It might not be the backplate causing the wobble. When you tighten the nut on the motor shaft it will not be exactly square to threading. This will result in the backplate not pressing evenly against the stop behind it. This is usually fixed by using self centering washers which are essentially two washers with opposing conical faces. These conical faces will slide against each other and compensate for the out of squareness of the nut.
Less than a minute in and you have already just eyeballed the damned diamond wheel alignment. Among engineer-artisan channels, you are one of a kind, Uri. Never change.
There’s something about adding brass to a build it adds class. It’s like the James Bond of all the materials.Anyway thanks for sharing I always enjoy your content
Uri your skill and ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. What you do with your limited tools is very creative and inspiring. And I like your good spirits and sense of humour very much. What else can I say? Oh ... just keep your workpiece secured for Gods sake! And save your fingers and other bits! Thanks for sharing, best wishes on all your projects.
It is such a pleasure at watching you design and create your works of art. Your silly side is wonderful and your so creative. I’m very happy I ran across your channel I guess almost two years ago. Just love all your creations Uri. 👍👍👍
I love this channel and I appreciate everything you do. I understand and appreciate your processes and all the little quirks that I feel I have in common as an artist and creative myself. I love that you show your real self, the happy creative. I like to think I have a broad knowledge over many areas that allows me to think in a way that nurtures and drives my creativity. But you are on a whole other level. You encourage me to continue learning and teaching myself. Everything you do is so creative and I love the new Pigeon studio soundtrack 😊 it’s awesome. Love to you and your family from New Zealand 🇳🇿❤️
The brass nuts don't work because the lever arm of the tool post can act against the thread. Even using steel bolts will not fix this, I think. Designs similar to this that work use a pivot pin and then clamp the two mating faces together, but have an interlocking pattern on the mating faces so they cannot slip. Perhaps a hinge pin combined with a series of pin holes that set the arm at specific angles?
@@urituchmanpigeon I really enjoy your videos buddy. I cant wait to see what you make next. I'd love to see you do more of those figurines that you carve and that move.
That was wonderful, but the drill press sections were pretty scary. Maybe some drill press clamps would be a good idea for a future project, perhaps with some brass.
It does look scary, but one can get pretty fast at pulling their hand away when the bit starts spinning the work peice, especially considering drill presses are set at lower speeds for metals. You can see he used vise grips after, which is a very good way of holding small peices that would otherwise be too small to clamp to the work surface.
You only have to get whacked a few times and then you learn. Hopefully with all your fingers intact. I used to tack weld by closing my eyes in a hurry. Sandpaper eyeballs taught me to use the helmet even when lazy.
Uri, you need to look into the Harold Hall books for lathe and mill home made gadgets. Then you can embellish them with your characteristics. I think it would be a real benefit to you in your shop.
Uri Tuchman is the Bob Ross of the maker-world. Every episode is full of “oh my gahd I made a little mistake there. And there. And over here too”, but somehow each piece comes out looking amazing. Imagine how it would be oh he didn’t make any happy little accidents.
I made a similar thing to you with a mount that took every grade of diamond disks for marble top finishing. Mine was for polishing and cutting Opals, I also made a water feed gravity fed with a tap.
There is a word in italian that describe you very well: pasticcione. I can't find the translation cause the meaning is not so negative as the english words, but even if you are a pasticcione, you are always dead precise, i can't understand how you manage to build perfectly functioning tools like this🤣 is always a pleasure to watch your videos
Uri, this turned out amazing!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ But one piece of advice? Breathe! You were on high speed through the whole video!!! You can catch your breathe now!!!
Uri, Check the shoulder on the bench grinder, sometimes they are not nicely machined. The slightest of burrs will throw that 7 or 8 inch diameter out quite a lot at full diameter. Your original backing plate may still be fine to use. Use a fine flat hand file and use the NON safe edge against the grinder spindle shoulder, rotate it by HAND to check for burrs. You may also find that the shoulder has a radius, so your backing disc will need a slight bevel to the hole to miss the radius. Good Luck fixing it. Regards from Australia.
to even the back plate i would put three spots of cusi with a tig welder and file them until the weel runs centered. you can also drill a larger hole into the disc and make a bronze bushing spacer and try to make the bushing more precise. if the disc is not flat you can sand that to be flat on a flat surface.
I've been planning to make a diamond grinding setup on my lathe. I was planning on making a plywood rest, but now you have me thinking I should step it up 🤔 great design
Neat! Don't worry about the guard..diamond doesn't cut & the wheels unlikely to explode!! Re the flat lap..the grinder flanges might need truing to the grinder spindle (standard grinders aren't precision kit)!
Gotta be able to sharpen that carbide... Well done Uri. The wobble could also be in the washers, the shaft itself, or play in the grinder motor. Most bench grinders have some sort of play/run out. The more expensive ones have less. There are beveled washers you can buy for the mounting shaft then you his have to play with a pair of washers to get that perfect adjustment to true your grinding wheel, or in your case diamond plate. Bench grinders aren't really designed for face plates, but for edge wheels. But a true running shaft is a true running shaft. Good luck.
I have the same set up in my shop. I have 3 registration pins and have the disc mounted on a plate with magnets. Can go from course to very fine in seconds.
Love the build of the table and miter fence! You are a maestro at this kind of build!! 2 issues: first, use conical or cup and seat washers for the back plate and lapping disc as @Dan Letkeman says below. Once that is done you could use your miter fence to true the running face and edges of the back plate with sand paper and a square block. Second, most grinders run at 1750rpm which is way too fast for lapping disc and will wear them out quickly. If you can find an inline speed controller for the grinder to get the speed down to around 800-1000 it will help a lot. Typical lapping plate systems actually spin around 4-500rpm. Thanks for the fun build!!
Thanks for the video Uri, I'm inspired to turn the left hand end face plate sander on a wood lathe into diamond wheel. I suggest you make or buy vice for your drill press next !
There are special washers that take the wobble out, they are spherical, I believe? They come in sets of two and nest together and compensate for things being off.
Uri, just a few things. If you want a concentric washer, turn it in the centers. Your chuck has a huge runout. Or replace a three jaw chuck with 4 jaw independent one and use an indicator while clamping. The speed of your grinder is way too fast for such a work. Use a variac to crank it down to about 300 rpm. You was the one inspired me to start learning engraving on diy tooling. I started after your video with a hammer and now I built all tools by myself including apex graver holder and a graver hone. I am not an artist like you, but I am mechanical engineer and have access to machines. If you have technical questions maybe I can answer it. Beretzinut!
The grinder uses an induction motor. A VFD would be needed for speed control, and even then speed controlling a single phase induction motor is sketchy at best.
@@slavayorish4836 Sorry, but the speed of induction motors is set by the line frequency not the supply voltage. Dropping the voltage reduces the torque not the speed. I've been modding a small bench grinder like Uri's to do drill sharpening and other grinding work and I'm stuck with the motor's design speed (50Hz UK mains voltage x 60 seconds = 3000 rpm, just about -- there's a rotating magnetic "drag" that keeps the motor spinning so it's a little less than 3000 rpm). I could use a variable-frequency drive (VFD) to reduce the speed a bit by reducing the supply frequency but the motor windings are designed for 50Hz or thereabouts and the motor wouldn't work properly below 35Hz or so.
@Robert Sneddon Robert, i had a success controlling a blower with a variac because it had a relatively constant load on the shaft. In case of a grinder it will not work. You right. The solution I would suggest is to use either a sinchronous motor, or a DC motor. The popular choice is a DC motor and controller from an old threadmill. For my graverhone I used a teknik servomotor, but it was a waaay overkill.
Diamond at high speeds deposits carbon into the sharpened piece. This is mostly experienced in industry but I’ve heard of guys power grinding their knives with diamonds and it ruining them. The ideal abrasive material would be CBN or Cubic Boron Nitride, but if it’s any harder to get than diamonds then I wouldn’t worry. Keeping things cool and or lubricated can cut down on that quite a bit. You’re a natural toolmaker Edit: I thunk you’d have fun with a 0.5-40 micron diamond paste pack. I got one from venev for like $12 and it makes polishing hard materials a breeze.
I kind of lost touch after your son was born and you kind of took a break from video making. Good to see you back. Seemingly a nice shop too. I think the last video I had seen was the live stream with your wife's friend acting as more or less host that then ended with the camera seemingly going mad on its own. I like your mini lathe. I have a Shopsmith wood lathe that I enjoy using and an old Oliver small metal lathe from around 1900 that needs converted to V Belt and they certainly are enjoyable to utilize and it shall be interesting to see what you output with yours.
You're slinging some chips now buddy. Lol. I really enjoy watching you make stuff. The comedy is a plus lol. Hope you're doing well buddy. I bet you miss your cats walking around what you're working on lol.
Excelente tutorial Uri , como de costumbre , es un placer verte trabajar con las manos , cuidarlas mucho , gracias por compartir tanto ingenió y conocimientos , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón (Galicia)🤓 🔝
Super interesting video, but I have a question. Why didn't you set the support plate higher, i.e. above the axis? Then you would have the entire width of the grinding plate available, and it would certainly be less dangerous for your fingers
I'm glad to see you have a Taig lathe, they are flexible little machines that really lend themselves to shop made modifications too. Looking forward to seeing your projects progressing!
Yuri one thing when you are cutting with the saw CUT in the right side not in the left side because you can shock you hands at the table. In the right side tour hand go to the Air and can not shock your knockles good video yuri
Small projects like these are my favorites. If you get them right the first time it's so satisfying but if you need to remake them because they are to small or to big the "how to make" process and the "don't do thats" has already been done so all you have to do is scale up or down. I have to admit I have copied some of the things Uri has made. 🤫🤫 love this channel.
Excellent build friend, I'm sure there are things to update. A real backplate will do wonders for true flatness, no wobble. I would not add a safety guard ... will only get in the way. but always try and hold small spinning parts with a vice grip if possible... too many safety nazis. I'm sure you have things under control. Also, I noticed you have the other end of the motor shaft idle, not in use. I rebuilt a Grinder and replaced one side with a (Motor Adapter Arbor 1/2-20 Threads Fits 1/2" Motor Shaft or Spindle) Look on eBay..$24 bucks. Make sure you get the correct right or left threading for this. Then I added a Drill chuck!!! Now I can use all sorts of adaptors for diamond, Wire brushes, and even 4.5 Hand grinding disks. And I can place a drill bit in it or even sharpen one. Works so well You should try it. In the US the Adapter Arbor is about $24 a chuck around 12-$14. The chuck may not be perfectly centered, but even then if you leave the grinder motor on its rubber legs this will compensate and center the chuck very well... I use this little junk motor all the time now. It is small enough I can stop the chuck by hand but it still has some power. In a shop like yours bench jewelry style, I can see this would come in very very handy. You won't regret the chuck adaptor. Sir.
Melamine works quite well as a backing disk. It is surprisingly flat. In fact I've seen quite a few people successfully lap parts using diamond paste on a bare melamine wheel! Seems to work just fine although I would be concerned about moisture. I tend to dip parts in water rather often while grinding
I see URI’s end game now …probably before he does …he is going to be the Clickspring of the northern hemisphere and compete for the crown of trinkets and beads in the TH-cam -iverse of small scale machined items of coolness!!
If you put some sort of friction discs between the sections of the support arm, the screw won't need to be as tight to get it to stay in position, so you may be able to use your thumbscrews.
Great to see the new video, some stop blocks for the drill press might make drilling have less blood being loss to drill stuff.... Be safe and hope to see more videos this year...
Благодарю! Все сделано отлично! Однако, прийдется доработать нижнее крепление, чтобы исключить проскальзывание между подвижной и неподвижной частями, осевого зажима недостаточно. Обычно, для таких целей, используют такую-же конструкцию как Вы использовали для установки горизонтальных углов заточки. Есть и другие варианты но они потребуют больше деталей, и в конечном итоге затруднят настройки вертикальных углов из-за люфтов в соединениях. Успехов Вам!
Pleeease invest in (or make) some clamps for your drill press. I could hear the echoes of my industrial art teacher scolding me every time you used it lol. Great video as always though, of course
I know this has been years ago, but a flex washer (some people call them compression washers or spring washers) behind the mounting nut would have fixed the wobble. Flex washers are the only way to go when using faceplates on grinders.
Uri. Please move the table up two centimeters up so the lock nut is rotating below the surface of the table. Hit a your knuckles on that spinning hex nut a couple of times, you'll see what I mean. Gotta love the the the jewellers style equipment you favor. Could you design a vertical broaching /file machine? An up and down motion file with a table to clean up inside and outside surfaces? 👍 😃
@@jasonsummit1885 Not sure what kind of grinder that is, but for a 6" grinder with 1/2" arbor, you can find these on Amazon for around $10, and maybe less per piece when you buy packs.
mount the back plate without the diamond blade, and then switch it on and flatten it like you would face the back plate on a lathe, using a cutter mounted on your slide
I regularly use WD40 on my diamond lapping plates, they cut better, last longer and it cleans the metal particles clear of the cutting surface, just a fine spray and hold a rag to stop the spray flying everywhere. You will get the drift. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.😁🇦🇺🦘
Diamond does not work well at higher speeds, like anything over about 500 rpm. Heat is generated, and diamonds will degrade/wear out quickly because of heat. CBN is better for dealing with heat, but you can only grind 'hardened' metals on it as softer ones will load up the wheel. Dan's comment below is accurate. Most of the time the nuts on grinders are not precision ground which can induce wobble because of uneven tightening. Some use 'helical' washers, one concave, the other convex, between the nut and the wheel.
Hey Uri, haven't you thought about doing a mechanical clock? You have the knowledge, as well as the tools! I'm pretty sure that it would look pretty great.
Grinding soft material as brass or aluminium on a diamond disk isn't such a good idea because the diamond will clog up. At least you should use some lubrication when grinding to prevent the material to stick at the diamond surface, even water would be better than nothing.
First thought: Sounds ALMOST too normal for a Uri video!
I also thought this
Expected him to make it resemble a can of beans or something.
He did end up making it a can of beans later that week.
It might not be the backplate causing the wobble. When you tighten the nut on the motor shaft it will not be exactly square to threading. This will result in the backplate not pressing evenly against the stop behind it. This is usually fixed by using self centering washers which are essentially two washers with opposing conical faces. These conical faces will slide against each other and compensate for the out of squareness of the nut.
Ya got that right Dan....TM
Parabéns muita saúde
I think the stop itself is not flush at all. Unfortunately I think he didn't flat the head on that first lathe cut. :-/
Less than a minute in and you have already just eyeballed the damned diamond wheel alignment.
Among engineer-artisan channels, you are one of a kind, Uri. Never change.
Like a Stefan Gotteswinter's long lost eccentric twin brother.
There’s something about adding brass to a build it adds class. It’s like the James Bond of all the materials.Anyway thanks for sharing I always enjoy your content
It is such a pleasure to watch a master at work. Your abilities and ideas are unmatched on TH-cam. Thank you Uri for sharing.
I love the fact you also show the trail and errors.
I´m a tinkerer myself and a lot of time is going into figuring things out.
Splendid! Although I think it really needs an engraved pigeon on it somewhere. ✌🏻🎨☕️
Surely, surely, it will have, somewhere? We just didn’t spot it, I expect…
Uri your skill and ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. What you do with your limited tools is very creative and inspiring. And I like your good spirits and sense of humour very much. What else can I say? Oh ... just keep your workpiece secured for Gods sake! And save your fingers and other bits! Thanks for sharing, best wishes on all your projects.
It is such a pleasure at watching you design and create your works of art. Your silly side is wonderful and your so creative. I’m very happy I ran across your channel I guess almost two years ago. Just love all your creations Uri. 👍👍👍
I love this channel and I appreciate everything you do. I understand and appreciate your processes and all the little quirks that I feel I have in common as an artist and creative myself. I love that you show your real self, the happy creative. I like to think I have a broad knowledge over many areas that allows me to think in a way that nurtures and drives my creativity. But you are on a whole other level. You encourage me to continue learning and teaching myself. Everything you do is so creative and I love the new Pigeon studio soundtrack 😊 it’s awesome. Love to you and your family from New Zealand 🇳🇿❤️
The brass nuts don't work because the lever arm of the tool post can act against the thread. Even using steel bolts will not fix this, I think. Designs similar to this that work use a pivot pin and then clamp the two mating faces together, but have an interlocking pattern on the mating faces so they cannot slip. Perhaps a hinge pin combined with a series of pin holes that set the arm at specific angles?
Your right, perhaps I'd make the middle piece again, with pin holes and such.
Using a knurled pattern like on a file on the mating surfaces should suffice
@@fasousa4798 exactly, that will give enough friction I think.
@@urituchmanpigeon I really enjoy your videos buddy. I cant wait to see what you make next. I'd love to see you do more of those figurines that you carve and that move.
@@urituchmanpigeon a friction disc would do the same, you could make a simple one out of Emery paper
BLOOD!...SCARS! ...My God The Man Suffers for his Art. Excellent as always. Keep on keeping on Uri
אלוף אתה. השראה. לפשטות . לתחכום. להבנה שאנחנו מוגבלים ושהדרך ארוכה. לשמחת היצירה. לשובבות.. להומור. למחשבה צלולה ובהירה. חזק וברוך אורי.
That was wonderful, but the drill press sections were pretty scary. Maybe some drill press clamps would be a good idea for a future project, perhaps with some brass.
Yeah. I puckered up a few times.
And less stopping the drill with his hands! 🙃
Let's start a petition! We want drill press clamps!!
It does look scary, but one can get pretty fast at pulling their hand away when the bit starts spinning the work peice, especially considering drill presses are set at lower speeds for metals.
You can see he used vise grips after, which is a very good way of holding small peices that would otherwise be too small to clamp to the work surface.
You only have to get whacked a few times and then you learn. Hopefully with all your fingers intact. I used to tack weld by closing my eyes in a hurry. Sandpaper eyeballs taught me to use the helmet even when lazy.
You are a very talented and also an extremely funny guy. Your videos are a joy to watch. Keep it up!
Uri, you need to look into the Harold Hall books for lathe and mill home made gadgets. Then you can embellish them with your characteristics. I think it would be a real benefit to you in your shop.
Custom brass knobs had me. Like FFS is he lathing them smooth BY HAND *subscribing
I love your enthusiasm ! Great result.
Uri Tuchman is the Bob Ross of the maker-world. Every episode is full of “oh my gahd I made a little mistake there. And there. And over here too”, but somehow each piece comes out looking amazing. Imagine how it would be oh he didn’t make any happy little accidents.
I don't really know why but I found your little video quite entertaining. Thank you for the show good sir!
I made a similar thing to you with a mount that took every grade of diamond disks for marble top finishing. Mine was for polishing and cutting Opals, I also made a water feed gravity fed with a tap.
Your videos are always a joy to watch. Your creativity is always inspiring.
There is a word in italian that describe you very well: pasticcione. I can't find the translation cause the meaning is not so negative as the english words, but even if you are a pasticcione, you are always dead precise, i can't understand how you manage to build perfectly functioning tools like this🤣 is always a pleasure to watch your videos
Uri, this turned out amazing!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
But one piece of advice? Breathe! You were on high speed through the whole video!!! You can catch your breathe now!!!
I like the way he is using simple hand tools.
Inspector Clouseau in his hobby shop. Well done mate.
Oh..my.. this is better than perving. I'm excited.
Using a chasing hammer to pound a center punch is the definition of Uri Tuchman
(not because it was wrong or bad, but because he can make that work =)
Ooh Uri Tuchman how I long to see
A video upload presented by the thee
I know for certain it warms my heart
Just watching you go about creating art
Uri, Check the shoulder on the bench grinder, sometimes they are not nicely machined. The slightest of burrs will throw that 7 or 8 inch diameter out quite a lot at full diameter. Your original backing plate may still be fine to use. Use a fine flat hand file and use the NON safe edge against the grinder spindle shoulder, rotate it by HAND to check for burrs. You may also find that the shoulder has a radius, so your backing disc will need a slight bevel to the hole to miss the radius. Good Luck fixing it. Regards from Australia.
to even the back plate i would put three spots of cusi with a tig welder and file them until the weel runs centered. you can also drill a larger hole into the disc and make a bronze bushing spacer and try to make the bushing more precise. if the disc is not flat you can sand that to be flat on a flat surface.
I've been planning to make a diamond grinding setup on my lathe. I was planning on making a plywood rest, but now you have me thinking I should step it up 🤔 great design
Success of a project is directly proportionate to the number of "oh my god" moments you have in making it. For good, bad, or scary.
Neat!
Don't worry about the guard..diamond doesn't cut & the wheels unlikely to explode!!
Re the flat lap..the grinder flanges might need truing to the grinder spindle (standard grinders aren't precision kit)!
Gotta be able to sharpen that carbide... Well done Uri. The wobble could also be in the washers, the shaft itself, or play in the grinder motor. Most bench grinders have some sort of play/run out. The more expensive ones have less. There are beveled washers you can buy for the mounting shaft then you his have to play with a pair of washers to get that perfect adjustment to true your grinding wheel, or in your case diamond plate. Bench grinders aren't really designed for face plates, but for edge wheels. But a true running shaft is a true running shaft. Good luck.
I have the same set up in my shop. I have 3 registration pins and have the disc mounted on a plate with magnets. Can go from course to very fine in seconds.
Love the build of the table and miter fence! You are a maestro at this kind of build!! 2 issues: first, use conical or cup and seat washers for the back plate and lapping disc as @Dan Letkeman says below. Once that is done you could use your miter fence to true the running face and edges of the back plate with sand paper and a square block. Second, most grinders run at 1750rpm which is way too fast for lapping disc and will wear them out quickly. If you can find an inline speed controller for the grinder to get the speed down to around 800-1000 it will help a lot. Typical lapping plate systems actually spin around 4-500rpm. Thanks for the fun build!!
Thanks for the video Uri, I'm inspired to turn the left hand end face plate sander on a wood lathe into diamond wheel. I suggest you make or buy vice for your drill press next !
There are special washers that take the wobble out, they are spherical, I believe? They come in sets of two and nest together and compensate for things being off.
You need to play the theme to jaws as you slowly pan towards the drill press
Uri, just a few things. If you want a concentric washer, turn it in the centers. Your chuck has a huge runout. Or replace a three jaw chuck with 4 jaw independent one and use an indicator while clamping. The speed of your grinder is way too fast for such a work. Use a variac to crank it down to about 300 rpm. You was the one inspired me to start learning engraving on diy tooling. I started after your video with a hammer and now I built all tools by myself including apex graver holder and a graver hone. I am not an artist like you, but I am mechanical engineer and have access to machines. If you have technical questions maybe I can answer it. Beretzinut!
The grinder uses an induction motor. A VFD would be needed for speed control, and even then speed controlling a single phase induction motor is sketchy at best.
@nerd1000ify variac or any fan controller rated for the same power will work.
@@slavayorish4836 Sorry, but the speed of induction motors is set by the line frequency not the supply voltage. Dropping the voltage reduces the torque not the speed.
I've been modding a small bench grinder like Uri's to do drill sharpening and other grinding work and I'm stuck with the motor's design speed (50Hz UK mains voltage x 60 seconds = 3000 rpm, just about -- there's a rotating magnetic "drag" that keeps the motor spinning so it's a little less than 3000 rpm). I could use a variable-frequency drive (VFD) to reduce the speed a bit by reducing the supply frequency but the motor windings are designed for 50Hz or thereabouts and the motor wouldn't work properly below 35Hz or so.
@Robert Sneddon Robert, i had a success controlling a blower with a variac because it had a relatively constant load on the shaft. In case of a grinder it will not work. You right. The solution I would suggest is to use either a sinchronous motor, or a DC motor. The popular choice is a DC motor and controller from an old threadmill. For my graverhone I used a teknik servomotor, but it was a waaay overkill.
Diamond at high speeds deposits carbon into the sharpened piece. This is mostly experienced in industry but I’ve heard of guys power grinding their knives with diamonds and it ruining them. The ideal abrasive material would be CBN or Cubic Boron Nitride, but if it’s any harder to get than diamonds then I wouldn’t worry.
Keeping things cool and or lubricated can cut down on that quite a bit.
You’re a natural toolmaker
Edit: I thunk you’d have fun with a 0.5-40 micron diamond paste pack. I got one from venev for like $12 and it makes polishing hard materials a breeze.
Put a piece of copy paper between metal surfaces to give much better grip and locking. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.😁🇦🇺🦘
I kind of lost touch after your son was born and you kind of took a break from video making.
Good to see you back. Seemingly a nice shop too. I think the last video I had seen was the live stream with your wife's friend acting as more or less host that then ended with the camera seemingly going mad on its own.
I like your mini lathe. I have a Shopsmith wood lathe that I enjoy using and an old Oliver small metal lathe from around 1900 that needs converted to V Belt and they certainly are enjoyable to utilize and it shall be interesting to see what you output with yours.
You're slinging some chips now buddy. Lol. I really enjoy watching you make stuff. The comedy is a plus lol. Hope you're doing well buddy. I bet you miss your cats walking around what you're working on lol.
Excelente tutorial Uri , como de costumbre , es un placer verte trabajar con las manos , cuidarlas mucho , gracias por compartir tanto ingenió y conocimientos , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón (Galicia)🤓 🔝
Super interesting video, but I have a question. Why didn't you set the support plate higher, i.e. above the axis? Then you would have the entire width of the grinding plate available, and it would certainly be less dangerous for your fingers
Very nice! But it almost seems too conventional for a Uri Tuchman project! Why isn't it shaped like a pigeon or pork chop or something? 😄
good progress... accuracy is a journey and not a destination... =D
Uri just going in with the fat chips definitely got me all puckered up
I'm glad to see you have a Taig lathe, they are flexible little machines that really lend themselves to shop made modifications too. Looking forward to seeing your projects progressing!
Yuri one thing when you are cutting with the saw CUT in the right side not in the left side because you can shock you hands at the table. In the right side tour hand go to the Air and can not shock your knockles good video yuri
Small projects like these are my favorites. If you get them right the first time it's so satisfying but if you need to remake them because they are to small or to big the "how to make" process and the "don't do thats" has already been done so all you have to do is scale up or down.
I have to admit I have copied some of the things Uri has made. 🤫🤫 love this channel.
What a brilliant idea and a great tool
Fantastic engineering, always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Excellent build friend, I'm sure there are things to update. A real backplate will do wonders for true flatness, no wobble.
I would not add a safety guard ... will only get in the way. but always try and hold small spinning parts with a vice grip if possible... too many safety nazis. I'm sure you have things under control.
Also, I noticed you have the other end of the motor shaft idle, not in use. I rebuilt a Grinder and replaced one side with a (Motor Adapter Arbor 1/2-20 Threads Fits 1/2" Motor Shaft or Spindle) Look on eBay..$24 bucks. Make sure you get the correct right or left threading for this. Then I added a Drill chuck!!! Now I can use all sorts of adaptors for diamond, Wire brushes, and even 4.5 Hand grinding disks. And I can place a drill bit in it or even sharpen one. Works so well You should try it. In the US the Adapter Arbor is about $24 a chuck around 12-$14. The chuck may not be perfectly centered, but even then if you leave the grinder motor on its rubber legs this will compensate and center the chuck very well... I use this little junk motor all the time now. It is small enough I can stop the chuck by hand but it still has some power. In a shop like yours bench jewelry style, I can see this would come in very very handy.
You won't regret the chuck adaptor. Sir.
Years after hanging out at truffle pig, I’m still here every week. God this is fun content!
Nicely done Uri... an enjoyable watch, than you
Melamine works quite well as a backing disk. It is surprisingly flat. In fact I've seen quite a few people successfully lap parts using diamond paste on a bare melamine wheel! Seems to work just fine although I would be concerned about moisture. I tend to dip parts in water rather often while grinding
it's nice to see tat you drop things as well as me
Speed control would be a great addition 👌 👍 👏 🙌 😀. God bless you and your family 👪 🙏 🤲... Lee
I see URI’s end game now …probably before he does …he is going to be the Clickspring of the northern hemisphere and compete for the crown of trinkets and beads in the TH-cam -iverse of small scale machined items of coolness!!
"Lovely Jubbly". someone has been watching OFAH!
If you put some sort of friction discs between the sections of the support arm, the screw won't need to be as tight to get it to stay in position, so you may be able to use your thumbscrews.
Great job, I loved the creativity
Great to see the new video, some stop blocks for the drill press might make drilling have less blood being loss to drill stuff.... Be safe and hope to see more videos this year...
Bravo! Also, you need a drill press hold down clamp.
hey Uri try a plastic backplate to suport the diamond disk, because you can true it up using a bit on the machine itself then glueing the disk
As always a very delicious video you've made 👌
yes quite splendid, indeed 🥸🕊
Благодарю! Все сделано отлично! Однако, прийдется доработать нижнее крепление, чтобы исключить проскальзывание между подвижной и неподвижной частями, осевого зажима недостаточно. Обычно, для таких целей, используют такую-же конструкцию как Вы использовали для установки горизонтальных углов заточки. Есть и другие варианты но они потребуют больше деталей, и в конечном итоге затруднят настройки вертикальных углов из-за люфтов в соединениях.
Успехов Вам!
Truly a joy to watch you work
Hi Uri, I assume you've already checked the axle for runout. It's a pretty common issue with these small bench grinders.
Pleeease invest in (or make) some clamps for your drill press. I could hear the echoes of my industrial art teacher scolding me every time you used it lol.
Great video as always though, of course
if you got different grit diamond wheels and a water drip, you could be shaping and polishing stones with that,
I love your commentary when you let something fall etc. 😅
Nice Job, Uri!
Bravo Uri
I know this has been years ago, but a flex washer (some people call them compression washers or spring washers) behind the mounting nut would have fixed the wobble. Flex washers are the only way to go when using faceplates on grinders.
What you need is some clamps lmao. Protects the fingers
Uri. Please move the table up two centimeters up so the lock nut is rotating below the surface of the table. Hit a your knuckles on that spinning hex nut a couple of times, you'll see what I mean. Gotta love the the the jewellers style equipment you favor. Could you design a vertical broaching /file machine? An up and down motion file with a table to clean up inside and outside surfaces? 👍 😃
Sharpening HSS on diamond . . . . I don't know what to say other than those diamond lapidary plates are pretty cheap. Nice build!
They're about $36 USD for one.
@@jasonsummit1885 Not sure what kind of grinder that is, but for a 6" grinder with 1/2" arbor, you can find these on Amazon for around $10, and maybe less per piece when you buy packs.
@@wmcrash I was looking at the ones made for faceting, as in sintered diamond instead of electroplated.
Now yes, friday! 🙌🏽👌🏽
Unnecessarily exquisite and oddly satisfying as ususal.
There he goes again: the god of brass!
Your videos breathe life into my soul! I'm glad you're doing well.
mount the back plate without the diamond blade, and then switch it on and flatten it like you would face the back plate on a lathe, using a cutter mounted on your slide
Supercut of just every time Uri says "Oh my god"
I regularly use WD40 on my diamond lapping plates, they cut better, last longer and it cleans the metal particles clear of the cutting surface, just a fine spray and hold a rag to stop the spray flying everywhere. You will get the drift. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.😁🇦🇺🦘
Keep the table closer to the disc to stop anything being dragged down into the gap…nice work…👍
this second zoom at 3:16 cracked me up as you were playing somehow with my expectation that it will spin again :D damn i love this editing
Always a pleasure.
Always a Pleasure 👍🏻
Next Project Idea: Vise for the drill press. :-P
Diamond does not work well at higher speeds, like anything over about 500 rpm. Heat is generated, and diamonds will degrade/wear out quickly because of heat. CBN is better for dealing with heat, but you can only grind 'hardened' metals on it as softer ones will load up the wheel. Dan's comment below is accurate. Most of the time the nuts on grinders are not precision ground which can induce wobble because of uneven tightening. Some use 'helical' washers, one concave, the other convex, between the nut and the wheel.
Nice work and good ideas.
Perhaps you should make a vice for your drill press.
Hey Uri, haven't you thought about doing a mechanical clock? You have the knowledge, as well as the tools! I'm pretty sure that it would look pretty great.
Great idea, well done.
I wish to become an artist of your caliber some day. Right now, I am just an artisan... Kinda.
Regards,
Etna.
Grinding soft material as brass or aluminium on a diamond disk isn't such a good idea because the diamond will clog up. At least you should use some lubrication when grinding to prevent the material to stick at the diamond surface, even water would be better than nothing.