usually help as the cheap Flanges are more than likely not perfectly true. . Paper shims are also effective in shimming and can get a wobbly wheel running quite true. I felt I wanted to mention this as MANY here do not own Lathes or Milling machines and just have more basic Shops with Bench Grinders. I have been using this method for both inexpensive and even high quality Bench Grinders for 40 years with much success - you should try it! There are a bunch of TH-cam videos on how to true up grinding wheels. While your efforts did seem to help they are not achievable without expensive machinery.
Thanks Yuchol. I enjoyed the steps to making your grinder better. Hope you and your family are healthy and all doing well 😊.
All the best,
Norm in Arizona
Thanks Norm, we are doing well!
I like it. I'm going to try getting my old Craftsman grinder smoother after watching this. Smoother is safer, more accurate and just more enjoyable to use. Thanks !
Thanks heaps. I laughed and I learned, that’s all I need from a video. I have made a simple way to balance wire wheels pretty well but never considered chasing those few thou on the grinding wheel. Can’t wait to try that. That cost you almost nothing to do except time and for most of us hobbyists we have more time than money and that was time well spent. You have another sub.
Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
well said Stuart. agreed 100 percent
Wonderful video. Informative, understandable and humorous. Thank-you so very much!
Joe Dance thanks Joe!
Hello sir, great video, I am having the same problem, I will now attempt to follow your advice
thank you so much. Colin, UK.
I have the same problem with my low cost pedestal type grinder. Some Great tips to improve runout . Thanks BB
Thanks Bill
I'm going to be doing mine now that I've seen how well this has worked out. Thanks for the inspiration.
Dread Naught thanks!
all the work you did ... I can only call you what you are!! MASTER OF THE CRAFT!! So much honor and respect to your kind of work. I hope to see more Americans follow your lead. Thank you so much for your time, effort, and most of all -- your attitude.
alsatian9130 wow, thank you!
Amazing how a bit if tinkering with the right tools and knowledge makes a world of difference. Well done.
Also, the printer impressed me so much I have ordered one from Ebay. I've gone for the Canon MX310 model (the same as yours) around £120 mark which is relatively cheap considering what it's capable of doing. The scaling up/down function sounds great and from what you show, the results are incredible. I can't believe this is the first time I've seen one being used. Very Impressed Sir. Show some more please!
This was very very well done had me to the end.👍🏽
Outstanding video, great idea to use your superpower skills to machine out all the slop of the initial build. Thanks I'm sure to copy your smart fixes here. Cheers
great project Yuchol. Thanks for sharing....now I have some work to do on the three "cheap" grinders I have.
Cheers from Canada
bhein67 good luck!
Thank you, great video! I need to check my grinder and likely tune it up.
anything you do to it will likely make it run better!
I tried the printer hack but all I got was a paper copy! Nicely done. Some people just don't get it, you do it for fun and have all the expensive equipment because you love it...some people buy sports cars or golf, etc. Whatever bring you joy in this insane world.
I love it. Here in the Police State of Salina Kansas the older folks 60 / 65 and up. ( My parents) That whole generation says caish traish aish worsh wuvs wuff. It makes a person wonder what they were teaching in the first grade back then. Great video btw I'm subscribing. I like the way you thought this out. Then used the equipment and stuff on hand to turn a turd tool into a scookum choocher!
Pretty cool, Thanks It looks like I am in my shop tomorrow ,trying the ideas.
Oh man what a wonderful difference - I've been intending to do this to mine for a while, now I'm feeling more optimistic about the results.
Give it a try!
I really appreciate your sense of humor. Keep it up!
Thanks John!
Well done, a true professional, thank you!
Gene Fortney thanks Gene!
Hi Yuchol. i am sure this problem exists for most home machine shops , what a great /cheap/ effective solution . no more tears . Cheers Ade.
ADES WORKSHOP thanks Ade for your kind words as always 🙏🏼
So now I know the difference between a cheap and a well made bench grinder other than motor size and power thank you 👍
Oh My, I really love your humor and choice of music too....Cheers, Paul
Probably everyone has a grinder like that. This is encouraging and simple to do.
Thanks
Simple if you have a lathe......
@@LilasTools ... $4000 later, you can make washers for your $100 grinder xD
Thanks for this tip. I will do the same. Keep up I like your stuff
Ettore di Carlo thank you!
Excellent video & very useful , and the humor was awesome !!! :-)
Thank you sir!
Great video - illustrates the adage that we'd love to have better tools but it's more important to love the tools we have.
Well said
Good video Yuchol, much better after your repairs.
Thanks for sharing.
Wow I learned something pretty cool today, Thanks.
Very informative- did not read all the comments, but I'm sure the flawed construction components were addressed. Your treatment of the tool was excellent and fun!! Bet you could get whatever you asked for that printer...
Excellent video and process. Love the jokes. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
I loouuve your attitude: lets make it better, no matter how good it is.
Despite what most people think, you cant buy away quality problems, you will only buy new problems.
CXensation a lot of truth to that. Thanks
Did the same thing to my Harbor Freight grinder. It was much worse than your at the start but was smooth after the fix. This was before I started my channel so I did not video it. But you are right this method fixes about 95%of the vibration. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Anthony, was definitely worth my time
It is interesting how such a simple fix makes such a huge difference. I am probably going to be doing this with my grinders this weekend.
I want that freaking printer.
No matter what ever the cost. 😂 😂
Naw, I tried it, just turns out paper copy...lol
Good video. I've had to do all the same steps, and ended up turning spacers like yours, but with a nose to center the wheel on the shaft. And for what it's worth, although my Norton wheels cut great, they were actually less true and balanced than the stock wheels, so all these steps are well worth the effort. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks Yuchol, Great Video With Lots Of Helpful Advice--You Keep Adding To My Projects List Brother! (Keep It Up) ;-]
Michael Rosenlof sorry not sorry 😜
Great! My grinder bit the dust and this definitely helps me feel better about the new ones wobbling LOL.
A good video - gives me thoughts for one I am playing with for a tool cutter and grinder....
glenn whitchurch thanks Glenn!
That was groovy man! Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Yves!
Very well presented. My grandmother used to say worsher too.
Cool timing. I am tuning up the rests on my grinder this week. I lived with it for a long time, but finally decided it was time to do something about them.
Good luck Brian!
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Thank you!
Even the difference in sound was noticeable after you put the shin in the right side only the after the left side shin was inserted it sounded like a precision machine. Nice video. I have a REALLY cheap grinder and I’m going to get to work on it.
Thanks, I am happy with the result
"Im never the type to let a safety concern stop me from entertaining my viewers"... this sounds like it might be my kind of channel!!!
🤣
I had to also make clam-on collars to act as a backup for the inside washer as the shaft shoulder was destroyed by the stamped washer. As a teenager in the mid 60s I worked in a machine shop that made belt driven bench grinders. This sure brought back memories. Great video.
Wow, thanks for sharing
Yep- need to do this! Well done!
Seven years ago and used. I didn't just come down with the rain last night. Brand new right out of the box.
Love that printer! Great video... Bob
I enjoy your content. Very practical stuff!
Thanks
Oh I just loved the printing!! If only it were that easy Yuchol! Good fix mate, I love those white aluminium oxide wheels, the do as you say make hogging off HSS very easy. I have a Record power 8" grinder which has a normal 25 mm wide wheel one side and a 40mm white alox wheel the other and I use it for all my HSS woodturning toolgrinding. And now that I'm doing metal turning, I will use it for any HSS bits I make. Nice video and thanks for posting.
SAMRODIAN thank you!
Good job. Very nice results.
Thanks Mike, I am happy with the result
Love that printer!!
I thought that's just how bench grinders run. This is quite revelation to me! I can't wait to tune mine up now. Thank you, thank you, thank you! All the best, @HoneyOnWales
DrewT thanks and good luck!
Nice job. Great little project idea. 👍
"Special Printer" haha loved it
very illuminating. i can tell you're a TOT devotee as well.
👍 well done sir.
I did a similar process to my grinder. Working on new guards/rests that are more ridged than the stamp steel. Ever notice how good grinders have cast steel guards? Big difference when grinding, lot of flex.
So true. new tool rest project will be coming soon
Very informatively entertaining , thank you !
steve golden thank you Steve!
first time watching your videos and i have to say , super cool .. its rare to see me laugh through any informative videos , but I was with u. i will definitely be subscribing. nicely done!!
Awesome, thank you!
It feels so good to watch that thing run so smooth 😅😎
I know! 😁
And just think after 40 years of running a lathe I could have gotten a copier, man am I upset.enjoyed the video.Thank You Jake Bissel.
G’day Yuchol. Good video with some common sense thinking thrown in, goes to show what a little detail work can do. Cheers
Peter
PGS thanks Peter!
Good Job getting this to work better. I need a printer like yours:)
You can’t have mine
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I think it would be expensive anyway. :)
Hey, great idea.
I have a Dewalt 8" grinder I don't use because it walks across the table. I'm going to make some washers!!
Thanks for the idea,
That 'Powermatic' looks identical to my 6" Delta, which I purchased about 10 years ago. It has the exact same problems. Great job making it a useful grinder again!
p.s., ...hi from eastern worshington.
Great work thanks for sharing.
Thanks Sam!
just another suggestion ... if you want your grinder to spin down faster after turning off the power... replace the switch with a double pole double throw (DPDT). Wire the motor windings to the center contacts, line and neutral to the on side contacts and the off side contacts need to be shorted together. This will give the motor regenerative braking and slow the motor faster when it goes to the off position. Allot of discount chop saws to this for safety reasons.... (just a thought) Thanks for the informative video.
What you describe works for brushed motors, however these bench grinders are brushless inductive motors and I doubt that shorting the windings will make much difference to spin down.
Excellent work there. Well done.
Thanks!
I smoothed out my Craftsman grinder with simply installing a set of new bearings.
The fact that I got the grinder something like 30 or 40 years ago might have had something to do with the bearings being rough.
I inherited one of those from my dad, installed new wheels and the difference was astonishing!
Great job, should have shown us you truing up the wheels runout
Noticeable less vibration. Great job!
Thanks for this video, i also use bench grinder to sharpen cuticle nippers and nail cutter. 👌😉...
It looks like I know what I am going to be doing this weekend. I thought I was going to have to replace bearings and have been putting off dealing with my grinders. Thanks for the motivation and congratulations on making such a great improvement on your grinder.
Thanks Robert. Start with simple things and see where that takes you.
Great and informative video...loved your 3D printer too😄👍
Thanks Jerry 😁
Thanks! Very informative..
Thanks Michael
I inherited the 6 1/2" version of this from my dad. He had tried his best to get on with it but it shook like mad. I dialed it up and it was reasonably true. Then i noticed a jump in the dial-gauge; the bearings were made of chocolate. £5 later, fit new bearings, reassemble, fit wheels correctly and outdoor true-up. It's nice now, only hums a little, without shakes.
Great job. I am planning to upgrade my own bench grinders in this same way. Do you think you can do a video of the wheel balancer you proposed to make?
I will when I can get to making one. Hopefully soon 👍🏼
I did the same and than went one Further and popped it apart . I put the armature in my lathe between centers and trued up a few things on the shaft that were running out along with a good set of bearings .. now it runs really smooth. So add them steps in for a full tune.
I need that Damned Printer!!!
Good work, I had a similar problem with my grinder. The shafts had 3 to 5 thousandths tapper and the shoulder's where rough. I pulled the armature. Mounted it between centers in the lathe. Turned the shaft and shoulders to within a thousandth. Made new clamping discs. Shimmed the bearing to end housings to minimize the side to side motions, as the bearings where slip fit in the housings. Now it runs smooth as silk.
That is the correct way. This guy wasted a lot of time and effort to acheive a tiny improvement.
Given the eventual use of the lathe, and the eventual use of shims, I'd have expected that the grinder axle would have been placed in the lathe and the exposed shafts and shoulders made regular very early in the process.
Now that you have done the work the factory didn't do you have made a world of improvement.
Thanks. It turned out better than I was expecting 😁
I have had a similar grinder for at least nine years for sharpening my wood turning tools. Purchased a balancing system that replaces the stamped washers. Even then over time as you use and redress the wheels I need to rebalance cause the density of the wheel is not that uniform.
Thanks for the ideas. Did it run smoother after dressing the wheels?
Yes it did
I made washers for my old craftsman block grinders as well as changing bearings out to premium SKF
good job man !
Tanks I was learnded ........tanks Yucho
Eduardo Tejeda thank you!
Wanna go to the beach? Just try grinding with those wheels...white sand everywhere!! (Well, at least the original wheels on my Rikon low speed grinder did that).They must have been made with white silica sand bonded with Elmer's school glue for kids!!
It's a nice job, thank you for these explanations.
Personally, I prefer to use old machines as a base. They are no more complicated to repair and generally have better robustness and better performance than these light machines.
Agree with yuu
Nice fix . I can speak on a different level of balancing a wheel and that is many years of running precision grinders which need to be balanced for close tolerance work and the bench grinder is no different when wanting a sharp edge on a wood tool or a lathe bit for turning metal. Manufactured wheels for those grinders are made and cooked to different specs and a lot less balancing but still required. I to have used the same method you did with the same results. It didn't take out completely but it did improve. Now I have always wanted to side dress like I had to do in the shop ( not every wheel ) but there were occasions where it was needed to balance and get on with production. This process was done with a fixture that sat on a magnetic chuck . A 45 degree arm that was loaded with a diamond nib and manipulated by hand. This would true up the sides and make for a very well balanced wheel. My point being I would like to try this on my bench grinder to see if that would help true these cheaply made wheels.
There's another trick which would have helped correct the residual out-of-balance. Particularly in a case like this where the wheel has been trued when there was clearance in the bore (or in the more usual case where the wheel has worn out of shape) it's pointless trying to true it at any speed greater than about the first harmonic. Which is a LOT less than 1700, or whatever the base speed is on a bench grinder.
In the following explanation, the word "you" is directed at anyone reading this who wants to get a really smooth running wheel. Ideally you should be able to touch a fingerprint to the wheel outer surface when it's running, and if you do it gently, and the dressing is geometrically perfect, you won't lose any skin. Here's how to get there (having followed the excellent suggestions in the clip, but if anything, make the centre hub of the flanges longer yet, for better engagement and improved squareness to the spindle. As pointed out in the clip, the shoulders on the spindle are so low as to be ineffective in this role, but the solution is to derive decent guidance from the cylindrical portion of the spindle. Just rely on the spindle's shoulder to prevent the flange moving inwards, not to hold it square. Don't worry about making the outer flanges wider, just the inner ones. The outer ones will partially end up on the male spindle thread anyway, but the inner ones will dictate the squareness of the wheel)
To achieve the required low revs for dressing: Ideally you'd set up a temporary belt drive from a low speed motor at the far end. You can use a flat belt onto the other wheel. But here's a quick and dirty way which works well:
Take a diamond nib in a suitable holder (they have a handle like a chisel, and a coaxial hole which is a close fit on the shank of the nib, and a clamp screw)
Run the grinder just long enough that the sound of the motor is about half the rated speed (for the musically inclined that's an octave lower in pitch, but it doesn't matter a damn.)
Let the speed run down and take note of the speeds at which the wobble is worst. These are harmonics, and you want to wait until it gets below the last wobbly speed before you start dressing. This won't give you much time before the speed is too slow for dressing, so just dress a single groove deep enough that the dressing tool is no longer being pushed in and out every rev. The root of the groove will then be more or less true to the spindle.
Then repeat, making a series of close spaced grooves, almost touching each other, all made below the first harmonic speed.
Truing is like turning grooves on a wood lathe. The toolrest must be close to the wheel, and apply a heavy enough inwards force to engage quite aggressively with the wheel, with NO side-to-side movement.
The aim is to get rid of the off-centre material, and the reason to do this at slow speed is that, at higher speeds, the wheel will take charge and force the grinder spindle (and to some extent, the whole grinder) to "orbit" in such a way that the wheel is rotating, not about the centre of its hole, but about its centre of mass.
It's the same thing you see in a spin dryer when above a certain speed it suddenly runs smoothly. That's because the spindle drive is suspended in springs to allow this latter mode to happen without strain.
In a bench grinder, with no springs, there is a residual movement of the grinder. But more importantly, it's a waste of time dressing the wheel because it just perpetuates the out-of-balance, keeping the centre of mass in the same (wrong) place and wasting grit for nothing.
Once you've got rid of most of the out of balance material, you can risk spinning a bit faster to get rid of the rest.Once you've got rid of ALL the vibration, you can fine dress at full speed. (ideally with a T-handle diamond-grit dresser, but a dressing stone does a fair job). If you've done it properly, you can apply the fingerprint test. If you have any doubts, use a bit of leather first, like the side or end of a heavy belt, gently touching the wheel. It's not as sensitive a test but your fingerprints will thank you.
If you're trying to get really sharp edges on lathe or boring tools, you will be astonished how much better the result is from a perfectly smooth-running wheel. Provided the bearings are OK and you follow the suggestions in this clip and then this post, it does not need to be an expensive grinder to give superb results.
Steadier as she spins! Good machine tooling, sir!
Thanks Tod
Great result Yuchol. I need to do this to my larger grinder. I believe some of the error is in the clamping discs, and shaft/hole size differences as with yours, but also on one end of mine is a wire wheel, which is horribly out of balance.
I notice your grinder has a 5/8" shaft (15.875mm), but the wheels have a nominal 16mm bore (likely a smidge oversize for clearance). That works out to about 0.005" which accounts for at least half of the shaft size errors. They sent you the wrong wheels! :)
With my wire wheel, I am struggling to remember, but I believe it came with a range of plastic insert bushings, which are just injection moulded, and which are not precise at all. At the time I set it up though, my most sophisticated metalworking machine was the lowly angle grinder, so I left it well alone. I should go back to it one of these days and sort it out properly. Thanks for the inspiration. And as usual - great lighting, audio, storytelling, and metalworking - great video overall. Cheers! Craig
Thanks Craig. I am sure they included whatever cheap wheels they had.
Really good information, well done.
Thanks!
If we all had that printer we wouldn't need as many tools! There's no crying in grinding!
"Warsh" is a regional dialect. An accent linguist could tell you where she grew up (or at least spent a lot of time) by that alone. It's fairly unique.
Some searching leads to:
"warsh" is the predominant characteristic of what linguists call America's midland accent. The accent can be found in the swath of the country that extends west from Washington, taking in Maryland; southern Pennsylvania; West Virginia; parts of Virginia; southern Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; most of Missouri; and Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma, much of Kansas and west Texas.
And:
It traces back to Scotch-Irish immigrants at least a couple hundred years ago. Midland English is described as "firmly rhotic", where rhotic means "of or pertaining to a dialect of English in which the r is pronounced at the end of a syllable or before a consonant"
;-)
BTW -- you should never operate a bench grinder without having it locked in place somehow. For obvious reasons as you can see. The obvious solution for the above test (and some variant of a permanent situation would be to use a larger board as a mounting board to bolt it down to, then use a pair of clamps to tie said board to the mounting surface. This is usually a good idea even if you then fix the mounting board itself to the bench with bolts.
Great job Yuchol👌
Thanks Clarke!